I didn’t realise there was a difference in electronic ignition also when it comes to high power coils. I recently bought a 0.7ohm coil. I’m going to buy tbe high power leads from powerspark. I only know my dizzy is electronic and nothing else as it came on tbe car. Will I also need to change that? Or can I check this in anyway to be tbe correct one I need. And also are you around tbe Doncaster area anytime over the coming months for a tune up? I like to fit the correct components ready for you and get this done Iv possible. Many thanks Oh it’s the Crossflow 1.3 You kindly responded to the other day. Thanks
Great video! I am currently having my 1275 A+ rebuilt to 1293 with fast road cam etc and the engine builder has suggested i buy the Aldon fast road dizzy with electronic module and said to get the non vacuum option. Its quite an expensive outlay so i wanted to check it will be ok with the non vacuum dizzy?
Thanks for another great vid. I'm current using an electronic module in a 45D that doesn't have variable dwell. Is there anything to gain by switching it to a variable dwell module that can run a 1.5ohm (or less) coil?
@@ACDodd thank you, yes I understand that. I've always been in the "if it's lit, it's lit" camp but I will experiment with a variable dwell and lower ohm coil to see if there's any improvement in the upper RPMs.
@@user-du8cs8sn2v the real benefit I see is better part throttle torque and the ability to light off leaner mixtures and still generate the same power. Higher rpm should also be noticeable.
Great video. Just confirming that i can run a 1.5ohm coil now meant for a ballast setup after watching this with no other changes except a new coil? I have a non ballast setup so 12v at the coil and a 45d with the powerspark electronic ignition that metions the variable dwell angle (not the high energy one) and a 3ohm coil. Thanks so much keep up the good work.
@@ACDodd I do not think you can run a 1.5 ohm coil on a 12v input as it will burn out. They are intended only for use with a ballest system as all 1.5ohm coils will be described as ballest coils. So need to install a ballest resistor so lower voltage like 9v.
AC: don’t really understand vacuum advance. Does the vacuum increase or decrease under heavy throttle applications? Does the vacuum system work with or against mechanical advance? Why doesn’t the S engine have a vacuum advance? If the vacuum advance isn’t there, has the mechanical advance been modified to compensate? I would greatly appreciate your straight-talking advice on all this. I note both the dizzies you were discussing in this video had vacuum advance systems. Would you use these on a Cooper S motor? Cheers, Will
Vacuum advance is used in conjunction with mechanical advance to add additional ignition advance at low throttle openings and light load running. This increases efficiency and resposiveness and is a must for road driven vehicles where economy is required. When the throttle is opened fully, vacuum drops to near zero and the advance unit retards the ignition back to that delivered solely by the centrifugal advance mechanism. Cooper ‘a’ engines never used vacuum advance because it simply was not needed on an engine that is driven at wide open throttle everywhere
I've got a programmable ignition module which can adjust the dwell. Have you got any idea what the dwell curve is like on the 65D from idle to max dwell? For the moment I've updated it to 20 degrees at idle, and then up to 70 degrees at 4000rpm and above. Currently have a 3 ohm coil
That will be ok for a 3 ohm coil but you need to change the coil and the dwell curve to match. I think it’s about 22-23 at idle and about 45 max to work with a 0.8 ohm coil and no ballast resistor
@@ACDodd thanks! Would does the dwell directly relate to the ohm of the coil - ie the lower the ohm the quicker the dwell? My module is only rated to 1.5 ohm minimum
Currently not available as I have no capacity to make anymore at the moment. The supply I have is only going to be used for those people who book me for tuning work. I can’t keep up with demand, sorry.
Quick question, after watching your videos about dizzy and coils - I have A+1275, non-balasted wiring, with 65D4 dizzy and I found out that my coil is 1.1Ohm. About to swap new plugs (NGK BP6ES) and I was thinking that 0.35mm gap would be too much and 0.32mm could be more optimal for this setup? (Measured my HT leads and they are between 4.7 and 7.5kOhm)
0.35mm is not 0.035”. Change the coil to the correct 0.8ohm unit and run the correct plug gaps. Use lead sets from Powerspark and you will be in the 1 to 3kohm range
@@ACDodd Correct, I meant 0.035", typo there :) I have plan to get correct coil, but it will take some time before it will get to my place and I want to have car available until then. Will have a look at the HT leads as well.
Great video as always. All questions answered. Concise and informative.
Another great video, thanks for sharing the knowledge
So usefull to know!! Awesome content ac😊
Thanks for the informative video as always👍
great that AC Dodd shares his know how ! my mini has dual points and runs hard at 7000
Yes a dual point setup would be ideal
Think im set on a 123 tune dizzy now. Seems like a worthwhile investment especially coupled with a decent Wideband gauge.
Also budget for 123’s high energy coil.
@@ACDodd great, thanks AC
Great vid buddy :)
Would be interested in your dizzy course
Keep an eye on my channel.
Hi AC Dodd, Great video! do you know if powerspark do a recurve service for their distributors?
No I don’t think they do
The dizzy you have in your hands at 4:33 is very similar to mine. How do I know if I have a high energy one, are their any marks to go off?
Take a picture of the dizzy with the cap off and send it to me
I didn’t realise there was a difference in electronic ignition also when it comes to high power coils.
I recently bought a 0.7ohm coil.
