Points and carb on Everything. If I buy a bike and it has electronics it gets changed to Points immediately. If you need an electronic ignition I have a whole drawer full.
For anybody with a big twin Evo. Here’s my experience. my Dynatek ignition had some burnt wires from the exhaust. I watched this video and switched to a point system off my buddies shovel head build. I chose points because I thought if I was ever riding, I could always get spare parts from a friend from a garage and I like the old school simplicity of it. But my bike started running shitty I was always working on the carb, adjusting the push rods trying to figure things out and it was always the points. The gap, the timing, the plate shifting, the springs on the advance weights, it getting wet parts, coming lose. I got tired of it after six months. Too many variables to go wrong. I just ordered a ultima full ignition system for 200 bucks on Amazon with wires, coil, plug wires and it came in two days. I installed it in one hour. I started my bike and it runs perfectly. What I thought was a carburetor issue was instantly solved . It hasn’t run this good months. Keep in mind this is for 100 cubic inch big twin Evo with the Mikuni HSR carb. Points may be better on some bikes but for me and my direct experience this ultima system is simple. Worst case scenario it’s two days out on Amazon and a lot of shops have some old dynatek units kicking around for 100 bucks. Now I keep my old point system with an extra coil in my bag, just in case my electronic ignition shorts out or burns a wire . Just a little insight from my own recent journey . Oh yeah, in the shop charged me $900 to install the points system parts included . Later, I found out you can order a whole system for 50 bucks on Amazon and an of hour labor. So basically I paid $950 an hour for that job. Olive Street Customs Ventura. 👏
I use a dyna S module. It also uses the mechanical advance as well. I use an OEM coil and only have to run 2 wires. My unit is about 100 bucks. And I do carry a spare. I just scribed a mark inside the cup so I don't have to static time it. This way if I have to change it on the fly it's about a 30 min. fix and I can just retime everything after my trip. Great video keep them going.
After running points for the last 50 years of riding, I’ve found the Rawhide Ignition to be one of the best I’ve tried on my ‘83 shovel. Very easy to kick start and great performance. I still carry points as a backup however.
I ran a Dyna-s on my '79 Ironhead rigid bobber until it died. Went back to points and have had no issues after several years of riding. Mostly ride my 2001 Heritage but, still fun to hop on the old Ironhead from time to time.
My '81 FLH is still running the stock external electronic ignition. When it shits the bed, I'll "upgrade" it to points. And yes...fine-tuna-bull is a thing. Cheers
I have a 1971 FLH Shovalhead that has points, I've been told and have read that points are better if you're kick starting you motor. I,ve had the same set of points in my bike for over 5 years and the still work fine. Of course I check the point gap and sand them after it's set up over the winter and put lub on the cam.
You get some type of warning when you’re points start to go bad. The back will start to run crappy. Points, for the most part don’t all of a sudden die.
Use the newer rawhide electronic ignition on BT evo, carry points as back up for big trips. Spent the big money up front, bought points cheap at a swap for a little insurance to stay on the road if need be.
When the electronic ignition went belly up on my 84 Iron Head Sportster, I switched it to points. It ran better on points, but gas mileage did drop because the electronic ignition does advance more cruising on the highway than points. One thing with points, you can fix it anywhere for a few bucks. Electronic, I think it was $120 and that was 20 years ago. So, they both have their place. I have a 99 Softail Custom now, and it still has the electronic factory ignition. 65,000 miles without a problem. I believe they have improved them over the years. But if it dies on me, I will probably go back to points ignition. I like simplicity.
It think that the old late 70s HD electronic ignition and the limited tunning possibilities turned many away from them and many just went back to points , but the aftermarket stepped up and developed some very good systems.
i dont know jack schmidt about this topic but I enjoy your videos about bikes! I dont work on bikes but would like to at some point and the vids help me understand and entertain my curiosity. Thank you!
@@codyschoppercorner5727 Since over here mother nature thinks its not time to ride yet, except one loves to have blue fingers, your stuff is even more lifesaving :D. But mainly interesting because its unfiltered how these things work. No fancytancy, No mybikeisbadderthanyours. Building, Riding, really good. Keep it up.
