If it’s not rotted out, it’s worth DIY fixing … most of the trim parts you can get from a scrapper, the rest you can buy over a parts counter and fit yourself (or a mate can) for 400 to 500 quid. The headlamps will polish up like new, plenty of tutorials on the toob for that. For 17 years, I’ve owned what is now a 27 year old Land Cruiser currently with over 500k kms on the clock, still going strong. I love it! ❤️🇷🇴
Haha, what the car dealers hate the most. I don't wanna pay for their glass palaces and the secretary hookers with fake boobs and long fingernails. Same with the motorcycle and the bike... strictly no dealership visits.
For my two pence. I think that we watch your channel because you do complete work on these cars - like with the Jag etc. You would never get it fixed at a main dealer so their price is always replace and not repair. I also think that there might be some businesses out there that if featured on the channel might be happy to assist with the repair of certain items - a trimmer for the headlining, someone else for some of the faults like the ABS and the stereo etc. Then, £500 major service would cover many of the other things listed. I would keep watching to see you continue on this path.
Getting sponsorship, whilst helping the channel, is knida "cheating" , it means then that we couldn't viably do the same repairs to vehicles because we would be paying for EVERYTHING oyrselves... I hate watching channels where they get so much sponsorship, the channel just becomes an advert compilation for said sponsors... lets try to keep it real please... its why your subscribers are to watch your channel.. 🙂👍
Now let a decent Volvo Indy look over it and give you a quote, The previous owner of my 2003 V70 D5 used Fishers in Gloucester who seem good for all his maintenance in the 7 years he owned it and the car still runs faultless 70K miles later in my hands with the extensive repairs that they carried out using gen Volvo parts (DMF, Clutch, Intercooler, Injector's rebuilt etc) Also send the dash cluster to Revtronic's for a repair, I thought my V70 cluster was scrap when it went pixelated on the digital displays but they repaired it with a lifetime guarantee for £80! And it's still working perfectly 3 years later! 👌
@@richard3004 The XC90 isn't rare but this spec is. To the right Volvo person it would be a good second car or towing rig. And plenty of people drive rotten old Volvos - they're miles better than most other rotten old cars
@@benjamindoyle668 No one wants them. Certainly no one in London or Greater London from 29th August. Additionally no one in their right mind will want that with that mileage not without an MOT. If you try to repair / fix it up it will be impossible to get as much as you pay out on it. Worth at max £350 which is the price of scrap.
We love the channel because of the way you present and put right these older cars. NO way is it a dead loss, Volvo main dealer make out that it's horrendous, remember when you went to Audi and they said 2k to put right, you can get this to an acceptable level Joel easy.
That list was nowhere near as bad as it could have been, you've got a good base to work with, fix it up, give it some love and it will serve you for many more miles to come.
It’s the engine every Volvo owner wants, they go for ever and are silky smooth, powerful and have character. So much nicer than the 4 cylinder soulless things available now. Some savvy eBay purchases and a bit of spannering will see it good for a good few years. My 90000 mile 13 year old xc70 is not even run in yet!!
Not too bad at all, 4 tyres,a good service at an independent volvo specialist and you need to find a similar aged xc90 at a volvo breakers,so well worth doing,then just the wheels and the body to have a good buff.
I also think most of the amount they quoted was shop time, as the parts are all pretty straightforward to swap, but getting them out is a bit of a puzzle (particularly in the interior) and having to do that with every individual part will start adding up. It can quickly be 2 or 3 days of work. Interior jobs are absolutely worth the effort if you can do them on your own free time. Parts are cheap and plentiful, and shop time is expensive.
All of that is doable. Polish up the headlights, get broken bits from a breaker. Do ABS rings at the same time as lower wishbones, as you have to take the driveshafts out anyway. Do the safety and MOT stuff first, then cosmetics bit by bit afterwards.
I can’t believe a main dealer would do this health check for free. This is exceptional. The guy on the phone couldn’t sell eggs to an omelette factory though! It really wasn’t a horrific list. You can do loads of this work yourself and find yourself a decent scrapyard for the cosmetic bits. I hope Volvo HW noted this is an “Executive” model and gave kudos for the green over-mats.
They often do health checks for free. Good PR and in the case of this good publicity. Often the customer authorises the work too, so good for business.
@@itsjoel Do you remember the Volvo Ad ( A 20 year old Volvo and five of its contemporaries (which were rusted and squashed , the Volvo (amazon ? ) was still going (advert date about 1983 ?)
you could put that right yourself for £500, 4 tyres £100, headlining £120, mirror covers X 2 £40, headlights will clean up, if not scrap yard 2 for £90, DIY means Volvo don't get £4K labour charges, its a keeper and will give you many years of service, you can do this a bit each weekend on your drive and have it minted in one month,
Joel, just take it to Terry at Swedish Car Clinic just up the A41 from you in Aylesbury. Upper Barn Farm Ind park just after On Yer Bike. They keep our 160,000 mile XC90 going and are expert independent Volvo specialists. Also an MOT centre. Do not lose hope !
Ouch. I for one would be interested to see how much it costs to get through an MOT. I think this kind of decision is quite representative of the choices most of us have to make. The liking the car and all its foibles, followed by the sudden noise that appears a few months before the MOT is due to run out. I’ve gone through the last 3 years with my 407 coupe, thinking its doomed and then finding that I can fix it myself or find a cheaper garage. Sorted my ABS and airbag sensor last month by fiddling about under the seat with some contact cleaner spray. Loving the channel.
Meh, it's not like the car would fail its MOT for cracked dash trim and the head liner sagging. A lot of the issues identified are pretty much cosmetic, I don't think there's much MOT drama here beyond the tyres and brakes.
That sounded a reasonable quote. I took my Volvo 850 to our dealer in Hong Kong for a free checkup and they came back with an absolutely ludicrous price for every little thing under the sun of which I only had them change out the cracked engine mounts. -Car lasted another ten years with minimal work.
There will be a whole lot of entertainment in watching you work on your car with no help. Even if you don’t know what your doing and get bits wrong, it’s still great youtube. Love the channel. Keep the videos coming.
Joel, I know you’ve advertised this car, but there is so much love for it in the comments and it would make great content. If you reconsider I’d happily help you out with the spanner work
I would not consider it all that bad. I do my own suspension work however it's not always easy and you really require a fair number of tools to separate ball joints etc. The biggest problem with this stuff is when something goes wrong. You really need a private space to work on so you can walk away if things start going wrong. The other factor to consider is obtaing quality parts, many parts even ones with a name on them will not even last a year. What is very concerning is the poor quality of parts from local suppliers who supply local garages and tyre shops etc.
Don't take anything to a main dealer unless its to keep the warranty happy etc, everything else go to specialist. I worked in main dealers for 30 years, all of the horror stories, upselling, bodges, work not done but charged for is all true.
I own a V70 that has done roughly the same mileage. The age and use do show, but not all that bad: Doorcards slightly rattly, soft-touch surfaces worn, etc. But since I always keep up on the vital services and repairs, while some certified Volvo dealership might not agree, the car is always good to go and never left me stranded.
My best British friend that I met in Uni at Lancaster Uni in the UK in the 1990’s, now lives in High Wycombe (I’m from Indiana, in the US). I’ve been there several times.
All sounded quite reasonable. The cosmetic parts you can pick up as you see them. Personally, I would get the wheel's refurbished. My 2010 XC70 (90,000 miles) has just had it's annual service and MOT - new brake pads all round, new rear coil springs and full service - the bill was £1300 at an independent Volvo garage.
The new Volvos are very nice. This car seems to only have a couple of optional extras and it’s the base level trim. When you spec them up well you can make them amazing. The B3 is the least powerful engine and B means it’s a mild hybrid
These new Volvos are just not Volvos. They do not drive like it. The visibility is miserable. The ergonomics are simply ludicrous. I will stay with my 1990 240 estate that Ma bought new. Only 400,000 miles on the clock and still running like new.
It's all easily repairable, and at least you don't have any rot to weld up. Start with the major items that are obviously needed for the MOT pass. The rest would be on an, as and when funds and help allow. The entertainment system could be an expense, but a used or aftermarket system could be a cheaper option. It's still got a lot of miles in it, and it's too good to break.