I’m going to buy tbe high power leads from powerspark.
I only know my dizzy is electronic and nothing else as it came on tbe car.
Will I also need to change that?
Or can I check this in anyway to be tbe correct one I need.
And also are you around tbe Doncaster area anytime over the coming months for a tune up?
I like to fit the correct components ready for you and get this done Iv possible.
Many thanks
Oh it’s the
Crossflow
1.3
You kindly responded to the other day.
Thanks
You need to match the coil to the ignition module you are using, not all will work with the high energy coil.
Great video! I am currently having my 1275 A+ rebuilt to 1293 with fast road cam etc and the engine builder has suggested i buy the Aldon fast road dizzy with electronic module and said to get the non vacuum option. Its quite an expensive outlay so i wanted to check it will be ok with the non vacuum dizzy?
What’s the spec of the engine?
@ it’s an ex MG Metro 1275 A+ that is being bored out to 1293 with fast road cam + Stage 3 head
@@andyklein5389I need to know the exact cam and rockers?
@@ACDodd I don’t know any more about the cam, the rockers are mini sports 1.3 roller rockers
Thanks for another great vid. I'm current using an electronic module in a 45D that doesn't have variable dwell. Is there anything to gain by switching it to a variable dwell module that can run a 1.5ohm (or less) coil?
Yes that’s the point running a lower ohm coil means you can run more spark power
@@ACDodd thank you, yes I understand that. I've always been in the "if it's lit, it's lit" camp but I will experiment with a variable dwell and lower ohm coil to see if there's any improvement in the upper RPMs.
@@user-du8cs8sn2v the real benefit I see is better part throttle torque and the ability to light off leaner mixtures and still generate the same power. Higher rpm should also be noticeable.
Great video. Just confirming that i can run a 1.5ohm coil now meant for a ballast setup after watching this with no other changes except a new coil? I have a non ballast setup so 12v at the coil and a 45d with the powerspark electronic ignition that metions the variable dwell angle (not the high energy one) and a 3ohm coil. Thanks so much keep up the good work.
Yes as long as it’s variable dwell, a you use 0.025” plug gaps
@@ACDodd I do not think you can run a 1.5 ohm coil on a 12v input as it will burn out. They are intended only for use with a ballest system as all 1.5ohm coils will be described as ballest coils. So need to install a ballest resistor so lower voltage like 9v.
AC: don’t really understand vacuum advance. Does the vacuum increase or decrease under heavy throttle applications? Does the vacuum system work with or against mechanical advance? Why doesn’t the S engine have a vacuum advance? If the vacuum advance isn’t there, has the mechanical advance been modified to compensate? I would greatly appreciate your straight-talking advice on all this. I note both the dizzies you were discussing in this video had vacuum advance systems. Would you use these on a Cooper S motor? Cheers, Will
Vacuum advance is used in conjunction with mechanical advance to add additional ignition advance at low throttle openings and light load running. This increases efficiency and resposiveness and is a must for road driven vehicles where economy is required. When the throttle is opened fully, vacuum drops to near zero and the advance unit retards the ignition back to that delivered solely by the centrifugal advance mechanism. Cooper ‘a’ engines never used vacuum advance because it simply was not needed on an engine that is driven at wide open throttle everywhere
I've got a programmable ignition module which can adjust the dwell. Have you got any idea what the dwell curve is like on the 65D from idle to max dwell? For the moment I've updated it to 20 degrees at idle, and then up to 70 degrees at 4000rpm and above. Currently have a 3 ohm coil
That will be ok for a 3 ohm coil but you need to change the coil and the dwell curve to match. I think it’s about 22-23 at idle and about 45 max to work with a 0.8 ohm coil and no ballast resistor
@@ACDodd thanks! Would does the dwell directly relate to the ohm of the coil - ie the lower the ohm the quicker the dwell?
My module is only rated to 1.5 ohm minimum
@@timsminigarage kind of.
thanks for your expertise. Does the lucas 65dm4 provide TDC infos to an EFI calculator ?
No
How can I buy it???
Currently not available as I have no capacity to make anymore at the moment. The supply I have is only going to be used for those people who book me for tuning work. I can’t keep up with demand, sorry.
Are the 65d electronics replaceable AC? For that matter, do they ever need replacing? Thx
Yes the module is available and replaceable. Yes they do fail, but it is rare
@@ACDodd thanks (who sells them btw?)
@@clairelouiseatkinson minispares and other suppliers
@@ACDodd thanks 🙂
I fitted a complete accuspark to my 2.5 V6..can't get a spark now. worked ok with points... any ideas ?
Contact accuspark
Quick question, after watching your videos about dizzy and coils - I have A+1275, non-balasted wiring, with 65D4 dizzy and I found out that my coil is 1.1Ohm. About to swap new plugs (NGK BP6ES) and I was thinking that 0.35mm gap would be too much and 0.32mm could be more optimal for this setup? (Measured my HT leads and they are between 4.7 and 7.5kOhm)
0.35mm is not 0.035”. Change the coil to the correct 0.8ohm unit and run the correct plug gaps. Use lead sets from
Powerspark and you will be in the 1 to 3kohm range
@@ACDodd Correct, I meant 0.035", typo there :) I have plan to get correct coil, but it will take some time before it will get to my place and I want to have car available until then. Will have a look at the HT leads as well.
Good stuff 👍