We've got tool holders on some of our printers at work, problem is when you are printing on the height limits and the head hits the end of the tools.. Someone smarter than me should print something that sits in the upright rail but is angled to give you access to all of the tools...
Thank you. Your 0.6mm nozzle profile is awesome. I have 1 Ender 3 S1 with a 0.6 and my other 1 with a 04 profile. Great finishes. Thank you for another video that is useful and on a subject that I find useful. I had a look at hou it is mounted, and I will edit it so it attaches to the top V-slot rail with some T-Nuts, because my Ender 3 S1's and CR-10s does not have the open V-slots facing forward. Small mod, and easy to do in tinkercad.
I downloaded your profiles for cura 5 and although the overall quality of the print is much better than my custom profile, I get very slight warping on the first layers while my profile doesn't. I thought I should ask if you know what setting might be causing that or if anyone else encountered something similar.
I switched to 0.6 mm a long time ago. I only do functional prints and there's almost nothing it can't do. I never do little figurines or anything purely artistic, so I never need fine detail.
I bought a second Ender 5 Plus about 18 months ago and the Allen keys that came with it were very poor quality, my previous Creality machines Ender 2 CR-10 Ender 3 all came with Allen keys that had the multi-angle rounded heads on them and although they were cheap they were at least functional, I printed T handles for them but didnt bother with a holder to go on the printer, I made one to go on my peg board.
wouldn't it be easier to install the mount facing the rear of the maschine (and probably extending the holes further out, so they won't hit the roller wheels)? Should be plenty accessible
Love your videos and the help you offer, question, I am starting to collect quit a bit of scrap PLA, I would like to recycle it but am looking for a company that gives you like store credit for your scraps, or is there a good way to make my own spools of PLA from my scraps?
tnx for the nice video and content. Unfortunately the print comes out quite a bit too big on my printer :| Does the ender3Pro have different profiles? Normal calibration cubes are the right size.
I have an S1 Pro. Relatively new. I've been through all levelling that's possible but the Z distance is always too far away (too small) and needs adjustment every print. It seems as if the print surface is dipped in the centre buts it's virtually new. Help me???
Newbee. I followed your video to install direct drive in my 2 ender 3 pro, and it turns on, nothing but light shows on screen. thought maybe it lost firmware, got it from the marlin site you suggested to sign to, to no avail. any suggestions? Thanks Mike
I noticed that while the Ender 5 was one of the 3 printers shown on the Creality splash page in your video, none of the links in your description were for the Ender 5; they're all for the Ender 3. And you're alone in this. The Ender 5 doesn't seem to get much love on the Internet. Is there a reason for this? I know it's more expensive, but I like the Core X-Y design. Am I alone in this? Or is the Creality implementation of it sub-standard in some way? Please solve this mystery for me. Thanks.
@R Dyer Just for clarification, the Ender-5/Ender-5 Pro/Ender-5 S1 are NOT CoreXY. They are considered Cartesian machines because the X-axis motor has to move along the Y-Axis carriage. A true CoreXY doesn't do that. Both the X and Y motors remain stationary. There is a cool Mod called the Mercury One modification you can make to your Ender-5 to make it a true CoreXY machine.
Darn it CHEP, your going to force me to have get a 0.6 nozzle aren't you. 😁 great content as usual. How much time was saved with 0.6 than if a 0.4 nozzle had been used?
@@FilamentFriday Yes. It is all about how you use it. For prints I am going to have to put filler on anyway, why print at 0.12mm layer height, when you can punch it out at 0.4mm layer height on a 0.6mm nozzle? I was so surprised at the quality at that layer height. Vase modes/spiral contour with a 0.9 line with gives strong vase prints. It is an awesome toy to play with. I print at 220 to handle the higher flow rates needed.
You can get almost the same results pushing 0.6mm lines/extrusion widths through a .4 nozzle and still get really good quality, even better than a 0.6mm nozzle actually because the extrusions can go all the way down to 0.34mm where a 0.6mm nozzle will only go down to 0.51mm
Had two Ender 5 for 2 years. Creality hasnt moved on since then. Having a Bambulab X1 now and am completely blown away by the performance of that machine. Creality will be pushed out of the market due to their lack of innovation.
Creality is releasing more details in a few days about their new "K1" printer. It looks like it's gonna be a clone of the X1C from what is known so far.
I ordered a 0.6 nozzle, looking forward to trying it out with your slicer settings.
We've got tool holders on some of our printers at work, problem is when you are printing on the height limits and the head hits the end of the tools..
Someone smarter than me should print something that sits in the upright rail but is angled to give you access to all of the tools...
Thank you. Your 0.6mm nozzle profile is awesome. I have 1 Ender 3 S1 with a 0.6 and my other 1 with a 04 profile. Great finishes.
Thank you for another video that is useful and on a subject that I find useful.
I had a look at hou it is mounted, and I will edit it so it attaches to the top V-slot rail with some T-Nuts, because my Ender 3 S1's and CR-10s does not have the open V-slots facing forward. Small mod, and easy to do in tinkercad.
It's not just the walls that take more time, it's more retractions due to more layers, more travels and shorter area to accelerate to speed.
Brilliant, Chuck! Thanks a bunch for the tip! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You're awesome Chep! Thank you for your content, sir!!!
Won’t that hit the gantry when it goes up?
