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We are all dying to know how well it works... 😅😊

Hi Carl, Let me congratulate you on a meticulous, well though out build. I am so impressed that the fire drew well from first lighting. Do you have any temperature readings like, Chimney/flu temperature, is the bell at the fire end, a similar temperature to the same height as the opposite end of bell ? Does the bell get hot all the way down to the chimney entrance, height ? if so, is it the same temperature from front to back ? How long does your 5gal bucket of wood burn for ? Does the whole build give you the level of heating and ease of use you were hoping for ? if not, what would you like to improve on ? Thank you in advance for considering these questions Stephen from Kopu in New Zealand

Nice work. In my experience a long rod going through both hinges works best, weld a nut at the top of the rod as a stop and it holds by gravity. Those screw threads will rust and seize. It hurts when I see people weld door hinges, those always seize and don't play well with thermal expansion

Gracias Carl, has hecho un gran trabajo y créeme que yo te lo agradezco .Estoy en Chile y aquí el clima en invierno es muy duro ; gracias y espero verla funcionando.

Getting ready to start building the unit, is there anything you would do differet if you were to build another unit? Size wise etc? Do you know how hot the bricks get in the bell area? Did the unit warm the house ? Thanks. Have a good day,

Yeah!!!

What great documentation. A wonderful build. I notice someone asked about its performance. You are so meticulous. I’m sure you have that detailed too. Thank you for sharing. 😊

Really, really nice! 👍 😊

So thankful you got it started my friend

WOW my friend you did a good job putting the seat cover on

i don't see a bypass in your design for quick startups without smoke backing up. Has this been an issue or does your design not require a bypass?

🎉Whoo-Hooo!

Thanks

These build videos are great!

Yes, He is.

Your steel pipe for secondary air will not melt ?

Carl, I really like what you did here. Thanks for documenting and sharing.

Beautifully done, Carl, and obviously well thought out. Good engineering pays for itself many times over.

Awesome! I am so excited for you!

Thank You for watching and for your question. The cleanouts are just black stovepipe. I used the cap fitting and riveted a screendoor pull for the handle. Putting the pipe in with the crimped end out the cap goes on secure and has not leaked any smoke. The cleanout above the door also gets warmer than the one connected to the chimney tee so it is a little bit of quick heat.

Incredible, Carl, very impressive result. Looking forward to hearing more about your results as I had a very similar build in mind, except using a sidewinder core and a glass in the stove door. Could you elaborate on your cleanout doors? How did you make them & are they sealed well?

How many fire brick and regular brick did it take? Nice job. Been wanting to build one for couple years. Watching your build has faned the desire again . Gained a lot of information. Thank you.

Lookin great mate. I'll be interested to find how it performs. How much fuel, how well it heats and how long until it falls to an ambient temperature

Cool idea! thanks!

Well done! 👍👍

Seems to be nice design, though the secondary air feed and some of that ceramic wool is just overkill and a waste of time, effort, and of course, money. I must comment on the thickness of the mortar holding your firebricks: my experience teaches that it will not last long term with temps over 2k. It is much too thick. Mortar for firebrick is applied much thinner and will last a very very long time.

Suffers from VVS, Vertical Video Syndrome. ruclips.net/video/f2picMQC-9E/видео.html

Thank you.

This is really excellent. That thing will hold heat for so long. Can't wait to see part 2!

Oh,, one thing. "When I said superhot" ... correction. Even in massive Russian stoves most bricks don't heat to more than 150 degrees.... but 600 t0 700 bricks radiating out 150 to (down to 80 degrees over time,) for 12 hours is a lot of heat.... like 600 little heaters. The core of a large masonry heater is burnt for 2 hours at well over 1500 degrees, once a day, and most parts of the masonry heater can be hand touched no problem, just after the burn.

Carl, you have built a stove that will outlast the house, by decades. One commenter here is right though... about the insulation. When you fire this thing up, be patient. It will take a LONG, LONG time to heat up but eventually it will, and when it does the "mass" will hold and radiate out the heat for a very long time after the fire is out. Because of all this insulation you need massive temperatures in the batch box and riser which you should be able to get. If you are not heating up properly (allow two hours)...., per what the commenter said, you need to rip out the insulation between the firebrick and the outer red brick, leaving only a small gap. Clay and shale bricks are "fired" at 1800 degrees. There is ZERO risk of damage. The only reason to not put them next to firebrick is, like you said expansion and cracks. There is no reason whatsoever, to protect them. Most "red bricks" can be thrown into a wood stove (as I have done many times) and reach 800 degrees, glowing red, and there would be no problem. Sure, your burn chamber and riser needs to be firebrick, but once the hot gasses clear the riser, the red bricks should take the heat directly. If it take too long to heat up, it seems like your two piece cement top is removable so you could get in there with tongs (or whatever,) and rip out the insulation. Other than this issue, your build is very solid and will last forever. However, this issue could be a problem if you are not getting super hot at about 2 hours. If you get no heat at all for an hour, that's normal. It takes a while for bricks to absorb and radiate out. Overall, very good job.

Excellent video! I had thought about doing that same thing with the chimney, I believe that your RMH should start drafting quickly with the first fire. If anything, you could pop the cap for that clean out and burn some paper real quick, or heck, maybe just set a small candle in there to prime the system? That firebox and riser will take a good solid burn to warm up, but once it's warm it'll run like a freight train!! I'm very much looking forward to the next video, thanks for taking the time to update us with your progress. P.S. That firebox should make for an excellent white oven. I bet that with a little testing and a nice cast iron dutch oven you could easily bake bread in it once your fire goes out.

