been buying B&H Photo Video and Audio since the 90s in New York city stores They have the best stores where you can actually use and test the equipment on the floor
I agree. Great information. It was explained just like I expect it from you guys; like your talking to intelligent photo enthusiasts. Well done. I'm about to watch the last installment and I can't wait. I thought I dropped you these lines first. Thanks again.
Hi there. Great teaching. Just wondering. On the back on my lens cap the size is 82mm. What step up size do I need 77-82mm, or just an 82mm? Sorry, I'm a newbie. Thanks!
If you are looking at the lens cap for the lens you wish to apply the filter, then an 82mm filter size should fit. Also check the front inside rim of this lens for the "mm" (millimeter) markings.
The portrait photography portion is really confusing me. If there is too much light being brought in from the low aperture of say 1.4, you say that the shutter speed may not be fast enough. I don't really understand that, because couldn't you just always increase the SS until it becomes dark enough? Say 1/150th is bright, so I could just increase the SS to make the photo darker while also increasing the speed. Adding an ND filter would do the exact opposite, right? It would require me to make the SS even slower to get the proper exposure. Am I not understanding something?
Shooting wide open in extremely bright conditions, like the beach, will overexpose your image. The wider the aperture (f/2.8 or below) the more light comes into your camera. Modern cameras can go as high as 1/4000 to 1/8000 shutter speed or even higher. But, what if the camera doesn't have a high enough shutter speed. If you're really looking to shoot with the nice bokeh, then you need to shoot wide open and use an ND filter to help your camera exposure properly. Now, If your looking get creative and want some motion blur in your images. You would slow down your shutter but then you will overexpose again, assuming you still want to shoot wide open. This is where using an ND filter is useful as well. Hope this helps. :)
Depending on your camera, the fastest shutter speed might still be too bright when shot wide open. So, I'm thinking that he means that it won't be fast enough to allow you to shoot wide open. For example, let's say you're shooting in bright daylight, and using the sunny 16 rule (f/16, SS 1/100, ISO100), and you want to shoot at f/1.4, which is 7 stops of light faster, then you would need a shutter speed of 1/12,800 to have the same exposure. Most cameras don't have a shutter speed that can go that fast, so, using an ND filter would let you shoot within the limits of the camera. Hopefully that wasn't too confusing!
Thanks for the great tut but I noticed that your Image Stabiliser was still on. I thought it was best practise to turn that off if your on a tripod and long exposure?
+Justin Barkby If there is a shot with the camera on the tripod with the IS on, this is likely an error. At the end of the video, in the ND Filter Checklist, Larry does mention that image stabilization should be turned off when on a tripod. *Christina* askbh@bandh.com
Marc C they shut the autofocus as they can't get focus after the ND applied which dims the viewfinder that's why the pre focus before applying the ND. The IS motor is generally advised to be shut as long as you shoot on a tripod. The motor is always in motion to compensate for jerky motion of handheld cameras whereas on a tripod it keeps moving thinking there's motion thus ruining your shot. hope it helped.
You turn off the autofocus to prevent the camera from trying to focus again. When you are using a very strong (=dark) ND filter the AF won't be able to focus because it is too dark. You would end up with a wrong focus point. When you keep the IS activated while using a tripod, it would try to compensate for camera movement. As you are using a tripod the camera doesn't move at all so the IS would introduce unwanted camera movement. I hope this helps. :)
Marc C The portion of the video at the beginning which dealt with shooting moving water in daylight involves slow/long exposures and a tripod. There are several technical factors to consider in this type of shoot to make sure your images come out nice and you don't waste your day on a bad shoot. Due to the fact that you're going to be doing a long exposure, it is necessary to turn IS/stabilization off. Stabilization features in cameras should only be used when shooting handheld. If you turn the IS feature on when it is mounted to a tripod the IS mechanisms (a gyroscope) can actually cause motion/vibration within the camera, which results in the camera essentially being confused and creates a loop of stabilization-which moves the camera. Long exposures are done on a tripod specifically to eliminate any and all motion the camera may experience so that the image will be as sharp as possible. So when shooting with a tripod, turn the IS off. As far as turning off the autofocus after establishing your shot goes, this is done also to prevent the camera from potentially trying to refocus when you fire the shutter remotely. When AF is on and one uses a remote trigger, a half-depression of the trigger deploys the autofocus. Since we've gone out of our way to take measures to put a very dark filter on the lens, it would confuse the AF sensor and essentially ruin the image. So pre-focus and pre-compose, then put the filter on, then turn the AF off. - Yossi
+gcerpa1980 Sure, why not? But you give-up a degree of control using the self-timer. And remember that a self-timer may add a bit of vibration as well. Who wants to wait for the timer to count down anyway? >Mark
I just got my first DSLR not too long ago. My camera has wifi connection which allows me to connect it to my phone and take a picture from my phone rather than using a remote. Would this be the same as using a remote or would it somehow degrade my photos? Thanks!
