Amazing how bosh went from directly making the P7100 , the most ingenious , reliable , aguabily best ever pump ever made to the biggest pos ever made the VP44
The vp44 is awesome. Electronic>mechanical any day. The only people who hate vp44s are fucktards who don't maintain their lift pump. Or install an aftermarket one. Its all about the person driving and maintaining it.
@@benjaminturpin2749 sorry not trying to be an ass but you don’t know whats goin on , i got an 02 dodge bought it bran new still got it , with 50k miles always had 15 lbs of pressure , put fuel gauge on it the day i bought it changed out lift pumps when they even showed any signs of weakness on 3rd one now and guess what my injection pump is gone , so in 50k miles i went through 3 lift pumps and vp44 , also got a 98 12v. I bought in 2004 and still got it so it was fairly new and i put on 240k miles on her to date and not a issue , the VP44 is a piece of junk , theres a reason they make p pump conversation kits , ya don’t see anyone making a kit to put a VP44 on anything, you may want to be the first one to engineer one and become rich lol , ya wouldn’t sell one of em lol
I would just like to say, you are one of the only English speaking people to share this knowledge on youtube. This information is not easily discovered. Almost all bosch inline pumps operate like this. Someone with no experience in diesel mechanical governors etc need all the info they can get. I appreciate this video .. Now do a video on actually adjusting the pumps and fine tuning them
@@jarodmarch123 I ended up getting it pretty good within its limits without calibrating it on a bench it only took me months of fiddling to get it just right. Amazingly nothing was damaged in the process.
Taking out your fuel plate sliding your housing forward etc just gives it more rack travel increases how many mm of that 12mm stroke actually is in use like he said at idle 3 or so and up to 7 or so Max on a stock pump depending if it’s a 160-215 hp pump which is decided by year model and if it’s auto or manual etc so fully modded you could probably use 10 mm without taking the pump itself apart your star wheel adjustment just loosens or tightens how hard it is to fully compress the spring to get max rack travel that’s why loosening it off makes them smoke because it will push more fuel out before it has the air to consume all of that fuel because of the spring being lighter that extra fuel will make your turbo spool faster though in most situations I hope this answers your question atleast somewhat I’m no mechanic I’m a 16 year old with a diesel addiction and a 27 year old 2nd gen 12v with the 160 pump in it (it doesn’t make 160 anymore I learned all I know by working on it myself) there simple unique in a pickup and I love it the sound the power I could go on and on obviously Ima shut up now before I’m writing for 3 hours a whole book hope this helps with your question unfortunately can’t do a video because I don’t have the tools to actually pull my pump or I would to mod it further or I would once I get an afc live so I don’t absolutely fuck my fuel mileage
Ny govenor housong exploded today, judt on idle no bang or anything, i was bleeding injectors and got them all bled, went and shut the truck off and dropped my 3/4 wrench on the ground. Went to pick it up and i had peices of gpvenor housing and springs on the ground. What a bummer ive had the truck for 4 montjs only drove it for 5 minutes with all the issues now this
Thank you very much for this video. It's the first time I've seen any of the inside of this p7100. I have a '98 12 valve. I'm actually having a little issue that seems to have arisen. If I rev the engine unloaded it sort of shutters and puffs white smoke out the pipe but drives normally under load. I've also noticed that the feed pressure oscillates pretty violently, especially in the RPM range that the shuttering is occurring? I'm wondering if I just maybe have a crappy overflow valve and it's causing the pressure to oscillate heavily... I do have 3000 RPM springs and maybe need to go back and check that both sides are tensioned evenly.... Aside from that, just a number 10 plate minor tweaks and 5x12s with an HX40...
Can you measure the distance from the top of the plunger to the spill port helix at say idle, 20%-30%-50%-70%-80%-90%-100% rack travel? I have a dead 160 here I could take apart to check but I’d be curious to see if you have measured those or if you could? To look at injector on time at the different positions. Thank ya for the killer videos.
Nice! Any idea why mine would bounce between 1k and 1500 rpms at idle all of a sudden? Was holding steady at 850-900. I’m leaning towards governor unit failure unfortunately. What’s your opinion?
