Ummm all I saw were perfect replicas of battledamaged Zaku shoulders. Toss those puppies in a deserted ruin city diorama and you got yourself a battlefield
A whole bunch of them in one place makes me think of someone collecting scalps or trophies from downed units - like how feudal lords would put heads on pikes. Seriously territorial Mad Max level vibes if done right.
I read somewhere that to avoid getting bubbles you keep your molds on something that shakes slightly or vibrates while it's curing this helps the mold to settle better and helps the air bubbles to move to the top I guess
I did a lot of testing with solvents dissolving plastics for various uses. Acetone is too "hot" of a solvent and evaporates very fast. This causes internal micro bubbles and make parts brittle and discolors the plastic. Use a "slower" solvent eg. Lacquer thinner. You used hobby cement which is a slower solvent. Your putty is too thick and you will not get it into all the crevices. 2 parts mold is better and you can apply thin layers and build up the part. Kind of like slush casting. Pour a watery solution into the mold and get it into all the crevasses. let it dry. This get the surface details. After tat you can putty the rest or build up in layers. It doesn't matter how because it won't affect the surface details. People get better results using Oyumaru ( Blue Stuff) because it is a stiffer rubber than silicone. Much better with pushing putty into the mold to get the shape. Silicone is too soft and deforms. Silicone is best suited for pouring. Note: Dissolved plastic in solvents will shrink over time. Not ideal for thick parts. Personally I would go with resin or epoxy putty that cures chemically instead of evaporation unless you need to fix a straight build with the same plastic and color.
Easy to say, hard to find the parts, rn I need one of the white parts from the backpack of an MG 1/100 Barbatos because I broke it like an idiot when I took it out from the runner, it still holds into place without any glue tho but I can't stand the thought a broken piece is on my first ever Barbatos:((. Luckly I have a friend with a 3D printer and he has a scanner too, hopefully it will work scanning the other piece and print it since they're both the same, he didn't use the scanner yet but we'll see what we can do this this Sunday.
I've seen this done successfully multiple times in a gunpla facebook group im in, however the guy that does it refuses to share his methods, he just says he melted the runner and made copies and that's as far as I know. I suspect he uses either clay or oyomaru blue stuff to make his molds though
I just bought my first gunpla kit after a 25 year hiatus. I haven't even put it together yet and I'm already watching videos about molding my own pieces. Talk about cart before horse. Man... My wife is going to hate me when suddenly our house is overrun with little plastic robots.
I recommend a two sided mold, because you are not having to force the melted plastic inside the silicone rather using a more melted and liquid base resin.
im pondering that this process might work pretty well if after youve melted it down you then use a perfectly flat tool or surface to press it into a plaplate
Bluestuff and epoxy putty would probably be the easies diy at home way to do this if you are wanting a "perfect" part. or bakers clay works too but that would probably cause weight issues on some parts.
What ratio of plastic to acetone did you use to get the taffy consistency? I have an idea of using this method to roll out flat sheets to make home made pla-plate.
Im currently experimenting with melting runners down to make duplicate parts, as of right now iv had two fails. I know one of them failed mostly because the mold i made wasnt quite up to snuff, the second piece looked as if i hadnt used enough melted plastic. Maybe try more plastic and making multiple molds of the same part to make sure your mold isnt damaged from removing the original part you're copying.
Well good thing I had experience in casting and sculpting in resin. The results of those methods may not be good but I think I could make something usable out of them. Probably gonna try it on the beam effect runners first since I really want to make giant beam sword effects for later customs.
so i melted down some gundam runners with acetone to make a replacement part i can not find anywhere and i was wondering do i have to let it dry for a very longtime to hard good because my first try the part came out very soft and was a nothing like the video lol
Yes, it takes a VERY long time to dry/harden. At least 24 hours. Even if the outside seems completely cured, the inside of the part may still be squishy.
I was trying to find a materials to make the mold at a local arts and crafts store. Like never dry modeling cay or air dry clay or silcone 2 step mix for molding if you don't mind can you give me a suggestion
From videos I’ve seen, when you made the silicone mold for the cast, you didn’t use a vacuum sealer to get rid of the bubbles in the silicone. I think that’s why there’s always gonna be bubbles. Maybe even vacuum seal your resin too but idk bout that
I see a few people suggesting a 2 piece mold and from years of working in plastic mold manufacturing plants I would suggest the same while also using a stronger mold like hot glue or even an epoxy based mold along with the injection method you have going. yuo can use a glass or metal drinking straw for the runner port. The only question I have to it would be if the chemicals would have a negative effect.
