How to Patch a Drywall Hole | Ask This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- In this video, Ask This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows host Kevin O’Connor how to patch holes in drywall, covering holes of all shapes and sizes.
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Tom Silva and Kevin O’Connor meet at the shop to discuss patching holes in drywall, noting that almost every homeowner will deal with this issue at some point. Tom shows Kevin some of the most common ways he likes to patch these holes, including using tape, metal-reinforced patches, and a few types of custom-cut patches.
Estimated time: 1 hour plus drying time
Cost: Under $20
Skill Level: Easy to moderate
Shopping list:
Spackling compound [amzn.to/3DzhBWP] or joint compound [amzn.to/3ayScA1]
Extra strength mesh drywall joint tape [amzn.to/2YIP16J]
Self adhesive wall repair patch [amzn.to/3DzF0Hy]
Scrap piece of drywall [thd.co/3v6Dqd8]
Scrap piece of wood [thd.co/3pPIhMr]
Drywall repair clips [amzn.to/3AOFbx7]
Tools:
Putty knife [amzn.to/3aATL0d]
Drywall knife [amzn.to/2YIFahb]
Sandpaper [amzn.to/30nX2hL]
Where to find it?
Tommy explains how to patch different size holes in drywall.
To patch a small hole, he suggests using a spackling compound along with a putty [amzn.to/3aATL0d] or drywall knife [amzn.to/2YIFahb]. Sand the hole after applying a few thin layers and allowing for drying time.
To patch a medium-size hole, Tom suggests using either heavy duty mesh drywall joint tape [amzn.to/2YIP16J] or a drywall self-adhesive wall repair patch [amzn.to/3DzF0Hy], which come in a variety of different sizes, like 4”x4”, 6”x6” and 8”x8”. Cover the tape or patch with spackling compound using a putty or drywall knife, and sand down after applying a few thin layers and allowing for drying time.
For large holes, Tom suggests cutting a patch from a stock sheet of drywall [thd.co/3v6Dqd8]. You can anchor the patch to the wall in one of three ways: using a scrap piece of wood, using drywall repair clips [amzn.to/3AOFbx7], or by leaving the paper backer on the drywall. Cover the tape or patch with spackling compound or joint compound [amzn.to/3ayScA1] (for larger holes) using a putty or drywall knife, and sand down [amzn.to/30nX2hL] after applying a few thin layers and allowing for drying time.
All materials can be sourced at a home center.
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From the makers of This Old House, America’s first and most trusted home improvement show, Ask This Old House answers the steady stream of home improvement questions asked by viewers across the United States. Covering topics from landscaping to electrical to HVAC and plumbing to painting and more. Ask This Old House features the experts from This Old House, including general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, landscape contractor Jenn Nawada, master carpenter Norm Abram, and host Kevin O’Connor. Ask This Old House helps you protect and preserve your greatest investment-your home.
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How to Patch a Drywall Hole | Ask This Old House
/ thisoldhouse
you dont hammer those tabs on the clips, you can just break them off by hand after you put the drywall in.
That makes way more sense. I thought if you hammered them you would just push them into the drywall.
@@kyleknott1097here's how they actually work. ruclips.net/user/shortsXYLIFoEqamk?feature=share
So if you do that then wtf keeps the drywall from falling tf back into the hole because you just broke off the only think keeping it from falling
@@richardgrace5043 You screw them in then break the tabs off
@@JustinL614 ok... never saw those before but from way he did it looked like the clips were what held the whole thing onto the wall is probably why he was talking about hammering them in because he wasn't planning on screwing anything (probably like me has never used them before or really ever heard of them)
For someone that had to patch a lot of holes as a new homeowner, here's what has worked for me:
First, buy a 10 inch metal drywall knife and a pan. You'll get better results. Cheap drywall jab saw helps speed things up too vs having to use a box cutter to cut your holes.
I did one patch with that metal patch they showed, spackle, and plastic knife and it looks terrible. Very noticeable.
I now use Plus 3 joint compound in the bucket. I water it down slightly in my pan so it will slightly run off my knife if I pick it up and hold it vertical.
Like they said, cut your patch bigger than the hole and trace the patch onto the existing wall and cut that out.
For your backer board, use plywood and not lumber strips. Lumber will split.
I used mesh tape and did not overlap any of the tape onto each other.
Feather it out further than you think you need to. I did at least the width of the knife on all sides. Check VancouverCarpenter's channel on how to feather your edge.
