Very nicely done. I feel like someone who has been furniture shopping/ kicking tires for weeks and with your video finally found exactly what I need and want. Great comment on the fresh air supply as some HVAC guys think it is only to decrease stuffy air in a home and are unaware it decreases cross drafting on cold air from leaks if your returns are deficient. (speaking of myself lol)
Very good presentation, I had no idea people living in cold areas have to go through so much efforts to warm up their homes until I watched this. . I am living at the equator.
Thank you very much for such a comprehensive video. I'm dyslexic so find written instructions difficult but I was with you through every part of the construction. I will be building one of these very soon
Not sure why the algorithm brought these two videos up after so long but that's okay. The first one reminded me of a fireplace in my parent's home that I minded growing up. Forgive me if I get the terms wrong after all these decades but it heats the water for the house and radiators. Big copper water tank in a closet. The fireplace had a back burner that I would stuff full of sawdust and then just a regular fire in the front. Boy could I get that thing roaring. Sometimes I'd have to go run the hot water as the boiler would start making noises. lol. We cut reject timber from a saw mill. Taking home a huge trailer load at a time. That's where got the sawdust. We also got big trailers of off-cuts from the local kitchen furniture factory. Lots of laminated plywood to chop up. Fun! And finally we also for a few years went up the mountain to stack and dry turf for the fire. Mom went to oil heating when I went off to college. lol.
Been working on a rocket stove for the trailer. Now I am thinking of a mod thanks to your vid. I don't have a ready access of saw dust but tons of dry pine compliments of the pine beetle, lol. So I am thinking of a wood shipper to make chips and burn. We are looking at a Cob renovation on the trailer. You should look into cob houses. I just learned about them last week. People are running their smoke stack through Cob couches and even floors before it runs up the chimney. Lots of great ideas. Let your imaginations soar! Still thinking. Thanks for the video!
Great. I've seen (YT) and know the principle. Your practical 'demo' fits my lack of fantasy - I really could use some warm in the winter though I've little sawdust, so I'll follow your work pattern. Love the rib on the door - its born to fit that way! Thanks for sharing the fun, and the 'eye' I seem to lack. Together we're much stronger.
The farmers in northern Japan use a stove similar to yours. One thing they do that you did not mention is they heat water as well as heating the building. This was told to me by someone that lived on a farm in Horkido, Japan.
Not bad atall. I've seen a few versions of this around, usually using a 20 gal barrel for the sawdust charge.If you use a wooden rod, rather than a pipe for central hole, put a slight taper on it. It makes it easier to remove without disturbing the sawdust. Another possibility is to attach angle irons to the outside barrel, think radiator fins. If you attach sections of angle to the inside of the outer barrel, at an angle, you increase the air turbulence. This will help insure heat transfer and help with burning the combustibles.
Thanks! That's a great video. Good presentation also. I would make a plywood disk with handles to pack the sawdust and maybe buy hinges & latches but other than that you hit a homerun with me with your sawdust stove.
Well done! I am so intrigued by your build that I am...as we speak building one myself. I will make a few changes but basically I like what you have done. Keep up the great work.
Hello.. nice set up.. I have built a few of these and found waste cooking oil mixed in with saw dust before packing will add alot of BTU out put, I built one with a 4 foot diameter cattle trough too
great heater , like how you put the flue lower and the deflector to stop heat going straight up. i will make this for greenhouse/ add Gerrysdiys oil burner for when i have no sawdust and I'm Good. Thanks heaps
Very nice! I can you put a lot of thought into it and it paid off. I'm going to have to make one for my shop, I have plenty of hardwood sawdust from my wood working and part of my sawmill.
What a brilliant idea. If I can find the right parts I'm making one of them. We keep Gerbils and they use sawdust and paper/card bedding which has to go in the bin. I could heat my garage with it instead. It sure beats the gas cylinder stove.
