Amazing work! One suggestion for a huge quality of life improvement regarding the trash cabinet: You can route out a small gap on the bottom of the cabinet, which will be covered by the drawer front, so it will be completely invisible. It would allow you to hook your foot behind it and open the drawer without touching it when having messy hands. I've done that in my kitchen and it became easily one of the most used features. If you want to get fancy with it, you could also achieve the same with some kind of lever mechanism, having a part of the toekick board be a secret push button.
@@MichaelAlm Looking forward to see your take on it! You will be wondering how you've been living like a caveman, opening trash bins by hand :) I'm having trouble posting links in comments, but I got the original idea by Homesteadonomics on YT. You can find his video of a simple lever design if you search: Cabinet Door Opener - Kick to Open
I would also add something to provide odor "protection", beyond the wood divider. Maybe a way to attach removable air fresheners of some kind since it will be enclosed inside the cabinet. Could be something simple, attached to the underside of that divider.
Totally agree. Our trash cabinet is an old trash compactor with a pedal operated drawer front (came with the house when we bought it) and I'm definiteley keeping the idea for when I remodel our kitchen.
My tip would be to order some more of those handles, put them in a bag with a note saying "kitchen" and never touch them unless you have to replace one. Because more often than not after 3+ years you´ll either be unable to order them anymore or there was a design change so the new ones wouldn´t match (or even fit). Always good to have a few spare handles and grips just in case so you don´t have to redo everything if one of them breaks/bends/whatever.
I live in a spec build neighborhood that is relatively new and when someone was throwing out a cabinet (in pieces) I checked the handles and, sure enough, they matched mine. Stripped those handles and brought them home for exactly that reason.
@@mewmew32 I think it is great to point out things like that. Even if the maker knows, other people may not. I worked for a professional reproduction cabinet maker and they were always glad to have me give my ideas. We all can learn something from each other at some point.
I did that all throughout my house last remodel. Used the same hardware in kitchen, and bath. Laundry room can be included in that too. Just keep one or two extras.
Retired locksmith and wood worker. Thank You for the “ run the hole saw reverse first then forward , prevent chip out”. Wish I thought of that years ago and while teaching others new to the trades.
When you were fitting in the handles and putting in those extra effort to make that snug fit, I was just grinning at your craftsmanship and attention to detail! Love your work ♥️
I absolutely LOVE how this turned out!! Side note, but because of your previous sponsorships with Milanote, I ended up giving it a try because I'm SO disorganized... and I love it! The reason I tried it is because the planner website I used to use was a bit clunky, and the support staff quit responding to customers years ago. Milanote has such a cute aesthetic and it has been a wonderful replacement! Your endorsements mean a lot to busy artists like me; you really seem to understand the importance of workflow. Thanks man!
As a cabinetmaker for over 30 years, I have some ideas for others building their own cabinets. Cabinets are often made with 1/4" backs just stapled to the back of the cabinets. Holes for utilities are cut on the jobsite with the backs usually pre installed. The nailers at the top of the cabinets hold the cabinets to the walls and provide lateral strength so half inch backs are not necessary. The exception are islands and peninsulas that need more lateral strength. Rubio or any other rub on oil/wax finishes are not really recommended for kitchen and bath cabinets that are subjected to lots of wear and water. The exception might be for softwoods where a harder finish like a conversion varnish might not be the best choice. The cabinets looked nice, you did a good job.
Michael: old timey tip - you don't need to meticulously apply fancy "wood workers screw wax (tm)" to each screw with a rag. Buy a toilet flange wax ring. You don't even need to peel the plastic wrapper off. Just jab the pointy end in and go! That ring should last for your entire career.
@@RichSobocinski Agreed - I was going by the advice I got from my vintage brass screw supplier. They said this wouldn't break down and wouldn't cause chemical issues with the screws. BTW, what's with using an impact driver on screws into oak - that's just asking for problems. Screws breaking off is a sign of either over tightening or that the pilot hole is not large enough.
Looks incredible, on the trash cans though: I would get smaller cans, it's going to be annoying to pull them out/pull out the bin liners, with them stuck against each other. I would prefer they hang freely on a mid section, so you can move them independently 😊
This. It was literally the only “miss” I’ve ever seen of his designs. Which hey, for the 4 years I’ve been watching, is an impressive ratio. I make far more misses than that 😂
I made mine with the retainer box having a bottom and holding the bottom of the bin, therefore I can pull the liner out and replace it without removing the bin. I can also compact the contents without further wedging the bin into the retainer box.
When screwing into dense woods with questionable screws i try to wax the screw with some candle wax or paste wax and that really helps reduce the breaking of the screw.
In a tiny kitchen, it would be incredibly useful to utilize the toe kick space, especially with the care that you built them. It is perfect as a drawer for baking sheets, pizza pans and trays. I have one in my kitchen and wish I had more.
I used to work in retail kitchen design; custom and semi-custom cabinet lines typically offer toe-kick drawers as an option, check out the spec books. Kraft maid for sure has it.
DUDE. YOOOOOO. Ive been watching so many cabinet videos because im gonna do it myself. But ive noticed everyone always do the same old thing, shakers and such. I wanna do either something similar to yours with louvers or parametric cabinet and drawer fronts. Good stuff man. Im loving this.
These cabinets are beautiful. If you want to go a different direction, @NewYorkshireWorkshop has video where he made some stunning retro-futuristic cabinets. He shows the whole process. ruclips.net/video/Ag6NPmzNri8/видео.htmlsi=q5oO4W-tJl864T4Y
I grew up in a woodworking and sculpture family, so I love the content in general, but as a vet of the e-learning industry, and its cognitive science focus - I like how you deliver the 'what' and 'why' of what you're doing. Knowing how to handle exceptions BEFORE you need to mitigate them is also a nice touch. I'm subscribing. Good job man.
