I'm not far behind you, working on a 1951 Chevy. I've done this before years ago but this was helpful to encourage & jog the memory (3" roloc paint stripping disk on right angle air grinder also works well). Thanks for posting!
@@ThrottleStopRacing I skipped through the seat portion since I've already made sq tube mounts for some 1965 GM bucket seats. I'm not building a race car, more of an early '70s style hot rod - straight axle, 454, Doug Nash 5 spd - hope to finish before I pass away, lol. I really enjoy your videos on the 49, keep up the good work!
@@danh.122 That is why I put the time mark of the second half of the frame stripping at the beginning of the seat install. Keep working on your project, a little at a time and it will get there.
Good stuff, seat installation was smooth and good info on stripping options. Check into the contour tool by Eastwood. I found it a handy tool for stripping. Many wheel drums to choose from.
These foam paint strippers wear out also, but I like the way it leaves the metal and it goes MUCH quicker then a wire cup wheel. Thanks for the comment.
Great video as always. I am inspired and informed by your project. But there is no reason to use high strength fasteners to attach sheet metal to plastic. Zinc plated grade 5s are overkill enough. No slotted heads though! lol
It’s always good to see and learn techniques and things from you and your wife and the house remolding, thanks BigAl California
We will keep them comming. Frame powder coat is getting close.
I must commend you for your patience. Nice work ,very informative.thanks
Thank you for your comment.
Passenger seat looks good and the frame and firewall stripping is tedious but needs to be done for paint and powder coating. Well done
We are working on it. Hired a welder today to weld the frame. He starts on Monday and says two days.
I'm not far behind you, working on a 1951 Chevy. I've done this before years ago but this was helpful to encourage & jog the memory (3" roloc paint stripping disk on right angle air grinder also works well). Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the comment. Did you like the two in one video?
@@ThrottleStopRacing I skipped through the seat portion since I've already made sq tube mounts for some 1965 GM bucket seats. I'm not building a race car, more of an early '70s style hot rod - straight axle, 454, Doug Nash 5 spd - hope to finish before I pass away, lol.
I really enjoy your videos on the 49, keep up the good work!
@@danh.122 That is why I put the time mark of the second half of the frame stripping at the beginning of the seat install. Keep working on your project, a little at a time and it will get there.
Amazing stuff man! It's cool to see how far you go
or how crazy?
Good stuff, seat installation was smooth and good info on stripping options. Check into the contour tool by Eastwood. I found it a handy tool for stripping. Many wheel drums to choose from.
I'll do that. Keep up the good work on the Nova.
I've never had good luck with the wire cup brushes. The flat wire wheels work the best in my opinion, but they do wear out.
These foam paint strippers wear out also, but I like the way it leaves the metal and it goes MUCH quicker then a wire cup wheel. Thanks for the comment.
Great video as always. I am inspired and informed by your project. But there is no reason to use high strength fasteners to attach sheet metal to plastic. Zinc plated grade 5s are overkill enough. No slotted heads though! lol
It made me feel better, the sheet metal will fail before the bolts do. Thanks for the comment.
As Derek Dieri likes to call it, the ol' cheek poker.
I'm sorry I do not know the reference?
@ The star of Vice Grip Garage calls wire wheels cheek pokers.
@@kodak_jack I have watch several of there videos. Now I understand the reference.