Outstanding video. I'd love to be able to retro fit this idea into an existing wood burning stove in my basement installed by a previous owner. Loading sawdust burn logs (buckets/barrels) seems a whole lot easier than dealing with the whole firewood cycle (cut/spilt/stack/haul/stack/load/burn/ash disposal). I can get tons of sawdust and used cooking oil in the area. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
No problem. My brother has a workshop that makes a lot of sawdust. It would work perfect. I tell him not to waste it because then he could get some heat. He wastes it anyways. We have enough sawdust in the shop now to fill probably 3 of those barrels. lol. How would sawdust work in a wood burner or pot belly stove? I'd imagine it would smolder a lot.
the more I think about it this is a perfect heater for a green house if it can stay hot for 8-10 hrs and vent through a flew that's all you need for overnight heating so I will be building one after the greenhouse is built later this summer thanks
Good job! I think that if you tumble your sawdust with a little waste oil, you'll be able to pack it better. Also, I'd pour less in, before packing. You'll get a tighter pack and longer burn if you pack it in smaller amounts at a time. The oil should ensure a complete burn, even with a tighter pack. Also, now you have ashes to put on top of the next burn. :)
hey my friend. One of the best vids so far! 2 things. 1. how about a restricter plate to adjust the air flow going in to slow down the burn and last longer? 2. How about a donut size steel plate to put on top of the saw dust to keep it compressed as it's burning? Again. Great video!
I do have a damper on the intake. Really no point in continually compressing the sawdust, it would more than likely collapse it into the center and choke off the fire.
I'm amazed at the ideas that you come up with. For those of us who don't have access to saw dust, I'm wondering if you designed an affordable pellet stove.
Enjoyed Muchoes. We live north of the 54th and heat , with wood, 7 months of the year. Wonder if this will work with chainsaw cuttings ( dried) since we also have a greenhouse. Hmmmm?
If you had to build over again would you put your chimney lower to the ground and would you weld a quarter inch thick piece of steel to the inside of the lid to help absorb some of that initial temperature? Think this thing is safe to put in your basement and sleep above it? Looks like a really good way to use up lots of sawdust and eat your house good job!
+Pete Lasko I wouldn't go lower with the chimney as it "may" want to pull air through there and push out the intake. A 1/4" plate on the top and or bricks stacked on the lid to retain heat would be a good idea. It will work like any wood stove.
you should see about making a horizontal flu pipe to make some sort of bench or something to make it hold heat for a little while longer, been looking at all sorts of rocket stove ideas and this one is unique i like it, keep up the good work !
Thanks. The efficiency of this stove makes so the flue temps are extremely low. Unlike a conventional rocket stove or wood stove that looses a ton of heat up the flue that can be captured, this looses virtually nothing. I guess a stone/mortar top could be put on it to retain heat longer.
About to buy a sawmill and was looking for either a way to turn sawdust into logs/chips for heating my shop with but this would work just fine other than the lid that thin would burn out within a month, needs a thick plate welded to it on stands so the thick plate could take the direct flame and spread it to the lid imo. Good idea though thanks.
sixtyfiveford yeah but i dig an know i know how to make one if i ever move to a place where id freeze me nutz, now im a head of the came an can have roasty nuts lol
Since the chimney temps are so low it lends itself very well to a tent or tarp enclosure. It puts out a good amount of heat even if its out in the open and you can feel it standing 4 feet away.
I like what you have done. I can think of some improvements. i.e. Weld a quarter or three eights plate under the lid so the lid doesnt burn out and so the heat is retained for longer. The inner barrel could have a reducing cap so that the flame size is reduced
***** You need the heat to escape so any panels inside the lid would force that heat out of the flue; not good. If anything fins need to be welded to the outside of the lid to dissipate more heat. The lid is sacrificial but can easily be replaced or repaired when it does burn through.
@@sixtyfiveford Actually, the plate could be a good idea, and you could put pipes on the underside of the lid. Elbow joints on both ends of each pipe would go to open nipples that go through the lid so that plenty of heat is still released out the top.
+Leo Waisanen Yes, you can throw chunks of whole logs in and around and fill in the spaces with sawdust. This will increase the burn time by a few hours. You can also saturate the sawdust with old cooking oil or motor oil, this generally doubles the burn time.
very cool (or hot if I were Paris Hilton LOL) My rocket stove doesnt really work that well. Dont know what I did wrong. Oh well I got to many other things to work on. That amazing how long it burns and I bet if you run out of saw dust you can go to cabinet makers and get all you want for free.
just a thought but what if you ran some flexible copper tubing around the burn barrel that ran to an external radiator. if you filled it with water the convection of the hot water should circulate it and you could either have a water heater or a secondary heat source to increase efficiency. im thinking something along the lines of the woodburning hottub designs. This is a great idea i have a woodshop that creates alot of sawdust occasionally i can fill a 55 galon trashcan in a weekend now i might find good use for it!
