Thank you so much for documenting your work on this wonderful work of mechanical art! I have a theory. I wonder if count wheel isn't *supposed* to revolve multiple times. The way the locking arm so exactly skips the drop in the count wheel has me thinking that the gearing from the count wheel to the hoop is such that the hoop goes "out of phase" with the count wheel for one or more rotations. When you were hand powering it, it did strike me (pun intended) as a rather short musical play time. In fact, in the video the count wheel has some marks (they look hand cut, not wear, but I could be wrong) and the locking piece skips 3 marks per locking "attempt". It's hard to think of a reason for doing it this way, rather than putting the count wheel on an arbor further down the train, but if it is supposed to rotate 3 times then maybe there simply wasn't a convenient way to get the desired train gearing in the desired number of wheels and still have a 3:1 somewhere in there. Or, looking at the video again, there simply wasn't room to extend a different arbor amongst the winding arbor, minute wheel/s and former flirt. Looking forward to seeing you rebuild the flirt, if you do decide to! If not, perhaps the "intended" way to remove the music silent arm is to unscrew its stub arbor with the arm still in place. :p All shockingly inelegant compared with its original mechanism. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for your comment. Here is the latest video with a shout out to you and an answer to your questions! ruclips.net/video/h9YYIAbXLnU/видео.html
Thank you Tommy. Your interest in your work is infectious. I'm looking forward to seeing what you end up doing with this clock and how it all turns out. You certainly have a lot of work to do.
Thanks Tommy for such a good demo of careful dismantling of this lovely movement I'm fascinated with the design of the governor flys and the fact that the music fly is adjustable and as a matter of interest the German movement in my grandfather clock has both flys made of aluminium possibly to make starting of the train a little easier. Thanks again Tommy. Jim from AUSTRALIA. ❤😊
That was really interesting Tommy thanks for that. I look forward to your next episode. I noticed in the video that the steel wire had actually started to mark the sides as you had warned might happen!
I think whoever made the clock originally would be happy to know the clock is in safe hands with you, interesting and great detective work Tommy pleasure to watch you work.
Very interesting, I really appreciate the craftsmanship of these movements. I'd love a career change to a clock repairs guy and repair brass movements etc. Great video
I looked up some of the songs listed, and I saw why there are paired hammers, as most of the tunes are quite lively and needed a way to play each note quickly!
Very interesting video. Its fascinating to uncover the history of these clocks and especially find makers and/or repairers marks on them. Its also interesting how it has been modified over its life and why someone would do that rather than just repair it. It makes me wonder if the original design of the striking detents and releases was rather temperamental. Finally I couldn't help noticing the sort of centre punch marks on the front plate around the stub axles. Can you explain what these might have been for?
I'm often asked this and tthe answer is no. I have been specifically asked to on previous jobs, and I did go through a phase of doing it, but I now feel that it is too invasive to mark the object. I often leave a card with the clock with basic details of the work done.
Lovely. The tapped hole where the stub arbor was moved to looks quite the mess as well, not in keeping with the other holes in the plate. Also the punch marks for each, were there matching ones on the stub arbors?
Everything about this movement seems very large - the size and thickness of the plates, the length of the arbors. Will be interesting to see how you reverse engineer the missing flirt and spring. I'm wondering why each bell has two hammers. Your videos are fascinating.
Hi Tommy, I'm working on a clock now, and you can see where the steel cable has marred the strike drum, not sure of the degree of work being done on this clock yet...but do you stick with wire cables when this has already happened, as I suspect it may be heavy wearing aginst perlon or natural gut afterwards? I think it would be a bit too much to address the wear.
I see the reasons for avoiding steel wire would you avoid bronze for similar reasons? I am making a skeleton clock as a hobby and have bought both nylon and bronze line... I thought the bronze would look good but now I am questioning that decision. Any advice would be welcome!
I personally don't like Bronze line. It's not as strong as you might think and doesn't look very nice. It's not going to damage the clock in the same way as steel though so I'm not against it. I use Perloine, natural gut (but only the super high quality stuff), or sometimes on modern clocks I use tracer fishing line. The breaking strain is huge and although it's a steel core it is coated with black nylon. There is also a clear nylon coated steel line available for REALLY big weights.
@@TommyJobson Many Thanks for the advice. I shall investigate the natural gut materials. Many Thanks again for your advice and the videos you are producing!
Just throwing an idea in here. Could the flirt mechanism have been removed as a way of stopping the music from running. The present setup could have been a way of restoring operation without the original parts.
What’s your record for line ends in one clock? I got 14 yes “fourteen” out once, they just keep on coming! Always get line ends out if you don’t they will come out, the day after you deliver it back to the customer…don’t ask me how I know!
@@stevewilliams2498 Hi Steve yes a line end is the knot in side the barrel that holds the line in. When people put new lines in the clock with or without taking the clock apart they just cut the old line & push the knot into the barrel (not good) the ends can find there way out & jam thing’s up, very embarrassing!
Thank you so much for documenting your work on this wonderful work of mechanical art!
I have a theory.
I wonder if count wheel isn't *supposed* to revolve multiple times. The way the locking arm so exactly skips the drop in the count wheel has me thinking that the gearing from the count wheel to the hoop is such that the hoop goes "out of phase" with the count wheel for one or more rotations. When you were hand powering it, it did strike me (pun intended) as a rather short musical play time.
In fact, in the video the count wheel has some marks (they look hand cut, not wear, but I could be wrong) and the locking piece skips 3 marks per locking "attempt". It's hard to think of a reason for doing it this way, rather than putting the count wheel on an arbor further down the train, but if it is supposed to rotate 3 times then maybe there simply wasn't a convenient way to get the desired train gearing in the desired number of wheels and still have a 3:1 somewhere in there. Or, looking at the video again, there simply wasn't room to extend a different arbor amongst the winding arbor, minute wheel/s and former flirt.
