2004 dodge Dakota 4.7l valve seal replacement.
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Just another DIYer trying to save a buck.
I hope this may save you a buck too.
I show how I did a valve seal replacement on m Dodge Dakota. After two O2 sensor failures due to a left bank valve seal leak it was time to replace the seals. Smoke out of the exhaust wasnt too bad. And of course I’m too cheap to take it to a shop so I figured I’d try to do it myself. So if you want to possibly save the money then maybe this video might just help you.
Btw, I'll also be changing out my intermediate steering shaft as I have a little play in the steering wheel. So be on the look out! Thanks.
Tools and parts used below
Crunchy San valve spring compressor:
crunchysann.com
Neiko light:
amzn.to/3PI6voW
Valve cover gasket set
Rockauto.com VS50388
Valve seals
Rockauto.com SS45909
Wrenches:
12mm (line wrench preferably)
13mm
10mm
Sockets:
10mm
13mm
5/8 spark plug
3inch and 6 inch extension
21mm (crank pully)
15mm (brake booster)
screwdrives:
flat head
small prybar
Two tent stakes
i have done much work on the 4.7l and taking the intake out is the best way to work on the valves, may as well change the lash adjusters while in there, but only with quality parts!, i understand the value of the tool for getting the valves apart, but that price is too high, also i suggest rotating the engine a full rotation before putting valve cover back on, on my durango, i take the front tires off and remove fender well cover and i can get to some of the things better
Btw, I should have said this but those are some useful tips and thank you for contributing to help others!
Will this work the same on a 2008 Durango 4.7
@@humbertogonzalez331 all the 4.7l and 3.7l engines are basically the same, after 2008 they upgraded the heads and cams on the 4.7l, (including using two spark plugs per cylinder) but the valves should be the same
To get the driver side valve cover off take out the fuel rail bolts on the driver side of the rail and lift the rail up. More than enough clearance to get the valve cover out.
....and for removing the rockers..use a 10mm open end wrench bent 45 degrees. put it in the same location you put the two rods and pull toward the cam.
Awesome! Sweet advice! Thank you for adding this!
@@hc7760 I know the video is for the stem seals but I mentioned it while thinking about when I replaced the lifters/rockers on my 4.7 last year.
Looks like pulling the fuel rail would allow for better access. I plan on replacing my injectors while I'm in there. Would you still have to pull the brake booster if you take off the fuel rail?
I thought about that pulling the fuel rail, but I didn’t have orings for them on hand. Yes I think this could circumvent pulling the brake booster. But…..
Besides the valve cover removal, With the brake booster removed allowed more access to the back rockers. If I had to do it again I’d still take off the brake booster, but it’d be the first thing I’d do! Didn’t take long to bleed and lost only brake fluid.
Also the passenger side you’ll find difficulty working around the ac box.
Can’t seem to find where in the comments, did this solve your oil burning issue?
Yes it did.
Curious, if you removed the bolts from the cover, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail, and pull the coil packs wouldn't that give you enough clearance so you don't have to remove the brake booster? I haven't done this job yet, but will be shortly. I'd like to avoid removing the brake booster and bleed the brakes etc. Thanks.
Well, it didn’t take me all that long to remove the brake booster and also bleed the brakes after. I’d say it is possible but I’d suggest to get some new orings for the fuel injectors. I didn’t have any on hand and had to get the job done that weekend
I just remember that I couldn’t get enough height to clear the valve train and the brake booster was what I kept hitting on. I was able to snake by on the passenger side with the ac box but having the rail removed there definitely would have helped
@@hc7760, Thanks for the reply. I wasn't referring to removing the entire fuel rail. I meant just remove the fuel line going to the fuel rail. The fuel line sticks out right over the valve cover. You are right that it doesn't take that long to bleed the brakes, but I'd like to avoid it if I can. I flushed my brakes only a few weeks ago. But once I get in there, if I hit the same problem now I know removing the brake booster is a viable option. It probably wouldn't have occurred to me without this video. Thanks again.
@@petrocksgarage I see. It may work, I can try and find time to look at the video I edited out during the valve cover removal to see what was hanging up and if that was part of the problem.
@@hc7760 Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video, H C! I may be doing this too very soon. Your video helps out a lot. Would you be interested in reselling your spring tool or do you think you'll be using it again?
Thanks! If you are local to Orlando then I wouldn’t mind lending it out to you if you’d like.
How did you confirm it was the valve seals? I have burning oil, blue smoke and burning oil smell which is why I am getting cat codes and some random misfires. I may try this but its alot of work if I am just throwing parts at it.
By the symptoms. On start up it would smoke and if sitting at a light it would smoke but when I was driving the highway it wouldn’t. It’s inductive but I was right. Typically, if it is constantly smoking it’s the rings. You can also do a leak down test to prove if the cylinders rings are good. If so, it would be the seals.
Valve seals are most common oil burning issue
You mentioned upon the valves not sealing, was fouling out 02 sensors or otherwise causing them to fail due to the oil or byproduct of the oil burning caused them to fail. I’m interested to know if you were able to view how the 02s reacted on scan data with the excessive presence of oil /burned oil byproduct
You mean how it was switching? Well, I didn’t really hook a scan tool up to it for this one. I had the upstream O2 sensor fail twice on the drivers side left bank. Upon removal they had the characteristics of oil contamination. Since the repair I have not had my check engine light come back on for a faulty O2 sensor and no more morning smoke on start. 🤷♂️. I’ll admit it was purely inductive reasoning that lead me to the conclusion but it seems so far to have paid off.