A tip on scribing; the shop I worked for would always cut a half-inch square groove (.5" wide and deep) on the back of the scribe edges of 3/4" material so that there was less to cut and grind away. It's so much faster and forgiving to scribe 1/4" material than 3/4", and it gives you the option of cutting at an angle to get a sharper scribe edge if you need it. Also seconding the comment about using 1/4" backs stapled directly to the plywood edge; spending the time and effort dadoing grooves around the entire box makes more sense if you have a CNC machine cutting everything for you, but it's generally an unnecessary addition of time and effort for little to no benefit. Of course, the downside is they're more destructive to remove when you've made a mistake and need to resize the box; measure twice, cut once! IIRC we used 1.25" staples for the task and put in enough of them to seal out any gaps for light to come through. Holes for electrical, plumbing, gas, etc were all cut on-site; installers would take measurements exactly like you did, plan the holes, set the box on the kicks, and cut them out. No need to return to the shop with the parts, all the tools you used can be done in the field! Beautiful stuff, I've always loved white oak even though it's a splintery pain the ass to work with. European style cabinetry is my favorite; clean, sharp, and wonderfully geometric. Keep it up!
Amazing work! I know a lot of people have their opinions/suggestions but just wanted to drop one on the placement of the cabinets - I find it best to have the sink flanked by the trash bin and dishwasher on either side (the sink being in the middle so that you can easily toss food to the left and place your dirty dishes to the right). This is all assuming you even want a dishwasher, of course.
I was a cabinet maker in the 1980's and your method and finishing is very much like what we were doing. For some clients we could not use plywood for the larger panels. Instead we had to make up the panel from solid stock, taking pains to flip parts around to prevent warping. (Federal courts even specified solid stock make ups for library shelving!) I don't recall having any call backs on the make ups. Beautiful work. Would love the same in my own kitchen.
for those who do not understand why he scrapes the dried glue prior to using his thickness planner, is that lumps of hard glue will chip the blades of the planer. Not sure it will on indexable carbide but it will on HSS blades.
We used White Oak for all of our cabinets in our rebuild. It's absolutely gorgeous. I had all the wood work coated with the crystal clear polyurethane and it made it look like a high end laminate. I had my cabinet guys put the line vents in the sink cabinet and my pantry doors to replicate the originals.
I came to the comments looking for this. Yes, louvers are individual slats that allow air flow to pass between them like a louvered door or to be operated in unison to open or close like a louvered window. The custom fluting details and integrated handles on these cabinet fronts are chef’s kiss. I’m curious to see how the larger fronts are stabilized since typical slab door/drawer fronts are veneered.
Little jealous with your fit around the pipes and electrical box it is perfect I don’t think I’ve ever seen one that good apart from that the kitchen is looking stunning I love the sponge tray to its a brilliant idea. Thanks for always creating great content it’s always an easy watch
Plumbing and electrical cutouts measured in shop is brilliant as compared to on site guesstimate / hack jobs. I am aware cabinet backs are already attached/manufactured as cabinets are sliding in place near the plumbing. What he did was glorious 👌🏻
I’m ALWAYS IN AWE at the tools being manufactured, used, applied whatever. Amazed and hopefully one day I can get to learn woodworking. I’m ageing but positive 🥰
Brilliant woodworking! Absolutely fascinating since I want to do this for my own home. HOWEVER - "louvers" are individual slats of wood set at an angle in a frame to allow for air circulation - frequently used in closet doors and for shutters. What you are actually creating is "FLUTING" (floo - ting), a beautiful textural detail designed to maximise the beauty and interplay of shadow and wood grain. It is a classic detail (you see it in Federal era and Greek Revival architecture) that enjoyed a revival during the Art Deco phase of design which continued into contemporary styles. So, this retired English teacher and amateur architectural historian gives you a solid "10" for woodworking, but only a "3" for vocabulary. I hope you don't mind me teasing you about vocabulary, love your channel. Keep up the good work!
In the trash cabinet, if you move the trash container drawer up as high as it will go, and add a gasket to the top of the unit, you can seal off the odors while it is closed. You need the top of the cabinet to be sealed from the drawer above, and angle the drawer slides, so they put pressure on the gasket when closed. Then Voila! no odors escape.
It looks gorgeous! The only thing that bothers me is the colour difference between the sink doors and the neighbouring cabinet. Would it be possible to correct that after the topcoat has been applied?
For my ground-up kitchen build I used the same "sponge tray" and my one regret was not building a "sacrificial face" for the hinges; I used the exact same ones you did, and I really felt the connection ended up weaker than I like. It will be a point of failure in the (relatively) near future. If I had installed a 1/2 thick strip of plywood on the hinges, then attached the door front to the plywood, I think it would have worked out MUCH nicer. But all in all, looks amazing! Thank you for the content!
These are again stunning! Btw I built a 90% solid hickory vanity, still working on the drawers and doors and I went for a simple mid mod look for my 70’s house with my favorite integrated drawer pull holes. I love hickory but every screw snapped, broke into the hickory, also broke and snapped my drill bits so I bought two nice sets and those in the size I needed all broke as well! Going slow helped on occasion but it was a nightmare! Hickory cuts great on table-saws although definitely hard and dense but hates screws and drill bits. I was told to use soap or wax which I will when I get the drawers done but omg it was horrible! It ate more pocket hole screws than any other screw too, the only place I used pocket screws was for the bottom so if water ever leaked and ruined the one piece of ply I added then I was hoping to easily back them out but I just know the screws will snap drilling out
would recommend putting a metal lip, or an angle iron on the top inside corner of the bin drawer front. i have the same bin design, and we would tap things and knock that inside corner and damaged it. so we installed a piece of aluminium angle iron to protect it.