I would not recommend using hot glue to make the mold. I tested some hot glue on a spare piece from a 30 minutes missions kit and it's nearly impossible to remove from the surface
Perhaps using a two part m9ld to allow "painting in" a layer of plastic to act as a thin shell before adding in more plasric to bulk out the structure.
So i think what you need to do is add multiple injection points into the mold and an exhausting holes or gates to vent the trap air when injecting. Use any runner tree to make use for injections and venting paths.
So how should I go about if im using oyumaru as mold? If I use a paperclip to create exhaust port should I remove it before I fill both halves with sprue goo or after?
@hieuduong2213 paper clip might be too small, maybe like a straight 3mm sectiong from a runner with a gate at the end attached. Similar to the parts when they come on the runner.
I tried melt the runner using candle in the metal plate that usually use for paint. It formed a nice round plastic. Am still looking for way to cast something more useful
I have a video on oyumaru: ruclips.net/video/gEdFcaTIe3Q/видео.htmlsi=T-9VNyaj5ruR81D2 But even better is my review of Silinot, a reusable silicone mold alternative: ruclips.net/video/fMf_ocnS9og/видео.htmlsi=CcEuu0QU3_H0FlIP
What about getting a candle warmer? Just put the parts in a Pyrex dish sitting on a candle warmer and turn it on. Very slow warming with indirect heat. Shouldn't burn or bubble and will give you liquid plastic with no solvent.
Should learn making mold using dental flask/bantam flask. That's how dental technician make denture mold for acrylic dentures. I'm not yet on the point of making duplicates of parts. But if it comes to that. That's what I will do.
What about thermal melting?? Use that glass syringe but warm it up before any plastic goes near it and suck up hot molten plastic then inject into your mold
If you still have those warped parts, you can probable still use them as old or damaged gundam parts, or build an entire Gunpal figure from them, but as old or destroyed background pieces too XD
You can definitely use the Tamiya Cement. Melt time depends on how much plastic you are melting, how small you cut it beforehand and amount of cement, but anywhere from 4-6 hours usually. I recommend closing the container somehow to accelerate the process and save cement, as it will begin to evaporate in open air
Yeah but trying to find STL files for exactly what you're looking for is like a needle in a haystack more often than not. And as far as making custom files... I don't know how folks do it, I've tried my hand at some basic stuff and it's was super confusing lol. Never have found a dummies guide for it yet
Looking to the injection molding system you're going the right path but you should always introduce at least 40 to 50% new plastic using the old plastic which has been melted down will never give you true consistency if you can try using it tumbler system or heating system to melt the plastic take a look at how people make their own filament for 3D printers that should answer a lot of your questions
i know this is and old video, and i have yet to look to see if there is an updated version, but would a vacuum chamber or pressure pot help get rid of bubbles like with resin?
@@MidnightHatter I've cracked the code, I figured out how to get rid of the bubbles. You have to thinly oil the mould, then "paint" the mould with the filler goo (you have to only add a small amount of plastic to the glue for this step.) Let that harden until you have a thin shell like coating on the inside of the mould. Then further thinn the goo with acetone and fill the part to thickness and let dry. Once removed you will notice a smooth finish on the exterior of the part. I've had best results with parts that come in two halfs and doing open half molds.
Definitely. I've only recently started using oyumaru for resin but it should work just as well for melted runners (provided you don't get bubble like I did)
I feel like you should only use plastic cement and make them thinner cause I thing your other one were too thick and the injection technique would have work if it were thinner Edit: I was wondering if you could make another vid like this but with thinner runner goo I would really like to see what happens I can’t do the experiment myself cause I just ran out of plastic cement and don’t have cash to buy more plastic cement and or Tamiya airbrush cleaner
Never reuse acetone rendered plastic. The quality of the plastic dimensions every time you do it. you need to use this little acetone as possible in a in a sealed container and let it sit for several days. curing the molds in a super cool environment to prevent pockmarks. If the acetone evaporates too fast it creates bubbles. Try investing in a scientific hot plate with super accurate temperature control. With a pour mold and hot melt plastic your copy's will be much better off and easier to finish.
not bad dude. thanks for the hack tips for me, i dont care for bubble. it can be fix with some work of sandpaper and filling with putty (or with that melted spure) you can painted after all, in that case for shoulder zaku of course doing some project like this with acetone it require mask to do it, the fume is dangerous for lung
I have no clue why you wouldn't just use putty and paint it. He went through days upon days of work plus a massive cost to make this video all for naught. There are very cheap and easy ways to replicate parts already.
