Hey guys! A few tips from 4+ decades of fibreglass work that might help. First, you do not need to use fibreglass matting with Epoxy ever! Matting has a binder that is designed for Polyester/ Vinylester resins so epoxies will not properly wet the fibres. Wet matting out with polyester sometime and note how the laminate looks so clear that you can almost see through it while with Epoxies it looks all milky. Matt is needed with Polyesters to increase the bond between cloth or woven fabrics and or the freshly ground surface you are applying the glass to. A good fibreglass roller is really important with Polyesters to get all of the air out since the cure of the resin is air inhibited so will weaken the laminate. With Epoxies, use a fibreglass cloth that has a binder/coating suitable for epoxies and you will find that it wets better and is much easier to work with too. The epoxy bond strength is high enough that you simply don't need matt and by eliminating the matt which increases the glass to resin ratio which means more strength so you win all of the way around except that cloth is more expensive per pound. With the scarf ratio that you cut on your deck ( looks like more than 10 times the thickness) Polyester or better Vinylester would have worked just fine and actually has a few advantages over the West Epoxy such as temperature resistance, hardness. Contrary to what is often published, Polyester or better Vinylester bonds to old Polyester can be quite strong if done correctly. Try scarfing (10:1) pcs. of scrap glass together and breaking them and see where they break..it can be a real eye opener. One more thing, you will get your best bond to freshly ground fibreglass by just vacuuming or brushing off the dust. Wiping with a thinner can greatly reduce the bond, even if you are using a clean solvent like Acetone. Keep in mind that polyester/fiberglass laminates are porous so they will soak up your solvent, dissolve out stuff in the resin, binders from the glass etc. that will then contaminate the surface...not good. It is ok to wipe the fibreglass surface before you grind it to remove wax and crud that will get into your grinding disc and be transferred down to the surface you want to bond to. Also, if your freshly ground surface gets rained on or sits for any length of time, grind it again just before fibreglassing. My wife and I totally admire you two and know the itch that goes with the fibreglass projects that you have been involved in with UMA! BTW, fibreglass cloth and a soft epoxy like West Sytem itches the least of all so that is one good thing to remember when paying the extra $$ for materials. (grin) All the best, James and Joann
wow... thank you jimgocruisin,... I have done a lot of fiberglass repairs on a number of my boats; I would have done a lot better job (and a LOT less sanding) if I had know half of what you just explained... thank you.... and I love the UMA crews enthusiasm.
Please guys wear glasses when handling hot epoxy, if you get hardenner in yr eyes, its all over. Mask when handling sanding grinding glass, not good for the lungs. Stay safe guys. Cant believe the outboard works, omg! You guys are such hard workers!
I admire your willingness to tackle whatever comes your way, even if you have to learn by doing. And, I admire your resilience and positive attitude when things don't go quite right. Despite the comments by those who feel you should be perfect in every endeavor, the fact is that if you were going to wait around for perfection, Uma would still be sitting on the blocks in Fairhaven Marina. Instead, you are sailing, learning and living! Consider gratefully any positive, constructive criticism that is offered, ignore the negative naysayers, and sail on!
Love your channel no matter what you are doing, but I realized today that what I really like is your project videos!!! It's amazing what you guys won't try. And where you'll try it. I can't imagine fiberglassing and painting a boat at anchor or even at a pier some place where you have no tools or even backup. You are truly the masters of your own universe. This is UMA at it's best!
Hey guys, i just finished binge watching over the last several days your entire video steps. My son and I are planning a trip and I found your videos both informative and truly inspiring. You two have removed any nagging doubts iv'e had and the decision is made. Dan, I find your engineering skills both intimidating and inspiring. We will be watching your final projects and crossing to the med. See you on Patreon, I feel like I owe you for the amazing video's , and I want to see the vault. Keep up the good work and we will be with you in spirit.
