One thing I try to do is make my body as a 2-piece glue up. This leaves a glue joint that can be used as a centerline. I keep tracing over it when necessary to see it better. The glue joint is usually visible after a light sanding and keeps everything consistently aligned that depends on a centerline.
I got my neck pocket slightly off of my centerline on my first build. Fortunately, I didn't have all my pickup and bridge holes cut and drilled so I was able to adjust everything and get it all to line up.
Bedankt, Hello Chris, first I would like to compliment you on what you bring to this RUclips channel of yours. I want to soon start building my first guitar as a therapeutic activity for my mental health problems. I have decided to build a guitar for myself to give my thoughts a different focus. The practical guitar building input and background information you provide here are very welcome and indispensable for me as a starting hobby builder. I am now working on collecting as many skills as possible with which I will soon be able to successfully build my first guitar. That is why I have also decided to start a 10-day basic "Guitar Building" course soon. You make a great contribution to making this process possible for me, I have made a small thank you donation to your RUclips channel as a support for even more fantastic instruction and information videos from you. Thanks Chris….I will continue to follow you closely here.
Thanks so much for the tip. I hope you are able to learn from my videos as you start your own guitar building adventure. Building guitars is a great way to calm the soul as you create an instrument that you can be proud of. Good luck!
Great points Chris. Especially the last point on testing the finish on scrap wood. Knowing how the finish reacts with exotic woods is important as is how it will look. And drilling the right sized pilot holes is very critical, even when upgrading and repairing. The only item mentioned that I don't follow, not because I disagree but just because I've always done it different, is the first point on making the fretboard to completion and the neck shaft to completion then jointing them in the final step. I find it easier to rough the neck shaft then glue the fret/finger board slab to the rough shaped shaft. It's just personal preference and I totally understand your method. Great stuff as always. Another interesting question is how much space between the edge of the string to the edge of the fretboard.
At first I thought you were referring to the 510FB, but it's the 510BN. Very interesting, but there doesn't seem to be anything on their website. However, it is available at allparts.
Throughout this vid on several points I’ve just gone wow! So much to consider. We say everything affects a guitar from pickup to oil based (Wudtone) to “nail varnish “ finish but I’ve never thought of the pickup mounting and so much more . Brilliant, thank you very much.
Great points -- especially about the finish! I actually had a case one time where I used a super high gloss acrylic lacquer that tested out ok on scrap. From that I thought it would work great, but the one thing that really didn't show up on the scrap was durability, and this particular lacquer formulation had none! Even after it cured for close to a month, within two weeks of playing time it was already wearing off, losing its luster, and showing scratching. Even setting it on a guitar stand, it would pick up imprints from the stand. Luckily this was a prototype so only my family and I were testing it, but there can definitely be some crazy variables with coatings!
I emailed a parts manufacturer earlier this week to ask what size bits they used for the pilot holes on the body I ordered so now I feel really smart. however I also have box of odds and ends parts because I tend to get a litte ahead of myself when I start a new project so I guess it's a wash.
I've become rather expert at fixing mistakes. I did a laminated neck without realizing my planer was busted and putting in a 1.5mm dip in all my wood. Had to resquare it with handtools and fill gaps in the lamination with scraps and sawdust. But it will be fine.
Bars of Paraffin wax are great for coating your screws in hardwoods. They also last forever and store well in a toolbox, without melting. Another trick for screwing into hardwoods is to get yourself a set of "Gimlets". They are hardened steel thread taps for wood. They come in all the small screw sizes and create a thread path in a pilot hole.
Wish I would have seen this before I started building. I did 4 of the 5,knew about soap on screw threads. I have done more mistakes. Lack of knowledge on fretboard radius was one of mine. Measure more than twice before cutting and drilling if you have to. Great video and having a set sequence for building is very important.
what is the most important thing to get right when building a guitar? it it the intonation from the nut to the bridge? is it the tightness of the neck pocket? just curious as i’m getting ready to do my first on my cnc machine
@@HighlineGuitars I assumed it does all go hand in hand. is there anything that you repeatedly run into that seems like it tripped you up the first few times you built a guitar ?
