Hey Friend! We have just published a whole 55 page book with plans of this mill and a guide on chainsaw milling, find it here: play.google.com/store/books/details?id=A15aEAAAQBAJ&rdid=book-A15aEAAAQBAJ&rdot=1&source=gbs_vpt_reviews&pcampaignid=books_booksearch_atb
I really appreciate you taking the time to educate people. You and People like you, make RUclips an incredible resource for information on how to do just about anything. I wish there was a way for me to pay you something. We call it "Tipping" in the US. You and many other people with RUclips channels provide a very valuable service for free to anyone with an Internet connection. If there was a way to voluntarily donate money to your channel I would. If everyone that has viewed this video as of 10-12-22 donated just $5.00 you would have close to a half million. Thanks for taking the time to help educate those of us who need it.
Good afternoon D Bacon! Thanks so much for making such an encouraging commen :) Not many people know but Sam an I actually have a ko-fi page so if people feel we earned it they can tip us a coffee. It's here - ko-fi.com/floweringelbow there's also a little shop with an ebook on Cs milling and some other stuff there. If you do want to support what we do, that's the place to go, and we appreciate it more than supporters know!
Been using chain saw mills for 45 years. Perfect tool for off the grid and in the woods milling. I used oxen to skid the beams out of the woods. Thanks for keeping practicality alive. Not everyone can afford a band saw. Not everyone wants to skid logs with heavy equipment.
Nice mill!! Winch is a bonus and auxillary fuel tank. Cut the saw's fuel line a put in a plastic tee, run fuel line from the tee to an external fuel container that is mounted to the mill. I use a fuel filter inside the fuel container as well.
Cool. Like the idea of an external fuel tank for really big logs. I'm using a gravity-drag instead of a winch these days - you can see that in a more recent milling vid. Peace, Bongo.
I was considering buying an Alaskan chainsaw Mill but after seeing your Extrusion I'm confident that I should be able to do it I do not have a shop I am going to tackle it anyway we were hit with a hurricane in Nova Scotia about a year ago and there is so much Dead Fall Down that I would be crazy not to try to get some sticks out of it that I could use to build a camp thank you so much for helping me and give me the confidence to build my own instead of buying one I really enjoyed watching your video keep yourself Sharp and your saw as well
I have watched a few of your videos and have really enjoyed them! I plan to make a mill very similar to yours soon! I do more "crafty" type woodworking, but I do have projects that being able to get a really great "straight flat" cut will drastically reduce my finishing time. I love the use of the aluminum! When I build mine, I plan to adhere "peel and stick" tape measures to the adjustment rails to help make for quicker thickness adjustments. Thanks for posting the videos!
Very nice! Lucky you to get the fallen oak, large logs, etc. I see your added lubrication setup, which I'll try to find in an earlier upload, I guess. Thank-you!
Greetings from a new subscriber from Germany. I mill with a Granberg 42" mill, 107cm 3/8 LP bar, narrow chain (picco) and a Dolmar 9000. I am facing similar problems as you: When in the radius of the tree with first two slabs, the mill will try to push upwards. Whenn on the last two slabs, is will get "stuck", as it pulls towards the tree increasing friction. Only satisfying solution I found so far: Use two boards on the face sides of the tree as you would for your ladder, but let them stick out to the side. Use a stiff plank between these boards, so the saw will pull itself against the board, and not rest against the tree. (if that makes sense). Thanks for your vids!
The Granberg Mill comes with 2 sturdy skid bars, one above and one below the bar. They work ok on smooth bark like beech or maple, but tend to dig into oak, especially when you are in the radius of the cut. Rollers could be an option...but only for lower half of the tree. Upper half, they will push the mill up too much...I will try a "disc" of Teflon around the vertical aluminium piece of the mill next, size of a can of coke.
cheers from the south of France. i'm a new fan of your channel. i have lots of oak and chestnut trees on my property. two chainsaws. i'd love to make a mill.
Hey William, thanks for joining... If you are building one like ours, just google 'flowering elbow chainsaw mill' and lots of info will pop up. There are even free plans, bill of materials etc. on the Instructables site. Cheers, Bongo.
A fair comparison between bar and chain performance of standard and narrow kerf cross-cut versus ripping chains on hardwoods and softwoods would be helpful for anyone considering purchasing or modifying gear to suit particular milling applications. Relevant finish standard off the mill and maintenance required
Hello great info I’ have some nice logs that I would like to mill I bring fresh logs in and I make wooden cowboy hats Sometimes dry a little to much to make hats so I thought about milling Your videos are great!!!
I agree with Thomas, NO SANDELS ! Work boots with steal toes would be what I would wear and Definitely a pair of leather chaps but otherwise good job buddy !! Great stuffs.
My suggestion is to use a milling chain. Stihl has a good one in 2 sizes. 3/8 and .404. Also on my Grandberg mill I use a pool noodle cut to length to slip over the round bar to lightly push on. The pool noodle cuts out the vibrations, comes in a variety of colours, is cheap, and already has a hole the right size in the middle.
Good day Lindsay, thanks for the tip on the pool noodle - I like that one, and bet others will find it useful! As for the ripping chain, that's a big subject, with lots of contradictory views. I blurted some of mine in this video: ruclips.net/video/a1XUBdvwjnE/видео.html
Reference your comment on rebuilding your chainsaw before upgrading, I've purchased (didn't trust my engineering skills) a 36" Alaskan as we have a number of alders and 3 huge Scots Pine recently felled ( 10 months) and I am intending milling them for general timber projects around the farm. If I said that 24 inch wide slabs was the maximum I was going to cut, possibly leaving the bigger pieces to a local mobile bandsaw mill to cut, which Stihl or Husqvarna would be optimum and therefore avoiding frequent engine rebuilds which I would have take to my supplier to fix. None of the big makes mention using them in chainsaw mills. Keep the vids coming, great inspiration. TIA.
Hi Lloyd thanks for the question. My general advice is always go as big as you can possibly afford. A bigger bar and chainsaw is only really an advantage as you can angle the cut more which gives better finish and quicker cuts. A bigger bar than you absolutely need means less sharpening time , less strain on the engine, etc etc. If you are running an 'only just coping' saw, don't push it - literally - make sure the chain is sharp enough to pull the mill along with very light pressure. And consider installing a digital temp. read out/alarm so u don't overheat the cylinder ... that or get good at making stove fans like I did ;)
6:52 I've found that a square-profile wheel works better than the rollerblade style. I found some inexpensive ones online advertised for luggage. They don't follow the bark as much.