2 coats typically did the trick for me with light sanding with a sanding sponge.
Addition top when painting. Take a small amount of primer and leave it out in a small disposable container so it thickens up a bit (don't let it dry out or film over). Then brush it on a little thicker than you normally would, take a sponge or paper towel and dab the area you just painted with primer to replicate the rest of the walls roller texture. Then when you paint the area it will blend in with the existing wall's paint texture much better.
I owe thousands of dollars to VancouverCarpenter. So goood!!
That last patch is what I was taught to be called a California Patch. Awesome way to patch holes.
The secret is to use P90 or plaster-based mud for the initial coat. Then use regular drywall mud or spackling after it dries. The P90 is hard as rock.
Those clips he used on the bigger hole instead of pounding those down I'm pretty sure those 4 tabs are made to just bend back and snap off. No pounding them down with a hammer.
Correct and your run to screw through it as well one on the wall side and one on the patch side of each clip. That's what holds them in place after you break off the tabs
@@JimDean002 ok cool I wasn't crazy. Thank you for clearing that up.
I was just waiting for the last one. My father taught it to me when we were doing brownstone rehabs in The Bronx. The rest is normal stuff. Also, spackling compound has a plaster like chemical to let it dry faster. Also, with that last patching method, fill the interior of the patch to keep it from moving.
They would call that "buttering the edges" so the center of the patch wont shift in the hole.
@@rupe53 That's really only if you make the hole way too big. Otherwise the weight of the patch is sitting on the bottom part of the cut. If that is level it's not going to drift unless someone touches it.
@@JustinL614 ... the likelihood of someone touching it will be roughly the same as how the hole got there in the first place. Vacuum, broom, toys, etc. If the center block isn't tight it could crack from someone slamming the door. As long as the supplies are out you might as well make it sturdy. It wont take maybe another 10 seconds to butter it up.
@@rupe53 True but if it's in an area where someone is going to touch it I wouldn't you screw it to a piece of wood behind it? Or is the patch strong enough with the buttering? I can see your point about the door though.
@@JustinL614 ... I was only answering the other guy's post. Personally I do a piece of wood as a backer with screws. Takes longer but is way stronger.
For the final method it's best to put some joint compound around the edges of the drywall patch so that it doesn't wiggle around in the hole.
It won't wiggle if you make a good cut. Even if you make a bad cut who is going to touch it?
100%! If you don’t put some mud around the corners, you’d get blisters.
Unless your cut is perfect.
I agree, it would make a stronger patch.
Light glare shows on recessed or ‘proud’ surface patches. I prefer to create a ‘lath’ of plywood or pain stirrers, screw behind hole, use a sheetrock patch stripped of its backside kraft paper, then set into opening and build up patch surface until flush to wall surface.
Not if done correctly. The bigger the hole, the more feathering of joint compound is required to finish.
Piece of drywall as backing works well for the old fashioned method 👍
A correction should be issued by the producer of this video on the Insta -Back drywall backing. Clips are not hammered back in to the gypsum board, thus causing additional damage, they are removed after fasteners have been attached. Followed by taping of the joints.
I agree . You cannot flatten them. Those two holders have a weak point, once you attach the drywall piece, you start bending them up and down and they will break
How do you remove the clips after the drywal patch is fastened over them w/o damaging the drywall?
@@yZeCounselat that point you tear it out and start over 🎉
California patch Canadian patch. My drywall guy calls it a hat patch because of the profile of the section. He also says it’s not really flat but it’s the illusion of flat. I’ve had to feather the back of casing with a block plane to get it to lay down near a corner because of the mud ramp.
@2:57 the piece of wood in the hole is best of all these. It’s the strongest and the drywall is flush.
I was hoping the video would continue showing how to texturize the surface after patching.
Exactly! The patch area will be obvious because it will be smooth compared to the rest of the wall.
When patching walls, I forgo the spackling compound and use some 20 minute fast set joint compound. Other than that, TOH did a pretty good job providing basic options. Everyone does it a little differently and the purpose of these videos is just to point people in the right direction.
What do you like about the 20 minute fast joint compound?
@@JustinL614 It is designed for drywall repair and is more durable and harder when it sets up. It takes paint well and sets up quick enabling you to apply 2nd or 3 coats within the same day. For a professional , time is money. It can be purchased in 20, 30, 45 etc. min set times, depending on specific needs. Spackling compound is sets softer and good for filling nail holes. Just my opinion.
