Thanks for the video. Could you please add links to the flux and solder you are using? I have the video playing on my TV and volume 100 but I couldn't understand the words
Hi, I have a 1999 1.9tdi new beetle. The fuel level indicator, the speed indicator and the temperature clock in the top middle of the car broke at the same time. But when the weather is cold, the temperature indicator starts working at the same moment as the speed indicator starts working. When it's hot, nothing works. What do you think could be the problem?
Hey.. just a heads up: I talked to you about fixing the "APP2" pid (accelerator pedal) dropping out every few seconds on a 2010 Dodge Nitro PCM.. Well, I talked to Ivan, Eric-O and scanner Danner (youtuber diag mechanics) and they all said that it's normal. Apparently it's common for dodge to send out a "testing" signal every few seconds and even though it looks random on the scanner, it's only because it doesn't have enough resolution.. and if you hook it to a scope/ pico, etc. You can see that it's a very regular pulse and it's supposed to be there.... So good to know. You could scope that yourself the next time you're messing with a dodge PCM.. It only does it on the APP2 pid and not APP1. (which are the dual sensors in an accelerator pedal, for redundancy --- as you likely already know).
Thank you. I now have my odometer working.
Great detective work mate.cheers
Thanks for the video. Could you please add links to the flux and solder you are using? I have the video playing on my TV and volume 100 but I couldn't understand the words
Flux I use kester liquid 1544(rosin) & 951(non-rosin) or amtech paste. For solder I use REL22 from AIM.
Hi, I have a 1999 1.9tdi new beetle. The fuel level indicator, the speed indicator and the temperature clock in the top middle of the car broke at the same time. But when the weather is cold, the temperature indicator starts working at the same moment as the speed indicator starts working. When it's hot, nothing works. What do you think could be the problem?
Hey.. just a heads up: I talked to you about fixing the "APP2" pid (accelerator pedal) dropping out every few seconds on a 2010 Dodge Nitro PCM.. Well, I talked to Ivan, Eric-O and scanner Danner (youtuber diag mechanics) and they all said that it's normal. Apparently it's common for dodge to send out a "testing" signal every few seconds and even though it looks random on the scanner, it's only because it doesn't have enough resolution.. and if you hook it to a scope/ pico, etc. You can see that it's a very regular pulse and it's supposed to be there.... So good to know. You could scope that yourself the next time you're messing with a dodge PCM.. It only does it on the APP2 pid and not APP1. (which are the dual sensors in an accelerator pedal, for redundancy --- as you likely already know).
thanks for the info
A mi new beetle se le quemo o derritio el plastico que protege la pantallita, al quitarselo no se ven los numeros, venden esa pieza????
Ussually I resolder everything , it works but is a pain ...
What kind of solder is did u say?
rel22 from AIM aimsolder.com/products/solder-alloys/rel22-high-reliability-lead-free-solder-alloy
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hello your webpage autoelectro to buy the j2534 chrysler do you have paypal thank you
No sorry, I dont have paypal set up on that site. Just square.