Great job guys! That's a messy hot, dirty job to do. Biaxial glass was a good way to go, as well as grabbing some dock for a few days. I learned this old axiom early on..."do it right, or do it again". Or "in for a penny, in for a pound". You know what I'm sayin'! For future reference, if you ever find yourself having to do repairs and can't source biaxial, the trick is to lay down matt first, then roving, then another layer of matt on top of that (and repeat matt/roving/matt to desired/required thickness/strength). That way, the layers of matt keep the roving together and you roll out the excess resin / air once placed (after wetting out each layer on a piece of cardboard, or waxed paper as you'd done). I was a surfboard manufacturer for a number of years, but I learned those fiberglassing tricks from an old salt while working at a boatyard over a summer. Very clever, though, to grind down and glass the deck joint like that. Short term pain for long-term enjoyment of a sealed deck/hull joint!!
I watch a lot of sailing channels and each one has a unique style ... I love your style and how you keep a positive attitude and just roll with a small budget and use "what ya got".
I do fiberglass repairs on wind turbines while on ropes. You are correct, Biax is much stronger than woven. Also, you are spot on with the multiple gloves trick. I see that you started doing wet layups rather than dry (applying the resin to the mat in position). Good idea. One thing that may make wet layups even easier, especially in tricky spots, is sandwiching the wet layup between two pieces of plastic as a preparation to application. In this way, you can squeeze out any air without distorting the mat, and ensure that you aren’t over-saturating the glass by squeezing out excess resin. Then, when you’re ready to apply the layup, just pull the inner plastic off, apply the layup, and peel the outer sheet off. Really helps keep things clean if you do it right. PS: I’d love to hear more about reviving a drowned outboard.
All things considered, the week ended on a fairly good note! Dan saved the outboard (would love a video on that technique!), and the 3 of you laid down some serious fiberglass in a short period. In the end, the boat will be much drier and everyone will be much happier. Congrats!
I hate that you have to work all the time but I love how you present your diy jobs. Even labeling the bottles was a neat touch. You guys are the shiznet!
You guys are just awesome! We love following your journey! Your DIY skills are just getting better and better! Great job with the editing Kika! We love you guys, Stef and Aubs xx
Love, love, love your project vids! Don't get me wrong... I love the travelling, the sailing, and the destinations as well... But I learn so much from your project vids!!! Good on ya!
It's just amazing to see the work you do while on the hook! I would feel hestitant even taking on some of your projects in a heated shed while on the hard. Great work!
Wow just came across this and difficult to believe that you went through this. Brilliant attempt to invent the dinghy submarine...you two are true innovators👍⛵️
Tips n tricks: cut roving on the 45 for getting around corners, esters good enough, better if using csm, if no peel ply and in a jam use washed cotton fabric to ‘tame’ wild roving (just leave it in). A light spray of Super 77 will hold a weave in place while you place it and not cause issues. Enjoy no leaks!
Great work guys. Very ambitious taking on such a big project. Your positive approach and commradarie will see you through to completion. At least your in a beautiful place until voyaging resumes. My sailboat is getting similiar treatment sealing the deck to hull joint and making a new rub rail and toe rail from teak which will be painted with awlgrip. The joys of Good Old Boats never ends.
My boat has the same exact type of construction. It also leaks. I’m going to caulk both inside and out side with a special caulk. You guys are the best!
I liked the music and timelapse at the tail end of the video. Very nice! Cudo's to Mercury for making a decent motor that lets you bring it back from the deep six. I wondered while watching this if any of the original builders watch and say wow how come we did not do it that way?
Wowzer you millenials are just fearless explores... spanning oceans, venturing into new horizons and even doing a top job on repairing your boat!!! Is there nothing you guys can't turn your hands too..❤
One tip with epoxy work: if you cover fresh work with clear plastic, you can work on it with clean bare hands, shape it, squeeze excess resin (vacuum under plastic will prevent air bubbles, and compress layers). You can also press external textures over plastic. After curing it peels off easy.
I really hate to say this, but I'm so glad it's not just ME dealing with the sinking porta-bote. How about we meet up and have a good ole dink-build-off?? Much love guys. ;)
Interesting to see the thin spots being shown up by the inside lighting. Worth checking out, as you may want to thicken some of those areas up, perhaps from underneath, if they coincide with deck fittings.
