I have a entry level aluminum cyclocross bike. It had a very Ridgid aluminum seatpost. I had changed it to a carbon post with a curved post for set back. it was a noticable improved the ride. It can flex a bit too much on some bumpy terrain.but for most of my riding it was a big improvement. It was one of those cheap Chinese seat post. I took a chance, but I don't regret it. Good so far. 185 pound rider
I switched from an aluminium seatpost to a Fizik carbon fibre one a number of years ago. Yes, it makes the bike more comfortable, more than you might expect.
@@jefferycampbell2243 Giant has their D-Fuse seatposts with a D-shape, specifically to allow for slight bending and improving comfort (especially on their aluminium bikes). They do really seem to work, although they require a frame with a specifically shaped seattube.
You can ride (almost) without punctures by using heavy duty tires like the schwalbe marathon plus. with the cons of more weight, wooden hard ride feel and less grip in the wet. there is nothing like free lunch here and a tire is always a compromise between weight, grip, rolling resistance, feel and toughness.
The normal Marathon tire feels considerably less like riding on concrete tires than the plus. I'd classify the plus as an e bike only tire. Too heavy otherwise
To the person asking why the tire looses pressure over this short amount of time: I got the same problem and i probably got your back. Try tightening the inner part of the valve. If you unscrewed it to get the sealant in it's likely that you didn't screw it strong enough. I've had this with my brand new bike and was wondering why it lost serious amounts of air even after just one day of sitting in the basement. This solved it for me and it's so simple :)
For the pressure drop gave you checked your rim tape? A lot of setups leak through the rim tape. Try double wrapping, but make sure you clean the surface very well first!
I had similar issue on Fulcrum 7 aluminium wheel similar or identical to yours. I solved reading their online instruction manual on tubeless conversion where they show you must first put a piece of tape crossing side to side the rim internal channel in the spot where you have the weld junction. And of course you need to use sealant Joe's worked for me.
I’ve been running metallic pads for a while. They don’t offer the same level of bite as organic compounds but they last a lot longer. In addition, metallic pads are easier to deal with when they have been contaminated with oils and other debris from the roads. Just scrub the pads with some acetone and sand them down a bit, clean the rotor with acetone and the are good as new. In my experience resin pads do not hold up as well. They seem to be contaminated to a notable level more easily and are trashed most of the time even if you try to decontaminate.
True, except on the bite. Metallic pads need more heat in them to properly start biting. Most rides don't create enough heat during short braking to reach their optimum temperature. However, when doing sustained descending, they actually brake better than organic pads, which tend to overheat more easily. Do note that metallic pads are a bit harder on your rotors.
@@macvos they might not be at their optimal temp, but I find that the system still has more than enough power to lock a wheel on demand. They also seem to cope way better than resin on descents and everything stays coolers with no fade. Personally I think the noise they make is cool as well. They are the easy choice for me. Everyone has their own preference tho and there is no doubt resin pads are easier on rotors.
I run tubeless with Vittoria air-liners and that's as good a puncture protection on a road bike gets. On anything other than the longest rides to rural areas I don't carry spares or a pump and have zero stress. the Air-liners are 💯
I switched from an alloy post to a Canyon S13 VCLS CF carbon seatpost on an alloy Cannondale Topstone. It made a very noticeable difference. It greatly reduced road buzz and damped the harshness when going over large cracks in pavement. While my reason for getting this post where due to it's extended saddle setback/offset, the softening of the ride was a bonus. It was expensive, but I'd do it again just to get the softer ride. I have a new Trek Checkpoint SL5 that has a carbon frame and seatpost, also a feature they call Isospeed. It has a very nice feel. Much due to the carbon frame and Isospeed, but I think the carbon seatpost is part of this. No question larger tires and/or lower tire pressure will have a bigger effect on the ride feel, but I think a carbon seatpost is certainly something to consider.
I changed my carbon post on my gravel bike to an aluminum post because I noticed some fatigue near my sit bones from the saddle moving so much. The carbon post on my road bike is more comfortable though.
The ritchey superlogic seatpost, 25mm layback definitely does improve comfort. I didn’t buy it for that and was shocked that I could actually tell in just 200ft that it did, because for me I live on a brick stream and the most uncomfortable part of the ride is always my own street.
@@luukrutten1295 why can they not be more comfortable - Thompson seatposts are well designed and it's well established that setback seatposts result in greater deflection.
To amplify the point about auto tires, most of them have steel belts backing the tread. Tire models intended for high speed use over extended periods of time are made without steel belts to prevent creating a heat sink and, as a consequence, are more prone to puncture. So high speed auto tires aren't usually used on the street, except by those intent on breaking the speed limit.
Forgetting racing for a moment cos I retired from that many years ago. Totally club level but my ftp 30 years ago was 350 watts but now nearer 250. I now cycle just for pleasure. I am way nearer 60 than 50. I have a full carbon bike which is light and is good fun to ride but I actually still have my old Peugeot that I used to race on with 531 tubing and have to say it still makes me smile when I ride it and I often think why did I waste all that money on a carbon bike. The carbon bike is so stiff and unforgiving. The old steely is so much smoother and comfortable on our crap rough uk roads. I do most rides on the carbon bike cos I spent so much money on it I feel I should but actually almost regret getting it. If I was younger and still racing then maybe would appreciate it more. Too many channels concentrate on the latest greatest carbon offerings but actually for us mere mortals with max powers under 1000 watts the carbon bikes are just OTT imo
Sell it? Treat yourself to a modern steel bike or just ride the old one. Never been a better time to sell a second hand bike as prices have never been higher.
I'm pretty close to your profile, 63 now. I've ridden a few carbon bikes and they vary tremendously in comfort. The Serenity track bike was ridiculously stiff which was great for the track. The Time VRS was like butter but nicely stiff in torsion. My 531 bike has considerably more road buzz.
ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organization) states a maximum pressure of 5 bar but not based on their own extensive testing. Zipp has done tests in which the blow out pressure of hookless and hooked rims is roughly the same. Giant allows higher pressures on their hookless Cadex rims depending on tyresize. So I'll put 6 bar in the 25 mm Conti GP 5000 TR of my new carbon rear wheel.
Regarding the carbon seatpost and comfort, Lenard Zinn did an objective analysis of this years ago and concluded that the greatest damping effect was in the case of a post that had the greatest setback and was made of carbon. The least was a zero setback post made of aluminium. I actually designed my custom steel bike frame with this in mind and it worked out great, but it’s still tire pressure and volume thAt matter most.
Hey Tech Team! I am considering buying a new bike equipped with the new Ultegra 12s Groupset. I am held back by the fact though, that it only comes with a 52/36 chainset. Would it be possible to upgrade the chainset to the new 54/40 Dura Ace 12s one? In general how interchangeable are the new 12s components between Dura-Ace and Ultegra? Thank you in advance! Greetings from Germany!