Well worth bringing back as long as its not at dealer rates. The headlights may respond to a clean with very fine wet and dry and then some cutting compound. The wheels still hold air and appear to be in balance so could do just tyres. The MOT will be the clincher and how much time and money to end up with good to go, but high miles car. On my mates volvo 740 estate we removed the cloth of the headliner.,hoovered the surface , sealed it with pva and then painted 2 coats of vinyl matt emulsion. Lets just say it was la lot less annoying and easier than replacing or removing and resticking new cloth .
If I was looking at any vehicle at an auction which has the first letter of the registration plate starting with a S the first thing I would do is look at the chassis for rot, having a scottish registration plate usually means underbody rust issues, in my opinion it's worth scrap money with that mileage.
I have a 2011 XC90, it went into Volvo recently to have the Polestar Optimisation done, they did a free health check, the two rear indicator bulbs, the orange has started cracking on them so they recommended I get them replaced, they wanted £70 to replace 2x bulbs that you can get for about 80p. I've recently done a service on mine including fuel filter and the mpg has shot up since.
One of the best cars I ever drove was the Volvo GL 250 Estate with the big red block engine. Never had any issues with it at all ! Company car but I really looked after it! Sad when it was replaced.
We had a similar situation with a Peugeot dealer wanting thousands when it took less than £500 to resolve what really needed fixing. Keep up the good work
In the words of high peaks auto, get her fixed and keep it of the scrap heap, that will be more environmentally friendly then it would be to get it scraped
Those headlights can be saved mate, my stepson has a 350z that had headlights in similar condition. If needed I'd be able to help you getting them back to good condition again if needed. Great content as usual by the way 👍
Considering the replacement for a new (or newer AC90), I would fix what needs to be fixed and keep it safe, I would just fix it. I have just over 200,000 on my 06 XC90 and just had the second timing belt/water pump replaced my only issue is it is stuck in Park and I found a few go arounds for that. My CLOSEST dealer is 5 hours away. I live in BFE Montana. I'll have to go and check out our second video.
These things are money pits. No question. You see lots of them around and as they get older they get increasingly expensive to keep running well. My Volvo V70 is almost 20 years old now and it’s going well, but every time something needs fixing it’s €500. In fact last May I spent €850on maintenance which included timing belt kit, water pump, serpentine belt and brand new alternator. A service on top of that is another €150. Rear discs are next and I’d like to replace the steering rack as it’s weeping and feels a little lumpy when doing low speed manoeuvres like parking. It’s still a great car and with only 92,000 miles on the 2.0T manual.
I bought a 2014 V70 D4 2 litre Ulez 2 years ago with 160k. It’s bodily in great Nick but I soon found out it it consumes copious amounts of engine oil. .5litre to circa 800miles. There’s no black smoke at all and it always passes it’s MoT emissions. In comparison my previous 3x 2 litre diesel Passats with mega miles NEVER used oil between changes. I have read much forum chat about this and it appears the piston rings of this generation are very ‘slack’ and do not require a ring compressor to fit the pistons, I guess to reduce friction and achieve Ulez targets. Wish I’d read about it before buying 🤪
Ive had my 2008 V50 SE 2.0d (EURO3 without a DPF) since 06/2015. Its been great, very reliable and economical (gets 53MPG average calculated annually). 2 significant failures were the alternator at 145K miles/ 10 years old, then the starter motor failed recently at 180K miles/ 15 years old. Ive replaced the front LCAs and front wheel bearings but I consider that to be "wear & tear" more than a failure. Timing belt done at Volvo main dealer in Ireland at 144k miles/ 10 years old. I drove to Moscow from Dublin last August and returned in April this year (2023).... Invested in decent snow/ winter tyres, replaced coolant with 100% undiluted arctic spec coolant, also had to use special arctic specscreen wash. The diesel in Russia has special anti gel additives during winter (the price of diesel goes up 10% in winter because of the cost of the winter additives!). The old girl would start every morning down to about -18°C.... Any colder than that and the battery struggled to turn the engine over fast enough to fire up. Every year I think about trading her in but Id have to spend alot of money to get anything of similar comfort, spec or economy, so now that she has a fresh MOT- I will be keeping her on the road forq at least 1 more year! Im off to Spain for the winter next week, the climate is more forgiving than Russian winters! The only prep she really needs is air con re-gassing and a set of summer tyres. Im gonna scour ebay for a set of used wheels & tyres because the paint is flaking off the original wheels (harsh anti freeze chemicals used on the roads in Russia really destroy paint and corrode metal fast!) .... Its cheaper to buy a set of wheels & tyres than it is to buy a set of 4 new tyres and scruffy, flaky wheels really let the car down, she has good paint & body condition except for the flaky alloy wheels.
This is a great example of why you don't take an old car anywhere near a main dealer. They judge everything based on the condition of a new car, they often invent work, and their labour rates are extortionate. Glad you're planning to save it! All of the cosmetic parts and switchgear are readily available either secondhand or pattern at a fraction of the price quoted, if you even bother with all of them. The instrument panel can be reconditioned at a reasonable cost if you want to get the DIM working again (but it's not essential). The D5 engine is easy to service and work on, and the timing belt is about as easy to do as they come. I did mine, complete with the water pump in a couple of hours, taking it easy. Access is good, and you don't need any special tools, although you'll need something to hold the crank pulley when you torque the centre nut up to 300Nm. Volvos of this era are beautifully built and engineered, and very logically designed from a mechanical viewpoint. All I would recommend is getting yourself a decent Volvo capable scan tool. Generic OBD2 scanners are pretty useless on these cars, as the really useful codes that give you much more to go on are proprietary to Volvo. The iCarSoft range works well, and if you have a laptop spare, buy yourself a J2534 USB passthrough cable, and install the Volvo VIDA software which is readily available (often comes bundled with the cable), and will give you full dealer level diagnostics and technical info. There's also a tool from d5t5.com called vDash which again does in depth diagnostics, and even allows you to decode the PIN in the Central Electronics Module which then allows you to code in new features and options. There is little you can't do with these cars yourself. It's not even close to being uneconomical to repair if you decide to do the work yourself. These are great workhorses, and are built like tanks, as the mileage on yours attests to. My 2011 D5 is on 180,000 miles now and it's still a brilliant family car and tow car. With the seats folded, it's like a van in terms of loadspace, but you can get 5 adults and 2 kids in it comfortably if you need to.
KEEP IT! I've always been a Volvo fan, they are good, reliable and a ruggedly built vehicle (although I can't comment on the latest Chinese motors). As long as you can service it sensibly and get the spare parts cheaply, it will keep going and going! They, in my opinion, are a super car to own. Love them.
Would love to see you have a crack at getting this car in tip top condition again, it may be a pain for you but it’s great content for us,😂😂. Seriously, videos are really entertaining and to see a nice car saved from the scrappers is great.
I think that’s actually all not that bad. These are mostly things you can do yourself. Perhaps with a little help from a mechanically-minded friend. I’d take that on easily. And I think you’d have a lot of fun doing the easy fixes. Plus you can then compare the driving experience after repairs with before. I’ll bet, for instance, that the intercooler replacement will give it more power and make it more enjoyable for you.
Hi Joel great video. It might be an idea to point out that if people are interested in a Carly , they are buying an annually recurring licence to use the software. This is not at all clear on their website, and is hidden in the terms and conditions. Also, there is no cooling-off period which I thought was a legal requirement in the distance selling regulations. But apparently, by just ordering this product you appear to forfeit that right. I think there are probably better options available.
I had my V50 for service at my local Volvo garage, and the fuel injectors were out, quoting over 5 grand for 4 new injectors (costing a total of €800) and a new DPF. It was literally an hour's worth of wrenching to swap the injectord and clean everything back up and to clean the DPF.
If that radio keeps shutting down, try pulling the fuse for 10 seconds, that should fix it. I had intermittent problems and this was the fix. The main issues you have been quoted seem an easy fix, but deffo get an Independant shop to do an injector seal and engine service, the rest is straight forward.
Dealer repair costs will always be high. For a car at 20years old is bound to have issues. Yours are not totally bad. Brakes, tyres & suspension are critical to have right on your list. The headlights will polish up. Why did you drive it with abs light on and not investigate yourself? You promo'd a car diagnostic item on your friends beemer but didn't plug it into your volvo.........wtf?