Kevin Deckert ah! An Only Fools and Horses fan. Well done Sir, you have are now my new favorite person in the world. Well. Next to my wife..and family... and friends. Well you’re up There. Be grateful. m.ruclips.net/video/BUl6PooveJE/видео.html
Reminds me of my skimboard work. With that first cloth , my trick was to put a thick layer of epoxy down first and put the cloth on it, pressing it into the epoxy. Then, more epoxy on top of that. Worked pretty well. That's the only cloth I've worked with and its been a long time.
Great job... and great video guys! You've taught me a lot about fiberglassing. Where are you.. in fresh water?? I'm so accustom to sailing in the BVIs... and I miss it so much. I hope I've got enough time, since I've retired in Mississippi... to get back down there. I lived and worked in STT for 5 years and bareboated there for several years. You're videos keep me up to date with what it takes to sail on! You do a great job for a Captain... now landlocked in a Reservoir with my Catalina 30.... It's just not the Caribbean... Take care... Best wishes and following seas!
Biaxial is a much better choice than woven. Also, be careful with CSM and epoxy. Most CSM is designed for use with polyester as it is bound with a binder that is dissolved by polyester, but not epoxy. It won't laminate properly with epoxy. Admire your tenacity as always. Great video.
Are you sure dumping the dust from sanding into the water is such great idea? That stuff is toxic! Fiberglass: use a roller instead of a brush, put tape on it and cut through that. Only remove tape after epoxy has hardened.
Good thing about glassing, you are always learning new tricks. One thing you can do to keep the resin from curing so fast too is to ad a bit less hardener agent and yes keeping the resin and hardener in a cool place is also key. You need to have enough pot-life so you can get your project done. You done very well especially since you are having to pour everything free hand.
D Graham, With an epoxy, you almost never want to alter the mix ratio. You were probably thinking that they were using Polyester where you do have a range to work with? Best, James
In my World a part of the fun having a boat is all the boatwork. I learn a lot of new Things, i laern my boat better and is always trying to make it safer. So keep op the good Work :-)
A tip on cutting woven fiberglass. If you use a spray glue on it and let it dry, you will be able to cut the fiberglass and it will keep together. You can resin over the glass just fine.
I'm a santrosa sheriff, and a okaloosa under cover police officer, I grew up here in north west Florida the jem of America. I was mad a sheriff at 13 years old,
And THAT is why there WAS a strip of closed cell foam running around the gunnels... To stop the porta-bote from sinking... and yes, I do own one and I HAVE flooded it with an outboard on the back. The motor did not go under and recovery was fairly simple.
" Bit of a downer" is the understatement of the month. Glad it all worked out - you guys/gal have really got your sh together. Question? - If someone were to do an inventory of UMA, would they find more ships spares or hats? :-) Stay safe.
$40 a week for a transient slip for a 36 foot boat? Man is that cheap. I've paid 3 times that for a night on my 30 foot boat. I'd say it's pretty much a no brainer to work on the dock for a little while at that price. Keep up the good work.
Just a thought have you tried tying it fore and aft across the stern of Uma, that way if it does fill with water all you would have to do is bale it out. And at lest the engine wouldn't get submerged.
One of the fastest ways to kill the outboard is to run it out of water. The problem is not overheating, the problem is the water pump. The impeller requires water to cool it and lubricate it. You can destroy the impeller in seconds by running dry.
What he said. I absolutely cringed when I saw that. You guys would be wise to replace that impeller. Never run them out of the water, there's absolutely no lubrication for that rubber impeller.
Suzuki released a study about ten years ago on their outboards and found that brand new impellers would fail within 20-30 seconds at idle when ran dry. This is of course with a new motor and new impeller so I would not expect 20-30 seconds with a beat up old motor and impeller.
