I will not lie, I thought you were crazy to bring this one home. It was in worse shape then even Rusty, and missing so many things. You have stayed working on it for awhile and it is coming together nicely. I think I would find a engine or build the old one, so I would not have to tear out the engine again. It's going to live and run again, nice job!
I've seen folks install bearings by using a socket to drive them in making installation easier and doesn't damage bearings. Nice to see 65 beetle coming along 😀
Super restoration of such a car, done slowly in peace, with a sense of responsibility, I can't wait for the truck too, let's see how it turns out :), good luck in the future, I'm following you with love
CT you really need a race tool. those carbon steel races dont burr very easy but they can. If you use a race tool it will insure you get them all the way down evenly without damage. Harbor freight has one and they are really cheap. great for seals too.
BOOT SEAM should be 90 Degrees to the front or back. We usually do the front. but if later it tears you can flip it over and put silicone on the cracks.
Great job; don’t forget some grease where the brake shoes contact the backing plate. Also you’re missing the front rubber bump stops on the beam. The seals on the front drums were missing as well as others have told you. Finally don’t forget the ground strap from the transaxle to the chassis. I know it’s a lot of little details that can get overlooked.
Great work your doing with your projects, I feel your audience have to realize that parts take time to get to you and they do cost money. Yes its frustrating waiting but imagine being CT waiting for them too. He does his best to give us a video when time , parts and money allow it to happen.
Fantastic video, once again! I appreciate your introspective approach and the way you walk us through your process. Also appreciate your humble approach. Very engaging. Look forward to the next one!
Grease seals??? They need to be installed just after the inner bearing. Yep. that spring tool is the right one for the job! Either that one is identical to the one I bought in the late sixties, or it is the one I sent you a good little while ago, last time you were struggling with the brake hold down springs.
CT my recommendation is to weld up as much as you can on the Bug; then go on to the GIA and weld all the parts on to it; then go on to RUSTY and weld all the parts on to it; then the 914; etc. I watch another channel besides Bad Chad. It is called Halfass Kustomes. This guy knows how to fix everything on a vehicle. He makes the pieces he needs from scratch. He only goes to buy the things he absolutely has to. You may learn alot from him as well. He and Chad might be able to help you understand how to fix the back window of the Bug.
Hey CT good to see you back, just a suggestion i would turn the rubber boots so that the nuts and bolts could be undone from underneath the car for futre access if you need to chnge them. good luck keep em coming.
Please consider painting your wheels. Also do not over tighten your wheel bearings. That can cause rapid bearing wear. Snug is plenty. Your doing fantastic, I love watching your progress !
Hang on a minute mate. Did you just start a video without saying "What's up guys, it's CT in the garage"? This is a serious lapse my friend! 😅 Great to see you back on the bug again, I've been waiting so long! If I may offer a little advice - when pushing in the wheel bearing, use a big fat socket on it, like maybe the 50mm one you use to take the back wheel off, then a bit of wood or similar, and hit that with a big hammer. That way is a lot safer than how you just did it. Also, for the axle gaiters, remember you're going to have to take them off to replace them at some point, with the car body on - so factor that in when you position them finally. You need the little nuts and bolts to be accessible. It's all a learning curve mate, and I'm learning 10x more than I'm telling you. Like you said - "we're getting there". Keep up the great work. Julian. 👍
Your standard of work has come a long way from when I first started watching many years ago. Seen my fav vehicle in the background, Rusty. When are we going to do more work on it? 🇦🇺👍👍
Oh forgot to mention. I was getting a little worried cuz I hadn’t seen a CT video for awhile. Keeping up with putting out videos is hard. I don’t think I have posted any update videos on my bus. I gotta get to editing what I have. Hopefully soon.
I find the easiest way to install bearing races is to indeed use the old ones but first grind some off the outside face edge of the old race to prevent it jamming back in the hub. Works really well, add them to the special tools draw in the box ;-)
There you go CT, gettin’ er done. Putting all the haters to rest. The rolling chassis looking good and ready for the body. Your basically done. Jaaa jk. A long way to go but at least you are on the reassembly stage. I kinda forgot what stage you were on. I’m still battling the carbs on my bud but made a little progress this weekend.
