Finally!!! A detailed show and tell on the p pump conversion on a 24 valve. My 2002, high output with a 6 speed is literally waiting for this. I have sent the computer in for repairs twice. I have swapped the vp44 with a Blue Chip diesel unit. Nothing ended up being a permanent fix. It’s p pump time. Can’t wait for the rest of this series. Keep up the great work
Ugh, sorry to hear it’s been a nightmare! VP trucks are weird, I have a lot of good ones that just work, and then there’s the odd one that is just a nightmare where the only solution is a swift death or p pump swap! Haha Glad you’re enjoying the series, stay tuned for more!
Sorry about the delay for the next videos, got busy with holidays and other work… slackin’ on the video production over here! Should’ve gotten them done on holidays!!
I found this video searching for what the AFC does. Currently gathering parts for my vp44 delete. I dont think you went over the parts needed for the air solenoid or the p pump overflow valve. Those are the only two things I am having trouble finding info on haha.
I'm going to have to come back to this video and make a pinned comment covering the additional things I forgot. For the air reference to the AFC what I like to do is run "Push to connect" fittings with a 1/8th (IIRC) air line. You'll have a fitting on the AFC, and the other fitting you'll put into the back of the intake elbow. With regards to the overflow valve, you CAN run the VP44 overflow, it'll work fine, just verify your fuel pressure as they are set to open up earlier. Or get a tork tek overflow valve. I also cover making the return line in the assembly video part 2 (soon to be released)
So the FSS has a relay on the engine harness that normally bolts to the firewall (approximately inline with where the fuel filter is), there’s a pin in that relay (red with a black tracer if I remember correctly, it’s white on the FSS) that you jump with a wire going to the brown wire for your starter (or the starter relay in the fuse box, there’s many options), that pulls the FSS up when you start the truck.
👍👍have got most of the parts from a donor engine round here to do this... gotta find a truck worthy of the effort 🤣🤣..thank you for your videos..see ya next time feller 👊🇺🇸
Honestly, I just run the stock tappet cover haha! Never had any issues, just make sure that the gasket and block is dry, red loctite the bolts, and torque them down Shitty deal with the billet cover, it’s not fun to change and even worse having to redo it Was it one of those Amazon ones? A couple buddies have ran them with no issues, the only thing I gotta say is that most don’t have any sort of CCV filter on them so if you just hook a tube up they will dump oil out
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge personally ordered it from BD diesel. The bolts don't seem to want to stay torqued and I think the gasket blew in less than 200 km. I'm just letting it leak untill I do the cab swap and 12 v conversion. Sure is frustrating when that shop costed me 6 grand somehow damaging 2 vp44 pumps. Just want it to stop leaking ffs lol tha KS for the tip. Shiney don't always mean better eh?
Great information good parts selected and nice 2nd gen! Interested in seeing how this runs afterwards. Please upgrade your microphone I had my volume maxed out and still having trouble hearing you.
Ah darn! I had toned them down because it seemed really loud on my computer (recently found out about a audio normalization feature in my editor), I’ll see if I can edit noise in the RUclips editor maybe…
What are the best injectors to run for a 215 pump swap into the 24valve. I'm not after crazy horsepower just good trailer pulling power. This will be my work/daily driver. Thanks. Love your videos
You could go with a set of 100hp injectors, like. 7x.009, combined with the 215 pump, hx35, fuel plate, and some 3k gov you should have a nice clean 300hp. There’s no need to re-pop the injectors to p pump pop, I set all my injectors to 300 BAR as it helps with atomization and smoke control. Make sure you have an EGT gauge aswell to play things safe. Also about 16 to 18* timing would be good, or just stock 14.5* timing if you wanted to see if you were happy with that
I love your video but nobody’s been able to give me a straight answer everybody I talk to. I have a donor motor for my truck. I have a 98 Dodge with a 24 valve I have a donor motor that is a complete 12 valve. Can I just swap the motors and be done with it
Yup, the 12 valve will bolt right in. You’ll need the throttle linkage assembly and throttle cable for the 12v, as well as a 1998 12v pcm and engine harness so that the dash will work
It’s tough to put a real figure on it as there’s multiple ways you can go about it. I could do one for as cheap as $2000, or as expensive as $7500. Such as how much you get a pump for, do you get a donor 12v or buy a new gearcase/gear, do you go with new injection lines or rebent VP lines, use 12v throttle linkage or run a APPS adaptor, build your own p pump oil feed or buy one, and so on I would recommend looking over the video for some of the options, picking what you think would align with the way you would do the swap, and then pricing things out :)
Up in Alberta we’re lucky to find a clean second gen period, nevermind a 98 12v! There’s many bonus’ to starting with a 01-02 24v though, such as you can get the 6 speed trans, more common to get leather interior, disc brakes, sport package, better front brakes and in 02 a non CAD diff
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge I'm in Calgary picked up 98 4x4 extends cab long box 420000 $5500.00 in Edmonton last year, I call it rusty lol,good channel ! Where does a guy get doors? Lol
Finally!!! A detailed show and tell on the p pump conversion on a 24 valve. My 2002, high output with a 6 speed is literally waiting for this. I have sent the computer in for repairs twice. I have swapped the vp44 with a Blue Chip diesel unit. Nothing ended up being a permanent fix. It’s p pump time. Can’t wait for the rest of this series. Keep up the great work
Ugh, sorry to hear it’s been a nightmare! VP trucks are weird, I have a lot of good ones that just work, and then there’s the odd one that is just a nightmare where the only solution is a swift death or p pump swap! Haha
Glad you’re enjoying the series, stay tuned for more!
You make some of the best informational videos for 2nd gens!