Go for it. Just look up what you need to do on youtube, and learn as you go. It'd make good content fixing things. For instance the abs rings. The beauty of your channel is you're honest, and don't know what you're doing with tools. You're channel's already established, so people would be into watching you learn, and they would learn with you. You'll save a ton of money as well. Get your hands dirty and start enjoying the great feeling of fixing stuff yourself. It's easy mate. Nuts and bolts, that's it. Good luck, and keep up the great channel you've built.
The ABS rings may be cheap, but you will find it VERY difficult to press the drive shafts out of the hubs, you will need the largest press you can find!
if you have enought time, love and money you can fix anything. much like my 27 year old mazda bongo, i keep it going and when its in the garage, i miss it. over 200K miles and enjoy everytime i go out in it.
Definitely worth fixing up if you can do the work or get some help. Where it becomes a more silly proposition is if the chassis or body is rusted out. That's a more technical repair and if not done correctly could compromise the integrity and safety of the vehicle. I just sold a twenty year old vehicle that I've always maintained myself apart from servicing under the original warranty, and the family that bought it is overjoyed with the state of the vehicle. They will easily get another ten years out of it if they keep the maintenance going and look after it as well as I have done. People make the mistake of thinking that a car is not worth spending any money on so they let it get into this kind of condition where the amount of work is overwhelming. If you do regular maintenance and repairs it never needs to get that bad. People also get stingy, not understanding that the cost of replacing a vehicle is always going to be a lot more than doing regular maintenance, especially if you can do a lot of it yourself. Another point I'll make is that people banging on about buying electric vehicles because they are "green" have just fallen for the greenwashing. The absolute MOST green thing you can do is maintain and keep driving old vehicles instead of replacing them. That said, a dealership is normally the wrong place to get repair work done on a vehicle that is this old. They will want to replace parts with new OEM components where possible, and their labour costs are always going to be in the higher bracket.
Get 15% off your Carly purchase with code "Joel23" (auto-applied) until the end of September when you click: bit.ly/Carly-Joel Carly's scanner and free version of the app with standard OBD features are compatible with cars that have an OBD2 port. To see if Carly's advanced features - like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics - should work with your car, make sure to check out their website. To access these additional features, you'll need to get their yearly license.
I don't like Carly, their auto subscription is unclear. Their support is awful, they wont give you refund on £130 on the day of renewel, so you have to go to your bank to claw it back. It couldn't fix the problem with my BMW E61.
Carly functionality was poor and yes I was a subscriber across several makes. There are better apps for under £8 that have better functionality and work with standard cheap ODB2 readers. I have worked on a lot of cars, stripping them down to bare shells and rebuilding every component, engines, gearboxes, differentials and in the case of my WR Quattro even the electronics in the ECU, to change boost limit, hall effect timing etc. I see Carly as over marketed and expensive for an average product.
Its not that bad!! What are you after, a premium automobile or a luxobarge that works? Out of all those things listed, thetes only a few that are MOT related. Get it done, who cares about the rough bits?? Youll have a brilliant car for a year and, if you want, you can do the aesthetics slowly, one by one. Have a go yourself on the latter, good video content potential 👍
I’m biased because I also have an ‘11 plate xc90 executive. But I would love to see you save this one somehow. Love this channel and the videos are very well put together and enjoyable to watch. You’re a natural! Forget Matt Watson 😂
Definitely worth saving, most of the mot failures are consistent with its milage. Do all the fluids, belts and bushes etc and get it through the mot and then fix the rest over a few months. Like people have said bits are readily available for cosmetic stuff. The bodywork will look ok with a clay bar and a polish and you can fix the headlights with an abrasive kit. It will be a good car with many more miles left in her..good luck with her, will look forward to the finished car
I have a 2007 d5 geartronic lux . I had the anti skid message which required a new Haldex unit. I’ve still got the volvo diagnostics hardware DICE thing if you want it and software. Cost me £1200 to get fixed and I also needed a £1900 steering rack. 170000 miles
If you can turn the drive shaft freely to the rear, then the spline bushing is broken Thats the weakest point of the 4wd There is a bush between the gearbox and the right-angle transmission. It is not expensive, but it is a 3 to 4 hour job. In all my 35 years with volvo,i never did a haldex replacement.
I got rid of my 2003 xc90 just over 2 years ago, it had a mere 190,000 miles on it. Had to go because needed gearbox and steering rack repairs/replacements. The car itself was in ok shape though with just poor paint job starting to show through on the front wing, and the usual wheel refurb needed. It was comfy reliable and had plently of room in it, but that's all I can say in its favour, don't think I'd want another.
The additional stuff that wasn't included they won't know until they start taking it apart. For example, to put the pickup rings on for the ABS you are going to have to remove the hubs and the bearings in the hubs may be going bad and or need repacking. They won't know the state of the bearings truly until they take it apart. Also your rotors need milling as you got some rusting going on and its bad to have a lot of rust on the rotors as this reduces your braking ability(sometimes the rust will rub away with some driving and braking, but sometimes it doesn't and requires the milling) and since you have to replace the brakes in the back it may be best to just replace all the hubs and rotors and brakes, this will save you on the abs rings and removes any uncertainty with the rotors and hubs. You also have some rust damage going on around the control arms, the moment you start taking stuff apart you might encounter more stuff that will need replacing. Since you are going to be taking off the control arms it may be worth taking a look at the steering shaft and other components down there and replacing the shock absorbers for the front(only other way to know a bad shock absorber from just looking at it is with a dynamo or looking at the wear pattern of your tires) ideal to replace the shock absorbers anyways since you have to remove those and they are not expensive so might as well while you have to access to them. Looking at the one wear pattern of the tire you showed it seems it has some outside wear that isn't normal which indicates you might need a slight alignment adjustment can't say for certain as you didn't show the wear on all 4 tires. The fuel injectors could be easy to replace it just depends on the motor and how it is designed. Some of them are easy others are more difficult and require a ton of stuff to remove. More stuff you have to remove, the more likely you may need to replace the stuff you are removing but I don't think the fuel injectors are going to be too difficult to replace. Also its diesel and diesel cars can easily make it to 500,000 miles as long as routine maintenance is done. intercooler is also not going to be difficult to replace either, just need to ensure you replace the transmission oil that is lost from draining it and since you are going to be draining the transmission fluid best to do a transmission service. That is get a new transmission filter and replace all of the transmission oil just make sure you buy the appropriate oil. The quote of 5 grand is actually not terribly high as you have to remember there is labor charges and since they don't know the full scope until they start to look at it, they don't want to under estimate. Also, as I mentioned there is some stuff that is convenient to do since all the places that requires repairs makes it easy to service those other components at the same time. If it was me, I would probably replace the entire sub frame in the front end, mainly because I don't like all that rusting that is going on, and rust reduces the strength and integrity of all that stuff if nothing done about it and there is a point where its too late to do much of anything because the rust has penetrated either all the way through or more then halfway of the metal. Even if you replace the sub frame, I estimate with some patience you could probably get all that done for like 2-3 grand. It may seem like a lot but it isn't but that depends if you deem it worth it. Have no idea on your intentions of the vehicle. If you just do all the repairs without too much extra like replacing sub frame. And lets say you want to do the shock absorbers and replace all the hubs, with the total you quoted it would probably add about another 400 approximately. I am not too familiar with the prices over in the UK but it still shouldn't add too much and when it comes to the wheels better to be safe lol.
Very interesting video. I’m a huge Volvo fan with a 2005 V70 (same P2 family as the XC90) and I knew even before the video got started that the dealer would quote ridiculous money so no surprise at all. Things like the headlights, the headlining, all refurb and new tyres… a car person would never take their car to a dealer those things to start with. These are a good bus. I had a V50 before the V70 and the fibre optic was a pain in the arse as I always upgrade my audio.
