I used a 6" sch 80 chunk of steel pipe for the riser, and 3/4" plate to forum the tunnel, 1/2" plate for the fire box with 1/4" sheet for the body. (I worked in a fab shop so the material was free) After 4 years it still looks like new and has no problem heating a 1200 sq ft home. Thanks for the inspiration!! and saving a LOT of money on heating!!! :) But yeah, always start the fine in the riser.. it's just how they work.
Hi Loz . I have finally managed to manufacture a new woodburner for my house in Portugal. I love your workshop stove . My new creation is made 100% from Castable refractory panels 3 inches thick . the cast panels are glued in place using refractory cement made by Soudal. My stove is a next generation GLO STOVE with afterburn chamber and 25 stainless steel hot air tubes for instant heat . the 500 plus KG stove then stores the heat for over 12 hours after a burn . chenck out the photos i have sent .
Excellent result! As I understand it, your vermiculite is partially destroyed. I can recommend the following refractory mixture: ordinary ash + salt. Cover it in the places where the destruction. I myself have not used it, but I heard about such a composition. Other components are possible - liquid glass (silicate glue), quicklime.
hi Loz I have finally got the will to have a go and the results are amazing . I am learning how to go pro and you tube post .. so until I get up to speed I will have to rely on email coverage with you .
Amazing selfbuilt stove,mine arives tomorrow made in Romania by Ariadne Impex company, they say its 25kw rochet stove 220 kg,140cm tall, 80 cm deep and 43cm wide only my chimney need an upgrade to match the stove.Have a nice and cossy day.
I am a fan of yours. I built a bigger rocket before I saw yours. I too have to go through a similar ignition process. I will also be doing another build, utilizing a vortex, and different refractory materials. I have my rocket in the basement of my home, and I have the exhaust going through a half ton of crushed stone and cement block... a total of about 35 feet (10 meters) of flue to the top of the chimney. I use a 55 gallon steel barrel as a heat exchanger, and I get surface temps between 500° to 700°F. It heats my basement, which in turn heats my home. Combustion air is drawn from my workshop, which has a door to the basement, and slowly draws heated air into the shop, making comfortable. Looking forward to your next build. I have a brief clip of my rocket burning on my channel. It turned out well... but it needs improvements. Please feel free to leave a comment or question.
Thanks mate, good looking stove you built, i think the stalled burning happens more when you run the flue horizontal and i dont have much height to the flue to help pull the gasses along.
I like the efficiency of rocket stoves but for cooking I just don't see the practical control of the heat; you have to constantly fiddle with it. For simple things like boiling water sure but nothing that needs low heat and to simmer. Also there is the start up time. For a cost effective heater (particularly for a small space) I don't think it can be beat. If you keep it running all day for heat and can boil some water anytime for tea then that is plus.
I am going to build one of those like, now (I start tomorrow), you've been a great inspiration for my design and I hope it'll be as successful (yeah, yeah, I hope it'll be better...). Have you considered ceramic paper in a steel tube for the riser ? that is what I'm going for, i'll tell you how it turns out ;)
Haha i really hope it is better mate I am all for improving these heaters. make sure your steel tube is quite thick say 5mm at least, a ceramic paper lining will help but the steel will still reach 700C plus at the base and will eventually start to slowly shale with the expansion and contraction. Let us know how you get on though. cheers
I would use the paper anyway for a starter but I think if I had a long chimney (particularly sideways) I would install a DC fan at the end with a timer set for like 10 minutes just to start a temp draft.
When you moved the glass and smell fumes the stove did not burn all the gases. Would a longer chimney pipe correct that inefficiency ???? 625 square foot shop with little insulation being heated is impressive. Nicely done Loz.
You need to make the air intake the same size as the flue and you wont get any smoke in the room. Looks like the opening you have is way to big. Maybe close off part of the opening a little bit and you wont have this problem when you lite it up from cold
great update . your grinderet wire wheel on your bench is the same as my rust removing one .. they are dodgy in use i have had the wires fly out and stab my uncovered skin . I wear a full face macrolon shield plus my prescription glasses for eye safety. Your vortex looks well developed with almost clear flames very l;ittle unburnt fuel gasses .Interestingly with the glass off the flames in the riser were topping the riser and your claim to smell the fumes is a fair indication that the donut pre riser chamber torroidal fuel mixing would be the next quantum leap in your excellent Stove experience . that flame is only flowing into the riser vortex it is not spinning in a torroidal manner .. my model gas turbine combustion chamber testing revealed the limitations of a simple vortex mixing .The NGV and turbine used to get silly hot due to the combustion expanding into the dilution zone .
