I'm not crazy about the visible "lift" from backboard to paper, so I make the white borders on the paper itself. But I haven't upgraded to dry mounting so I can't see firsthand if I like the "inset" print look. I assume you don't do paper borders because your easel blades might not be square. I have a guide so I can adjust them square but the blade edges have neglible imperfections that I don't worry about. On a side note I really appreciate this series. It's helped me to try and get my work more professional looking. There's a million film channels, fewer darkroom ones, and almost none for mounting and finishing. Thank you for this!
Glad to make the series. I know it will not initially get as many views but think long term it might help out a lot of people with no real direction to go when looking to present their images. My easels are pretty good but a trimmed edge is just cleaner looking in my opinion. But that is also getting pretty picky 😀
precioso y muy meticuloso como todo tu trabajo me encanta ha quedado expectacular admiro todo lo que realizas me paso muchos ratos viendo tus videos, soy un humilde aficionado ,un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
That’s a great demo. I’d just add that you don’t need to spend $$$ for a photo dry mount press. There are heat presses designed for attaching transfers to T-shirts that are way cheaper. I recently bought one new with a 20”x20” platen for £325($400) that does exactly the same job as the Bienfang. Also hobby tacking irons for model making are cheaper than the photo versions. Really enjoy your videos Matthew.
Thanks! I always wondered about the t- shirt presses. That is about what I paid for my press used with shipping. All Be it it is old and dirty so a new option would be nicer 👍
I leave photo in the press and put the books on top there, this way you don't disturb the sandwich... seems to work. I've been looking for 1/4" aluminum plate would be ideal to add weight and cool it quickly.
Yes, I keep kicking myself I had the chance to buy the seal plate with handles for like 20 bucks locally years back and for whatever reason did not buy it… Room is an issue for me as well so leaving it in the press is often the default. Not printing a ton of volume any way. Like the idea of an Aluminum plate. 👍
Another approach is to mount prints to 2-ply board to flatten, then hinge-mount or use corners to attach to bottom matte. I find that, while flat is not exactly what I'd call these mounted prints, despite pre-heating, they do indeed stay flat under the window matte. I only print to 11x14, but others who print 16x20 and larger also use this technique. Regarding flatteners, I use a piece of formica-laminated kitchen cabinet that someone down the block was tossing. It's even light gray. My neighbor cut it in half and we screwed the two, approx. 16x20 pieces together to make a 1.5-inc-thick piece for extra weight -- probably overkill, since the underlying board is thick and heavy. I got a cabinet handle from the hardware store and mounted it.
Oh man... I wish I knew as well. I have had these for years (there is no tags or symbols on them) My father was a Pharmacist and he would sometimes have to mix drugs in a controlled enviroment at the hospital using what I picture to belike a fume hood with rubber sleeves ( a sterile enviroment I believe. These were the gloves they would have to use when mixing the prescriptions. They were thrown out after each use. So he brought them home and saved them for me. He has since retired and I lost my hook up... Maybe a google search for Pharmacy tech gloves or the like might find some? The other thinner pairs that I have are just from Adorama or something like that. They work well but the drug gloves are far superior. I will have to find some at some point as the pairs I have will wear out. If I (or anyone else) can find a good set I will let everyone know!
Very helpful for getting started, though I will try to find pre-cut mattes to start, and use those photo corners. Q: what is ATG? Also what is your brush? Thanks!
I noticed the other day that boss man Michael kenna sells his prints dry mounted . I've been told not to dry mount for archival reasons etc but surely MK knows his stuff !!?
Hey Austen, hope you are healing up nicely 👍 So, from an aesthetic’s perspective I much prefer dry mounted prints. The trimmed edges just look clean and satisfying. We are after all finishing our prints so to me it is the best way. If you use archival rag mat the mount should not matter, and further with the buffermount tissue I use can be reversed. Though I will not and never intend to do this myself…. Seems to daunting. Smaller prints will look fine unmounted but 11x14 and larger always look better drymounted ( that is assuming one does not muck up the process ). It’s like the toning process all over again…. Very easy to wreck a great image. Practice required to do a good job. But when done right nothing comes close aesthetically. I guess the archival part can be debated but like you mentioned Kenna, Adams, etc…
8:50 desert spoon in boiling water then shaken off also works as a makeshift tacking iron
Never thought of that 🤘
Great job! I haven't dry-mounted any prints for a long time, but I have some I'd like to do. This video was a terrific refresher. Thanks!
Thank you!
I'm not crazy about the visible "lift" from backboard to paper, so I make the white borders on the paper itself. But I haven't upgraded to dry mounting so I can't see firsthand if I like the "inset" print look. I assume you don't do paper borders because your easel blades might not be square. I have a guide so I can adjust them square but the blade edges have neglible imperfections that I don't worry about.
On a side note I really appreciate this series. It's helped me to try and get my work more professional looking. There's a million film channels, fewer darkroom ones, and almost none for mounting and finishing. Thank you for this!