I love the design of your cabinets. The choice in wood and how each step is a clear and careful process to make sure everything aligned and fits well. Great job! Thanks for sharing.
Michael Nice cabinets. I have had to deal with red oak and white oak color difference in the past. if you pre-stain the red oak with Minwax Fruitwood you will not be able to tell the difference when your final finish is on. Keep up the good work.
Tip out trays are a great addition to kitchen and bathroom cabinets! Didn’t know they were a thing until I used one at my girlfriend’s place. Added them to your place and are great for storing sponges in the kitchen and tooth brushes in the bathroom.
I was a little sceptical about the handles, but once I saw them all inset etc.... yeah that works... it works real well! definately worth the extra effort
Wow Michael that fridge surround is so INSPIRATIONAL I totally agree that OAK is the perfect choice…just wish we had oak here in Australia. Those panel clamps are TDF. As an interior designer and the materials being wood. The dishwasher would need to be as close to the sink as possible for ease of use and reduce water splashing over the wood.
I know it's been a long time. I once made a very similar trash cabinet, it was virtually the same design but it had wooden lid that moved on it's own to close the bins when you closed the cabinet. I could send some videos, it was a super simple mechanism but it's been working amazing (my mom loves it even though she was scheptical)
I so feel milanote is valuable for contractor communication. I use sketchup to get the 3D images to convey what the blank box elevations show. I take more millwork design than I probably should lol
Hardware manufacturers' screws are best used for testing your trash cans. I always upgrade to Spax screws because, as my father used to say, when a shelf falls down, nobody asks how much the screws cost, only who put them in?
Nice cabinets!!! Not sure if anyone mentioned it but I’ve always used wax on the screws when dealing with white oak and other similar hardwoods. I enjoy all of your vids!!!!!
Curious why you are hanging the trash bins and not placing them in a drawer? Are you not worried about the weight on the drawer slides? Stunning work. As always.
Micheal, this kitchen is fabulous. For a small kitchen, you have utilized every square inch of it. And that is very hard to plan out. I like you, only use separate toe kicks. I don’t understand why cabinet makers use integrated toe kicks, they are hard to set each cabinet and they just don’t look good. Was a cabinet and furniture maker for many, many years and your kitchen would be beautiful in the most expensive home out there
When you are putting in screws into a hardwood don’t use an impact driver. Always use your Festool drill to put in the screws, it will save breaking screws. Also when waxing your screws simply dip them into the wax. Hope this is helpful. I love your enthusiasm and programmes.
Great job man. Yestetday I bought a jigsaw jist to fix my rack, 😀 never before used any wood working tool. Doing it for 2 days already,I think wood working is fun .
I used to use that same tape technique on the router table. The downfall, it would shift the case as the tape stacked up (not to big a deal on a cove bit you use though.) You definitely want to install measuring tape at the ends of your router table that way your fence will be wayyyyyyyyy easier to adjust and setup with everything you are routing.
Yeah, you are learning the same thing I did in the same way; be careful where you buy your screws because the available quality varies enormously. Nice project, inspiring to me as I approach time to start work on my own home.
Kitchen carcasses has been made like this (or very similar ) for decades. The major difference is that we use adjustable legs to make levelling across a long area easier. Your cabinets are made from plywood and you use veneers and wood trim very well, whereas we mostly use laminated mfc. Our system is easier but yours is a better finish.
Beautiful cabs. A thought. If you tape the edging and then nail it, you simply fill the hole in the tape created by the nail gun. Then pull the tape off the route and sand.
Do you ever have issues with drawer fronts warping after you cut them out of large panel glue ups? Essentially tension being released in the wood? or do you order a specific type of sawn lumber for drawer fronts?
Exactly how I mounted drawer fronts only I use and oversized holes with a washer head screw in the drawers so I could adjust the drawer front if needed
It all looks stupid very nice. I was wondering about the Rubio Monocoat finish though. I’ve been told several times that it isn’t a good finish for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, etc., where it is exposed to water frequently. It was recommended that I use Rubio where the A and B component are used together for hard wearing surfaces such as kitchens and what have you. Have you been told otherwise as I really like this finish for wood? Also, I have a very small kitchen as well where storage is at a premium. When I rebuilt the kitchen I put toe kick drawers in to store cookie sheets, cutting boards and flat trays. They’re wonderful.
For the screws, I recommend looking into the hardness of them. Class 10.9 or 12.9 steel with a nickel or zinc coating are my preferred over stainless. A bit more pricey, but overall you're less likely to strip the head over 304 stainless. Lovely build though!
Im a Dutch kitchen desinger and I'm watching your work with so much mixed emotions. The woodwork is incredible. The louvers are beautiful and you're using the proper rails and hinges (european ;-) ) But than, I saw you working with these toe-kicks, cut out a corner in the side panel, putting the back of the cupboard all the way against the wall without leaving any space behind it, having the handles on doors on a different direction than in the drawers, using panels of so many different sizes on a kitchen which is barely 2,5 meters long.. Devil is in the details but I really think you can make your kitchens that much greater if you just had some little tips on things which are quite common here. Once again, your work is amazing. Technically there isnt much out there which matches the quality and detail I see. There are some tips however which makes you life a hole lot easier when installing the kitchen
@sum124get2 why would you leave dead space between the cabinet and the wall? Especially in a smaller kitchen where inches (cm) count? Can you please elaborate on your suggestions for us Americans?