@@LozHarrop Just goes to show that there is not enough combustion happening in the primary pre riser combustion zone .keep up the good work .. I will send you an NGV once I get a delivery address from you .
The amazing thing with the burn is how the flame is drawn in and yet the flame still burns backwards to the wood fuel. Any reason why you don't have an extension on the burn chamber for long sticks? Curious Thanks for sharing
If you make the firebox too tall it tends to burn up the wood and out the top when you open it if the firebox was the same diameter as the riser not such a problem then. Cheers.
I really like the way you continue to work towards improving the stove. Have you tried to pull your combustion air from outside so as not to be pulling your warm shop air out and causing a negative pressure in your shop. Causing cold air to be pulled in around windows.
Have you ever used water glass to cover the vermiculite? I use satanite on my forge over the kaowool but it cracks with the thin coating I used i might try water glass too.
Hello. I really like this stove. I'm going to get a wood burner for the lounge, but thought I'd ask if you ever make stuff like this to order? I know they're much more efficient than traditional wood burners, and I have a brick and block rocket stove in my back yard for cooking. Good luck in the years ahead.
Thank you...you can actually do that yourself if you go to settings bottom right of the video - subtitles - on - then go to - auto translate and select your language from the menu. Regards.
Hello friend across the pond! I’m making plans to build a new stove. I’m struggling with placing the door on top. Or the front I know it will be much easier to load from the top. My question is does you stove always work this well when you open the lid without smoke back?
Hi Mike you could put the door on the front and just alter the way the air inlets feed the firebox no problem, if I had more room in the shop I would have also fitted the door to the front and maybe made it longer rather then higher. It can still smoke out of the top now and then if the wind is in a bad direction but I only have a very short flue out of the roof which does not help with wind downdraught from the much taller building behind me.
On my wood stove I have found that using Keo wool insulation gasket is the best. The cheap stuff from CHINA which is a fiberglass weave is just junk. Have to replace that material half way during the winter season. What is your experience with gasket material types ???/ Thanks
Hi Don, there is a set of download plans on my patreon page also other tutorials on rocket stoves its $2 for a month which will give you access to all of that in that time. Cheers.
Hi Can you help me build one? I am not experienced in building...I'll be living in Norfolk!! Would live one in the yurt and one or two in the house....
if you were to dump a small amount of petrol or even a light firelighter into the riser through the glass sight hole it would get the flue drawing well
I've been thinking about building one that would take larger logs and maybe burn all night with a slower burn to heat a house. Do you think that design could be scaled up to use split logs? Would I need to make the riser larger or use some type of mass storage to hold the heat and release it slower?
you could scale it up Brian, taller firebox for longer logs would need a taller riser and with an 8 + inch riser tube you could increase the volume of the firebox, with a bigger riser mass storage would be a good idea as the flue temps would be higher too
Great videos my friend. I have a question for you. Is it possible do you think to have a rocket stove like yours and divert the gases through voids under the floor and heat my workshop? It would be covered in clay to release the heat slowly?
Yes it could be done but with a different design, this design will not push the gasses too far horizontally because of the air control, the flue's also need to rise slightly to avoid condensation laying in the flue Because the flue outlet on this is no more than 10 feet high it does not like horizontal flues, if I could get 20 feet high or so it would improve the draught alot and be much better not possible though. cheers
Thanks for the response. One last question if you don’t mind? Would it work if there was a flue exhausting the stove to begin with. Once it was burning clean divert the gases under the highly insulated floor voids which rise slightly then leave the building at floor level so does not require any draw?
I have noted your height Batchbox ratio. I want a front loader to take longer logs . with a front facing door .Please email me your delivery address for me to send you a cast SS Nozzle Guide Vane .. NGV for you to hot test .. It works super on my cold vacuum test chamber .