It should be the same as using a remote shutter release to trigger the camera. I can’t see how using the phone to trigger the camera could degrade the images. *Christina* AskRUclips@bhphoto.com
When I do night photography, I have to use the Bulb setting to get past the 30 second max on the camera. The wireless feature of my phone doesn't allow Bulb use. So, in that instance, I do have to use the wired remote.
I might also add, if after I get my WiFi connection going, sometimes it drops connection even when the camera and phone are right next to each-other. Definitely loses connection if I walk away from my rig more than 10 feet away and have my phone with me.
+MephistoRolling - When shooting on a tripod, you would want to shut off image stabilization. If you leave it on, the lens/camera will still be looking for vibration to compensate for and can end up causing vibrations/camera shake. As for covering the viewfinder, this would be recommended when shooting extremely long exposures, especially when there is strong light behind the camera, to help reduce the possibility of light leaks. *Christina* AskPhoto@bhphoto.com
+blindingsun If your camera supports "live view mode" then the mirror will lock up automatically. If you set the mirror lock-up mode from the camera's menu, do not forget to turn off mirror lock-up mode before you go back to normal, faster shutter speeds. I have found leaving mirror lock-up mode on results in having to press the shutter button twice.
what is the science behind sensor size and depth-of-field?...i.e. why does a full-frame sensor render a different DOF than an apsc sensor...and why does a medium format sensor render a shallower DOF than a FF sensor?
deltadave44 For a given aperture, the depth of field will decrease as the sensor size increases (considering using the same composition of subject and its relative size and difference and distance). The larger the sensor, the closer one must get to the subject or alternatively use a longer focal length in order to achieve the same composition. Essentially when shooting on larger sensors this would require one to shoot at progressively smaller apertures in order to maintain the same depth of field. - Yossi
Ive had problem with the variable nd filters having a cross or x like effect once set past like 6 stops . is that not normal ? or why wouldn't everyone just get a variable instead of the solid filters?
Ethan Elliott What you're experiencing is not uncommon with Variable ND filters and still photography. There are plenty of variables that can cause it. Things such as interference/conflict between the two layers of polarization on the Variable ND filters, any type of moiré that may occur in the image, and cameras with and without optical low pass filters ? any combinations of these variables can effect the shot and cause this phenomena you're experiencing. To some degree it comes to trial and error as to which Variable ND filter selection works best for your work and your gear. In general I'd more recommend a variable ND for video work over still work. This is a situation where using a non-variable ND filter would be a better tool of choice for the shot. ? Yossi
It’s a good idea to find focus before attaching the ND filter. All DSLRs require a certain amount of light in order for their AF system to function. While some DSLRs are better with finding focus in lower light, it is still possible for the focus to be off when you are restricting the amount of light coming through the lens (especially if you are using fairly dark ND filters for longer shutter speeds). So that the camera doesn’t hunt for focus after you had attached the ND filter, you would turn of AF after you had found the focus for the shot, before attaching the filter. *Christina* AskRUclips@bhphoto.com
Apparently I'm an idiot today. I shoot mostly street photography these days, but very fast lenses. Sometimes I like to keep wide-open apertures and I run out of shutter speed. So I bought some ND filters. Now I don't know why.
If you have a Wifi equipped camera like the Canon 6D then you go forgo buying a remote. Yup, there is an app for that. You can use your smart phone for remote shooting. Canon gives away the app.
Léonardo Ciampo This is the tripod we used:www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=864568&gclid=CIjgs5fi-8YCFQ6RHwodtmsHNQ&is=REG&m=Y&Q=&A=details
IM newbie but ND filters are supposed to be "neutral" color. Not add or take away color , so maybe you have some style or other settings in the camera that is playing with your color. Sounds also like some kind of automatic white balance problem. Look at WB settings. I just watched the next video in the series. Seems only in "theory" you can not add or take away colors. Try constant density filters which are supposed to be designed and manufactured better for color protection, and/or play with your settings again, even white balance.