@@michaele1201 5, 20, 45, 90, and 120. But I'm with you. I prefer the 20 min hot mud for patching.
That's how I've done so many patches but i worked with dry wall for over 18 years and worked in construction for 34 years before my lower back got so bad that i had to be put on disability a year ago
I like the men and women of this show....very very skilled ...knowledgeable and personable.....absolutely awesome.....
You absolutely do NOT hammer the tabs on the metal brackets. They are scored and once you screw the bracket down you just use pliers and rip the tabs out.
I was going to comment this..He also didn't add enough compound on the last patch either..These guys are goobers!
california patch is the most time consuming but definitely the smoothest fit!
Wrong.
Whatever the guy with the white hair says you do it. He's the best. I've watched him for many years. He's never wrong.👍
Be careful, it is hard to hide those patches the way he did it. The metal mess is very hard to hide and not have a hump where it is. Best thing, cut an insert, put a wooden board behind the hole then fill in with compound.
Basically the same way I would fix it is using a small wooden board behind the wall
I also don't like these. I did one and it looks awful.
Patching is one thing. Having to repaint the entire wall afterwards is another matter 😭
There's a technique professional painters use to blend it.
@@JustinL614 stippling?
@@ilovecomputers To be honest I'm not sure. All I know is that I can't do it perfectly but my painter is like a magician when it comes to making patches disappear lol.
Use a lightly damp sponge and go from the new, wet paint area outward decreasing pressure as you blend outward into the older paint. I've also used a damp brush with but prefer the sponge since it's a softer blend.
Botched many drywall holes so thanks for the tips.
Personally, I prefer paper tape. I have always sanded into mesh tape requiring additional coats.
Yea TOMMY is confusing that particular drywall clip with the claw which is very similar,and you do leave the tabs on and drive/and/or push them into wall board.The particular one in video you do break the tabs off.
I also recommend a six-inch taping knife for the homeowner.
Two inch is also useful. Dollar tree has them in a few sizes but not 6 inch I believe. Good and cheap for scraping stuff
@@geeyoupee I find it easier to spread over a hole with a 6 inch.
At least 6. I would even say 10. Metal only, not the plastic ones either.
Why don’t they ever show the final result? Anyone can leave their wall unfinished.
That's what I was going to say. I literally always get to this point and just paint because nobody ever shows after that. How do I create the texture. The spray cans don't work...
I've been a fan of these guys since I was little. As a 21 year drywall professional, Its hard for me to watch these guys tell you how to really mess things up.
I love Tom's Patch,.... makes more sense!!
It's called a, "California" patch.
@@TheRoninkai I don't think he is talking about the drywall...
In your last patch with the cut out piece and paper drywall, you only put compounds on the outer perimeter of the hole. I would have put compound on all the 4 edges of the drywall, so that the cut out piece would be actually fixed to the drywall, not just by the paper covered with compound. For such a large pair, that will remain a precariously weak spot. Was truly, David, from Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
Thanks for putting this video together on the different size holes to repair drywall holes. Super helpful with ahouse full of boys.
I've got a house full of men who sometimes get into fights with each other. Had some pretty large holes from heads going through walls over the years.
When Tommy was doing the California patch, I noticed that he mudded the perimiter of the hole only. Wasn't he supposed to also put mud on the inside edges of both the hole and the new drywall? I'd swear I was taught to do that.
A lot of teenagers learn these tricks after punching a hole in anger.
I have done "wood behind the hole" and I find it MUCH better in the long run. It's cheap, easy, and sturdy. For those who have limited supplies you can fill most any hole with crumpled newspaper and / or Great Stuff foam, then top coat as necessary. Auto body filler will do the job quick (dries hard in 20 minutes) but doesn't sand the same and joint compound does not stick to it very well. Better off using plaster of Paris to start with (dries hard in under an hour) and top coat with compound or spackle. Back it up with crumped paper in the wall cavity or even a piece of cardboard.
Definitely the strongest patch I've seen.
Sadly had to scroll pretty far for the Great Stuff! patch backing. Works so well when patching and filling plaster.
I love the condescending hostility between these two.
You’re projecting. your own bitterness is ascribing characteristics that aren’t there.
@@aaqilian5.085 Sounds like you speak from experience there buddy. I'm just making a comment about how they have some hostility, which is NORMAL. Maybe you should speak to someone if you feel that uncomfortable that people don't always get along.