Excellent videos, thank you for all that you share and teach. I was looking for your video on how you setup the auxiliary Oiler, and when is it necessary to use? Thank you for your time.
Good day Alhrt7, thanks for getting in touch. I'm super glad it was interesting. I must admit I use my Aux oiler much less than I used to. Unless I am cutting vert hard dry wood, it's just another thing to fiddle about with. If the chain is sharp and the wood green, I am happy to go the full 4ft bar width and slab without... That said the ms880 can really pump out the oil (I set it to max). The other time I use the aux oiler is if the weather is very hot. Then more of the bar oil get flung off the nose of the bar as the chain spins round because it's less viscous and sticky when hot... I don't actually have a vid specifically about the Aux oiler. Though I may talk about it more in the next one i do (about milling, charring, and rocking in oak gate posts)... Hope that helps, peace n love, Bongo.
FloweringElbow Good day to you FloweringElbow, thank you that definitely helps. I’m purchasing an ms661 to go with my 36” Alaskan Mill and had to wait on order of a 36” bar to go with it. It will be my 1st time milling and I am looking forward to it. The tips and tricks you have shown in your milling videos are really going to save me on my learning curve, but only the experience of saw milling will truly give me an idea of what it takes. I will let you know how my first time goes if you are interested. Thank you for your quick and timely response.
Hi there Brandon, thanks for watching. I may do something about this in the future. I can answer any specific questions you have, or there's a whole section in our book on the subject: ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8 Thanks again, Bongo.
Hi David, thanks for the encouragement. I do keep meaning to make that video, as I thought it would be quite useful for people. Funnily enough, I think yours is the only request for it though ;) At some point I'll have to. Peace, Bongo.
I want to build my own alaskan sawmill. I am concerned about connecting the mill to the bar of the chainsaw. Your design seems to just drill through the bar at the base, and then through the sprocket bearing at the tip. Is this correct? What is the diameter of the hole?
I've noticed those "noodly" shavings a few times while free-cutting benches, et cetera. If we take that as a sign of super-efficient cutting (because the chain is moving perfectly parallel to the grain), shouldn't we try to angle a chainsaw as much as possible while milling? Here's what I mean: I remember you mentioning that you keep your bar angle at around 45°. If a noodly rip cut is 0°, and a straight cross cut is 90°, shouldn't the saw be held back as much as possible for efficiency? Like closer to 30°, if you have the bar length? Another great video. Thanks!
Yep. The more angle you can get, the less dusty the saw 'dust' and the smoother things go... having said that I have had the shavings so stringy that the keep blocking the ejection port on the saw. That's unusual though...
Hello, Great Vids! In reference to the bolt digging into the bark, I drilled a 3/4" PVC pipe cabin the center and bolt it on. It has been working well so fare. In reference to Half rounds, I use them for the sides of shelf units. Stay Dusty Bro.
Was the bolt hole on the far end of the interfering with the bar sprocket? Or did you drill through the center of the sprocket and use the bolt as a spindle?
Hi Nick. It doesn't interfere no. It goes through the centre. More details in our book "How to make a chainsaw mill and how to use it" : ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8
Well done. I've been having problems with exhaust while milling on non-windy days (and log on the ground). I'm thinking of adding a plate to direct the exhaust further passed my face. Haven't seen anyone address this problem as of yet.
Great idea. I have seen people make exhaust pipe style extensions from the muffler in order to redirect the fumes. I would definitely consider it if I hadn't found the face mask/ dust and vapour filter I now use. If you do make one please share, I bet people here would be interested to see it:)😀
You are making useful and entertaining films, thanks for that and fy on google/youtube for clearly not promoting your films enough, they are stupid letting AI's decide what should be watched. All the best from Norway. PS what is your accent... Bristol....Gloucestershire? I grew up in Worcestershire....
Hi Lucas. Thanks so much for the encouragement - makes a big difference. My accent is part Welsh part West Country... grew up in Wales with lots of English friends..
Hi there. Your videos are brilliant and very inspirational. I’m bitten! Would love to make one of your milling frames. I’m struggling to see how the bolts that go through the guide bar at each end are secured into the end of the 40x40 aluminium section. A close up piccy or advice would be very gratefully received please. Hope you don’t mind me asking as I sure you’ve got more important things to do!! Thanks very much. Andrew
Hey Andrew. Thanks for getting in touch :) The guide bar attachment is simple! It's a bolt that goes through the GB into an M8 tapped hole in the centre of the extrusion. For details and a discussion of why this method of mill attachment is way better than the clamp on methods other mills use see 'step 7' of my guide: www.instructables.com/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/#step7 Any other Q's just ask. Bongo.
Good morning Enrique. Thank you for your comment. If you follow the link to the instructable in the description of this video, it has all that kind of info, including links to supplies. Hope that helps you. Any further questions, just ask...
very cool, I was going to buy the Alaskan CSM but on second look I might take after you here and make my own. love the mods. any chance you've got the original construction on video? new sub, all likes
Hi Peke's Repose, haven't got the original construction on vid, but have you checked out the plans & build guide on Instructables? There is a link in the description above...
FloweringElbow oops nope I missed the link. I'll dig into it thanks! I have a tip on the custom bar oiler. if you place the point at which it drips onto the chain closer to the drive sprocket, I'd theorize it to be more beneficial. possibly putting less oil at the cut and more where it rides around the drive gear. I don't know how much it'd effect the cut but we all know cutting wet wood isn't favorable. maybe even an adjustable drip valve to control the flow of different bar oils used when needed.
Hi there. Not this bar no. I have another that is also drilled that is a sprocket nose. The 8mm hole goes right in the middle of the rivet pattern / the bearing centre. You will want a carbide drill bit to make the hole...Hope that helps :)
Hi Stuart, I use whatever masonry or remotely appropriate looking paint is going free at the local skip. Slap it on thick and do a few coats :) Has worked for me over the years.
Good question - No! The bolt goes right through the centre, 8mm high tensile bolt is fine. It does cause pinching if u use the clamp type system, not bolt through. Therefore you can get much more actual cutting bar length with bolt through - just one of the reasons bolt through is better than the clamp on type.