Had a engine management light up for two years. Goes in for service, still there, not mentioned at all by the main dealer. I mentioned it, reply was, does the car run ok , Yes it runs well. Then nothing to worry about was the reply. So today light is up.. And done 15k . Obviously just a glitch and no one wants to know. It's not a Volvo, it's a Citroen. Thanks for your video. Interesting one.
better than when I took a very old Vauxhall for an MOT - the tester said 'Let me put it this way, there's nothing wrong that a whole new car wouldn't put right'
It's got a cassetteplayer! That's nice because some artists have been releasing cassettes of their album lately😊 But seriously, my impression is that Volvo's are virtually indestructable. Spare parts can be bought everywhere, new and used. I can't help you though, firstly, I'm not a mechanic and secondly, I live in The Netherlands.
I also have an XC90 exrctutive d5 phase 1. Its been demoted to farm truck duties as i felt it was costing too much to keep repairing odd parts, watching this video makes me think it wasnt that bad afterall 🙈😂. To get the screen on the dash to go up, you have to click enter on the back of the steering wheel twice. The disc and player for that satnav is under the passanger seat. Sometimes u have to op and eject the disc and put it back in and it will work again
Mm? Main dealers. Got a quote for over £2000 from Mercedes dealer a couple of years ago during a recall. It was a free safety check. All fixed for under £200 at a local garage. Be careful with courtesy cars, the insurance can sometimes be third party only
All main dealer garages are well TT, and so is their pricing! I have had 7 Volvos over the years and looked after them myself, literally bugger paying what nowadays £70,80 pound per hour + for labour, and there is only one "technician" in the garage (the one that can read) the rest are lowly grease monkeys! Get to know your Volvo Especially the engine !! I bought a 240 DL Estate years ago ,my first Volvo, bought it from a guy who bought it new, he drove from Chingford to Birmingham once a week to buy foam to sell on his market stall so no heavy graft. I got it cheap because it was running rough, I knew that, so did a few checks diagnosed valve problems stripped it down and sure enough valves were all bad, rang the guy and asked what fuel he used, as I thought he was using 4 star, they are built to run on 2 star. Anyhow made a list of everything I wanted to replace and as a comparison went to Volvo and got prices, not going to bother with everything but, head gasket set £40:00 one valve £9:80. (this was around 1986/7. Rang a pal of mine to ask him where he gets hits parts from, told him what I was doing and he said that engine is a British Leyland 2.1 litre, got to So And So in Walthamstow and tell them it's for as Triumph 2000 BL 2127cc engine like the police used! Off I went head gasket set £10:00 Valves were £3:00 each, or thereabouts if I recall there was a few pennies difference from exhaust to inlet. I bought all new valves Gaskets springs all I needed and they lent me the whole box of valve shims for free, just do my job and put mine back in the box! I doubt Volvo would have done that!! A bit of history, Volvo bought the engines from B L as it was then , in parts then they totally re machined all of the necessary to their tolerances and spec's, assembled and used those engines, and bloody good they were too. That car was as smooth as silk well economical and a delight to drive, my wife used to fill it, in and out, and take our boys and go to the coast windsurfing we kept that car for 8 years, but eventually due to our climate it rusted badly. If I recall the 340's Volvos used Renault engines and they were in backwards, ie No 1 was at the bulkhead and 4 was in front.
Save this one Joel, reach out to the Volvo owners groups and see if they can help with the fibre optic issue, the service and mechanical stuff get stuck in and get it fixed. That car will be a belter once it’s sorted. No spoilers, but the MOT history is quite interesting as well, be good to do a vid on that as well, the cars done no mileage at all over the last few years, which makes this history somewhat interesting. Good luck mate, if you were up north I’d give you a hand mate
That honestly doesn't seem to bad, the rear brakes will need shoes and fitting kit too, only fit genuine as non genuine won't hold a handbrake and fail mot. Abs rings will have split and worn through the abs sensors too so will need 2 new sensors aswell (volvo tech)
The optional premium (as opposed to the already mighty high performance system standard on the SE models) stereo on the Volvos of that era were stonking. 4x75w amp, 13 speakers and premium speakers/subwoofer. Had one in my 2004 s60. Only the Lexus LS came close. You should save this car just for this, and can purchase a USB /iPhone-in lead for them for around £100 which allows top quality Spotify/tidal direct playback. Trust me it’s ridiculous….. I reckon this car could be saved (certainly through an MOT) for under a grand. You say that it has an engine that nobody wants - wrong, the d5 is always the sought-after version due to being a bulletproof engine that goes on forever with regular maintenance (the original or latest owner obviously stopped caring sadly), combing lots of power and torque with superb economy. I’d save it definitively.
The whole exercise was to take this vehicle off the road no matter what, they give you a nice new Volvo to tease you into getting a new or nearly new replacement Volvo.
300k Miles is nothing for a D5 Engine. There's a reason why most commercial vehicles are Diesel - reliability. I've a 2003 S60 with over 580k on the clock and it's still a beast. The car has stood the test of time and hard use. I've driven it round Europe three times, towing a Caravan. Regular maintenance is the key - and I do my own. The only problems that have occurred are the ones you'll see on every other vehicle of the same age.
Great video on the Volvo! I own a garage based in Dartford called MSO Performance. We will be happy to help you with anything you aren’t able to do yourself 😃.
I know it’s a difficult decision to spend money on something that you most probably wouldn’t get back, but! It would be very interesting to see if you could put all those things right for the eBay price! And to see the car with new wheels lights etc!
So fixed with parts and a tame mechanic £1400, depends on what you can sell it for, but with no mot I expect 200-300, I would fix it, better the shit heap you know than the one you don't. Basically by selling it you will have £1700 in your pocket, what you going to get with that?
Hi it’s worth repairing there nice cars always wanted one . Find a sponsor to take it on . Just shows the prices online to a dealer prices which is mostly labour cost . Very doable . Being the se does it have the cabby box fridge
I’M REPAIRING THE CAR MYSELF! Check out the first video here: ruclips.net/video/ltZkzPtGg3I/видео.htmlsi=rk8gXI_WgfG-tQ1C
@itsjoel fair play to you for taking it to a dealership for a health check, that said, my heart sank for you after listening to their feedback.
You’ve got a raisin under your nose 👃
Would if I could. Good luck
If it’s not rotted out, it’s worth DIY fixing … most of the trim parts you can get from a scrapper, the rest you can buy over a parts counter and fit yourself (or a mate can) for 400 to 500 quid. The headlamps will polish up like new, plenty of tutorials on the toob for that.
For 17 years, I’ve owned what is now a 27 year old Land Cruiser currently with over 500k kms on the clock, still going strong. I love it! ❤️🇷🇴
Haha, what the car dealers hate the most. I don't wanna pay for their glass palaces and the secretary hookers with fake boobs and long fingernails. Same with the motorcycle and the bike... strictly no dealership visits.
Sounds completely normal for a Volvo of that age, it needs a good service, and the wishbones need changing, probably £500 tops if you do it yourself.
Not economically viable to mend.
most volvos 3 years old need wishbones or drivershafts lol
Timing belt is expensive, with that model best to do water pump at same time. Not worth doing yourself unless you’re know what you’re doing.
Half of the stuff doesn’t need “replacement” in my opinion!
I think it’s definitely worth keeping on the road!
Moste brand garage rip people of and sant them to buy a new car or sell alot of parts they don't need
For my two pence. I think that we watch your channel because you do complete work on these cars - like with the Jag etc. You would never get it fixed at a main dealer so their price is always replace and not repair. I also think that there might be some businesses out there that if featured on the channel might be happy to assist with the repair of certain items - a trimmer for the headlining, someone else for some of the faults like the ABS and the stereo etc. Then, £500 major service would cover many of the other things listed. I would keep watching to see you continue on this path.
Getting sponsorship, whilst helping the channel, is knida "cheating" , it means then that we couldn't viably do the same repairs to vehicles because we would be paying for EVERYTHING oyrselves...
I hate watching channels where they get so much sponsorship, the channel just becomes an advert compilation for said sponsors... lets try to keep it real please... its why your subscribers are to watch your channel.. 🙂👍
Now let a decent Volvo Indy look over it and give you a quote, The previous owner of my 2003 V70 D5 used Fishers in Gloucester who seem good for all his maintenance in the 7 years he owned it and the car still runs faultless 70K miles later in my hands with the extensive repairs that they carried out using gen Volvo parts (DMF, Clutch, Intercooler, Injector's rebuilt etc) Also send the dash cluster to Revtronic's for a repair, I thought my V70 cluster was scrap when it went pixelated on the digital displays but they repaired it with a lifetime guarantee for £80! And it's still working perfectly 3 years later! 👌
I'd fix it up! This is a rare, cool Volvo. Would be a real shame to see it scrapped.
