For cars with some age-related bolt rust that is welding things together a useful hint for removing the rear motor mount - access the bushing nut from the drivers side using a few extensions and universal joint or better yet, a 14mm universal joint socket. On the head of the bolt, put a closed end wrench from the motor side and position so that the open end is pointing toward the exhaust manifold so that it does not hit tubing as you forcibly loosen the fastener. Once the nut is off, I had to actually drop the subframe rather than raise the motor using a floor jack, so that I could free the pinching of the motor mount bolt and allow it to come out. The subframe will drop as you loosen the 4 main bolts. If this is the issue, drop the subframe and then use the floor jack to find the no pinch sweet spot. I noticed that you rotated the rack by turning the steering rack shaft while the rack was out of the car. Is there any info on how to re-center the rack and steering wheel before reinstalling it? You marked the steering shaft and that was while the wheels were centered. I have a different situation, so I could only guess the wheels were pointing strait ahead. I marked the shaft, but when I removed the rack, I could see that based on the passenger boot being extended and the driver not, I now have to figure out where center of the rack and steering wheel is not a full rotation off. I fear this could damage the clock-spring or a sensor given we have controls in the steering wheel. So the question is if anyone knows how to re-center both the rack and steering wheel before reconnecting.
This was definitely a mistake on my part. I did end up damaging the steering angle sensor because of this. Everything else went smooth with reinstallation but I was throwing an ASC and 4WD code. It still drove fine. Upon further inspection with a scanner I did install the steering shaft 1 full turn out of spec which while driving I damaged the steering angle sensor. Replaced the sensor and turned the shaft back a full turn and it was good. I was pissed at myself believe me
No markings. Steering rack only goes in one way. By centering I assume you’re referring to the tie rods. When I unthreaded the outer tie rods to put new ones on you just count the threads. This puts the wheels at around the same position as before. You’ll still need an alignment to get it perfect.
To get balljoints to release you need to hit the SIDE of where the balljoint is connected (not the top of balljoint nut) and most importantly you need to use a real mans hammer.... no rubber mallet nonsense... a 4Lb club steel NFA hammer
I watch other videos and felt like a real wuss that I couldn’t pop it loose. Felt like something was definitely gonna break. Just gotta know what you’re doing 😉
I thought about that as well but if that was the issue it should happen more frequently I would think. The fact that the car can drive perfectly and make as many turns to one side but then does it the moment I turn the opposite direction is really making me lean toward a bearing issue. I’ll still put it on my list of things to look at. Thanks!
In depth diagnostics on this subject with multiple cars all with manuals. The mount might look okay, but just remove it and look. Im looking for my old videos and pictures on this issue
If I had endless money I would. I hear they make great products but even their bump steer correction kit is outrageously priced and it’s just a couple of tie rod ends and ball joints. This car will not be used for racing so I’m gonna stick with oem as much as can to save $$$.
Авто/Мото
Amazing video
@@jamaliskandre I appreciate it!
Great explaining man
@@bobistoilov653 appreciate it!
For cars with some age-related bolt rust that is welding things together a useful hint for removing the rear motor mount - access the bushing nut from the drivers side using a few extensions and universal joint or better yet, a 14mm universal joint socket. On the head of the bolt, put a closed end wrench from the motor side and position so that the open end is pointing toward the exhaust manifold so that it does not hit tubing as you forcibly loosen the fastener. Once the nut is off, I had to actually drop the subframe rather than raise the motor using a floor jack, so that I could free the pinching of the motor mount bolt and allow it to come out. The subframe will drop as you loosen the 4 main bolts. If this is the issue, drop the subframe and then use the floor jack to find the no pinch sweet spot.
I noticed that you rotated the rack by turning the steering rack shaft while the rack was out of the car. Is there any info on how to re-center the rack and steering wheel before reinstalling it? You marked the steering shaft and that was while the wheels were centered. I have a different situation, so I could only guess the wheels were pointing strait ahead. I marked the shaft, but when I removed the rack, I could see that based on the passenger boot being extended and the driver not, I now have to figure out where center of the rack and steering wheel is not a full rotation off. I fear this could damage the clock-spring or a sensor given we have controls in the steering wheel. So the question is if anyone knows how to re-center both the rack and steering wheel before reconnecting.
This was definitely a mistake on my part. I did end up damaging the steering angle sensor because of this. Everything else went smooth with reinstallation but I was throwing an ASC and 4WD code. It still drove fine. Upon further inspection with a scanner I did install the steering shaft 1 full turn out of spec which while driving I damaged the steering angle sensor. Replaced the sensor and turned the shaft back a full turn and it was good. I was pissed at myself believe me
Nice! No rust at all🫣😳🤯
can you show us how to center the steering rack since its out. is there like a marking or notch or something that indicates that your rack is centered
No markings. Steering rack only goes in one way. By centering I assume you’re referring to the tie rods. When I unthreaded the outer tie rods to put new ones on you just count the threads. This puts the wheels at around the same position as before. You’ll still need an alignment to get it perfect.
To get balljoints to release you need to hit the SIDE of where the balljoint is connected (not the top of balljoint nut) and most importantly you need to use a real mans hammer.... no rubber mallet nonsense... a 4Lb club steel NFA hammer
I watch other videos and felt like a real wuss that I couldn’t pop it loose. Felt like something was definitely gonna break. Just gotta know what you’re doing 😉
It could be the steerring pump??
I thought about that as well but if that was the issue it should happen more frequently I would think. The fact that the car can drive perfectly and make as many turns to one side but then does it the moment I turn the opposite direction is really making me lean toward a bearing issue. I’ll still put it on my list of things to look at. Thanks!
Top right motor mount. Engine side. 🤌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
In depth diagnostics on this subject with multiple cars all with manuals. The mount might look okay, but just remove it and look. Im looking for my old videos and pictures on this issue
Go whiteline!!!
If I had endless money I would. I hear they make great products but even their bump steer correction kit is outrageously priced and it’s just a couple of tie rod ends and ball joints. This car will not be used for racing so I’m gonna stick with oem as much as can to save $$$.
In my experience, the OEM tie rods seem to last longer than the whiteline@@JordanMoree