In 1974 Tom Hornbein (RIP) gave my high school class a presentation of his first ascent of the West Ridge in 1963. The next year i began my climbing career summiting Dragontail Peak in the Washington Cascades. Still climbing almost daily today at 67👍
Chris Bonnington, Joe Tasker, Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, Peter Boardman -- a Hall Of Fame of British 70s-80s mountaineers. A breakthrough climb on Everest well before the commercialization of the mountain -- with an extraordinary overnight bivouac by Haston and Scott near the south summit after reaching the top. A bivouac slightly higher than the one done by the American expedition in 1963. Overnight bivouacs on Everest at that height are almost sure death. The fact Scott and Haston survived it with little to no frostbite was a miracle. This documentary and the photo of Doug Scott climbing the snow-covered Hillary Step were the primary instigators of my own fascination with Everest. I was told the best way to start on a journey to Everest was to first learn rock climbing and then move onto snow and ice. Problem was, I was living in New York City. But soon I found boulders in Central Park, began learning the basics and eventually graduated to the steep and historic cliffs of the Gunks and other climbing areas in New England. Years later, after reading of the deaths of so many of my mountaineering heros like Boardman and Tasker on the north ridge, I was convinced I might want to stick with the rock climbing I was enjoying and some easier mountaineering -- and pass on a career of ascending 8000 meter peaks. The growing commercialization of Everest (and a family and a career) has now almost fully crushed my dreams of becoming a Himalayan mountaineer. But watching this documentary stirs those old feelings -- a dream lost -- but a dream worth dreaming -- and one that opened a door and gave me years of wonderful climbing experiences. It also reminds me of what Everest used to be. A place for real climbers. People who were passionate about climbing and not merely the bragging rights of having stood on the highest point on Earth.
But it was the actual cliff rock climbers who fixed the ropes for the mountaineers to get up that face. What an epic story. I wish I could have been with these guys even just to go camping with them at base camp. I’d have camped and fly fished them beautiful rivers.
back when people still respected Everest but not the Sherpas....5 lbs pay then 10 pounds pay or 25.00 dollars to carry climbers stuff to camp 6 near the top.
I met Doug Scott at the Banff Mountain Film Festival about 30 years ago. He signed my books, we chatted and I asked if I could have a photo with him. He quipped "I'd rather have a photo with the lady you are with." LOL. RIP big guy.
@@marine4lyfe85 Yes of course ... many more people `just `trek to base camp than go on to climb the mountain. You need to be quite fit though .... base camp is at about 5400 meters ... much higher than any mountain in Europe.
Finally something I haven't seen! I think I've watched every video on RUclips about climbing mountains over 8000m! Thanks David Snow for educating the masses on the history of Mount Everest! Great video!
@@Blobby192 Let's be REALLY honest. The hubris you express, stating that watching videos is in any way sufficient for ascending Everest via. a new route running through the rock band, is a good way to die.
Do you have a list of the really good ones? Much appreciated! I've recently found myself addicted to these documentaries. Ever since hearing the story and seeing the pictures of Green Boots, I've been watching everything I can about these mountains and the expeditions to climb them. It's utterly fascinating to me, probably because I know I'll never do it and I don't quite understand what drives someone to take such risks. I'm slowly starting to get it though.
I'm proud to say l knew Doug Scott.( He was my teacher in Nottingham ) He took us climbing all over Britain especially The Highlands of Scotland. I still go there every year. And always talk about him to anybody who would listen. ( And of course the Scot. Dogle Haston )
Yes, we were kind, considerate and there was no reason to raise your voice. Thanks for noticing. Living was easy back then and people kept their word. ❤
Enjoy very much these earlier films on the expeditions, the manner in which they were filmed, and narrated, with minimum musical soundtrack. Thank you, @DavidSnowClimbing for posting these gems!
As a young climber in the 70s, I enjoyed the story of this expedition as told in Sir Bonnington's book over and over again. While never going to the higher mountains, I threw myself into rock and ice climbing in New England and have climbed and guided in these old hills ever since. I never knew there was so much footage from this expedition and have thoroughly enjoyed this!
i absolutely LOVED this video, not only because I was 5 years old in 1975 but also it reminds me of my dad also loving to climb and me following him around just about everywhere to this day I love climbing, thank you Dad🥰
Always enjoy watching this one. The success in 1975 sort of signified the end of large siege tactics expedition style climbing for the British Golden generation of climbers.
