Repairing and/or Replacing Dodge Valve Stem Seals On A 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 Litre Engine
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- How to repair valve guide seals and/or replace them with the cylinder head on for a 98 Dakota. This will work on all of them though in the video I was working on a Dakota.Repairing and/or Replacing Dodge Valve Stem Seals On A 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 Litre Engine
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There is a set of pliers I got at O'Reilly's with a loop at the end...worked perfect on my 4.7l...it grabs almost perfect around the seals.
Definately kudos for not editing the video to seem like your some super human badass. I will say though if it takes you 10 minutes with the parts already exposed its certainly gonna be 10x longer for the DIY mechanic. Expectations should be that somethings gonna go horribly wrong anyways because hell, we’re a DIY mechanic, but still. Hell I’d be happy if this job only took me an hour.
I appreciate you not editing out the struggle. learned a lot more this way and now i'm more prepared for hiccups when i do this tomorrow.
+Blaine Stragier Yes my brother..lol!! Its ALWAYS a struggle. Let me know how its going for you so far.
The old seal is bent because you crushed it with your pliers.
Dayton Corl God I thought I was the only one who saw that😑
👍
How would you pull it off without bending it? Looking for some guidance gonna do this on my 99 Dakota cc RT
Cool. I need to do this on my 5.2..Ive rebuilt many heads but always on my bench.
use the lever bar compressor that attaches to the head where the rocker stud screws.just pull it to you and bam! Quick work mate!
My 97 5.2 has 333k on it. I have kept up on all maintance outside of removing the heads from the block. I get pre-ignition kicks every once and a awhile since 200k. I just found out valve seals could cause this by allowing crankcase oil into the combustion chamber or so ive heard. I should probably change them!
did you?
I need to replace some lifters....in my dodge 3.9L v6........can the lifters be replaced at the same as the valve stem seals time without removing the manifold.....and is there anything else (cheap parts worth replacing) you would replace while having stuff tore down ???
There’s a video of a guy who made a press out of $3 c clamps he weld it to a steel plate and screw it to the heads wholes and then put another plate on top of the springs and that way he press them down easily both ways to take the seal and to put it on, I was just saying I case someone wants to do it
I use a little bit of that super sticky lube that comes with polyurethane bushings to hold the keepers down.
JamieJones TheCarMAn thank you for the video, I have a dodge ram 2003 3.6, I was wondering what the tool is you use to push down the valve springs. Do you have a part number of that tool or a link to where I can find it?
That's what I'm trying to find out
thx for the refresher.
ok men
muito obrigado pela dica
Nice. I could be wrong but that lookslike the 3.9 ltr like what I have. This is my 1st mopar since the 79 Volarie I had when I was 15. Any tricks on changing out the cap & rotor? I can barely see the top of the cap to put all the wires on.
what year make and model are you working with
do you have to add the compressed air?
no you can feed some string into the cylinder and bring the piston up as far as it will go. The string will do the same
Don't know the "string" method but if the valve falls into the cylinder, your pulling the head off. If you don't understand what I'm talking about don't attempt the job
Symptoms?
were you using a lot of oil? i have a 5.2 2000 ram and it doesn't really smoke but uses about a quart of oil every 300 miles. I was debating doing valve stem seals. Motor has 217,000 miles on it
My 5.2 is using 1 quart every 100 miles and only one plug is coated in oil. I'm going this exact job right now except of course the cylinder I need to do is the rear most passenger side
@@reecestephens5853 ur doing valve stem seals? Id do them all while ur in there. I did mine finally and they all where "whored" out a lot. no wonder it was using so much oil
😂doesn't that look like it is bent... channel lock Charlie😮
How much air pressure should be run?
20 is fine
What is the adapter you use to put air in the chamber?
They have them at O’Reilly just tell him what you’re up to you they’ll give you one
Are you thinking that because you have a noise , a tick so to say at the top of engine
You say the car had a misfire due to the valve guide seals?
+michaelheiland123654 Yes, thats correct. The oil was getting through and fouling out the spark plugs which caused the misfire.
I think I'm having the same problem.
Does it smoke at higher rpms
I"m trying to do the same thing to a 99 dakota, 5.2. I understand the piston is supposed to be at top dead center but every time I put air in the cylinder the piston moves down. Are you concerned about the position of the piston? How many pounds of air pressure did you use? OR what am i doing wrong? Thanks
+ed kay The best thing to do is to use a socket and rachet with a pipe to hold the crank pully at TDC. As far as air pressure, I believe it was about 70 lbs. It doesn't really take a whole lot of air pressure to hold it up and you could probably get by with something as low as 20 or 30 lbs.
ya someone has to be at the crank holding with a cheater bar....or u cab always wedge something in between the belt and pully
The old seal is bent cause you crushed it with your pliers
Hey my 5.9L Laramie is smoking a little at idle when cold but when I get higher in the rpms, it’ smokes a lot more, what’s causing this? Seals or piston rings?
Does it smoke on the highway? Let’s say cruise speed? What i’ve read is that valve seals usually smokes at a cold start or heavy traffic (idling) but when accelarating smoke should disappear if it is at all times; would say oil piston rings
Does it have to be tdc when u change them?
no ABDC...piston can move if you have it at TDC..instant drop in air pressure and valve could fall..Ive heard of old timers stuffing the cylinder with rope and doing this.
anyone have any info on the 4.7L with a top end knock ? what it could be
i believe its collapsed lifters and/or springs i hope its not the springs im tearing into it on friday.
its not rod knock i had no knock at the bottom end just at the top i even did the screw driver to ear test just to be sure and there was no knocking at the bottom end
someone told me that it could be failed rocker arms ? could that be a possibility?
forgot to mention/ vehicle sat for well over three years or more i knew that this was a possibility of happening
Ive worked on 4.7s that would kick rocker arms off. Usually on a cold start. collapse the lifter with a screwdriver and pop it back in
Need to use yhe right tool to work on car so you don't damage any parts...
man bad valve seats and seals are very common with dodges...but damn do they run good when they are maintained and well taken care of
+Michael Rundle haha it's a love hate thing
LOL
So its a 10 min job? Not pickin on your video, but any shop is going to replace all the seals and the v/c gaskets. Your misleading people, that then think their getting ripped off. I would charge 4-5 hrs labor plus parts for this job, which is more then fair. To R/R the valve covers pays 1.5hrs. Its a $600 job at least. Running a business costs money- nobody works to break even. Profit is not a bad word. Any shop has to cover the time spent on a job, older vehicles take more time as well.. Just my 2 cents. Not all shops are out to rob you.
This video is almost 10 minutes and I've seen him work on 1!
He clearly jinxed himself the moment he bragged about how fast the repair would be.
wow your using dollar store plyers
+yevgeniy litvinov so what
I noticed that too!!! LOL 🤣
Try some 7A tweezers for putting the retainers back. They are short enough to fit almost anywhere and they curve 45 degrees at the end so you can see where you are working. They are flimsy (get the cheap ones - they tend to have a slightly heavier duty tip). These should be just the thing: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aven/18491?qs=uwxL4vQweFNKZOZw5Onc7A%3D%3D