I shoot primarily video, and use ND filters religiously. I've always used the appropriate filter for the situation; removing and replacing individual filters. The filters that I've always used are numbered, so I know exactly what it is. I dial in to the cinema 180 settings: 24fps, 100 ISO, 1/50fps and compensate with a filter. I love the concept of a variable filter so I don't have to unscrew and screw a new one on for every scenario, and recently purchased this from B&H www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1014983-REG/bower_fn58_58mm_variable_neutral_density.html It says it's 2-8 stops. I notice that the ring has 18 indicators. I'm not sure how that works out mathematically. For example, how many clicks from the very lightest would I go to be at ND16 which is my go to for outdoors? Or ND8, 4, etc? Is there a formula based on the ring indicators?
That filter will reduce the light from 2-8 stops, but the markings on the ring are purely a reference point and do not represent an actual f-stop. It is best not to adjust the filter to the highest density to avoid an ‘X’ pattern from appearing in the shot. This is a common occurrence when two polarizing foils cross one another.
The video is about filters not cameras. I'm sure there's a lot Nikon videos out there to serve your need to watch a video with a Nikon. Like it really makes a huge difference lol
If you don't have a remote shutter release, use the self timer.
been buying B&H Photo Video and Audio since the 90s in New York city stores They have the best stores where you can actually use and test the equipment on the floor
Wow you are born to be a tutor
I agree. Great information. It was explained just like I expect it from you guys; like your talking to intelligent photo enthusiasts. Well done. I'm about to watch the last installment and I can't wait. I thought I dropped you these lines first. Thanks again.
Great video .,,,, Awesome 👏 information , very valuable ,,, highly appreciated !! 🌷🌷🌸🌸🌸😍😍⭐️⭐️⭐️👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi there. Great teaching. Just wondering. On the back on my lens cap the size is 82mm. What step up size do I need 77-82mm, or just an 82mm? Sorry, I'm a newbie. Thanks!
If you are looking at the lens cap for the lens you wish to apply the filter, then an 82mm filter size should fit. Also check the front inside rim of this lens for the "mm" (millimeter) markings.
great free info, thanks B&H
Do you recommend turning off image stabilization if NOT using a tripod but still using ND filtering?
The portrait photography portion is really confusing me.
If there is too much light being brought in from the low aperture of say 1.4, you say that the shutter speed may not be fast enough. I don't really understand that, because couldn't you just always increase the SS until it becomes dark enough? Say 1/150th is bright, so I could just increase the SS to make the photo darker while also increasing the speed. Adding an ND filter would do the exact opposite, right? It would require me to make the SS even slower to get the proper exposure.
Am I not understanding something?
Shooting wide open in extremely bright conditions, like the beach, will overexpose your image. The wider the aperture (f/2.8 or below) the more light comes into your camera. Modern cameras can go as high as 1/4000 to 1/8000 shutter speed or even higher. But, what if the camera doesn't have a high enough shutter speed. If you're really looking to shoot with the nice bokeh, then you need to shoot wide open and use an ND filter to help your camera exposure properly.
Now, If your looking get creative and want some motion blur in your images. You would slow down your shutter but then you will overexpose again, assuming you still want to shoot wide open. This is where using an ND filter is useful as well.
Hope this helps. :)
Depending on your camera, the fastest shutter speed might still be too bright when shot wide open. So, I'm thinking that he means that it won't be fast enough to allow you to shoot wide open. For example, let's say you're shooting in bright daylight, and using the sunny 16 rule (f/16, SS 1/100, ISO100), and you want to shoot at f/1.4, which is 7 stops of light faster, then you would need a shutter speed of 1/12,800 to have the same exposure. Most cameras don't have a shutter speed that can go that fast, so, using an ND filter would let you shoot within the limits of the camera.
Hopefully that wasn't too confusing!
Thanks for the great tut but I noticed that your Image Stabiliser was still on. I thought it was best practise to turn that off if your on a tripod and long exposure?
+Justin Barkby If there is a shot with the camera on the tripod with the IS on, this is likely an error. At the end of the video, in the ND Filter Checklist, Larry does mention that image stabilization should be turned off when on a tripod. *Christina* askbh@bandh.com
Best information and i just felt need to subscribe.
Great information Thanks B&H and Kelbey
Why do you shut off the IS and auto focus after you get focus? Thanks
Marc C they shut the autofocus as they can't get focus after the ND applied which dims the viewfinder that's why the pre focus before applying the ND. The IS motor is generally advised to be shut as long as you shoot on a tripod. The motor is always in motion to compensate for jerky motion of handheld cameras whereas on a tripod it keeps moving thinking there's motion thus ruining your shot. hope it helped.
You turn off the autofocus to prevent the camera from trying to focus again. When you are using a very strong (=dark) ND filter the AF won't be able to focus because it is too dark. You would end up with a wrong focus point.