I use continental grand prix 4 seasons and haven't had a puncture in over a year of daily commuting on crap roads (broken glass is a common sight on my commute) on the motorbike I averaged 2 punctures a year on my commute.
#AskGCNTech for pro teams like Movistar who are sponsored by Zipp, what wheel/tire combo do they use? If tubeless is really the fastest, do they use 454 NSW and 28mm tires at 60psi (since zipp doesn't support 25mm tires for most hookless wheels/tires)?
Two technical comments. Spinning out with 53x11? Wolftooth makes a 10-tooth cog. Loosing tire pressure over time? Maybe the liner tape needs replacing.
Air leakage on mtb tires is common due to release agent inside which the sealant cannot "grab". The old GP5000 TL is fully sealed; the new GP5000 s tr is not. Tubeless valves is a little bit tricky to get fully sealed
For the person who was asking about losing pressure on tubeless, check also that the tyres are correctly seated in the rims, that they’ve fully “popped” into place. Makes a big difference.
The shape of a car tyre does also help a lot with automotive tyres, they almost squeeze the puncture and create and air tight seal around the object (depending on what it is obviously)
6:50 - Please do a video on solid tyres! Maybe some real world speed tests too please. I've heard that they can cause a lot of spoke breakages due to the lack of cushioning
having a carbon seatpost on your aluminium bike makes it more comfortable and helps handling for sure. carbon post on carbon frame has way less effect due to the difference in the stiffness of aluminium and carbon fibre. dropping 100+ grams from the very top of the bike makes sense. just like using lightweight tyres and rims.
Would like to see the material science data to support the statement 'that a carbon post on an aluminium bike makes it more comfortable and helps handling.' I'm sorry I just don't agree with the statement.
@@kidkarbon4775 why is that? just curious. if you ask me to provide scientific data i could also ask you to do the same. my answer is quite simple: if you lose weight from the very top of your bike (saddle and/or seatpost) the center of gravity gets closer to the ground so you have less inertia which helps handling. the question of comfort is more complex, because different seatposts have different ways to hold the saddle rails taht affect comfort a lot, so this might be more important than the material of the seatpost.
@@domonkosscheiling5809 I fail to see why I should provide data as I am not the one made the statement. I simply stated I do not agree with it. A seat post requires a certain level of deflection for comfort as such ultimate stiffness is never the objective. For example the Ergon CF3 seatpost requires a force of 69N to flex one vertical mm while a Canyon frame requires 7000N of force. A well designed seatpost flexes at a rate 100x greater than a steel frame. Without deflection a seat post is not able to reduce high frequency vibrations from the road or take care of bigger impacts thanks to the 20mm+ (0.89") of vertical flex in seatposts such as the Ergon CF3. A linear relationship exists between deflection and force (for the small range typically observed in seatposts) which helps to predict flex at different force rates. Ultimately implying that seatpost comfort can be dictated by stiffness is at the very least an incomplete argument as the amount of post sticking out of the frame influences that greatly as does rider weight. The material choice for a seatpost is less important than deflection properties and the resonance frequency of the finished product. I'm yet to see any research that states otherwise.
i swapped out the 31.6 aluminum seatpost to a 27.2 carbon seatpost on my ibis hakka (carbon gravel bike) and the change in comfort was huge, so it can make a pretty big difference on a carbon frame as well.
I used to own a Giant TCR that had 53-11, I could get 50mph on the downhills around Bedfordshire but my legs were spinning too fast to go any faster. I had Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons which never punctured.
Hey GCN - Should I sacrifice comfort for aero in terms of tyre width? Current set up is Schwalbe One 28 TLE, thinking of swapping the front tyre to a Schwalbe Pro One 25 TLE. My Hyper 50 has a 26mm external rim width #askgcntech
Im gonna assume that what the 53/11 guy meant is he lives in a mountainous area where all the riding is up or down, and the descents are long and steep enough to be over 55kph most of the time. I live in an area with some long descents, sometimes in the tailwind, and i find myself able to pedal up to about 73kph in the 52/11 because of cadence (although im not putting down a lot of power at those high revs), *but* in those instances I am in top gear for minutes at a time, which can def make you wish you had one extra gear to pedal slower, especially if super high cadence isn't your thing still, 52/11 is more than i can sprint (i think i've managed top gear in a sprint like twice) and I think this is the more important limiting factor than descending speed, where you can keep accelerating by supertucking anyways.
#askgcntech afternoon Alex and Ollie (Manon, Connor), would I gain anything from changing my cheap lightweight carbon seatpost, to a USE Allien Aero carbon seatpost slightly heavier?! I ride a ti bike and found gains in aero wheels and bars?! Thanks in advance!
Hey Ollie, the middle of the block is not the most efficient. The 14T or 15T cog will give you the best drivetrain efficiency. The straighter chainline of riding in the 14T has a bigger impact in efficiency compared to the larger 19T cog. This was tested by Friction Facts back before they were acquired by CeramicSpeed. I would be surprised if you didn't know that
#AskGCNTech I am riding on Continental GP Attack/Force (22mm/24mm widths) clinchers They are still in good shape so I don't need to replace them. Our roads are very flat here in the southernmost part of Canada, but are often rough with a lot of broken pavement. I used to run my tire pressure at 115 to 120 psi, which on smooth pavement was great. With a view to the current trend towards wider tires and lower pressures, I am now down to 90 psi, and find it much more comfortable to ride. For reference I weigh 98 kg,. My questions are ... How low of pressure can I run before risking pinch flats? Is there a way of determining the pressure that yields minimum rolling resistance?
Hey! I noticed that when I go to 50x11 the chain starts to vibrate from side to side. After replacing the chain and cassette with new ones, the problem remained. Is this normal or is there a problem with the cranks or the rear shifter? #AskGCNTech
I need some advice. I have a Huffy Kid's bike geared 70/9 and I keep spinning out. Any advice so I can more comfortably cruise at 55 miles per hour on the flats...
I’m running a tubeless setup on my Trek Checkpoint gravel bike with carbon wheels and 40mm Maxxis Rambler tires. I typically run these at about 30-35 PSI. I’ve noticed that my rear tire always looks low/saggy/etc. (my front tire does the shame if I shift all it weight forward). Is this normal with the wider, low pressure gravel tires or do I need to add some air to round it out a bit. Also, do most of my riding on chunky gravel and chip/seal paved roads.
I have a gravel bike with 2x11 GRX groupset which I'm predominantly using for road rides atm. Chainring is 46/30 and I have a 11/34 cassette. I'm finding I need some more gears top end and rarely find myself using the easiest gears unless on longer climbs. What am I better off replacing the rear cassette or the chainring? Pretty sure GRX is cross compatible with 105 but I have no idea what I'm better off replacing. I still use the small chainring for longer steeper climbs so I'm clueless. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏
Schwalbe Marathon Plus - the so called "un-punctureable" with the thick blue protective layer - are unbearably heavy, half a metric pound per wheel. Switched back to regular ones after having tested them as a bike messenger and feeling much more exhausted after every shift due to frequently having to accelerate in city traffic.