That was great CT, hey I still have my brake drum tool that looks more like a channel lock wrench. I can't post pictures here but it not only pushed the spring twist caps on but it also installed the long springs top and bottom. I bought it when I had my VW collection. wish I had known about the 200ft center hub removal tool back then. I used a 6ft pipe. haha
Hi I have been a subscriber of your channel for a long time now still having a hard time getting your latest videos please advise how can we get a chronological review thanks by the way great videos thanks
Always use a brass punch to install bearing races, if you don't press them in. Or risk damaging the bearing and destroying the bearings in short order. Preload the bearings after greasing by tightening the bolt until you can just move the washer with a screwdriver prying against it, nothing more.... and don't forget to tighten the locking bolt.
Great stuff as usual my man! This one’s looking pretty sharp! I’m intrigued to see how you sort out that horrendous rust on the outer skin in the rear. I know you’ve done the inside for the most part, but that outer skin was pretty punky as Mustie1 puts it.
The smooth shank of the shock bolt goes through the shock and the threaded end out the other side to bolt to the mount That way the threads won't chew up the bushing on the shock.
Been sitting here watching this video series for the last few days, but just out of curiosity, do you have a ultrasonic cleaner! I just suggest it because if you have certain parts, like the smaller and medium sized pieces, you can just give them a water and vinegar bath, and I should knock 99% of all the gunk off the piece make it look almost new, with very little chance of doing any damage to the piece itself. Technically you can just put it on the wheel and buff it out, but with an ultrasonic cleaner it's a lot gentler, and you're less likely to nail it in the process. You can use either one of the larger tanks that they sell, which isn't really that expensive, or he's one of the Bowie type cleaners where you just drop it in the tank and let it dangle and float on the top. Normally I keep the water at 40 to 45°, and run a cycle for about an hour to an hour and a half. Works great on tools, Rusty ones that look like hell, and I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well on parts. So I'm curious if you've ever considered using a setup like that. Because like I said all you're using is water and vinegar with a ultrasonic cleaner.
Hi man, loved your videos. Just wondering if I can apply as your editor so you'll reduce your scope of work and to enhance your videos to make it more interesting! Let me know what you think!
Ahahah, Mr. CT, the best thought I've heard anywhere... "and there is when the holliday food comes handy, to make it rest on your belly"... 🤣 You're very optimistic, isn't it? Damn, it's such a joy to watch your adventures.. 😁 I'm actually surprised a bit, I've never seen ball bearings on cars, but since it's so old, probably it was the standard at the beginnning. At my place the most particular cars were the Citroens, actually everything about those was particular, innovative and well... different. 😐 The early models were even built in imperialni measurements.. I'm not suree exactly why. Anyway, your "mean machine" looks better every time. This bug is I think the one you made most progress with, it's a pleasure to see it come together. You should coat exposed parts immeditely after cleaning with some oil, just to prevent corrosion, even if you have to clean it one more time. Rust returns very fast. Also keep an eye on welded body parts, coat everything with at least some protective base immediately after welding.. Rust is also like cancer, whenever you don't get rid of it completely, it returns. Diligence will make you thrive! 😉 Most of the time some small details will screw your work. Cheers, keep going! 😏
Take a skim off of the old bearing races with a grinder, makes a perfect installation tool.
I will not lie, I thought you were crazy to bring this one home. It was in worse shape then even Rusty, and missing so many things. You have stayed working on it for awhile and it is coming together nicely. I think I would find a engine or build the old one, so I would not have to tear out the engine again. It's going to live and run again, nice job!
Thanks Richard!
There was no engine in it when he got it if I remember correctly, so rebuilding the original isn't an option.
Love seeing progress. This is definitely evidence of being content with life. Enjoy bringing the bug back to life
I've seen folks install bearings by using a socket to drive them in making installation easier and doesn't damage bearings. Nice to see 65 beetle coming along 😀
WOW CT, back on the bug, I like it.
Thanks Earl! =)
Super restoration of such a car, done slowly in peace, with a sense of responsibility, I can't wait for the truck too, let's see how it turns out :), good luck in the future, I'm following you with love
Thank you! =)
I am from germany and my english isnt the best but I can watch your videos for days.