@@StormGod29 a wall is never completely straight. So if the sides of the cupboards extend further than the backpanel, you can always have the cupboards flushed against the wall without any hassle. Apart from that, of the space behind the cupboards is around 5cm (2 of those inches) it gives you the space you need for piping, drain, etc, without any hassle. For the toekicks, man, why give yourself such a hard time! Just put the cupboards on adjustable legs, and have one panel to cover it from left to right. In that case you can just simply level the entire block, and cut 1 panel to size. Its way easier, but even more important, way nicer. And please, dont cut out the shape of the toe kick in the side panel. Why, just why?
@sum124get2, I used to work retail kitchen design, and yes, I totally agree with those type of handles all running horizontally. Keeps the eye flowing across the flutes with much appreciation.
In my country you pay 2-5k for a bunch of not too fancy, not too durable kitchen cabinets. Provided you know how to use them you can buy the tools and materials to build something nicer yourself for the same money. Plus, you gotta keep the tools in addition to an awesome kitchen.
@@duffpaddy3996youd need money to afford the time off working to spend that time building it though.. it requires a lot of tools which also costs money.. etc etc..
@duffpaddy3996 in this country just buying the tools would cost that much for something you may never need again after this house is done. Not worth it if you don't plan on making this your business.
Yeah a few years ago I switched to torx on everything. Never rounded out a screw head since. Also, waxing screws can take a bit of time to do. I tend to put a small drop of camellia oil either on the screw or drop it down the hole. I just find it's a bit quicker.
Floating toe kicks... this is the way. Great video. I think your louver concept is perfect and adds a lot visually as well as tying the various elements together. Watching you chamfer those thin edges made me nervous, because routing is like the forward pass: three things can happen, and only one of them is good. My final thought to this comment is, whoever makes those plastic shims you use must absolutely love you because you're clearly keeping them in business.
Tip of the day ... When using hard wood ... use a thinner "guide" drill bit first. Then scrape some bar soap with the screw and proceed as needed. It´ll be WAY smoother.
would you consider making just new door and drawer fronts exactly like you made your plywood cabinet doors with the edging in white oak plywood? This is exactly what I am looking for and can't find anyone to make them. Have a small kitchen
Not a fan of red oak, so I haven't even considered oak for a very long time. But the white oak looks so much nicer. And your cabinets look absolutely gorgeous. Although in our small kitchen I'd probably end up bleaching or whitewashing as well to brighten things up.
Next time, tape the area around the broken fastener, then tighten the drill check around the broken fastener. Put the drill in reverse, Voila. It works nine out of ten times. You can put a little electric tape for grip. Also, for hardwood, use some soap on the threads, less torque on the cheap fasteners, and fewer breaks.
Thanks to Milanote for sponsoring this video! Sign up for free and start your next creative project: milanote.com/michaelalm
Amazing work!
One suggestion for a huge quality of life improvement regarding the trash cabinet: You can route out a small gap on the bottom of the cabinet, which will be covered by the drawer front, so it will be completely invisible. It would allow you to hook your foot behind it and open the drawer without touching it when having messy hands. I've done that in my kitchen and it became easily one of the most used features.
If you want to get fancy with it, you could also achieve the same with some kind of lever mechanism, having a part of the toekick board be a secret push button.
This is such a good idea!!! I'm totally going to add that in.
@@MichaelAlm Looking forward to see your take on it! You will be wondering how you've been living like a caveman, opening trash bins by hand :)
I'm having trouble posting links in comments, but I got the original idea by Homesteadonomics on YT. You can find his video of a simple lever design if you search: Cabinet Door Opener - Kick to Open
That is such a good idea! Will definitely be doing that in my future house!
I would also add something to provide odor "protection", beyond the wood divider. Maybe a way to attach removable air fresheners of some kind since it will be enclosed inside the cabinet. Could be something simple, attached to the underside of that divider.
Totally agree. Our trash cabinet is an old trash compactor with a pedal operated drawer front (came with the house when we bought it) and I'm definiteley keeping the idea for when I remodel our kitchen.
My tip would be to order some more of those handles, put them in a bag with a note saying "kitchen" and never touch them unless you have to replace one. Because more often than not after 3+ years you´ll either be unable to order them anymore or there was a design change so the new ones wouldn´t match (or even fit). Always good to have a few spare handles and grips just in case so you don´t have to redo everything if one of them breaks/bends/whatever.
that's a valid point but I would add 1 thing - hide it in the kitchen not workshop
I live in a spec build neighborhood that is relatively new and when someone was throwing out a cabinet (in pieces) I checked the handles and, sure enough, they matched mine. Stripped those handles and brought them home for exactly that reason.
that's called attic stock, and pretty sure it's not something you need to tell a professional cabinetmaker about.
@@mewmew32 I think it is great to point out things like that. Even if the maker knows, other people may not. I worked for a professional reproduction cabinet maker and they were always glad to have me give my ideas. We all can learn something from each other at some point.
I did that all throughout my house last remodel. Used the same hardware in kitchen, and bath. Laundry room can be included in that too. Just keep one or two extras.
Retired locksmith and wood worker. Thank You for the “ run the hole saw reverse first then forward , prevent chip out”. Wish I thought of that years ago and while teaching others new to the trades.
When you were fitting in the handles and putting in those extra effort to make that snug fit, I was just grinning at your craftsmanship and attention to detail! Love your work ♥️
I absolutely LOVE how this turned out!! Side note, but because of your previous sponsorships with Milanote, I ended up giving it a try because I'm SO disorganized... and I love it!
The reason I tried it is because the planner website I used to use was a bit clunky, and the support staff quit responding to customers years ago. Milanote has such a cute aesthetic and it has been a wonderful replacement!
Your endorsements mean a lot to busy artists like me; you really seem to understand the importance of workflow. Thanks man!