#askgcntech. I have an old time trial bike that I still like. Recently the front derailleur mount broke. Because of the bike's age and the manufacturer no longer being in business, my local shop told me my options were find a used mount from that model bike (2008 Guru Chrono) or turn it into a 1x. A 1x would really be ok for most of the races, but probably could not get up the hills around my house if I went on a training ride. Any other thoughts? 3D printing? Or what could options be for turning it into a 1x?
BTW You should not just switch pad from resin to metal wihtout checking if your rotor allows this! I just bought a new rotor. I did not check what it was. Slapped those metal pads.. And I had no brakes at all. It didn't stop. Then I read from shimano that the rotor was for RESIN PADS ONLY!
I ride a Cinelli mash fixed gear with carbon fork but alu steerer and 23mm tyres. It is my most comfortable bike with a 3t carbon seatpost and Deda carbon bars even with no bar tape. Carbon makes a big difference. Plus my canyon aeroad which is complete carbon is also just as comfortable
If you use organic brakepads that have not undergone a bed-in procedure they wear out a lot faster and perform underpar from the start ! Ten minutes well spent after changing your brakepads I would say.
***WARNING @Eric Bellrose - Continental GP5000 TL is NOT hookless compatible. Only the latest GP5000 S TR (which is in short supply, so you possibly don't have) is hookless compatible. #AskGCNTech could you let other viewers know that they have to check their tyres are specifically hookless-compatible?
#AskGCNTech Why is a power meter more accurate for measuring calories burned than a heart rate monitor? I understand that a power meter directly measures the work performed, which can then be converted to calories, whereas a heart rate monitor is only measuring the effect on the cardiovascular system from said effort. Therefore the power meter offers a more direct measurement. But wouldn’t the power meter leave out a metabolic factor, e.g. how efficient you are at performing the work required? In other words, wouldn’t, say, holding 300 Watts for an hour be a lot harder for someone who isn’t a pro, and because their body cannot use fuel as efficiently, they might burn a lot more calories to perform the same output?
Correct. The sidewalls of my GP5000 TL tires are marked "mount only on hooked rims". I don't have the s TR version, but I believe that can be used on either hooked or hookless.
#AskGCNTech When upgrading from the wheels that originally came with my bike, how do I determine if a new wheelset is better than what I already have? I am looking for a wheelset in the $500 range to put on a bike that was ~$1400 new and just don’t know what to look for.
#ASKGCNTECH- My new Cervélo Aspero-5 has the Shimano GRX Di2 group set with 48/31 chainrings. Is there a 50 tooth option available for the GRX crankset? I have search the internet and can’t find one.
#ASKGCNTECH Hi guys - i am currently trying to figure out what type of bikefit to get since i am having a bit of problems with a sore knee and neck. I have the choice between the IDmatch bikefit, and a regular old fashioned bikefit. There is a price difference of about 110 GBP, with the old fashioned bikefit being the most expensive. I am in no way a professional, i ride about 5-7 hours a week if that matters :-)
Dear Ali Shafai I doubt that you have a lot of flats with conti 4 seasons on max pressure and if so. go for schwalbe marathon plus. they are heavy and ride like a disaster but they ere bulletproof. best Ianis
@@larsmunch4536 I have a 2022 SL5 (with all my upgrades, probably an SL11 by now) which came with alloy seat mast. There is a noticeable difference in carbon for sure. Liking the carbon
#AskGCNTech Hi guys, I've got a question about aero-bikes: If you look at bikes like the Canyon Aeroad and Trek Madone those bikes look really aero and fast, I guess mainly because of their frames and especially the down-tube. But when you look at bikes like the S-Works SL7 and the Scott Foil, those bikes, in my opinion, doesn't look "as fast" or "as aero" because the frameset looks less aero. But both the SL7 and the Foil are designed with aerodynamics in mind, so my question is what really makes a bike an aero-bike? Is it the frame, the bar and stem, the wheels or a combination? And what would you say is the best aero upgrade: A more narrow handlebar with an aero profile or a set of deep section wheels? Cheers and thank you for great content!
The marketing? ;-) As far as I know the main part is the rider. There's a video of GCN that checks effects of tight clothes, helmet and wheels. Aerodynamics is often "what looks fast is fast" but it's often not that simple.
the wheels and the rider will contribute to most of the drag. changing your riding position and adding some deep wheels will make a huge difference. an aero frame/bars/stem will not.
I’ve been riding for 2 years with latex tubes and real cheap pretty grippy tires and never gotten a flat lol. I also never ride with spare tubes so I’m very lucky i guess
#AskGCNTech Hey! I sadly bought a frame that's a bit too big for me, I shortened the stem and lengthwise I'm OK but even slamming it still gives me a too tall handlebar, less than an inch below the seat. I'm also quite slow compared to friends with other road bikes that actually fit them and have bigger drops from the seat, so they tuck a lot better than I do. Is the aero penalty really THAT significant for a weekend aficionado on flat-ish roads? Or I just suck?
#AskGCNTech - Hi, regarding last weeks question (on spinning out on 53/11) - my preferred cadence is around 60 - or rather, I prefer do to 6-8w per rpm (and trying to stay above 300w). I *definitely* do not fly around above 50km/h all the time. I only do 90rpm for shorter sprints/uphills (at 6-700w).
Do you have a different definition of 'spinning out' than us? 60rpm at 53-11 is utterly ridiculous to consider as 'spinning'. This is Grinding, surely? But, genuinely interested in finding out the issue here???
@@chrisjepson8071 Spinning out as in not being able to pedal fast enough without compromising power - if I go at e.g. 55 km/h, I have to go at 90rpm, and I just can't maintain that for long, at least not with the power output I want.
I'm not an expert but if you have the feeling of Spinning out at 90rpm you should work on your cadence rather than changing something on the bike. Please do it before trying crazy stuff like Zwift or any training app where 90rpm is considered not as high.
#askgcntech Hi, Just switched my tires to tubeless and was wondering if you need to put the valve cap on the valves? With inner tubes I always threw them away but not sure if it’s different for tubeless valves. Thanks!
#AskGCNTech Im running Grand Prix 5000 Clincher Tires only 2 months old after a service I noticed a number of holes which have been filled with sealent. My question is how long would the sealent hold before I need to change tires ?
#AskGCNTech Hi all. I want to change my 11-32 cassette to a 11-34 one. I am running 50/34 at the front. Should I also change my chain due to a larger cog, or is the difference minimal and I can change the chain later?
As long as the chain can shift into large-large without straining the rear derailleur and the chain itself too much, it can stay. But it's good practice to not cross-chain when you ride anyway.
