right on tec tube,,,, in my books you get a 100% rating for thoroughness and knowledge , Most of the tube posts on this subject are really terrible!!! on all counts! , poor vid or audio quality , and often the presenters are less familiar with the subject than I even, even presenting false or/and dangerous information ,,,,,, believe me I've watched a crap-ton of them before finding yours! Again KUDOS!!! and THANKS!!!! :))) ............................................ BTW, is "Tec Tube" is your channel a corporate/commercial venture or an individual enterprise? ,,,,,,,,, Nvr mind i looked up "tecmungo" ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If I was near your geographic locale "Temperature Equipment Corporation (TEC)would definitely be getting my business and referrals
Thanks for the endorsement. We have been a Carrier distributor in the Chicago area since 1935 and have since expanded to locations in 7 states between our two major wholesale divisions: Temperature Equipment Corp. & National Excelsior Co.
My board lists "gas heat" "high" and "low". I always see it everywhere else as heat cool and fan. High is empty. I am guessing low would be considered cool and fan?
Damn! Brand new home with way too much air flow downstairs....HVAC guy he can’t lower the speed... Ridiculous amount of air flow/ annoying! Is static pressure the reason, we can’t lower the blower?
Why can't he lower the speed? Is it because he doesn't how? Is it because he already lowered it to the lowest setting it goes to? Is it because it needs to be set higher to accommodate the airflow required by the outdoor unit?
We also just realized you said "too much airflow downstairs." Can we also assume that means you have enough airflow upstairs? If that is the case, you may not need a lower blower speed. Instead they need to do an airflow balance. This would involve measuring the CFM at each register and then adjusting its manual volume damper down until you get to the correct CFM for that register.
Balance issue. We want more cold air upstairs in summer, and more warm air downstairs in winter, no good way for a house. In commercial building we have motorized damper control. I wish to have some like that in house. LOL
I had what I thought was a bad motor bearing when in fact it was the blower wheel. It was very noisy and sounded like it was going to explode. Now after replacing both the motor and blower wheel my furnace is noisy in AC mode (not the same clanky noise but air noisy.) I only have the W connections on my furnace so I have attached black to cool and blue for heat with 3 spares. Not sure what to do next. Very frustrating. Furnace is only 6 years old.
I have a Carrier Performance 96 59TP6 and have had my blower motor changed once (was under warranty but had to pay $209 to have installed) same issue after new one was installed. Mine makes a very loud rumbling noise when the blower is shutting down and gliding to a stop. Apparently it is VERY common for non-Carrier techs to replace these motors with a simple speed blower. I would do this for sure because they are cheap, however the whole reason I purchased this furnace was for the claimed dehumidification cooling function....
I have a furnace with the ECM motor, exactly as on the video, I am trying to lower the speed of the circulating fan, when only in fan mode. Currently, in Fan mode, the speed is exactly the same as in cool mode. I am trying to lower that down to the same speed as in Heat mode so that we have lower airspeed and to quiet down the system. How do I do that and which wires should I change without affecting the Cool speed mode?
There are 3 mode terminals on the furnace circuit board (heat, cool, and fan) and 2 spare speeds. If one of the unused spare speeds is lower than the one you are currently using for the fan speed, you can swap them.
@@bluesdirt6555 Either the equipment is too big for the duct system or the blower is not set properly. Temperature rise MUST be measured. Blower speed is not set by sound.
We don’t believe that Dave ever had the red wire on the fan output and the blue on heat. But in either case, the colors of the wires are the different speeds that the motor can be told to run at. The words on the furnace board (heat 1, heat 2, fan, cool, etc) are the system modes.
Dave did show how to change speeds in this video toward the beginning. Simply switch the wire on any output to the fan speed wire that you want for that mode.
I have a deluxe blend air ii, it blows super hard and shuts off and on too often. If I just wanted it set to low all the time no matter the time of year, how do I set it to just super low all the time?
I have a question. A tech came by and one thing I asked him about was decreasing the blower speed since my unit(AC) was a bit too big and turned off too quickly. He had some trouble as he wasn't familiar with the furnace model and actually had to call their dealer/technician tech support line. They helped him figure it out, but in the end I just went with a thermostat that has swing settings and that makes it cycle normally. So he put the blower speed back up the high setting, but now it feels like the air coming through the vents is noticeably not as cool. So my question is, is there anything he could have done in the furnace to effect the actual temperature of the air, or is it something else?