Generally speaking, yes, if I cast the parts in resin. Unfortunately the melted runners will never totally fill a mold. I found this video that attempted a much less complex mold than I did and he got just as poor results: ruclips.net/video/1O-MSfI73SY/видео.html
@@MidnightHatter when my oyumaru arrive i Will try and see what happen, if you try this again maybe try to let dry a little time the melt plástico before put in the mold
This is a well-made and informative video, so I don't want to dislike it, but you totally clickbaited us all with that title. Best of luck though, I hope someone can figure out a more consistent process for this in the future.
@@MidnightHatter Thinking about this further you could probably collect the runners, and make a mold of an entire Zaku or other Grunt model using this method. Then using a blow torch to partially melt the suit or soldering iron cut the molds up into pieces. You could use the destroyed suits as part of a Moc to make your Gundams look more badass.
It will never get better, this hobby has been around 50 years and the runner putty technique has been around just as long. As he mentions eventually the method just does not work because of the changes done to the thermoplastic.
You have to add a cream of tartar to the acetone/p.cement runner mixture. This is the secret for anybody actually looking
Explain? I have to know more lol
I would like to know more about this, since I have a part that has broken that is not easy to replace.
Ummm all I saw were perfect replicas of battledamaged Zaku shoulders. Toss those puppies in a deserted ruin city diorama and you got yourself a battlefield
A whole bunch of them in one place makes me think of someone collecting scalps or trophies from downed units - like how feudal lords would put heads on pikes. Seriously territorial Mad Max level vibes if done right.
@@osakanone a hangar of trophies
I was thinking the same thing. If you like building warlike models, there's your unlimited Gunpla.
Word creativity at its finest
This is the way.
I read somewhere that to avoid getting bubbles you keep your molds on something that shakes slightly or vibrates while it's curing this helps the mold to settle better and helps the air bubbles to move to the top I guess
And ultrasonic cleaner would do the job, just secure the molds after poured and turn it on
Or a vaccum pressure box
I did a lot of testing with solvents dissolving plastics for various uses. Acetone is too "hot" of a solvent and evaporates very fast. This causes internal micro bubbles and make parts brittle and discolors the plastic. Use a "slower" solvent eg. Lacquer thinner. You used hobby cement which is a slower solvent. Your putty is too thick and you will not get it into all the crevices. 2 parts mold is better and you can apply thin layers and build up the part. Kind of like slush casting. Pour a watery solution into the mold and get it into all the crevasses. let it dry. This get the surface details. After tat you can putty the rest or build up in layers. It doesn't matter how because it won't affect the surface details.
People get better results using Oyumaru ( Blue Stuff) because it is a stiffer rubber than silicone. Much better with pushing putty into the mold to get the shape. Silicone is too soft and deforms. Silicone is best suited for pouring.
Note: Dissolved plastic in solvents will shrink over time. Not ideal for thick parts.
Personally I would go with resin or epoxy putty that cures chemically instead of evaporation unless you need to fix a straight build with the same plastic and color.
At this point, probably easier (Although more expensive) to just 3D print the part.
You're not wrong!
The hard part there I guess would be making the 3D model, though I guess there are a lot of good 3D scanners today that accurately recreate the parts.
@@zkace scanners can be expensive
Not everyone can afford a printer though
Easy to say, hard to find the parts, rn I need one of the white parts from the backpack of an MG 1/100 Barbatos because I broke it like an idiot when I took it out from the runner, it still holds into place without any glue tho but I can't stand the thought a broken piece is on my first ever Barbatos:((. Luckly I have a friend with a 3D printer and he has a scanner too, hopefully it will work scanning the other piece and print it since they're both the same, he didn't use the scanner yet but we'll see what we can do this this Sunday.
I genuinely found this video inspirational. I’m glad you’ve kept at it.
Thanks! I still haven’t given up!!
Have you thought about using a heat gun? I know that using a heat gun can eliminate some if not all the air bubbles in other things.
I've seen this done successfully multiple times in a gunpla facebook group im in, however the guy that does it refuses to share his methods, he just says he melted the runner and made copies and that's as far as I know. I suspect he uses either clay or oyomaru blue stuff to make his molds though
What group is it?
They use Oyumaru Blue stuff as the Mold
have you tried to cast an entire model kit out of silicone while the parts were still on the runners?
I just bought my first gunpla kit after a 25 year hiatus. I haven't even put it together yet and I'm already watching videos about molding my own pieces. Talk about cart before horse. Man... My wife is going to hate me when suddenly our house is overrun with little plastic robots.
