I've tried every way over the years. Best method by far is a handheld brake line vacuum pump spend the $180-$200 and get a good one you won't regret it
Just changed my LC120 front rotors with these LSI ones a little while back when you first posted about them. My last ones had been machined a few times and I started getting nasty vibrations so was about to buy new ones anyway. New ones so far so good. Perfect fit and quality seems good. And what a bargain as well. Less than $120 for both (thanks for the discount). Probably cheaper to just replace them, rather than get someone to machine them at that price.
Great Vidoe again Anthony, love the gravity bleed procedure, will save me falling out with the wife on the next fluid change lol. I replaced calipers and wheel cylinders last year as one caliper piston was seized, couldn't shift it at all. Does anyone have any tips to prevent it happening apart from moving between pad changes? Would a small amount of molycote under the rubber be any use?
I have just been reading my Haynes manual and it says start with the right front, left front, right rear & left rear. Its the 120 1kz 05 with the unified ABS modulator. Is this correct as i have always started with the left rear wheel on my other cars. Cheers
The Toyota Technical Document advises that the brake calipers are bled in the following order...front right first , then front left, followed by rear right, then finally rear left. Flushing from closest to furthest from the master cylinder.
Just did my brakes this weekend on my 2013 d4d Fortuner. If I knew about the gravity method it would have been so much easier. Thanks for the information.
When bleeding the rear brakes, Toyota recommend you have the vehicle ignition switched on, and the rear brakes will "bleed" quickly once the brake pedal is depressed and held down while loosening the bleed nipple. Depressing the brake pedal activates a brake fluid booser pump, and thus you don't need to repeatedly depress the brake pedal whilst loosening the bleed nipple, and tightening the nipple before releasing the brake pedal. Toyota recommend that you don't depress the brake pedal for more than 100 seconds to avoid damaging the brake fluid booster pump.
Hey Anthony any chance of doing a video for the 150 series using vident scan tool to purge abs accumulator style?? I'm going to do the gravity bleed also but thought seeing as a lot of ppl these days have scan tools it may be a good addition to totally flush system ?? Cheers 🍻
I have no idea how you think this system works. I’ve been sitting here for 40 minutes and this stupid brakes are not bleeding at all just a time a little drop and that’s it stopped. Now I’m going to install tubes and pump the brakes like normal people do
is it ok to do just gravity flush on LC 150? without depressing pedal. Would this work?
I've tried every way over the years. Best method by far is a handheld brake line vacuum pump spend the $180-$200 and get a good one you won't regret it
yeah speeds it up
Just changed my LC120 front rotors with these LSI ones a little while back when you first posted about them. My last ones had been machined a few times and I started getting nasty vibrations so was about to buy new ones anyway.
New ones so far so good. Perfect fit and quality seems good. And what a bargain as well. Less than $120 for both (thanks for the discount).
Probably cheaper to just replace them, rather than get someone to machine them at that price.
Great Vidoe again Anthony, love the gravity bleed procedure, will save me falling out with the wife on the next fluid change lol. I replaced calipers and wheel cylinders last year as one caliper piston was seized, couldn't shift it at all. Does anyone have any tips to prevent it happening apart from moving between pad changes? Would a small amount of molycote under the rubber be any use?
Ok, push it down, ok off! ok, push it down, I SAID DOWN! NOT OFF! DOWN! 🤣Definitely going to use the gravity bleed next time lol
Changing your brake fluid regularly will prevent seized calipers
I have just been reading my Haynes manual and it says start with the right front, left front, right rear & left rear. Its the 120 1kz 05 with the unified ABS modulator. Is this correct as i have always started with the left rear wheel on my other cars.
Cheers
just want to know which wheel should I start first ? can you please let me know thank you
The Toyota Technical Document advises that the brake calipers are bled in the following order...front right first , then front left, followed by rear right, then finally rear left. Flushing from closest to furthest from the master cylinder.
Will this method work on a vehicle like a 2004 oajero that has a electronic accumulator?
Hahaha awesome. Micky mouse cleaning. If uou didn’t forget anything you’re not killing anyone. So true!
Just did my brakes this weekend on my 2013 d4d Fortuner. If I knew about the gravity method it would have been so much easier. Thanks for the information.
Are back brakes same process
When bleeding the rear brakes, Toyota recommend you have the vehicle ignition switched on, and the rear brakes will "bleed" quickly once the brake pedal is depressed and held down while loosening the bleed nipple. Depressing the brake pedal activates a brake fluid booser pump, and thus you don't need to repeatedly depress the brake pedal whilst loosening the bleed nipple, and tightening the nipple before releasing the brake pedal. Toyota recommend that you don't depress the brake pedal for more than 100 seconds to avoid damaging the brake fluid booster pump.
Hey Anthony any chance of doing a video for the 150 series using vident scan tool to purge abs accumulator style?? I'm going to do the gravity bleed also but thought seeing as a lot of ppl these days have scan tools it may be a good addition to totally flush system ??
Cheers 🍻
great vid ant
so for a 150 you have to keep the ACCESSORY? on that hole time???
did you find out? would just doing gravity flush work? without depressing pedal?
Good solid advice 👌
Any point using dot 4 in these instead of dot 3
Dot 4 is for vehicles with abs apparently but you can use dot 5.1 as well.
Lot of talking and bad explanation of something very simple!
Do you need to do every wheel to get 100% change over ??
Yes
I have no idea how you think this system works. I’ve been sitting here for 40 minutes and this stupid brakes are not bleeding at all just a time a little drop and that’s it stopped.
Now I’m going to install tubes and pump the brakes like normal people do
Chill out pal😂
You've obviously messed up a step mate cause it works fine for everyone else...
❤
You funny sometimes another
that was easy 🤣
Nope