Really looking forward to seeing your new dingy from the newer vids I watched originally. You seem to like the type of dingy you used here, but you went to a completely different type. I'm wondering if the Atlantic crossing that's upcoming changed your minds. Because the current dingy doesn't seem to float well in heavy rain and I'd imagine, nor would it in heavy Atlantic waves. So I shall have to wait and see. ;)
Good fix up job guys, now you have to drill a bunch of new holes!!!! ( or do you have another plan?). Probably too late but could you raise your toe into a mini bulwark? Much better if you don't have handrails. You could bolt a wood (or ?) Rail on the outside that would be a combo toe-rail and rub rail. Before stitched fabrics they came up with 'fab mat' that is woven roving with CSM glue to it with soluble binder to help hold the strands together better ( and improve the bond between layers). Cheers Warren
I did that same job on my erickson 30. It sucked. I recommend anyone doing this wax the heck out of the hull because alot of resen drips. Use a weave not woven roving. Good work team!
The first time I watched this video I thought you said the fiberglass was "stitched by Axel". I was wondering who the heck Axel was and why he was known for his stitching. Figured it out the second time through! :)
Well, there is lessons we learn but sometimes double is the treat.... hope it sticks this time around! Nice fiberglass job though! Part of me is happy i dont have that any more but.... steel boats come with their own share of nasty jobs... but without the itching 😉
I have a 2004 Porta-Bote with a Mercury 3.5 HP. which I think is the same as yours. I’ve got gaskets on the bolts you mentioned. But could you share how you dried out the motor after it sunk? It would be great to have that knowledge in hand.
+1 on the stitched biaxial it is a bit harder to bend around tight corners but will wet out better. another tip is to pre wet the pieces on a sheet of waxed paper and then just lay them on the hull and roll the paper and all smooth then as it cures peel off the paper
![Our Sailboat gets a MAKEOVER! - Sailing Uma [Step 115]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lOvbkQ2tdXw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Our Sailboat gets a MAKEOVER! — Sailing Uma [Step 115]](/img/tr.png)
![HURRICANE SURVIVAL TACTICS (I Stayed on the boat in HAITI) - Sailing Uma [Step 54]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/52vu7bbvqC0/mqdefault.jpg)
![No More Halyard Banging...FINALLY!- Sailing Uma [Step 209]](/img/1.gif)
Hey guys! A few tips from 4+ decades of fibreglass work that might help. First, you do not need to use fibreglass matting with Epoxy ever! Matting has a binder that is designed for Polyester/ Vinylester resins so epoxies will not properly wet the fibres. Wet matting out with polyester sometime and note how the laminate looks so clear that you can almost see through it while with Epoxies it looks all milky. Matt is needed with Polyesters to increase the bond between cloth or woven fabrics and or the freshly ground surface you are applying the glass to. A good fibreglass roller is really important with Polyesters to get all of the air out since the cure of the resin is air inhibited so will weaken the laminate. With Epoxies, use a fibreglass cloth that has a binder/coating suitable for epoxies and you will find that it wets better and is much easier to work with too. The epoxy bond strength is high enough that you simply don't need matt and by eliminating the matt which increases the glass to resin ratio which means more strength so you win all of the way around except that cloth is more expensive per pound. With the scarf ratio that you cut on your deck ( looks like more than 10 times the thickness) Polyester or better Vinylester would have worked just fine and actually has a few advantages over the West Epoxy such as temperature resistance, hardness. Contrary to what is often published, Polyester or better Vinylester bonds to old Polyester can be quite strong if done correctly. Try scarfing (10:1) pcs. of scrap glass together and breaking them and see where they break..it can be a real eye opener. One more thing, you will get your best bond to freshly ground fibreglass by just vacuuming or brushing off the dust. Wiping with a thinner can greatly reduce the bond, even if you are using a clean solvent like Acetone. Keep in mind that polyester/fiberglass laminates are porous so they will soak up your solvent, dissolve out stuff in the resin, binders from the glass etc. that will then contaminate the surface...not good. It is ok to wipe the fibreglass surface before you grind it to remove wax and crud that will get into your grinding disc and be transferred down to the surface you want to bond to. Also, if your freshly ground surface gets rained on or sits for any length of time, grind it again just before fibreglassing. My wife and I totally admire you two and know the itch that goes with the fibreglass projects that you have been involved in with UMA! BTW, fibreglass cloth and a soft epoxy like West Sytem itches the least of all so that is one good thing to remember when paying the extra $$ for materials. (grin) All the best, James and Joann
If it is possible, could you edit for a bit more clarity. :)
wow... thank you jimgocruisin,... I have done a lot of fiberglass repairs on a number of my boats; I would have done a lot better job (and a LOT less sanding) if I had know half of what you just explained... thank you.... and I love the UMA crews enthusiasm.