And get nothing for how much you spend. No one wants a rotten old volvo
@@richard3004 The XC90 isn't rare but this spec is. To the right Volvo person it would be a good second car or towing rig. And plenty of people drive rotten old Volvos - they're miles better than most other rotten old cars
@@benjamindoyle668 No one wants them. Certainly no one in London or Greater London from 29th August. Additionally no one in their right mind will want that with that mileage not without an MOT. If you try to repair / fix it up it will be impossible to get as much as you pay out on it. Worth at max £350 which is the price of scrap.
Be done with it. I sadly parted ways with my '07 V70 after thousand after thousand spent. Still most comfortable car I ever owned but had to go.
@@Blackmamba12345lol. You think London is the entire country.
Cute. Nobody cares about your diversity crime hole.
We love the channel because of the way you present and put right these older cars. NO way is it a dead loss, Volvo main dealer make out that it's horrendous, remember when you went to Audi and they said 2k to put right, you can get this to an acceptable level Joel easy.
That list was nowhere near as bad as it could have been, you've got a good base to work with, fix it up, give it some love and it will serve you for many more miles to come.
It’s the engine every Volvo owner wants, they go for ever and are silky smooth, powerful and have character. So much nicer than the 4 cylinder soulless things available now.
Some savvy eBay purchases and a bit of spannering will see it good for a good few years.
My 90000 mile 13 year old xc70 is not even run in yet!!
Was about to comment the same thing.
D5 for the win!
Not too bad at all, 4 tyres,a good service at an independent volvo specialist and you need to find a similar aged xc90 at a volvo breakers,so well worth doing,then just the wheels and the body to have a good buff.
There’s no rot underneath, seems solid and to be fair a lot of what they said is easily repairable, and yes I have looked at the mot report.
I also think most of the amount they quoted was shop time, as the parts are all pretty straightforward to swap, but getting them out is a bit of a puzzle (particularly in the interior) and having to do that with every individual part will start adding up. It can quickly be 2 or 3 days of work.
Interior jobs are absolutely worth the effort if you can do them on your own free time. Parts are cheap and plentiful, and shop time is expensive.
All of that is doable. Polish up the headlights, get broken bits from a breaker. Do ABS rings at the same time as lower wishbones, as you have to take the driveshafts out anyway. Do the safety and MOT stuff first, then cosmetics bit by bit afterwards.
Cosmetics if ever….
I would also do the brakes (discs and pads) once you have the wishbones and ABS rings off, since at that point the brakes are very easy to get to.
I can’t believe a main dealer would do this health check for free. This is exceptional. The guy on the phone couldn’t sell eggs to an omelette factory though! It really wasn’t a horrific list. You can do loads of this work yourself and find yourself a decent scrapyard for the cosmetic bits. I hope Volvo HW noted this is an “Executive” model and gave kudos for the green over-mats.
They often do health checks for free. Good PR and in the case of this good publicity. Often the customer authorises the work too, so good for business.
They did say that the “interior was exceptional for the age and mileage of the car”
@@itsjoel when you know you know :-)
@@itsjoel Do you remember the Volvo Ad ( A 20 year old Volvo and five of its contemporaries (which were rusted and squashed , the Volvo (amazon ? ) was still going (advert date about 1983 ?)
you could put that right yourself for £500, 4 tyres £100, headlining £120, mirror covers X 2 £40, headlights will clean up, if not scrap yard 2 for £90, DIY means Volvo don't get £4K labour charges, its a keeper and will give you many years of service, you can do this a bit each weekend on your drive and have it minted in one month,
It deserves to be saved but only if you could do it yourself. Volvo main dealer price was mental!!!
Joel, just take it to Terry at Swedish Car Clinic just up the A41 from you in Aylesbury. Upper Barn Farm Ind park just after On Yer Bike. They keep our 160,000 mile XC90 going and are expert independent Volvo specialists. Also an MOT centre. Do not lose hope !
Really not too bad at all for that mileage. At least its solid. And apart from the software upgrades you and a friend could do the rest of the work.
The software updates would be done for ‘free’ with a service from the main stealer. Volvo make a big deal of this as part of their service value add
Ouch. I for one would be interested to see how much it costs to get through an MOT. I think this kind of decision is quite representative of the choices most of us have to make. The liking the car and all its foibles, followed by the sudden noise that appears a few months before the MOT is due to run out. I’ve gone through the last 3 years with my 407 coupe, thinking its doomed and then finding that I can fix it myself or find a cheaper garage. Sorted my ABS and airbag sensor last month by fiddling about under the seat with some contact cleaner spray. Loving the channel.
Meh, it's not like the car would fail its MOT for cracked dash trim and the head liner sagging. A lot of the issues identified are pretty much cosmetic, I don't think there's much MOT drama here beyond the tyres and brakes.
That sounded a reasonable quote. I took my Volvo 850 to our dealer in Hong Kong for a free checkup and they came back with an absolutely ludicrous price for every little thing under the sun of which I only had them change out the cracked engine mounts. -Car lasted another ten years with minimal work.
There will be a whole lot of entertainment in watching you work on your car with no help. Even if you don’t know what your doing and get bits wrong, it’s still great youtube. Love the channel. Keep the videos coming.
I appreciate that!
If you are good on spanners, You could pick up second parts etc. Would make a very good work horse.
Joel, I know you’ve advertised this car, but there is so much love for it in the comments and it would make great content. If you reconsider I’d happily help you out with the spanner work
I would not consider it all that bad. I do my own suspension work however it's not always easy and you really require a fair number of tools to separate ball joints etc.
The biggest problem with this stuff is when something goes wrong. You really need a private space to work on so you can walk away if things start going wrong.
The other factor to consider is obtaing quality parts, many parts even ones with a name on them will not even last a year. What is very concerning is the poor quality of parts from local suppliers who supply local garages and tyre shops etc.
Don't take anything to a main dealer unless its to keep the warranty happy etc, everything else go to specialist. I worked in main dealers for 30 years, all of the horror stories, upselling, bodges, work not done but charged for is all true.
I own a V70 that has done roughly the same mileage. The age and use do show, but not all that bad: Doorcards slightly rattly, soft-touch surfaces worn, etc. But since I always keep up on the vital services and repairs, while some certified Volvo dealership might not agree, the car is always good to go and never left me stranded.
My best British friend that I met in Uni at Lancaster Uni in the UK in the 1990’s, now lives in High Wycombe (I’m from Indiana, in the US). I’ve been there several times.
All sounded quite reasonable. The cosmetic parts you can pick up as you see them. Personally, I would get the wheel's refurbished. My 2010 XC70 (90,000 miles) has just had it's annual service and MOT - new brake pads all round, new rear coil springs and full service - the bill was £1300 at an independent Volvo garage.
The new Volvos are very nice. This car seems to only have a couple of optional extras and it’s the base level trim. When you spec them up well you can make them amazing. The B3 is the least powerful engine and B means it’s a mild hybrid
Thanks for the info!
These new Volvos are just not Volvos. They do not drive like it. The visibility is miserable. The ergonomics are simply ludicrous. I will stay with my 1990 240 estate that Ma bought new. Only 400,000 miles on the clock and still running like new.
It's all easily repairable, and at least you don't have any rot to weld up. Start with the major items that are obviously needed for the MOT pass. The rest would be on an, as and when funds and help allow. The entertainment system could be an expense, but a used or aftermarket system could be a cheaper option. It's still got a lot of miles in it, and it's too good to break.
Really doesn't sound bad definitely worth doing
Everyone round to Joel's, we can pitch in and help
If you can get the timing belt, water pump and tensioner done in budget. This is worth saving. The serpentine belt stuff is easy to fit yourself.