Hahaha, my wife hasn’t left me yet. There’s hope!
Lol, dang. Wishful thinking with the title. At least you did the trial and error for us. 😁
I recommend a two sided mold, because you are not having to force the melted plastic inside the silicone rather using a more melted and liquid base resin.
I think your failed casts look GREAT as battle damaged pieces 👍👍
The definitely do! It may be cool to make a few swappable armor pieces for a damaged suit!
im pondering that this process might work pretty well if after youve melted it down you then use a perfectly flat tool or surface to press it into a plaplate
Bluestuff and epoxy putty would probably be the easies diy at home way to do this if you are wanting a "perfect" part. or bakers clay works too but that would probably cause weight issues on some parts.
What ratio of plastic to acetone did you use to get the taffy consistency? I have an idea of using this method to roll out flat sheets to make home made pla-plate.
It was a lot more acetone. Probably 2 to 1 to cover it all. But I have since learned what I did wrong. I expect we'll talk about it on stream today.
Seems like it might be necessary to add some more additives to help preserve the structure.
Im currently experimenting with melting runners down to make duplicate parts, as of right now iv had two fails. I know one of them failed mostly because the mold i made wasnt quite up to snuff, the second piece looked as if i hadnt used enough melted plastic. Maybe try more plastic and making multiple molds of the same part to make sure your mold isnt damaged from removing the original part you're copying.
Please figure this out. Please. Great video. Thank you for your trials and tribulations.
Yeah, this could be useful for translucent parts if perfected
Yo, I recommend getting a drill master heat gun. It melts plastic quickly and isn't gonna ruin your lungs
Finished in a timely manner (he wont)
Boy I feel that.
Try placing the mold in an air vacuum if you can find one, it might help reduce bubbles
Well good thing I had experience in casting and sculpting in resin. The results of those methods may not be good but I think I could make something usable out of them. Probably gonna try it on the beam effect runners first since I really want to make giant beam sword effects for later customs.
thank you very much for the video, a question for the very small pieces, how do you recommend doing?
Complex double boiler? Wouldn't a Au Bain Marie setup work? I'm sure you've got a glass bowl and a sauce pan at home to try it with
I have a question. Can you make two pieces mold using plaster/gypsum powder? Silicone is kind hard to get in my place.
I’ve never tried it, but I don’t see why not.
Do you have any solution? Because i really need to copy my missing gundam part.
so i melted down some gundam runners with acetone to make a replacement part i can not find anywhere and i was wondering do i have to let it dry for a very longtime to hard good because my first try the part came out very soft and was a nothing like the video lol
Yes, it takes a VERY long time to dry/harden. At least 24 hours. Even if the outside seems completely cured, the inside of the part may still be squishy.
I'm also using never dry modeling clay to make the mold not sure if it was a good idea but the first two attempts I didn't let dry long enough
I was trying to find a materials to make the mold at a local arts and crafts store. Like never dry modeling cay or air dry clay or silcone 2 step mix for molding if you don't mind can you give me a suggestion
you can just heat it up slightly also in the microwave helps with making it more runny works wonders
From videos I’ve seen, when you made the silicone mold for the cast, you didn’t use a vacuum sealer to get rid of the bubbles in the silicone. I think that’s why there’s always gonna be bubbles. Maybe even vacuum seal your resin too but idk bout that
Your techniques are good, it's your mould that wasn't perfect ;)
Thanks for this video. I thought I was one of the few thinking of this idea. Definitely gonna try my hand at it as well.
I think if you sand it down it will look smooth and scribe the details
I see a few people suggesting a 2 piece mold and from years of working in plastic mold manufacturing plants I would suggest the same while also using a stronger mold like hot glue or even an epoxy based mold along with the injection method you have going. yuo can use a glass or metal drinking straw for the runner port. The only question I have to it would be if the chemicals would have a negative effect.
I would not recommend using hot glue to make the mold. I tested some hot glue on a spare piece from a 30 minutes missions kit and it's nearly impossible to remove from the surface
@@verticaltoast2488water as a mold release
Perhaps using a two part m9ld to allow "painting in" a layer of plastic to act as a thin shell before adding in more plasric to bulk out the structure.
So i think what you need to do is add multiple injection points into the mold and an exhausting holes or gates to vent the trap air when injecting.
Use any runner tree to make use for injections and venting paths.
So how should I go about if im using oyumaru as mold? If I use a paperclip to create exhaust port should I remove it before I fill both halves with sprue goo or after?