The more your AC runs the more humidity that will be extracted. However, having blower speed too high will not allow much humidity to be extracted in fact is can cause more because it evaporates the water on the cooling coils and drip tray. Setting this can be hit and miss because: A) too slow fan speed rooms will not cool rooms well AND freeze up coils. B)Too fast fan speed you will end up with a cool - humid house.
The PG96VTA furnace adjusts the airflow on its own to achieve the appropriate heat rise. You can increase it with the dip switch to compensate for a bypass humidifer. But other than that, there is no adjustment, nor does there need to be. Why do you want to change the airflow for the heating mode?
From the manual: This furnace is capable of automatically providing proper airflow to maintain the temperature rise within the range specified on furnace rating plate. If temperature rise is outside this range, proceed as follows: a. Check gas input for low-- and high--heat operation. b. Check derate for altitude, if applicable. c. Check all return and supply ducts for excessive restrictions causing static pressure greater than 0.5--In. W.C. d. Ensure Comfort/Efficiency SW1--4 on furnace control is in OFF=Efficiency position when a bypass humidifier is used. See Fig. 38 for switch location. e. Verify correct model plug is installed.
I have a Carrier Performance 96 59TP6 and no techs in my area know anything about them. For 3 years since installed in the winter the low speed blower (Which is the only speed used for the most part because I keep my heat set and don't change more than 1-2 degrees) is too low so have cold parts in the house (this house was sprayed foamed so it is sealed very well). I have been through the service manual 40 times trying to figure it out. The manual is very clear with dealing with the cooling blower speeds, but the heat blower speeds it is not at all. It lacks the basic information needed as to: HOW TO GET DESIRED CFM ON THE CHART. I am about to either pull the variable speed motor and put in a single speed (which the tech told me is very common) or just install a new furnace. I would give ANYTHING right now to have only the wires for different blower speeds...Any help? Carrier does not provide customer service tech support....
It is pretty odd that your tech cannot figure it out. It is even more odd that he is telling your to replace the motor with a different style... on a furnace that he provided and installed to begin with. What company does he work for?
We are not sure which manual you are using, but all of the manuals are publicly available at carrier.hvacpartners.com/products/detail/59TP6. Look at the installation manual, not the homeowner's manual. Page 23 of the Nov.2019 manual shows which dip switch settings yield which CFM airflow at various static pressures. Your tech needs to measure the external static pressure of the system with his manometer, which is everything except the furnace, such as the evaporator coil, filter, and ductwork. Look down that static column on the chart for the required/desired CFM, and then set it for those dip switches.
Keep the panel open temporary, start heating, when blower run (1st stage low speed), use jumper wire connect W1 & W2, so furnace run on 2nd stage, see if blower run faster.
If you have part area cold in winter, it is NOT because the blower running too low, it is because the air flow distributed to that area is too low. I have the same issue. Since I don't want to break basement ceiling and run a bigger duct, I just add a electric heater in winter.
Great "narration" but you really need to be aware of camera and hand position. You can also move the harness if you are attempting to show the audience something on the board.
This is basic knowledge to hvac service techs, you learn it in hvac 101, which leads me to believe this little video is directed at " Bob the homeowner" very dangerous especially when Bob has a gas furnace and he's in there making adjustments.
We are aiming some of these "basics videos" towards new techs and as refreshers. Many customers in our territory value these videos. There is a reason we haven't done gas valve pressure settings or anything that connects to a refrigerant line. You need not worry my friend. We have this covered. If Bob "DIY Guy" Builder wants to watch, so be it.
I am working on a tenant complaint about AC cooling not being good enough. This is for a an upstairs duplex apartment unit. The evap is getting nice and cold-maybe too cold. I think the fan speed for the cool is too low. Right now the cool for the motor is on the BLUE (Med-Low). And the heat is on YELOW (Med-High). I alway heard that the cool speed should generally be faster than the heat speed, so Im going to switch the two so the cool is Med-High and the heat is Med-Low. Will this help solve my cooling issue?
Generally we like using the lowest cooling speed possible because it provides the best dehumidification. The only reason to increase it would be to get air to a farther duct run. When that is done, it should be part of an overall air balancing strategy that also includes measuring CFM at each register (and comparing it to the required CFM for that room) and using the manual balancing dampers to throttle down the airflow to rooms that are getting too much (which will force air to the other zones).
You should also look into sealing the duct system. If it is leaky... as many systems are... then increasing the airflow at the furnace mostly increases the leakage and you still struggle to get air to the room you want. Check out a solution called Aeroseal.