Hi there. I finely purchased a bigger saw. Husqvarna 3120xp and I don't like how the Alaskan Mill clamps to the bar eaither. My Q is how large is the sprocket inside the bar and where would be the best place to drill? Am I going to need a drill press or can I use a drill with a good bit? Hate drill a new bar.
Hi Richard. So it depends on the bar. With my sprocket nose Stihl one, I was able to drill right in the centre of the circle made by the rivets holding the sprocket on (8mm hole should do). Use a drill press if you have one, and a carbide bit is best. Drilling guidebars with HSS and regular cutting fluid never worked for me, but carbide eats through with ease. I know what you mean about drilling a new bar - but it is soooo much better than the clamp method. It's also easier to cut through logs that get slightly to big - See my oversized milling video for more on that... Hope that helps, let me know how it goes, Bongo.
The clamp definitely restricts you especially if you want to go at an angle. So on the sprocket there isn't a bearing in a center that it turned on? Again I know all manufacturers have different styles butt just curious
@@richardlittlepage9069 I can only speak for the Stihl bar I drilled. The hole I made in the centre was through solid steel and worked a treat. You can see pics of it on the Instructable I published some years ago. (step 7 here : www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/ )
Do you think this would work with 1” square aluminum? The 1.5” is double the price. I have a Stihl MS 881 and 72” bar. I assume I could add more cross-supports to make up for the reduced size. What are your thoughts ?
@@FloweringElbow thanks! Which fastener did you use to get the bar attached to the end of the extruded aluminum section? Did you have to drill those holes in your bar?
@@bikenasty7322 all this and much more answered in the book we wrote on Cs milling ;) ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8 Use a 8mm or equivalent hight tensile (10.9 minimum) bolts to go through the nose and powerhead side of the bar. Remember to locktite all bolts or they are likely to vibrate loose. Lots of advice about drilling the bar in the book... any specific Qs just ask :)
Hi Meyer. It's a really interesting idea. It is obvious be possible, but whether it would be worth the effort... Steel is so easy and cheap to joint strongly with welds, in comparison. There is a lot of frame strength needed to properly tension a big band mill blade. But a light transportable alu mill would certainly be interesting... You thinking about making one?
FloweringElbow I am because of the large versatility, lightweight design, and potential for transporting in the bed of a truck or small trailer. What has been your favorite wood you’ve milled with this set up?
@@nathanmeyer9676 I would be really interested in seeing this, and would happily give you my thoughts on any designs you might be toying with... In terms of favourite woods I've milled: Oak or Ash I think. Fresh ash is wonderful and the flat but ever so slightly furry texture you can get cs milling is really unique, it's bark stays nicely bonded if you dry it away from the elements, which adds up to very special slabs for furniture making. I like making one face planed and polished absolutely flat and leaving one furry - it's a nice tactile contrast... And Oak... well, Oak just smells amazing when you cut it ;)
hi, try using a 3/8 picco ripping chain and a GB 1.3mm 3/8 picco chain bar. (its 6.2 mm vs. 8.2mm wide) its speeds up the milling process by a factor of three.
Hi salmon, thanks for the comment. I have seen that and I have always been quite resistant to the idea because I feel that if the slab is set up nicely on a slope and you have a sharp chain, then the mill essentially pulls itself into the cut.. If you have to start pushing with mu h force you know the chain is dull.
Hi Bongo, I have started to build my own mill. Unfortunately I can't find the connectors you use for connecting the long rails (A) with the inner bracing (B) any tips on where to find them?
Hey Jack. Thanks for the question - I see my guide is a bit vague in this regard, and I will need to clarify when I get time. You can get the expensive fasteners for this, but all you really need is an M8 "button flange head allen bolt" - something like this: bit.ly/bolt_hex
@@FloweringElbow Thanks for the speedy reply, its the little winged tabs that those bolts thread into that the extrusion then slides onto that I am after. I have all the bolts just cant find thos little tabs anywhere.
@@jackbrehony1 I see the ones you mean I think, and it was a long time ago: that they were these Standard Connector Element here: www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/Std-Connector-Element.html but you will need to check they fit your sized extrusion...
Would an MS 660 be sufficient for this setup using the 36" bar? or im I going to be having troubles with the engine stress? is the extra $800 worth it for the 880?
I haven't ever had a problem with ants... but in terms of woodworm, keeping them dry helps and stripping the bark off and pressure washing or cleaning some other way... are you storing inside, under cover?
Hi Matt, I wont be making that video sorry. But there's loads more information / diagrams etc here: www.instructables.com/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/
Great video thankyou. Ive just purchased a 2nd hand Stihl 660 with intention of getting a new 36" bar. Its got the replaceable rim drive sprocket so heres my chance to go for the better choice. ⅜" (currently fitted on 30" crosscut bar) or .404. Wood being milled is fresh cut green oak, beech and cherry. Much time on youtube has led me to believe that full chisel 10° grind is best, with every other pair of teeth ground to scoring teeth (AKA Lowpro) and clearing teeth. I have access to a Granburg mill attachment so all that side of it is sorted. Bar and chain is my only concern thankyou.
@@Igotknobblies yes to bark removal depending on how dirty the log and final use. If im undecided I'll often remove the opposite side (so the grit doesn't pulled through the cut). But bark on inboard side gets pushed off from the clean inner face during cutting, so less blunting (that's my theory anyway 😉) Personally I'd go .404, it takes a bigger bite (depth guages lower) so it's faster all other things being equal... Good luck 😀
I have been looking at constructing a mill off your design using the extruded parts. They make a set of bearing surfaces that would constrain the whole mill during cutting and reduce the need to control the slight up/down movement of the powerhead and would double as brilliant 1st cut assembly guide. You would use the guide each cut.....but I tend to way overthink most things www.8020.net has a wide knowledge base of all of the varients
Hey Bruce. Yep, I agree, you could totally make your edge guide from extrusion and add a jointing bearing surface in to constrain it more. I do think it might be more hassle/cost than it's worth unless you don't all ready have a ladder or similar you can use as the guide?
