Hi Wayne, I am in the process of restoring and touching up the decals on a German Hengstenberg "Regina" hand crank sewing machine. The original decals are deep, rich, metallic looking decals. I don't know if real gold was used in the decals or not. Anyway, finding the right color and metallic luster I thought was going to be hard, but surprisingly I hit upon the EXACT match for this particular machines decals. The lines and curly ques are so small and delicate, I have had to resort to using a fine pointed needle to dip into the paint and dab it and dot it on. Even a toothpick end is too big in some areas. It is a slow, painstaking procedure, but the results I'm getting are spectacular! I don't know if you have this particular color in your arsenal of colors, but if you don't you may want to buy a bottle and see if you like it. The brand is DecoArt Dazzling Metallics and the color is "Venetian Gold". It is the PERFECT metallic look and color that I needed. Thanks for all your excellent videos on the restoration of these lovely machines.
I am very sorry for not responding sooner, but for some reason RUclips isn't informing me when someone posts a comment. I'm having to go back through all my videos and check to see which I've missed. I don't recall testing the paint you mentioned but I will look for it and certainly give it a try Thanks!
You're welcome! Since making this video I found a better paint. It's gold colored bronze powder mixed 50/50 by volume with clear shellac. The color match and luster are closer to what was originally used on these machines. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for your wonderful videos! I'm trying to restore a number of antique machine's decals by hand painting the missing decals. I see you now recommend the 50/50 gold coloured bronze powder mixed with clear shellac. I was wondering how smooth this mixture would be for restoring very fine longer curved lines and if using the shellac causes it to dry more quickly becoming harder to paint smoothly? if so, what might I mix the powder with that would flow meow easily? I figured I could then re-draw the gold painted lines with the shallac. Any suggestions would be appreciated! There are what I might describe as ghost lines ..." indentations" in the japanning visible where the lines used to be.
You're right, the shellac does dry quickly, though until it does this mixture flows smoothly. What I do is mix a small quantity in and small jar held in my non-painting hand with my thumb over the top. I only lift my thumb to dip a little paint out then immediately cover to again. This helps a lot. The mixture is quite forgiving in that it can be varied to get the consistency needed for flowing lines. Every few lines I need to clean the brush off with solvent because the dried mixture builds up. I've tried several times hand painting fine lines and never been able to get smooth ones. My hand always jiggles enough to make the lines look wavy. This isn't a problem if I'm just toughing up small details, but for long lines it can be frustrating. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Thank you! I'm sorry I didn't respond sooner, but for some reason RUclips isn't telling me when people post comments. I'm slowly working my way back through them all but with 520 videos it's going to take some time.
Appreciate this video! I'm wondering if you have a list for the 21 paints you tested? I'm looking for a good mirror finish gold for painting resin pieces, and this would be a helpful resource for my research.
I'm sorry, but after completing the video the list was discarded. I can tell you that none off them produced a true mirror-like finish. The only way I've found to achieve that is tom use metal leaf. 24kt gold leaf is the best, but expensive and difficult to use. Artificial gold leaf is almost as good. Thanks for the comment!
I found the following video on how to paint a mirror-like gold finish onto a complex shape. I hope it helps. Good luck! ruclips.net/video/0LsygAUWFs0/видео.html
I wonder if you happen to come across Vallejo Gold Metal Acrylic paint for airbrush as used by Vince Venturella: ruclips.net/video/hauVrnhIah0/видео.html&t. It seems to be very adjustable color wise (find the right mix between gold and copper) and easily available in Europe.
You're welcome, and thanks for commenting! Since posting this video I've continued researching gold paints and learned that what was originally used 100 years ago was bronze powder-based paints. I found crescentbronze.com sells a wide range of powders, ordered some and now use it mixed into a little clear lacquer. It's a better match, more durable and historically correct.
I have a Singer 28k sewing machine which has most of its decals intact, but the black paint is pitted or chipped on the flatbed and some corners. How I could fix the black paint and protect those parts without stripping off the entire machine?
Hello! And thanks for the excellent question! What looks like black paint is actually Japanning, a baked finish of asphaltum, linseed oil and turpentine. It's a hard, tough, thick finish that lasts a long time but can chip. I use a Testors gloss black enamel applied with a toothpick to fill in the pits created when some of the Japaning gets chipped. The Testers comes in small, square glass bottles in most hobby stores and craft stores like Micheal's, JoAnn's and Hobby Lobby. Depending on the depth of the chip, several layers may be necessary to fill it in. Be careful to paint right up to the edge of the chip without going over. If that happens a raised edge will form that will tend to make the things look worse. I find just filling the chip in ends up looking pretty good, but for the best effect, overfilling, then sanding and polishing the fill-in smooth will make it almost disappear. I hope this helps. Good luck!