This video is applicable to furnaces from Carrier, Bryant, Payne, WeatherMaker, Heil, Day & Night, Tempstar, KeepRite, Kenmore, Airquest, Arcoaire, and Comfortmaker. American Standard is manufactured by Trane and we are not too familiar with that brand. The general principles will be the same, however. There are only so many types of motor options available to furnace manufacturers.
@@bluesdirt6555 If you have a special "communicating wall control," instead of a thermostat, then yes you would go into the programming of the stat to change airflow for both heating and cooling modes. This is not common, though, and especially not common for 80% efficient furnaces. For the brands we listed above, you would do this with an Infinity, Evolution, or Ion wall control. For American Standard, it would likely be their AccuLink 850 or 1050 wall controls (but we are guessing because we don't know that brand too well).
@@TECTubefilms I’m guessing this has a DC motor and it ramps up and at full speed sounds like a jet engine . I’m not happy with it at all . I just wanted simple on ,and off . It also has a loud transformer noise.
So if i want just to change the starting speed and low on my carrier 80%afue without an ac unit do i do blue and red just as you demonstrated please advise
You would need to check the install manuals to make sure you specific installation scenario can handle the CFM you need to deliver at the static pressure of your duct system. Don't randomly change the speed without doing that homework first.
Only slow the motor down if you have verified that your specific furnace, A/C, and duct application can handle the lower airflow. If not, you will experience furnace high limit trips or condensing unit pressure lockouts.
![Eminem - Temporary (feat. Skylar Grey) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZaK9Wi5ho0o/mqdefault.jpg)
great video
right on tec tube,,,, in my books you get a 100% rating for thoroughness and knowledge , Most of the tube posts on this subject are really terrible!!! on all counts! , poor vid or audio quality , and often the presenters are less familiar with the subject than I even, even presenting false or/and dangerous information ,,,,,, believe me I've watched a crap-ton of them before finding yours! Again KUDOS!!! and THANKS!!!! :))) ............................................ BTW, is "Tec Tube" is your channel a corporate/commercial venture or an individual enterprise? ,,,,,,,,, Nvr mind i looked up "tecmungo" ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If I was near your geographic locale "Temperature Equipment Corporation (TEC)would definitely be getting my business and referrals
Thanks for the endorsement. We have been a Carrier distributor in the Chicago area since 1935 and have since expanded to locations in 7 states between our two major wholesale divisions: Temperature Equipment Corp. & National Excelsior Co.
We have two houses same size same style ..but in one house my vents blow lot of air ,and in my another house it’s slow ..any recommendations..thanks
My board lists "gas heat" "high" and "low". I always see it everywhere else as heat cool and fan. High is empty. I am guessing low would be considered cool and fan?
Damn! Brand new home with way too much air flow downstairs....HVAC guy he can’t lower the speed...
Ridiculous amount of air flow/ annoying! Is static pressure the reason, we can’t lower the blower?
Why can't he lower the speed? Is it because he doesn't how? Is it because he already lowered it to the lowest setting it goes to? Is it because it needs to be set higher to accommodate the airflow required by the outdoor unit?
We also just realized you said "too much airflow downstairs." Can we also assume that means you have enough airflow upstairs? If that is the case, you may not need a lower blower speed. Instead they need to do an airflow balance. This would involve measuring the CFM at each register and then adjusting its manual volume damper down until you get to the correct CFM for that register.
Balance issue. We want more cold air upstairs in summer, and more warm air downstairs in winter, no good way for a house. In commercial building we have motorized damper control. I wish to have some like that in house. LOL
I had what I thought was a bad motor bearing when in fact it was the blower wheel. It was very noisy and sounded like it was going to explode. Now after replacing both the motor and blower wheel my furnace is noisy in AC mode (not the same clanky noise but air noisy.) I only have the W connections on my furnace so I have attached black to cool and blue for heat with 3 spares. Not sure what to do next. Very frustrating. Furnace is only 6 years old.
I have a Carrier Performance 96 59TP6 and have had my blower motor changed once (was under warranty but had to pay $209 to have installed) same issue after new one was installed. Mine makes a very loud rumbling noise when the blower is shutting down and gliding to a stop. Apparently it is VERY common for non-Carrier techs to replace these motors with a simple speed blower. I would do this for sure because they are cheap, however the whole reason I purchased this furnace was for the claimed dehumidification cooling function....
Great video. Is it possible to "share" the black wire with the cool and hi heath terminals?