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
Maybe not the prettiest rocketstove on you tube. But by far and away one of the best! Excellent stuff
Excellent update. Really good to see how the various elements are performing. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Marcel.
Awesome build! But I can't help to think that it looks a bit like a forbidden toilet 😄
Love this stove. Glad to see that it's still going strong.
Me too!
I used a 6" sch 80 chunk of steel pipe for the riser, and 3/4" plate to forum the tunnel, 1/2" plate for the fire box with 1/4" sheet for the body. (I worked in a fab shop so the material was free) After 4 years it still looks like new and has no problem heating a 1200 sq ft home. Thanks for the inspiration!! and saving a LOT of money on heating!!! :)
But yeah, always start the fine in the riser.. it's just how they work.
Great to hear bud, so glad its worked out well for you.
Hi Loz . I have finally managed to manufacture a new woodburner for my house in Portugal. I love your workshop stove . My new creation is made 100% from Castable refractory panels 3 inches thick . the cast panels are glued in place using refractory cement made by Soudal. My stove is a next generation GLO STOVE with afterburn chamber and 25 stainless steel hot air tubes for instant heat . the 500 plus KG stove then stores the heat for over 12 hours after a burn . chenck out the photos i have sent .
Excellent result! As I understand it, your vermiculite is partially destroyed. I can recommend the following refractory mixture: ordinary ash + salt. Cover it in the places where the destruction. I myself have not used it, but I heard about such a composition. Other components are possible - liquid glass (silicate glue), quicklime.
so would you mix the ash and salt into the waterglass? and in what proportions?
hi Loz I have finally got the will to have a go and the results are amazing . I am learning how to go pro and you tube post .. so until I get up to speed I will have to rely on email coverage with you .
Splendid display of a fantastic rocket stove. I found your channel last year looking at your stove build. Stayed for your other great content.
Thank you very much!
That’s a hell of a stove Loz, when I build a new workshop eventually I’ll be buying some plans of you.
Al.
Easy enough to build for a man like you Al
Thank you fore sharing this and congratulation on this great result.
You are so welcome!
Ok now I gotta watch the other videos on it. Looks like you made a very well engineered heater.
Thanks Erik
Excellent update. I still want to see your new riser casting.
will get around to it mate. Cheers
Amazing selfbuilt stove,mine arives tomorrow made in Romania by Ariadne Impex company, they say its 25kw rochet stove 220 kg,140cm tall, 80 cm deep and 43cm wide only my chimney need an upgrade to match the stove.Have a nice and cossy day.
Thanks mate hope your rebuilding work is going well, I guess it must be moving along if you are getting a stove now. hope it works well for you .
I am a fan of yours. I built a bigger rocket before I saw yours. I too have to go through a similar ignition process.
I will also be doing another build, utilizing a vortex, and different refractory materials.
I have my rocket in the basement of my home, and I have the exhaust going through a half ton of crushed stone and cement block... a total of about 35 feet (10 meters) of flue to the top of the chimney.
I use a 55 gallon steel barrel as a heat exchanger, and I get surface temps between 500° to 700°F.
It heats my basement, which in turn heats my home. Combustion air is drawn from my workshop, which has a door to the basement, and slowly draws heated air into the shop, making comfortable.
Looking forward to your next build.
I have a brief clip of my rocket burning on my channel. It turned out well... but it needs improvements.
Please feel free to leave a comment or question.
Thanks mate, good looking stove you built, i think the stalled burning happens more when you run the flue horizontal and i dont have much height to the flue to help pull the gasses along.
I like the efficiency of rocket stoves but for cooking I just don't see the practical control of the heat; you have to constantly fiddle with it. For simple things like boiling water sure but nothing that needs low heat and to simmer. Also there is the start up time.
For a cost effective heater (particularly for a small space) I don't think it can be beat. If you keep it running all day for heat and can boil some water anytime for tea then that is plus.
I remember watching that build years ago, to see it still working away its just so cool.
I am going to build one of those like, now (I start tomorrow), you've been a great inspiration for my design and I hope it'll be as successful (yeah, yeah, I hope it'll be better...).