Read the book. Everest the hard way. Never knew this video existed, read the book twice. Really takes you there, well as close as I’ll ever get. Amazing adventures they had.
Thank you for sharing this, David. This is a great story, from the 1975 British Expedition. The Southwest Face Route, my God what a challenging route. Few choose to do it even today. If you are successful you eventually wind up near the South Summit and the Hillary Step, like the more travelled and easier routes. What I don't understand from this video is what descent route the successful summiteers took back down that caused the deaths. If anyone has info on those descents from this expedition we would appreciate that insight. As we all know, the descent is so much more challenging than the ascent in many cases. If some attempted to descent back down the Southwest Face that would be significant news. Great video and great history.
They descended the same route as was ascended. Ropes were already fixed for the later summit groups via the gully leading up to the south summit. And there was only one death,, Mick Burke and he most certainly fell off the summit ridge before reaching the fixed ropes because it was getting dark and a spindrift storm. Pete and petumba waited at s summit for burke until they finally had to go for their own safety and barely found the oxygen tanks marking the top of the fixed ropes themselves,,, so its nearly certain burke never made it to the fixed ropes.
This is real - if scary - mountaineering. Sad that many - most - of these real climbers didn't live old. Messner was a rarity and he almost got killed twice.
Four Slovak climbers climbed the Bonnington route alpine style without oxygen in 1988, one of them made it to the summit, while other three made it to south summit. Sadly, they all perished during the descent being nearly blind after three days spent in death zone.
Amazing to see at least one of the climbing members was a smoker. Would be hard enough on a fully functional set of lungs, let alone lungs impeded by smoking damage.
I remember Chris bonnington in the 60s on the TV on Sunday afternoons climbing ,and I wasn't over excited about it ,but I can't get enough of these mountain climbing videos and this has been one of the best if not the best ,I'm addicted to them and start off watching them in bed every night until I fall asleep His climbing looked very difficult when he did it on t v But Everest and the rest of these mountains look as they are much EASIER but dangerous with the weather and ice I couldn't imagine those who climb Everest could climb those that bonnington climbed on Sunday afternoons ,they didn't have the snow and ice and very bad weather but that looked liked proper mountain climbing what he did
I met Chris and Doug in 1980, at a lecture tour regarding this expedition. They kindly signed my books, and we had a chat. They both commented on how support climber Ronnie Richardson, just wouldn't stop eating everything in-sight!
Back in the day, Western climbers really had to earn their stripes on Everest. No pre-set ropes, no comfy camps waiting for you - just you, the mountain, and a whole lot of suffering! Nowadays, it’s a little different. For a cool $70,000, you can rock up, skip the hardship, and join a nice, long queue to the summit. The Sherpas have already done all the hard work - ropes fixed, tents set up, meals ready. It’s almost like Everest has gone all 'all-inclusive resort,' but, that’s progress, right?
@@mikehines3446 They did, these guy's are and were amazing and have big respect for the mountains. These guys always set their own ropes and tents. No Sherpa was used for ropes, they summit on their own. Sherpa helped carry supplies but they had the doctor even carry supplies
@@goodbyemr.anderson5065 if not for portors they couldn't feed their family's, they get paid very well and porter only gose to base camp for a week then home.
Dude these sherpas and porters are crazy. Hauling loads up and descending, just to turn around and do it again. Each time they climb a mountain, they really climb it fifty times. Respect
@@williamcobbett4943you could still show some respect you know. their families need to eat, and no they dont choose to risk their lifes for arrogant and incapable westeners, they simply have to.
"..for less than a pound a day, they risk their lives..." - this is how bold the climbers are. I would be intensely embarrassed to offer the sherpas less than a £ a day, but the climbers have the stomach for it! Truly a brave bunch.
considering it was the SHERPAS choice, I'd say they need to negotiate better. Did you see anyone pointing a gun at the Sherpas head? Did you see any coercion, use of force, or other threats....yah, me either. stfu and accept the Sherpas agreed to the payment.
I find it interesting that they climbed in September and not in May. Maybe more people should try that time of year, so there will be less overcrowding in May.
@@freddyrassinger8198 The Mountain Heritage Trust have been working on scanning Mick's slide collection. It will be interesting to see them once released. Cancer took Doug from us sadly.