Hi everyone! I've had an aluminum gravel bike for years now. I'm thinking about upgrading to a carbon frame in the next couple of years, but I'm worried about rocks flying up and damaging the frame. But it seems like loads of people ride carbon frames without worrying about them breaking. I've always heard you should only ride what you can afford to replace. Am I too worried? Thanks! #AskGCNTech
Who runs at max psi? If the tyre is rated at 100, you should be running 80 anyway and then pay attention to your wheel rating as well. You're less likely to pop a tyre, get better rolling resistance, and more comfortable ride
I have the same problem in the summer. Not a direct solution but I wear one of those tennis wrist towel thingies so I can wipe my brow / eyes before getting stingy eyes. Not foolproof but potentially useful.
Living in Australia, sunscreen is a must. However, wearing a cycling cap under my helmet and decent glasses means that I only need to apply sunscreen on my nose and cheeks so it never gets in my eyes. Give that a go mate.
There’s a product just for this a d it’s called Veo Strip. It works well. It is basically a well -chosen piece of rubber gasket or seal with a good adhesive, that acts as a rain gutter for your eyebrows and forehead, channeling off sweat to the side of your face. Looks a big weird but with helmet and glasses no one will notice!
#AskGCNTech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked a couple of weeks ago by another viewer; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
#AskGCNTech I'm riding a Triban 520 (the black-and-white one) with a Sora groupset and it came with a 12-25 "SunRace" cassette. Is it worth the extra money to upgrade to a Shimano 11-28 cassette to have a little easier time in climbs and faster descents, while also taking advantage of the "HyperGlide" tech that the rear derailleur supposedly have?
If it's within the capacity of the rear derailleur and depending on the climbs you have, I'd go for a lowest gear that's even lower. The disadvantage is that the steps between other gears will get bigger.
@@jochenkraus7016 It's a RD-R3000 (SS I think). According to Shimano's website, it can go up to 32T, but I don't understand what's this "Max. front difference: 16T" they state. Up front I run the default 30-39-50 triple crankset that came with it.
@@rhobson Maybe I'm misinterpreting the specs, but according to the information I found it should be a long one for your crank (20 teeth in front, 43 in total). 16 teeth in front sounds much like they had 50/34 in mind. As far as i know you can combine road, trekking and MTB parts up to 9x. M310 has 22 teeth in front and 45 in total.
#askgcntech Hello all! I currently ride on GP5000 TLR and they are all worn out. I am planning to purchase GP5000s TLR. My LBS says that due to delayed shipping, they "MIGHT" get the new tires by July. What are the dangers and some drawbacks of riding tires that all worn out? Thanks!
When the GP5000 TL wear indicators are gone, the rubber is paper thin and some cords are starting to show. Once the cords show, the traction is seriously compromised (you risk sliding out on corners) and they have much less protection against punctures or blowouts.
#AskGCNTech Hi Guys, I've just got myself a nice shiny new bike, it has road boost spacing, do you know of any way of running an off the shelf Wheelset with standard road spacing in a boost frame. Are there any adaptors that you are aware of that I can buy? I would like to be able to share wheels between multiple bikes ideally. Thanks Rob
It is fun to imagine how the 53x11 comment could make sense. Is it a travel bike with tiny wheels? That even wouldn't make sense, maybe if its really 53x12 AND a travel bike, heh
#AskGCNTech Hi Alex, Manon and Oli. We know latex tubes are lighter and have lower rolling resistance. We also know they deflate quicker than normal tubes. If I’m doing a century ride riding for 6-8 hours, should I be worried about pumping tires mid ride? How much PSI will I lose over the course of the ride? Is it worth the risk? Thanks!
#AskGCNTech #Lube If using was-based lubes is clearly superior in terms of rolling resistance and maintenance, why isn't the cycling industry adopting this more? Is it just a case of tradition and slow evolution (such as disk brakes and tubeless tires) or any there any major disadvantages I should be aware of before switching?
Waxing chains has been around for decades (I started waxing my chains in the 80's). The major drawback is the extra work involved vs drip lubes and most people don't think the benefits are worth the extra work. Even I gave it up when I went to 11 speeds and the quick links were single use only.
I spin out on 58/14 all the time, but that's going to happen with the 16" wheels on my folding bike.
I have a entry level aluminum cyclocross bike. It had a very Ridgid aluminum seatpost. I had changed it to a carbon post with a curved post for set back. it was a noticable improved the ride. It can flex a bit too much on some bumpy terrain.but for most of my riding it was a big improvement. It was one of those cheap Chinese seat post. I took a chance, but I don't regret it. Good so far. 185 pound rider
I know what the problem with the guy who was spinning out was, he had small wheels. :)
Either that or he just needs to fit a chain😐
Brompton?
he didn’t use a chain 😂
Or maybe the Hub is not engaging properly and he is both pedaling hard AND free wheeling a bit
Gotta be. Or his rear derailleur isn't indexing all of the way down.
I switched from an aluminium seatpost to a Fizik carbon fibre one a number of years ago. Yes, it makes the bike more comfortable, more than you might expect.
eh, also placebo justifying your purchase plays a role
I upgraded to a carbon seat post. It saved a bit weight in my wallet.
There are a few carbon seat posts on the market that are specifically designed to soften the ride, like the Ergon CF3/Canyon VCLS 2.0 split post.
@@NefastusJones LOL same. We are now more aero
@@jefferycampbell2243 Giant has their D-Fuse seatposts with a D-shape, specifically to allow for slight bending and improving comfort (especially on their aluminium bikes). They do really seem to work, although they require a frame with a specifically shaped seattube.
You can ride (almost) without punctures by using heavy duty tires like the schwalbe marathon plus. with the cons of more weight, wooden hard ride feel and less grip in the wet. there is nothing like free lunch here and a tire is always a compromise between weight, grip, rolling resistance, feel and toughness.
The normal Marathon tire feels considerably less like riding on concrete tires than the plus. I'd classify the plus as an e bike only tire. Too heavy otherwise
Gatorskins work well for me. I've never punctures through them. I think the rolling resistance is poor though.
Why? Having tannus tyres which are lighter, aire free (100% puncture free) with better grip on wet why are you going to use the ones u said?
GP5000: laughs in the corner
@@nikivvsm it does but it's not exactly classified as a durable tire. Tradeoffs in everything
Best advice ever. Get a pro contract. Hilarious.
Not with his 26" wheels though 😁
Hi Folks, thanks for answering my carbon seat post question and likely saving me some money I can spend on other bike bits! Cheers.
To the person asking why the tire looses pressure over this short amount of time: I got the same problem and i probably got your back. Try tightening the inner part of the valve. If you unscrewed it to get the sealant in it's likely that you didn't screw it strong enough. I've had this with my brand new bike and was wondering why it lost serious amounts of air even after just one day of sitting in the basement. This solved it for me and it's so simple :)
For the pressure drop gave you checked your rim tape? A lot of setups leak through the rim tape. Try double wrapping, but make sure you clean the surface very well first!
I had similar issue on Fulcrum 7 aluminium wheel similar or identical to yours. I solved reading their online instruction manual on tubeless conversion where they show you must first put a piece of tape crossing side to side the rim internal channel in the spot where you have the weld junction. And of course you need to use sealant Joe's worked for me.