As a cabinetmaker for over 30 years, I have some ideas for others building their own cabinets. Cabinets are often made with 1/4" backs just stapled to the back of the cabinets. Holes for utilities are cut on the jobsite with the backs usually pre installed. The nailers at the top of the cabinets hold the cabinets to the walls and provide lateral strength so half inch backs are not necessary. The exception are islands and peninsulas that need more lateral strength. Rubio or any other rub on oil/wax finishes are not really recommended for kitchen and bath cabinets that are subjected to lots of wear and water. The exception might be for softwoods where a harder finish like a conversion varnish might not be the best choice. The cabinets looked nice, you did a good job.
Michael: old timey tip - you don't need to meticulously apply fancy "wood workers screw wax (tm)" to each screw with a rag. Buy a toilet flange wax ring. You don't even need to peel the plastic wrapper off. Just jab the pointy end in and go! That ring should last for your entire career.
Or rendered beef fat from the food store
@AndrewRadley-o5e tallow from the store is way more expensive than a toilet ring.
@@RichSobocinski Agreed - I was going by the advice I got from my vintage brass screw supplier. They said this wouldn't break down and wouldn't cause chemical issues with the screws.
BTW, what's with using an impact driver on screws into oak - that's just asking for problems. Screws breaking off is a sign of either over tightening or that the pilot hole is not large enough.
@@AndrewRadley-o5e I'd be worried about the tallow eventually going rancid and making t your project stink
So calming to watch the craftsmanship at work here
A little too calming. I dozed off twice and had to rewatch it!
Looks incredible, on the trash cans though: I would get smaller cans, it's going to be annoying to pull them out/pull out the bin liners, with them stuck against each other. I would prefer they hang freely on a mid section, so you can move them independently 😊
This. It was literally the only “miss” I’ve ever seen of his designs. Which hey, for the 4 years I’ve been watching, is an impressive ratio. I make far more misses than that 😂
I made mine with the retainer box having a bottom and holding the bottom of the bin, therefore I can pull the liner out and replace it without removing the bin. I can also compact the contents without further wedging the bin into the retainer box.
Smaller bins good ..... large bins bad...... much stink before you fill them up ..... 🤔😂😎🇦🇺👌
@@zafnorI just put brown paper at the bottom and flip em out every so often.
I really appreciate your clean way of working. In a superficial world, it's heartwarming.
When screwing into dense woods with questionable screws i try to wax the screw with some candle wax or paste wax and that really helps reduce the breaking of the screw.
And if it's not obvious, pre-drill the holes for the screws
basic soap works nice, so i keep a bar in the shop for that and many more uses
Yep pre drill , wax or soap . Only way to go....🤔😂😎🇦🇺👌
In a tiny kitchen, it would be incredibly useful to utilize the toe kick space, especially with the care that you built them. It is perfect as a drawer for baking sheets, pizza pans and trays. I have one in my kitchen and wish I had more.
Interesting idea. Don’t know enough about cabinets to know how that would work, but could see how that would add otherwise wasted space.
I used to work in retail kitchen design; custom and semi-custom cabinet lines typically offer toe-kick drawers as an option, check out the spec books. Kraft maid for sure has it.
Tiny kitchen. Ha. Ha. Americans.
The sound of thin oak strips being ripped on a table saw is terrific, in the true sense of the word!
I think that he did it sensibly and safely; I don't see why you were terrified.
@@leehaelters6182 even when I do it, that sound just makes me think any second the piece is just gonna come ripping away
@@draztiqmeshaz6226, fair 'nuff. Folks that don't listen to the inner voice end up regretting such. All the best!
You should make a wheely ladder (you know, the ones you get in old libraries) to get at those clamps and the other high up things 😃
That thought has entered my mind. In fact Rockler makes a kit for it 😂
DUDE. YOOOOOO. Ive been watching so many cabinet videos because im gonna do it myself. But ive noticed everyone always do the same old thing, shakers and such. I wanna do either something similar to yours with louvers or parametric cabinet and drawer fronts. Good stuff man. Im loving this.
Revit families for interior design may have something. Software.
These cabinets are beautiful. If you want to go a different direction, @NewYorkshireWorkshop has video where he made some stunning retro-futuristic cabinets. He shows the whole process. ruclips.net/video/Ag6NPmzNri8/видео.htmlsi=q5oO4W-tJl864T4Y
I grew up in a woodworking and sculpture family, so I love the content in general, but as a vet of the e-learning industry, and its cognitive science focus - I like how you deliver the 'what' and 'why' of what you're doing. Knowing how to handle exceptions BEFORE you need to mitigate them is also a nice touch. I'm subscribing. Good job man.
Tape on the router table is a great idea 🙏🏻
A tip on scribing; the shop I worked for would always cut a half-inch square groove (.5" wide and deep) on the back of the scribe edges of 3/4" material so that there was less to cut and grind away. It's so much faster and forgiving to scribe 1/4" material than 3/4", and it gives you the option of cutting at an angle to get a sharper scribe edge if you need it.
Also seconding the comment about using 1/4" backs stapled directly to the plywood edge; spending the time and effort dadoing grooves around the entire box makes more sense if you have a CNC machine cutting everything for you, but it's generally an unnecessary addition of time and effort for little to no benefit. Of course, the downside is they're more destructive to remove when you've made a mistake and need to resize the box; measure twice, cut once! IIRC we used 1.25" staples for the task and put in enough of them to seal out any gaps for light to come through. Holes for electrical, plumbing, gas, etc were all cut on-site; installers would take measurements exactly like you did, plan the holes, set the box on the kicks, and cut them out. No need to return to the shop with the parts, all the tools you used can be done in the field!