Have you tried putting the the model diagonally on to bed (45deg) it moves x and y at the same time reducing long x or y movements
I downloaded your profiles for cura 5 and although the overall quality of the print is much better than my custom profile, I get very slight warping on the first layers while my profile doesn't. I thought I should ask if you know what setting might be causing that or if anyone else encountered something similar.
I switched to 0.6 mm a long time ago. I only do functional prints and there's almost nothing it can't do. I never do little figurines or anything purely artistic, so I never need fine detail.
Thanks CHEP.
I'm waiting on a .6 PETG profile....please and thank you
I bought a second Ender 5 Plus about 18 months ago and the Allen keys that came with it were very poor quality, my previous Creality machines Ender 2 CR-10 Ender 3 all came with Allen keys that had the multi-angle rounded heads on them and although they were cheap they were at least functional, I printed T handles for them but didnt bother with a holder to go on the printer, I made one to go on my peg board.
wouldn't it be easier to install the mount facing the rear of the maschine (and probably extending the holes further out, so they won't hit the roller wheels)? Should be plenty accessible
Good point.
If you reverse it and hang it on the back side, then there will not be any problems even with big prints. Free tip. 😉
Yeah. It’s been mentioned several times in comments.
Love your videos!!
Love your videos and the help you offer, question, I am starting to collect quit a bit of scrap PLA, I would like to recycle it but am looking for a company that gives you like store credit for your scraps, or is there a good way to make my own spools of PLA from my scraps?
Can you make 0.8 and 1 mm nozzle settings
tnx for the nice video and content.
Unfortunately the print comes out quite a bit too big on my printer :| Does the ender3Pro have different profiles?
Normal calibration cubes are the right size.
are you going to tune your PrusaSlicer profiles with your latest and greatest ?
I am always getting elongated holes in vertical direction. In xy they come out perfect, any idea?
Flip the holder to the back and you won’t have to remove it for larger prints
I have an S1 Pro. Relatively new. I've been through all levelling that's possible but the Z distance is always too far away (too small) and needs adjustment every print. It seems as if the print surface is dipped in the centre buts it's virtually new. Help me???
Newbee. I followed your video to install direct drive in my 2 ender 3 pro, and it turns on, nothing but light shows on screen. thought maybe it lost firmware, got it from the marlin site you suggested to sign to, to no avail. any suggestions? Thanks Mike
This is a scammer channel! The real Chep uses red filament! 😜
First, Linus for hacked, now THIS?!?
it's his evil twin
I noticed that while the Ender 5 was one of the 3 printers shown on the Creality splash page in your video, none of the links in your description were for the Ender 5; they're all for the Ender 3. And you're alone in this. The Ender 5 doesn't seem to get much love on the Internet. Is there a reason for this? I know it's more expensive, but I like the Core X-Y design. Am I alone in this? Or is the Creality implementation of it sub-standard in some way? Please solve this mystery for me. Thanks.
I reviewed the Ender 5 S1 jus a few videos ago. ruclips.net/video/D9uhzjg2Azw/видео.html
@R Dyer Just for clarification, the Ender-5/Ender-5 Pro/Ender-5 S1 are NOT CoreXY. They are considered Cartesian machines because the X-axis motor has to move along the Y-Axis carriage.
A true CoreXY doesn't do that. Both the X and Y motors remain stationary.
There is a cool Mod called the Mercury One modification you can make to your Ender-5 to make it a true CoreXY machine.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for letting me know. I will definitely check it out!
@@KensCounselingCouch I appreciate the clarification. I'll look closer at the design.
Darn it CHEP, your going to force me to have get a 0.6 nozzle aren't you. 😁 great content as usual. How much time was saved with 0.6 than if a 0.4 nozzle had been used?
My Extra Fast profiles could match it time wise. But the point was 0.6 doesn’t sacrifice detail on something like this.
@@FilamentFriday Yes. It is all about how you use it. For prints I am going to have to put filler on anyway, why print at 0.12mm layer height, when you can punch it out at 0.4mm layer height on a 0.6mm nozzle? I was so surprised at the quality at that layer height. Vase modes/spiral contour with a 0.9 line with gives strong vase prints. It is an awesome toy to play with. I print at 220 to handle the higher flow rates needed.
You can get almost the same results pushing 0.6mm lines/extrusion widths through a .4 nozzle and still get really good quality, even better than a 0.6mm nozzle actually because the extrusions can go all the way down to 0.34mm where a 0.6mm nozzle will only go down to 0.51mm
I would just put it back because of the bigger print
that is every cook chep
👍🏻👍🏻
Had two Ender 5 for 2 years. Creality hasnt moved on since then. Having a Bambulab X1 now and am completely blown away by the performance of that machine. Creality will be pushed out of the market due to their lack of innovation.
Creality is releasing more details in a few days about their new "K1" printer. It looks like it's gonna be a clone of the X1C from what is known so far.
Nope
allen wrench's that come with printer are garbage, why would I print handles lol
Agreed. I bought a Wera set which are so much better.
Not cheap and I'm never going to use the huge 10mm wrench!
first! Love the vids!
CHEP is a fuckin beast yo
Or just buy modern printer (eg. Anycubic Vyper or something like that) so you won't need allen keys all the time near to printer ;)
You have no idea what? Printing is money down the drain.