Thanks, great advice!
Andrew, I agree with what you are saying about the UMA crew, aren't they an incredible inspiration to watch? Best to you. James
Please guys wear glasses when handling hot epoxy, if you get hardenner in yr eyes, its all over. Mask when handling sanding grinding glass, not good for the lungs.
Stay safe guys.
Cant believe the outboard works, omg!
You guys are such hard workers!
Can you add a low profile sumppump?
from an old timer ( me) You will look back years from and have many smile of adventures, friendships and no regrets. KUDOS to All !
I admire your willingness to tackle whatever comes your way, even if you have to learn by doing. And, I admire your resilience and positive attitude when things don't go quite right. Despite the comments by those who feel you should be perfect in every endeavor, the fact is that if you were going to wait around for perfection, Uma would still be sitting on the blocks in Fairhaven Marina. Instead, you are sailing, learning and living! Consider gratefully any positive, constructive criticism that is offered, ignore the negative naysayers, and sail on!
I'll be itching for days just watching you guys working with all that fiberglass in the heat with mucho exposed skin!!!!
Love your channel no matter what you are doing, but I realized today that what I really like is your project videos!!! It's amazing what you guys won't try. And where you'll try it. I can't imagine fiberglassing and painting a boat at anchor or even at a pier some place where you have no tools or even backup. You are truly the masters of your own universe. This is UMA at it's best!
Hey guys, i just finished binge watching over the last several days your entire video steps. My son and I are planning a trip and I found your videos both informative and truly inspiring. You two have removed any nagging doubts iv'e had and the decision is made. Dan, I find your engineering skills both intimidating and inspiring. We will be watching your final projects and crossing to the med. See you on Patreon, I feel like I owe you for the amazing video's , and I want to see the vault. Keep up the good work and we will be with you in spirit.
Awe thanks! Glad to hear you like our little movies.
Knowing how to fix a sunken outboard sounds like a good life skill, always so impressed by what you manage to get up to:-)!
Great job guys! That's a messy hot, dirty job to do. Biaxial glass was a good way to go, as well as grabbing some dock for a few days. I learned this old axiom early on..."do it right, or do it again". Or "in for a penny, in for a pound". You know what I'm sayin'! For future reference, if you ever find yourself having to do repairs and can't source biaxial, the trick is to lay down matt first, then roving, then another layer of matt on top of that (and repeat matt/roving/matt to desired/required thickness/strength). That way, the layers of matt keep the roving together and you roll out the excess resin / air once placed (after wetting out each layer on a piece of cardboard, or waxed paper as you'd done). I was a surfboard manufacturer for a number of years, but I learned those fiberglassing tricks from an old salt while working at a boatyard over a summer. Very clever, though, to grind down and glass the deck joint like that. Short term pain for long-term enjoyment of a sealed deck/hull joint!!
Things like the surgical glove trick are why this S.V. channel stands out above the rest.
TY you both (Kika), lol, for all the hard work.
The projects you undertake on Uma always amaze me!
Thx for the technique. I thought i was the only one w lousy fiber mesh issues. Keep living the dream.
I watch a lot of sailing channels and each one has a unique style ... I love your style and how you keep a positive attitude and just roll with a small budget and use "what ya got".
I do fiberglass repairs on wind turbines while on ropes. You are correct, Biax is much stronger than woven. Also, you are spot on with the multiple gloves trick.
I see that you started doing wet layups rather than dry (applying the resin to the mat in position). Good idea. One thing that may make wet layups even easier, especially in tricky spots, is sandwiching the wet layup between two pieces of plastic as a preparation to application. In this way, you can squeeze out any air without distorting the mat, and ensure that you aren’t over-saturating the glass by squeezing out excess resin. Then, when you’re ready to apply the layup, just pull the inner plastic off, apply the layup, and peel the outer sheet off. Really helps keep things clean if you do it right.