What tool did you use to cut up the steel drum? I need to cut the bottom off two drums, and don't know if an angle grinder with cut-off wheels would do the trick.
id love to make one,just dont have access to saw dust.the only different thing id do is make a press for the sawdust,i think it would burn longer and would hold more.
Thanks. It will burn anything: wood pellets, leaves, dried plant matter, larger pieces of wood, cutoffs, or hole logs and it burns just as well. My design is virtually 100% efficient and burns all the wood gases along with the wood itself.
This is a fantastic build. Is there any suggestions you could make for a safe build say for a house? I thought of putting it down into a concreted well pit kind of structure and just run underground ducting into the living areas of my house. The extra thermal conduction from the ground would maybe even surpass your 13-15 hour experiment. Would love your input about the alternate method for household use.
It would install the same way you put a wood burning stove into a home. I did design it with a fresh air intake for higher efficiency but that could be left open. By using the flue I can get even longer burn times, but you cut down on the BTU it is putting out.
My dad did this 25 years ago I remember because every night I had to fill the inner barrel we used to burn it from 6 pm and it would still have got ashes next day at 6 we would compress the saw dust real good stomp it down and then water the top of the saw dust or use fresh saw dust from fresh trees being still wet not dried out completely
Great build. A couple questions about it. Where do people get sawdust the quantities needed to run this stove? It's not UL certified so how does the insurance deal with this? This is a major issue with most of the home made rocket stove on youtube. It's a shame too. These things are great and rocket stoves are safer than fireplaces and wood burning stoves.
@@sixtyfiveford True. But what about the insurance and UL. I'd love to have two of these things so one burns and the other is loaded. Once before work and once when I get home. Just keep switching. But if insurance says no, then it's not going in the house. Too bad. It looks great. It's the same thing with regular rocket stoves. I would like the UL and insurance to actually go to a workshop and see how these are designed and built. Then stick around for the demonstration of how they operate. They ares so safe to use with no creosoting in the flue.
Nice work ,you don't mention how you use the butterfly control on the output side, is there any merit in controlling the air going in as in a traditional wood burning stove ? I'm just making one right now and wondered if there were any modifications that you would like to have included that you are saving for the 'mark 2' model. Many thanks, looking forward to a warm workshop.
Thank you very much for such a comprehensive video. I'm dyslexic so find written instructions difficult but I was with you through every part of the construction. I particularly liked the door and its latching mechanism, very clever, elegant and practical. I had seen a video of a finished sawdust burner and had already got hold of a 55 gallon drum and had been designing in my head the various other aspects but now, with your delightfully presented construction I'm not going to make all the inevitable errors I would have done. May I make one suggestion; where you use four legs three might be more practical. A tripod is always more stable than a four point support. Thanks again.
I wonder if adding a heating fan for regular wood burning stoves might not help blow out heat for a large room? Plus, wouldn't adding fins to the top side of the barrel help radiate more heat out to the room?
Yes, adding a fan to circulate the heat in the room would help any fireplace. Adding fins to the top is not necessary as there is virtually no heat escaping up the flue unlike a conventional wood stove.. The entire top of the barrel is a heat sink and is pushing 99% of all the heat generated out into the room as is.
Good video...I have a question about how do you refuel the stove and how cold would it get inside before your could refuel and relite the stove ...thank you
You would do a refuel around 13-14hours. At that point there is only coals. You could just add material in place or remove the burn chamber and insert another full one. If you wanted it to be completely cooled it would take around 16-18hours.
A good Build, not sure how safe it would be in a house, but a garage or a small shed would definitely see some benefits to that especially in a workshop, it drops to -40 to -45 Celsius here in Northern Ontario Putting this in my workshop this year I'll let you know how it turns out. Quick question could you burn twigs in that and wood butts, or just sawdust and fine particles?
Thank you as always for replying to my comment, i have built 2 sheds with pallets mimicking your pallet build, and your propane bottle stove. Your are an excellent role model.
So with this set up you can not reload tell its out fully right. Could you build a 2nd small barrel pre set it up with saw dust then just pull the first out you & drop in the new full one?