When you keep the IS activated while using a tripod, it would try to compensate for camera movement. As you are using a tripod the camera doesn't move at all so the IS would introduce unwanted camera movement.
I hope this helps. :)
So the camera doesn't try and focus again when the shutter is pressed as it might struggle with the filter on.
Marc C The portion of the video at the beginning which dealt with shooting moving water in daylight involves slow/long exposures and a tripod. There are several technical factors to consider in this type of shoot to make sure your images come out nice and you don't waste your day on a bad shoot.
Due to the fact that you're going to be doing a long exposure, it is necessary to turn IS/stabilization off. Stabilization features in cameras should only be used when shooting handheld. If you turn the IS feature on when it is mounted to a tripod the IS mechanisms (a gyroscope) can actually cause motion/vibration within the camera, which results in the camera essentially being confused and creates a loop of stabilization-which moves the camera. Long exposures are done on a tripod specifically to eliminate any and all motion the camera may experience so that the image will be as sharp as possible. So when shooting with a tripod, turn the IS off.
As far as turning off the autofocus after establishing your shot goes, this is done also to prevent the camera from potentially trying to refocus when you fire the shutter remotely. When AF is on and one uses a remote trigger, a half-depression of the trigger deploys the autofocus. Since we've gone out of our way to take measures to put a very dark filter on the lens, it would confuse the AF sensor and essentially ruin the image. So pre-focus and pre-compose, then put the filter on, then turn the AF off. - Yossi
Micheal G I didn't know that about the IS motor. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial, thank you sir
Wouldn't it be the same using a 10sec countdown self timer to trigger the camera instead of a remote shuttter?
+gcerpa1980 Sure, why not? But you give-up a degree of control using the self-timer. And remember that a self-timer may add a bit of vibration as well. Who wants to wait for the timer to count down anyway? >Mark
Thanks for a very helpful video.
I just got my first DSLR not too long ago. My camera has wifi connection which allows me to connect it to my phone and take a picture from my phone rather than using a remote. Would this be the same as using a remote or would it somehow degrade my photos? Thanks!
It should be the same as using a remote shutter release to trigger the camera. I can’t see how using the phone to trigger the camera could degrade the images. *Christina* AskRUclips@bhphoto.com
When I do night photography, I have to use the Bulb setting to get past the 30 second max on the camera. The wireless feature of my phone doesn't allow Bulb use. So, in that instance, I do have to use the wired remote.
I might also add, if after I get my WiFi connection going, sometimes it drops connection even when the camera and phone are right next to each-other. Definitely loses connection if I walk away from my rig more than 10 feet away and have my phone with me.
why would you cover the viewfinder and why turn off image stabilisation? just curious what impacts they have on the picture.
+MephistoRolling - When shooting on a tripod, you would want to shut off image stabilization. If you leave it on, the
lens/camera will still be looking for vibration to compensate for and can end up causing vibrations/camera shake. As
for covering the viewfinder, this would be recommended when shooting extremely long exposures, especially when there is strong light behind the camera, to help reduce the possibility of light leaks.
*Christina* AskPhoto@bhphoto.com
Very useful stuff. Thanks.
Going for the next video.
Don't forget mirror lock up on long exposures.
+canturgan what's the reasoning behind this?
blindingsun
To eliminate vibration.
+blindingsun If your camera supports "live view mode" then the mirror will lock up automatically. If you set the mirror lock-up mode from the camera's menu, do not forget to turn off mirror lock-up mode before you go back to normal, faster shutter speeds. I have found leaving mirror lock-up mode on results in having to press the shutter button twice.
If the cam is a mirrorless?
Marcus Vinnas Then mirror lock up is irrelevant.
Nice,tnx
what is the science behind sensor size and depth-of-field?...i.e. why does a full-frame sensor render a different DOF than an apsc sensor...and why does a medium format sensor render a shallower DOF than a FF sensor?
deltadave44 For a given aperture, the depth of field will decrease as the sensor size increases (considering using the same composition of subject and its relative size and difference and distance). The larger the sensor, the closer one must get to the subject or alternatively use a longer focal length in order to achieve the same composition. Essentially when shooting on larger sensors this would require one to shoot at progressively smaller apertures in order to maintain the same depth of field. - Yossi
thanks...that makes sense
Ive had problem with the variable nd filters having a cross or x like effect once set past like 6 stops . is that not normal ? or why wouldn't everyone just get a variable instead of the solid filters?