PS: I’d love to hear more about reviving a drowned outboard.
Three years ago this week. You've had a hell of a journey.
Great job ! what a great idea ! No more leaks ! No more bolts ! That's fantastic ! Thanks for sharing ! Cheers
All things considered, the week ended on a fairly good note! Dan saved the outboard (would love a video on that technique!), and the 3 of you laid down some serious fiberglass in a short period. In the end, the boat will be much drier and everyone will be much happier. Congrats!
I've found that 3M Super 77 spray adhesive holds dry fiberglass in place really well and has no adverse effects on final bond.
That dock was in a bug free zone ! Lucky UMA and crew ! Thanks for sharing 😎
I hate that you have to work all the time but I love how you present your diy jobs. Even labeling the bottles was a neat touch. You guys are the shiznet!
You guys are just awesome! We love following your journey! Your DIY skills are just getting better and better! Great job with the editing Kika! We love you guys, Stef and Aubs xx
I seriously enjoy your videos. Thank you for them.
Love, love, love your project vids! Don't get me wrong... I love the travelling, the sailing, and the destinations as well... But I learn so much from your project vids!!! Good on ya!
cut fg fabric 45° against main direction to stabiles the fabric and pre coat the fabric with resin bevor lay it down
It's just amazing to see the work you do while on the hook! I would feel hestitant even taking on some of your projects in a heated shed while on the hard. Great work!
You guys give me a lot of hope!
Wow just came across this and difficult to believe that you went through this. Brilliant attempt to invent the dinghy submarine...you two are true innovators👍⛵️
Tips n tricks: cut roving on the 45 for getting around corners, esters good enough, better if using csm, if no peel ply and in a jam use washed cotton fabric to ‘tame’ wild roving (just leave it in). A light spray of Super 77 will hold a weave in place while you place it and not cause issues. Enjoy no leaks!
you guys are amazing! Much respect! What a team!
I can smell the resin through this video. Love it.
It's stronger,harder and better than before! WOOHOO! NICE JOB!! PEACE OUT! Ü
Crazy resourceful people! Great Video! Fair Winds!
You guys did a great job. you made your boat much stronger, And dryer. You have a great old boat, worth fixing.
I love you guys, always a pleasure to watch and you look like such kind people!!!
Can't wait to see the finished product!
Good job, that's one you won't regret.
I swear you should have made a scissor-cutting asmr, that sound was SO SATISFYING.
Great vlog guys. I wish you all the best.
WOW WOW WOW! you guys! I'm always amazed with your courage, optimism and skills. :)
It's so nice to just glue your boat together
You guys are great problem solver‘s what an inspiration you are great videos keep them coming.
Great work guys. Very ambitious taking on such a big project. Your positive approach and commradarie will see you through to completion. At least your in a beautiful place until voyaging resumes. My sailboat is getting similiar treatment sealing the deck to hull joint and making a new rub rail and toe rail from teak which will be painted with awlgrip. The joys of Good Old Boats never ends.
Thanks guys, inspirational stuff. Love from western Australia
In the first 30 seconds I said to myself "That is a Pearson - looks like a 36! Damn good boats!!!Nice patch job btw.
Keep up the good work. I'm learning with you.
That’s a ton of work to do at anchor. Good thing the water is clear to retrieve tools.
Love the projects. Nice you had access the stitched biaxial cloth. Super pricey but so worth it!
Vocês são mto divertidos, o lado DIY de vcs é a melhor parte. vocês merecem mais followers
Did Seb know you were about to rebuild your boat before he came onboard?
Ha, but all crew know there slaves while on board.
That's how girls work. They trade ass for everything you got.......forever....
@@shaneirwin9461 Yeah and the last 50 years you don't even want it.
I was wondering the same. 😂😂😂he will be 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
lol
My boat has the same exact type of construction. It also leaks. I’m going to caulk both inside and out side with a special caulk.
You guys are the best!
Wow, What an Ambitious project/undertaking THAT was....!!😱
I liked the music and timelapse at the tail end of the video. Very nice! Cudo's to Mercury for making a decent motor that lets you bring it back from the deep six. I wondered while watching this if any of the original builders watch and say wow how come we did not do it that way?