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you very much for the quick reply. If Testors gloss black enamel is not available in my country, can I use any glossy enamel paint and it will be the same effect?
@@Kamane-bee I wouldn't bother for small chipped spots. The gloss black will be shiny enough to blend in with the surrounding area. But, not depends on which paint you end up using. I recommend experimenting with an out-of-the-way location on the machine until you perfect the desired result. I also recommend avoiding shellac unless you are familiar with it. It dries so fast getting a good finish can be difficult. I've given up trying to use it in favor of spray clear coats. Even these can be problematic in that they are mostly lacquers, which can attack enamels. There are acrylic clear coats that are safer to use over enamels. Again, it depends on what you have in your area so experimentation is important.
Great video, I'm feeling better about touching up decals now. Would it be best to remove the old shellac/finish with denatured alcohol (as I have done with a french polish refinish) before touching up with paint? Or is it fine to just touch up and then apply a new finish. Thanks
It's always best to get down to the original decal, but doing so runs the risk of damaging it. I only clean with a good degreaser like Gojo or 409, then polish it down with Novus 2, a very mild buffing compound for removing minor scratches on plastic. Many times this returns the gloss to the Japanning. Then I touch up followed by clear coating. As much as I prefer using original materials like shellac, recently I've switched to using Design Master Clear Finish Gloss #168 spray. It's much easier than shellac. I've had a lot of problems getting a good finish with shellac. But, if you're good with it that's the way to go. Just test the paint against shellac to make sure the shellac doesn't attack it. Good luck and thanks for writing!
@@tobyssewingmachinerepair8949 That's a great idea! Is it okay if I steal it? I usually test new ideas out on sheets of sheet metal painted gloss black. That's good but what works on a level, flat surface doesn't always work on an actual machine with all its angles and curves. I checked out you channel. You have some great machines! I particularly like the Raymond #1. The "RAYMOND" decal on the coffin cover is amazing considering how old it is. I would have expected it to have worn off as fast or faster than the machine decals because it would have been exposed to the home environment more than the machine itself, assuming the machine was kept covered between uses.
@@wayneschmidt490 Of course you can steal it! I'm sure plenty of folks have tested paint on old machines. Thanks for checking out my channel, yes the Raymond no. 1 is my prized possession, especially since I live in Guelph where they were made. I actually found another Raymond #1 Treadle if you can believe it! In better condition with a slightly larger table, I'm picking it up tomorrow. They are supposedly very rare but makes sense that they would pop up nearby. I'm going to restore the new one and gift it to the local sewing centre for display!
I wouldn't think so. These paints were all so opaque that what's underneath them would have little affect on the finished look. By the way, since publishing this video I continued looking for a better gold paint and finally found one. Mixing Crescent Bronze's pale fine gold bronze powder 50/50 with clear Zinger Sealcoat shellac produces a gold with excellent metallic luster and color. Better still, it doesn't need to be clear coated to protect it. Also, Design Master seems to have gotten out of spray paints so my recommendation to use them is no longer useful. Thanks for commenting!
Yes. At least I never had any problems painting it over enamels. Just make sure whatever paint you're using is thoroughly cured and compatible with shellac. It's always a good idea to test it first to make sure it doesn't attack your paint. One issue with shellac is that is dries very quickly. Repeatedly brushing over the same area will create streaks. Good luck! What type of machine are you restoring?
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you for responding. I am a big fan! I am restoring a wertheim superba fiddlebase. I bought it from across the pond. I finally received my can of design master 14kt gold paint on your recommendation from watching one of your videos. I made clear plastic stencils for most of the designs on the machine and the stencils will be applied in layers. Hoping to start tomorrow. I think I should french polish the whole machine with thin shellac, let cure, then apply the gold paint. What are your thoughts on that idea? Secondly, If the paint colour matches the existing decals, I'll just do what is missing. If they are not compatible, I will be stencilling over all the decals, then french polish till I am satisfied with the result. May take me a long time!
@@lynnbloom4076 The shellac should be applied after the gold paint to protect it. The design Master paint isn't an enamel so it can't stand up to much wear. I looked up your machine and it's definitely worth investing the time to restore it.