That last patch won’t work if somebody leans on the patch after it’s done. It’ll just bust right through with a little bit of force.
On the last patch, you should put a little spackle along the inside edges of the hole to help anchor the patch piece, otherwise it’s gonna flex when pressed. You probably should have shown an example of a patch that might be load handling like for a bathroom towel bar.
I thought this one was when Tommy punched the drywall😂😂
As a new homeowner, I have a feeling this channel is going to be a "workhorse" for me, lol
Those tabs actually break off. You're also supposed to put a screw in the existing drywall to hold them in place. Surprised Tommy doesn't know that.
Prob the tv producer told them to demo all these options for the segment. Usually people have one way of doing things like this so it doesn't surprise me he wasn't familiar with those clips.
@@Mr.Pop0 Agreed. Those clips add costs to a job and he's probably been doing it for a long time the old school way. I've never seen those clips until now.
@@Mr.Pop0 you said the same thing. 🙄
You don’t hammer the ears on that metal bit. Those little ears come off after you move them back and forth a few times. They metal fatigue and snap.
I have the only dual system to patch or anchor
For patching my system finishes flush with original finish less mess no need to cut out a huge amount of drywall.
Faster easier less costly better end results from 1” to even build an entire wall.
The anchor system is so strong you can’t pull the anchor out of the wall with a hammer or pry bar and can support 200 or more pounds 3/16 1/4 1/2 3/4 1” or larger
So where is your video that shows your system.
It’s a little disappointing that Tom didn’t do the California patch (last one) quite right. You’re supposed to mud the edges of the patch to fill the void when the patch is pressed in.
Would of been nice to see how to feather the spackle
The problem as I see it is that for the larger hole there needs to be some sort of reinforcing behind the hole otherwise at some later date someone is going to put their hand through it.
Why does everyone spread the speackling out such a large perimeter instead of just putting it in the hole?
I wish they would do a vid with textured drywall. Patching a hole is easy. Matching texture, not so. 99% of track homes have textured drywall.
TOH is New England, where texture isn’t as common
The olde timer has done it the olde skool way for decades, so not surprising he did not know about the new and likely pricey clip method, I am born & raised in the UK, occupation as an Engineer (E&E) also doubling up as a electrician, live and worked in North America on and off since 2012, Used to olde skool plastering, browning etc, drywall aka plaster board, so when I patch up residential aka domestic dry wall in North America, not often, I just use a dab or wood backing and a patch with light buttering, then I am gone, no painting if I can help it, lol, when painting it is worth pre wetting the new patch, with the surrounding area very lightly, allow some time to bed in then paint in different directions, then one way, hard on the patch then a large area lighter outwards, painting I have been told is almost all prep then just the job itself,never ever rush the prep, never,
I love this, the less experienced guy loves this….
Great informative video. Much appreciated.
The patch should use compound on both sides where it can harden to the wall stronger.
Just what the internet was missing! I wonder why no one has ever before shared a video of a dry wall repair
Well explained. Thank you!
Now if only you could patch things up with Bob.
Yeah that was totally wrong they ( the metal clips ) are made to snap off
Tommy the wise one.
Except when it comes to what to do with the metal tabs
Idk that last method seemed a little sketchy. You bump into that even a little it’s gonna break. Maybe on a ceiling or really high part of a wall
For a smallish patch, it actually works well... the thing is though, as several people on this thread noted you should really put compound on the inside edge of the patch so that it creates a glue effect between the old wall and the patch. That helps short it up in terms of strength. Also, you need to realize that you are usually putting at least 3 layers of compound over top of it which is spread out a fair distance around the actual patch by the time you're finished. So there is more rigidity in it than you think. Anything bigger, definitely put some boards that span the joint behind it and screw it/tape it normally.
What about the texture? You can't just fill it with spackle as it would look horrible.
I love this channel.
Thanks for sharing
If your spackling compound is a little too dry, the just as some spackling water to it, as tommy would say.😂🤣
No one on you tube has done the best patch method yet for 6-7 inch or smaller patches when not using wood backing , might have to do a demo video ,
Waiting
@@brianhoulahan3507 Utube wont pay me anything so i guess thats where it ends .
Very helpful😀
The best of the best, thanks
How to blend a patch with a textured wall?
check out mr jalapeño solutions. he does a lot of textured repairs :)
Good to know! Great video
What about patches for textured walls?