Smart decision about eliminating those holes. They would leak again.
Thanks guys, very interesting. We'll see y'all , on the next one. You bunch of dingy sinkers, ha ha. Fair winds and following seas.⛵👍😎🐾
Wowzer you millenials are just fearless explores... spanning oceans, venturing into new horizons and even doing a top job on repairing your boat!!! Is there nothing you guys can't turn your hands too..❤
One tip with epoxy work: if you cover fresh work with clear plastic, you can work on it with clean bare hands, shape it, squeeze excess resin (vacuum under plastic will prevent air bubbles, and compress layers). You can also press external textures over plastic.
After curing it peels off easy.
I really hate to say this, but I'm so glad it's not just ME dealing with the sinking porta-bote. How about we meet up and have a good ole dink-build-off?? Much love guys. ;)
Interesting to see the thin spots being shown up by the inside lighting. Worth checking out, as you may want to thicken some of those areas up, perhaps from underneath, if they coincide with deck fittings.
UMA ia like my favorite Axe I changed the handle several times and changed the head a few times but it is still my favorite axe!
Kevin Deckert ah! An Only Fools and Horses fan. Well done Sir, you have are now my new favorite person in the world. Well. Next to my wife..and family... and friends. Well you’re up There. Be grateful.
m.ruclips.net/video/BUl6PooveJE/видео.html
writingexplained.org/ax-or-axe-difference
Great job guys!
Reminds me of my skimboard work. With that first cloth , my trick was to put a thick layer of epoxy down first and put the cloth on it, pressing it into the epoxy. Then, more epoxy on top of that. Worked pretty well. That's the only cloth I've worked with and its been a long time.
Great job... and great video guys! You've taught me a lot about fiberglassing. Where are you.. in fresh water?? I'm so accustom to sailing in the BVIs... and I miss it so much. I hope I've got enough time, since I've retired in Mississippi... to get back down there. I lived and worked in STT for 5 years and bareboated there for several years. You're videos keep me up to date with what it takes to sail on! You do a great job for a Captain... now landlocked in a Reservoir with my Catalina 30.... It's just not the Caribbean... Take care... Best wishes and following seas!
Biaxial is a much better choice than woven. Also, be careful with CSM and epoxy. Most CSM is designed for use with polyester as it is bound with a binder that is dissolved by polyester, but not epoxy. It won't laminate properly with epoxy. Admire your tenacity as always. Great video.
Just about sailing hows the rudder coming on
slowly!
Are you not ment to dry the boat before those kind of repair?
Are you sure dumping the dust from sanding into the water is such great idea? That stuff is toxic! Fiberglass: use a roller instead of a brush, put tape on it and cut through that. Only remove tape after epoxy has hardened.
another great video, keep up the good work
Good thing about glassing, you are always learning new tricks. One thing you can do to keep the resin from curing so fast too is to ad a bit less hardener agent and yes keeping the resin and hardener in a cool place is also key. You need to have enough pot-life so you can get your project done. You done very well especially since you are having to pour everything free hand.
D Graham, With an epoxy, you almost never want to alter the mix ratio. You were probably thinking that they were using Polyester where you do have a range to work with? Best, James
I liked the music when the dingy sunk...good job!!lol
You guys do such beautiful work! Sorry to hear that Dory sank again, but at least you got it running again.
dingy sunk music was amazing!
Keep It up you guys rock!
In my World a part of the fun having a boat is all the boatwork. I learn a lot of new Things, i laern my boat better and is always trying to make it safer. So keep op the good Work :-)
Thanks for posting!
A tip on cutting woven fiberglass. If you use a spray glue on it and let it dry, you will be able to cut the fiberglass and it will keep together. You can resin over the glass just fine.
As always great video!
awe, could have bought the double bias tape with matt included that comes in neat rolls. Major job to do at anchor!
Your both so talented
Nice little "fiberglass dance routine"!