@@FloweringElbow I have seen copies of the Granberg ez rail system coming from China that are very cheap and quite tempting to purchase. I must admit that just starting out I am wondering if coming up with a viable way to get the logs up to a better working height might add years to my life if not my 61yo back. As a wood turner I can't seem to pass up the chance to harvest a nice crotch featured piece of wood and by natural extension the giddy feeling when I first see what is inside the 1st slab when my sawyer had made a cut. BTW have you ever qtr sawn any of the massive oaks? Inefficient but magnificent results and bring a much higher price at market for furniture makers. I look forward to your future videos be well my new friend
It does seem to be smother, and quicker, but has more of a tendency to bog down the saw as the stringy bits can block up the sawdust exhaust rout... So I'm not sure in sum. It is cool thought!
Do you use a hard nose bar or sproket nose? I noticed how you have your mill attached on the front an was wondering. Love the milling videos, keep them coming!
Thanks Clint. I use a hard nose bar... I would probably rather have a sprocket, but hard nose is what came with the saw. I have used a sprocket nose In the past and you can drill the bar right in the middle of the sprocket attachment. Requires a carbide drill bit to get through though...
Would you be willing to post some measurements I'm actually looking into making one of these and I work at a scrap yard your exclusion looks like one in or is it two in we get it in all the time I'd love to know the measurements of your saw you know you're you're set up so I can make my own please
Maybe if you were to put some hooks on it not only would you be able to maintain the cut in the hard to reach places leaving the hand free to aid the jig through the wider cuts but it acts as a guard as well, you could also grind the hooks back to suit
My only comment is SAFETY GEAR???????? You often work alone, and you're thoughtful, but experienced loggers have cut arteries that can be the end of your life. Sorry to be a wet blanket. The extruded aluminum and guards are great.
Thomas Tieffenbacher/DocSavage45 on my mill the chain is trapped within the mill at two spots. If it derails, it likely ruins the chain, but it would have to break in order to leave the general bar area. All that said, and I still wear chaps, helmet, eye pro, ear pro, and gloves. One mistake with a 90cc saw, and my son doesn’t have a daddy.
Why would you cut off the tips off your log dogs? I know you needed more space to open up the mill but why not just get out your metric wrenches and remove them for later. Better yet put them on ebay and buy yourself a 30 pack of beer with the extra cash. Sorry, some constructive criticism would be try ripping chain. The chip will be different but the cuts will be smoother and the saw will like it better too.
Hi BwrightAway, I know what you mean. It's all the extra costs of a handsaw that add up though - storage space, infrastructure to move logs to the saw, etc etc... OK If you are already stup with a nice space and tractor though...
![How to Sharpen a Chainsaw with Elegant Efficiency [smoother & straighter cuts]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/a1XUBdvwjnE/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Sharpen a Chainsaw with Elegant Efficiency [smoother & straighter cuts]](/img/tr.png)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Friend! We have just published a whole 55 page book with plans of this mill and a guide on chainsaw milling, find it here: play.google.com/store/books/details?id=A15aEAAAQBAJ&rdid=book-A15aEAAAQBAJ&rdot=1&source=gbs_vpt_reviews&pcampaignid=books_booksearch_atb
I really appreciate you taking the time to educate people. You and People like you, make RUclips an incredible resource for information on how to do just about anything.
I wish there was a way for me to pay you something. We call it "Tipping" in the US.
You and many other people with RUclips channels provide a very valuable service for free to anyone with an Internet connection.
If there was a way to voluntarily donate money to your channel I would.
If everyone that has viewed this video as of 10-12-22 donated just $5.00 you would have close to a half million.
Thanks for taking the time to help educate those of us who need it.
Good afternoon D Bacon! Thanks so much for making such an encouraging commen :)
Not many people know but Sam an I actually have a ko-fi page so if people feel we earned it they can tip us a coffee. It's here - ko-fi.com/floweringelbow there's also a little shop with an ebook on Cs milling and some other stuff there. If you do want to support what we do, that's the place to go, and we appreciate it more than supporters know!
Been using chain saw mills for 45 years. Perfect tool for off the grid and in the woods milling. I used oxen to skid the beams out of the woods. Thanks for keeping practicality alive. Not everyone can afford a band saw. Not everyone wants to skid logs with heavy equipment.
Hi singingfalls, thanks for this, agree with you on the band saw... peace, Bongo.
I just wanted to say "Hello". I like very much to watch your videos. Thank you for your patience
I love your setup. I was shopping for a granberg but decided to make my own copy of yours due to the easy chain removal. I got a few changes in mind.
Hey Brian. Great to hear from you and I'd be really interested in any tweaks you make to the mill... Good luck with it all 😀
Never seen a lazy seated cut befor bravo
Hello. Here Lola from Argentina. I'm so happy I found your chanel!!!! You explain si well!!!!👏👏👏
Nice mill!! Winch is a bonus and auxillary fuel tank. Cut the saw's fuel line a put in a plastic tee, run fuel line from the tee to an external fuel container that is mounted to the mill. I use a fuel filter inside the fuel container as well.
Cool. Like the idea of an external fuel tank for really big logs. I'm using a gravity-drag instead of a winch these days - you can see that in a more recent milling vid. Peace, Bongo.
Another thing I need to add to my mill is a pump build to prime with on cold starts.
I was considering buying an Alaskan chainsaw Mill but after seeing your Extrusion I'm confident that I should be able to do it I do not have a shop I am going to tackle it anyway we were hit with a hurricane in Nova Scotia about a year ago and there is so much Dead Fall Down that I would be crazy not to try to get some sticks out of it that I could use to build a camp thank you so much for helping me and give me the confidence to build my own instead of buying one I really enjoyed watching your video keep yourself Sharp and your saw as well
Hey Tom, appreciate that, thanks for watching. Good luck with it!
I have watched a few of your videos and have really enjoyed them! I plan to make a mill very similar to yours soon! I do more "crafty" type woodworking, but I do have projects that being able to get a really great "straight flat" cut will drastically reduce my finishing time. I love the use of the aluminum!
When I build mine, I plan to adhere "peel and stick" tape measures to the adjustment rails to help make for quicker thickness adjustments.
Thanks for posting the videos!
The tape measures would be a nice touch! Let me know how it goes. B.
Very nice! Lucky you to get the fallen oak, large logs, etc.
I see your added lubrication setup, which I'll try to find in an earlier upload, I guess. Thank-you!