Think it's the same process but you add texture at the end?
that would be the same patch but you'd need to come up with a way to match the texture. Obviously you'd need to make a smooth area around the hole for the patch itself to adhere, then match texture afterward. Most textures are "flung from a brush" done with a dry sponge, or stippled with the end of a small brush. whisk broom might work well here. There are variations that can be done with a trowel as well. You have to study the surface to see how it was originally made.
Nice 👍
Its ok guys, you can say this is how you fix the hole you punched in your wall :)
Good luck getting any of those to truly be invisible, patching drywall perfectly takes a lot of practice and none of the shortcuts shown here will look right. Also spackle is junk, it's only ok for nail holes, if you clean off the excess before it dries.
great job good vid
Touch-up nail holes .. going from simple dabbing touch-up paint to having to repaint the entire wall .. after slapping on compound everywhere .. no!
The paper edge patch you forgot to drywall in the edges of the hole before putting in that patch. So the slightest bump and you would tear the paper which is the only thing holding the floating patch in place.. No, the first method with the wood and using drywall screws is by far the best method, it will be about as strong as the original.
Would this work to patch an exterior door that had one of those small pet entry doors (but no longer need it) ?
You could do something similar using fiberglass. You couldn't use this because it's not weather resistant. Long-term balls joint compound and spackle would break down if exposed to the elements.
You can buy a fiberglass repair kit on Amazon for about 20 bucks. But working with fiberglass resin takes experience so I would buy two and find something to practice on. Whatever you do you're going to need some backing inside that hole which is going to complicate things.
I did one of those, though I had installed the pet door myself and kept the rectangle of wood that I had removed. If you don't have that, cut same thickness wood to make a plug.
I got some thin pieces of wood as supports and screwed the supports to the wood plug and door. Then I used paintable caulk to fill the space around the plug, but not putting in so much it was even with the door, I left it underfilled. Once set, I removed the support pieces and filled it in the rest of the way with spackle. Sanded, painted, blended. You never knew there was a pet door there!
----
Just move furniture in front of it. Work smarter, not harder.
Except for mice.
🤣🤣
Just make sure you put protect your cahhh-pet with a towel on the ground.
what's holding up this old house spackle 🤣
Bro said you can do 3 different ways and then didn’t show them. Screwing wood behind drywall looked interesting but I don’t think it would be that smooth, also thinking that’s why he didn’t do it lol
Metal tools do a better job. Worth the investment if you're doing this a bunch.
As someone who hasn't done drywall repair, I think it's very confusing that there are so many options and opinions on how to patch drywall. I just don't want to do it wrong
If you do it and you can't see the hole or the patch when it's painted, then you did it right. Doesn't matter how you get there, which technique, or patch method.
Love you guys but not one of your better videos.
That old dude's redheaded stepson is CLUELESS about EVERYTHING in EVERY video!
That's his job to act clueless.
The ginger
I miss the Norm guy
The 2nd hole was a bad way of patching
Terrible California patch job… 🤦♂️
Looking at your pic, you’d cry if some mud got on your hands 🤣
What could he have improved? It's just hole in the wall it's not crown molding lol
@john, profile pics can be deceiving lol
@justin, good question.
1. Paper around the patch is not cleaned. You want to shave off chunks of drywall from the paper. Otherwise it will take a lot of mud to smooth it out.
2. He only put mud around the perimeter, but not in the corners of the patch on the back side of it. This will result in blisters and cracks around the patch if you touch it. You’ll 100% get blisters in the gaps around the patch where there’s no mud.
@@MichaelBurko ha yeah ok.
Patched
Hi
👍☺☺
Is Tommy loosing weight? He looks a little thinner...
Losing. Geez.
Another half-baked video
They getting lazy not showing the most important steps
The more I watch the more I know you guys don't really know much.
Where is your version of the video.
If you're smart, you'll ignore these guy's they have no clue
stick to carpentry your not a mud man
#youtube.ong
thrilling
I don’t like Tommy
I cant stand the other guy. He is creepy and is orange. KEEP HIM
thats pretty hateful
You got the job you start tomorrow we will see the quality of your performance... Kevin is doing a great job... Go take a walk... 🤣
@@XXMETAL4LIF3XX i changed my comment. But he is super creepy
@@Van-..-z._-_z.-._-._.-z. LOL