It will burn anything: wood pellets, leaves, dried plant matter, larger pieces of wood, cutoffs, oil soaked sawdust or whole logs and it burns just as well. My design is virtually 100% efficient and burns all the wood gases along with the wood itself.
That is just awesome! Anything you can load once and it will burn all night long is a winner in my books.
Thanks.
I always say to myself I'm going to bed but then I watch your vids then I'm up for 2 more hours love them great work
Thanks...
@@sixtyfiveford ๅๆ
Very nicely done. I feel like someone who has been furniture shopping/ kicking tires for weeks and with your video finally found exactly what I need and want. Great comment on the fresh air supply as some HVAC guys think it is only to decrease stuffy air in a home and are unaware it decreases cross drafting on cold air from leaks if your returns are deficient. (speaking of myself lol)
Thanks.
Very good presentation, I had no idea people living in cold areas have to go through so much efforts to warm up their homes until I watched this. .
I am living at the equator.
So well done. To the point, no waffle, just facts. Thank you
Brian McCutcheon Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for such a comprehensive video. I'm dyslexic so find written instructions difficult but I was with you through every part of the construction.
I will be building one of these very soon
Robert Dale Schneider III I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks.
Dyslexia rules KO !
Not sure why the algorithm brought these two videos up after so long but that's okay.
The first one reminded me of a fireplace in my parent's home that I minded growing up.
Forgive me if I get the terms wrong after all these decades but it heats the water for the house and radiators.
Big copper water tank in a closet.
The fireplace had a back burner that I would stuff full of sawdust and then just a regular fire in the front.
Boy could I get that thing roaring. Sometimes I'd have to go run the hot water as the boiler would start making noises. lol.
We cut reject timber from a saw mill. Taking home a huge trailer load at a time. That's where got the sawdust.
We also got big trailers of off-cuts from the local kitchen furniture factory. Lots of laminated plywood to chop up. Fun!
And finally we also for a few years went up the mountain to stack and dry turf for the fire.
Mom went to oil heating when I went off to college. lol.
excellent job and explanatory videos. The best thing is that local hardwares will be happy to let you take their sawdust off their hands.
+Bev Miller Thanks.
That is just wild. You've been very informative on both videos and wow you fully thought outside of the box and this was freaking awesome
Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
Been working on a rocket stove for the trailer. Now I am thinking of a mod thanks to your vid. I don't have a ready access of saw dust but tons of dry pine compliments of the pine beetle, lol. So I am thinking of a wood shipper to make chips and burn.
We are looking at a Cob renovation on the trailer. You should look into cob houses. I just learned about them last week. People are running their smoke stack through Cob couches and even floors before it runs up the chimney. Lots of great ideas. Let your imaginations soar!
Still thinking. Thanks for the video!
A 10 hour burn is pretty impressive. That's a well made stove to draft that well. Good work.
Thanks.
really informative vid, just the heater i need in my boat shed so i can work in the winter here in poland. thank you .
Richard Lorych Thanks. I'm glad the video was informative.
You're a talented fella, thanks for taking the time to make your videos............. you're an inspiration
thornwarbler Thanks. I'm glad you enjoy my videos. -Moe
Great. I've seen (YT) and know the principle. Your practical 'demo' fits my lack of fantasy - I really could use some warm in the winter though I've little sawdust, so I'll follow your work pattern. Love the rib on the door - its born to fit that way!
Thanks for sharing the fun, and the 'eye' I seem to lack. Together we're much stronger.
owpeterj Thanks for watching.
Agreed. Factual, to the point and very informative without musical irritant. Well done pal.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Very impressed with this project !! Like how the pipe stays cool, And no ash to speak of .. Awesome build ..
Thanks.
Excellent, you've put a lot of thought into the design. Thanks for posting.
***** Thanks for watching.
I forgot to mention... really nice stove you built! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
The farmers in northern Japan use a stove similar to yours. One thing they do that you did not mention is they heat water as well as heating the building. This was told to me by someone that lived on a farm in Horkido, Japan.
Not bad atall. I've seen a few versions of this around, usually using a 20 gal barrel for the sawdust charge.If you use a wooden rod, rather than a pipe for central hole, put a slight taper on it. It makes it easier to remove without disturbing the sawdust. Another possibility is to attach angle irons to the outside barrel, think radiator fins. If you attach sections of angle to the inside of the outer barrel, at an angle, you increase the air turbulence. This will help insure heat transfer and help with burning the combustibles.