Experience. Anybody that doesn't have experience with materials, tools and particular object making building idiosyncrasies and steps is bound to make mistakes, even big ones. So it takes time, sometimes years . No way around it.
Thanks Chris. Agree totally with your comments. I only scratch build as a hobby and to date have not had to make the full scale drawing. Luckily for me,I am a retired Engineer so math to me is second nature. So my only comment to add is you have to be very good at math or do the full scale drawing. So far I have not had any errors! But your compare right on
I’ve been winging it all along … but I don’t build for anyone but myself. I think it’s time to build one for as a real true player and see how it goes. Great vid!
Strange as this may sound I glue whatever woods need it (3 pc neck 2 pc body etc) then the make the neck/body joint. The neck and body are joined and everything is indexed from the same point. Neck and body are shaped while attached. It seems to only work for me.
Center line!!! As you are working on your fretboard constantly measure and draw precise centerline you can. Measure, remeasure and remeasure. Even as i have checked few times i have determined wrong centerline and the taper was off on one side, so i had to fix it by making thin strip of ebony, gluing it, leveling with the rest of the fretboard, frets slot sawing....Repair took me the same time to make a whole fretboard.
I’m in the process of planning my first build and this is precisely the aspect that I’m most nervous about…do you have any tips on how to measure and/or mark your centerline? I’m worried that even the thickness of my pencil lead is going to throw everything off by .5mm or something like that
@@redfurydubstep My problem is that i had pre-radiused fretboard (which has cupped so i had to plane to and re-radius). Never again. I would first make sure blank has 2 faces flat and parallel and 1 edge perfectly straight and 90 to faces. Make fret slots 90 to that edge then take a marking gauge and run it along that same edge ( knowing that you will have enough materials left on both sides). Make sure that you will have enough thickness left to reduce fretboard thickness to at least making that mark made by marking gauge disapear.. Now you have fisical cut which cannot be erased and based on that you can determine taper and inlays. Cut taper. Now you can radius
If you have precut fretboard, is not properly tapered or edge is not perfectly 90 to fret slot, you have to loose hours and hours drawing and erasing, making sure that your drawn line is perfectly 90 referecing a couple of first and last fret slots.
Thank you for the video. I did a partscaster (I had the free parts). problem - the string length is 6 mm (1/4"") short. I have to move the bridge further back or build up the neck. What do you recommend? Thank you.
Nice on Chris. Great points, It’s all commonsense really, but I’ve been there, then the excitement and eagerness take over and before you know it you’ve made another boo boo.
I don’t dislike laminated necks, I just don’t see the point. Same with neck through guitars. I make both, however, set-in and bolt-in necks work just fine and have been proven over millions and millions of builds.
Have you found installing frets into a fretboard before its glued to the neck causes the fretboard to bow as the tangs spread the wood apart?
I don't install the frets before gluing the fretboard to the neck.
One thing I try to do is make my body as a 2-piece glue up. This leaves a glue joint that can be used as a centerline. I keep tracing over it when necessary to see it better. The glue joint is usually visible after a light sanding and keeps everything consistently aligned that depends on a centerline.
Yep, I do exactly the same thing.
I got my neck pocket slightly off of my centerline on my first build. Fortunately, I didn't have all my pickup and bridge holes cut and drilled so I was able to adjust everything and get it all to line up.
These kinds of videos are priceless…thank you!!
Bedankt,
Hello Chris, first I would like to compliment you on what you bring to this RUclips channel of yours. I want to soon start building my first guitar as a therapeutic activity for my mental health problems. I have decided to build a guitar for myself to give my thoughts a different focus. The practical guitar building input and background information you provide here are very welcome and indispensable for me as a starting hobby builder. I am now working on collecting as many skills as possible with which I will soon be able to successfully build my first guitar. That is why I have also decided to start a 10-day basic "Guitar Building" course soon. You make a great contribution to making this process possible for me, I have made a small thank you donation to your RUclips channel as a support for even more fantastic instruction and information videos from you. Thanks Chris….I will continue to follow you closely here.