Greetings from a new subscriber from Germany. I mill with a Granberg 42" mill, 107cm 3/8 LP bar, narrow chain (picco) and a Dolmar 9000. I am facing similar problems as you: When in the radius of the tree with first two slabs, the mill will try to push upwards. Whenn on the last two slabs, is will get "stuck", as it pulls towards the tree increasing friction. Only satisfying solution I found so far: Use two boards on the face sides of the tree as you would for your ladder, but let them stick out to the side. Use a stiff plank between these boards, so the saw will pull itself against the board, and not rest against the tree. (if that makes sense). Thanks for your vids!
That's a reasonable solution. Are you using a skid or a roller wheel against the tree?
Thanks for the sub, and welcome aboard! 😀
The Granberg Mill comes with 2 sturdy skid bars, one above and one below the bar. They work ok on smooth bark like beech or maple, but tend to dig into oak, especially when you are in the radius of the cut. Rollers could be an option...but only for lower half of the tree. Upper half, they will push the mill up too much...I will try a "disc" of Teflon around the vertical aluminium piece of the mill next, size of a can of coke.
Sounds good. Let us know how it goes!
Ahhh that's a good idea!
cheers from the south of France. i'm a new fan of your channel. i have lots of oak and chestnut trees on my property. two chainsaws. i'd love to make a mill.
Hey William, thanks for joining... If you are building one like ours, just google 'flowering elbow chainsaw mill' and lots of info will pop up. There are even free plans, bill of materials etc. on the Instructables site. Cheers, Bongo.
@@FloweringElbow many thanks for the message. and back to the videos :-)
A winch! you can order a winch from amazon for 22-24 $. attaching it is easy and you can see how its done by other on youtube. Makes a big difference!
A fair comparison between bar and chain performance of standard and narrow kerf cross-cut versus ripping chains on hardwoods and softwoods would be helpful for anyone considering purchasing or modifying gear to suit particular milling applications. Relevant finish standard off the mill and maintenance required
Looks like a great mill.
Hello great info
I’ have some nice logs that I would like to mill
I bring fresh logs in and I make wooden cowboy hats
Sometimes dry a little to much to make hats so I thought about milling
Your videos are great!!!
I agree with Thomas, NO SANDELS ! Work boots with steal toes would be what I would wear and Definitely a pair of leather chaps
but otherwise good job buddy !!
Great stuffs.
Thank You for your informative video and suggested improvements
Learn a lot from your videos so far. Thanks for posting.
Hello from central Texas!👍
Hi from Wales :)
My suggestion is to use a milling chain. Stihl has a good one in 2 sizes. 3/8 and .404. Also on my Grandberg mill I use a pool noodle cut to length to slip over the round bar to lightly push on. The pool noodle cuts out the vibrations, comes in a variety of colours, is cheap, and already has a hole the right size in the middle.
Good day Lindsay, thanks for the tip on the pool noodle - I like that one, and bet others will find it useful! As for the ripping chain, that's a big subject, with lots of contradictory views. I blurted some of mine in this video: ruclips.net/video/a1XUBdvwjnE/видео.html
"Noodlee" bloody brilliant!
Great ideas thank you
Ha! Have to admit, I've cut firewood in swim shorts and flip flops too.
Reference your comment on rebuilding your chainsaw before upgrading, I've purchased (didn't trust my engineering skills) a 36" Alaskan as we have a number of alders and 3 huge Scots Pine recently felled ( 10 months) and I am intending milling them for general timber projects around the farm. If I said that 24 inch wide slabs was the maximum I was going to cut, possibly leaving the bigger pieces to a local mobile bandsaw mill to cut, which Stihl or Husqvarna would be optimum and therefore avoiding frequent engine rebuilds which I would have take to my supplier to fix. None of the big makes mention using them in chainsaw mills. Keep the vids coming, great inspiration. TIA.
Hi Lloyd thanks for the question. My general advice is always go as big as you can possibly afford. A bigger bar and chainsaw is only really an advantage as you can angle the cut more which gives better finish and quicker cuts. A bigger bar than you absolutely need means less sharpening time , less strain on the engine, etc etc.
If you are running an 'only just coping' saw, don't push it - literally - make sure the chain is sharp enough to pull the mill along with very light pressure. And consider installing a digital temp. read out/alarm so u don't overheat the cylinder ... that or get good at making stove fans like I did ;)
6:52 I've found that a square-profile wheel works better than the rollerblade style. I found some inexpensive ones online advertised for luggage. They don't follow the bark as much.
Nice tip, thanks left...
Bro, ur new subscriber here from Nagaland india👍
Welcome aboard 😀
Excellent videos, thank you for all that you share and teach. I was looking for your video on how you setup the auxiliary Oiler, and when is it necessary to use? Thank you for your time.
Good day Alhrt7, thanks for getting in touch. I'm super glad it was interesting. I must admit I use my Aux oiler much less than I used to. Unless I am cutting vert hard dry wood, it's just another thing to fiddle about with. If the chain is sharp and the wood green, I am happy to go the full 4ft bar width and slab without... That said the ms880 can really pump out the oil (I set it to max). The other time I use the aux oiler is if the weather is very hot. Then more of the bar oil get flung off the nose of the bar as the chain spins round because it's less viscous and sticky when hot...
I don't actually have a vid specifically about the Aux oiler. Though I may talk about it more in the next one i do (about milling, charring, and rocking in oak gate posts)...
Hope that helps, peace n love,
Bongo.
FloweringElbow
Good day to you FloweringElbow, thank you that definitely helps. I’m purchasing an ms661 to go with my 36” Alaskan Mill and had to wait on order of a 36” bar to go with it. It will be my 1st time milling and I am looking forward to it. The tips and tricks you have shown in your milling videos are really going to save me on my learning curve, but only the experience of saw milling will truly give me an idea of what it takes. I will let you know how my first time goes if you are interested. Thank you for your quick and timely response.
Old video and hoping this comment doesn’t go unnoticed. Can you do a video on drilling and attaching the bar to the mill?
Hi there Brandon, thanks for watching. I may do something about this in the future. I can answer any specific questions you have, or there's a whole section in our book on the subject: ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8
Thanks again, Bongo.
Nice video again! Can you build one from 0 to the end? This would be nice to see. Tnx!
Hi David, thanks for the encouragement. I do keep meaning to make that video, as I thought it would be quite useful for people. Funnily enough, I think yours is the only request for it though ;) At some point I'll have to. Peace, Bongo.