I’ve been running metallic pads for a while. They don’t offer the same level of bite as organic compounds but they last a lot longer. In addition, metallic pads are easier to deal with when they have been contaminated with oils and other debris from the roads. Just scrub the pads with some acetone and sand them down a bit, clean the rotor with acetone and the are good as new. In my experience resin pads do not hold up as well. They seem to be contaminated to a notable level more easily and are trashed most of the time even if you try to decontaminate.
True, except on the bite. Metallic pads need more heat in them to properly start biting. Most rides don't create enough heat during short braking to reach their optimum temperature. However, when doing sustained descending, they actually brake better than organic pads, which tend to overheat more easily.
Do note that metallic pads are a bit harder on your rotors.
@@macvos they might not be at their optimal temp, but I find that the system still has more than enough power to lock a wheel on demand. They also seem to cope way better than resin on descents and everything stays coolers with no fade. Personally I think the noise they make is cool as well. They are the easy choice for me. Everyone has their own preference tho and there is no doubt resin pads are easier on rotors.
I run tubeless with Vittoria air-liners and that's as good a puncture protection on a road bike gets. On anything other than the longest rides to rural areas I don't carry spares or a pump and have zero stress. the Air-liners are 💯
I switched from an alloy post to a Canyon S13 VCLS CF carbon seatpost on an alloy Cannondale Topstone. It made a very noticeable difference. It greatly reduced road buzz and damped the harshness when going over large cracks in pavement. While my reason for getting this post where due to it's extended saddle setback/offset, the softening of the ride was a bonus. It was expensive, but I'd do it again just to get the softer ride.
I have a new Trek Checkpoint SL5 that has a carbon frame and seatpost, also a feature they call Isospeed. It has a very nice feel. Much due to the carbon frame and Isospeed, but I think the carbon seatpost is part of this.
No question larger tires and/or lower tire pressure will have a bigger effect on the ride feel, but I think a carbon seatpost is certainly something to consider.
I have 53 - 14 as biggest gear and this week I avaraged over 40 kilometres per hour on the last 20 km, flat road.
I changed my carbon post on my gravel bike to an aluminum post because I noticed some fatigue near my sit bones from the saddle moving so much. The carbon post on my road bike is more comfortable though.
The ritchey superlogic seatpost, 25mm layback definitely does improve comfort. I didn’t buy it for that and was shocked that I could actually tell in just 200ft that it did, because for me I live on a brick stream and the most uncomfortable part of the ride is always my own street.
carbon seat posts and cranks are a must have ,not too expensive and gives you major gains
Cranks? How so?
These are the questions that need to be answered!
Seat posts: not all aluminium seat posts are equal. I swapped mine for a Thompson one with a set back angle, and it is comfy and light.
But thomson posts are among the stiffest out there.... I like their kit, but they can't be more comfortable.
@@luukrutten1295 why can they not be more comfortable - Thompson seatposts are well designed and it's well established that setback seatposts result in greater deflection.
Great show, guys...very relaxed and sensible advice throughout👍
Thanks guys. Thorough and entertaining answers
To amplify the point about auto tires, most of them have steel belts backing the tread. Tire models intended for high speed use over extended periods of time are made without steel belts to prevent creating a heat sink and, as a consequence, are more prone to puncture. So high speed auto tires aren't usually used on the street, except by those intent on breaking the speed limit.
Forgetting racing for a moment cos I retired from that many years ago. Totally club level but my ftp 30 years ago was 350 watts but now nearer 250. I now cycle just for pleasure. I am way nearer 60 than 50. I have a full carbon bike which is light and is good fun to ride but I actually still have my old Peugeot that I used to race on with 531 tubing and have to say it still makes me smile when I ride it and I often think why did I waste all that money on a carbon bike. The carbon bike is so stiff and unforgiving. The old steely is so much smoother and comfortable on our crap rough uk roads. I do most rides on the carbon bike cos I spent so much money on it I feel I should but actually almost regret getting it. If I was younger and still racing then maybe would appreciate it more. Too many channels concentrate on the latest greatest carbon offerings but actually for us mere mortals with max powers under 1000 watts the carbon bikes are just OTT imo
Sell it? Treat yourself to a modern steel bike or just ride the old one. Never been a better time to sell a second hand bike as prices have never been higher.
I'm pretty close to your profile, 63 now. I've ridden a few carbon bikes and they vary tremendously in comfort. The Serenity track bike was ridiculously stiff which was great for the track. The Time VRS was like butter but nicely stiff in torsion. My 531 bike has considerably more road buzz.
ETRTO (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organization) states a maximum pressure of 5 bar but not based on their own extensive testing. Zipp has done tests in which the blow out pressure of hookless and hooked rims is roughly the same. Giant allows higher pressures on their hookless Cadex rims depending on tyresize. So I'll put 6 bar in the 25 mm Conti GP 5000 TR of my new carbon rear wheel.
Very interesting set of questions and answers guys! ..thanks very much!
Regarding the carbon seatpost and comfort, Lenard Zinn did an objective analysis of this years ago and concluded that the greatest damping effect was in the case of a post that had the greatest setback and was made of carbon. The least was a zero setback post made of aluminium. I actually designed my custom steel bike frame with this in mind and it worked out great, but it’s still tire pressure and volume thAt matter most.
Regarding the seat post, I'd say try a carbon with layback, that might make a feelable difference. For me it did, albeit on an ordinary trekking bike.
Hey Tech Team!
I am considering buying a new bike equipped with the new Ultegra 12s Groupset. I am held back by the fact though, that it only comes with a 52/36 chainset.
Would it be possible to upgrade the chainset to the new 54/40 Dura Ace 12s one?
In general how interchangeable are the new 12s components between Dura-Ace and Ultegra?
Thank you in advance!
Greetings from Germany!
I use continental grand prix 4 seasons and haven't had a puncture in over a year of daily commuting on crap roads (broken glass is a common sight on my commute) on the motorbike I averaged 2 punctures a year on my commute.
#AskGCNTech for pro teams like Movistar who are sponsored by Zipp, what wheel/tire combo do they use? If tubeless is really the fastest, do they use 454 NSW and 28mm tires at 60psi (since zipp doesn't support 25mm tires for most hookless wheels/tires)?
I remember Dan LLoyd received the same question about spinning out on a large 53 tooth chainring______ He wasn't as forgiving though _________
Two technical comments. Spinning out with 53x11? Wolftooth makes a 10-tooth cog. Loosing tire pressure over time? Maybe the liner tape needs replacing.
Air leakage on mtb tires is common due to release agent inside which the sealant cannot "grab". The old GP5000 TL is fully sealed; the new GP5000 s tr is not. Tubeless valves is a little bit tricky to get fully sealed
For the person who was asking about losing pressure on tubeless, check also that the tyres are correctly seated in the rims, that they’ve fully “popped” into place. Makes a big difference.