I like the air turbulence idea.
Great Job! I really enjoyed your presentation. I'm inspired to do a fire brick version!
Again, excellent video. Need you for a neighbor. Hahaha! Keep going, Google, Apple, Dell and others all started in the American garage. All the best.
Thanks.. Anytime, neighbor...
@@sixtyfiveford
Im into similar stuff bro.
Props to you
Thanks! That's a great video. Good presentation also. I would make a plywood disk with handles to pack the sawdust and maybe buy hinges & latches but other than that you hit a homerun with me with your sawdust stove.
Well done! I am so intrigued by your build that I am...as we speak building one myself. I will make a few changes but basically I like what you have done. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Hello.. nice set up.. I have built a few of these and found waste cooking oil mixed in with saw dust before packing will add alot of BTU out put, I built one with a 4 foot diameter cattle trough too
Thanks. A 4' one would be huge.
great heater , like how you put the flue lower and the deflector to stop heat going straight up. i will make this for greenhouse/ add Gerrysdiys oil burner for when i have no sawdust and I'm Good. Thanks heaps
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Brilliant design. Nice description of the project.
Edward Sanford Hey Thanks.
Very nice! I can you put a lot of thought into it and it paid off. I'm going to have to make one for my shop, I have plenty of hardwood sawdust from my wood working and part of my sawmill.
The nice thing about is you can put larger pieces, cutoffs, or hole logs into the sawdust and it burns just as well.
What a brilliant idea. If I can find the right parts I'm making one of them. We keep Gerbils and they use sawdust and paper/card bedding which has to go in the bin. I could heat my garage with it instead. It sure beats the gas cylinder stove.
big ian That's a great use for the old bedding.
Outstanding video. I'd love to be able to retro fit this idea into an existing wood burning stove in my basement installed by a previous owner. Loading sawdust burn logs (buckets/barrels) seems a whole lot easier than dealing with the whole firewood cycle (cut/spilt/stack/haul/stack/load/burn/ash disposal). I can get tons of sawdust and used cooking oil in the area. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
+David R If you have access to sawdust and cooking oil you are set.
Wheres the cooking oil come into or am i missing something
Great job. Thank you for taking time to do the video.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Awesome video and a great idea. We have a few of those barrels laying around at the farm. Even the 30 gallon ones. Might have to try this.
Thanks. Anything can be burned in them not just sawdust. You can put logs, corn stalks or anything else that's combustible.
No problem. My brother has a workshop that makes a lot of sawdust. It would work perfect. I tell him not to waste it because then he could get some heat. He wastes it anyways. We have enough sawdust in the shop now to fill probably 3 of those barrels. lol. How would sawdust work in a wood burner or pot belly stove? I'd imagine it would smolder a lot.
Yeah, unless it is compacted it will just smolder.
Ill have to remember that. Thanks!
I wish I had one of these when I was a kid and cutting and haulin wood!
It's a great use for otherwise junk sawdust.
Great well done not been on your chanell for a wail nice to see your still at it
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Looks like a great hot tub heater! I'm on it.
It would. I've had hot tub plans in my head for quit some time and this would be my go to too heat it.
the more I think about it this is a perfect heater for a green house if it can stay hot for 8-10 hrs and vent through a flew that's all you need for overnight heating so I will be building one after the greenhouse is built later this summer
thanks
It continues to put off good heat even after 13-14 hours from the coals. It would make an ideal greenhouse heater.
Good job! I think that if you tumble your sawdust with a little waste oil, you'll be able to pack it better. Also, I'd pour less in, before packing. You'll get a tighter pack and longer burn if you pack it in smaller amounts at a time. The oil should ensure a complete burn, even with a tighter pack. Also, now you have ashes to put on top of the next burn. :)
I've poured old oil directly over and it significantly increases the burn time.
Nice one, great quality and easy to follow. Gonna make a few now my work shop.
Thanks
wayne The Pikey Thanks.
Very nice video and clear explanation. Thank you for the time and effort you put into the project and sharing.
+Roxane Rinard Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
Time well spent and very clear instructions. Thanks
foundonly Hey thanks.
thanks for reply thought i had it packed hard and i did move pole around like you showed but guess not enough will try again
electricdick You can try cone shaping the hole a little.