Use the old race to drive in the new one, saves damaging the edges.
Good restoration I am viewing the progress and I admirer the good work your doing Mario from Gibraltar Europe
Thanks Mario! =)
Using the belly as a "third hand" is quite common and sometimes very useful 😂
HAHA! =)
Don't forget using your chest or shoulder as a transmission lift. Kinda hurts but it works fine!
CT you really need a race tool. those carbon steel races dont burr very easy but they can. If you use a race tool it will insure you get them all the way down evenly without damage. Harbor freight has one and they are really cheap. great for seals too.
The rubber cuff on the left axle is twisted. Please fix it.
Little more and she will be a driver!
Thanks Mike! =)
I'm happy to see you again on this project.
I eagerly await the end. And in the end I wouldn't sell it to anyone. It will be a gem.
Happy that you went back to this project!
BOOT SEAM should be 90 Degrees to the front or back. We usually do the front. but if later it tears you can flip it over and put silicone on the cracks.
Good to know. Thanks Mike !
Yes. No flex in the seam.
If you need a cab for swamp dragon their all over Arkansas
Great job; don’t forget some grease where the brake shoes contact the backing plate. Also you’re missing the front rubber bump stops on the beam. The seals on the front drums were missing as well as others have told you. Finally don’t forget the ground strap from the transaxle to the chassis. I know it’s a lot of little details that can get overlooked.
your doing a good job //as you come a long way //stay at it //as I done this work over 50 years .
Thanks buddy! =)
Excellent work CT
Thanks buddy!
Great work your doing with your projects, I feel your audience have to realize that parts take time to get to you and they do cost money. Yes its frustrating waiting but imagine being CT waiting for them too. He does his best to give us a video when time , parts and money allow it to happen.
I'm glad to see the bug back in progress CT. Your patience and craftsmanship speak for itself. Go bud!
Fantastic video, once again! I appreciate your introspective approach and the way you walk us through your process. Also appreciate your humble approach. Very engaging. Look forward to the next one!
I appreciate that! Thanks Adam! =)
Are there any wheel seals on the drums?
Hey John, good catch. I forgot the seals....=)
I’ve been watching you, since the day you bought the bug. Dam bro! You’ve done a lot of work to this car.
Glad to see this progress. Thanks for the update.
Wow that chassis is looking like factory new! Well done CT!👌😎🥰
Thanks man! 👍
Wheels seals? Also how does it bleed with the bleeder valve beside the hose? Bleeder should be on top
Did you grease the contact surfaces on the back plate...? don't think you did.
No, I will do that this week. Thanks for catching that. =)
At 16:34. You’ve got rust in the bearing grease. Not good.
Grease seals??? They need to be installed just after the inner bearing. Yep. that spring tool is the right one for the job! Either that one is identical to the one I bought in the late sixties, or it is the one I sent you a good little while ago, last time you were struggling with the brake hold down springs.
@CT, did you ever check if the transmission is good on the Beetle?
I don't think so. He got the car without an engine and I don't think he ever put one in for testing.
CT my recommendation is to weld up as much as you can on the Bug; then go on to the GIA and weld all the parts on to it; then go on to RUSTY and weld all the parts on to it; then the 914; etc. I watch another channel besides Bad Chad. It is called Halfass Kustomes. This guy knows how to fix everything on a vehicle. He makes the pieces he needs from scratch. He only goes to buy the things he absolutely has to. You may learn alot from him as well. He and Chad might be able to help you understand how to fix the back window of the Bug.
Hey CT good to see you back, just a suggestion i would turn the rubber boots so that the nuts and bolts could be undone from underneath the car for futre access if you need to chnge them. good luck keep em coming.
Screw heads facing the floor and seam pointed to rear. VW owners man.
Quick question don't they have a seal on the back bearing to stop grease getting over brake shoes
Yes, I forgot to install them . I will this week. Thank you! =)
Please consider painting your wheels. Also do not over tighten your wheel bearings. That can cause rapid bearing wear. Snug is plenty. Your doing fantastic, I love watching your progress !
Back on the VW ! super !