Have you considered ceramic paper in a steel tube for the riser ? that is what I'm going for, i'll tell you how it turns out ;)
Haha i really hope it is better mate I am all for improving these heaters. make sure your steel tube is quite thick say 5mm at least, a ceramic paper lining will help but the steel will still reach 700C plus at the base and will eventually start to slowly shale with the expansion and contraction. Let us know how you get on though. cheers
I would use the paper anyway for a starter but I think if I had a long chimney (particularly sideways) I would install a DC fan at the end with a timer set for like 10 minutes just to start a temp draft.
When you moved the glass and smell fumes the stove did not burn all the gases. Would a longer chimney pipe correct that inefficiency ???? 625 square foot shop with little insulation being heated is impressive. Nicely done Loz.
was not a bed smell more of an odour the stove improves combustion once everything is hot too. cheers
@@LozHarrop Thank you for being the most honest person on RUclips. Look forward to learn more from you Loz.
You need to make the air intake the same size as the flue and you wont get any smoke in the room. Looks like the opening you have is way to big. Maybe close off part of the opening a little bit and you wont have this problem when you lite it up from cold
great update . your grinderet wire wheel on your bench is the same as my rust removing one .. they are dodgy in use i have had the wires fly out and stab my uncovered skin . I wear a full face macrolon shield plus my prescription glasses for eye safety. Your vortex looks well developed with almost clear flames very l;ittle unburnt fuel gasses .Interestingly with the glass off the flames in the riser were topping the riser and your claim to smell the fumes is a fair indication that the donut pre riser chamber torroidal fuel mixing would be the next quantum leap in your excellent Stove experience . that flame is only flowing into the riser vortex it is not spinning in a torroidal manner .. my model gas turbine combustion chamber testing revealed the limitations of a simple vortex mixing .The NGV and turbine used to get silly hot due to the combustion expanding into the dilution zone .
He said the secondary air was off while lighting the stove unless I missed something
yes secondary air was off I dont use it until the riser gets hot and the primary air is damped down. It then burns even cleaner
@@LozHarrop Just goes to show that there is not enough combustion happening in the primary pre riser combustion zone .keep up the good work .. I will send you an NGV once I get a delivery address from you .
I was thinking of this stove earlier today!
look nice.. im just wondering if the door is close where the air coming from.. do you have an alternative air inlet?
Yes the air comes into the firebox from underneath 👍
The amazing thing with the burn is how the flame is drawn in and yet the flame still burns backwards to the wood fuel.
Any reason why you don't have an extension on the burn chamber for long sticks? Curious
Thanks for sharing
If you make the firebox too tall it tends to burn up the wood and out the top when you open it if the firebox was the same diameter as the riser not such a problem then. Cheers.
I really like the way you continue to work towards improving the stove. Have you tried to pull your combustion air from outside so as not to be pulling your warm shop air out and causing a negative pressure in your shop. Causing cold air to be pulled in around windows.
yes the air used to come in from outside until i built the addition to the shop it just needs turning in there to go back outside,
Have you ever used water glass to cover the vermiculite? I use satanite on my forge over the kaowool but it cracks with the thin coating I used i might try water glass too.
Hello. I really like this stove. I'm going to get a wood burner for the lounge, but thought I'd ask if you ever make stuff like this to order? I know they're much more efficient than traditional wood burners, and I have a brick and block rocket stove in my back yard for cooking. Good luck in the years ahead.
Thanks Mate, sorry I just dont make them for sale. Cheers.
Excellent as usual!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Please put the Arabic translation. I am a good follower of you and benefited from you very much ... Thank you, always with success and success.
Thank you...you can actually do that yourself if you go to settings bottom right of the video - subtitles - on - then go to - auto translate and select your language from the menu. Regards.
Great piece of work. Excuse me, where is your secondary air inlet?
just on the right hand side near the bottom, a short tube going directly into the riser base.
Brasil,,where is the fire box air intake thanks
looking good . did you receive my riser design .. I have cold tested it using a shop vacuum cleaner flue.
Hello friend across the pond!
I’m making plans to build a new stove. I’m struggling with placing the door on top. Or the front I know it will be much easier to load from the top. My question is does you stove always work this well when you open the lid without smoke back?
