Rocket Mass Heater Full Build Batch Box Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- The Rocket Mass is Finished and in Operation. This is the first video about the Full Build. There will be a Part 2 rather than an extra long video. Part 3 will be what I've learned about How to Burn a Rocket Mass Batch Box.
I'd Like to Thank Wilson Lindelof my Friend and Neighbor for His Help Setting the Top as seen at the end of the Video
I'd also like to thank Peter van den burg for his Suggestions as well as publishing the Peterburg Calculations used in my build. batchrocket.eu/en/applications
Also I'd like to thank Thomas at Dragon Technology for Supplying material and Knowledge dragontechrmh.com
I'd Mention Matt with Walker Stoves for His Channel and His Quick Responses to My Questions
Permies.com For The Inspiration To do this Project
Lastly I thank all of you who have offered suggestions for this Project ...
I Try to answer all questions published in the comments section
Gracias Carl, has hecho un gran trabajo y créeme que yo te lo agradezco .Estoy en Chile y aquí el clima en invierno es muy duro ; gracias y espero verla funcionando.
This is really excellent. That thing will hold heat for so long. Can't wait to see part 2!
Pt #2 should be out Soon
Beautifully done, Carl, and obviously well thought out. Good engineering pays for itself many times over.
Carl, you have built a stove that will outlast the house, by decades. One commenter here is right though... about the insulation. When you fire this thing up, be patient. It will take a LONG, LONG time to heat up but eventually it will, and when it does the "mass" will hold and radiate out the heat for a very long time after the fire is out. Because of all this insulation you need massive temperatures in the batch box and riser which you should be able to get. If you are not heating up properly (allow two hours)...., per what the commenter said, you need to rip out the insulation between the firebrick and the outer red brick, leaving only a small gap. Clay and shale bricks are "fired" at 1800 degrees. There is ZERO risk of damage. The only reason to not put them next to firebrick is, like you said expansion and cracks. There is no reason whatsoever, to protect them. Most "red bricks" can be thrown into a wood stove (as I have done many times) and reach 800 degrees, glowing red, and there would be no problem. Sure, your burn chamber and riser needs to be firebrick, but once the hot gasses clear the riser, the red bricks should take the heat directly. If it take too long to heat up, it seems like your two piece cement top is removable so you could get in there with tongs (or whatever,) and rip out the insulation. Other than this issue, your build is very solid and will last forever. However, this issue could be a problem if you are not getting super hot at about 2 hours. If you get no heat at all for an hour, that's normal. It takes a while for bricks to absorb and radiate out. Overall, very good job.
The longer I burn this the better I understand it. I'm going to do another video talking about the way I burn it and discuss the details and/or changes. You have some great points but I'm using mine as an everyday whole house only heater and it's different from your experiments in the garage that you are doing. I will address your suggestions when I do that video. Thank You for your comments as it gives me more information to discuss in my video coming up
Hi Carl, Let me congratulate you on a meticulous, well though out build.
I am so impressed that the fire drew well from first lighting.
Do you have any temperature readings like, Chimney/flu temperature, is the bell at the fire end, a similar temperature to the same height as the opposite end of bell ?
Does the bell get hot all the way down to the chimney entrance, height ? if so, is it the same temperature from front to back ?
How long does your 5gal bucket of wood burn for ?
Does the whole build give you the level of heating and ease of use you were hoping for ?
if not, what would you like to improve on ?
Thank you in advance for considering these questions
Stephen from Kopu in New Zealand
Thank you.
Awesome! I am so excited for you!
Oh,, one thing. "When I said superhot" ... correction. Even in massive Russian stoves most bricks don't heat to more than 150 degrees.... but 600 t0 700 bricks radiating out 150 to (down to 80 degrees over time,) for 12 hours is a lot of heat.... like 600 little heaters. The core of a large masonry heater is burnt for 2 hours at well over 1500 degrees, once a day, and most parts of the masonry heater can be hand touched no problem, just after the burn.