I have a furnace with the ECM motor, exactly as on the video, I am trying to lower the speed of the circulating fan, when only in fan mode. Currently, in Fan mode, the speed is exactly the same as in cool mode. I am trying to lower that down to the same speed as in Heat mode so that we have lower airspeed and to quiet down the system. How do I do that and which wires should I change without affecting the Cool speed mode?
There are 3 mode terminals on the furnace circuit board (heat, cool, and fan) and 2 spare speeds. If one of the unused spare speeds is lower than the one you are currently using for the fan speed, you can swap them.
Just had a new system installed and and it is really noisy! Sounds like a jet engine
@@bluesdirt6555 Either the equipment is too big for the duct system or the blower is not set properly. Temperature rise MUST be measured. Blower speed is not set by sound.
i have a customer complaining that the new air handler i installed is too loud.what's the best fix? thanks!
What is the red-fan and the blue-heat.. explain that part please? Would you please explain how to change speeds
We don’t believe that Dave ever had the red wire on the fan output and the blue on heat. But in either case, the colors of the wires are the different speeds that the motor can be told to run at. The words on the furnace board (heat 1, heat 2, fan, cool, etc) are the system modes.
Dave did show how to change speeds in this video toward the beginning. Simply switch the wire on any output to the fan speed wire that you want for that mode.
Yeah didn't really show how to change the speeds just told you what each wire was
I have a deluxe blend air ii, it blows super hard and shuts off and on too often. If I just wanted it set to low all the time no matter the time of year, how do I set it to just super low all the time?
I have a question. A tech came by and one thing I asked him about was decreasing the blower speed since my unit(AC) was a bit too big and turned off too quickly. He had some trouble as he wasn't familiar with the furnace model and actually had to call their dealer/technician tech support line. They helped him figure it out, but in the end I just went with a thermostat that has swing settings and that makes it cycle normally. So he put the blower speed back up the high setting, but now it feels like the air coming through the vents is noticeably not as cool. So my question is, is there anything he could have done in the furnace to effect the actual temperature of the air, or is it something else?
I was told that a low air speed will cool better and remove more humidity and is more efficient.
The more your AC runs the more humidity that will be extracted. However, having blower speed too high will not allow much humidity to be extracted in fact is can cause more because it evaporates the water on the cooling coils and drip tray. Setting this can be hit and miss because: A) too slow fan speed rooms will not cool rooms well AND freeze up coils. B)Too fast fan speed you will end up with a cool - humid house.
What happens to superheat when you increase fan speed???
Not 100% follow. To change the speed of an X13 do you change the terminal on the motor or the circuit board?
circuit board
@@TECTubefilms Really?
@@JoseJB0 Yes really. Watch the middle section of this 3 part video.
I have a 2019 Payne furnace 96 efficient, with a ecm motor is there anyway to change heat speeds?
The PG96VTA furnace adjusts the airflow on its own to achieve the appropriate heat rise. You can increase it with the dip switch to compensate for a bypass humidifer. But other than that, there is no adjustment, nor does there need to be. Why do you want to change the airflow for the heating mode?
From the manual:
This furnace is capable of automatically providing proper airflow to maintain the temperature rise within the range specified on furnace rating plate. If temperature rise is outside this range, proceed as follows:
a. Check gas input for low-- and high--heat operation.
b. Check derate for altitude, if applicable.
c. Check all return and supply ducts for excessive restrictions causing static pressure greater than 0.5--In. W.C.
d. Ensure Comfort/Efficiency SW1--4 on furnace control is in OFF=Efficiency position when a bypass humidifier is used. See Fig. 38 for switch location.
e. Verify correct model plug is installed.
I have a Carrier Performance 96 59TP6 and no techs in my area know anything about them. For 3 years since installed in the winter the low speed blower (Which is the only speed used for the most part because I keep my heat set and don't change more than 1-2 degrees) is too low so have cold parts in the house (this house was sprayed foamed so it is sealed very well). I have been through the service manual 40 times trying to figure it out. The manual is very clear with dealing with the cooling blower speeds, but the heat blower speeds it is not at all. It lacks the basic information needed as to: HOW TO GET DESIRED CFM ON THE CHART. I am about to either pull the variable speed motor and put in a single speed (which the tech told me is very common) or just install a new furnace. I would give ANYTHING right now to have only the wires for different blower speeds...Any help? Carrier does not provide customer service tech support....
It is pretty odd that your tech cannot figure it out. It is even more odd that he is telling your to replace the motor with a different style... on a furnace that he provided and installed to begin with. What company does he work for?