Looking forward to seeing you rebuild the flirt, if you do decide to! If not, perhaps the "intended" way to remove the music silent arm is to unscrew its stub arbor with the arm still in place. :p All shockingly inelegant compared with its original mechanism. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for your comment. Here is the latest video with a shout out to you and an answer to your questions! ruclips.net/video/h9YYIAbXLnU/видео.html
Thank you Tommy. Your interest in your work is infectious. I'm looking forward to seeing what you end up doing with this clock and how it all turns out. You certainly have a lot of work to do.
Thanks very much Brian.
Excellent video Tommy. Love the detail you are going into with this one. Learning a lot from it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Tommy for such a good demo of careful dismantling of this lovely movement I'm fascinated with the design of the governor flys and the fact that the music fly is adjustable and as a matter of interest the German movement in my grandfather clock has both flys made of aluminium possibly to make starting of the train a little easier. Thanks again Tommy. Jim from AUSTRALIA. ❤😊
Totally fascinating.
Nice detective work Tommy. Thanks for your patient explanations and work on the videos. I hope to see another soon.
I have a music box that I need to repair. Thanks for posting this. Always learn a bunch
Wow.
Really looking forward to the whole story.
Thanks for sharing with us.
THANK YOU TOMMY, FOUND THAT REALY INTERSTING . REGARDS RICHARD.
That was really interesting Tommy thanks for that. I look forward to your next episode. I noticed in the video that the steel wire had actually started to mark the sides as you had warned might happen!
Loving the restoration process.
Thanks for this video Tommy it was very interesting.
Another great video. Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Hello Tommy,
As always I learnt a lot from this video, thank you... See you in part three...
Take care.
Paul,,
Just found your page and am glad I have. I also just bought the book you recommended by Ronald Rose.
Will be very interesting to see this come back together as original.
I think whoever made the clock originally would be happy to know the clock is in safe hands with you, interesting and great detective work Tommy pleasure to watch you work.
Very interesting, I really appreciate the craftsmanship of these movements. I'd love a career change to a clock repairs guy and repair brass movements etc. Great video
Really pretty clock. Good job!
Fascinating. Thanks for sharing
I looked up some of the songs listed, and I saw why there are paired hammers, as most of the tunes are quite lively and needed a way to play each note quickly!
Very interesting video. Its fascinating to uncover the history of these clocks and especially find makers and/or repairers marks on them. Its also interesting how it has been modified over its life and why someone would do that rather than just repair it. It makes me wonder if the original design of the striking detents and releases was rather temperamental. Finally I couldn't help noticing the sort of centre punch marks on the front plate around the stub axles. Can you explain what these might have been for?
I'll mention the punch marks in the next video. A few have asked baout them.
Will you also be adding your repair mark to the inside of the clock?
I'm often asked this and tthe answer is no. I have been specifically asked to on previous jobs, and I did go through a phase of doing it, but I now feel that it is too invasive to mark the object. I often leave a card with the clock with basic details of the work done.
Ver interesting, indeed. It's hard to imagine why someone would go to all the trouble of reinventing that mechanism.
Lovely. The tapped hole where the stub arbor was moved to looks quite the mess as well, not in keeping with the other holes in the plate. Also the punch marks for each, were there matching ones on the stub arbors?
Everything about this movement seems very large - the size and thickness of the plates, the length of the arbors. Will be interesting to see how you reverse engineer the missing flirt and spring. I'm wondering why each bell has two hammers. Your videos are fascinating.
Two hammers per note/bell enables fast music as it can play notes in quick succession, quavers and semi quavers for example.
Hi Tommy, I'm working on a clock now, and you can see where the steel cable has marred the strike drum, not sure of the degree of work being done on this clock yet...but do you stick with wire cables when this has already happened, as I suspect it may be heavy wearing aginst perlon or natural gut afterwards? I think it would be a bit too much to address the wear.
I see that at some stage most of the stub pins had the dents of ‘punching up’ to tighten the threads.
I see the reasons for avoiding steel wire would you avoid bronze for similar reasons? I am making a skeleton clock as a hobby and have bought both nylon and bronze line... I thought the bronze would look good but now I am questioning that decision. Any advice would be welcome!
I personally don't like Bronze line. It's not as strong as you might think and doesn't look very nice. It's not going to damage the clock in the same way as steel though so I'm not against it. I use Perloine, natural gut (but only the super high quality stuff), or sometimes on modern clocks I use tracer fishing line. The breaking strain is huge and although it's a steel core it is coated with black nylon. There is also a clear nylon coated steel line available for REALLY big weights.
@@TommyJobson Many Thanks for the advice. I shall investigate the natural gut materials. Many Thanks again for your advice and the videos you are producing!
Somewhere the original plans of the Mechanism is sitting at the bottom of a pile of paperwork in some box in some office.
I doubt it. I shouldn't think a clock like this ever had a set of plans drawn up as we know them.
Just throwing an idea in here. Could the flirt mechanism have been removed as a way of stopping the music from running. The present setup could have been a way of restoring operation without the original parts.
What’s your record for line ends in one clock? I got 14 yes “fourteen” out once, they just keep on coming! Always get line ends out if you don’t they will come out, the day after you deliver it back to the customer…don’t ask me how I know!
What is a line end ?
Forgive my ignorance but you got to ask to learn.
@@stevewilliams2498 Hi Steve yes a line end is the knot in side the barrel that holds the line in. When people put new lines in the clock with or without taking the clock apart they just cut the old line & push the knot into the barrel (not good) the ends can find there way out & jam thing’s up, very embarrassing!
You need to be very cleaver to put it together again, I will get stuck somewhere half.
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