Thanks so much for the tip. I hope you are able to learn from my videos as you start your own guitar building adventure. Building guitars is a great way to calm the soul as you create an instrument that you can be proud of. Good luck!
Great points Chris. Especially the last point on testing the finish on scrap wood. Knowing how the finish reacts with exotic woods is important as is how it will look. And drilling the right sized pilot holes is very critical, even when upgrading and repairing.
The only item mentioned that I don't follow, not because I disagree but just because I've always done it different, is the first point on making the fretboard to completion and the neck shaft to completion then jointing them in the final step. I find it easier to rough the neck shaft then glue the fret/finger board slab to the rough shaped shaft. It's just personal preference and I totally understand your method.
Great stuff as always.
Another interesting question is how much space between the edge of the string to the edge of the fretboard.
Screws do not break from overheating during the screwing. They break by amount of force applied to them.
Um… force generates heat.🤭
@HighlineGuitars
We don't see smoke from wood.
Which must indicates enough temperature to weakening metal.
@ that depends on the alloy and the size of the screw.
@HighlineGuitars
All of them made from steel.
Gotoh now makes a tune-o-matic with individual height adjustment saddles. Could be a life saver.
They do? Please post a link.
Google Gotoh 510BN
@@HighlineGuitars Have you tried one yet?
At first I thought you were referring to the 510FB, but it's the 510BN. Very interesting, but there doesn't seem to be anything on their website. However, it is available at allparts.
@@nucleargrizzly1776 No, I haven't. Yet.
5:40 Everything I've learned has been from u chrisyi appreciate you sharing your vasy knowledge!!! Forever in dept to your priceless advice
Throughout this vid on several points I’ve just gone wow! So much to consider. We say everything affects a guitar from pickup to oil based (Wudtone) to “nail varnish “ finish but I’ve never thought of the pickup mounting and so much more . Brilliant, thank you very much.
Great points -- especially about the finish!
I actually had a case one time where I used a super high gloss acrylic lacquer that tested out ok on scrap. From that I thought it would work great, but the one thing that really didn't show up on the scrap was durability, and this particular lacquer formulation had none! Even after it cured for close to a month, within two weeks of playing time it was already wearing off, losing its luster, and showing scratching. Even setting it on a guitar stand, it would pick up imprints from the stand.
Luckily this was a prototype so only my family and I were testing it, but there can definitely be some crazy variables with coatings!
I’m about to start my very first build soon: a bass. This video is GOLD for me! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks, Chris. I’ve learned so much from you over the years. I appreciate you sharing your wisdom with us!
Thank you @Nethera6, I really appreciate the tip.
I emailed a parts manufacturer earlier this week to ask what size bits they used for the pilot holes on the body I ordered so now I feel really smart. however I also have box of odds and ends parts because I tend to get a litte ahead of myself when I start a new project so I guess it's a wash.
Thanks!
Hey thanks, @fat-hand. I really appreciate it!
I've become rather expert at fixing mistakes. I did a laminated neck without realizing my planer was busted and putting in a 1.5mm dip in all my wood. Had to resquare it with handtools and fill gaps in the lamination with scraps and sawdust. But it will be fine.
Bars of Paraffin wax are great for coating your screws in hardwoods. They also last forever and store well in a toolbox, without melting. Another trick for screwing into hardwoods is to get yourself a set of "Gimlets". They are hardened steel thread taps for wood. They come in all the small screw sizes and create a thread path in a pilot hole.
Fantastic idea.
Wish I would have seen this before I started building. I did 4 of the 5,knew about soap on screw threads. I have done more mistakes. Lack of knowledge on fretboard radius was one of mine. Measure more than twice before cutting and drilling if you have to. Great video and having a set sequence for building is very important.
what is the most important thing to get right when building a guitar? it it the intonation from the nut to the bridge? is it the tightness of the neck pocket? just curious as i’m getting ready to do my first on my cnc machine
It's all equally important.