Hi Wayne, I am in the process of restoring and touching up the decals on a German Hengstenberg "Regina" hand crank sewing machine. The original decals are deep, rich, metallic looking decals. I don't know if real gold was used in the decals or not. Anyway, finding the right color and metallic luster I thought was going to be hard, but surprisingly I hit upon the EXACT match for this particular machines decals. The lines and curly ques are so small and delicate, I have had to resort to using a fine pointed needle to dip into the paint and dab it and dot it on. Even a toothpick end is too big in some areas. It is a slow, painstaking procedure, but the results I'm getting are spectacular! I don't know if you have this particular color in your arsenal of colors, but if you don't you may want to buy a bottle and see if you like it. The brand is DecoArt Dazzling Metallics and the color is "Venetian Gold". It is the PERFECT metallic look and color that I needed. Thanks for all your excellent videos on the restoration of these lovely machines.
I am very sorry for not responding sooner, but for some reason RUclips isn't informing me when someone posts a comment. I'm having to go back through all my videos and check to see which I've missed. I don't recall testing the paint you mentioned but I will look for it and certainly give it a try Thanks!
great video - thanks
You're welcome! Since making this video I found a better paint. It's gold colored bronze powder mixed 50/50 by volume with clear shellac. The color match and luster are closer to what was originally used on these machines. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for your wonderful videos! I'm trying to restore a number of antique machine's decals by hand painting the missing decals. I see you now recommend the 50/50 gold coloured bronze powder mixed with clear shellac. I was wondering how smooth this mixture would be for restoring very fine longer curved lines and if using the shellac causes it to dry more quickly becoming harder to paint smoothly? if so, what might I mix the powder with that would flow meow easily? I figured I could then re-draw the gold painted lines with the shallac. Any suggestions would be appreciated! There are what I might describe as ghost lines ..." indentations" in the japanning visible where the lines used to be.
You're right, the shellac does dry quickly, though until it does this mixture flows smoothly. What I do is mix a small quantity in and small jar held in my non-painting hand with my thumb over the top. I only lift my thumb to dip a little paint out then immediately cover to again. This helps a lot. The mixture is quite forgiving in that it can be varied to get the consistency needed for flowing lines. Every few lines I need to clean the brush off with solvent because the dried mixture builds up.
I've tried several times hand painting fine lines and never been able to get smooth ones. My hand always jiggles enough to make the lines look wavy. This isn't a problem if I'm just toughing up small details, but for long lines it can be frustrating. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Do you have green and red paint recommendations for the red eye 66 models?
Straight to the point. Thanks for the info.
Although I do like your more in-depth videos🙂
Thank you! I'm sorry I didn't respond sooner, but for some reason RUclips isn't telling me when people post comments. I'm slowly working my way back through them all but with 520 videos it's going to take some time.
Appreciate this video! I'm wondering if you have a list for the 21 paints you tested? I'm looking for a good mirror finish gold for painting resin pieces, and this would be a helpful resource for my research.
I'm sorry, but after completing the video the list was discarded. I can tell you that none off them produced a true mirror-like finish. The only way I've found to achieve that is tom use metal leaf. 24kt gold leaf is the best, but expensive and difficult to use. Artificial gold leaf is almost as good. Thanks for the comment!
I found the following video on how to paint a mirror-like gold finish onto a complex shape. I hope it helps. Good luck!
ruclips.net/video/0LsygAUWFs0/видео.html
Loved It!
Thank you!
I wonder if you happen to come across Vallejo Gold Metal Acrylic paint for airbrush as used by Vince Venturella: ruclips.net/video/hauVrnhIah0/видео.html&t. It seems to be very adjustable color wise (find the right mix between gold and copper) and easily available in Europe.
Thank you!!!!
You're welcome, and thanks for commenting! Since posting this video I've continued researching gold paints and learned that what was originally used 100 years ago was bronze powder-based paints. I found crescentbronze.com sells a wide range of powders, ordered some and now use it mixed into a little clear lacquer. It's a better match, more durable and historically correct.
I have a Singer 28k sewing machine which has most of its decals intact, but the black paint is pitted or chipped on the flatbed and some corners. How I could fix the black paint and protect those parts without stripping off the entire machine?
Hello! And thanks for the excellent question! What looks like black paint is actually Japanning, a baked finish of asphaltum, linseed oil and turpentine. It's a hard, tough, thick finish that lasts a long time but can chip. I use a Testors gloss black enamel applied with a toothpick to fill in the pits created when some of the Japaning gets chipped. The Testers comes in small, square glass bottles in most hobby stores and craft stores like Micheal's, JoAnn's and Hobby Lobby. Depending on the depth of the chip, several layers may be necessary to fill it in. Be careful to paint right up to the edge of the chip without going over. If that happens a raised edge will form that will tend to make the things look worse. I find just filling the chip in ends up looking pretty good, but for the best effect, overfilling, then sanding and polishing the fill-in smooth will make it almost disappear. I hope this helps. Good luck!
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you very much for the quick reply. If Testors gloss black enamel is not available in my country, can I use any glossy enamel paint and it will be the same effect?