I like this channel, I've been looking for this one , Chris used dougal hastons and Don whillans on k2 in the early 70s, Doug also is a beast , I may be wrong but dougal died on a mountain not long after , I'm gonna Google and find out , thanks David, I love the content and see your channel growing, congratulations
@@cyclingbutterbean I remember hearing it on the news. I was devastated. How this super-climber of Eiger Direct fame could die while cross-country skiing.
Dougal ran a Mountaineering school in Leysin, Switzerland. It’s a relatively tame ski area compared to the big resorts Zermatt, Saas Fee etc. His death skiing above Leysin, 2 years after the South West Face Everest expedition, in a bizarre avalanche accident that had him strangled by his own scarf.
Que hermoso y arriesgado este deporte ,yo lo encontraba una locura pero al ver esas montañas tan hermosas,esa solidaridad que hay los vale ,es un gran desafío a la naturaleza
I feel many people are becoming ashamed to be human these days compared to times before a certain time that endured thru WW2. Dont know when it pushed to the forefront and then things changed. They always do. It became the Individualist mentality and later even ive got mine screw you! Itll go back to a better way ….i hope! Hope i live long enough to see it. I see it starting anyway. Takes time
That's a misconception. Generally its the Sherpas who save western climbers. Do you know that Edmund Hillary was saved by Tensing Norgay when he fell into a crevasse? If he didn't rescue Hillary, he would not have reached the summit.
I'm shocked even bonninton treated the sherpas differently they were treated as if one of us, I mean is that what he has been keeping hidden all this time I'm really shocked. And more so about how he presented himself afterwards and yet he has these views all along
I’m concerned with diet, nutritional snacks, and proper exercise to get ready for difficult treks. These guys 25:05 smoke cigarettes and talk about making sure the whiskey makes it to camp. The 70s men were a different breed.
These freaking guys, spend a night up their, and their doc knows them well enough that he says 'you should take good care of your hand now, but you obviously won't do that'. Haha they where so badass, just walked away without any major injury from a night sleeping on the top of Everest. @ 1:00:21
In all these great stories of exploration, there always seems to be a great Scotsman involved. When you think of the fantastic achievements and inventions by such a small nation, it really is hard to fathom. As these guys might say "One is incredulous " 😉
No credits to music by Mike Oldfield, Hergest Ridge, album from 1974. (e.g., 14:45-15:15, 50:18-51:15, and the end of the video). Was fairly new back then :-)
Big thanks i recently listened to doug scott up and a about my what a life he as had not missed anything. this film sums adds to what i have heard from the audio book love the the 70s mountaineering docs and books even though i was too young my dad would of watched this with a beer and peanuts lol
What strikes me throughout the film is how healthy and capable Mick Burke appeared to be. 3:4531:221:01:26 All it took was one Everest storm and he was gone.
You can't blame Boardman and PT for not being able to convince Burke to turn around, at that altitude, hypoxic and with summit fever. If you want to lay the blame anywhere it would be on Bonington for letting him up to camp VI when he'd been high on the mountain hauling film equipment for so long....
This is great footage but it also shows how things have changed you can't go anywhere without waiting in line it's good to the old there's not a place you can go or humans haven't been and left their trash all I do now is go to my favorite places and pick up trash those are my expeditions and no one will face the taboo subject humans have overpopulated the planet
What's the solution though? Personally I think people should be limited in the amount of children they can have. I like I'm the UK and the government essentially rewards people with cash to have more and more children. The upper echelons of society are having less and less and the scum that haven't worked in generations is having more and more.
Difficult to accept that a century ago, Everest and the surrounding area were virtually pristine. Its been there for millions of years - but in the blink of a geological eye - a century, the place has been trashed by the egos of men and women from all over the world. It just seems such a shame to me.
Mad respect for these guys! I just watched a really good docu about a accent from chinas side and i may be wrong but it looked alot easier than nepal. No icefall only 3 camps
Many of these documentaries show at least one of the mountaineers reflecting on whether the climb is worth even one life lost. They say "no" but they never stop the expedition.
Why is it that I'm so obsessed with Everest when I have such a deep-seated fear of heights that some of the better videos in terms of clarity and definition give me a bit of a panic attack? But maybe I actually like that adrenaline rush, looking down from the top of the world.
They must've got it wrong...25tons of cargo split between a hundred porters?!Anyone picked that up?250kg per person?They must have been bulls ...At least;)
In 1974 Tom Hornbein (RIP) gave my high school class a presentation of his first ascent of the West Ridge in 1963. The next year i began my climbing career summiting Dragontail Peak in the Washington Cascades. Still climbing almost daily today at 67👍
I love it. Congratulations ❤
This is that week of each year where I climb the highest peaks in the world from my mobile phone
😅 me too
😂, that was good!