Your so handy i would for sure need a newer boat and extra budget to fix these problems but your skill to identify problems i lack
I'm a santrosa sheriff, and a okaloosa under cover police officer, I grew up here in north west Florida the jem of America. I was mad a sheriff at 13 years old,
And THAT is why there WAS a strip of closed cell foam running around the gunnels... To stop the porta-bote from sinking...
and yes, I do own one and I HAVE flooded it with an outboard on the back. The motor did not go under and recovery was fairly simple.
Lol thiswashilariousindoublespeedplayback 🤣🤣🤣 great job on the boat work, you are an inspiration 😁👍🏻❤
Ha, was going to suggest biaxal and cooling the epoxy, and you've got it, well done!
" Bit of a downer" is the understatement of the month. Glad it all worked out - you guys/gal have really got your sh together. Question? - If someone were to do an inventory of UMA, would they find more ships spares or hats? :-) Stay safe.
$40 a week for a transient slip for a 36 foot boat? Man is that cheap. I've paid 3 times that for a night on my 30 foot boat. I'd say it's pretty much a no brainer to work on the dock for a little while at that price. Keep up the good work.
Love Kika's dance at 11:14!
Same
I need to get one of those portaboats to fish in. One day maybe.
damn, sunk again well at least its fresh water, cheers guys
Just a thought have you tried tying it fore and aft across the stern of Uma, that way if it does fill with water all you would have to do is bale it out. And at lest the engine wouldn't get submerged.
You can buy narrow fixed width fiberglass, in 5" and 10" widths. Its bonus is it won't fall apart like the stuff you used.
One of the fastest ways to kill the outboard is to run it out of water. The problem is not overheating, the problem is the water pump. The impeller requires water to cool it and lubricate it. You can destroy the impeller in seconds by running dry.
What he said. I absolutely cringed when I saw that. You guys would be wise to replace that impeller. Never run them out of the water, there's absolutely no lubrication for that rubber impeller.
Mike S j
Dito, oh my god dito. (eye roll)
Suzuki released a study about ten years ago on their outboards and found that brand new impellers would fail within 20-30 seconds at idle when ran dry. This is of course with a new motor and new impeller so I would not expect 20-30 seconds with a beat up old motor and impeller.
Meh! Your patreon donation will buy them a new motor anyways 😂
Really looking forward to seeing your new dingy from the newer vids I watched originally. You seem to like the type of dingy you used here, but you went to a completely different type. I'm wondering if the Atlantic crossing that's upcoming changed your minds. Because the current dingy doesn't seem to float well in heavy rain and I'd imagine, nor would it in heavy Atlantic waves. So I shall have to wait and see. ;)
great team work well done thanks
Good fix up job guys, now you have to drill a bunch of new holes!!!! ( or do you have another plan?). Probably too late but could you raise your toe into a mini bulwark? Much better if you don't have handrails. You could bolt a wood (or ?) Rail on the outside that would be a combo toe-rail and rub rail.
Before stitched fabrics they came up with 'fab mat' that is woven roving with CSM glue to it with soluble binder to help hold the strands together better ( and improve the bond between layers).
Cheers Warren
I did that same job on my erickson 30. It sucked. I recommend anyone doing this wax the heck out of the hull because alot of resen drips. Use a weave not woven roving. Good work team!
The first time I watched this video I thought you said the fiberglass was "stitched by Axel". I was wondering who the heck Axel was and why he was known for his stitching. Figured it out the second time through! :)
You guys are awesome
Well, there is lessons we learn but sometimes double is the treat.... hope it sticks this time around! Nice fiberglass job though! Part of me is happy i dont have that any more but.... steel boats come with their own share of nasty jobs... but without the itching 😉
Very Educational !
How would you guys recommend fixing the transom issue on the protebote? Might seem arbitrary.... but just wondering
I have a 2004 Porta-Bote with a Mercury 3.5 HP. which I think is the same as yours. I’ve got gaskets on the bolts you mentioned. But could you share how you dried out the motor after it sunk? It would be great to have that knowledge in hand.
+1 on the stitched biaxial it is a bit harder to bend around tight corners but will wet out better. another tip is to pre wet the pieces on a sheet of waxed paper and then just lay them on the hull and roll the paper and all smooth then as it cures peel off the paper