Cogging is caused by the motor not being able to report/the esc not being able to sense where the motor is in the rotation to energise the poles in the correct order. Sensored solves it by allowing the ESC to sense where the motor is in it's rotation and fire the correct pole to begin the motor's acceleration. Sensorless systems are ok once moving as the ESC is synced using back emf so it understands the position of the motor so long as it is moving. Because of this, overgearing or using a sensorless motor car on surfaces that it is harder to move on (up hills, long grass, mud etc.) Will cause it to cog more as the resistance to the motor spinning means it takes longer for the esc to get a handle on which pole it should be energising to pull the rotor of the motor in the correct direction. TL:DR if you get bad cogging, you are geared too high in general, or at the very least geared too high for the surface you are running on. It is nothing to do with anything else whatsoever. Best way to avoid with a sensorless system is to go low KV and high voltage rather than using high KV and long gearing with a lower voltage to achieve the same speed.
@@gavingowing7572 general consensus is that 1/10th stuff would be running 2/3s lipo on around a 3200-4000 KV motor, geared high to get the speed. Recommended battery would be 5000+ mah with at least 50C discharge rate (though C printed on pack generally means nothing in the real world as standardised testing doesn't exist). I would suggest a setup for the same situation would be a smaller 4s lipo, say 3500-4000mah, still a good 50c pack minimum, paired with a 2500ish KV motor on similar gearing. It will run cooler, more efficiently, and cogging will be kept to a minimum. The battery won't need to be as big as amp draw will be less as higher voltage for the same performance uses less amps to get there. This is why full size electric cars run 400-800 volts. Just for example, well set up speed run cars that are capable of over 200mph only pull around 200a on a run on 12s, which is a lot, but far less than you would think. If they were to do the same run using higher KV motors and less voltage, amp draw would be far higher.
This video came up as a recommendation based on a recent search for videos of the Granite 4x4 Mega, so I could see what people were doing with it. I found a scratch n' dent model for pretty cheap and figured it might be worth getting. Regarding overheating, I had an HPI Flux brushless motor that overheated in a Stampede 2WD with stock brushed gearing. In my case, it was just a bad one. GoolRC is generally pretty decent for the price, though. I'm certain I've used one or more of their motors, at least.
Good to know! This truck stripped the spur gear running in 2wd so looks like plenty of power. I’ll be getting a metal spur now and we’ll see how it goes
I bought a Goolrc esc/motor brushless 3s 3300kv motor, The esc fried on me in 7days,the motor I've been using in my granite mega the past 3 days with a 20t pinion 48 p and the stock spur gear it's badass wheelies galore.never bought a Goolrc esc again so that esc was faulty.😎🤪🤪👍🤟🤐🤬😜💀
I bought 1 brushless esc and motor combo the esc took a shit in 7days now the 3300kv motor runs tits I use it as a backup motor . Is it possible to use a tap and dye on a blx motor because two mounting holes stripped I bought it used & have got a lot of more then solid runs
The issue is not your radio ! Those off brand esc motor combo don't allow you to properly calibrate the motor to esc at dead center . Get a Hobbywing esc $40 -$50 and watch what happens when you have properly calibrated and set up LVC .
i also had the same. Fried one motor on factory settings. Returned it, shop replaced the motor but that still overheats. i think it is f**cked up design!
Great video! In my country it’s cheaper to buy the 2wd version and convert to 4wd and make brushless myself than to buy the already 4wd brushless version. Do you know if the brushless 4wd has any other better components than the 2wd except for electronics?
I run a hobby wing max 10 and 4000kv motor on 2s. No heat and no cogging. It has a 14t pinion. Gonna swap te pinion to 18t this week so it gets a bit more speed. Its kinda slow on a big field of grass but its fast enough in the woods.