Me too and I’m always back in one piece,a bit chilly but I have to take out the bins.
Hah, I’m doing just that a year later 🎉
😂😂😂😂 I also claimed all the 8000ers like this ,,it's fun this way
Chris Bonnington, Joe Tasker, Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, Peter Boardman -- a Hall Of Fame of British 70s-80s mountaineers. A breakthrough climb on Everest well before the commercialization of the mountain -- with an extraordinary overnight bivouac by Haston and Scott near the south summit after reaching the top. A bivouac slightly higher than the one done by the American expedition in 1963. Overnight bivouacs on Everest at that height are almost sure death. The fact Scott and Haston survived it with little to no frostbite was a miracle.
This documentary and the photo of Doug Scott climbing the snow-covered Hillary Step were the primary instigators of my own fascination with Everest. I was told the best way to start on a journey to Everest was to first learn rock climbing and then move onto snow and ice. Problem was, I was living in New York City. But soon I found boulders in Central Park, began learning the basics and eventually graduated to the steep and historic cliffs of the Gunks and other climbing areas in New England.
Years later, after reading of the deaths of so many of my mountaineering heros like Boardman and Tasker on the north ridge, I was convinced I might want to stick with the rock climbing I was enjoying and some easier mountaineering -- and pass on a career of ascending 8000 meter peaks. The growing commercialization of Everest (and a family and a career) has now almost fully crushed my dreams of becoming a Himalayan mountaineer. But watching this documentary stirs those old feelings -- a dream lost -- but a dream worth dreaming -- and one that opened a door and gave me years of wonderful climbing experiences. It also reminds me of what Everest used to be. A place for real climbers. People who were passionate about climbing and not merely the bragging rights of having stood on the highest point on Earth.
Wow thanks for this I’m gonna put this on my T.v after this basketball game thanks .
But it was the actual cliff rock climbers who fixed the ropes for the mountaineers to get up that face. What an epic story. I wish I could have been with these guys even just to go camping with them at base camp. I’d have camped and fly fished them beautiful rivers.
Joe Tasker was not on this climb .
An amazing story, thanks for sharing. It seems family and career sneak up on all of us.
What was the peak of your .ountaineering exploits. What are your best summits?
Back when people still respected the beast called Everest. And almost every guy looked like a Bee Gee.
back when people still respected Everest but not the Sherpas....5 lbs pay then 10 pounds pay or 25.00 dollars to carry climbers stuff to camp 6 near the top.
🤣🤣🤣yes great style
Everest: Beyond the Limit is a good series, more about climbers who bought a ticket to climb.
Dorks …. Looks more like a Monty Python skit .
They were just trying to Stay Alive! eye eye eye.
I met Doug Scott at the Banff Mountain Film Festival about 30 years ago. He signed my books, we chatted and I asked if I could have a photo with him. He quipped "I'd rather have a photo with the lady you are with." LOL. RIP big guy.
For whatever the reason, I’m infatuated with Mt. Everest . This is the most informative place I’ve found and Kuddos to David Snow!! 👍👍👍
You should go .... I was the same as you so went on a Base Camp trek ... truly amazing, an incredible experience.
@@3vimages471 Can you just go to Base camp without attempting a summit?
@@marine4lyfe85 Of course you can .... it`s trekking to base camp and mountaineering after that.
@@marine4lyfe85 Yes of course ... many more people `just `trek to base camp than go on to climb the mountain. You need to be quite fit though .... base camp is at about 5400 meters ... much higher than any mountain in Europe.
Same here!
Finally something I haven't seen! I think I've watched every video on RUclips about climbing mountains over 8000m! Thanks David Snow for educating the masses on the history of Mount Everest! Great video!
@@Blobby192 Let's be REALLY honest. The hubris you express, stating that watching videos is in any way sufficient for ascending Everest via. a new route running through the rock band, is a good way to die.
DAvid snow has just stolen these videos from other channels
well, i might add.
I thought this was one I hadn't seen, until I actually watched it! Disappointed!
@@bethwest356 lol
Do you have a list of the really good ones? Much appreciated! I've recently found myself addicted to these documentaries. Ever since hearing the story and seeing the pictures of Green Boots, I've been watching everything I can about these mountains and the expeditions to climb them. It's utterly fascinating to me, probably because I know I'll never do it and I don't quite understand what drives someone to take such risks. I'm slowly starting to get it though.