I have a excavator with a 5.9 Cummins with a P3000 injection pump. Vintage is 1996. After changing fuel filters on this died out machine, I now cannot get fuel to the injectors by hand pumping the lift pump or starter cranking. I’m fairly certain I have all the air out of the system as I have good flow on the return line back to the fuel tank. I have pumped by hand for quite a long time cracking bango nuts and, one at a time, each injector line. I have checked the return ball and spring and they seem fine. I make sure the solenoid open while I hand pump. Could I have more issues going on inside the main pump itself or could it be a weak lift pump? I understand these P pumps are quite robust. I’m trying to avoid pulling off the main pump if it could be something simple that I’m missing. I have not replaced the lift pump yet but will if this could be the culprit. The machine was running excellent until it just slowly died out and stopped.
What are the big differences between the Chinese version of the 4BTP pump and say a genuine Bosch pump? There’s literally a $3000 price and I just don’t understand how it can be worth it when these are fairly simple and old design. Maybe this is pure ignorance but I really need help understanding.
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9 12 valve the issue that I'm having is the truck in the summer months seems like everytime I come to a stop or it's in Drive or reverse it wants to stall on me if I bump the throttle just quick rapidly one time instead of just the truck reversing quickly or accelerating forward quickly if I'm in Drive it wants to just shut off on your and lately it's been getting worse to where I have to when I come to a stop put the truck in neutral and if I put it in neutral or Park I have no issues I can rub it all day long in the motor sounds healthy as can be only thing I did recently was change the adjustable fuel flow valve they call it up in front by the front of the motor and I replaced it with a torque tech which is supposedly supposed to come pre adjusted same as what the factory is that's what the directions say now this company is local from Michigan Holland and I am in Michigan that's about 3 hours from me and also I did a test on the valve that you can adjust for starting it and shutting it off and such forth I bought one from eBay because everybody else was too expensive I forget what the exact name of it is and I just recently bought a fuel filter and I'm going to clean the pre heater bowl of the fuel they say that it makes a big Improvement on speed and the way the truck runs and also somebody was saying that I don't know if it's the actual fuel filter diesel preheater that supposedly they said the housing can get a crack in it and does not seal properly with old o-ring or just a crack in it that you don't see and it is sucking air well if that was the case when you spray the engine down while it's running on all your injectors if it's sucking air it would definitely suck water into your engine and I would think sufficiently enough to where it would change or want to stall the engine if it was that big of a hole now I've never done anything to this truck I bought it 2 years ago it says $350 something thousand miles on the dash I don't know if that's true or not I never even did a Carfax on the truck I bought it because it ran good and but it's been giving me these issues since last summer and I bought it two winners ago and it seems kind of dog-ish pretty doggish out of the hole I've done water pump I've done thermostat I've changed the oil I even put a new turbo charger on it that was recently several months ago with failed I put the original size turbo back on and I have a little oil leak coming from somewhere also it seems like after about four or five months I'll have to add oil to the truck and I don't know if it's burning oil looks like sometimes it blows a little smoke especially in the winter time in the summer you can't really see it as much so but where I stand now was I just bought a fuel filter and I'm going to take off the pre filter for heating the fuel and I know you can delete it I'm going to keep it all original as of now and once I do them couple steps tomorrow hopefully that will help I've done a lot of research and they say that that helps tremendously I wouldn't think that running the truck every day with fuel through it the fuel filter would go bad anytime soon because diesels usually last a long time with the filter without having any damage so the next thing I would think is something to do with the pump or somehow are getting in to the system but I don't think that air is getting into the fuel system because you would know definitely a change if you sprayed water on it but anyhow any help or pointers of Direction on what you guys think this might be I don't think it's Governor Springs but it could possibly be what I be better off taking the pump to have it rebuilt or buying a remanufactured with a warranty Exedra let me know what your thoughts are on this like I said I thank you
Im not sure i understand your problem exactly but it sounds like your idle speed may be too low. Its a single bolt 10mm i think with a jam nut on the driver side of the pump towards the rear by governor. Looks up p pump idle adjustment on youtube to see exactly where it is. Hopefully this helps you out
I got a man engine with p pump. Its goes well on idle. But iff the rpm gos over idle, its goes on full trothel and its not gong back. Is the governor stuck?