Do you have to rotate the engine until top dead center when working on the following ones?
@@mohamedabdi8400 yep. I go to tdc
@@hc7760what size socket did you use on the crank?
Dumb question this is the same process on 4.7 dodge ram 2005 , same principles right , thanks for the video
It should be. I know some one else mentioned they didn’t need to take off the brake booster to do undo the valve cover. I suspect there are slight differences in manual transmission vs automatic with the booster. But everything else should be the same.
All of this is required for valve cover seal change? I might have to call in an actual mechanic. I'm just a weekend shade tree kind of guy. The valve covers on my Ford van was straightforward..6 bolts on each cover, 1 gasket, in and out.
I changed the valve seals. The valve cover gasket would require a lot less. You could snake the new valve cover gasket on without removing the brake booster. Also this was on a manual transmission truck. The automatic may allow you to take valve cover off without removing brake booster.
Did you do yours with the belt still on all the pulleys
Great question. I believe I had left them on, but you probably could take it off and have an easier time cranking over to the next cylinder.
@H C ah ok thank you cause I was thinking like do I have to take the whole belt off lol thank you
where can i get that compressor?😏
The valve spring compressor? I have a link to it in my description. It’s from crunchy sann.
Does anybody have this tool that they would be willing to sell. The company is sold out and I’m currently trying to put a valve spring on a 4.7 with no luck with the tool I’m using.
Where I can buy the valve spring tool?
Just ask dad to compress the spring for you while you take out the keepers.
You do not have to pull the brake booster to get the valve cover out. Speaking from experience.
How did you get around the height of the cam bracket in the back? Did you Pull the injector rail? Clock the motor from the motor mounts? Please share so others can be informed. I wasted 3 hours trying to find the right angle only to find the height was restricted by the brake booster to get over the cam’s bracket on the back of the v8. Would rather direct people to read your insight and not waste time struggling like i did.
@@hc7760 1st off to clarify. I have an 01 QC 4wd. If there is a fitment difference between 2wd and 4wd I'm not sure. Looking under my hood. There is no more than 1 1/2 inch clearance from booster to valve cover. In my case. Say when I did a cam swap. Injector plugs, coil plugs, vacuum line from booster, vacuum line from throttle body, power steering pressure switch (may not be necessary) but gain a bit of room. After all that is out the way, I am able to roll the valve cover outward and down toward the exhaust manifold. In my specific case. Shorty headers. Which I also remove not only for room but so it doesn't get beat up.
@@DC-pv3yh Thanks!! This is informative. People have asked and I can now point them here. I didn’t remove injectors or exhaust manifolds, so maybe there is a difference? regardless this could be the trick people can try. I know removing the booster gave tons of real estate to work in as well, but the four nuts, the pin, and two brake lines can steer some away from doing it and one of the nuts was a pain to get at. I appreciate the experience and will pass it on as well!
Why did you change the spring bottom part was lifter falling off it’s the issue I’m having
Not sure what you are referring to. I changed the valve seals that are underneath spring. There was no spring bottom.
If you are speaking about the lifter, I only changed the lifters that could compress, had play, by hand. The lifters are easier to change because you do not need to remove the spring.
Let me know if this helps
@@hc7760 the issue I’m having is that I got a misfire in cylinder 8 so I opened valve cover. Once I opened it noticed that rocker arm has fallen off, so I ordered new lifter and rocker arm but when I go to put it on it’s too easy like no tension I can put it on with my hands with no effort. So I’m pretty sure it’s going to fall off again. The valve spring doesn’t looked cracked. So my question to you is you think it’s a weak valve spring & crushed valve seal. Seems like its not allowing the valve to come all the way back up. I would appreciate your help.
@@olivares32688it won’t be due to the valve seal as that is just a seal over the valve’s shaft to keep oil from entering into the cylinder.
I’d remove the lifter and inspect that.
I’d take out the spring and inspect that.
Also. Your valve may not be seating correctly. Therefore not going up all the way. So, I’d pull both rockers for the cylinder get In too dead center and do a leak down test to check for that.
In fact, take out rockers for the cylinder compare the two lifters. If ok then set up your leak down tester, if it holds good within 10% then remove spring and check spring since you have air in the cylinder holding it up. Worth a shot.
If those all check out problem most likely something else
@@hc7760 Ok thank you I’ll give that a try 👍🏻👌.
Ricardo sounds like a valve seat dropped causing the valve to not fully close
How many miles on the motor
I am around 195k. Right now think it was closer to 183k when I did this
Little young man go back to school you're way out of your league what are you doing I tell you a faster way but you're learning
Nice! Just finished school! Graduated in Dec with my second degree! First one led me to a career on boats for a decade.
You must have an uncanny sixth sense for these kind of things. Thanks for the compliment of youth. I look in the mirror and it sure don’t look it too much anymore.
@@hc7760 Ignore the haters bro, good video.
Poor vdo