I'm proud to say l knew Doug Scott.( He was my teacher in Nottingham ) He took us climbing all over Britain especially The Highlands of Scotland. I still go there every year. And always talk about him to anybody who would listen. ( And of course the Scot. Dogle Haston )
Very lucky to get him as a teacher and for him to take you on expeditions.
Glad you still come up the Highlands ✌️
I love how calmly and soft people used to speak. Respectful too
Yes, we were kind, considerate and there was no reason to raise your voice. Thanks for noticing. Living was easy back then and people kept their word. ❤
Yes, exactly my thought, and the English language wasn't butchered back then with the nonsense you hear these days.
We can all thank hollywood and music industry and schools
Enjoy very much these earlier films on the expeditions, the manner in which they were filmed, and narrated, with minimum musical soundtrack. Thank you, @DavidSnowClimbing for posting these gems!
It's amazing! the company i worked for actually made the tents for Base Camp 2 of this expedition. BCT Outdoors in Bradford Yorkshire.
Wow. That’s cool
As a young climber in the 70s, I enjoyed the story of this expedition as told in Sir Bonnington's book over and over again. While never going to the higher mountains, I threw myself into rock and ice climbing in New England and have climbed and guided in these old hills ever since. I never knew there was so much footage from this expedition and have thoroughly enjoyed this!
Your wife looks a good 20 years younger. Happy man I assume? 😉
@@XxXx-sc3xu😒 and you're a shallow man. No need for presumption
i absolutely LOVED this video, not only because I was 5 years old in 1975 but also it reminds me of my dad also loving to climb and me following him around just about everywhere to this day I love climbing, thank you Dad🥰
I was also 5 in 1975, miss my Dad so much too, but mainly followed him in and out of pubs 🤪 x
Thank you Mr. Snow! Recovering from surgery and this was/is the perfect companion. Im sure to re-watch this many times.❤😊
The book is excellent, this video brings it to life, thank you David Snow for sharing.
🇵🇱🇵🇱🇵🇱🇵🇱🇵🇱. To piekne. Everest jest królem gór. W domu śniegu. . Cały Nepal jest wspaniały. 😊 Pozdrawiam szerpow i himalaistów. Renata
Dougal Haston's determination and skill as a top class lead climber was totally unparalleled at the time.... he had no equal.
David Snow is king of the mountain climbing videos, thank you Sir
I watch every documentary you upload, thank you so much!!!!
Please dig up more of these classics!
Always enjoy watching this one. The success in 1975 sort of signified the end of large siege tactics expedition style climbing for the British Golden generation of climbers.
Read the book. Everest the hard way. Never knew this video existed, read the book twice. Really takes you there, well as close as I’ll ever get. Amazing adventures they had.
Thank you for sharing this, David. This is a great story, from the 1975 British Expedition. The Southwest Face Route, my God what a challenging route. Few choose to do it even today. If you are successful you eventually wind up near the South Summit and the Hillary Step, like the more travelled and easier routes. What I don't understand from this video is what descent route the successful summiteers took back down that caused the deaths. If anyone has info on those descents from this expedition we would appreciate that insight. As we all know, the descent is so much more challenging than the ascent in many cases. If some attempted to descent back down the Southwest Face that would be significant news. Great video and great history.
They descended the same route as was ascended. Ropes were already fixed for the later summit groups via the gully leading up to the south summit. And there was only one death,, Mick Burke and he most certainly fell off the summit ridge before reaching the fixed ropes because it was getting dark and a spindrift storm. Pete and petumba waited at s summit for burke until they finally had to go for their own safety and barely found the oxygen tanks marking the top of the fixed ropes themselves,,, so its nearly certain burke never made it to the fixed ropes.
This is real - if scary - mountaineering. Sad that many - most - of these real climbers didn't live old. Messner was a rarity and he almost got killed twice.
Four Slovak climbers climbed the Bonnington route alpine style without oxygen in 1988, one of them made it to the summit, while other three made it to south summit. Sadly, they all perished during the descent being nearly blind after three days spent in death zone.
Brutal!! Still gotta do it
😢
The Sherpas always seem incredible to me.
Amazing to see at least one of the climbing members was a smoker. Would be hard enough on a fully functional set of lungs, let alone lungs impeded by smoking damage.
