You could try installing a stand alone oscillator module and connecting it to the appropriate crystal pin to see if that gets the processor running, I have done that in the past to work around a dead internal oscillator.
U could try taking out the pic out of the socket, sometime it just develops some corrosion around the pins that act as impedanceses, u could also try to verify the chip is ok outside the the circuit in a breadboard, if this pic has an Mclr pin/ reset pin then I would check to see that the pull up resistor is not shot and working properly other wise it would be in a state of programming
As said before, check the socket. Spring contact sockets are susceptible to oxidation. If there is a reset pin, check it, you probably did already but left it out of the video. But if not, there might be a supervisory ic that has gone haywire. Check ceramic caps around ICs and such. They can fail dead short in rare cases. Also have seen a manufacturing defect where one was damaged and absorbed ambient moisture (my guess) it didn't let the reset line come up as it turned into a resistor.
I have been seeing more and more faults caused by ceramic capacitors. The older ones seem to be failing now. It's just one more component to be suspicious of that we never had to worry about before.
А что приходит при нажатии клавиш? Я так понимаю что на каждой клавише что то вроде двух свичей, так что временной интервал между нажатиями которых трактуется микроконтроллером как сила нажатия. Но вот если клавиатура еще поддерживает послекасание, то как это реализованно? И можно ли где то найти распиновку шлейфов которые идут от клавиатуры. В теории ведь можно взять что то вроде ESP32 и реализовать тот функционал что есть на этом сгоревшем микроконтроллере.
Приветствую, странная история, стоит передернуть МК в панельке, проверить питания на самом МК, проверить керамические кондеры у кварца, ну и как писали попробовать не с резонатором, а генератором.
Hello Orion, could you recommend some brain for this machine, i have a studiologic 880 PRO which is very similar, same fatar keybed. I have seen that fatar products of that time tend to fail in electronics. I don't know how much longer mine can last, before it stops working I would like to change the brain. Thanks!
Hello Feedback loop!, I have a Fatar Studiologic SL-880 PRO, the main card sometimes fails when it is turned on, I read in the forums that the electronics fail in the Fatar products of this time. The keybed is fantastic, I'm a fan of electronics, but is it possible to make a keybed controller cheaply? It would also be a great experiment for this channel. Thank you!
Why Arduino? By "boom" you probably mean that it is easy, don't you? It is easy to buy a blank PIC controller for about $6. The problem is the software. It is possible to figure out the connections and write something, but that is a lot of work for a one-off project. Even harder to match the features of the original keyboard - velocity curves, parameter setting using those buttons on the front and such. The keyboard is not worth that much.
@@feedback-loop Yes, I simply meant use the gut the machine and shove your own stuff in there. True it will not operate "The Same" but who wants yet another midi keyboard, Great opportunity to trick it out :)
@@feedback-loop Hmm - unless it is your ONLY midi keyboard, or has some unique feature you lack in another unit, or you just like the weight of the keys. Sadly I do not have that units so... I should not judge
You could try installing a stand alone oscillator module and connecting it to the appropriate crystal pin to see if that gets the processor running, I have done that in the past to work around a dead internal oscillator.
Love your videos. Very learning and entertainment
That is kinda sad. I would at least try to read out the PIC before I give up. And I would also check the RESET line just to be sure.
With a few hints from the comment section, there is hope for a Part 2?
Time to find someone who will clone you a chip! Good luck with that. Always excellent videos. I feel your pain.
U could try taking out the pic out of the socket, sometime it just develops some corrosion around the pins that act as impedanceses, u could also try to verify the chip is ok outside the the circuit in a breadboard, if this pic has an Mclr pin/ reset pin then I would check to see that the pull up resistor is not shot and working properly other wise it would be in a state of programming
Did you remove/reseat those ICs (with deoxit)? Sockets are always trouble.
Right On KiZmax! You be bad :O) Cheers
As said before, check the socket. Spring contact sockets are susceptible to oxidation.
If there is a reset pin, check it, you probably did already but left it out of the video. But if not, there might be a supervisory ic that has gone haywire.
Check ceramic caps around ICs and such. They can fail dead short in rare cases. Also have seen a manufacturing defect where one was damaged and absorbed ambient moisture (my guess) it didn't let the reset line come up as it turned into a resistor.
I had exactly the moisture issue you mentioned on a THT 100nf capacitor!
It turned to a resistor!
I have been seeing more and more faults caused by ceramic capacitors. The older ones seem to be failing now. It's just one more component to be suspicious of that we never had to worry about before.
I couldn't see optocoupler on the midi, probably how it failed ... thanks for your video
I believe that an optocoupler should be on the receiving side
I would try the PIC in a programmer. See if it identifies it correctly. No point going further if not.
Right, I should have tried that while shooting the video. The chip does not respond at all in my TL866 programmer.
That looks like an old Design. I bet when this came out it even used a PIC16C74 and was designed using the UV EPROM version of it.
А что приходит при нажатии клавиш? Я так понимаю что на каждой клавише что то вроде двух свичей, так что временной интервал между нажатиями которых трактуется микроконтроллером как сила нажатия. Но вот если клавиатура еще поддерживает послекасание, то как это реализованно? И можно ли где то найти распиновку шлейфов которые идут от клавиатуры. В теории ведь можно взять что то вроде ESP32 и реализовать тот функционал что есть на этом сгоревшем микроконтроллере.
Приветствую, странная история, стоит передернуть МК в панельке, проверить питания на самом МК, проверить керамические кондеры у кварца, ну и как писали попробовать не с резонатором, а генератором.
Have you looked up any info on the model? Perhaps there's a forum somewhere that has info on the Studiologic SL-990 and its failure modes.
that's a fatar tp40gh keybed, you can find more modern brains for that keybe if you're trying to update the keyboard.
could you suggest one?
Hello Orion, could you recommend some brain for this machine, i have a studiologic 880 PRO which is very similar, same fatar keybed. I have seen that fatar products of that time tend to fail in electronics. I don't know how much longer mine can last, before it stops working I would like to change the brain. Thanks!
Hello Feedback loop!, I have a Fatar Studiologic SL-880 PRO, the main card sometimes fails when it is turned on, I read in the forums that the electronics fail in the Fatar products of this time. The keybed is fantastic, I'm a fan of electronics, but is it possible to make a keybed controller cheaply?
It would also be a great experiment for this channel.
Thank you!
Checked the caps/resistors in the oscillator circuit? They won't oscillate without the correct load.
InTeReStiNg
Take out the chip and see if it has readout protection enabled. You might be lucky!
my TL866 programmer cannot talk to the chip. I should have tried that while shooting the video for completeness.
What about the XTal / clk if you plug in the Midi cable?
Someone can explain him to use voltmeter in DC 🤭
Try explaining yourself
throw an arudino in there. Boom.
Why Arduino? By "boom" you probably mean that it is easy, don't you? It is easy to buy a blank PIC controller for about $6. The problem is the software. It is possible to figure out the connections and write something, but that is a lot of work for a one-off project. Even harder to match the features of the original keyboard - velocity curves, parameter setting using those buttons on the front and such. The keyboard is not worth that much.
@@feedback-loop Yes, I simply meant use the gut the machine and shove your own stuff in there. True it will not operate "The Same" but who wants yet another midi keyboard, Great opportunity to trick it out :)
@@feedback-loop Hmm - unless it is your ONLY midi keyboard, or has some unique feature you lack in another unit, or you just like the weight of the keys. Sadly I do not have that units so... I should not judge