Nice video. I know the term pushing and pulling film is often confusing. If you shot 3200 at 800 then you overexposed it by two stops so the lab would need to pull two stops in development not push like you said. Right?
You are correct... It would result in a low contrast photo for those shot at 800 ISO... The opposite would be true for 800 film shot at 3200 and pushed by two stops in the lab, which would result in high contrast... In the end, most people should just shoot 3200 film at 3200...
Yes, he did confuse it. And you can see it very well in the last set. Night at the beach looks like it was shot at daytime. What he did by shooting the 3.200 film at 800, he overexposed it by two stops. Then he pushed it anorher 3 stops, that's a total of +5 stops. This means that he has pushed the film to ISO 25.600, plus overexposed 2 stops. This is how you make night look like day. This film is fantastic!
Now that's how a test roll should be shot! Text, trees, buildings, people, shadows and mixed contrast. Very helpful to me. I have 5 boxes of this stuff. And was gonna expose it as 800 film.
I am so confused. I've watched this video over and over because I'm trying to understand what exposure works best for this film but I do not understand what you're doing. When you push film you under expose the film and compensate in development. So if this was 800 pushed to 3200 you would shoot at 3200 and write +2 on the cart. But it sounds like you are shooting at 800 and writing +2 which is not a thing as far as I know? It's not pushing or pulling? I'm very confused. I know this is an old video but it's actually the only video I can find comparing different exposure tests for this film and I like the images you got but I have no clue what you did to get them.... If you remember would you be able to clarify? Thanks
Yeah I'm confused too, if you shot (metered) at 12800 iso then you ask the lab to push 2 stops to leave it in the developer longer. If you shot at 800 then you'd either say nothing and correct the over exposure in post, or ask the lab to pull 2 stops so it's not in the developer too long.
Was thinking the same thing, either way the images are fantastic! I guess the 3200 images overall had 4 extra stops of overexposure given that he shot at 800 (adding two stops) and then developed at 3200 (adding another two stops)
Wow. I actually have a roll of this film and I'm going to be shooting it under low light conditions and I have to say I'm extremely impressed. The beach shots are grainy but I love it. They look so good. Hopefully you're able to do a similar test with Ilford Delta 3200 as well. Really cool video.
Great video!! I’m now even more excited to shoot this film. What lens did u use for the beach photos? The 4th photo at 7:57 is soooo cool!! The ocean looks like a back drop with that dept of field and angle!
Great video! What do you think the result would be if you shot this at 3200 and push it one stop to 6400? Similar to the 3rd test or would it be less grain cause your pushing it two stops less?
If you have another roll it would be interesting to see what it looks like shot and developed at 800 compared to the ones shot and developed at 3200. It should have a little less noticeable grain than your first set here which looks really good to me. Thanks for the video!
Years ago I was shooting Tmax 3200 at ISO 1000 and developing the film myself using Tmax developer. Unfortunately I don't remember the development time. But my photos turn out great. The secret to avoiding excessive grain is to not over-agitate the film during development. Very slowly and gently invert the development tank twice every minute or so.
I don't understand what you mean when you speak of shooting at 800 and pushing to 3200. When you do this, how do you change your development? Generally, I send mine off, so what do I tell people at the lab.
Thanks for watching Charles. For example - If I shoot at 800 iso and want my film to be pushed 2 stops by my lab, I would generally just write "+2" on my film roll b4 I send it out. Pushed film has increased contrast in the lighter areas of the images and minimal effects on the shadows. Also adds more grain. Hopefully this helped!
This is a new concept to me too.growing up in the 80s and 90s I used to work at walgreens 1 hour photo and always just shot whatever film they had on the shelf.developing there was pretty simple and no one ever asked for anything to be pushed.i wouldn't have know what they were talking about.the machine could make simple adjustments tho so I guess that's what I was doing without knowing it.
Try shooting at ISO 100 or 200 and develop for 3200 time and temp. Famous photographer Jesse Dittmar does his famous celebrities head shots on 120 TMax 3200 and shoots at ISO 100. His book called OVEREXPOSED shows these headshots. Fantastic images.
In terms of stops of light and camera settings, absolutely! It just takes some experimenting to verify which settings are best for each lighting scenario. Thank you for watching!
Nice video. I know the term pushing and pulling film is often confusing. If you shot 3200 at 800 then you overexposed it by two stops so the lab would need to pull two stops in development not push like you said. Right?
You are correct... It would result in a low contrast photo for those shot at 800 ISO...
The opposite would be true for 800 film shot at 3200 and pushed by two stops in the lab, which would result in high contrast...
In the end, most people should just shoot 3200 film at 3200...
Yes, he did confuse it.
And you can see it very well in the last set. Night at the beach looks like it was shot at daytime.
What he did by shooting the 3.200 film at 800, he overexposed it by two stops. Then he pushed it anorher 3 stops, that's a total of +5 stops.
This means that he has pushed the film to ISO 25.600, plus overexposed 2 stops.
This is how you make night look like day.
This film is fantastic!
Now that's how a test roll should be shot! Text, trees, buildings, people, shadows and mixed contrast. Very helpful to me. I have 5 boxes of this stuff. And was gonna expose it as 800 film.
Glad I could help! Happy shooting!