I remember Chris bonnington in the 60s on the TV on Sunday afternoons climbing ,and I wasn't over excited about it ,but I can't get enough of these mountain climbing videos and this has been one of the best if not the best ,I'm addicted to them and start off watching them in bed every night until I fall asleep
His climbing looked very difficult when he did it on t v
But Everest and the rest of these mountains look as they are much EASIER but dangerous with the weather and ice
I couldn't imagine those who climb Everest could climb those that bonnington climbed on Sunday afternoons ,they didn't have the snow and ice and very bad weather but that looked liked proper mountain climbing what he did
Only one ladder on the 1953 expedition 🤔 all the more incredible that the summit was reached back then
Damn no back up ladder at all?! What if something happened to their only one hehe
Awesome content. I had not seen this one before. Keep em coming!
Glad you enjoyed it!
That expedition was well run and well led, but unfortunately Mick Burke died and it was his decision to risk the climb late in the day.
I met Chris and Doug in 1980, at a lecture tour regarding this expedition. They kindly signed my books, and we had a chat.
They both commented on how support climber Ronnie Richardson, just wouldn't stop eating everything in-sight!
All the sunglasses look in style for 2024 how bad ass!!
Back in the day, Western climbers really had to earn their stripes on Everest. No pre-set ropes, no comfy camps waiting for you - just you, the mountain, and a whole lot of suffering! Nowadays, it’s a little different. For a cool $70,000, you can rock up, skip the hardship, and join a nice, long queue to the summit. The Sherpas have already done all the hard work - ropes fixed, tents set up, meals ready. It’s almost like Everest has gone all 'all-inclusive resort,' but, that’s progress, right?
Smoking cigarettes, drinking whiskey and climbing Everest. Bravo.
Just make sure you pick up your cigarette butts and broken whiskey bottles before you leave the mountain
@@mikehines3446 They did, these guy's are and were amazing and have big respect for the mountains. These guys always set their own ropes and tents. No Sherpa was used for ropes, they summit on their own. Sherpa helped carry supplies but they had the doctor even carry supplies
@@Bella.216 right except for the 100 porters hahaha
@@goodbyemr.anderson5065 if not for portors they couldn't feed their family's, they get paid very well and porter only gose to base camp for a week then home.
@Josie I wish they would ban bottled oxygen to me it’s cheating plus all the 8,000 meter mountains are littered with used oxygen bottles.
Climbing these over 8000 meter peaks back in 1975 seemed noble. Today it seems commercialized and touristy.
Dude these sherpas and porters are crazy. Hauling loads up and descending, just to turn around and do it again. Each time they climb a mountain, they really climb it fifty times. Respect
A great time in mountaineering when men were made famous!
It's how they earn a living . They queue at the chance to join an expedition.
@@williamcobbett4943you could still show some respect you know. their families need to eat, and no they dont choose to risk their lifes for arrogant and incapable westeners, they simply have to.
They are the real amazing people.
Everest is all about altitude, and the accompanying cold, wind, snow, ice, avalanches, ice-falls, and thin air.
Actually, Everest is all about attitude much like any great endeavor people choose to participate in.
"..for less than a pound a day, they risk their lives..." - this is how bold the climbers are. I would be intensely embarrassed to offer the sherpas less than a £ a day, but the climbers have the stomach for it! Truly a brave bunch.
W sarcasm
considering it was the SHERPAS choice, I'd say they need to negotiate better. Did you see anyone pointing a gun at the Sherpas head? Did you see any coercion, use of force, or other threats....yah, me either. stfu and accept the Sherpas agreed to the payment.
I find it interesting that they climbed in September and not in May. Maybe more people should try that time of year, so there will be less overcrowding in May.
You deal with more snow and avalanches happen more in September.
That mustve been one of the best bottles of whisky in the world at that time and place!
2 bit whisky is gold at that location...may as well trek quality right?
I love these guys! Rip Mick Burke!
@@freddyrassinger8198 The Mountain Heritage Trust have been working on scanning Mick's slide collection. It will be interesting to see them once released. Cancer took Doug from us sadly.
"It won't offend the ecologists because it will be blown away anyway"
Lol, I don't think that'll convince the ecologists!
I like this channel, I've been looking for this one , Chris used dougal hastons and Don whillans on k2 in the early 70s, Doug also is a beast , I may be wrong but dougal died on a mountain not long after , I'm gonna Google and find out , thanks David, I love the content and see your channel growing, congratulations
Yes he died in a avalanche in the Himalaya. He was one of the best climbers in the day!!!