Just taken my 1996 Evo Road King back to carb and points ignition. As long as you use a 5ohm coil, gap your points to 20thou and plugs to 18thou its easy to do. You'll need to elongate the timing slots on the backing plate by a few mm. Don't bother timing it off the flywheel mark. Fully advance the backing plate, get it started and warm and then adjust timing by moving the backing plate with bike running until it idles happy and revs happy and your good to go. Bike has never run better.
Good video! I like electronic ignition, like you said its easier to mess with. My bro is a hardcore points guy, its almost like a religion for him. I think the both have their good and bad sides, its a matter of taste what you like to use.
Great video... Points can burn the coil out if the ignition switch is left on and the motor is not running. It all depends if the contact is opened or closed, when the motor has stopped turning. It also has to be 5ohm and not 3 ohm coil. 3 ohm coils burn out on a points system. 3 ohm is for most electronic systems.
The stock factory electronic ignition on my '81 FXS just shit the bed recently and I replaced it with a Dyna S. Hell, the stock one lasted 41 years, so I think I got my monies worth. To me, it's set it and forget it. Points are too much of a pain in the ass, especially since I use the button almost exclusively now that I'm old and fat.
i prefer the traditional ponits I have gotten pretty fast in changin and maintaining them and i have like 2 and some spare parts in my bags. I feel like elektronics are good to but i somehow don't want to mess with them since I know one system so well
I'm a points guy. They work well enough and they are easy to fix. I know a few groups that always bring one or two sets of points between them...... for when the electronics fail.
electronic ignition systems have no advantages over points. When electronic ignitions die, they die without warning. Points will let you know when they need attention and a spare set can be carried in your tool bag. Both of my Evos have points. ETA: Both of my factory original electronic ignitions failed. My '84 EVO systems died without warning in 1992. The cost to "upgrade" was $500. The cost to convert to points was $50. I ran those same Blue Streak points and condenser for 11 years. the electronic ignition on my '99 EVO died without warning. I already had a points conversion kit on the shelf for my '84. Now both of my EVOS are sporting points and they will so long as I can get parts when I need them.
point ing. always lets u know when kicking over there not happy always carry point file/points/condenser electronic tells u nothing just dont work i also run two condenser per set of points HAPPY TRAILS
@@codyschoppercorner5727 about 4 yrs. must have goten made condensers bit a pain changing them out on genney engine so i added one at the coil no trouble sense HAPPY TRAILS
I have a2003 H D 100th year an.wich one do i need my electronic ignit.module is bad i think want togo around that it about 400 hundred dollars i dont have i dont know what to get can u help go cheap.
The Dyna S is just a "pick up"style of non points and no moving parts other then a magnet that is screwed into cam alo g with the advance weight. Don't know of an easier, simple set up!
Hey Cody, I hope you're having a great day! :) I was wondering if you could throw some advice? I've been watching many of your videos, which are fantastic, and I'm trying to nail down a good platform regarding a chopper for myself. Learning many ideas and figuring out which route I would like to go. I have an opportunity......could you give a 1-10 on a 1992 fxstc. The evolution is a good solid base. Not sure of that year? Was it the earlier or later model evos that had better performance ? Thanks, if you have the time to respond. Cheers
Pretty much any year evo is good. I like the 1990-1999 the best. They are super reliable and very responsive to upgrades. I always run the EV-27 cam and a mikuni hsr-42 carb and it’s like a whole different bike.
@Cody's Chopper Corner thanks for the reply!! Says there is a new ev23 in it. Chopped out all ready......I like the profile, but will change up. Its a 5 speed tranny so im thinking thats norm. Lots to it, won't bore you. I will have a chopper one day :) thanks for your videos Cody top notch!
Cody hi, you look sad .. last videos I remember you put some humor in it.. question - I am running electronic ignition and never got deep into that , but as a spare I wuold like to have points . So please tell me what do I need ? I mean if I am on a road and kick out electronic ignition what do I need to have to make it points? and your opinions blue steak vs accel?