Beautiful stuff, I've always loved white oak even though it's a splintery pain the ass to work with. European style cabinetry is my favorite; clean, sharp, and wonderfully geometric. Keep it up!
I have SO much respect for woodworking skills. No room to do this myself but I certainly appreciate the craft. Absolutely stunning work!
Amazing work! I know a lot of people have their opinions/suggestions but just wanted to drop one on the placement of the cabinets - I find it best to have the sink flanked by the trash bin and dishwasher on either side (the sink being in the middle so that you can easily toss food to the left and place your dirty dishes to the right). This is all assuming you even want a dishwasher, of course.
I was a cabinet maker in the 1980's and your method and finishing is very much like what we were doing. For some clients we could not use plywood for the larger panels. Instead we had to make up the panel from solid stock, taking pains to flip parts around to prevent warping. (Federal courts even specified solid stock make ups for library shelving!) I don't recall having any call backs on the make ups. Beautiful work. Would love the same in my own kitchen.
Who else got reeeeeal excited at 30:01 ? 😁Great job Michael, thanks for sharing your amazing work in such a helpful video!
for those who do not understand why he scrapes the dried glue prior to using his thickness planner, is that lumps of hard glue will chip the blades of the planer. Not sure it will on indexable carbide but it will on HSS blades.
A sculpture background. It all makes sense now. Hallelujah for the arts. Chapeau Monsieur
We used White Oak for all of our cabinets in our rebuild. It's absolutely gorgeous. I had all the wood work coated with the crystal clear polyurethane and it made it look like a high end laminate. I had my cabinet guys put the line vents in the sink cabinet and my pantry doors to replicate the originals.
Beautiful, but I think I’d call the design “fluted” rather than “louvered”…
I came to the comments looking for this. Yes, louvers are individual slats that allow air flow to pass between them like a louvered door or to be operated in unison to open or close like a louvered window. The custom fluting details and integrated handles on these cabinet fronts are chef’s kiss. I’m curious to see how the larger fronts are stabilized since typical slab door/drawer fronts are veneered.
Correct, tho flutes are like rounded ribs that stick out, although in this situations I think it's also a valid name.
Yeah, that's a better term, I was trying to think of this myself knowing what louver means, at least here in Oz
@@Karaon, fluting is always concave, reeding is convex.
Reeding and gadrooning are convex (stick out) and fluting is concave (recessed inward).
Little jealous with your fit around the pipes and electrical box it is perfect I don’t think I’ve ever seen one that good apart from that the kitchen is looking stunning I love the sponge tray to its a brilliant idea. Thanks for always creating great content it’s always an easy watch
Plumbing and electrical cutouts measured in shop is brilliant as compared to on site guesstimate / hack jobs. I am aware cabinet backs are already attached/manufactured as cabinets are sliding in place near the plumbing. What he did was glorious 👌🏻
I’m ALWAYS IN AWE at the tools being manufactured, used, applied whatever. Amazed and hopefully one day I can get to learn woodworking. I’m ageing but positive 🥰
Brilliant woodworking! Absolutely fascinating since I want to do this for my own home. HOWEVER - "louvers" are individual slats of wood set at an angle in a frame to allow for air circulation - frequently used in closet doors and for shutters. What you are actually creating is "FLUTING" (floo - ting), a beautiful textural detail designed to maximise the beauty and interplay of shadow and wood grain. It is a classic detail (you see it in Federal era and Greek Revival architecture) that enjoyed a revival during the Art Deco phase of design which continued into contemporary styles. So, this retired English teacher and amateur architectural historian gives you a solid "10" for woodworking, but only a "3" for vocabulary. I hope you don't mind me teasing you about vocabulary, love your channel. Keep up the good work!
In the trash cabinet, if you move the trash container drawer up as high as it will go, and add a gasket to the top of the unit, you can seal off the odors while it is closed. You need the top of the cabinet to be sealed from the drawer above, and angle the drawer slides, so they put pressure on the gasket when closed. Then Voila! no odors escape.
The most cinematic kitchen reveal i've seen so far, nice work!
It looks gorgeous! The only thing that bothers me is the colour difference between the sink doors and the neighbouring cabinet. Would it be possible to correct that after the topcoat has been applied?
Is there any chance that you will have a video on the flooring? Would love to see the whole process of the house coming together?
Yeah! That’s coming soon. It’ll be a full update on the house. Lots of things have changed
25:31 - Always love it when people use multiple coats of Rubio "Mono"coat. They really should ship that stuff with a big asterisk next to the name.
For my ground-up kitchen build I used the same "sponge tray" and my one regret was not building a "sacrificial face" for the hinges; I used the exact same ones you did, and I really felt the connection ended up weaker than I like. It will be a point of failure in the (relatively) near future. If I had installed a 1/2 thick strip of plywood on the hinges, then attached the door front to the plywood, I think it would have worked out MUCH nicer. But all in all, looks amazing! Thank you for the content!
These are again stunning! Btw I built a 90% solid hickory vanity, still working on the drawers and doors and I went for a simple mid mod look for my 70’s house with my favorite integrated drawer pull holes. I love hickory but every screw snapped, broke into the hickory, also broke and snapped my drill bits so I bought two nice sets and those in the size I needed all broke as well! Going slow helped on occasion but it was a nightmare! Hickory cuts great on table-saws although definitely hard and dense but hates screws and drill bits. I was told to use soap or wax which I will when I get the drawers done but omg it was horrible! It ate more pocket hole screws than any other screw too, the only place I used pocket screws was for the bottom so if water ever leaked and ruined the one piece of ply I added then I was hoping to easily back them out but I just know the screws will snap drilling out
would recommend putting a metal lip, or an angle iron on the top inside corner of the bin drawer front. i have the same bin design, and we would tap things and knock that inside corner and damaged it. so we installed a piece of aluminium angle iron to protect it.