Well worth bringing back as long as its not at dealer rates. The headlights may respond to a clean with very fine wet and dry and then some cutting compound. The wheels still hold air and appear to be in balance so could do just tyres. The MOT will be the clincher and how much time and money to end up with good to go, but high miles car. On my mates volvo 740 estate we removed the cloth of the headliner.,hoovered the surface , sealed it with pva and then painted 2 coats of vinyl matt emulsion. Lets just say it was la lot less annoying and easier than replacing or removing and resticking new cloth .
If I was looking at any vehicle at an auction which has the first letter of the registration plate starting with a S the first thing I would do is look at the chassis for rot, having a scottish registration plate usually means underbody rust issues, in my opinion it's worth scrap money with that mileage.
I have a 2011 XC90, it went into Volvo recently to have the Polestar Optimisation done, they did a free health check, the two rear indicator bulbs, the orange has started cracking on them so they recommended I get them replaced, they wanted £70 to replace 2x bulbs that you can get for about 80p. I've recently done a service on mine including fuel filter and the mpg has shot up since.
Are you happy with the optimisation? How much did you pay? I also have a 11 xc90 and was wondering about it
@@bn357 for the price yes, I was lucky and got it 50% off in a sale so £349. Wouldnt be happy at £700.
@@AndrewJB thanks. I read indeed that some dealers would do it half price. I will enquire! £700 was sounding steep indeed
One of the best cars I ever drove was the Volvo GL 250 Estate with the big red block engine. Never had any issues with it at all ! Company car but I really looked after it! Sad when it was replaced.
I saw the MOT I am sure you can do it,I love Volvos. Would be awesome to see it stick going at 500.000 I have every faith…😊
You can do it Joel, for the content, for the car, for the love. You can do it!
We had a similar situation with a Peugeot dealer wanting thousands when it took less than £500 to resolve what really needed fixing. Keep up the good work
In the words of high peaks auto, get her fixed and keep it of the scrap heap, that will be more environmentally friendly then it would be to get it scraped
Those headlights can be saved mate, my stepson has a 350z that had headlights in similar condition. If needed I'd be able to help you getting them back to good condition again if needed. Great content as usual by the way 👍
It's not that bad mate no corrosion spotted . It's uneconomical for them to repair is the case .👍
Considering the replacement for a new (or newer AC90), I would fix what needs to be fixed and keep it safe, I would just fix it. I have just over 200,000 on my 06 XC90 and just had the second timing belt/water pump replaced my only issue is it is stuck in Park and I found a few go arounds for that. My CLOSEST dealer is 5 hours away. I live in BFE Montana. I'll have to go and check out our second video.
These things are money pits. No question. You see lots of them around and as they get older they get increasingly expensive to keep running well. My Volvo V70 is almost 20 years old now and it’s going well, but every time something needs fixing it’s €500. In fact last May I spent €850on maintenance which included timing belt kit, water pump, serpentine belt and brand new alternator. A service on top of that is another €150.
Rear discs are next and I’d like to replace the steering rack as it’s weeping and feels a little lumpy when doing low speed manoeuvres like parking.
It’s still a great car and with only 92,000 miles on the 2.0T manual.
I bought a 2014 V70 D4 2 litre Ulez 2 years ago with 160k. It’s bodily in great Nick but I soon found out it it consumes copious amounts of engine oil. .5litre to circa 800miles. There’s no black smoke at all and it always passes it’s MoT emissions. In comparison my previous 3x 2 litre diesel Passats with mega miles NEVER used oil between changes. I have read much forum chat about this and it appears the piston rings of this generation are very ‘slack’ and do not require a ring compressor to fit the pistons, I guess to reduce friction and achieve Ulez targets.
Wish I’d read about it before buying 🤪
I once fixed my headliner with thumb tacks. Not push pins but flat thumb tacks they'll keep the headliner up and don't cost too much.
Ive had my 2008 V50 SE 2.0d (EURO3 without a DPF) since 06/2015. Its been great, very reliable and economical (gets 53MPG average calculated annually).
2 significant failures were the alternator at 145K miles/ 10 years old, then the starter motor failed recently at 180K miles/ 15 years old.
Ive replaced the front LCAs and front wheel bearings but I consider that to be "wear & tear" more than a failure. Timing belt done at Volvo main dealer in Ireland at 144k miles/ 10 years old.
I drove to Moscow from Dublin last August and returned in April this year (2023).... Invested in decent snow/ winter tyres, replaced coolant with 100% undiluted arctic spec coolant, also had to use special arctic specscreen wash. The diesel in Russia has special anti gel additives during winter (the price of diesel goes up 10% in winter because of the cost of the winter additives!).
The old girl would start every morning down to about -18°C.... Any colder than that and the battery struggled to turn the engine over fast enough to fire up.
Every year I think about trading her in but Id have to spend alot of money to get anything of similar comfort, spec or economy, so now that she has a fresh MOT- I will be keeping her on the road forq at least 1 more year!
Im off to Spain for the winter next week, the climate is more forgiving than Russian winters! The only prep she really needs is air con re-gassing and a set of summer tyres. Im gonna scour ebay for a set of used wheels & tyres because the paint is flaking off the original wheels (harsh anti freeze chemicals used on the roads in Russia really destroy paint and corrode metal fast!) .... Its cheaper to buy a set of wheels & tyres than it is to buy a set of 4 new tyres and scruffy, flaky wheels really let the car down, she has good paint & body condition except for the flaky alloy wheels.
This is a great example of why you don't take an old car anywhere near a main dealer. They judge everything based on the condition of a new car, they often invent work, and their labour rates are extortionate. Glad you're planning to save it!
All of the cosmetic parts and switchgear are readily available either secondhand or pattern at a fraction of the price quoted, if you even bother with all of them. The instrument panel can be reconditioned at a reasonable cost if you want to get the DIM working again (but it's not essential). The D5 engine is easy to service and work on, and the timing belt is about as easy to do as they come. I did mine, complete with the water pump in a couple of hours, taking it easy. Access is good, and you don't need any special tools, although you'll need something to hold the crank pulley when you torque the centre nut up to 300Nm.
Volvos of this era are beautifully built and engineered, and very logically designed from a mechanical viewpoint. All I would recommend is getting yourself a decent Volvo capable scan tool. Generic OBD2 scanners are pretty useless on these cars, as the really useful codes that give you much more to go on are proprietary to Volvo. The iCarSoft range works well, and if you have a laptop spare, buy yourself a J2534 USB passthrough cable, and install the Volvo VIDA software which is readily available (often comes bundled with the cable), and will give you full dealer level diagnostics and technical info. There's also a tool from d5t5.com called vDash which again does in depth diagnostics, and even allows you to decode the PIN in the Central Electronics Module which then allows you to code in new features and options. There is little you can't do with these cars yourself.
It's not even close to being uneconomical to repair if you decide to do the work yourself. These are great workhorses, and are built like tanks, as the mileage on yours attests to. My 2011 D5 is on 180,000 miles now and it's still a brilliant family car and tow car. With the seats folded, it's like a van in terms of loadspace, but you can get 5 adults and 2 kids in it comfortably if you need to.
KEEP IT!
I've always been a Volvo fan, they are good, reliable and a ruggedly built vehicle (although I can't comment on the latest Chinese motors).
As long as you can service it sensibly and get the spare parts cheaply, it will keep going and going! They, in my opinion, are a super car to own. Love them.
Would love to see you have a crack at getting this car in tip top condition again, it may be a pain for you but it’s great content for us,😂😂. Seriously, videos are really entertaining and to see a nice car saved from the scrappers is great.
I worked at Volvo and copied that dolby disc on to Mini Discs and I still have it 👍
I think that’s actually all not that bad. These are mostly things you can do yourself. Perhaps with a little help from a mechanically-minded friend. I’d take that on easily. And I think you’d have a lot of fun doing the easy fixes. Plus you can then compare the driving experience after repairs with before. I’ll bet, for instance, that the intercooler replacement will give it more power and make it more enjoyable for you.
Hi Joel great video. It might be an idea to point out that if people are interested in a Carly , they are buying an annually recurring licence to use the software. This is not at all clear on their website, and is hidden in the terms and conditions. Also, there is no cooling-off period which I thought was a legal requirement in the distance selling regulations. But apparently, by just ordering this product you appear to forfeit that right. I think there are probably better options available.