I'm also relieved to see you use photo corners. I thought I was weird using glue and corners much the same way.
Glad to make the series. I know it will not initially get as many views but think long term it might help out a lot of people with no real direction to go when looking to present their images.
My easels are pretty good but a trimmed edge is just cleaner looking in my opinion. But that is also getting pretty picky 😀
Thank you for doing this great series!
Glad you enjoy it!
precioso y muy meticuloso como todo tu trabajo me encanta ha quedado expectacular admiro todo lo que realizas me paso muchos ratos viendo tus videos, soy un humilde aficionado ,un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
Thank you!!!
That’s a great demo. I’d just add that you don’t need to spend $$$ for a photo dry mount press. There are heat presses designed for attaching transfers to T-shirts that are way cheaper. I recently bought one new with a 20”x20” platen for £325($400) that does exactly the same job as the Bienfang. Also hobby tacking irons for model making are cheaper than the photo versions.
Really enjoy your videos Matthew.
Thanks! I always wondered about the t- shirt presses. That is about what I paid for my press used with shipping. All Be it it is old and dirty so a new option would be nicer 👍
Do you have a recommendation for which cotton board looks best with ilford fb paper? (forgive me if i missed that in the video)
I leave photo in the press and put the books on top there, this way you don't disturb the sandwich... seems to work. I've been looking for 1/4" aluminum plate would be ideal to add weight and cool it quickly.
Yes, I keep kicking myself I had the chance to buy the seal plate with handles for like 20 bucks locally years back and for whatever reason did not buy it…
Room is an issue for me as well so leaving it in the press is often the default. Not printing a ton of volume any way.
Like the idea of an Aluminum plate. 👍
Another approach is to mount prints to 2-ply board to flatten, then hinge-mount or use corners to attach to bottom matte. I find that, while flat is not exactly what I'd call these mounted prints, despite pre-heating, they do indeed stay flat under the window matte. I only print to 11x14, but others who print 16x20 and larger also use this technique.
Regarding flatteners, I use a piece of formica-laminated kitchen cabinet that someone down the block was tossing. It's even light gray. My neighbor cut it in half and we screwed the two, approx. 16x20 pieces together to make a 1.5-inc-thick piece for extra weight -- probably overkill, since the underlying board is thick and heavy. I got a cabinet handle from the hardware store and mounted it.
Ingenious way to weight the prints👍 I have to build something and you have given me some ideas 🙏
Great video series Matt…I keep looking at the gloves you use that appear very comfortable…what brand are they? Thanks for sharing… Cheers..
Oh man... I wish I knew as well. I have had these for years (there is no tags or symbols on them) My father was a Pharmacist and he would sometimes have to mix drugs in a controlled enviroment at the hospital using what I picture to belike a fume hood with rubber sleeves ( a sterile enviroment I believe. These were the gloves they would have to use when mixing the prescriptions. They were thrown out after each use. So he brought them home and saved them for me. He has since retired and I lost my hook up...
Maybe a google search for Pharmacy tech gloves or the like might find some? The other thinner pairs that I have are just from Adorama or something like that. They work well but the drug gloves are far superior. I will have to find some at some point as the pairs I have will wear out.
If I (or anyone else) can find a good set I will let everyone know!
@@Distphoto Thanks anyway Matt…I’ll keep looking. I’ve tried three different brands, and pretty much all are crap… one time use and they are gone!
I got one question on signing your photos. What kind of Pen do you use when signing on PE Paper? I want something that lasts. :)
Very helpful for getting started, though I will try to find pre-cut mattes to start, and use those photo corners. Q: what is ATG? Also what is your brush? Thanks!
ATG is a two sided adhesive. It comes in rolls and you can use a gun to apply (though not necessary) Thanks for watching!
I noticed the other day that boss man Michael kenna sells his prints dry mounted . I've been told not to dry mount for archival reasons etc but surely MK knows his stuff !!?
Hey Austen, hope you are healing up nicely 👍
So, from an aesthetic’s perspective I much prefer dry mounted prints. The trimmed edges just look clean and satisfying.
We are after all finishing our prints so to me it is the best way. If you use archival rag mat the mount should not matter, and further with the buffermount tissue I use can be reversed. Though I will not and never intend to do this myself…. Seems to daunting.
Smaller prints will look fine unmounted but 11x14 and larger always look better drymounted ( that is assuming one does not muck up the process ).
It’s like the toning process all over again…. Very easy to wreck a great image. Practice required to do a good job.
But when done right nothing comes close aesthetically. I guess the archival part can be debated but like you mentioned Kenna, Adams, etc…
You should tack the corners, underneath the print, you never put heat on the print, (save for the dry mount press of course)
This is how I learned and have Never had an issue…
But if it works for you then by all means do it.
Thanks Matt ( pun not intended!)
Thank you Austen!
👍👍👍
Thank you 😊
No reason not to dry mount your lith prints, I always do, just be careful as you are already.
I have and do… but I always am a bit more nervous 😬