Most of these wheels were used for sharpening sickles, scythes, billhooks, axes etc - the user just let the tool follow the contour of the wheel. Only if you are sharpening chisel or plane blades held on the rest does the wheel need to be true, and even these can be held by hand to follow the wheel. Being natural stone, these wheels have variable hardness and wear resistance across their diameter, even if trued they will often soon go out of round - continual truing will rapidly wear them out...
Mostly right, however scythes and sickles were usually sharpened by peining (hammering) as this also work hardened the single bevel cutting edge and was done in the field with a hammer and dolly
Maintenance-Do not leave the stone soaking in the trough. I prefer to use a drip can. Do not leave the stone in the sun. Especially do not leave the stone in the sun with the stone also in the water. The sun will dry out the stone on which ever side it is shining the most. As it is dried it shrinks. If the stone is submerged in a trough it absorbs water and swell some. The swelling and shrinking will cause the stone to go very much out of round. The converging stresses could crack the whole thing. I prefer to use a drip can. More than anything, do not leave the stone submerged in the trough in the winter and let it freeze.
I've looked it up and the gas pipe IS IN FACT the classic way of doing it, very cool! Will give it a try. I really need a ROUND stone so I finally get CONCAVE chisel bevels! And yeah you really have to protect yourself from the dust!
I just acquired a treadle grinding wheel at an estate sale this very morning. Well, most of one. It has the wheel, the frame, a seat, most of the legs (rust has claimed part of one leg) but no pedals and much of the support straps are missing. I intend to restore that monster back to usability and this video will certainly help. Thank you!
If you leave the wheel set in thatbwater it will get soft and that maybe why it is out of round, mine had a drip funnel on it but was well rusted out when I recieved it
in the workplace i was intern we used a small diamond to true up the stone. except that was ofcourse and electric powered stone and the diamond point was secured in a tool holder so that was easy ofcourse.
If hand held, with no depth of cut control, there is a natural tendency for the dressing tool to go in and come out with the undulations of the uneven wheel. I use a piece of 1" dia threaded bar and 2 lock nuts which are pressed up hard against the operator side of the tool rest . This system keeps the depth of cut absolutely the same all round the wheel and, provided the tool rest is accurately set perpendicular to the wheel , will give a flat true surface across the whole width. Quick and simple to adjust as the cut progresses. [the business end is a large chunk of tungsten carbide brazed on]
Because the pole I was using was big and heavy there was no problem of following the hollows and bumps of the wheel. Good and important point you make, and a simple solution you offer. I will have to try your tungsten carbide trick. I have only just started learning to weld.
Yeah right, dress it dry... that way you won't get water on yourself and don't forget to inhale the dust from the sandstone, it does a body good. Grinders all over Europe were very fond of their silicosis or grinder's asthma as it was called - it was a badge of honour amongst them. Shame the safety Sallies got rid of the sandstones, really ...
Most of these wheels were used for sharpening sickles, scythes, billhooks, axes etc - the user just let the tool follow the contour of the wheel. Only if you are sharpening chisel or plane blades held on the rest does the wheel need to be true, and even these can be held by hand to follow the wheel. Being natural stone, these wheels have variable hardness and wear resistance across their diameter, even if trued they will often soon go out of round - continual truing will rapidly wear them out...
Mostly right, however scythes and sickles were usually sharpened by peining (hammering) as this also work hardened the single bevel cutting edge and was done in the field with a hammer and dolly
Leaving them with the lower half resting in the water bath will rapidly send them out of true
Interesting, but how did they sharpen swords?
American scythe are sharpened with stone. Austrian are peened. I controversially like both.@@Oldskoolbloke
Maintenance-Do not leave the stone soaking in the trough. I prefer to use a drip can. Do not leave the stone in the sun. Especially do not leave the stone in the sun with the stone also in the water. The sun will dry out the stone on which ever side it is shining the most. As it is dried it shrinks. If the stone is submerged in a trough it absorbs water and swell some. The swelling and shrinking will cause the stone to go very much out of round. The converging stresses could crack the whole thing. I prefer to use a drip can. More than anything, do not leave the stone submerged in the trough in the winter and let it freeze.
Absolutely right. Mine has a tap at the bottom to drain down after use.
There is a trick to this ... Remembering to use it ;
I've looked it up and the gas pipe IS IN FACT the classic way of doing it, very cool! Will give it a try. I really need a ROUND stone so I finally get CONCAVE chisel bevels!
And yeah you really have to protect yourself from the dust!
I trued my small stone wheel running my diamond Grinder as it turned, worked fine. love the big wheel, could you show some axe sharpening on it.
I just acquired a treadle grinding wheel at an estate sale this very morning. Well, most of one. It has the wheel, the frame, a seat, most of the legs (rust has claimed part of one leg) but no pedals and much of the support straps are missing. I intend to restore that monster back to usability and this video will certainly help. Thank you!
Good luck and all the best for your renovation
If you leave the wheel set in thatbwater it will get soft and that maybe why it is out of round, mine had a drip funnel on it but was well rusted out when I recieved it
Nice! very informative video!
in the workplace i was intern we used a small diamond to true up the stone.
except that was ofcourse and electric powered stone and the diamond point was
secured in a tool holder so that was easy ofcourse.
If hand held, with no depth of cut control, there is a natural tendency for the dressing tool to go in and come out with the undulations of the uneven wheel. I use a piece of 1" dia threaded bar and 2 lock nuts which are pressed up hard against the operator side of the tool rest . This system keeps the depth of cut absolutely the same all round the wheel and, provided the tool rest is accurately set perpendicular to the wheel , will give a flat true surface across the whole width. Quick and simple to adjust as the cut progresses. [the business end is a large chunk of tungsten carbide brazed on]
Because the pole I was using was big and heavy there was no problem of following the hollows and bumps of the wheel. Good and important point you make, and a simple solution you offer. I will have to try your tungsten carbide trick. I have only just started learning to weld.
I have one of those. I use it to sharpen my lawn mower blades.
Bevel setting on tools. This wheel will remove metal from any metal object without over heating the edge.
Breathing stone dust is very, very bad... better to be a little muddy, or wear dust protection.
they put stone dust on sticks of gum. not all stone dust is bad.
Yeah right, dress it dry... that way you won't get water on yourself and don't forget to inhale the dust from the sandstone, it does a body good. Grinders all over Europe were very fond of their silicosis or grinder's asthma as it was called - it was a badge of honour amongst them. Shame the safety Sallies got rid of the sandstones, really ...
We're can I buy one of those ?
With smaller wheels I have found a piece of fractured spark plug porcelain works very well, extremely hard and holds its edge.
Get you a respirator. Don't want silicosis.
You mean pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis
1 min of a dyson commercial before I could watch the video.
lagu. Jawa. kuno lagu Jawa kuno