Hi Mike you could put the door on the front and just alter the way the air inlets feed the firebox no problem, if I had more room in the shop I would have also fitted the door to the front and maybe made it longer rather then higher. It can still smoke out of the top now and then if the wind is in a bad direction but I only have a very short flue out of the roof which does not help with wind downdraught from the much taller building behind me.
14 Celsius is not 32 Fahrenheit??
I enjoy following this every time
was just testing you John ;-)
@@LozHarrop 😋👍 I live in Canada and have been brought up with both
@@LozHarrop I thought there is supposed to be blue light when you have secondary burn of gases
it 57 f
On my wood stove I have found that using Keo wool insulation gasket is the best. The cheap stuff from CHINA which is a fiberglass weave is just junk. Have to replace that material half way during the winter season. What is your experience with gasket material types ???/ Thanks
the fibreglass lasts around a year on the door, but everywhere else it stays good. I may improve the door seal at some point to take a thicker gasket.
Been watching your progress for three years. Don't recall if you have plans I can purchase.
Hi Don, there is a set of download plans on my patreon page also other tutorials on rocket stoves its $2 for a month which will give you access to all of that in that time. Cheers.
The more paper you use to lite the fire the more will end up in the heat exchanger
Hi
Can you help me build one? I am not experienced in building...I'll be living in Norfolk!! Would live one in the yurt and one or two in the house....
Ive done quite a few videos on rocket design and all the basics on my patron page mate. Cheers.
Maybe I didn't catch it, but where is the air intake?
if you were to dump a small amount of petrol or even a light firelighter into the riser through the glass sight hole it would get the flue drawing well
yes it would David cheers
Hi bring air in from outside you might get more heat
Actually you want warm air not cold air to get the best burn.
I was waiting to see when you opened the secondary air. Does the new base have secondary air still?
yes John it does, i dont open it until I close down the primary air
How do the gases exit the stove??
through a flue on the rear at the bottom of the exchanger
Thanks
I've been thinking about building one that would take larger logs and maybe burn all night with a slower burn to heat a house.
Do you think that design could be scaled up to use split logs? Would I need to make the riser larger or use some type of mass storage to hold the heat and release it slower?
you could scale it up Brian, taller firebox for longer logs would need a taller riser and with an 8 + inch riser tube you could increase the volume of the firebox, with a bigger riser mass storage would be a good idea as the flue temps would be higher too
Hi loz don’t you keep rollers anymore
Still working great mate 👌👌
Thanks Jason
Great videos my friend.
I have a question for you. Is it possible do you think to have a rocket stove like yours and divert the gases through voids under the floor and heat my workshop? It would be covered in clay to release the heat slowly?
Yes it could be done but with a different design, this design will not push the gasses too far horizontally because of the air control, the flue's also need to rise slightly to avoid condensation laying in the flue Because the flue outlet on this is no more than 10 feet high it does not like horizontal flues, if I could get 20 feet high or so it would improve the draught alot and be much better not possible though. cheers
Thanks for the response.
One last question if you don’t mind?
Would it work if there was a flue exhausting the stove to begin with. Once it was burning clean divert the gases under the highly insulated floor voids which rise slightly then leave the building at floor level so does not require any draw?
‘Tis like looking into the devil’s own eye
Where is the exhaust?
on the back at the bottom
ever tried a terracotta tile/aggregate liner ..? to minimize degradation
Your Every post key permanent Data..
I doubt terracotta would hold up for very long with the very high temps in the riser, but no I have not tried it. cheers
@@LozHarrop Thanks Yoda
Yeah I should do some research and not be lazy
What is the size of your shop?
25 x 25 x 8
Can't wait to get mine built . Will be burning coal and wood
Nice, make your riser out of ceramic brick for coal the temps will be really intense. Cheers.
@@LozHarrop thank you for the tip!
I have noted your height Batchbox ratio. I want a front loader to take longer logs . with a front facing door .Please email me your delivery address for me to send you a cast SS Nozzle Guide Vane .. NGV for you to hot test .. It works super on my cold vacuum test chamber .
Words as much as woods🤒
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