I am so confused. I've watched this video over and over because I'm trying to understand what exposure works best for this film but I do not understand what you're doing.
When you push film you under expose the film and compensate in development. So if this was 800 pushed to 3200 you would shoot at 3200 and write +2 on the cart. But it sounds like you are shooting at 800 and writing +2 which is not a thing as far as I know? It's not pushing or pulling? I'm very confused.
I know this is an old video but it's actually the only video I can find comparing different exposure tests for this film and I like the images you got but I have no clue what you did to get them.... If you remember would you be able to clarify? Thanks
Yeah I'm confused too, if you shot (metered) at 12800 iso then you ask the lab to push 2 stops to leave it in the developer longer. If you shot at 800 then you'd either say nothing and correct the over exposure in post, or ask the lab to pull 2 stops so it's not in the developer too long.
Was thinking the same thing, either way the images are fantastic! I guess the 3200 images overall had 4 extra stops of overexposure given that he shot at 800 (adding two stops) and then developed at 3200 (adding another two stops)
I really like these grainy films because of the atmosphere. You do a great job.
Same! I love how much character the grain essentially adds to the photos. Thanks for watching.
Wow. I actually have a roll of this film and I'm going to be shooting it under low light conditions and I have to say I'm extremely impressed. The beach shots are grainy but I love it. They look so good. Hopefully you're able to do a similar test with Ilford Delta 3200 as well. Really cool video.
Thanks! && Happy shooting! Also, I have a similar video for Delta 3200 at night up on the channel as well! Feel free to check that out.
@@DCaldwellPhotography Thanks so much. I'll check out the Delta 3200 on your channel for sure.
this was exactly what i was looking for! thanks for uploading, also your shirt made me lol
Glad I could help! & Haha - the shirt is one of my favorites. Thanks for watching!
Thank you, very helpful examples!
Wow these are really beautiful Dakota! I love your eye for black and white photography. 😍
Thank you so much!
the beach photos are dope
Appreciate it! && Thank you for watching.
Great video!! I’m now even more excited to shoot this film. What lens did u use for the beach photos? The 4th photo at 7:57 is soooo cool!! The ocean looks like a back drop with that dept of field and angle!
Glad you enjoyed it. I believe it was the Nikon 105mm f2.5. Thanks for watching.
thank u so much for your effort to make this video! looks amazing
Appreciate you watching! 👌🏾👌🏾
Great video! What do you think the result would be if you shot this at 3200 and push it one stop to 6400? Similar to the 3rd test or would it be less grain cause your pushing it two stops less?
If you have another roll it would be interesting to see what it looks like shot and developed at 800 compared to the ones shot and developed at 3200. It should have a little less noticeable grain than your first set here which looks really good to me. Thanks for the video!
Agreed. && I definitely will try it and compare the results. Thanks for watching.
Years ago I was shooting Tmax 3200 at ISO 1000 and developing the film myself using Tmax developer. Unfortunately I don't remember the development time. But my photos turn out great. The secret to avoiding excessive grain is to not over-agitate the film during development. Very slowly and gently invert the development tank twice every minute or so.
Great shots! 👌🏽👍🏽
A very balanced review, thanks.
Thank you for watching!!
great video, very informative!
Thanks for watching
thxs for the vid! I'm getting ready to shoot this film for its grain. This gives me some understanding on how to adjust it.
Glad it could help. Thanks for watching!
Nice video !!! I have expired P3200 I will try to shot 800 iso push to 3200 iso.
800 pushed 3 stops when shot with such low light, I think they came out beautifully.
so the 3rd film you shot at 800, not 6400, and then developed as 6400?
I don't understand what you mean when you speak of shooting at 800 and pushing to 3200. When you do this, how do you change your development? Generally, I send mine off, so what do I tell people at the lab.
Thanks for watching Charles. For example - If I shoot at 800 iso and want my film to be pushed 2 stops by my lab, I would generally just write "+2" on my film roll b4 I send it out.
Pushed film has increased contrast in the lighter areas of the images and minimal effects on the shadows. Also adds more grain. Hopefully this helped!
This is a new concept to me too.growing up in the 80s and 90s I used to work at walgreens 1 hour photo and always just shot whatever film they had on the shelf.developing there was pretty simple and no one ever asked for anything to be pushed.i wouldn't have know what they were talking about.the machine could make simple adjustments tho so I guess that's what I was doing without knowing it.
If you put +2 on your film every lab I know will push two stops above box speed. How you meter is another story.
I should add … they will use manufacturer’s dev charts.
love the shirt
Try shooting at ISO 100 or 200 and develop for 3200 time and temp. Famous photographer Jesse Dittmar does his famous celebrities head shots on 120 TMax 3200 and shoots at ISO 100. His book called OVEREXPOSED shows these headshots. Fantastic images.
I will definitely check it out. Thanks for the suggestion!
I shot this at 1600 due to camera limitations and pushed 1. Excellent results.
1600 is definitely one of its sweet spots. Thanks for watching!
Can this be applied to fuji digital cameras
In terms of stops of light and camera settings, absolutely! It just takes some experimenting to verify which settings are best for each lighting scenario. Thank you for watching!
Please keep it up. You may want to take a look at Promo-SM!!