Hey Matt it's guy's fancy seeing you hear old friend, gratitude for all the info you share..
Thanks
Excellent video! I had thought about doing that same thing with the chimney, I believe that your RMH should start drafting quickly with the first fire. If anything, you could pop the cap for that clean out and burn some paper real quick, or heck, maybe just set a small candle in there to prime the system? That firebox and riser will take a good solid burn to warm up, but once it's warm it'll run like a freight train!! I'm very much looking forward to the next video, thanks for taking the time to update us with your progress.
P.S. That firebox should make for an excellent white oven. I bet that with a little testing and a nice cast iron dutch oven you could easily bake bread in it once your fire goes out.
I've had no problem with drafting at all. I'm sure doing the chimney pipe like this is good. Next part 2 explains what I did to stop drafting when not burning, resulting in better heat retention
I did consider the oven idea to try ... I do bake my own sourdough bread
I've been thinking about the heat retention factor as well. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
Getting ready to start building the unit, is there anything you would do differet if you were to build another unit? Size wise etc? Do you know how hot the bricks get in the bell area? Did the unit warm the house ? Thanks. Have a good day,
I'm satisfied with the build ... My cabin is just at 400 sf and burning 2x a day I was very comfortable. The brick outside temperature was about 135° and the chimney was about 110° ... In all honesty if I were to build it again I'd likely do the Russian stove design. The RMH would be great using the barrel or something similar but the batch box I built isn't what I expected. It is good but I believe that knowing what the temperature is ... A Russian stove design would be better than a batch box stove ... But looking for the quick heat that a RMH can deliver using a barrel or similar ... It would be exco
How the bricks heat up with all that extra insulation? Keeping all the heat in the firebox, bell and chimney, its going out the house before it gets through all the wool. And no metal bell for radiant heat? Wouldn't that make it a masonry rocket mass? Just a technicality. Not important.
I think that it's important for the functionality of the stove to insulate as it keeps the vital works hot and ready for the next fire. A cold stove does not operate as well and takes longer to get hot again. In the next video you will see how I "trap" heat in the stove to radiate into the cabin instead of out the chimney. Then I plan on a 3rd video going through how I burn and the different quirks that affects the performance ... Thank You for your comment and help 👍🏼
Masonry radiant heat hybrid hahaha
Thanks for the detailed video.
In one of your previous videos, you were mocking up an exhaust path that wandered in and around several brick obstacles. Would a few stacks of clay bricks low in your bell increase heat retention?
Yes that was also suggested to put extra in the bell. The "baffled" system I started with was nixed because I was told of poor airflow and it would affect the draw. I changed my mind and went with the double skin for more mass as you mentioned. Thank You for your comment
@carlboehm3858 Gotcha! I'm trying to figure out a version of your design with a J tube combustion chamber instead of batch. I understand the advantages of batch but need to simplify my design.
@timcomer262 understandable ... I did a lot of research before I jumped into the build. If you do a j tube I would suggest you do single wall as you won't have the higher riser temperature and would have to burn longer. The taller you can build the bell the better than doing a wider build. Keep us updated with your progress
How many fire brick and regular brick did it take? Nice job. Been wanting to build one for couple years. Watching your build has faned the desire again . Gained a lot of information. Thank you.
I used about 700 red brick, 153 firebrick, 300+ lbs fireclay, about 500 lbs sand and not quite 2 90# bags of Portland Cement along with just over 4 cu yards of perlite.
Thank You for watching and your questions 😊
@carlboehm3858 thank you for information. Weather breaks I will get started on layout
Have enough fire bricks. Will have to get another 300 clay bricks. How much wood did you use in heating your home? Glad I came across your ytube. Thank you again for your help.
@@roncarey3073 on average I am using a 5 gallon bucket load each day divided into 2 burns about 12 hrs apart ... when it was down to single digits and below I used maybe a bucket each burn ... I am still learning and trying different wood sizes and burn loads. I will be doing another video once I figure it out 🤣