Loved the video Don't know how familiar your are with a zexel injection pump for 3 cylinder kubota . Can't find anything on it. how can this pump be advanced . Thanks
Is it normal for my fuel gauge to show pressure loss when engine is off? I have 2 problems with my 12valve. First I always have to tap on the throttle when cranking or it won’t start. 2nd problem is that it will die when I put it into gear. I changed the TC same problem. Idles @ 1k rpm and 20psi fuel pressure. Any advice?
@@alanack67 I don't, it's what I have on hand. Can't find a Bosch P7100 for less than $2K these days. And forget about going to a wrecking yard to get one, they disappear as fast as they come in
I want to keep the fuel circulating electrically while the engine is off. Can it run through the P7100? Would opening the throttle allow this without flooding the cylinders?
Sure can. If the engine is shut down, then the p-pump isn't spinning, and isn't pumping any fuel to the injectors at all. No need to open the throttle (which technically there is no throttle). Assuming you're using an airdog lift pump or similar, fuel should flow continuously through the p-pump, and out the overflow valve and back to the tank, regardless if the p-pump is spinning or not.
Amazing how bosh went from directly making the P7100 , the most ingenious , reliable , aguabily best ever pump ever made to the biggest pos ever made the VP44
Amazing what changing emissions does to reliability isn't it.
The vp44 is awesome. Electronic>mechanical any day. The only people who hate vp44s are fucktards who don't maintain their lift pump. Or install an aftermarket one. Its all about the person driving and maintaining it.
@@benjaminturpin2749 sorry not trying to be an ass but you don’t know whats goin on , i got an 02 dodge bought it bran new still got it , with 50k miles always had 15 lbs of pressure , put fuel gauge on it the day i bought it changed out lift pumps when they even showed any signs of weakness on 3rd one now and guess what my injection pump is gone , so in 50k miles i went through 3 lift pumps and vp44 , also got a 98 12v. I bought in 2004 and still got it so it was fairly new and i put on 240k miles on her to date and not a issue , the VP44 is a piece of junk , theres a reason they make p pump conversation kits , ya don’t see anyone making a kit to put a VP44 on anything, you may want to be the first one to engineer one and become rich lol , ya wouldn’t sell one of em lol
I’d say the ve pump is genius. P pump is just special because it’s GIANT ASF
@@matthew7448 agree, but P-pump is more heavy duty
This is by far the most education video i have seen on the p7100 internals. No bs just learning
Thank you. This was very helpful. Every video tells you how to modify it but not how everything works together
I would just like to say, you are one of the only English speaking people to share this knowledge on youtube. This information is not easily discovered. Almost all bosch inline pumps operate like this. Someone with no experience in diesel mechanical governors etc need all the info they can get. I appreciate this video .. Now do a video on actually adjusting the pumps and fine tuning them
You need a test bench to adjust and turn up a p7100 properly
@@jarodmarch123 I ended up getting it pretty good within its limits without calibrating it on a bench it only took me months of fiddling to get it just right. Amazingly nothing was damaged in the process.
Never new the Ppump was so simple i was always convinced it was far more complex
It looks easy to tear down right xD I want to give it a try now
Excellent explanation for a total beginner! I look forward to learning more.
Thanks for shared this information
cool,, interesting video
Thanks for watching!
Love to see a video on how AFC mods affect pump tuning.
