It's been 40k miles on my total Delete It now has a DIY large area 4"X7" PVC Catch Can with 1"ID enter and exit ports large 2" deep reservoir with a 1/4 ball valve to drain at the bottom 2 well-ported baffle plates and filled from the top of the lower a baffle plate to the exit port with SS wool like pot-scrubbing pads. PS On the inlet I have a 90% ported tube directing the CCV to the bottom and spreading the gas and sewage goo through the Can and SS wool that will then drip to the bottom and collect in the reservoir then drained on servicing day or as needed. I found mounting it on the outside right-side frame rail below the passenger with exhaust saddles and Ubolts. No more engine sewage mixing with my perfectly metered Air Fuel ratio. Messing with the best HP and MPG. Using 1" tubing keeps the CCV gas venting moving through and out the Catch Can you don't want any pressure building up in the crankcase. You want that shit to flow freely out. Or you will have issues with seals and valve covers. Front and rear mains and turbo seals can be a "B"
Good job. I took the inner fender out it just gave more light and made it easier to get that lower cooler out but getting more light in there was the bonus it's so tight it's hard to see.
I’ll be taking the valve cover off here in the future to look at a cylinder 2 contribution code so I’ll have to rip the inner fender out then. Maybe I’ll finish removing that bottom cooler then too. Thanks for the tips.
I heard that if you take the time to remove the inner fender left side. It will make that lower cooler much easer. As well when you hook up the block off plates. Let us know.
I've watched another video doing the same job and neither showed the EGR coming off. I'm wondering if it's so easy that it isn't shown, or it's so difficult it gets broke, and it gets edited out to avoid any ridicule.
Try a 1/4 drive extension on that block off bolt then once it gets started put the ratchet to it push one side give it a turn push it give it a turn you get the idea
Can’t exactly remember the hours. I would have to say at least four maybe five. The kit was great came with everything you needed and even spare O-rings in case in the future you have to replace the ones that are on it.
Truck was already dpf deleted prior with a tune. But when I got it the tune was deleted and back to factory. I have a video about trying to use sct for the tune but it bricked my computer. So had to get ez lynk.
Haven’t heard of that trick yet. Electrical tape has worked for me thus far. Less messy too I would assume. But hey, now I got more tricks to use if need be. Thanks!
It's been 40k miles on my total Delete It now has a DIY large area 4"X7" PVC Catch Can with 1"ID enter and exit ports large 2" deep reservoir with a 1/4 ball valve to drain at the bottom 2 well-ported baffle plates and filled from the top of the lower a baffle plate to the exit port with SS wool like pot-scrubbing pads. PS On the inlet I have a 90% ported tube directing the CCV to the bottom and spreading the gas and sewage goo through the Can and SS wool that will then drip to the bottom and collect in the reservoir then drained on servicing day or as needed. I found mounting it on the outside right-side frame rail below the passenger with exhaust saddles and Ubolts. No more engine sewage mixing with my perfectly metered Air Fuel ratio. Messing with the best HP and MPG. Using 1" tubing keeps the CCV gas venting moving through and out the Catch Can you don't want any pressure building up in the crankcase. You want that shit to flow freely out. Or you will have issues with seals and valve covers. Front and rear mains and turbo seals can be a "B"
Good job. I took the inner fender out it just gave more light and made it easier to get that lower cooler out but getting more light in there was the bonus it's so tight it's hard to see.
I’ll be taking the valve cover off here in the future to look at a cylinder 2 contribution code so I’ll have to rip the inner fender out then. Maybe I’ll finish removing that bottom cooler then too. Thanks for the tips.
I heard that if you take the time to remove the inner fender left side. It will make that lower cooler much easer. As well when you hook up the block off plates. Let us know.
Sm pin bar 6" to align the bolt holes in the sm pieces. Also Vaseline on o rings ...good video 😊
I've watched another video doing the same job and neither showed the EGR coming off. I'm wondering if it's so easy that it isn't shown, or it's so difficult it gets broke, and it gets edited out to avoid any ridicule.
Try a 1/4 drive extension on that block off bolt then once it gets started put the ratchet to it push one side give it a turn push it give it a turn you get the idea
You should get the morimoto replacement rad support and radiator
Agreed. That’s on the list for sure.
How many hrs did it take to do the job? Any problems ? Are you happy with the kit ,?
Can’t exactly remember the hours. I would have to say at least four maybe five. The kit was great came with everything you needed and even spare O-rings in case in the future you have to replace the ones that are on it.
What about the computer? Did you have to do anything or tune it to run as egr valve deleted?
Yes the truck needed a tune. Watch my other video explaining that.
Where is your video on tuning after egr delete
Truck was already dpf deleted prior with a tune. But when I got it the tune was deleted and back to factory. I have a video about trying to use sct for the tune but it bricked my computer. So had to get ez lynk.
What kit ? Link ?
Evil energy off of Amazon. a.co/d/f4fJyeb
You need to hose down that dirty engine before you start a job like this.
Agreed. It was cleaned after.
Are you going to delete the DPF system as well.
That’s been deleted from the previous owner. Straight 4”.
Toilet bowl wax in the socket to retain the bolt.
Haven’t heard of that trick yet. Electrical tape has worked for me thus far. Less messy too I would assume. But hey, now I got more tricks to use if need be. Thanks!
@@hollywoodsgarage good video brohammer