Thank you for not editing out the trial and error process here. It’s very reassuring to someone just starting out. It’s hard to learn how much force to apply and the calibration gauge is brilliant.
I have screwed up somehow.... got the spring in but Im afraid that I have put it together and it only opens halfway. Of course meaning I can’t turn it to the other configuration. Not sure what I messed up.
@@Ph0t0bug Someone else said something similar - I suggested checking the orientation of the core but never heard back (should be able to pull it back out again). The way the teeth on the core are arranged, in particular the skinny teeth that have to "escape" through gaps at the end of the tracks. One set of teeth is centred but the other is to one side. I suspect the offset teeth are not aligned with their correct tracks (but the centred teeth are). That was the 50/50 dilemma I was referring to in the first video. (by orientation, I mean the core being rotated 90 degrees or so, relative to the half with the offset/non-centred gaps)
I was finally able to get the two parts off the core. Going to watch the video again. I understand the off set part, Im just having trouble seeing it on the core. Is there an up or down to the core or can it be installed either way?
Quick Update: Part of this issue I think is / will be paint. On the nib on the inside of each half had paint on them. This caused the core to stick to the half that had the best grip on it. I still need to find a spring that will work to push the core off the nib(s). Ill let you know of anything I find along the path. Thanks for the help so far.
Just so I understand, the first object is a gauge used to determine how close you set the spacing in your slicer to enable it to break free when you print the gear cassette in place?
I printed it, I was able to open it once printed, closed it again... and now its locked forever, I cant seem to be able to open it. Seems I will never learn the secrets of the flesh...
Thank you for not editing out the trial and error process here. It’s very reassuring to someone just starting out. It’s hard to learn how much force to apply and the calibration gauge is brilliant.
Thanks, there was plenty that was edited out, though. Each print comes out different and finds a new way to be difficult!
Thank you!! Been having a hell of a time with it
emphasis on the hell part.
@@drswag0076 bah dum tiss lol
@@PropGuru702 thank you i'll be here all week.
Mind if I ask what the size of the spring is? I was finally able to get the Planetary Gear working with your help. Thanks!
Glad to hear it. The spring is 5mm OD x 45mm, ie. same height as the core (was actually longer and I trimmed it down to size)
I have screwed up somehow.... got the spring in but Im afraid that I have put it together and it only opens halfway. Of course meaning I can’t turn it to the other configuration. Not sure what I messed up.
@@Ph0t0bug Someone else said something similar - I suggested checking the orientation of the core but never heard back (should be able to pull it back out again). The way the teeth on the core are arranged, in particular the skinny teeth that have to "escape" through gaps at the end of the tracks. One set of teeth is centred but the other is to one side. I suspect the offset teeth are not aligned with their correct tracks (but the centred teeth are). That was the 50/50 dilemma I was referring to in the first video. (by orientation, I mean the core being rotated 90 degrees or so, relative to the half with the offset/non-centred gaps)
I was finally able to get the two parts off the core. Going to watch the video again. I understand the off set part, Im just having trouble seeing it on the core. Is there an up or down to the core or can it be installed either way?
Quick Update: Part of this issue I think is / will be paint. On the nib on the inside of each half had paint on them. This caused the core to stick to the half that had the best grip on it. I still need to find a spring that will work to push the core off the nib(s). Ill let you know of anything I find along the path. Thanks for the help so far.
Just so I understand, the first object is a gauge used to determine how close you set the spacing in your slicer to enable it to break free when you print the gear cassette in place?
Yep, just a calibration tool to get your slicer and printer dialled in. If it's overextruding heaps for example the gears will fuse solid.
I printed it, I was able to open it once printed, closed it again... and now its locked forever, I cant seem to be able to open it. Seems I will never learn the secrets of the flesh...
Keep going...
I printed 4 cores and I've tried what you did each time I for the life if me can't it to move any other tricks I'm getting frustrated lmao
Without seeing what is going on, my guess is overextrusion or elephants foot. Try lowering flow rate 5% and/or using a raft, maybe?
dont do it if if you dont know how to .... australian or sheet