@@makestuffbetter19 it works fine so far. After about 20 mins on the grass it gets a littlr warm. I dont have a temp gun but can still keep my vingers on it
@@makestuffbetter19 so did run the Granite again today. It gets hot but not to extreem. Ran it in the woods, no heat problems there. Were it gets hot is in the open field were run run it fast and top speed a lot. Only thing is, on a 14t i get 30mins runtime. On the 18t thats only 20 mins. So it cuts the runtime down a lot. But did a lot of high speed since the 18t is on it. Might get more runtime when its more on the trails in the woods.
@@matthijsvandeweerd1415 hoi Matthijs. Hobby Wing 3652SL 4000 kV brushless motor en een Hobby Wing WP-MAX10-SCT. In de bossen blijft de motor koel met 18t/91. Op het grass word hij iets warm. In het bos red ik precies 30min maar laatst op lang gras en heel zacht zand(speeltuin) maar 17 min. En toen was hij wel echt vrij heet.
Motor and esc are. Chewed all the teeth right off the spur. So I upgraded to the cheapest metal one I found on Amazon and nothing but trouble with that. So get a solid spur and slipper assembly.
Man I would be very happy with that conversion, great job. For 3s it's doing great, sweet little setup right now. Looks like alot fun... As for the cogging it's just a 4 pole sensorless motor, I don't think that will improve. Would be interesting to see if you can improve that though. Great video, it's fun figuring that stuff out...
It’s pretty fun! My next improvement will be to change the receiver and radio and see if the low end acceleration gets better cuz I think it’s the lack of punch in the low end that is mostly causing the cogging but we’ll find out!
@@makestuffbetter19 I am eager to see how that turns out, I have learned to live with cogging in most sensorless brushless motors. Would be cool to have tangible proof on what to do to fix the problem. Good luck!
I bought the same one 4x4granite brushed version mega & 1st run it got way overheated plus it wasn't even close to the rated 30mph out of the box maybe 15mph,🤬🖕so I bought a blx100 system used for 100.00 3200 kv blx motor 1st i put the system in my highly modified Frankenstein slash it's kickass but put it in the granite and the granite badass not as fast as frankenslash but still is pretty badass 🤬✌️🤪🤟😜😎
I am about to make the conversion of my Mega to a brushless using the QUICRUN 10BL120 G2 Brushless ESC / 3660SL G2 3150KV Motor Combo. Is there anything else that needs to be changed on the truck for a brushless conversion?
You've probably figured this out by now but posting for others. As the OP said you need the blx slipper (spend the $ on oem) and a matching pinion. Don't get a metal spur as the plastic spur is a good sacrificial part...and should be fine anyway as it has less/beefier teeth than the brushed mega spur.
U have any cog issues with yours in the grass on a slop just wondering its still under warrenty I just got it a fiew days ago on the road no cog I don't know if its a brushless thing or what
youtube doesn't let me add links in the description yet. This is the exact on I bought if you haven't found it yet. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZXNYKFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Cogging is caused by the motor not being able to report/the esc not being able to sense where the motor is in the rotation to energise the poles in the correct order.
Sensored solves it by allowing the ESC to sense where the motor is in it's rotation and fire the correct pole to begin the motor's acceleration.
Sensorless systems are ok once moving as the ESC is synced using back emf so it understands the position of the motor so long as it is moving.
Because of this, overgearing or using a sensorless motor car on surfaces that it is harder to move on (up hills, long grass, mud etc.) Will cause it to cog more as the resistance to the motor spinning means it takes longer for the esc to get a handle on which pole it should be energising to pull the rotor of the motor in the correct direction.
TL:DR if you get bad cogging, you are geared too high in general, or at the very least geared too high for the surface you are running on. It is nothing to do with anything else whatsoever. Best way to avoid with a sensorless system is to go low KV and high voltage rather than using high KV and long gearing with a lower voltage to achieve the same speed.
That's really good info! I'll be messing with that. the KV is a bit high so that could definitely be a big part of the issue.
What would be a good electronic setup for no clogging or delay?
@@gavingowing7572 general consensus is that 1/10th stuff would be running 2/3s lipo on around a 3200-4000 KV motor, geared high to get the speed. Recommended battery would be 5000+ mah with at least 50C discharge rate (though C printed on pack generally means nothing in the real world as standardised testing doesn't exist).