@hieuduong2213 paper clip might be too small, maybe like a straight 3mm sectiong from a runner with a gate at the end attached. Similar to the parts when they come on the runner.
You have to put it in a vaccum to get rid of the air bubbles
I tried melt the runner using candle in the metal plate that usually use for paint. It formed a nice round plastic. Am still looking for way to cast something more useful
2:26 Ayo, where’s that clip from?
those imperfect molds can be used for battle damaged parts
Do you have the video to make the mold/silicone blue thing? I wanna make some custom parts
I have a video on oyumaru: ruclips.net/video/gEdFcaTIe3Q/видео.htmlsi=T-9VNyaj5ruR81D2
But even better is my review of Silinot, a reusable silicone mold alternative: ruclips.net/video/fMf_ocnS9og/видео.htmlsi=CcEuu0QU3_H0FlIP
@@MidnightHatter I’m trying to combine three Gunpla together and rn this seems to be my only solution.
Curious what kind of ventilation you got going on.
how about if you use it as a the liquid material for 3d printing? are they both the same type?
I had an idea well watching this idk if it would work but let's say you melt it all down and make it into a sheet similar to plaplate?
are you sure its got nothing to do with how long you let it cure and the temperature of your room?
What about getting a candle warmer? Just put the parts in a Pyrex dish sitting on a candle warmer and turn it on. Very slow warming with indirect heat. Shouldn't burn or bubble and will give you liquid plastic with no solvent.
Stay tuned, I’m working just that idea 😉
Should learn making mold using dental flask/bantam flask. That's how dental technician make denture mold for acrylic dentures. I'm not yet on the point of making duplicates of parts. But if it comes to that. That's what I will do.
Now that’s a clever idea.
what if you pour resin into those molds, would that work?
What about thermal melting?? Use that glass syringe but warm it up before any plastic goes near it and suck up hot molten plastic then inject into your mold
If you still have those warped parts, you can probable still use them as old or damaged gundam parts, or build an entire Gunpal figure from them, but as old or destroyed background pieces too XD
That’s a great idea!
@@MidnightHatter this was what sold me to getting gunpal for the longest time XD
ruclips.net/video/HAJ6ElZoDl8/видео.htmlsi=YpYOPV8HqbCB19zW
1.can i use 20ml tamiya cement (yellow)?
2.how long it takes to "melt"??
You can definitely use the Tamiya Cement. Melt time depends on how much plastic you are melting, how small you cut it beforehand and amount of cement, but anywhere from 4-6 hours usually. I recommend closing the container somehow to accelerate the process and save cement, as it will begin to evaporate in open air
$500 elegoo saturn. Prints in 4k with submilimeter accuracy. It would be alot faster and easier on you.
Yeah but trying to find STL files for exactly what you're looking for is like a needle in a haystack more often than not. And as far as making custom files... I don't know how folks do it, I've tried my hand at some basic stuff and it's was super confusing lol. Never have found a dummies guide for it yet
hmmmm but you can make some pretty sick stuff though. like weapons, diorama parts
Looking to the injection molding system you're going the right path but you should always introduce at least 40 to 50% new plastic using the old plastic which has been melted down will never give you true consistency if you can try using it tumbler system or heating system to melt the plastic take a look at how people make their own filament for 3D printers that should answer a lot of your questions
How about sandwich type molds? You know, where you need to apply pressure?
i know this is and old video, and i have yet to look to see if there is an updated version, but would a vacuum chamber or pressure pot help get rid of bubbles like with resin?
Oh yes a pressure pot will 100% get rid of the bubbles in resin. Doesn't do anything for melted runners though.
@@MidnightHatter I've cracked the code, I figured out how to get rid of the bubbles.
You have to thinly oil the mould, then "paint" the mould with the filler goo (you have to only add a small amount of plastic to the glue for this step.) Let that harden until you have a thin shell like coating on the inside of the mould.
Then further thinn the goo with acetone and fill the part to thickness and let dry.
Once removed you will notice a smooth finish on the exterior of the part.
I've had best results with parts that come in two halfs and doing open half molds.
Hi, do you think this would still work if you used oyumaru for the mold?
Definitely. I've only recently started using oyumaru for resin but it should work just as well for melted runners (provided you don't get bubble like I did)
Thanks! I've been trying to come up with ways to use up the left over plastic and this vid has been pretty helpful.