Ethan Elliott What you're experiencing is not uncommon with Variable ND filters and still photography. There are plenty of variables that can cause it. Things such as interference/conflict between the two layers of polarization on the Variable ND filters, any type of moiré that may occur in the image, and cameras with and without optical low pass filters ? any combinations of these variables can effect the shot and cause this phenomena you're experiencing. To some degree it comes to trial and error as to which Variable ND filter selection works best for your work and your gear. In general I'd more recommend a variable ND for video work over still work. This is a situation where using a non-variable ND filter would be a better tool of choice for the shot. ? Yossi
Thank you for your response . I have both a variable and solid 10 stop now .
don't need to turn off autofocus if you've set your camera up to focus on back button....
Very helpful.
My mind was just blown.
Can the remote be a wireless one?
Yes...
Awesome!
I'm confused why do you have to turn off Autofocus when you dial in the Variable ND? Great video!
It’s a good idea to find focus before attaching the ND filter. All DSLRs require a certain amount of light in order for their AF system to function. While some DSLRs are better with finding focus in lower light, it is still possible for the focus to be off when you are restricting the amount of light coming through the lens (especially if you are using fairly dark ND filters for longer shutter speeds). So that the camera doesn’t hunt for focus after you had attached the ND filter, you would turn of AF after you had found the focus for the shot, before attaching the filter. *Christina* AskRUclips@bhphoto.com
It's like trying to autofocus in a dark room. You're just not gonna get focus properly because the camera can't see anything.
Could this be achieved with back button focus also? Thereby eliminating the need to switch off AF?
Hi B&H Photo, Could you make a review of the Rotolight NEO? Thanks
ACF DREAMS
We do have a video about Rotolight NEO On-Camera LED
Light from NAB 2015.
Here is the link:
ruclips.net/video/Cr5Dnm015YM/видео.html
Apparently I'm an idiot today. I shoot mostly street photography these days, but very fast lenses. Sometimes I like to keep wide-open apertures and I run out of shutter speed. So I bought some ND filters. Now I don't know why.
What happens to the screen on that camera in the end of the video?
Samuel Monte-Arrieta It shows you when an area of highlights is blown out. It will blink to let you know they are blown
d no
No, I mean at the end of the vídeo when they use liveview you can see a line at the top like the sensor were malfunctioning.
If you have a Wifi equipped camera like the Canon 6D then you go forgo buying a remote. Yup, there is an app for that. You can use your smart phone for remote shooting. Canon gives away the app.
what tripod is this? 0:55
Léonardo Ciampo
This is the tripod we used:www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=864568&gclid=CIjgs5fi-8YCFQ6RHwodtmsHNQ&is=REG&m=Y&Q=&A=details
MY GUY!
When I put on my ND filters, the whole photo turns into a blue-ish color. How can I prevent this? I am using ND filters from Digital Goja btw.
Skid I havent heard of that brand, may be bc they are low quality, If you want a good quality filter I'd reccomend spending $100 +
IM newbie but ND filters are supposed to be "neutral" color. Not add or take away color , so maybe you have some style or other settings in the camera that is playing with your color. Sounds also like some kind of automatic white balance problem. Look at WB settings.
I just watched the next video in the series. Seems only in "theory" you can not add or take away colors. Try constant density filters which are supposed to be designed and manufactured better for color protection, and/or play with your settings again, even white balance.
Ouch, that Schneider filter is almost as expensive as some lenses!
I shoot primarily video, and use ND filters religiously. I've always used the appropriate filter for the situation; removing and replacing individual filters. The filters that I've always used are numbered, so I know exactly what it is. I dial in to the cinema 180 settings: 24fps, 100 ISO, 1/50fps and compensate with a filter. I love the concept of a variable filter so I don't have to unscrew and screw a new one on for every scenario, and recently purchased this from B&H
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1014983-REG/bower_fn58_58mm_variable_neutral_density.html
It says it's 2-8 stops. I notice that the ring has 18 indicators. I'm not sure how that works out mathematically. For example, how many clicks from the very lightest would I go to be at ND16 which is my go to for outdoors? Or ND8, 4, etc? Is there a formula based on the ring indicators?
That filter will reduce the light from 2-8 stops, but the markings on the ring are purely a reference point and do not represent an actual f-stop. It is best not to adjust the filter to the highest density to avoid an ‘X’ pattern from appearing in the shot. This is a common occurrence when two polarizing foils cross one another.
She forgot to turn the image stabilizer off
Is B&H sponsored by Canon (Not a single Nikon about)
Much more Canon users = more money
The video is about filters not cameras. I'm sure there's a lot Nikon videos out there to serve your need to watch a video with a Nikon. Like it really makes a huge difference lol