@@Bella.216 I totally agree with you
@@Bella.216 No, he was skiing in Leysin Switzerland
@@cyclingbutterbean I remember hearing it on the news. I was devastated. How this super-climber of Eiger Direct fame could die while cross-country skiing.
Dougal ran a Mountaineering school in Leysin, Switzerland. It’s a relatively tame ski area compared to the big resorts Zermatt, Saas Fee etc. His death skiing above Leysin, 2 years after the South West Face Everest expedition, in a bizarre avalanche accident that had him strangled by his own scarf.
"the purpose of this years expedition, is to try to find any traces of last years expedition", monty python
a wonderful film thank you for sharing
Que hermoso y arriesgado este deporte ,yo lo encontraba una locura pero al ver esas montañas tan hermosas,esa solidaridad que hay los vale ,es un gran desafío a la naturaleza
Back then the climbers made the route for the sherpas, now it's the other way around.
I feel many people are becoming ashamed to be human these days compared to times before a certain time that endured thru WW2. Dont know when it pushed to the forefront and then things changed. They always do. It became the Individualist mentality and later even ive got mine screw you! Itll go back to a better way ….i hope! Hope i live long enough to see it. I see it starting anyway. Takes time
Peter Boardman is my hero of all these guys from those days.
That's a misconception. Generally its the Sherpas who save western climbers. Do you know that Edmund Hillary was saved by Tensing Norgay when he fell into a crevasse? If he didn't rescue Hillary, he would not have reached the summit.
I'm shocked even bonninton treated the sherpas differently they were treated as if one of us, I mean is that what he has been keeping hidden all this time I'm really shocked. And more so about how he presented himself afterwards and yet he has these views all along
it was nice to see him stop things to search for the deaf sherpa. its sad he did drown.
I wonder if the average bloke from Thetford or Coventry would have lugged all of that weight for less than a quid a day?
I’m concerned with diet, nutritional snacks, and proper exercise to get ready for difficult treks. These guys 25:05 smoke cigarettes and talk about making sure the whiskey makes it to camp. The 70s men were a different breed.
I climbed Everest without oxygen in 2004..
Then I woke up
I climb the varied routes at least weekly, then I wake up in my Florida bed.
These freaking guys, spend a night up their, and their doc knows them well enough that he says 'you should take good care of your hand now, but you obviously won't do that'. Haha they where so badass, just walked away without any major injury from a night sleeping on the top of Everest. @ 1:00:21
Thanks for uploading this! finally something new!
- A viewer in Durango, Colorado
Thanks a lot for the great upload.
Glad you enjoyed it
At least one of those porters 40lb backpacks was entirely full of cigarettes lol
In all these great stories of exploration, there always seems to be a great Scotsman involved. When you think of the fantastic achievements and inventions by such a small nation, it really is hard to fathom. As these guys might say "One is incredulous " 😉
"Good scramble, lads." Yeah, sure. Understatement of the 20th century?
Messner is my hero,especially what he did on Everest
No credits to music by Mike Oldfield, Hergest Ridge, album from 1974. (e.g., 14:45-15:15, 50:18-51:15, and the end of the video).
Was fairly new back then :-)
Mates Dad Tut. Met a few of these guys. Bonkers the lot of em and brilliant too.
Big thanks i recently listened to doug scott up and a about my what a life he as had not missed anything.
this film sums adds to what i have heard from the audio book
love the the 70s mountaineering docs and books even though i was too young my dad would of watched this with a beer and peanuts lol
What strikes me throughout the film is how healthy and capable Mick Burke appeared to be. 3:45 31:22 1:01:26
All it took was one Everest storm and he was gone.
He was a tough dude,first british man to climb the Nose on El Capitan
And Mick's hubris!
And his friends let him go the last bit at alone. I astonished how they just swept his death under the rug.
You can't blame Boardman and PT for not being able to convince Burke to turn around, at that altitude, hypoxic and with summit fever. If you want to lay the blame anywhere it would be on Bonington for letting him up to camp VI when he'd been high on the mountain hauling film equipment for so long....
This is great footage but it also shows how things have changed you can't go anywhere without waiting in line it's good to the old there's not a place you can go or humans haven't been and left their trash all I do now is go to my favorite places and pick up trash those are my expeditions and no one will face the taboo subject humans have overpopulated the planet
truth!
What's the solution though?