I had my V50 for service at my local Volvo garage, and the fuel injectors were out, quoting over 5 grand for 4 new injectors (costing a total of €800) and a new DPF. It was literally an hour's worth of wrenching to swap the injectord and clean everything back up and to clean the DPF.
Even standard Volvo audio systems are amazing,definitely worth getting it sorted
Who wants to help me rebuild this thing?
Told you so! 😅
£5000 for a Volvo that’s only worth £800🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
👨🏼🔬
No thanks
Yep im up for it..abs rings you will need to heat up, they should expand more than the rest of the joint...
If that radio keeps shutting down, try pulling the fuse for 10 seconds, that should fix it. I had intermittent problems and this was the fix.
The main issues you have been quoted seem an easy fix, but deffo get an Independant shop to do an injector seal and engine service, the rest is straight forward.
Dealer repair costs will always be high. For a car at 20years old is bound to have issues. Yours are not totally bad. Brakes, tyres & suspension are critical to have right on your list. The headlights will polish up. Why did you drive it with abs light on and not investigate yourself? You promo'd a car diagnostic item on your friends beemer but didn't plug it into your volvo.........wtf?
Very thorough check over by Volvo. Very impressive.
Agree, worth anyone doing!
Go for it. Just look up what you need to do on youtube, and learn as you go.
It'd make good content fixing things. For instance the abs rings. The beauty of your channel is you're honest, and don't know what you're doing with tools. You're channel's already established, so people would be into watching you learn, and they would learn with you. You'll save a ton of money as well. Get your hands dirty and start enjoying the great feeling of fixing stuff yourself. It's easy mate. Nuts and bolts, that's it.
Good luck, and keep up the great channel you've built.
The ABS rings may be cheap, but you will find it VERY difficult to press the drive shafts out of the hubs, you will need the largest press you can find!
if you have enought time, love and money you can fix anything. much like my 27 year old mazda bongo, i keep it going and when its in the garage, i miss it. over 200K miles and enjoy everytime i go out in it.
Out of my 18 year old Peugeot 1.4 hdi I’m getting minimum of 60 mpg and 70mpg on a run, and it’s done 230K miles, owned from new never broke down ☠️
Definitely worth fixing up if you can do the work or get some help. Where it becomes a more silly proposition is if the chassis or body is rusted out. That's a more technical repair and if not done correctly could compromise the integrity and safety of the vehicle. I just sold a twenty year old vehicle that I've always maintained myself apart from servicing under the original warranty, and the family that bought it is overjoyed with the state of the vehicle. They will easily get another ten years out of it if they keep the maintenance going and look after it as well as I have done.
People make the mistake of thinking that a car is not worth spending any money on so they let it get into this kind of condition where the amount of work is overwhelming. If you do regular maintenance and repairs it never needs to get that bad. People also get stingy, not understanding that the cost of replacing a vehicle is always going to be a lot more than doing regular maintenance, especially if you can do a lot of it yourself.
Another point I'll make is that people banging on about buying electric vehicles because they are "green" have just fallen for the greenwashing. The absolute MOST green thing you can do is maintain and keep driving old vehicles instead of replacing them.
That said, a dealership is normally the wrong place to get repair work done on a vehicle that is this old. They will want to replace parts with new OEM components where possible, and their labour costs are always going to be in the higher bracket.
Get 15% off your Carly purchase with code "Joel23" (auto-applied) until the end of September when you click: bit.ly/Carly-Joel
Carly's scanner and free version of the app with standard OBD features are compatible with cars that have an OBD2 port. To see if Carly's advanced features - like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics - should work with your car, make sure to check out their website. To access these additional features, you'll need to get their yearly license.
thanks for the code, i used it to order one today.
I don't like Carly, their auto subscription is unclear. Their support is awful, they wont give you refund on £130 on the day of renewel, so you have to go to your bank to claw it back. It couldn't fix the problem with my BMW E61.
Carly functionality was poor and yes I was a subscriber across several makes. There are better apps for under £8 that have better functionality and work with standard cheap ODB2 readers. I have worked on a lot of cars, stripping them down to bare shells and rebuilding every component, engines, gearboxes, differentials and in the case of my WR Quattro even the electronics in the ECU, to change boost limit, hall effect timing etc. I see Carly as over marketed and expensive for an average product.
Its not that bad!! What are you after, a premium automobile or a luxobarge that works? Out of all those things listed, thetes only a few that are MOT related. Get it done, who cares about the rough bits?? Youll have a brilliant car for a year and, if you want, you can do the aesthetics slowly, one by one. Have a go yourself on the latter, good video content potential 👍
I’m biased because I also have an ‘11 plate xc90 executive. But I would love to see you save this one somehow. Love this channel and the videos are very well put together and enjoyable to watch. You’re a natural! Forget Matt Watson 😂
all the jobs on the car you will be able to do yourself go on joel have a go matey and it will turn out a lovely car that you will know inside out
Definitely worth saving, most of the mot failures are consistent with its milage. Do all the fluids, belts and bushes etc and get it through the mot and then fix the rest over a few months.
Like people have said bits are readily available for cosmetic stuff. The bodywork will look ok with a clay bar and a polish and you can fix the headlights with an abrasive kit. It will be a good car with many more miles left in her..good luck with her, will look forward to the finished car
I have a 2007 d5 geartronic lux . I had the anti skid message which required a new Haldex unit. I’ve still got the volvo diagnostics hardware DICE thing if you want it and software. Cost me £1200 to get fixed and I also needed a £1900 steering rack. 170000 miles
If you can turn the drive shaft freely to the rear, then the spline bushing is broken
Thats the weakest point of the 4wd
There is a bush between the gearbox and the right-angle transmission. It is not expensive, but it is a 3 to 4 hour job.
In all my 35 years with volvo,i never did a haldex replacement.
I got rid of my 2003 xc90 just over 2 years ago, it had a mere 190,000 miles on it. Had to go because needed gearbox and steering rack repairs/replacements. The car itself was in ok shape though with just poor paint job starting to show through on the front wing, and the usual wheel refurb needed. It was comfy reliable and had plently of room in it, but that's all I can say in its favour, don't think I'd want another.
The additional stuff that wasn't included they won't know until they start taking it apart. For example, to put the pickup rings on for the ABS you are going to have to remove the hubs and the bearings in the hubs may be going bad and or need repacking. They won't know the state of the bearings truly until they take it apart. Also your rotors need milling as you got some rusting going on and its bad to have a lot of rust on the rotors as this reduces your braking ability(sometimes the rust will rub away with some driving and braking, but sometimes it doesn't and requires the milling) and since you have to replace the brakes in the back it may be best to just replace all the hubs and rotors and brakes, this will save you on the abs rings and removes any uncertainty with the rotors and hubs. You also have some rust damage going on around the control arms, the moment you start taking stuff apart you might encounter more stuff that will need replacing. Since you are going to be taking off the control arms it may be worth taking a look at the steering shaft and other components down there and replacing the shock absorbers for the front(only other way to know a bad shock absorber from just looking at it is with a dynamo or looking at the wear pattern of your tires) ideal to replace the shock absorbers anyways since you have to remove those and they are not expensive so might as well while you have to access to them. Looking at the one wear pattern of the tire you showed it seems it has some outside wear that isn't normal which indicates you might need a slight alignment adjustment can't say for certain as you didn't show the wear on all 4 tires. The fuel injectors could be easy to replace it just depends on the motor and how it is designed. Some of them are easy others are more difficult and require a ton of stuff to remove. More stuff you have to remove, the more likely you may need to replace the stuff you are removing but I don't think the fuel injectors are going to be too difficult to replace. Also its diesel and diesel cars can easily make it to 500,000 miles as long as routine maintenance is done. intercooler is also not going to be difficult to replace either, just need to ensure you replace the transmission oil that is lost from draining it and since you are going to be draining the transmission fluid best to do a transmission service. That is get a new transmission filter and replace all of the transmission oil just make sure you buy the appropriate oil. The quote of 5 grand is actually not terribly high as you have to remember there is labor charges and since they don't know the full scope until they start to look at it, they don't want to under estimate. Also, as I mentioned there is some stuff that is convenient to do since all the places that requires repairs makes it easy to service those other components at the same time. If it was me, I would probably replace the entire sub frame in the front end, mainly because I don't like all that rusting that is going on, and rust reduces the strength and integrity of all that stuff if nothing done about it and there is a point where its too late to do much of anything because the rust has penetrated either all the way through or more then halfway of the metal. Even if you replace the sub frame, I estimate with some patience you could probably get all that done for like 2-3 grand. It may seem like a lot but it isn't but that depends if you deem it worth it. Have no idea on your intentions of the vehicle. If you just do all the repairs without too much extra like replacing sub frame. And lets say you want to do the shock absorbers and replace all the hubs, with the total you quoted it would probably add about another 400 approximately. I am not too familiar with the prices over in the UK but it still shouldn't add too much and when it comes to the wheels better to be safe lol.