You rule man, thank. you for the good job, and very nice explication.
+Luis Correia Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
@@sixtyfiveford I like it too man.👍🏽
hey my friend. One of the best vids so far! 2 things. 1. how about a restricter plate to adjust the air flow going in to slow down the burn and last longer? 2. How about a donut size steel plate to put on top of the saw dust to keep it compressed as it's burning? Again. Great video!
I do have a damper on the intake. Really no point in continually compressing the sawdust, it would more than likely collapse it into the center and choke off the fire.
I'm amazed at the ideas that you come up with. For those of us who don't have access to saw dust, I'm wondering if you designed an affordable pellet stove.
wow thats impressive... I can't believe how well that works, and that was just sawdust! Really makes a regular woodstove look ridiculous lol
Thanks.
Very nice and a great burn time. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
Good job man, you have skills.
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Enjoyed Muchoes. We live north of the 54th and heat , with wood, 7 months of the year. Wonder if this will work with chainsaw cuttings ( dried) since we also have a greenhouse. Hmmmm?
Yes, Chainsaw cuttings work really nice.
I've never seen one of these working, very interesting.
Thanks.
Great videos! Direct and to the point, very nice.
Head Brooks Thanks.
felicitari, zilele astea o sa lucrez la un asa proiect! good job!
lukas ragea Thanks
If you had to build over again would you put your chimney lower to the ground and would you weld a quarter inch thick piece of steel to the inside of the lid to help absorb some of that initial temperature? Think this thing is safe to put in your basement and sleep above it? Looks like a really good way to use up lots of sawdust and eat your house good job!
+Pete Lasko I wouldn't go lower with the chimney as it "may" want to pull air through there and push out the intake. A 1/4" plate on the top and or bricks stacked on the lid to retain heat would be a good idea. It will work like any wood stove.
Good job man. I truly enjoyed this video. It was very informative.
Hey Thanks.
you should see about making a horizontal flu pipe to make some sort of bench or something to make it hold heat for a little while longer, been looking at all sorts of rocket stove ideas and this one is unique i like it, keep up the good work !
Thanks. The efficiency of this stove makes so the flue temps are extremely low. Unlike a conventional rocket stove or wood stove that looses a ton of heat up the flue that can be captured, this looses virtually nothing. I guess a stone/mortar top could be put on it to retain heat longer.
sixtyfiveford okay yeah that would be a better/cheaper way, thanks for the step by step build i might just build a similar one !
Wonder if putting stainless tube in middle with holes could you burn bigger stuff. This was very interesting.
You can stack logs in, logs and sawdust, leaves, or anything else. It will burn anything combustible.
Thank you
You are something else man !!cool little project
Yeah, it was an enjoyable project. Thanks.
My pleasure
About to buy a sawmill and was looking for either a way to turn sawdust into logs/chips for heating my shop with but this would work just fine other than the lid that thin would burn out within a month, needs a thick plate welded to it on stands so the thick plate could take the direct flame and spread it to the lid imo. Good idea though thanks.
Came out great m nice to see it in action
I'm sure you're glad you will never need anything like this where you live.
sixtyfiveford yeah but i dig an know i know how to make one if i ever move to a place where id freeze me nutz, now im a head of the came an can have roasty nuts lol
Nice little stove!
Thanks. I'm glad you think so.
Awesome...I'd like to have one to bring out with us on our ice fishing parties
Since the chimney temps are so low it lends itself very well to a tent or tarp enclosure. It puts out a good amount of heat even if its out in the open and you can feel it standing 4 feet away.
great project and thank you for sharing perry
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching- Moe
Great for my work shop and I can use up my sawdust too.
Very nice stove. And inexpensive to build. How big of an area can it heat well?
Should have no problem with around 1000 square feet. If its a well insulated maybe 1500-2000sq feet.
Awesome! I think if you put a damper on the cold air you could make it burn a lot longer.
Ingenius. Bet you could set a pan on the top and cook something so you don't use all the heat just to warm the room garage etc.
I smell bacon cooking now.
I like what you have done. I can think of some improvements. i.e. Weld a quarter or three eights plate under the lid so the lid doesnt burn out and so the heat is retained for longer. The inner barrel could have a reducing cap so that the flame size is reduced
***** You need the heat to escape so any panels inside the lid would force that heat out of the flue; not good. If anything fins need to be welded to the outside of the lid to dissipate more heat. The lid is sacrificial but can easily be replaced or repaired when it does burn through.