The shape of a car tyre does also help a lot with automotive tyres, they almost squeeze the puncture and create and air tight seal around the object (depending on what it is obviously)
6:50 - Please do a video on solid tyres! Maybe some real world speed tests too please. I've heard that they can cause a lot of spoke breakages due to the lack of cushioning
having a carbon seatpost on your aluminium bike makes it more comfortable and helps handling for sure. carbon post on carbon frame has way less effect due to the difference in the stiffness of aluminium and carbon fibre. dropping 100+ grams from the very top of the bike makes sense. just like using lightweight tyres and rims.
Would like to see the material science data to support the statement 'that a carbon post on an aluminium bike makes it more comfortable and helps handling.'
I'm sorry I just don't agree with the statement.
@@kidkarbon4775 why is that? just curious. if you ask me to provide scientific data i could also ask you to do the same. my answer is quite simple: if you lose weight from the very top of your bike (saddle and/or seatpost) the center of gravity gets closer to the ground so you have less inertia which helps handling. the question of comfort is more complex, because different seatposts have different ways to hold the saddle rails taht affect comfort a lot, so this might be more important than the material of the seatpost.
@@domonkosscheiling5809 I fail to see why I should provide data as I am not the one made the statement. I simply stated I do not agree with it.
A seat post requires a certain level of deflection for comfort as such ultimate stiffness is never the objective.
For example the Ergon CF3 seatpost requires a force of 69N to flex one vertical mm while a Canyon frame requires 7000N of force. A well designed seatpost flexes at a rate 100x greater than a steel frame.
Without deflection a seat post is not able to reduce high frequency vibrations from the road or take care of bigger impacts thanks to the 20mm+ (0.89") of vertical flex in seatposts such as the Ergon CF3.
A linear relationship exists between deflection and force (for the small range typically observed in seatposts) which helps to predict flex at different force rates.
Ultimately implying that seatpost comfort can be dictated by stiffness is at the very least an incomplete argument as the amount of post sticking out of the frame influences that greatly as does rider weight.
The material choice for a seatpost is less important than deflection properties and the resonance frequency of the finished product. I'm yet to see any research that states otherwise.
i swapped out the 31.6 aluminum seatpost to a 27.2 carbon seatpost on my ibis hakka (carbon gravel bike) and the change in comfort was huge, so it can make a pretty big difference on a carbon frame as well.
I used to own a Giant TCR that had 53-11, I could get 50mph on the downhills around Bedfordshire but my legs were spinning too fast to go any faster. I had Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons which never punctured.
Hey GCN - Should I sacrifice comfort for aero in terms of tyre width? Current set up is Schwalbe One 28 TLE, thinking of swapping the front tyre to a Schwalbe Pro One 25 TLE. My Hyper 50 has a 26mm external rim width #askgcntech
Im gonna assume that what the 53/11 guy meant is he lives in a mountainous area where all the riding is up or down, and the descents are long and steep enough to be over 55kph most of the time.
I live in an area with some long descents, sometimes in the tailwind, and i find myself able to pedal up to about 73kph in the 52/11 because of cadence (although im not putting down a lot of power at those high revs), *but* in those instances I am in top gear for minutes at a time, which can def make you wish you had one extra gear to pedal slower, especially if super high cadence isn't your thing
still, 52/11 is more than i can sprint (i think i've managed top gear in a sprint like twice) and I think this is the more important limiting factor than descending speed, where you can keep accelerating by supertucking anyways.
Possibly, but unless he's on an ebike, he's going to be spending far more time grinding up the hill than spinning down it.
#askgcntech afternoon Alex and Ollie (Manon, Connor), would I gain anything from changing my cheap lightweight carbon seatpost, to a USE Allien Aero carbon seatpost slightly heavier?! I ride a ti bike and found gains in aero wheels and bars?!
Thanks in advance!
A carbon seatpost designed to flex can most definitely improve comfort. Try the Syntace P6 for example.
that rubbing on the crank arm. what causes that? Does it not illustrate an issue with your cleat position or the Q factor?
Just go with a 7000 series aluminum Thomson Elite or Masterpiece seatpost👍👍. Or if you can afford it, their 3/2.5 Titanium versions🤘🤘
Hey Ollie, the middle of the block is not the most efficient. The 14T or 15T cog will give you the best drivetrain efficiency. The straighter chainline of riding in the 14T has a bigger impact in efficiency compared to the larger 19T cog. This was tested by Friction Facts back before they were acquired by CeramicSpeed. I would be surprised if you didn't know that
#AskGCNTech I am riding on Continental GP Attack/Force (22mm/24mm widths) clinchers They are still in good shape so I don't need to replace them. Our roads are very flat here in the southernmost part of Canada, but are often rough with a lot of broken pavement. I used to run my tire pressure at 115 to 120 psi, which on smooth pavement was great. With a view to the current trend towards wider tires and lower pressures, I am now down to 90 psi, and find it much more comfortable to ride. For reference I weigh 98 kg,.
My questions are ...
How low of pressure can I run before risking pinch flats?
Is there a way of determining the pressure that yields minimum rolling resistance?
Hey!
I noticed that when I go to 50x11 the chain starts to vibrate from side to side. After replacing the chain and cassette with new ones, the problem remained. Is this normal or is there a problem with the cranks or the rear shifter?
#AskGCNTech
Yes, yes,& yes!
I need some advice. I have a Huffy Kid's bike geared 70/9 and I keep spinning out. Any advice so I can more comfortably cruise at 55 miles per hour on the flats...
the guy spinning out that chainrings probably has BMX Tires 😂🤣😂🤣😂
I’m running a tubeless setup on my Trek Checkpoint gravel bike with carbon wheels and 40mm Maxxis Rambler tires. I typically run these at about 30-35 PSI. I’ve noticed that my rear tire always looks low/saggy/etc. (my front tire does the shame if I shift all it weight forward). Is this normal with the wider, low pressure gravel tires or do I need to add some air to round it out a bit. Also, do most of my riding on chunky gravel and chip/seal paved roads.
I have a gravel bike with 2x11 GRX groupset which I'm predominantly using for road rides atm. Chainring is 46/30 and I have a 11/34 cassette. I'm finding I need some more gears top end and rarely find myself using the easiest gears unless on longer climbs. What am I better off replacing the rear cassette or the chainring? Pretty sure GRX is cross compatible with 105 but I have no idea what I'm better off replacing. I still use the small chainring for longer steeper climbs so I'm clueless. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏
I had a carbon seatpost. I don't any more.
Remember your torque specs, kids!
5months for the pads is long…on V-brakes CX we had to change the monthly. Or even after just 1 gravel alpine descent 😜
re puncture protection - the schwalbe marathon supreme are good for commuting.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus - the so called "un-punctureable" with the thick blue protective layer - are unbearably heavy, half a metric pound per wheel. Switched back to regular ones after having tested them as a bike messenger and feeling much more exhausted after every shift due to frequently having to accelerate in city traffic.