@@FloweringElbow I would love to see video like this from you. I hope you will make it one day. 😉
I want to build my own alaskan sawmill. I am concerned about connecting the mill to the bar of the chainsaw. Your design seems to just drill through the bar at the base, and then through the sprocket bearing at the tip. Is this correct? What is the diameter of the hole?
Hi Peter, thanks for watching. Correct, yes - it's an 8mm hole.
I've noticed those "noodly" shavings a few times while free-cutting benches, et cetera. If we take that as a sign of super-efficient cutting (because the chain is moving perfectly parallel to the grain), shouldn't we try to angle a chainsaw as much as possible while milling? Here's what I mean: I remember you mentioning that you keep your bar angle at around 45°. If a noodly rip cut is 0°, and a straight cross cut is 90°, shouldn't the saw be held back as much as possible for efficiency? Like closer to 30°, if you have the bar length?
Another great video. Thanks!
Yep. The more angle you can get, the less dusty the saw 'dust' and the smoother things go... having said that I have had the shavings so stringy that the keep blocking the ejection port on the saw. That's unusual though...
Hello,
Great Vids! In reference to the bolt digging into the bark, I drilled a 3/4" PVC pipe cabin the center and bolt it on. It has been working well so fare. In reference to Half rounds, I use them for the sides of shelf units. Stay Dusty Bro.
Good evening Jeff. Nice tips, thanks :D
love'n the English steel caps, Good on the Lung, eye's and Hearing, but....
Great video and wonderful idea for Alaskan sawmill.
Have you been able to make it adjustable between cuts?
Keep up the great work.
Yep just take a look at some of my other videos to see the adjusting..
Awesome video I enjoy it thanks for sharing.
Could you show the fasteners used in the two vertical pieces for depth adjustment?
Awesome videos!! Thanks for posting them!
Thanks for watching 😀
Was the bolt hole on the far end of the interfering with the bar sprocket? Or did you drill through the center of the sprocket and use the bolt as a spindle?
Hi Nick. It doesn't interfere no. It goes through the centre. More details in our book "How to make a chainsaw mill and how to use it" : ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8
Well done. I've been having problems with exhaust while milling on non-windy days (and log on the ground). I'm thinking of adding a plate to direct the exhaust further passed my face. Haven't seen anyone address this problem as of yet.
Great idea. I have seen people make exhaust pipe style extensions from the muffler in order to redirect the fumes. I would definitely consider it if I hadn't found the face mask/ dust and vapour filter I now use. If you do make one please share, I bet people here would be interested to see it:)😀
Hey Green Achers. Just wondering if you did anything with this?
@@FloweringElbow Not yet. As soon as I get back into it, I plan to install some shielding that stops the direct pathway from exhaust to my face.
@@Fun4GA keep me updated ;)
Amazing job 👍
This is cool as well
love your mill
You are making useful and entertaining films, thanks for that and fy on google/youtube for clearly not promoting your films enough, they are stupid letting AI's decide what should be watched. All the best from Norway. PS what is your accent... Bristol....Gloucestershire? I grew up in Worcestershire....
Hi Lucas. Thanks so much for the encouragement - makes a big difference. My accent is part Welsh part West Country... grew up in Wales with lots of English friends..
Nice job!
Thanks!
I'd like to see you build a step-by-step Sawmill with measurements for each piece
Hey Carl, Thanks for watching! It's been on my long term to-do list for a few years! One of these days... Thanks again, Bongo.
Hello. Very nice mods.
Question: How did you manage to drill a hole on the far end of the bar? (time 3:37) Didn't this damage the sprocket?
It works well and has a bunch of advantages... Sorry for the late reply.
Hi there. Your videos are brilliant and very inspirational. I’m bitten! Would love to make one of your milling frames. I’m struggling to see how the bolts that go through the guide bar at each end are secured into the end of the 40x40 aluminium section. A close up piccy or advice would be very gratefully received please. Hope you don’t mind me asking as I sure you’ve got more important things to do!! Thanks very much. Andrew
Hey Andrew. Thanks for getting in touch :)
The guide bar attachment is simple! It's a bolt that goes through the GB into an M8 tapped hole in the centre of the extrusion.
For details and a discussion of why this method of mill attachment is way better than the clamp on methods other mills use see 'step 7' of my guide: www.instructables.com/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/#step7
Any other Q's just ask. Bongo.
'Hello'
Thanks for the helping.
Exellent job, i woud like to know were do you bought the aluminum material and parts please!
Good morning Enrique. Thank you for your comment. If you follow the link to the instructable in the description of this video, it has all that kind of info, including links to supplies. Hope that helps you. Any further questions, just ask...
Thank you for the information, i'm going to check it!!!
Well done carry on
very cool, I was going to buy the Alaskan CSM but on second look I might take after you here and make my own. love the mods. any chance you've got the original construction on video? new sub, all likes
Hi Peke's Repose, haven't got the original construction on vid, but have you checked out the plans & build guide on Instructables? There is a link in the description above...
FloweringElbow oops nope I missed the link. I'll dig into it thanks! I have a tip on the custom bar oiler. if you place the point at which it drips onto the chain closer to the drive sprocket, I'd theorize it to be more beneficial. possibly putting less oil at the cut and more where it rides around the drive gear. I don't know how much it'd effect the cut but we all know cutting wet wood isn't favorable. maybe even an adjustable drip valve to control the flow of different bar oils used when needed.
Where did you drill the hole at the end of the bar? Was it through the middle of the sprocket?
Yes - that position works for stihl GBs. A carbide bit makes it easy.
@@FloweringElbow Thanks for the quick answer. i am running an Echo, so same principle?
Is your bar equipped with a rolling sprocket? If so, how did you locate the hole for the bolt?
Hi there. Not this bar no. I have another that is also drilled that is a sprocket nose. The 8mm hole goes right in the middle of the rivet pattern / the bearing centre. You will want a carbide drill bit to make the hole...Hope that helps :)
Hi what do you use to seal the end grain. Great video by the way
Hi Stuart, I use whatever masonry or remotely appropriate looking paint is going free at the local skip. Slap it on thick and do a few coats :) Has worked for me over the years.
Hello- Good job
Thanks Rodney!
Hi, what chainsaw is that and what size bar do you have? Thanks in advance.
Good evening Silver back, it's an ms880 and a 4ft bar running .404 chain. Hope that helps.
@@FloweringElbow Thanks very much, great video!
Does the bolt at the tip cause a pinching upon the inner sproket thus causing a soow down and more heat?
