I've got this in my shopping cart.. cant wait to get it ordered.. Im so tired of 4.5" or 6" cut off wheels, torching, when I can use one of these instead and not have the work piece heat up.
Just ordered mine. You could quickset glue a skinny block to that saw guide to cover the gap yet still give you a flat reference edge. You could then use the saw guide on the sheet metal. I’ve got to cut a bunch and that’s what I’ll do.
I figured your a true working guy doing this review , ya know how i thought that , your gloves are just like mine!! My left hand glove is always burnt up and the right hand gloves are always in way better shape, I think it's from holding stuff with the left while tacking it and the right is usually holding the mig gun or electrode holder
I could definitely use this tool. I spend so much time cutting with an angle grinder then I have to grind the wavy gravy out....and it's still not straight.
Yeah it’s original design is from a circular saw for wood and even in wood working I put a piece of hardwood on the edge guide. It give a much better reference surface and if you make it long enough in front and to the rear of the guide you avoid wandering off your cut line when you start or finish your cut. It doesn’t need to be super long though.
I've learned the amount of blade showing below whatever material being cut should be around 1/4 in. This helps with possible kick back, steel is less forgiving than wood.
@@DerekConwayTX cutting wood and cutting steel isn’t the same. Easy to cut straight with wood, but it’s another story with steel sheets. That guide is silly anyways, it’s best to use a straight edge guide like some flat stock otherwise you won’t have a perfectly straight edge on a long run.
The build looks cheap compared to s Skilsaw. When the motor coasts to a stop, it sounds like it has bad bearings. Thinking about buying the saw and I'm trying to talk myself into it against what I see and hear.
I've got this in my shopping cart.. cant wait to get it ordered.. Im so tired of 4.5" or 6" cut off wheels, torching, when I can use one of these instead and not have the work piece heat up.
08:30 "Look at that.." proceeds to cross the cameras eyes 🤣
Just order mine can't wait for it!!! Great review straight to the f point !!
You gonna love it!
Just ordered mine.
You could quickset glue a skinny block to that saw guide to cover the gap yet still give you a flat reference edge. You could then use the saw guide on the sheet metal. I’ve got to cut a bunch and that’s what I’ll do.
Nice idea!!
I always find it funny how you just throw the crap out of everything! Great review!
Hahaha THANK YOU!
I figured your a true working guy doing this review , ya know how i thought that , your gloves are just like mine!! My left hand glove is always burnt up and the right hand gloves are always in way better shape, I think it's from holding stuff with the left while tacking it and the right is usually holding the mig gun or electrode holder
True. Never trust a guy with clean gloves hahaha
Think I can cut up a travel trailer frame with this?
@@1callicoon You can if the saw will reach all the cuts
How do you think this saw would do cutting say 16 and or 18 gauge metal standing seam roof panels?
Wouldn't recommend that, I think this type of saw should stay flat.
I could definitely use this tool. I spend so much time cutting with an angle grinder then I have to grind the wavy gravy out....and it's still not straight.
You can use my discount code in the description box bud!
I noticed that the guide has 2 holes. You can screw a piece of hardwood to it, or make something from metal to use it better.
GREAT IDEA!! Didn't even think of that!
Yeah it’s original design is from a circular saw for wood and even in wood working I put a piece of hardwood on the edge guide. It give a much better reference surface and if you make it long enough in front and to the rear of the guide you avoid wandering off your cut line when you start or finish your cut. It doesn’t need to be super long though.
@@ronh9384 Fantastic ideas fellas. Definitly doing this!
what is the ideal amount of stickout below the metal plate?
I've learned the amount of blade showing below whatever material being cut should be around 1/4 in. This helps with possible kick back, steel is less forgiving than wood.
Great review DC!
THANKS TODD!
Excellent review 👍
Thankyou DC!
Appreciate that B!!
Nice. Be cool afford something like that on my budget. Cool.
Use my discount code save some green bud! In the description.
Nice, Brother you need someone to send you GLOVES to do a review!!!!
Haha YES. Id just get hols in them too and keep them for months before throwing away haha
Bend the guide curve to bring the guide up.
But you probably cut straight enough anyway, I don't use those guides either.
Truth be told, I don't use them on my Wood circ saws either...
@@DerekConwayTX cutting wood and cutting steel isn’t the same. Easy to cut straight with wood, but it’s another story with steel sheets. That guide is silly anyways, it’s best to use a straight edge guide like some flat stock otherwise you won’t have a perfectly straight edge on a long run.
If you can't follow a straight line, and it needs to be perfect, clamp down a straight edge and let er rip. Those guides are useless.
why cant I just buy a steel blade for my skill saw and save $150 plus???
RPM. Higher rpm on wood saws are bad news with steel blades. Dont do it.
The build looks cheap compared to s Skilsaw. When the motor coasts to a stop, it sounds like it has bad bearings. Thinking about buying the saw and I'm trying to talk myself into it against what I see and hear.
First
Haha you might also be the first to comment when they're first!! Thanks for that!!
Yeah we need a review about how it holds up after few years, not right out of the box. Waste of time
I'll do a follow up in a few months. Not sure why it wouldn't hold up as long as a good blade stays on it and it's not misused...