I love the design of your cabinets. The choice in wood and how each step is a clear and careful process to make sure everything aligned and fits well. Great job! Thanks for sharing.
Michael
Nice cabinets. I have had to deal with red oak and white oak color difference in the past. if you pre-stain the red oak with Minwax Fruitwood you will not be able to tell the difference when your final finish is on. Keep up the good work.
Tip out trays are a great addition to kitchen and bathroom cabinets! Didn’t know they were a thing until I used one at my girlfriend’s place. Added them to your place and are great for storing sponges in the kitchen and tooth brushes in the bathroom.
Nice flutes. Lots of cabinets were built like this in the 50s and 60s This style is slowly making a come back.
I was a little sceptical about the handles, but once I saw them all inset etc.... yeah that works... it works real well! definately worth the extra effort
Wow Michael that fridge surround is so INSPIRATIONAL I totally agree that OAK is the perfect choice…just wish we had oak here in Australia. Those panel clamps are TDF. As an interior designer and the materials being wood. The dishwasher would need to be as close to the sink as possible for ease of use and reduce water splashing over the wood.
Pretty. Groovy drawer fronts are so cool.
I know it's been a long time. I once made a very similar trash cabinet, it was virtually the same design but it had wooden lid that moved on it's own to close the bins when you closed the cabinet. I could send some videos, it was a super simple mechanism but it's been working amazing (my mom loves it even though she was scheptical)
Always predrill white oak and hickory drawer fronts! I also learned the hard way! Beautiful cabinets!!
I so feel milanote is valuable for contractor communication. I use sketchup to get the 3D images to convey what the blank box elevations show. I take more millwork design than I probably should lol
Hardware manufacturers' screws are best used for testing your trash cans. I always upgrade to Spax screws because, as my father used to say, when a shelf falls down, nobody asks how much the screws cost, only who put them in?
Nice cabinets!!! Not sure if anyone mentioned it but I’ve always used wax on the screws when dealing with white oak and other similar hardwoods. I enjoy all of your vids!!!!!
Curious why you are hanging the trash bins and not placing them in a drawer? Are you not worried about the weight on the drawer slides? Stunning work. As always.
Looks amazing. I like the black handles. Gives the front a little accent. I love the sponge tray. That is a great use of the space.
Micheal, this kitchen is fabulous. For a small kitchen, you have utilized every square inch of it. And that is very hard to plan out. I like you, only use separate toe kicks. I don’t understand why cabinet makers use integrated toe kicks, they are hard to set each cabinet and they just don’t look good. Was a cabinet and furniture maker for many, many years and your kitchen would be beautiful in the most expensive home out there
Beautiful work. Incredible attention to detail on nailing those cut outs. Haha. Thats some skill there.
When you are putting in screws into a hardwood don’t use an impact driver. Always use your Festool drill to put in the screws, it will save breaking screws. Also when waxing your screws simply dip them into the wax. Hope this is helpful. I love your enthusiasm and programmes.
as someone who just started woodworking and chose a entertainment stand as my first big project i can confidently say, I HATE INSTALLING SLIDES
I really like the fronts of the drawers
@30:50 if you bevel the edge of your board your scribe will fit better. Doesn't need by much, 5 degrees is plenty. (old finish carpenter's trick)
That looks great, brilliant work!
Great job man.
Yestetday I bought a jigsaw jist to fix my rack, 😀 never before used any wood working tool.
Doing it for 2 days already,I think wood working is fun .
I was about to add a comment about predrilling and waxing screws for hardwood millwork but it looks like you got it all set. Nice project.
I used to use that same tape technique on the router table. The downfall, it would shift the case as the tape stacked up (not to big a deal on a cove bit you use though.)
You definitely want to install measuring tape at the ends of your router table that way your fence will be wayyyyyyyyy easier to adjust and setup with everything you are routing.
Yeah, you are learning the same thing I did in the same way; be careful where you buy your screws because the available quality varies enormously. Nice project, inspiring to me as I approach time to start work on my own home.
Kitchen carcasses has been made like this (or very similar ) for decades. The major difference is that we use adjustable legs to make levelling across a long area easier. Your cabinets are made from plywood and you use veneers and wood trim very well, whereas we mostly use laminated mfc. Our system is easier but yours is a better finish.
Beautiful cabs. A thought. If you tape the edging and then nail it, you simply fill the hole in the tape created by the nail gun. Then pull the tape off the route and sand.
Curious what is the thickest material that you can put in those clamps? Don't forget to seal that split in your vaneer at that hinge.
Up to 3” 👍
@@MichaelAlm so a roubo bench glue up is possible. thanks.
Your kitchen is turning out to definitely be the nicest looking kitchen I have ever seen.
Do you ever have issues with drawer fronts warping after you cut them out of large panel glue ups? Essentially tension being released in the wood? or do you order a specific type of sawn lumber for drawer fronts?
17:35 Stripping the screws? You are using Philips? Is Torx not a thing in the US?
On hardwoods, I've drilled tapped with 8/24 modified tap wax screws. Works for me.
Exactly how I mounted drawer fronts only I use and oversized holes with a washer head screw in the drawers so I could adjust the drawer front if needed
It all looks stupid very nice. I was wondering about the Rubio Monocoat finish though. I’ve been told several times that it isn’t a good finish for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, etc., where it is exposed to water frequently. It was recommended that I use Rubio where the A and B component are used together for hard wearing surfaces such as kitchens and what have you. Have you been told otherwise as I really like this finish for wood? Also, I have a very small kitchen as well where storage is at a premium. When I rebuilt the kitchen I put toe kick drawers in to store cookie sheets, cutting boards and flat trays. They’re wonderful.