Haha I’m not sad, but yeah, I’d recommend blue streak over accel. You would need the points with mounting plate and condenser. The mechanical and the correct coil for points.
da ultima single fire eye g0t off ebay($150) & put on my 79 ir0nhead 7or8 yrs ag0 eye wud kn0t trade fur nuthin!! aint had to touch it since we put it 0n. 🤘😎🤘
A.m.f.shovel stay with points that's what the bike 🚲 was made for !!! If not get the HELL OUT OF SHOVELS ..... YOU ALL CAN STILL US 6 CLINDER Chevy points... 😂
Sandpaper is fine. No emery paper. The dust can be mildly conductive and the abrasive left behind is ultra fine and won't make the advance unit very happy.
Nothing better than listening to someone who knows what they are talking about ramble on
Points and carb on Everything.
If I buy a bike and it has electronics it gets changed to Points immediately.
If you need an electronic ignition I have a whole drawer full.
For anybody with a big twin Evo. Here’s my experience. my Dynatek ignition had some burnt wires from the exhaust. I watched this video and switched to a point system off my buddies shovel head build.
I chose points because I thought if I was ever riding, I could always get spare parts from a friend from a garage and I like the old school simplicity of it. But my bike started running shitty I was always working on the carb, adjusting the push rods trying to figure things out and it was always the points. The gap, the timing, the plate shifting, the springs on the advance weights, it getting wet parts, coming lose. I got tired of it after six months. Too many variables to go wrong. I just ordered a ultima full ignition system for 200 bucks on Amazon with wires, coil, plug wires and it came in two days. I installed it in one hour.
I started my bike and it runs perfectly. What I thought was a carburetor issue was instantly solved . It hasn’t run this good months. Keep in mind this is for 100 cubic inch big twin Evo with the Mikuni HSR carb. Points may be better on some bikes but for me and my direct experience this ultima system is simple. Worst case scenario it’s two days out on Amazon and a lot of shops have some old dynatek units kicking around for 100 bucks.
Now I keep my old point system with an extra coil in my bag, just in case my electronic ignition shorts out or burns a wire .
Just a little insight from my own recent journey .
Oh yeah, in the shop charged me $900 to install the points system parts included . Later, I found out you can order a whole system for 50 bucks on Amazon and an of hour labor. So basically I paid $950 an hour for that job. Olive Street Customs Ventura. 👏
@@RUclipsr-nx2ys love this
I use a dyna S module. It also uses the mechanical advance as well. I use an OEM coil and only have to run 2 wires. My unit is about 100 bucks. And I do carry a spare. I just scribed a mark inside the cup so I don't have to static time it. This way if I have to change it on the fly it's about a 30 min. fix and I can just retime everything after my trip. Great video keep them going.
After running points for the last 50 years of riding, I’ve found the Rawhide Ignition to be one of the best I’ve tried on my ‘83 shovel. Very easy to kick start and great performance. I still carry points as a backup however.
I ran a Dyna-s on my '79 Ironhead rigid bobber until it died. Went back to points and have had no issues after several years of riding. Mostly ride my 2001 Heritage but, still fun to hop on the old Ironhead from time to time.
I really like the power of points. My uncle's bike ran good with electronic ignition but now since I put points in it, it screams like a scolded dog😅.
Ive converted a few bikes with the Dyna S kit. Never had one leave me stranded due to an ignition issue. Had one i kept for like 10 years, zero issue.
My '81 FLH is still running the stock external electronic ignition. When it shits the bed, I'll "upgrade" it to points. And yes...fine-tuna-bull is a thing. Cheers
Dude please do a video installing a mag on a cone shovel!!
I plan on it.
a really thorough discussion and explanation thanks
Excellent video man! Huge argument... pros and cons to both
I have a 1971 FLH Shovalhead that has points, I've been told and have read that points are better if you're kick starting you motor. I,ve had the same set of points in my bike for over 5 years and the still work fine. Of course I check the point gap and sand them after it's set up over the winter and put lub on the cam.
just stuck points in my 96 sporty. sure cleans up the wiring, and i don't hot rod around any more. i'm 72.
Also running them on my 95, I feel like they make as much power as electronic if not cleaner
Keep up the good work Cody! your videos are helping me a lot during my first shovel build as a newbie
That’s awesome. Thanks for watching
You get some type of warning when you’re points start to go bad. The back will start to run crappy. Points, for the most part don’t all of a sudden die.