I feel like you should only use plastic cement and make them thinner cause I thing your other one were too thick and the injection technique would have work if it were thinner
Edit: I was wondering if you could make another vid like this but with thinner runner goo I would really like to see what happens I can’t do the experiment myself cause I just ran out of plastic cement and don’t have cash to buy more plastic cement and or Tamiya airbrush cleaner
How do you make polycaps?
I really like two part molds when it comes to trying to do something like this
This is a cool idea. I hope to see more experiments.
Never reuse acetone rendered plastic. The quality of the plastic dimensions every time you do it. you need to use this little acetone as possible in a in a sealed container and let it sit for several days. curing the molds in a super cool environment to prevent pockmarks. If the acetone evaporates too fast it creates bubbles. Try investing in a scientific hot plate with super accurate temperature control. With a pour mold and hot melt plastic your copy's will be much better off and easier to finish.
I would totally love to see how you make molds.
Tell me sir glue your using in video?
what could i use for the molds???
Silicone rubber is the best choice but it is not cheap. There are a lot of things I would do differently if I did this experiment today.
Sprew goo is a good thing to have on hand lol
not bad dude. thanks for the hack tips
for me, i dont care for bubble. it can be fix with some work of sandpaper and filling with putty (or with that melted spure)
you can painted after all, in that case for shoulder zaku
of course doing some project like this with acetone it require mask to do it, the fume is dangerous for lung
Great video! Awesome you experimented so much! You are a winner!
What if you go over the finished product with thin cement to melt and smooth out the imperfections?
I have no clue why you wouldn't just use putty and paint it. He went through days upon days of work plus a massive cost to make this video all for naught. There are very cheap and easy ways to replicate parts already.
Finally I can fix a broken peg
Will a 2 part mold work?
Sorry for asking I'm new to this
Generally speaking, yes, if I cast the parts in resin. Unfortunately the melted runners will never totally fill a mold. I found this video that attempted a much less complex mold than I did and he got just as poor results: ruclips.net/video/1O-MSfI73SY/видео.html
Ty for taking time to reply
Title is clickbaity, the concept if interesting and its fun to see the effort.
Doing it in a vacuum would prolly fix your air bubble problem
You looks like you used the thin type have you tried using heavier duty plastic cements?
I haven’t! Perhaps that would make the difference?
It turned a small runner in toothpaste in 6 minutes
I have an idea for you have you tried cutting the runners into really really small pieces smaller than the ones in the video
Like about the size of a rg pilot figure
You can make this with oyumaru beside a silicone mold?
I would say probably not. The plastic would fuse together I think. Silicone doesn’t stick.
@@MidnightHatter when my oyumaru arrive i Will try and see what happen, if you try this again maybe try to let dry a little time the melt plástico before put in the mold
@@MidnightHatter i found this video maybe you can take some ideas ruclips.net/video/1O-MSfI73SY/видео.html
I see he had similar issues as I did, but a vice grip with a harder mold isn’t a bad idea... 🤯
I use resin and Oyumaru to recast parts with great success.
I tested double boiler......
and the double boiler can't be used with food anymore
😂
with what liquid did you melt it
First I tried acetone, then plastic cement.
This is a well-made and informative video, so I don't want to dislike it, but you totally clickbaited us all with that title. Best of luck though, I hope someone can figure out a more consistent process for this in the future.
While not useful for you. I’m pretty sure I can use this to patch my broken beam saber. So thanks.
I’ll take that as a win
@@MidnightHatter Thinking about this further you could probably collect the runners, and make a mold of an entire Zaku or other Grunt model using this method. Then using a blow torch to partially melt the suit or soldering iron cut the molds up into pieces. You could use the destroyed suits as part of a Moc to make your Gundams look more badass.
Yes please teach me how tow make li
DAMN!!! I was excited to do this but it's a fluc
uhmmm ... i think the problem not lies on the recycle abs... but yea... the recycle wont be as fluid nor as accurate compare to the 1st
melt it with heat instead
I least you tried
I'd love to see your method the more we can see the better we can all refine it
It will never get better, this hobby has been around 50 years and the runner putty technique has been around just as long. As he mentions eventually the method just does not work because of the changes done to the thermoplastic.
And may be you have not youse a lot of tameya seman dan dat might got the results for the parts 😅😅😅😅
Man the title is such click bait
@@imsilverahuman4108 you mean what he fails at attempting? He doesn’t cast any new parts from the runners. Nothing useable.
Hi hi hi man go youse a 3d prienter
maybe use resin and put in a vaucum pot. to pull the air our. try that on a silicone mold as well to maybe get a better mold of the part