Grease seals?on the back of the drums
Does your brake drums not have an inner seal that installs after you put the large bearing in to seal in the grease?
Ummm, where are the grease seals? For the drums that is.
Hey Ed, I forgot to install them. I will do that this week. Thanks man! =)
excellent job brother.
All good my man. Looks like alt of work. But thats why we do it. Just dont stop.
Nice job on the VW
nice class today,MAESTRO, 👍
Hang on a minute mate. Did you just start a video without saying "What's up guys, it's CT in the garage"? This is a serious lapse my friend! 😅
Great to see you back on the bug again, I've been waiting so long! If I may offer a little advice - when pushing in the wheel bearing, use a big fat socket on it, like maybe the 50mm one you use to take the back wheel off, then a bit of wood or similar, and hit that with a big hammer. That way is a lot safer than how you just did it. Also, for the axle gaiters, remember you're going to have to take them off to replace them at some point, with the car body on - so factor that in when you position them finally. You need the little nuts and bolts to be accessible.
It's all a learning curve mate, and I'm learning 10x more than I'm telling you. Like you said - "we're getting there".
Keep up the great work. Julian. 👍
Your standard of work has come a long way from when I first started watching many years ago. Seen my fav vehicle in the background, Rusty. When are we going to do more work on it? 🇦🇺👍👍
Oh forgot to mention. I was getting a little worried cuz I hadn’t seen a CT video for awhile. Keeping up with putting out videos is hard. I don’t think I have posted any update videos on my bus. I gotta get to editing what I have. Hopefully soon.
I enjoy all your projects but this bug is my number one by far
Thanks Paul!
Nice it's looking good way to go ct keep up the good work
I find the easiest way to install bearing races is to indeed use the old ones but first grind some off the outside face edge of the old race to prevent it jamming back in the hub. Works really well, add them to the special tools draw in the box ;-)
Great video. I'm glad you posted. Keep them coming, thanks
Big critic of these types of videos, but this chap did a dandy job. Well done.
Thank you! =)
CT, you have why too many ads running though your video.
There you go CT, gettin’ er done. Putting all the haters to rest. The rolling chassis looking good and ready for the body. Your basically done. Jaaa jk. A long way to go but at least you are on the reassembly stage. I kinda forgot what stage you were on. I’m still battling the carbs on my bud but made a little progress this weekend.
Thanks man! Keep it up! =)
do they have hub seals on those hubs
No inner bearing seals?
Glad u got back to the bug,j gotta catch up on your videos
Great, as always.
I was waiting for the next VW bug video, it is very relaxing to watch, thanks.
great, support !
Thanks Simon! =)
Great job..definitely on the right track 👍
Muy bueno pense que lo habias abandonado excelente
That was great CT, hey I still have my brake drum tool that looks more like a channel lock wrench. I can't post pictures here but it not only pushed the spring twist caps on but it also installed the long springs top and bottom. I bought it when I had my VW collection. wish I had known about the 200ft center hub removal tool back then. I used a 6ft pipe. haha
Hi I have been a subscriber of your channel for a long time now still having a hard time getting your latest videos please advise how can we get a chronological review thanks by the way great videos thanks
Hey George, you can see them in order on the playlist page. Here is a link:
😎😎😎www.youtube.com/@CTmoog/playlists
Good job 😃😃😄👏👏👏👍👍👍cool
Thank you so much 😀
The clutch rubber grommet needs to go all the way in the thing needs one lip showing ... Great job btw
Next time used a wood block to hit the race inside of the drum .you can damage it easy the way you installed
A wood block is useless, it´s too soft. Maybe it´s time to buy a hydraulic press.
A piece of brass or copper pipe.
@@GettingNervous My first restoration, but I used a cue ball that came with my 64 bug when I bought it.
A brass drift is the tool
Mr ct. Was wondering what are your plans for this bug when you are done restoring it
I've seen some use a socket to tap the braces in evenly. FYI.
Always use a brass punch to install bearing races, if you don't press them in. Or risk damaging the bearing and destroying the bearings in short order. Preload the bearings after greasing by tightening the bolt until you can just move the washer with a screwdriver prying against it, nothing more.... and don't forget to tighten the locking bolt.
on the boot use sealer on open edges// then screw into palce as sealer comes out// you have a good seal for years to come of driving
19:00 No axle seal?