@@sixtyfiveford Actually, the plate could be a good idea, and you could put pipes on the underside of the lid. Elbow joints on both ends of each pipe would go to open nipples that go through the lid so that plenty of heat is still released out the top.
That is great! I wonder how long the fire would last if one included firewood with the sawdust. I would guess much longer.
+Leo Waisanen Yes, you can throw chunks of whole logs in and around and fill in the spaces with sawdust. This will increase the burn time by a few hours. You can also saturate the sawdust with old cooking oil or motor oil, this generally doubles the burn time.
very cool (or hot if I were Paris Hilton LOL) My rocket stove doesnt really work that well. Dont know what I did wrong. Oh well I got to many other things to work on. That amazing how long it burns and I bet if you run out of saw dust you can go to cabinet makers and get all you want for free.
Yeah, cabinet makers have more than they know what to do with.
Do you have a detail drawing of the Saw Dust Heater
great job great video, i wonder how much hot water that could produce
mic363 A TON...
Once again....genius! Oh by the way I think your wife requested the Christmas lights need to be down by Easter :-)
Thanks. By the time Easter rolls around they're just Easter lights, then 4th of July lights, then......... Yeah, waiting for the snow to finish.
just a thought but what if you ran some flexible copper tubing around the burn barrel that ran to an external radiator. if you filled it with water the convection of the hot water should circulate it and you could either have a water heater or a secondary heat source to increase efficiency. im thinking something along the lines of the woodburning hottub designs. This is a great idea i have a woodshop that creates alot of sawdust occasionally i can fill a 55 galon trashcan in a weekend now i might find good use for it!
like it a lot, I am waiting for the next episode.
Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I'll have a good test video up within the next week.
What tool did you use to cut up the steel drum? I need to cut the bottom off two drums, and don't know if an angle grinder with cut-off wheels would do the trick.
I used a plasma cutter but cut off wheels work great or a sawzall would be faster.
Great info, thanks for the reply!
Yeah, I have used 100's of the 1/16" cutoff discs on my 4 1/2" grinder and they always work great.
i would make a press to pack more saw dust,i feel it would burn longer
id love to make one,just dont have access to saw dust.the only different thing id do is make a press for the sawdust,i think it would burn longer and would hold more.
thanks, great project. have you tried that with any other type of fuel logs pellets ect. work great with saw dust.
Thanks. It will burn anything: wood pellets, leaves, dried plant matter, larger pieces of wood, cutoffs, or hole logs and it burns just as well. My design is virtually 100% efficient and burns all the wood gases along with the wood itself.
Friggin cool bro. Love your videos!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Man. This was a fun project.
This is a fantastic build. Is there any suggestions you could make for a safe build say for a house? I thought of putting it down into a concreted well pit kind of structure and just run underground ducting into the living areas of my house. The extra thermal conduction from the ground would maybe even surpass your 13-15 hour experiment. Would love your input about the alternate method for household use.
It would install the same way you put a wood burning stove into a home. I did design it with a fresh air intake for higher efficiency but that could be left open. By using the flue I can get even longer burn times, but you cut down on the BTU it is putting out.
My dad did this 25 years ago I remember because every night I had to fill the inner barrel we used to burn it from 6 pm and it would still have got ashes next day at 6 we would compress the saw dust real good stomp it down and then water the top of the saw dust or use fresh saw dust from fresh trees being still wet not dried out completely
Awesome.
that is an amazing stove. yes you should market them.
Thank you very much.
This is a great stove. Wish I could buy one. I think you should market them.
Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
Great build. A couple questions about it. Where do people get sawdust the quantities needed to run this stove?
It's not UL certified so how does the insurance deal with this? This is a major issue with most of the home made rocket stove on youtube. It's a shame too. These things are great and rocket stoves are safer than fireplaces and wood burning stoves.
Cabinet shops have endless amounts of kiln dried sawdust for the taking. You just have to ask.
@@sixtyfiveford True. But what about the insurance and UL. I'd love to have two of these things so one burns and the other is loaded. Once before work and once when I get home. Just keep switching.
But if insurance says no, then it's not going in the house. Too bad. It looks great.