Taking out your fuel plate sliding your housing forward etc just gives it more rack travel increases how many mm of that 12mm stroke actually is in use like he said at idle 3 or so and up to 7 or so Max on a stock pump depending if it’s a 160-215 hp pump which is decided by year model and if it’s auto or manual etc so fully modded you could probably use 10 mm without taking the pump itself apart your star wheel adjustment just loosens or tightens how hard it is to fully compress the spring to get max rack travel that’s why loosening it off makes them smoke because it will push more fuel out before it has the air to consume all of that fuel because of the spring being lighter that extra fuel will make your turbo spool faster though in most situations I hope this answers your question atleast somewhat I’m no mechanic I’m a 16 year old with a diesel addiction and a 27 year old 2nd gen 12v with the 160 pump in it (it doesn’t make 160 anymore I learned all I know by working on it myself) there simple unique in a pickup and I love it the sound the power I could go on and on obviously Ima shut up now before I’m writing for 3 hours a whole book hope this helps with your question unfortunately can’t do a video because I don’t have the tools to actually pull my pump or I would to mod it further or I would once I get an afc live so I don’t absolutely fuck my fuel mileage
Yea I had to stop myself before I did write for 3 hours and confuse anyone who reads it lol
Ny govenor housong exploded today, judt on idle no bang or anything, i was bleeding injectors and got them all bled, went and shut the truck off and dropped my 3/4 wrench on the ground. Went to pick it up and i had peices of gpvenor housing and springs on the ground. What a bummer ive had the truck for 4 montjs only drove it for 5 minutes with all the issues now this
Thank you very much for this video. It's the first time I've seen any of the inside of this p7100. I have a '98 12 valve. I'm actually having a little issue that seems to have arisen. If I rev the engine unloaded it sort of shutters and puffs white smoke out the pipe but drives normally under load. I've also noticed that the feed pressure oscillates pretty violently, especially in the RPM range that the shuttering is occurring? I'm wondering if I just maybe have a crappy overflow valve and it's causing the pressure to oscillate heavily... I do have 3000 RPM springs and maybe need to go back and check that both sides are tensioned evenly.... Aside from that, just a number 10 plate minor tweaks and 5x12s with an HX40...
Can you measure the distance from the top of the plunger to the spill port helix at say idle, 20%-30%-50%-70%-80%-90%-100% rack travel? I have a dead 160 here I could take apart to check but I’d be curious to see if you have measured those or if you could? To look at injector on time at the different positions. Thank ya for the killer videos.
I snapped off the timing pin inside the pump. I really don't want to remove the pump or send the pump off to be rebuilt again. Any advice?
Thanks for this video
What would cause the p pump to leak fuel at the governor end?
Have you ever done a video on a 4bt P pump and a VE pump
what about the ggovernor spinny thinmg?
Nice! Any idea why mine would bounce between 1k and 1500 rpms at idle all of a sudden? Was holding steady at 850-900. I’m leaning towards governor unit failure unfortunately. What’s your opinion?
Does the :402 736 913 pump have a different cam that the 855 pump
What are the correct parameters for a Sino truck Howo injection pump at starting,Idle and maximum
I need parts. like a complete rebuild rods and bearings , everything. sources please?
Very informative
What about how the AFC housing works ?
I have a excavator with a 5.9 Cummins with a P3000 injection pump. Vintage is 1996. After changing fuel filters on this died out machine, I now cannot get fuel to the injectors by hand pumping the lift pump or starter cranking. I’m fairly certain I have all the air out of the system as I have good flow on the return line back to the fuel tank. I have pumped by hand for quite a long time cracking bango nuts and, one at a time, each injector line. I have checked the return ball and spring and they seem fine. I make sure the solenoid open while I hand pump. Could I have more issues going on inside the main pump itself or could it be a weak lift pump? I understand these P pumps are quite robust. I’m trying to avoid pulling off the main pump if it could be something simple that I’m missing. I have not replaced the lift pump yet but will if this could be the culprit. The machine was running excellent until it just slowly died out and stopped.
Can the ppump leak fuel in the oil?
Thanks!
What are the big differences between the Chinese version of the 4BTP pump and say a genuine Bosch pump? There’s literally a $3000 price and I just don’t understand how it can be worth it when these are fairly simple and old design. Maybe this is pure ignorance but I really need help understanding.