Speaking of short life of disc brake pads, I've read of cyclocross races, in sandy soil, where new pads don't last the entire race.
that is a known problem and easy to solve with non perforated cx specific rotors
#askgcntech. I have an old time trial bike that I still like. Recently the front derailleur mount broke. Because of the bike's age and the manufacturer no longer being in business, my local shop told me my options were find a used mount from that model bike (2008 Guru Chrono) or turn it into a 1x. A 1x would really be ok for most of the races, but probably could not get up the hills around my house if I went on a training ride. Any other thoughts? 3D printing? Or what could options be for turning it into a 1x?
BTW You should not just switch pad from resin to metal wihtout checking if your rotor allows this! I just bought a new rotor. I did not check what it was. Slapped those metal pads.. And I had no brakes at all. It didn't stop. Then I read from shimano that the rotor was for RESIN PADS ONLY!
psi loss is normal , check tire pressure before every ride at least 2 times a week , pretty easy and simple
I ride a Cinelli mash fixed gear with carbon fork but alu steerer and 23mm tyres. It is my most comfortable bike with a 3t carbon seatpost and Deda carbon bars even with no bar tape. Carbon makes a big difference. Plus my canyon aeroad which is complete carbon is also just as comfortable
If you use organic brakepads that have not undergone a bed-in procedure they wear out a lot faster and perform underpar from the start ! Ten minutes well spent after changing your brakepads I would say.
Yes they do, love it!
***WARNING @Eric Bellrose - Continental GP5000 TL is NOT hookless compatible. Only the latest GP5000 S TR (which is in short supply, so you possibly don't have) is hookless compatible. #AskGCNTech could you let other viewers know that they have to check their tyres are specifically hookless-compatible?
#AskGCNTech Why is a power meter more accurate for measuring calories burned than a heart rate monitor? I understand that a power meter directly measures the work performed, which can then be converted to calories, whereas a heart rate monitor is only measuring the effect on the cardiovascular system from said effort. Therefore the power meter offers a more direct measurement. But wouldn’t the power meter leave out a metabolic factor, e.g. how efficient you are at performing the work required? In other words, wouldn’t, say, holding 300 Watts for an hour be a lot harder for someone who isn’t a pro, and because their body cannot use fuel as efficiently, they might burn a lot more calories to perform the same output?
I spin out on 52x11 all the time - on rollers. Haha!
Carbon seatposts can be far more comfortable to ride if you choose one with flex zones in them such as Cannondale SAVE carbon seatpost.
Is GP5000 TL even okay to run on Hookless? Is not the GP5000 S TR the model made for hookless?
Correct. The sidewalls of my GP5000 TL tires are marked "mount only on hooked rims". I don't have the s TR version, but I believe that can be used on either hooked or hookless.
#AskGCNTech When upgrading from the wheels that originally came with my bike, how do I determine if a new wheelset is better than what I already have? I am looking for a wheelset in the $500 range to put on a bike that was ~$1400 new and just don’t know what to look for.
You can achieve car levels of flat avoidance by riding in the same place as the cars. The main cause of flats is riding in the debris on the side.
#ASKGCNTECH- My new Cervélo Aspero-5 has the Shimano GRX Di2 group set with 48/31 chainrings. Is there a 50 tooth option available for the GRX crankset? I have search the internet and can’t find one.
#ASKGCNTECH Hi guys - i am currently trying to figure out what type of bikefit to get since i am having a bit of problems with a sore knee and neck. I have the choice between the IDmatch bikefit, and a regular old fashioned bikefit. There is a price difference of about 110 GBP, with the old fashioned bikefit being the most expensive. I am in no way a professional, i ride about 5-7 hours a week if that matters :-)
Thx for making this vid
LOL THE ANSWER ABOUT CHAINLINE!!! THIS KIND OF STUFF CRACKS YOU UP IF YOU WORK IN A BIKE SHOP!!!
Dear Ali Shafai
I doubt that you have a lot of flats with conti 4 seasons on max pressure and if so. go for schwalbe marathon plus. they are heavy and ride like a disaster but they ere bulletproof.
best
Ianis
Trek Emonda with carbon seat mast, feels great.
However seat mast may be different story than carbon seatpost
I also have an Emonda (SL6, 2017, with mechanical Ultegra 6800), so I have no choice.
@@larsmunch4536 I have a 2022 SL5 (with all my upgrades, probably an SL11 by now) which came with alloy seat mast. There is a noticeable difference in carbon for sure. Liking the carbon
#AskGCNTech Hi guys,
I've got a question about aero-bikes: If you look at bikes like the Canyon Aeroad and Trek Madone those bikes look really aero and fast, I guess mainly because of their frames and especially the down-tube. But when you look at bikes like the S-Works SL7 and the Scott Foil, those bikes, in my opinion, doesn't look "as fast" or "as aero" because the frameset looks less aero. But both the SL7 and the Foil are designed with aerodynamics in mind, so my question is what really makes a bike an aero-bike? Is it the frame, the bar and stem, the wheels or a combination? And what would you say is the best aero upgrade: A more narrow handlebar with an aero profile or a set of deep section wheels?
Cheers and thank you for great content!
The marketing? ;-)
As far as I know the main part is the rider. There's a video of GCN that checks effects of tight clothes, helmet and wheels.
Aerodynamics is often "what looks fast is fast" but it's often not that simple.
the wheels and the rider will contribute to most of the drag. changing your riding position and adding some deep wheels will make a huge difference. an aero frame/bars/stem will not.
I’ve been riding for 2 years with latex tubes and real cheap pretty grippy tires and never gotten a flat lol. I also never ride with spare tubes so I’m very lucky i guess
#AskGCNTech Hey! I sadly bought a frame that's a bit too big for me, I shortened the stem and lengthwise I'm OK but even slamming it still gives me a too tall handlebar, less than an inch below the seat. I'm also quite slow compared to friends with other road bikes that actually fit them and have bigger drops from the seat, so they tuck a lot better than I do. Is the aero penalty really THAT significant for a weekend aficionado on flat-ish roads? Or I just suck?
You can gain ~120mm drop by riding in the drops all the time.
@@dreimer2112 got a bad neck, can't do that for a full ride my man. I'd like a more aero position on the hoods.
Can we please have Ollie riding through custard, he seems to have some experience of this.
6:02 Scwalbe Marathon series tires make flats a less than once a year occurance.
And they ride fairly alright, for how durable they are
Ernestas, overtape your rim tape with heavy duty electrical tape. You may find less leakage.
#AskGCNTech - Hi, regarding last weeks question (on spinning out on 53/11) - my preferred cadence is around 60 - or rather, I prefer do to 6-8w per rpm (and trying to stay above 300w). I *definitely* do not fly around above 50km/h all the time. I only do 90rpm for shorter sprints/uphills (at 6-700w).
Do you have a different definition of 'spinning out' than us? 60rpm at 53-11 is utterly ridiculous to consider as 'spinning'. This is Grinding, surely?