I appreciate that! I’ve got lots more planned :)
Love the videos man!! when's part 5 ? Also would love to see a video on how to check piston to valve clearance
Sorry about the delay for the next videos, got busy with holidays and other work… slackin’ on the video production over here! Should’ve gotten them done on holidays!!
I would like this just to have the reliability of no electronics.
I found this video searching for what the AFC does. Currently gathering parts for my vp44 delete. I dont think you went over the parts needed for the air solenoid or the p pump overflow valve. Those are the only two things I am having trouble finding info on haha.
I'm going to have to come back to this video and make a pinned comment covering the additional things I forgot.
For the air reference to the AFC what I like to do is run "Push to connect" fittings with a 1/8th (IIRC) air line. You'll have a fitting on the AFC, and the other fitting you'll put into the back of the intake elbow.
With regards to the overflow valve, you CAN run the VP44 overflow, it'll work fine, just verify your fuel pressure as they are set to open up earlier. Or get a tork tek overflow valve. I also cover making the return line in the assembly video part 2 (soon to be released)
17:11 could you tell me what wire I need to jump???
So the FSS has a relay on the engine harness that normally bolts to the firewall (approximately inline with where the fuel filter is), there’s a pin in that relay (red with a black tracer if I remember correctly, it’s white on the FSS) that you jump with a wire going to the brown wire for your starter (or the starter relay in the fuse box, there’s many options), that pulls the FSS up when you start the truck.
Nice ride! Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it! It is a really nice truck, nice to work on something clean for a change haha
👍👍have got most of the parts from a donor engine round here to do this... gotta find a truck worthy of the effort 🤣🤣..thank you for your videos..see ya next time feller 👊🇺🇸
Bah! Build the engine and just shove it in any ol’ junker, call it a sleeper race truck!
Hey recommendations for the tapet cover? I did get a billet cover but it leaked from day one. Even after with bolts at torque spec.
Honestly, I just run the stock tappet cover haha! Never had any issues, just make sure that the gasket and block is dry, red loctite the bolts, and torque them down
Shitty deal with the billet cover, it’s not fun to change and even worse having to redo it
Was it one of those Amazon ones? A couple buddies have ran them with no issues, the only thing I gotta say is that most don’t have any sort of CCV filter on them so if you just hook a tube up they will dump oil out
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge personally ordered it from BD diesel. The bolts don't seem to want to stay torqued and I think the gasket blew in less than 200 km. I'm just letting it leak untill I do the cab swap and 12 v conversion. Sure is frustrating when that shop costed me 6 grand somehow damaging 2 vp44 pumps. Just want it to stop leaking ffs lol tha KS for the tip. Shiney don't always mean better eh?
Need to figure out a way to plunger pump my 6.5 v8
Great information good parts selected and nice 2nd gen! Interested in seeing how this runs afterwards. Please upgrade your microphone I had my volume maxed out and still having trouble hearing you.
Ah darn! I had toned them down because it seemed really loud on my computer (recently found out about a audio normalization feature in my editor), I’ll see if I can edit noise in the RUclips editor maybe…
What are the best injectors to run for a 215 pump swap into the 24valve. I'm not after crazy horsepower just good trailer pulling power. This will be my work/daily driver. Thanks. Love your videos
You could go with a set of 100hp injectors, like. 7x.009, combined with the 215 pump, hx35, fuel plate, and some 3k gov you should have a nice clean 300hp.
There’s no need to re-pop the injectors to p pump pop, I set all my injectors to 300 BAR as it helps with atomization and smoke control.
Make sure you have an EGT gauge aswell to play things safe.
Also about 16 to 18* timing would be good, or just stock 14.5* timing if you wanted to see if you were happy with that
Cool channel. Thanks for sharing you're knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Great info
Glad it was helpful!
I love your video but nobody’s been able to give me a straight answer everybody I talk to. I have a donor motor for my truck. I have a 98 Dodge with a 24 valve I have a donor motor that is a complete 12 valve. Can I just swap the motors and be done with it
Yup, the 12 valve will bolt right in. You’ll need the throttle linkage assembly and throttle cable for the 12v, as well as a 1998 12v pcm and engine harness so that the dash will work
Dang that guy sunk a ton of money into that truck.
Can you add a part number for the cam sensor adapoer
P7100-SWAP-CAM-ADAPTER for 2001-2002
P7100-SWAP-CAM-ADAPTER-98.5-00 for 98-00
That’s literally the codes off crazy carls website lol
Just finished my swap and I'm getting a no bus message no gauges and no lift pump voltage
whats the cost for a build like this
Most likely a wife leaving you 😂
How much is it to do the swap
It’s tough to put a real figure on it as there’s multiple ways you can go about it.
I could do one for as cheap as $2000, or as expensive as $7500. Such as how much you get a pump for, do you get a donor 12v or buy a new gearcase/gear, do you go with new injection lines or rebent VP lines, use 12v throttle linkage or run a APPS adaptor, build your own p pump oil feed or buy one, and so on
I would recommend looking over the video for some of the options, picking what you think would align with the way you would do the swap, and then pricing things out :)
Couldn't find a 98?
Up in Alberta we’re lucky to find a clean second gen period, nevermind a 98 12v!
There’s many bonus’ to starting with a 01-02 24v though, such as you can get the 6 speed trans, more common to get leather interior, disc brakes, sport package, better front brakes and in 02 a non CAD diff
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge I'm in Calgary picked up 98 4x4 extends cab long box 420000 $5500.00 in Edmonton last year, I call it rusty lol,good channel ! Where does a guy get doors? Lol
7234 Daugherty Creek
9306 Mayert Island