Hi del Iv been a composite moulder since I left school 18 year’s ago and a bit of advice the amount of preparation you put in to making the pattern smooth going up to 3000 grit sand paper will be pointless with the amount of pva you used and the fact that you have not used a gel coat means you cannot rub the mould down to make it smooth agin you should have used a mould sealer and then just give it 4 waxes no pva and also you should have blocked the holes up as the glass and resin will seep though and lock your mould to your pattern if you do attempt making a mould again use a gel coat it will give you a much better finish if you need any help or advise please fill free to message me and I will help as much as possible
Ben, that is so kind of you, thank you so much for that sound advice, like i said, im totally in the dark with this and the first time at it.. so feeling my way and learning as i go. Its been great to have such helpful and sound advice from so many specialists at this, really helpful in the learning process and always good when embarking on a new skill set.. i certainly will drop you a line if i get stuck on this mate, you can be sure of that.. all the best and thanks again.. Del.
Just a question on this process if i may Ben, (reaching out already lol), it seems almost obligatory to use a Gel Coat for this in the final stage once i get there, so when 'You' do it, do you Gel coat first then allow that to cure, and then apply the matting and resin to the cured Gel Coat, ? Or, do you lay up over the wet Gel Coat layer?.. ( i ask it it seems obvious that the matting would push through the coat and touch the mould if it was still wet)..? just trying to be clear.! Thanks in advance buddy.. Del.
Yes the gel coat is an Essential part of the process an should be applied and left to cure before applying the matting and resin and also if you are going to use polyester resin it’s good practice to apply one or two Layers and then leave to cure fully then give it a good rubdown with 80grit sand paper and then apply more layers to slowly increase the thickness as polyester shrink as it cures so the thicker it is the hotter it gets the more it shrinks
great useful feedback there, not a job I've ever done so I'm watching with interest. Would it be adviseable then to fully drill out the holes before separating the mold from the plug? that might prevent the loss of the mold if it creates a lock?
Hi Del, I've been moulding GRP for about 20 years and want to pass on some knowledge to you. 1: Use PVA. Not sure what that aerosol you were using is, but it doesn't look like PVA. 2: WEIGH THE RESIN AND CATALYST (caps for emphasis of how important that is). 3: Tear the matting. 4: Less resin the better. 5: Use a roller to compress the layers. 6: Add a flange to the plug so the glass doesn't just hang over the edge. 7: Pre-wet the mat before applying. Looking forward to seeing the finished result.
Thanks for your great advices Steven, that's very much appreciated, I've bought myself some scales now and taken on board all the great advice we've been gifted by the laminating community... the biggest shock has been the cost of materials, there's so much to buy and it adds up to a truly expensive process!... But I'm in it now, so committed to the finish and I guess now I've truly learned why fibreglass motorcycle panels cost so much money, specially the carbon ones!! The carbon matting itself doesn't cost much, it's the process to create them, and I always just thought that carbon itself was expensive, bike panels are usually injection moulded which is clearly a less labour intensive process, anyway thanks again for the truly great advice, all taken on board! Next video will be an adventure and am sure will give you a smile :-)
Hey Del, great job on the plug. Ben Stapley's comments re: gelcoat and pva are spot on. Also use gelcoat on your finished item as it will give give you something to rub down without getting into the resin/glass. You can even tint the gelcoat to avoid the need for paint. If you have trouble with release try and get warm water between plug and mould as it will dissolve the pva. Also don't use pva on the mould for the finished item as it does adversely effect your finish on the item. Many coats of wax over a few days gives a much better result. You can use a syringe to measure the catalyst for accuracy. Keep up the good work, great to see you pushing yourself in new directions.
Thanks so much Bob, thats really helpful, i would have used the PVA in the final item, but i can see what you mean it could leave a pattern in the finish. i like the idea of gel coat, making a layer to keep the material away from the mould so i can sand it, which ill need to probably, ill be using Kevlar hopefully, aiming high i guess, and wouldn't want to expose the material making it hard to paint later.. Thanks again mate, all duly noted.. Cheers and have a good weekend.. Del.
Nice job. When measuring out your resin and hardener, you could use a digital scale in order to be sure you've got the ratios right. Always enjoy watching your creative mind at work...
@@Moonfleet41 or probably a large syringe for resin + a small one for activator.this way you can have measurable results. I am also planning to work with fiber glass sometimes and this is the way I would go for my learning process. Cheers
I love that you emended the conventional and inaccurate “practise makes perfect” to the less common but accurate “practise makes possible.” I’ve been trying for forty years, as a language teacher, football coach, and father, to get that false old chestnut out of circulation. I watch your channel, Del and Penny, as much for the life wisdom you share as for the excellent motorcycle content. Thank you. And “can’t” is a four-letter word. Cheers!