Excelente maestro, eso está quedando de maravilla, ya deseo ver el próximo capitulo. Bendiciones de lo alto.
Yey another beetle video 👏👏👏
Thank you! =)
Great stuff as usual my man! This one’s looking pretty sharp! I’m intrigued to see how you sort out that horrendous rust on the outer skin in the rear. I know you’ve done the inside for the most part, but that outer skin was pretty punky as Mustie1 puts it.
The smooth shank of the shock bolt goes through the shock and the threaded end out the other side to bolt to the mount
That way the threads won't chew up the bushing on the shock.
turn the drums just clean up// and keep them true round .
When can we see a update on the 74 F250?
keep it up!
Thank you! =)
Parabéns amigo, adoro o seu trabalho
i have a beetle that has been sitting in a field for 21 years what should i do to make it start?
Been sitting here watching this video series for the last few days, but just out of curiosity, do you have a ultrasonic cleaner! I just suggest it because if you have certain parts, like the smaller and medium sized pieces, you can just give them a water and vinegar bath, and I should knock 99% of all the gunk off the piece make it look almost new, with very little chance of doing any damage to the piece itself. Technically you can just put it on the wheel and buff it out, but with an ultrasonic cleaner it's a lot gentler, and you're less likely to nail it in the process. You can use either one of the larger tanks that they sell, which isn't really that expensive, or he's one of the Bowie type cleaners where you just drop it in the tank and let it dangle and float on the top. Normally I keep the water at 40 to 45°, and run a cycle for about an hour to an hour and a half. Works great on tools, Rusty ones that look like hell, and I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well on parts. So I'm curious if you've ever considered using a setup like that. Because like I said all you're using is water and vinegar with a ultrasonic cleaner.
Like the old comercial says.....BOSH it's good
New subscribed from Somalia
I grind off the outer part of the old outer race so it wont hang up using it as a new race installer.
Good idea!
@@CTmoog My fingers also love me for this. Destroyed 3 brand new races at age of 18 trying to tap them in with punch 30 years ago
Hi man, loved your videos. Just wondering if I can apply as your editor so you'll reduce your scope of work and to enhance your videos to make it more interesting! Let me know what you think!
Bom dia que bom ver fusca de volta não vejo hora ver ele pronto
Hey CTwhat happened to your valour blaster you used on rusty
Que bien 👍 siempre muy meticuloso.
Дякую, дуже люблю ваш канал. Прекрасна робота, усе дуже толково і без зайвої метушні. Саме задоволення від роботи. Дякую!
Saludos de Monterrey
CT, what size tires are you running with the dropped spindles?
No seals back of the front inner bearings.
Here we go again jumping back and forth on a different project while accomplishing nothing. Great entertainment!
Si los metes en un congelador y calientas el tambor juegas con las dilataciones y cuesta mucho menos !!!
lookin good
Ahahah, Mr. CT, the best thought I've heard anywhere... "and there is when the holliday food comes handy, to make it rest on your belly"... 🤣 You're very optimistic, isn't it? Damn, it's such a joy to watch your adventures.. 😁 I'm actually surprised a bit, I've never seen ball bearings on cars, but since it's so old, probably it was the standard at the beginnning. At my place the most particular cars were the Citroens, actually everything about those was particular, innovative and well... different. 😐 The early models were even built in imperialni measurements.. I'm not suree exactly why. Anyway, your "mean machine" looks better every time. This bug is I think the one you made most progress with, it's a pleasure to see it come together. You should coat exposed parts immeditely after cleaning with some oil, just to prevent corrosion, even if you have to clean it one more time. Rust returns very fast. Also keep an eye on welded body parts, coat everything with at least some protective base immediately after welding.. Rust is also like cancer, whenever you don't get rid of it completely, it returns. Diligence will make you thrive! 😉 Most of the time some small details will screw your work. Cheers, keep going! 😏
The axle bellow split joint should be horisontally facing rear.
At 3:22 Don't hit your "little brother" ☺️☺️☺️🤭. Sorry for my humor. Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk in Finland.
What size tires on the rear?