Did anyone else cringe when the chisel scratched the plywood finish?
I did 😂
@@MichaelAlm VERY impressive kitchen cabinets!! Awesome job!
7:04
Yep, just saw that bit and ouch.
Great work, Michael! What's that light you used when you mounted the drawer slides in the cabinet (20:30)?
For the screws, I recommend looking into the hardness of them. Class 10.9 or 12.9 steel with a nickel or zinc coating are my preferred over stainless. A bit more pricey, but overall you're less likely to strip the head over 304 stainless. Lovely build though!
It was so satisfying when you slid that sink cabinet over the cut outs. Great job!
Im a Dutch kitchen desinger and I'm watching your work with so much mixed emotions. The woodwork is incredible. The louvers are beautiful and you're using the proper rails and hinges (european ;-) )
But than, I saw you working with these toe-kicks, cut out a corner in the side panel, putting the back of the cupboard all the way against the wall without leaving any space behind it, having the handles on doors on a different direction than in the drawers, using panels of so many different sizes on a kitchen which is barely 2,5 meters long..
Devil is in the details but I really think you can make your kitchens that much greater if you just had some little tips on things which are quite common here.
Once again, your work is amazing. Technically there isnt much out there which matches the quality and detail I see. There are some tips however which makes you life a hole lot easier when installing the kitchen
I’m always told by my design teachers: REFINE! REFINE! REFINE!
@sum124get2 why would you leave dead space between the cabinet and the wall? Especially in a smaller kitchen where inches (cm) count? Can you please elaborate on your suggestions for us Americans?
@@StormGod29 a wall is never completely straight. So if the sides of the cupboards extend further than the backpanel, you can always have the cupboards flushed against the wall without any hassle. Apart from that, of the space behind the cupboards is around 5cm (2 of those inches) it gives you the space you need for piping, drain, etc, without any hassle.
For the toekicks, man, why give yourself such a hard time! Just put the cupboards on adjustable legs, and have one panel to cover it from left to right. In that case you can just simply level the entire block, and cut 1 panel to size. Its way easier, but even more important, way nicer.
And please, dont cut out the shape of the toe kick in the side panel. Why, just why?
@sum124get2, I used to work retail kitchen design, and yes, I totally agree with those type of handles all running horizontally. Keeps the eye flowing across the flutes with much appreciation.
I used to use a bar of soap to lube the screws going into white oak. Lightly dry soap bottom 1/2 of screw
I installed the sponge hardware after cabinets installed! Smart doing it before countertops
I can only imagine how challenging that is 😳
I like the cover you put on drawer if you mind I would use that my next project.
That tap fence trick was worth the whole video. Very clever! Really beautiful cabinet work
Using the hole saw backwards is a great tip I’ve never seen before. Thank you!😊
"Why don’t more people build Kitchens like this?" - money.
In my country you pay 2-5k for a bunch of not too fancy, not too durable kitchen cabinets. Provided you know how to use them you can buy the tools and materials to build something nicer yourself for the same money.
Plus, you gotta keep the tools in addition to an awesome kitchen.
@@duffpaddy3996youd need money to afford the time off working to spend that time building it though.. it requires a lot of tools which also costs money.. etc etc..
@duffpaddy3996 in this country just buying the tools would cost that much for something you may never need again after this house is done. Not worth it if you don't plan on making this your business.
@@cassandrabrowne-schneider4951 you can do mostly the same using hand tools for two hundred or so bucks
Yeah a few years ago I switched to torx on everything. Never rounded out a screw head since. Also, waxing screws can take a bit of time to do. I tend to put a small drop of camellia oil either on the screw or drop it down the hole. I just find it's a bit quicker.
Thanks for that tip with the screws it'll be a big help.
It's all coming along so well. Love the cabinets. That hardware is fab.
Floating toe kicks... this is the way. Great video. I think your louver concept is perfect and adds a lot visually as well as tying the various elements together.
Watching you chamfer those thin edges made me nervous, because routing is like the forward pass: three things can happen, and only one of them is good.
My final thought to this comment is, whoever makes those plastic shims you use must absolutely love you because you're clearly keeping them in business.
Really, really nice work. This is going to be a lovely kitchen.
I am enjoying your skills and the progress of the project.
I've never liked to install base cabinets before uppers. Just saves the potential scratch and damage problems. 🔨
Hey, using a little bit of grease for the screws help a lot...my dad did it with the screw ruffling in his hair...
Tip of the day ... When using hard wood ... use a thinner "guide" drill bit first. Then scrape some bar soap with the screw and proceed as needed. It´ll be WAY smoother.
Beautiful! I'm sorry if I missed it, but what kind of counter top are you going with?
Beautiful. It kind of reminds me of a 1920s train. Superb job.❤
You are talking about the Art Deco period.
Is there a such style as retro modern? Very classy!
would you consider making just new door and drawer fronts exactly like you made your plywood cabinet doors with the edging in white oak plywood? This is exactly what I am looking for and can't find anyone to make them. Have a small kitchen
Not a fan of red oak, so I haven't even considered oak for a very long time. But the white oak looks so much nicer. And your cabinets look absolutely gorgeous. Although in our small kitchen I'd probably end up bleaching or whitewashing as well to brighten things up.
Bleached white oak looks amazing! Red oak always looks dated to me.
Love the cabinets and the finish. You’re a true artist. Great job 👏🏻
Next time, tape the area around the broken fastener, then tighten the drill check around the broken fastener. Put the drill in reverse, Voila. It works nine out of ten times. You can put a little electric tape for grip. Also, for hardwood, use some soap on the threads, less torque on the cheap fasteners, and fewer breaks.
Great video! Its coming along beautifully my friend.