Good question - No! The bolt goes right through the centre, 8mm high tensile bolt is fine. It does cause pinching if u use the clamp type system, not bolt through. Therefore you can get much more actual cutting bar length with bolt through - just one of the reasons bolt through is better than the clamp on type.
Hi thanks for you been you love your details
Hi there. I finely purchased a bigger saw. Husqvarna 3120xp and I don't like how the Alaskan Mill clamps to the bar eaither. My Q is how large is the sprocket inside the bar and where would be the best place to drill? Am I going to need a drill press or can I use a drill with a good bit? Hate drill a new bar.
I would show pictures but idk if I can
Hi Richard. So it depends on the bar. With my sprocket nose Stihl one, I was able to drill right in the centre of the circle made by the rivets holding the sprocket on (8mm hole should do). Use a drill press if you have one, and a carbide bit is best. Drilling guidebars with HSS and regular cutting fluid never worked for me, but carbide eats through with ease.
I know what you mean about drilling a new bar - but it is soooo much better than the clamp method. It's also easier to cut through logs that get slightly to big - See my oversized milling video for more on that...
Hope that helps, let me know how it goes, Bongo.
The clamp definitely restricts you especially if you want to go at an angle. So on the sprocket there isn't a bearing in a center that it turned on? Again I know all manufacturers have different styles butt just curious
@@richardlittlepage9069 I can only speak for the Stihl bar I drilled. The hole I made in the centre was through solid steel and worked a treat. You can see pics of it on the Instructable I published some years ago. (step 7 here : www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/ )
Do you think this would work with 1” square aluminum? The 1.5” is double the price. I have a Stihl MS 881 and 72” bar. I assume I could add more cross-supports to make up for the reduced size. What are your thoughts ?
I do tend to overbuild so I imagine it would be ok if the jount detail way done well, but only one way to find out 😉
@@FloweringElbow thanks! Which fastener did you use to get the bar attached to the end of the extruded aluminum section? Did you have to drill those holes in your bar?
@@bikenasty7322 all this and much more answered in the book we wrote on Cs milling ;) ko-fi.com/s/dd5b46e8a8
Use a 8mm or equivalent hight tensile (10.9 minimum) bolts to go through the nose and powerhead side of the bar. Remember to locktite all bolts or they are likely to vibrate loose.
Lots of advice about drilling the bar in the book... any specific Qs just ask :)
is it reasonable to think you could make a band saw mill out of extruded aluminum framing?
Hi Meyer. It's a really interesting idea. It is obvious be possible, but whether it would be worth the effort... Steel is so easy and cheap to joint strongly with welds, in comparison.
There is a lot of frame strength needed to properly tension a big band mill blade.
But a light transportable alu mill would certainly be interesting... You thinking about making one?
FloweringElbow I am because of the large versatility, lightweight design, and potential for transporting in the bed of a truck or small trailer. What has been your favorite wood you’ve milled with this set up?
@@nathanmeyer9676 I would be really interested in seeing this, and would happily give you my thoughts on any designs you might be toying with...
In terms of favourite woods I've milled: Oak or Ash I think.
Fresh ash is wonderful and the flat but ever so slightly furry texture you can get cs milling is really unique, it's bark stays nicely bonded if you dry it away from the elements, which adds up to very special slabs for furniture making. I like making one face planed and polished absolutely flat and leaving one furry - it's a nice tactile contrast...
And Oak... well, Oak just smells amazing when you cut it ;)
@@nathanmeyer9676 not exactly a band saw but still very... resourceful?!
ruclips.net/video/KHKF_JXM7LU/видео.html
hi, try using a 3/8 picco ripping chain and a GB 1.3mm 3/8 picco chain bar. (its 6.2 mm vs. 8.2mm wide) its speeds up the milling process by a factor of three.
Have you see the mod that they put a winch on the mill to help you pull it down the slab.
Hi salmon, thanks for the comment. I have seen that and I have always been quite resistant to the idea because I feel that if the slab is set up nicely on a slope and you have a sharp chain, then the mill essentially pulls itself into the cut.. If you have to start pushing with mu h force you know the chain is dull.
FloweringElbow how often on your largest slabs do you need to sharpen the chain?
Working in Sandals?
7:55
WOW WEE!! thats some PPE!
I dont think sandles and shorts should be promoted on a video like this. 🤣
Hi Bongo, I have started to build my own mill. Unfortunately I can't find the connectors you use for connecting the long rails (A) with the inner bracing (B) any tips on where to find them?
Hey Jack. Thanks for the question - I see my guide is a bit vague in this regard, and I will need to clarify when I get time. You can get the expensive fasteners for this, but all you really need is an M8 "button flange head allen bolt" - something like this: bit.ly/bolt_hex
@@FloweringElbow Thanks for the speedy reply, its the little winged tabs that those bolts thread into that the extrusion then slides onto that I am after. I have all the bolts just cant find thos little tabs anywhere.
See 1.48 in the video for a clear shot of what I am talking about
@@jackbrehony1 I see the ones you mean I think, and it was a long time ago: that they were these Standard Connector Element here: www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/Std-Connector-Element.html but you will need to check they fit your sized extrusion...
Thanks a million that’s exactly what I was looking for
Did you design this cutter or buy a kit
Hi. I made it. Just google 'flowering elbow chainsaw mill instructable' to see complete free plans and design....
Would an MS 660 be sufficient for this setup using the 36" bar? or im I going to be having troubles with the engine stress? is the extra $800 worth it for the 880?
I've been using a MS661 with a 36" bar and it cuts fine in hardwood (tried maple and hickory). Pretty sure the it can handle longer bars with ease.
@@eivindmong I mill with 661 and 36 inch bar no probs. You could even go up to 42" and it would handle it.
I READ THROUGH MANY COMMENTS, BUT CAN'T FIND LINK FOR ALUMINUM SQUARE STOCK
Try looking In the video description.
Hi there. It's Rick again n have a question for you when drying freshly milled boards slabs exedra how do you keep the bugs and ants from investing.
I haven't ever had a problem with ants... but in terms of woodworm, keeping them dry helps and stripping the bark off and pressure washing or cleaning some other way... are you storing inside, under cover?
I want to duplicate your sawmill. Could you make a video showing the depth attachment please?