Use the newer rawhide electronic ignition on BT evo, carry points as back up for big trips. Spent the big money up front, bought points cheap at a swap for a little insurance to stay on the road if need be.
Great video, thanks
When the electronic ignition went belly up on my 84 Iron Head Sportster, I switched it to points. It ran better on points, but gas mileage did drop because the electronic ignition does advance more cruising on the highway than points. One thing with points, you can fix it anywhere for a few bucks. Electronic, I think it was $120 and that was 20 years ago. So, they both have their place. I have a 99 Softail Custom now, and it still has the electronic factory ignition. 65,000 miles without a problem. I believe they have improved them over the years. But if it dies on me, I will probably go back to points ignition. I like simplicity.
So they are reliable until they stop working...got it. Thanks man....that was....awesome.
Yeah bud…. That’s how…. Things work…. Otherwise it would be “indestructible” not “reliable”
@@codyschoppercorner5727 I'm pretty sure my 71 Trident is. But the brakes are crap.
I have Dyna S and it's been bullet proof on my 75 chopper. I carry everything I need to switch to points if needed on the road....
I feel like this is the best way. Reliable ignition system, but if it fails, back to basics to get you where you need to go!
It think that the old late 70s HD electronic ignition and the limited tunning possibilities turned many away from them and many just went back to points , but the aftermarket stepped up and developed some very good systems.
Converted to points on my 83 FXWG when the electronic ignition went bad. Had no problems kick starting or electric starting.
On yah Cody Cheers aye !
Cool channel-subbed!
i dont know jack schmidt about this topic but I enjoy your videos about bikes! I dont work on bikes but would like to at some point and the vids help me understand and entertain my curiosity. Thank you!
Awesome man. Glad you dig them.
Greetings from germany and thanks for your work. Im learning a lot, even if its way out of my league. Love your style. safe rides.
Thanks man! I was just looking at my numbers and was wondering if anyone from Germany watched. That’s awesome.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 Since over here mother nature thinks its not time to ride yet, except one loves to have blue fingers, your stuff is even more lifesaving :D. But mainly interesting because its unfiltered how these things work. No fancytancy, No mybikeisbadderthanyours. Building, Riding, really good. Keep it up.
@@christianmajewski6030 thanks man! Yeah same here. It snowed a 12” yesterday. We were all riding this time last year.
Just taken my 1996 Evo Road King back to carb and points ignition. As long as you use a 5ohm coil, gap your points to 20thou and plugs to 18thou its easy to do. You'll need to elongate the timing slots on the backing plate by a few mm. Don't bother timing it off the flywheel mark. Fully advance the backing plate, get it started and warm and then adjust timing by moving the backing plate with bike running until it idles happy and revs happy and your good to go. Bike has never run better.
Old bikes , points work just fine.
Good video! I like electronic ignition, like you said its easier to mess with. My bro is a hardcore points guy, its almost like a religion for him. I think the both have their good and bad sides, its a matter of taste what you like to use.
Yeah, guys get like that. I completely understand. But I agree with you.
Great video... Points can burn the coil out if the ignition switch is left on and the motor is not running. It all depends if the contact is opened or closed, when the motor has stopped turning. It also has to be 5ohm and not 3 ohm coil. 3 ohm coils burn out on a points system. 3 ohm is for most electronic systems.
Run electronic and keep points as a backup.
Remember that one time you made a video thing? That was awesome! 😂😅
The stock factory electronic ignition on my '81 FXS just shit the bed recently and I replaced it with a Dyna S.
Hell, the stock one lasted 41 years, so I think I got my monies worth. To me, it's set it and forget it. Points are too much of a pain in the ass, especially since I use the button almost exclusively now that I'm old and fat.
Hahaha yeah man whatever works.
i prefer the traditional ponits I have gotten pretty fast in changin and maintaining them and i have like 2 and some spare parts in my bags. I feel like elektronics are good to but i somehow don't want to mess with them since I know one system so well
I'm a points guy. They work well enough and they are easy to fix. I know a few groups that always bring one or two sets of points between them...... for when the electronics fail.