@@Kamane-bee I would think almost any gloss black paint would work. Just be careful to clean the area thoroughly of any oil first.
@@wayneschmidt490 Oh great! Would I need to apply shellac or any other varnish on top all machine after treating areas with enamel paint?
@@Kamane-bee I wouldn't bother for small chipped spots. The gloss black will be shiny enough to blend in with the surrounding area. But, not depends on which paint you end up using. I recommend experimenting with an out-of-the-way location on the machine until you perfect the desired result. I also recommend avoiding shellac unless you are familiar with it. It dries so fast getting a good finish can be difficult. I've given up trying to use it in favor of spray clear coats. Even these can be problematic in that they are mostly lacquers, which can attack enamels. There are acrylic clear coats that are safer to use over enamels. Again, it depends on what you have in your area so experimentation is important.
Great video, I'm feeling better about touching up decals now. Would it be best to remove the old shellac/finish with denatured alcohol (as I have done with a french polish refinish) before touching up with paint? Or is it fine to just touch up and then apply a new finish. Thanks
It's always best to get down to the original decal, but doing so runs the risk of damaging it. I only clean with a good degreaser like Gojo or 409, then polish it down with Novus 2, a very mild buffing compound for removing minor scratches on plastic. Many times this returns the gloss to the Japanning. Then I touch up followed by clear coating. As much as I prefer using original materials like shellac, recently I've switched to using Design Master Clear Finish Gloss #168 spray. It's much easier than shellac. I've had a lot of problems getting a good finish with shellac. But, if you're good with it that's the way to go. Just test the paint against shellac to make sure the shellac doesn't attack it. Good luck and thanks for writing!
@@wayneschmidt490 Thanks for the reply Wayne. I think I'm going to try this on a machine that I don't care too much to find what works best for me!
@@tobyssewingmachinerepair8949 That's a great idea! Is it okay if I steal it? I usually test new ideas out on sheets of sheet metal painted gloss black. That's good but what works on a level, flat surface doesn't always work on an actual machine with all its angles and curves.
I checked out you channel. You have some great machines! I particularly like the Raymond #1. The "RAYMOND" decal on the coffin cover is amazing considering how old it is. I would have expected it to have worn off as fast or faster than the machine decals because it would have been exposed to the home environment more than the machine itself, assuming the machine was kept covered between uses.
@@wayneschmidt490 Of course you can steal it! I'm sure plenty of folks have tested paint on old machines. Thanks for checking out my channel, yes the Raymond no. 1 is my prized possession, especially since I live in Guelph where they were made. I actually found another Raymond #1 Treadle if you can believe it! In better condition with a slightly larger table, I'm picking it up tomorrow. They are supposedly very rare but makes sense that they would pop up nearby. I'm going to restore the new one and gift it to the local sewing centre for display!
Would the gold shine more if painted ontop of chrome?
I wouldn't think so. These paints were all so opaque that what's underneath them would have little affect on the finished look. By the way, since publishing this video I continued looking for a better gold paint and finally found one. Mixing Crescent Bronze's pale fine gold bronze powder 50/50 with clear Zinger Sealcoat shellac produces a gold with excellent metallic luster and color. Better still, it doesn't need to be clear coated to protect it. Also, Design Master seems to have gotten out of spray paints so my recommendation to use them is no longer useful. Thanks for commenting!
@@wayneschmidt490 thank you for the reply I will look into it
After applying the paint in missing spots, can the whole machine be reshellacked over the whole machine?
Yes. At least I never had any problems painting it over enamels. Just make sure whatever paint you're using is thoroughly cured and compatible with shellac. It's always a good idea to test it first to make sure it doesn't attack your paint. One issue with shellac is that is dries very quickly. Repeatedly brushing over the same area will create streaks. Good luck! What type of machine are you restoring?
@@wayneschmidt490 Thank you for responding. I am a big fan!
I am restoring a wertheim superba fiddlebase. I bought it from across the pond. I finally received my can of design master 14kt gold paint on your recommendation from watching one of your videos. I made clear plastic stencils for most of the designs on the machine and the stencils will be applied in layers. Hoping to start tomorrow. I think I should french polish the whole machine with thin shellac, let cure, then apply the gold paint. What are your thoughts on that idea?
Secondly, If the paint colour matches the existing decals, I'll just do what is missing. If they are not compatible, I will be stencilling over all the decals, then french polish till I am satisfied with the result. May take me a long time!
@@lynnbloom4076 The shellac should be applied after the gold paint to protect it. The design Master paint isn't an enamel so it can't stand up to much wear. I looked up your machine and it's definitely worth investing the time to restore it.