We are not sure which manual you are using, but all of the manuals are publicly available at carrier.hvacpartners.com/products/detail/59TP6. Look at the installation manual, not the homeowner's manual. Page 23 of the Nov.2019 manual shows which dip switch settings yield which CFM airflow at various static pressures. Your tech needs to measure the external static pressure of the system with his manometer, which is everything except the furnace, such as the evaporator coil, filter, and ductwork. Look down that static column on the chart for the required/desired CFM, and then set it for those dip switches.
Keep the panel open temporary, start heating, when blower run (1st stage low speed), use jumper wire connect W1 & W2, so furnace run on 2nd stage, see if blower run faster.
If you have part area cold in winter, it is NOT because the blower running too low, it is because the air flow distributed to that area is too low. I have the same issue. Since I don't want to break basement ceiling and run a bigger duct, I just add a electric heater in winter.
Great "narration" but you really need to be aware of camera and hand position. You can also move the harness if you are attempting to show the audience something on the board.
This is basic knowledge to hvac service techs, you learn it in hvac 101, which leads me to believe this little video is directed at " Bob the homeowner" very dangerous especially when Bob has a gas furnace and he's in there making adjustments.
We are aiming some of these "basics videos" towards new techs and as refreshers. Many customers in our territory value these videos.
There is a reason we haven't done gas valve pressure settings or anything that connects to a refrigerant line.
You need not worry my friend. We have this covered. If Bob "DIY Guy" Builder wants to watch, so be it.
Im not bob the home owner im Joe Dirt the home owner and Im a DIY I reckon :), I like the'm vidio'sss
I am working on a tenant complaint about AC cooling not being good enough. This is for a an upstairs duplex apartment unit. The evap is getting nice and cold-maybe too cold. I think the fan speed for the cool is too low. Right now the cool for the motor is on the BLUE (Med-Low). And the heat is on YELOW (Med-High). I alway heard that the cool speed should generally be faster than the heat speed, so Im going to switch the two so the cool is Med-High and the heat is Med-Low. Will this help solve my cooling issue?
Generally we like using the lowest cooling speed possible because it provides the best dehumidification. The only reason to increase it would be to get air to a farther duct run. When that is done, it should be part of an overall air balancing strategy that also includes measuring CFM at each register (and comparing it to the required CFM for that room) and using the manual balancing dampers to throttle down the airflow to rooms that are getting too much (which will force air to the other zones).
You should also look into sealing the duct system. If it is leaky... as many systems are... then increasing the airflow at the furnace mostly increases the leakage and you still struggle to get air to the room you want. Check out a solution called Aeroseal.
My board doesn’t have those wires. It’s a new American Standard 80 percent .
This video is applicable to furnaces from Carrier, Bryant, Payne, WeatherMaker, Heil, Day & Night, Tempstar, KeepRite, Kenmore, Airquest, Arcoaire, and Comfortmaker.
American Standard is manufactured by Trane and we are not too familiar with that brand. The general principles will be the same, however. There are only so many types of motor options available to furnace manufacturers.
@@TECTubefilms I believe you have to go into the programming.
@@bluesdirt6555 If you have a special "communicating wall control," instead of a thermostat, then yes you would go into the programming of the stat to change airflow for both heating and cooling modes. This is not common, though, and especially not common for 80% efficient furnaces. For the brands we listed above, you would do this with an Infinity, Evolution, or Ion wall control. For American Standard, it would likely be their AccuLink 850 or 1050 wall controls (but we are guessing because we don't know that brand too well).
@@TECTubefilms I’m guessing this has a DC motor and it ramps up and at full speed sounds like a jet engine . I’m not happy with it at all . I just wanted simple on ,and off . It also has a loud transformer noise.
So if i want just to change the starting speed and low on my carrier 80%afue without an ac unit do i do blue and red just as you demonstrated please advise
You would need to check the install manuals to make sure you specific installation scenario can handle the CFM you need to deliver at the static pressure of your duct system. Don't randomly change the speed without doing that homework first.
not clear video while
so if i want to slow down the furnace motor i just change the red to spare blue n red to blue right
Only slow the motor down if you have verified that your specific furnace, A/C, and duct application can handle the lower airflow. If not, you will experience furnace high limit trips or condensing unit pressure lockouts.
@@TECTubefilms thanks for all this good info. It sucks having to call an HVAC company that wont come out for weeks when it is something this simple.
Dave were do work at
Temperature Equipment Corp in the midwest