I would suggest a setup for the same situation would be a smaller 4s lipo, say 3500-4000mah, still a good 50c pack minimum, paired with a 2500ish KV motor on similar gearing.
It will run cooler, more efficiently, and cogging will be kept to a minimum. The battery won't need to be as big as amp draw will be less as higher voltage for the same performance uses less amps to get there. This is why full size electric cars run 400-800 volts.
Just for example, well set up speed run cars that are capable of over 200mph only pull around 200a on a run on 12s, which is a lot, but far less than you would think. If they were to do the same run using higher KV motors and less voltage, amp draw would be far higher.
This video came up as a recommendation based on a recent search for videos of the Granite 4x4 Mega, so I could see what people were doing with it. I found a scratch n' dent model for pretty cheap and figured it might be worth getting. Regarding overheating, I had an HPI Flux brushless motor that overheated in a Stampede 2WD with stock brushed gearing. In my case, it was just a bad one. GoolRC is generally pretty decent for the price, though. I'm certain I've used one or more of their motors, at least.
Good to know! This truck stripped the spur gear running in 2wd so looks like plenty of power. I’ll be getting a metal spur now and we’ll see how it goes
I bought a Goolrc esc/motor brushless 3s 3300kv motor, The esc fried on me in 7days,the motor I've been using in my granite mega the past 3 days with a 20t pinion 48 p and the stock spur gear it's badass wheelies galore.never bought a Goolrc esc again so that esc was faulty.😎🤪🤪👍🤟🤐🤬😜💀
I bought 1 brushless esc and motor combo the esc took a shit in 7days now the 3300kv motor runs tits I use it as a backup motor . Is it possible to use a tap and dye on a blx motor because two mounting holes stripped I bought it used & have got a lot of more then solid runs
I have a Senton and Granite, both mega, that have a GoolRC 3s brushless motor/ESC. Both work great.
That's great! I noticed this granite was really slow on acceleration when it was brushed also, maybe it's just my particular one.
@@hunteryearwood9761 yes
Does the electronics have any cogging or delay?
@@gavingowing7572 no
@@NTX_RC can you tell me where you found the esc and motor?
The issue is not your radio ! Those off brand esc motor combo don't allow you to properly calibrate the motor to esc at dead center . Get a Hobbywing esc $40 -$50 and watch what happens when you have properly calibrated and set up LVC .
Awesome! I definitely want to try that!
i also had the same. Fried one motor on factory settings. Returned it, shop replaced the motor but that still overheats. i think it is f**cked up design!
Great video! In my country it’s cheaper to buy the 2wd version and convert to 4wd and make brushless myself than to buy the already 4wd brushless version. Do you know if the brushless 4wd has any other better components than the 2wd except for electronics?
as far as i know the components are the same
@@makestuffbetter19 ah okay. How has it been holding up? Have you had a lot of breakage from jumping etc? Heard the gears can be a weak point?
I run a hobby wing max 10 and 4000kv motor on 2s. No heat and no cogging. It has a 14t pinion. Gonna swap te pinion to 18t this week so it gets a bit more speed. Its kinda slow on a big field of grass but its fast enough in the woods.
Dude! I’d be interested to know how the bigger pinion does with heat.
@@makestuffbetter19 it works fine so far. After about 20 mins on the grass it gets a littlr warm. I dont have a temp gun but can still keep my vingers on it
@@makestuffbetter19 so did run the Granite again today. It gets hot but not to extreem. Ran it in the woods, no heat problems there. Were it gets hot is in the open field were run run it fast and top speed a lot. Only thing is, on a 14t i get 30mins runtime. On the 18t thats only 20 mins. So it cuts the runtime down a lot. But did a lot of high speed since the 18t is on it. Might get more runtime when its more on the trails in the woods.