Hi Matt, I wont be making that video sorry. But there's loads more information / diagrams etc here: www.instructables.com/Chainsaw-Mill-Build-Use-Tips-n-Tricks/
Great video thankyou. Ive just purchased a 2nd hand Stihl 660 with intention of getting a new 36" bar. Its got the replaceable rim drive sprocket so heres my chance to go for the better choice. ⅜" (currently fitted on 30" crosscut bar) or .404. Wood being milled is fresh cut green oak, beech and cherry. Much time on youtube has led me to believe that full chisel 10° grind is best, with every other pair of teeth ground to scoring teeth (AKA Lowpro) and clearing teeth. I have access to a Granburg mill attachment so all that side of it is sorted. Bar and chain is my only concern thankyou.
Also do you consider bark removal a good option to prolong sharpness.... (if practical).
@@Igotknobblies yes to bark removal depending on how dirty the log and final use. If im undecided I'll often remove the opposite side (so the grit doesn't pulled through the cut). But bark on inboard side gets pushed off from the clean inner face during cutting, so less blunting (that's my theory anyway 😉)
Personally I'd go .404, it takes a bigger bite (depth guages lower) so it's faster all other things being equal... Good luck 😀
I have been looking at constructing a mill off your design using the extruded parts. They make a set of bearing surfaces that would constrain the whole mill during cutting and reduce the need to control the slight up/down movement of the powerhead and would double as brilliant 1st cut assembly guide. You would use the guide each cut.....but I tend to way overthink most things www.8020.net has a wide knowledge base of all of the varients
Hey Bruce. Yep, I agree, you could totally make your edge guide from extrusion and add a jointing bearing surface in to constrain it more. I do think it might be more hassle/cost than it's worth unless you don't all ready have a ladder or similar you can use as the guide?
@@FloweringElbow I have seen copies of the Granberg ez rail system coming from China that are very cheap and quite tempting to purchase. I must admit that just starting out I am wondering if coming up with a viable way to get the logs up to a better working height might add years to my life if not my 61yo back. As a wood turner I can't seem to pass up the chance to harvest a nice crotch featured piece of wood and by natural extension the giddy feeling when I first see what is inside the 1st slab when my sawyer had made a cut. BTW have you ever qtr sawn any of the massive oaks? Inefficient but magnificent results and bring a much higher price at market for furniture makers. I look forward to your future videos be well my new friend
just saying nice vid thanks hi
I like the noodles. Does that mean the saw is cutting better ? Less dust must be good either way.
It does seem to be smother, and quicker, but has more of a tendency to bog down the saw as the stringy bits can block up the sawdust exhaust rout... So I'm not sure in sum. It is cool thought!
Do you use a hard nose bar or sproket nose? I noticed how you have your mill attached on the front an was wondering. Love the milling videos, keep them coming!
Thanks Clint. I use a hard nose bar... I would probably rather have a sprocket, but hard nose is what came with the saw. I have used a sprocket nose In the past and you can drill the bar right in the middle of the sprocket attachment. Requires a carbide drill bit to get through though...
Hello! Is there any update upgrade on the device? I read your plan (link in your description).
Thank you for sharing and goodluck!
Hey thanks Wizan. No huge updates. The latest is experiments with aux oiler and winch. TBH I've been spending more time working on the big CNC.
@@FloweringElbow thanks!
throttle lock might be useful?
Good point. I have toyed with it. Check the very first clip of the vid... I'm undecided on it... An axillary throttle on the mill could be useful.
Would you be willing to post some measurements I'm actually looking into making one of these and I work at a scrap yard your exclusion looks like one in or is it two in we get it in all the time I'd love to know the measurements of your saw you know you're you're set up so I can make my own please
Robert that's no problem if you check out the instructable all the measurements are there. Along with plans advice etc.
Robert that's no problem if you check out the instructable all the measurements are there. Along with plans advice etc.
Nice
Thanks D H
im a bit confused, did you drill through the sprocket?
yes!
Cool
Maybe if you were to put some hooks on it not only would you be able to maintain the cut in the hard to reach places leaving the hand free to aid the jig through the wider cuts but it acts as a guard as well, you could also grind the hooks back to suit
Do the joints keep loosen up..
I have never had a problem with that. All bolts have low strength loctite on them...
Do you sell your revised mill ?
No sorry. It's fairly easy to build. If you check out my free plans on instructables, there is a materials list there...
@@FloweringElbow Many thanks + no drama
I really enjoy your shows, especially the outdoors stuff, as well as the specific advice - pls keep it up
Thanks@@ianbrown2016, Appreciate that!
Get rid of toxic fumes, noise and big chunk of wasting material with every cut and build big electric bandsaw mill like Camarata did. 😉🤓
wow!!!
My only comment is SAFETY GEAR???????? You often work alone, and you're thoughtful, but experienced loggers have cut arteries that can be the end of your life. Sorry to be a wet blanket. The extruded aluminum and guards are great.
Thomas Tieffenbacher/DocSavage45 on my mill the chain is trapped within the mill at two spots. If it derails, it likely ruins the chain, but it would have to break in order to leave the general bar area. All that said, and I still wear chaps, helmet, eye pro, ear pro, and gloves. One mistake with a 90cc saw, and my son doesn’t have a daddy.
hello :)
Hello. I built an Alaska mill on my channel as well.
Nice work.
@@FloweringElbow Thanks
Hello 👋 😇
Why would you cut off the tips off your log dogs? I know you needed more space to open up the mill but why not just get out your metric wrenches and remove them for later. Better yet put them on ebay and buy yourself a 30 pack of beer with the extra cash. Sorry, some constructive criticism would be try ripping chain. The chip will be different but the cuts will be smoother and the saw will like it better too.
And your giving out advice😂😂😂
I've thought about getting a 880 to mill with but the dang things are so expensive i feel like I'd rather just spend a bit more and buy a bandsaw mill
Hi BwrightAway, I know what you mean. It's all the extra costs of a handsaw that add up though - storage space, infrastructure to move logs to the saw, etc etc... OK If you are already stup with a nice space and tractor though...
ruclips.net/video/vLVjUEln1SI/видео.html
Don't know if you've come across this mill upgrade or no but check out the link.
Did I just witness a guy milling in shorts and sandles? wtf!
Haha you must be new here...
Have been up mountains in those safety sandals 👡
@@FloweringElbow I just value my legs dude.
Whats up with the nudity at 05:55? ;)