👍👍
Hi
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9 12 valve the issue that I'm having is the truck in the summer months seems like everytime I come to a stop or it's in Drive or reverse it wants to stall on me if I bump the throttle just quick rapidly one time instead of just the truck reversing quickly or accelerating forward quickly if I'm in Drive it wants to just shut off on your and lately it's been getting worse to where I have to when I come to a stop put the truck in neutral and if I put it in neutral or Park I have no issues I can rub it all day long in the motor sounds healthy as can be only thing I did recently was change the adjustable fuel flow valve they call it up in front by the front of the motor and I replaced it with a torque tech which is supposedly supposed to come pre adjusted same as what the factory is that's what the directions say now this company is local from Michigan Holland and I am in Michigan that's about 3 hours from me and also I did a test on the valve that you can adjust for starting it and shutting it off and such forth I bought one from eBay because everybody else was too expensive I forget what the exact name of it is and I just recently bought a fuel filter and I'm going to clean the pre heater bowl of the fuel they say that it makes a big Improvement on speed and the way the truck runs and also somebody was saying that I don't know if it's the actual fuel filter diesel preheater that supposedly they said the housing can get a crack in it and does not seal properly with old o-ring or just a crack in it that you don't see and it is sucking air well if that was the case when you spray the engine down while it's running on all your injectors if it's sucking air it would definitely suck water into your engine and I would think sufficiently enough to where it would change or want to stall the engine if it was that big of a hole now I've never done anything to this truck I bought it 2 years ago it says $350 something thousand miles on the dash I don't know if that's true or not I never even did a Carfax on the truck I bought it because it ran good and but it's been giving me these issues since last summer and I bought it two winners ago and it seems kind of dog-ish pretty doggish out of the hole I've done water pump I've done thermostat I've changed the oil I even put a new turbo charger on it that was recently several months ago with failed I put the original size turbo back on and I have a little oil leak coming from somewhere also it seems like after about four or five months I'll have to add oil to the truck and I don't know if it's burning oil looks like sometimes it blows a little smoke especially in the winter time in the summer you can't really see it as much so but where I stand now was I just bought a fuel filter and I'm going to take off the pre filter for heating the fuel and I know you can delete it I'm going to keep it all original as of now and once I do them couple steps tomorrow hopefully that will help I've done a lot of research and they say that that helps tremendously I wouldn't think that running the truck every day with fuel through it the fuel filter would go bad anytime soon because diesels usually last a long time with the filter without having any damage so the next thing I would think is something to do with the pump or somehow are getting in to the system but I don't think that air is getting into the fuel system because you would know definitely a change if you sprayed water on it but anyhow any help or pointers of Direction on what you guys think this might be I don't think it's Governor Springs but it could possibly be what I be better off taking the pump to have it rebuilt or buying a remanufactured with a warranty Exedra let me know what your thoughts are on this like I said I thank you
Im not sure i understand your problem exactly but it sounds like your idle speed may be too low. Its a single bolt 10mm i think with a jam nut on the driver side of the pump towards the rear by governor. Looks up p pump idle adjustment on youtube to see exactly where it is. Hopefully this helps you out
I got a man engine with p pump. Its goes well on idle. But iff the rpm gos over idle, its goes on full trothel and its not gong back. Is the governor stuck?
What causes a no idle below 900 rpms when fuel is at proper psi going into injector pump? Thanks
Governor springs need replacing or adjusting.
the p-pump dont have advance timing?
Nope, static timing.
Loved the video
Don't know how familiar your are with a zexel injection pump for 3 cylinder kubota . Can't find anything on it. how can this pump be advanced . Thanks
Is it normal for my fuel gauge to show pressure loss when engine is off? I have 2 problems with my 12valve. First I always have to tap on the throttle when cranking or it won’t start. 2nd problem is that it will die when I put it into gear. I changed the TC same problem. Idles @ 1k rpm and 20psi fuel pressure. Any advice?
I increased the idle to try to compensate from it always dying out when I put it in gear.
How can I know the first piston is top when I want to put the pump on engine I mean the timing
Spill port timing
How do you make a 8.3L P-Pump work on a 5.9L?
I think the dodge 5.9 pumps flow
more
@@alanack67 What about the oil feed lines?
@@merlepatterson why do you want to put a crappy industrial pump on a 5.9?
@@alanack67 I don't, it's what I have on hand. Can't find a Bosch P7100 for less than $2K these days. And forget about going to a wrecking yard to get one, they disappear as fast as they come in
I want to keep the fuel circulating electrically while the engine is off. Can it run through the P7100? Would opening the throttle allow this without flooding the cylinders?
Sure can. If the engine is shut down, then the p-pump isn't spinning, and isn't pumping any fuel to the injectors at all. No need to open the throttle (which technically there is no throttle).
Assuming you're using an airdog lift pump or similar, fuel should flow continuously through the p-pump, and out the overflow valve and back to the tank, regardless if the p-pump is spinning or not.
@Jason Owens fuel won't flow through the mechanical lift pump so that would need to be bypassed as well. This is an excavator with a 97ish 5.9.
I got a question