Thanks Guy, lots of old phrases pass into regular use over time but remain inaccurate, i agree. Thank you so much as ever for your kind and loyal support, and have a great weekend too.. D&Pxx
Coming along, a beauty, now. Have to admire your patience, for doing it. Not sure I could do it. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Keep it up, and always, much love to yourself and PP 🤩
You and me both Val, im not sure i could do this either, entered into it blind with zero experience, but nothing ventured aye... the mould release video will be worth a watch, and who knows how it will go from there.. but im getting lots of sound professional advice from lots of good people, so it'll only be down to me if i screw it up aye..lol..!
It's a long time since I did this myself (40 years ago and I only did it the once) but I seem to remember having to put a gel coat on the mould before the matting. I think you should check up on this. The steel version looks great on the bike, I'm sure the finished product will look just as good.
Yes indeed, among all the great help and advice coming in there have been a few mentioning Gel Coat.. so that will be part of the final cast when i get to it.!
Great work Del. You've bounced back from your recent 'inconvenience' and are firing on all cylinders again. Cant wait for the reveal .... 👍 Or should that be peel 🤔 😁
Hi Del its amazing how much effort you need to put in to make a really good mould. You always surprise me by the ways you just get stuck in and try things, it doesn't always work out. Great to see your bouncing back and getting on after your little rest. Hope the recovery is going as planned buddy. All the best SR
I hope it comes off OK, the thing is to ensure that there are no reverse angles on the mold otherwise the buck become locked in when the fibreglass sets off hard,. I think I would also have taped up the inside of the holes so that the resin did not penetrate the buck and cause locking plugs. good luck.
Thanks Richard, fortunately the wet matting didn't poke through the holes, just a slight bump which will form the reverse "a dent" in the finished item so ill be able to drill them out in the exact right place..
Bloody hell Del, I’d forgotten how time consuming fibre glassing can be, 30 years ago I made a belly pan for a Suzuki GS 750, made a really good job of it at the time, but haven’t done any since, good job mate, looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Cheers Del. 👍
Guy, I'm afraid it's not a teasing??? Del, I'm still learning with you, an interesting process. If the concern is that it will be difficult (or impossible) to separate the parts, then what about vents for releasing the vacuum? I'm afraid the plug lacks holes for air release.
I haven’t done fiberglass for years, just recently thinking doing again for repairs. Your way of doing it much easier than my time. Only thing I hated was the smell!! Lol… Kwel job DelBoy!!
Thanks buddy, it is a new experience for me, and im really enjoying learning a new skillset at the same time.. (and you're right, not keen on the smell either.)
@@Moonfleet41 .. you started out great.. the fiber you use different from my time. Ones I used was thick woven fiberglass cloth, not like your straight sheet.. thus, I like yours better, easier to manage.
Ripping ideas - If Pen waxes your bum with one of these kits, once she's managed to prise it off, you could have one of the comfiest bike seats ever made, trim the edges up a bit while she stops laughing & y'bum heals, job done : ) xx
Good work Del, very nice job. When you do your next one, I like to glass in some small wood batons on the outside and then make a frame for the mould to sit on when you are working on it, it also helps to pull the two pieces apart and helps keep the mould nice and firm when you lay up the final. Just a suggestion mate.
Thanks Jimmy, i have had that in the plan from the beginning, something to mount the mould on so it's firmly stood on the table and not falling about everywhere... and as for pulling the mould off the plug.. wait till the next video, i think you'll enjoy it..! Thanks for the tips mate, very much appreciated.
Hey Del, I've lost count of the times I've seen you try something new - and do great with it! I greatly admire your spirit of adventure and your persistence, and the mold is looking very nice. I look forward to Tuesday's episode... or should I call it a Release? All the best to both of you.
Wow, thank you John, that's very kind of you, i guess we learn best by doing new things and practicing, it may not ever make us experts, far from it, but its all great experience and an adventure indeed.. and yes, i think you'll rather enjoy Tuesday's 'release'... it'll be worth waiting for.. Have a great weekend and keep safe. D&Px
Good going Del . It's probably too late now but if you heat the inside of the plug when the mold is cured , the wax will partially liquify and the release will be easier .. ( you may well have done this already ) I made many Dormobile roofs as an apprentice they used to give us new baseball boots every time we went in the plastic shop ( pizza/ frisbee feet !) Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
Thanks for the tip Brother, you'll see how useful that tip could have been in the next video... but i can still use it in the final process, very sound and obvious advice indeed.. Keep safe and enjoy your weekend too, soon be Christmas (apparently !) D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 Can't be much help with Kevlar though .. that wasn't really a thing in 1984 ..at least not for camper vans ..so I'll be learning with you. 👍🏻☮♥️
@@springy-2112 No, it's a brand new one on me too, it doesn't stretch and push about like fiberglass, it like a fixed woven cloth with almost no give, soill be learning with every step myself..