Very interesting video. I’m a huge Volvo fan with a 2005 V70 (same P2 family as the XC90) and I knew even before the video got started that the dealer would quote ridiculous money so no surprise at all. Things like the headlights, the headlining, all refurb and new tyres… a car person would never take their car to a dealer those things to start with. These are a good bus. I had a V50 before the V70 and the fibre optic was a pain in the arse as I always upgrade my audio.
Pretty decent report that, more than worth repairing to just cruise about in over winter
Had a engine management light up for two years. Goes in for service, still there, not mentioned at all by the main dealer. I mentioned it, reply was, does the car run ok , Yes it runs well. Then nothing to worry about was the reply. So today light is up.. And done 15k . Obviously just a glitch and no one wants to know. It's not a Volvo, it's a Citroen. Thanks for your video. Interesting one.
better than when I took a very old Vauxhall for an MOT - the tester said 'Let me put it this way, there's nothing wrong that a whole new car wouldn't put right'
Really not bad for the mileage. Been neglected but not too far gone by any means! Poor car needs saving! Keep loving it!😊
I'd put it through an MOT first and then fix what comes up there before doing cosmetics.
It's got a cassetteplayer! That's nice because some artists have been releasing cassettes of their album lately😊 But seriously, my impression is that Volvo's are virtually indestructable. Spare parts can be bought everywhere, new and used. I can't help you though, firstly, I'm not a mechanic and secondly, I live in The Netherlands.
You should definitely consider rebuilding the XC90 mate 👍👍
Fix it up Joel!, it doesn’t deserve to die, it’s come this far!
Love to see this rebuild done on a budget.... the mighty Internet.. EBay...and FB Marketplace... could be your 3 Amigos
I also have an XC90 exrctutive d5 phase 1. Its been demoted to farm truck duties as i felt it was costing too much to keep repairing odd parts, watching this video makes me think it wasnt that bad afterall 🙈😂. To get the screen on the dash to go up, you have to click enter on the back of the steering wheel twice. The disc and player for that satnav is under the passanger seat. Sometimes u have to op and eject the disc and put it back in and it will work again
Mm? Main dealers. Got a quote for over £2000 from Mercedes dealer a couple of years ago during a recall. It was a free safety check. All fixed for under £200 at a local garage.
Be careful with courtesy cars, the insurance can sometimes be third party only
All main dealer garages are well TT, and so is their pricing! I have had 7 Volvos over the years and looked after them myself, literally bugger paying what nowadays £70,80 pound per hour + for labour, and there is only one "technician" in the garage (the one that can read) the rest are lowly grease monkeys! Get to know your Volvo Especially the engine !! I bought a 240 DL Estate years ago ,my first Volvo, bought it from a guy who bought it new, he drove from Chingford to Birmingham once a week to buy foam to sell on his market stall so no heavy graft. I got it cheap because it was running rough, I knew that, so did a few checks diagnosed valve problems stripped it down and sure enough valves were all bad, rang the guy and asked what fuel he used, as I thought he was using 4 star, they are built to run on 2 star. Anyhow made a list of everything I wanted to replace and as a comparison went to Volvo and got prices, not going to bother with everything but, head gasket set £40:00 one valve £9:80. (this was around 1986/7. Rang a pal of mine to ask him where he gets hits parts from, told him what I was doing and he said that engine is a British Leyland 2.1 litre, got to So And So in Walthamstow and tell them it's for as Triumph 2000 BL 2127cc engine like the police used! Off I went head gasket set £10:00 Valves were £3:00 each, or thereabouts if I recall there was a few pennies difference from exhaust to inlet. I bought all new valves Gaskets springs all I needed and they lent me the whole box of valve shims for free, just do my job and put mine back in the box! I doubt Volvo would have done that!! A bit of history, Volvo bought the engines from B L as it was then , in parts then they totally re machined all of the necessary to their tolerances and spec's, assembled and used those engines, and bloody good they were too. That car was as smooth as silk well economical and a delight to drive, my wife used to fill it, in and out, and take our boys and go to the coast windsurfing we kept that car for 8 years, but eventually due to our climate it rusted badly. If I recall the 340's Volvos used Renault engines and they were in backwards, ie No 1 was at the bulkhead and 4 was in front.
Save this one Joel, reach out to the Volvo owners groups and see if they can help with the fibre optic issue, the service and mechanical stuff get stuck in and get it fixed. That car will be a belter once it’s sorted. No spoilers, but the MOT history is quite interesting as well, be good to do a vid on that as well, the cars done no mileage at all over the last few years, which makes this history somewhat interesting. Good luck mate, if you were up north I’d give you a hand mate
That honestly doesn't seem to bad, the rear brakes will need shoes and fitting kit too, only fit genuine as non genuine won't hold a handbrake and fail mot.
Abs rings will have split and worn through the abs sensors too so will need 2 new sensors aswell (volvo tech)
Just get garage to fit tyres. Trim is not critical. Buy suspension bits and fit them. Lighys could be polished. 5k is steep...
It would be interesting to see how good the Chinese xc40 is at 300k if it gets that far.
The optional premium (as opposed to the already mighty high performance system standard on the SE models) stereo on the Volvos of that era were stonking. 4x75w amp, 13 speakers and premium speakers/subwoofer. Had one in my 2004 s60. Only the Lexus LS came close. You should save this car just for this, and can purchase a USB /iPhone-in lead for them for around £100 which allows top quality Spotify/tidal direct playback. Trust me it’s ridiculous…..
I reckon this car could be saved (certainly through an MOT) for under a grand. You say that it has an engine that nobody wants - wrong, the d5 is always the sought-after version due to being a bulletproof engine that goes on forever with regular maintenance (the original or latest owner obviously stopped caring sadly), combing lots of power and torque with superb economy. I’d save it definitively.
The whole exercise was to take this vehicle off the road no matter what, they give you a nice new Volvo to tease you into getting a new or nearly new replacement Volvo.
300k Miles is nothing for a D5 Engine. There's a reason why most commercial vehicles are Diesel - reliability. I've a 2003 S60 with over 580k on the clock and it's still a beast.
The car has stood the test of time and hard use. I've driven it round Europe three times, towing a Caravan. Regular maintenance is the key - and I do my own.
The only problems that have occurred are the ones you'll see on every other vehicle of the same age.
Great video on the Volvo! I own a garage based in Dartford called MSO Performance. We will be happy to help you with anything you aren’t able to do yourself 😃.
Great vid - very informative - you are extremely good on camera with a good voice!
I know it’s a difficult decision to spend money on something that you most probably wouldn’t get back, but! It would be very interesting to see if you could put all those things right for the eBay price! And to see the car with new wheels lights etc!
he'll get the money back just from the youtube income.
It's a great video for promoting independent specialists. Four new tyres from Volvo MD. What was their quote on those?
So fixed with parts and a tame mechanic £1400, depends on what you can sell it for, but with no mot I expect 200-300, I would fix it, better the shit heap you know than the one you don't.
Basically by selling it you will have £1700 in your pocket, what you going to get with that?
I would also add to my comments, that murdering an old girl for the sake of a few parts is like putting your old dog down because it farts a lot.
Felt like this when I took one of my multiple Porsches to get checked it was an older Porsche with unknown history.
The xc40 is only fwd these days. Just bought one. Off road mode just tames controls with more torque also
Hi it’s worth repairing there nice cars always wanted one . Find a sponsor to take it on . Just shows the prices online to a dealer prices which is mostly labour cost . Very doable . Being the se does it have the cabby box fridge