Personally I think people should be limited in the amount of children they can have.
I like I'm the UK and the government essentially rewards people with cash to have more and more children.
The upper echelons of society are having less and less and the scum that haven't worked in generations is having more and more.
Ain’t no line up this face.
Glad someone's got the balls to say it
@@jamesmx7 Are we still on Everest?
Why did they go in September? Why not April, May? Weren't they playing with fire during monsoon season?
The best I've seen on everest 🤘
Difficult to accept that a century ago, Everest and the surrounding area were virtually pristine. Its been there for millions of years - but in the blink of a geological eye - a century, the place has been trashed by the egos of men and women from all over the world. It just seems such a shame to me.
I hope Mick got to the top. He would have died a happy man
$5 to carry a load up to Camp V, $10 additional to carry up to Camp VI
They get to base camp and it's empty, these days with the commercial tourist industry there are 500 tents at base camp.
*Said in the most British of British accents*
"Unfortunately the lad has been drowned, you can come back now, over"
The body, not the lad or man.
Chris Bonington...Top geezer.
Poshos can't be geezers
Life =....Taking away , the moments , that make up a dull day 🤪
'Ticking away' you mean.
@@darrenlamb5640 either works
Mad respect for these guys! I just watched a really good docu about a accent from chinas side and i may be wrong but it looked alot easier than nepal. No icefall only 3 camps
I dont think that side is still allowed to be climbed?
@@deludedhybridseverywhere5326
No i think you can still climb from China, If i would decide to climb Everest i would probably Take the chinese side.
💯🏋💪
aaah, the era of the really short shorts..... lol...
Back then men were man enough to wear shorts, and ladies wore culottes. Now men wear culottes, and the ladies wear shorts.
@@30smsuperstrat True and LOL..
when you put that much work into your legs you want to show them off
I say, chaps, jolly good show, what! :-D
Many of these documentaries show at least one of the mountaineers reflecting on whether the climb is worth even one life lost. They say "no" but they never stop the expedition.
I want Allan Clarke to be my GP. He is great.
Sorry Charlie
Fyfe sat on his arse, ordering everyone about. He never changed.
Do you have any documentary regarding the Yugoslav route from 1979? I think it was never repeated again because of difficulty.
Why is it that I'm so obsessed with Everest when I have such a deep-seated fear of heights that some of the better videos in terms of clarity and definition give me a bit of a panic attack? But maybe I actually like that adrenaline rush, looking down from the top of the world.
At minute 4.55 I see a beautiful Nepali country girl ..😃❤️
Love to see a hd version
Makes you wonder what the climbers of yesteryear would make of the equipment used today.
Ski down all the 8000's in 10 days
Imagine if others arrive at the top and think you've gone the easy way...
4:49 a £ a bottle sound pretty good these days but I'm sure it was a different story in 1975.
Boy I would of love to meet Chris Bonington
Imagine. All these guys are now in their 70's 80's or dead.
Ur username..lmao 😃😆
Sir Chris Bonington turns 90 this August.
It's fascinating how the used to think they had to choose who got to go to the summit and now everyone and their Mother goes.
No one ever shows the walk out.
Good point. Bc they typically die going down hill.
@@Mrbfgray Something like 80%.
I have to acclimatize to the hair on this expedition.
Thank you so much
Don Whillens should have been there for the pure entertainment value.
Who wore short shorts? They wore short shorts!
😃😆😆
I'm reminded of an old commercial jingle: Who wears short shorts?
They wear short shorts! 😋
Haha the 70s!
I was just thinking about how out-of-style looked their short shorts. Style is a strange animal.
They must've got it wrong...25tons of cargo split between a hundred porters?!Anyone picked that up?250kg per person?They must have been bulls ...At least;)
100 sherpas and 400 porters they said
Each porter made multiple trips.
"To the right of the body". So casually said, I wonder what body it was up that high in the 70s with only 22 odd dead and mostly Sherpas.
How many bottles of whisky did they bring?
Glamping in the Himalayas....complete with great food (minus the yakburgers) beer whiskey and cigarettes.
Why minus the burger, have you had yak burger?
No...but I dont eat cow burgers either ...
@@maytedeferrare8353
But what exactly is wrong with these people eating yakburger? ...
Nothing!
You're just being a lefty WOKE snowflake aren't you. 🙄
Makes me want to go back to Kathmandu. Bad place for disease though.
"hello Mike, unfortunately the lad has been drowned"