But, genuinely interested in finding out the issue here???
@@chrisjepson8071 Spinning out as in not being able to pedal fast enough without compromising power - if I go at e.g. 55 km/h, I have to go at 90rpm, and I just can't maintain that for long, at least not with the power output I want.
I'm not an expert but if you have the feeling of Spinning out at 90rpm you should work on your cadence rather than changing something on the bike.
Please do it before trying crazy stuff like Zwift or any training app where 90rpm is considered not as high.
@@jankroken3881 If thats the problem then you need to ride up hills
@@ManuelMartinez09 I do have issues with zwift yes :( - had to turn off ergmode - if I slacked a bit uphills, it ended up more or less locking up
#askgcntech Hi, Just switched my tires to tubeless and was wondering if you need to put the valve cap on the valves? With inner tubes I always threw them away but not sure if it’s different for tubeless valves. Thanks!
You're free to leave them be if you wish, but high-end tubeless valves usually come with nice valve caps anyway.
#AskGCNTech Im running Grand Prix 5000 Clincher Tires only 2 months old after a service I noticed a number of holes which have been filled with sealent. My question is how long would the sealent hold before I need to change tires ?
Basically until the tyre fails to seal a hole. Then change the tyre.
sealant*
#AskGCNTech Hi all. I want to change my 11-32 cassette to a 11-34 one. I am running 50/34 at the front. Should I also change my chain due to a larger cog, or is the difference minimal and I can change the chain later?
As long as the chain can shift into large-large without straining the rear derailleur and the chain itself too much, it can stay.
But it's good practice to not cross-chain when you ride anyway.
Hi everyone! I've had an aluminum gravel bike for years now. I'm thinking about upgrading to a carbon frame in the next couple of years, but I'm worried about rocks flying up and damaging the frame. But it seems like loads of people ride carbon frames without worrying about them breaking. I've always heard you should only ride what you can afford to replace. Am I too worried? Thanks!
#AskGCNTech
Get an Ergon CF3 and you‘re in heaven.
It makes a very big change for comfort. Never anything else.
i think Jan Kroken should put his chain back on. that would solve the spinning problem
#AskGCNTech Is it possible to straighten a bent Shimano Ultegra chainring?
Who runs at max psi? If the tyre is rated at 100, you should be running 80 anyway and then pay attention to your wheel rating as well. You're less likely to pop a tyre, get better rolling resistance, and more comfortable ride
#ASKGCNTECK I sweat a lot and know I need sun screen on face but it always seems to get in my eyes. Is there a sun screen that is eye friendly?
I have the same problem in the summer. Not a direct solution but I wear one of those tennis wrist towel thingies so I can wipe my brow / eyes before getting stingy eyes. Not foolproof but potentially useful.
wear a head band or a hat. . You can't stop the sweat coming from above your hair line with an antiperspirant.
Living in Australia, sunscreen is a must. However, wearing a cycling cap under my helmet and decent glasses means that I only need to apply sunscreen on my nose and cheeks so it never gets in my eyes. Give that a go mate.
There’s a product just for this a d it’s called Veo Strip. It works well. It is basically a well -chosen piece of rubber gasket or seal with a good adhesive, that acts as a rain gutter for your eyebrows and forehead, channeling off sweat to the side of your face. Looks a big weird but with helmet and glasses no one will notice!
@@matthewvelo That's my solution, too. No need for sunscreen above the eyes.
#AskGCNTech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked a couple of weeks ago by another viewer; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
#AskGCNTech I'm riding a Triban 520 (the black-and-white one) with a Sora groupset and it came with a 12-25 "SunRace" cassette. Is it worth the extra money to upgrade to a Shimano 11-28 cassette to have a little easier time in climbs and faster descents, while also taking advantage of the "HyperGlide" tech that the rear derailleur supposedly have?
Yes 😀
If it's within the capacity of the rear derailleur and depending on the climbs you have, I'd go for a lowest gear that's even lower. The disadvantage is that the steps between other gears will get bigger.
@@jochenkraus7016 It's a RD-R3000 (SS I think). According to Shimano's website, it can go up to 32T, but I don't understand what's this "Max. front difference: 16T" they state. Up front I run the default 30-39-50 triple crankset that came with it.
@@rhobson Maybe I'm misinterpreting the specs, but according to the information I found it should be a long one for your crank (20 teeth in front, 43 in total). 16 teeth in front sounds much like they had 50/34 in mind.
As far as i know you can combine road, trekking and MTB parts up to 9x. M310 has 22 teeth in front and 45 in total.
#askgcntech
Hello all!
I currently ride on GP5000 TLR and they are all worn out. I am planning to purchase GP5000s TLR. My LBS says that due to delayed shipping, they "MIGHT" get the new tires by July. What are the dangers and some drawbacks of riding tires that all worn out? Thanks!
When the GP5000 TL wear indicators are gone, the rubber is paper thin and some cords are starting to show. Once the cords show, the traction is seriously compromised (you risk sliding out on corners) and they have much less protection against punctures or blowouts.
Yes
#AskGCNTech Hey guys, can I still call myself a vegetarian/vegan if I forget to close my mouth when commuting by a canal in the spring? 🪰🪰🪰🪰🪰😮
#AskGCNTech Hi Guys, I've just got myself a nice shiny new bike, it has road boost spacing, do you know of any way of running an off the shelf Wheelset with standard road spacing in a boost frame. Are there any adaptors that you are aware of that I can buy? I would like to be able to share wheels between multiple bikes ideally. Thanks Rob
It is fun to imagine how the 53x11 comment could make sense. Is it a travel bike with tiny wheels? That even wouldn't make sense, maybe if its really 53x12 AND a travel bike, heh
#AskGCNTech Hi Alex, Manon and Oli. We know latex tubes are lighter and have lower rolling resistance. We also know they deflate quicker than normal tubes. If I’m doing a century ride riding for 6-8 hours, should I be worried about pumping tires mid ride? How much PSI will I lose over the course of the ride? Is it worth the risk? Thanks!
why don't you just mesure it yourself with your tire and true variabels instead of outsourcing the risk management deparement to gcn?
I rode a 400k recently without any issue on latex tubes. I'd be more concerned once you go into multi-day events >24h.
#AskGCNTech does putting training wheels and mountain bike tyres really does make u faster
#AskGCNTech #Lube If using was-based lubes is clearly superior in terms of rolling resistance and maintenance, why isn't the cycling industry adopting this more? Is it just a case of tradition and slow evolution (such as disk brakes and tubeless tires) or any there any major disadvantages I should be aware of before switching?
Waxing chains has been around for decades (I started waxing my chains in the 80's). The major drawback is the extra work involved vs drip lubes and most people don't think the benefits are worth the extra work. Even I gave it up when I went to 11 speeds and the quick links were single use only.
@@jefferycampbell2243 Surely wax-based drip lubes offer a solution to this to maintain the chain after doing an immersion only for the first time?