Thanks for the detailed video. In one of your previous videos, you were mocking up an exhaust path that wandered in and around several brick obstacles. Would a few stacks of clay bricks low in your bell increase heat retention?

How the bricks heat up with all that extra insulation? Keeping all the heat in the firebox, bell and chimney, its going out the house before it gets through all the wool. And no metal bell for radiant heat? Wouldn't that make it a masonry rocket mass? Just a technicality. Not important.

GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR LOVED ONES! PRAISE OUR LORD AND SAVIOR JESUS CHRIST!

Great idea! Thank You for sharing.

Nice peace of masonry! Became fan of RMH stowes 6y ago. Here in Bulgaria we tend to use portable rocket stowes. Worked hard and now I have my own compact rocket heater (110/70/26cm). The first videos are on my tube channel. Planning better quality 😅

Thank you❤

Carl, I'm looking forward to your next video on how the masonry heater works. I have been tossing around the idea of a J-tube but I may look at a batch burner instead after seeing your latest video.

💞

Carl, here's this week's stove build in my garage. ruclips.net/video/jhkW0T8Nemo/видео.html

Great video. cant wait to hear how it works.

Your riser height is probably fine. I, personally, would go closer but the difference is trivial. In Russian stoves, they put the firebox "right inside the bell" which is basically what you are doing. One last minute suggestion. Your bell is very hollow. (low mass) Your heater is built around "mass" (heat storage) and not a "quick heat up." I would place a cinder block or two inside the bell, the ones with the holes. More mass... as much mass as possible. The gasses will find their way to your chimney intake even if you piled bricks at random in the bell Finally, with your double brick, it will take a LONG TIME for everything to heat up. Be patient, and take your burn chamber to 1,000 degrees after your initial burn. You will need incredible temps for everything to radiate hot and it will still take 30 minutes to an hour to heat up. Watch videos on the burning of masonry heaters. They go over 1,000 degrees for 2 hours and then they are done burning for 8 to 10 hours and all the mass keeps radiating heat for a long, long time.

Carl... did you finish your "ceiling yet" ... or can you still "get in there"? - Well.. let me assume you won't answer and come back and add to this in case you don't see it. I'm sure everything will work out great. I would have taken the rocket stove "riser" up higher. A "riser" in an old "J" rocket stove is just 2 inches from the top of the steel barrel. It seems like that is too narrow and would choke it off, but it does not. I think you'll be fine with this "bell design" but people who have ever had problems with rocket stoves, the problem comes from TOO much gap between the top of the riser and the ceiling. (Carl, you should be fine here. If your ceiling is done, don't worry about it) A good chimney will pull so hard it won't matter. Keep the chimney as long and as INSULATED as possible especially in the first 10 feet of the run. (If it draws like crazy after the first light up, don't worry about it.) Again, this thing will likely work fine no matter what... I'm just saying... "just in case." Again, for anyone new Carl has done things to make this perfect, ....things that don't need to be done. People should not be dissuaded from doing this because they can't mimic what Carl did. Finally, for Carl... be patient with the warm up. The bricks will take quite a while to warm up. (A good 30 minutes into the burn and the brick bell sides will be kinda cold.) That's OK, this is a heat radiation device for hours, not a quick heat up the room device. Bake the firebox to MAX TEMP like a foundry (after a small, break in burn.) All that firebrick will be fine and slowly absorb the heat. This thing is designed for max temp, not 5 sticks. It really needs to be baked to work right. If it smokes a bit (at any part) for the first 20 minutes of the first burn, don't worry about it. All that goes away when the entire system heats up and you can plug little holes with mortar later. Finally, I'm not sure what your concrete hood is... If it ever cracks, use Rutland refractory cement 1 part, to 3 parts perlite or vermiculite. Good luck.

dont burn the house down, start small and make sure it works the way it should

Excellent, simple design that I bet will work well. The ugly barrel associated with a rocket stove should be a thing of the past. Use the rocket stove core to heat BRICK and thermal mass, not an ugly oil drum. Use masonry and brick like the Russians and Fins do to store heat for 5 to 10 hours. Cobb and mud benches, not necessary. A few things if there are any "beginners here." The insulating around the firebrick with the "wool wrap" is NOT necessary. It can't hurt, but it's overkill... adds 1%. For heavens sake he's used full 9 x 4.5 x 2.5 firebrick, not the thin firebrick kind! NO NEED. It's already insulated by TWO layers of brick and the air moves through in just 2 seconds. Where's the "cool down" gonna come from in 2 seconds? Also, for beginners, the "cut bricks" at the bottom of the riser to make the venturi is nice if you can do it, but NOT necessary. It will draft fine either way. It adds 2%. Rocket stove makers are in love with spinning air in the riser. No need if you can't cut the bricks. Rocket stove makers are in love with secondary air also. It's nice if you can do it, but it's not necessary if you don't have the technical skills to build that metal tube. The "squeeze off / choke off" of the standard batch box is not necessary in this design. It will rush up the riser hard either way. A taller riser of firebrick is worth more than the "choke off" everybody thinks they need to do in a batch box. If enough primary air moves through that's fine. When the thing heats up to max, you won't get any smoke. This is a rocket stove surrounded by a Kuznetzov Russian "bell." Very good design I bet.

How much money did the project cost?

Where the 2ry air get mixed?