It's the same thing with regular rocket stoves. I would like the UL and insurance to actually go to a workshop and see how these are designed and built. Then stick around for the demonstration of how they operate. They ares so safe to use with no creosoting in the flue.
. Nice! ? Did the draft send a lot of unburned dust and sparks up the flue? Thumbs up!
Thanks. It didn't send any sparks or unburnt sawdust up the flue. It smoked a tiny bit for the first 5-10min like any fire but then cleared right up.
Nice work ,you don't mention how you use the butterfly control on the output side, is there any merit in controlling the air going in as in a traditional wood burning stove ? I'm just making one right now and wondered if there were any modifications that you would like to have included that you are saving for the 'mark 2' model. Many thanks, looking forward to a warm workshop.
Michael Sherwin Everything works like a traditional wood stove. I wouldn't change anything.
Thank you very much for such a comprehensive video. I'm dyslexic so find written instructions difficult but I was with you through every part of the construction. I particularly liked the door and its latching mechanism, very clever, elegant and practical.
I had seen a video of a finished sawdust burner and had already got hold of a 55 gallon drum and had been designing in my head the various other aspects but now, with your delightfully presented construction I'm not going to make all the inevitable errors I would have done.
May I make one suggestion; where you use four legs three might be more practical. A tripod is always more stable than a four point support.
Thanks again.
great build I tried one myself to go in the green house. but smokes the whole time. is this usual? or did I do something wrong?
+Ronnie b If the sawdust is still wet/green it can do this.
you can also use any bio mass like rice bran.
You got a good idea. Can I ask how many hours will work After One charge?
I wonder if adding a heating fan for regular wood burning stoves might not help blow out heat for a large room? Plus, wouldn't adding fins to the top side of the barrel help radiate more heat out to the room?
Yes, adding a fan to circulate the heat in the room would help any fireplace. Adding fins to the top is not necessary as there is virtually no heat escaping up the flue unlike a conventional wood stove.. The entire top of the barrel is a heat sink and is pushing 99% of all the heat generated out into the room as is.
cool...thanks for response
Excelente, Felicitaciones; saludos cordiales,desde Temuco Chile
Could you cut a piece of steel to put on top of the sawdust to keep the top from burning? Would the fire eat the steel after a while?
Love2boat92 It doesn't hurt it to burn off the top layer. Any weight put on the top will extinguish the fire once it gets to low.
That is true. I never thought of that. Thanks!
Great video. Job well done.
Thanks, I'm glad you like it.
Maybe a lid sealer ring and a heat sink on top?
Can you try doing a batch soaked in waste veggie oil for us?
I've done it several times with old motor oil and it'll prolong the burn for a few hours.
Good video...I have a question about how do you refuel the stove and how cold would it get inside before your could refuel and relite the stove ...thank you
You would do a refuel around 13-14hours. At that point there is only coals. You could just add material in place or remove the burn chamber and insert another full one. If you wanted it to be completely cooled it would take around 16-18hours.
A good Build, not sure how safe it would be in a house, but a garage or a small shed would definitely see some benefits to that especially in a workshop, it drops to -40 to -45 Celsius here in Northern Ontario Putting this in my workshop this year I'll let you know how it turns out. Quick question could you burn twigs in that and wood butts, or just sawdust and fine particles?
This will burn anything. You can stack logs to leaves and everything in between inside and it'll burn it.
Thank you as always for replying to my comment, i have built 2 sheds with pallets mimicking your pallet build, and your propane bottle stove. Your are an excellent role model.
So with this set up you can not reload tell its out fully right. Could you build a 2nd small barrel pre set it up with saw dust then just pull the first out you & drop in the new full one?
You can pull it out before it is totally out or even refill it in place. Yeah, having a second burn barrel would be ideal.
Hi. Awesome video. What size hole for intake air and exhaust stove pipe? Thanks
I did 6" to match the pipe I had.
@@sixtyfiveford is it a 2.5" intake pipe? I'm gonna try to build one of these for my cabinet shop since it's gonna cost a fortune to heat this winter
Great stove, you should market them.
Do you only have to use sawdust or can you use something else like wood pellets?
It will burn anything: wood pellets, leaves, dried plant matter, larger pieces of wood, cutoffs, oil soaked sawdust or whole logs and it burns just as well. My design is virtually 100% efficient and burns all the wood gases along with the wood itself.