@@HighlineGuitars I assumed it does all go hand in hand. is there anything that you repeatedly run into that seems like it tripped you up the first few times you built a guitar ?
@@eross21 All 5 that are described in this video.
Experience. Anybody that doesn't have experience with materials, tools and particular object making building idiosyncrasies and steps is bound to make mistakes, even big ones. So it takes time, sometimes years . No way around it.
Thanks Chris.
Agree totally with your comments. I only scratch build as a hobby and to date have not had to make the full scale drawing. Luckily for me,I am a retired Engineer so math to me is second nature. So my only comment to add is you have to be very good at math or do the full scale drawing. So far I have not had any errors! But your compare right on
I’ve been winging it all along … but I don’t build for anyone but myself. I think it’s time to build one for as a real true player and see how it goes. Great vid!
Sounds like the majority of the issues can be solved by designing the whole guitar in CAD 1st. Thanks for the helpful tip Chris!
OMG. Number three. So many times. Truss rod cover and hook screws to hang the guitar for drying.
Strange as this may sound I glue whatever woods need it (3 pc neck 2 pc body etc) then the make the neck/body joint. The neck and body are joined and everything is indexed from the same point. Neck and body are shaped while attached. It seems to only work for me.
This video popped up in my youtube feed. Subscribed immediately. Thank you for existing.
Wow, thank you!
Center line!!! As you are working on your fretboard constantly measure and draw precise centerline you can. Measure, remeasure and remeasure. Even as i have checked few times i have determined wrong centerline and the taper was off on one side, so i had to fix it by making thin strip of ebony, gluing it, leveling with the rest of the fretboard, frets slot sawing....Repair took me the same time to make a whole fretboard.
I’m in the process of planning my first build and this is precisely the aspect that I’m most nervous about…do you have any tips on how to measure and/or mark your centerline? I’m worried that even the thickness of my pencil lead is going to throw everything off by .5mm or something like that
@@redfurydubstep My problem is that i had pre-radiused fretboard (which has cupped so i had to plane to and re-radius). Never again.
I would first make sure blank has 2 faces flat and parallel and 1 edge perfectly straight and 90 to faces. Make fret slots 90 to that edge then take a marking gauge and run it along that same edge ( knowing that you will have enough materials left on both sides). Make sure that you will have enough thickness left to reduce fretboard thickness to at least making that mark made by marking gauge disapear.. Now you have fisical cut which cannot be erased and based on that you can determine taper and inlays. Cut taper. Now you can radius
If you have precut fretboard, is not properly tapered or edge is not perfectly 90 to fret slot, you have to loose hours and hours drawing and erasing, making sure that your drawn line is perfectly 90 referecing a couple of first and last fret slots.
Always helpful, thanks Chris!
Thank you for the video. I did a partscaster (I had the free parts). problem - the string length is 6 mm (1/4"") short. I have to move the bridge further back or build up the neck. What do you recommend? Thank you.
Buy longer strings.
He isn't wrong
Nice on Chris. Great points, It’s all commonsense really, but I’ve been there, then the excitement and eagerness take over and before you know it you’ve made another boo boo.
I no u don't like laminate necks but what do u think about neck thru laminate builds???
I don’t dislike laminated necks, I just don’t see the point. Same with neck through guitars. I make both, however, set-in and bolt-in necks work just fine and have been proven over millions and millions of builds.
Thanks Chris
I have obtained soo much knowledge from your videos thank you !
Thanks, Tony!!
Thank you for a useful and informative video!
Always laying out the facts.
With all due respect, how much is your guitar models and where may I purchase one?
Ah, those pesky tuner screws... anyway, more of a suggestion: build version 0.1 before the final version. Scrap wood is cheaper than flamed maple.
Thanks, interesting tutorial, I think I made the 5 mistakes... but I'm not the only one?🙄
Good video
Yep…. Done all 5 lol 🤷🏼♂️🤦♂️🤘