Can you do something for a dyna 2076 shovel to figure out how to time it so you can see the timing marks for plug heads
Dyna 2000 for a 1976 shovel with 4 plug heads
I'd like some advice on dropping an 88 Softail custom
electronic ignition systems have no advantages over points. When electronic ignitions die, they die without warning. Points will let you know when they need attention and a spare set can be carried in your tool bag. Both of my Evos have points. ETA: Both of my factory original electronic ignitions failed. My '84 EVO systems died without warning in 1992. The cost to "upgrade" was $500. The cost to convert to points was $50. I ran those same Blue Streak points and condenser for 11 years. the electronic ignition on my '99 EVO died without warning. I already had a points conversion kit on the shelf for my '84. Now both of my EVOS are sporting points and they will so long as I can get parts when I need them.
👍😎👍
point ing. always lets u know when kicking over there not happy always carry point file/points/condenser electronic tells u nothing just dont work i also run two condenser per set of points HAPPY TRAILS
That’s a cool trick. What does running two condensers do?
@@codyschoppercorner5727 about 4 yrs. must have goten made condensers bit a pain changing them out on genney engine so i added one at the coil no trouble sense HAPPY TRAILS
I have a2003 H D 100th year an.wich one do i need my electronic ignit.module is bad i think want togo around that it about 400 hundred dollars i dont have i dont know what to get can u help go cheap.
The Dyna S is just a "pick up"style of non points and no moving parts other then a magnet that is screwed into cam alo g with the advance weight.
Don't know of an easier, simple set up!
Hey Cody, I hope you're having a great day! :) I was wondering if you could throw some advice? I've been watching many of your videos, which are fantastic, and I'm trying to nail down a good platform regarding a chopper for myself. Learning many ideas and figuring out which route I would like to go. I have an opportunity......could you give a 1-10 on a 1992 fxstc. The evolution is a good solid base. Not sure of that year? Was it the earlier or later model evos that had better performance ?
Thanks, if you have the time to respond. Cheers
Pretty much any year evo is good. I like the 1990-1999 the best. They are super reliable and very responsive to upgrades. I always run the EV-27 cam and a mikuni hsr-42 carb and it’s like a whole different bike.
@Cody's Chopper Corner thanks for the reply!! Says there is a new ev23 in it. Chopped out all ready......I like the profile, but will change up. Its a 5 speed tranny so im thinking thats norm. Lots to it, won't bore you. I will have a chopper one day :) thanks for your videos Cody top notch!
Cody hi, you look sad .. last videos I remember you put some humor in it.. question - I am running electronic ignition and never got deep into that , but as a spare I wuold like to have points . So please tell me what do I need ? I mean if I am on a road and kick out electronic ignition what do I need to have to make it points? and your opinions blue steak vs accel?
Haha I’m not sad, but yeah, I’d recommend blue streak over accel. You would need the points with mounting plate and condenser. The mechanical and the correct coil for points.
Did you take down your shop tour video? Wanted to share it with a homie.
It’s in the big twin drive drain alignment video. I’ll probably do an updated video of a shop tour by itself.
hell yeah ! thanks man@@codyschoppercorner5727
Doesn't moisture affect points?
Yes it does. That’s why you want to run a points cover at all times.
da ultima single fire eye g0t off ebay($150) & put on my 79 ir0nhead 7or8 yrs ag0 eye wud kn0t trade fur nuthin!! aint had to touch it since we put it 0n.
🤘😎🤘
Go check the price now. 😵💫
@@codyschoppercorner5727
oh im sure but da put it on & 4 get a boo tit part is w0rth eeeery penny in my mind.
✌
A.m.f.shovel stay with points that's what the bike 🚲 was made for !!! If not get the HELL OUT OF SHOVELS ..... YOU ALL CAN STILL US 6 CLINDER Chevy points... 😂
Hahaha. That was one point I forgot to make. Straight six points!
Do not use sandpaper on points , use a points file
Works every time I’ve ever done it. Just clean the dust off with a paper Business card
Sandpaper is fine. No emery paper. The dust can be mildly conductive and the abrasive left behind is ultra fine and won't make the advance unit very happy.
First