Which motor do you excactly use? And do you know rough speed on tarmac? Cheers dude
@@matthijsvandeweerd1415 hoi Matthijs. Hobby Wing 3652SL 4000 kV brushless motor en een Hobby Wing WP-MAX10-SCT. In de bossen blijft de motor koel met 18t/91. Op het grass word hij iets warm. In het bos red ik precies 30min maar laatst op lang gras en heel zacht zand(speeltuin) maar 17 min. En toen was hij wel echt vrij heet.
Hey , thanks for sharing . Is this still working good ?
Motor and esc are. Chewed all the teeth right off the spur. So I upgraded to the cheapest metal one I found on Amazon and nothing but trouble with that. So get a solid spur and slipper assembly.
Try calibrating the esc to the controller. Esc may not be giving true full throttle.
I’ll give that a shot!
Man I would be very happy with that conversion, great job. For 3s it's doing great, sweet little setup right now. Looks like alot fun... As for the cogging it's just a 4 pole sensorless motor, I don't think that will improve. Would be interesting to see if you can improve that though. Great video, it's fun figuring that stuff out...
It’s pretty fun! My next improvement will be to change the receiver and radio and see if the low end acceleration gets better cuz I think it’s the lack of punch in the low end that is mostly causing the cogging but we’ll find out!
@@makestuffbetter19 I am eager to see how that turns out, I have learned to live with cogging in most sensorless brushless motors. Would be cool to have tangible proof on what to do to fix the problem. Good luck!
Thanks! I might have the parts to try it. I’ll have to take a look.
Did you try a pinion with less teeth ?
@@RichardS-o8b I have and it does improve the cogging abit but it makes it too slow overall, under geared...
Got that combo but couldn’t find the setting card on ebay or anything to make it run properly
did you try amazon? that's where i got mine. i'm not sure if it's discontinued by now.
@@makestuffbetter19 Tried everything and nothing, guess in gonna have to buy a more expensive system for it
I bought the same one 4x4granite brushed version mega & 1st run it got way overheated plus it wasn't even close to the rated 30mph out of the box maybe 15mph,🤬🖕so I bought a blx100 system used for 100.00 3200 kv blx motor 1st i put the system in my highly modified Frankenstein slash it's kickass but put it in the granite and the granite badass not as fast as frankenslash but still is pretty badass 🤬✌️🤪🤟😜😎
I am about to make the conversion of my Mega to a brushless using the QUICRUN 10BL120 G2 Brushless ESC / 3660SL G2 3150KV Motor Combo. Is there anything else that needs to be changed on the truck for a brushless conversion?
A quality slipper clutch and spur. This one are the teeth of the plastic spur, and I got a cheap slipper that broke right away.
You've probably figured this out by now but posting for others. As the OP said you need the blx slipper (spend the $ on oem) and a matching pinion. Don't get a metal spur as the plastic spur is a good sacrificial part...and should be fine anyway as it has less/beefier teeth than the brushed mega spur.
@@bytemuncher1 Yes, that is precisely what I did. Thanks a lot.
t0 on programmer will stay on anf the programmer will so second light if you want 12 for example you set the second light to 10 and 2 thats your 12
I ended up figuring that out afterwards. Thank you tho! I appreciate it!
Everything broke esc caught fire replaced with 80a the motor pin snapped
That’s crazy! But I’m sure the quality control for gool RC is terrible. Did Amazon give you a refund?
U have any cog issues with yours in the grass on a slop just wondering its still under warrenty I just got it a fiew days ago on the road no cog I don't know if its a brushless thing or what
It does seem like I’m the grass or or anywhere it takes more to get going it cogs a little more.
@@makestuffbetter19 thanks
This is keven talbot?
I had same issue 7 motors later
Lol.
set your min start to 25% it should help cogging
That's a great idea! thanks!
Do you have an link of the product?
youtube doesn't let me add links in the description yet. This is the exact on I bought if you haven't found it yet. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZXNYKFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
What gearing? I'm interested in upgrading my granite
This is the stock spur and a 13t pinion
If your running 3s I recommend a 20t pinion and keep your stock spur very fast & wheelies galore it's Great 🤟👍🤪😎💪🤐✌️😜💀