Glass on some pieces of wood or even steel to the outside (rough side) before you try to break it away, it will give you extra hand holds to give you better leverage when you release the mould from the plug.
I really like how you tackle new challenges. It's a learning process, with you as well as your followers. Hope your are finally successful with your belly pan. Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Thanks Chris, im literally working blind on this, first time ever and pretty much all of the great advice has come in as im rolling along.. thanks for the gel coat tip, i makes sense for sure, and thankfully the finished item will be getting fully bodyworked and painted in the colours of the bike, so i have that flexibility this time... but you are right, next time making a mould it'd be great to make it even better..!
Thanks mate, i wanted to hang about and pull the mould too, but it was still curing over 2 hours later, but the next video will be worth the wait i can assure you..!
@@mattmckee396 That now contains 10 Sq Ft of matting and pretty much an entire liter (Kilo) of resin... it's about 6mm thick at least as i figure it would then be durable and strong enough to hold up to being mauled about to get it off, and stay in shape for the future big day when i actually use it to make the real belly pan.!
@@Moonfleet41 wow that’s alot of fiber glass I remember you saying 6 mil but may have missed the amount of sq footage of fiberglass. Thanks for the info. You are a real help and inspiration. Glad to see you back at it 100%
Pure wizardry, Del! When you’re finished up there with the wax, may I drop off my bike and car for 3 coats please? Thanks in advance! 😬. Have a great weekend there, and feel good! 🏍👍🏍
Thanks Gary, good to hear from you, with all the matt black bikes we own, it's been a while since I waxed anything and after 3 coats just on this mould, now I remember why! Have a good weekend too Sir, take care of both of you, D&Px
That is really cool. I saw someone using fiberglass on a kit car back in the late 80s. Never understood what they were doing, makes a little more sense now. I agree with Rik. Surfboards next.
Don't know why this thought hadn't come to mind before but I saw the Blue Peter sign in the background but in your case Del it hasn't been made before. I'm very intrigued to see what the final outcome is! I have never looked into this process before and if I had I would have looked forward to every single video episode to see your twist on it. God bless you Del and Penny xx
The plug is steel, and perhaps 5x heavier than the finished item, which will be kevlar, and surely on a lightweight bike that should be a consideration? And my time is free to me, so I don't care how long it takes!
Good initiative on doing the test piece. At least you know in theory it’ll work, although might be a little more awkward to slip the GF off of the plug due to the multiple angles. Not sure of the process, but would popping the whole thing in the freezer for an hour before removing the GF help with the removal process as the steel contracts ? Just a thought.
Thanks for your kind words Ken, learning as I go with this, I'm gonna invest in some scales as advised multiple times to get the mixture right next time, and as for the freezer, am not sure if that would work and sadly I won't be able to try as I don't have a freezer big enough to fit it in! One suggestion made was the other way round to actually warm up the plug from the inside, maybe with a hairdryer, to liquefy the wax, but check out the next video, it'll be well worth waiting for!
@@Moonfleet41 all your work from my watching your channel for some years now , it's all floorless. I really enjoy everything , sometimes I don't always comment , but I do give it a big thumbs up. Hope your health is getting better , please say hello to your good lady penny , not sure if you do mention,s. But myself Andy Richardson and my fabulous wife ( Joan Richardson would be very humbling if you could give a small hello,s on a video in the future I know your time is busy. We run a Facebook site called MP3 United Kingdom , that consists of over a 1000 members giving tips and advice to all . So sorry for babbling on. Take care to you both. ( Top fan )
I know this does not relate to this video but I can't find the one you did on oil blackening bolts. Can I blacken the head on my rear wheel spindle or will a localised blackening introduce stresses into the area potentially weakening it ?
Hi there Matthew, i would not heat your axle, exactly like you suggest, it could change it's integrity ! you can buy cold blackening chemicals if it's just for looks, i imagine it's not about rust as that shouldn't be an issue on the head of the axle..!
brother thats gonna come out awesome ! great job ! i cant wait for the final product ! it takes dedication to tackle a project like that 👍 keep up the great work ! cheers from new york!!!! stay safe guys !!!
Thank you brother, it'll be great if it comes out awesome, but I'll be grateful if it just comes out at all lol... check out the next video, it'll be worth waiting for... take care and keep safe both of you, D&Px
Brave soul working in the darks arts of fiberglass and resin. LOL I really admire the initiative to do this. I am sure the end result will be epic. Cheers! Mike & Melly
Hey Mike, thank you Sir, it is a dark art indeed, and a proper messy ol' time, certainly not something I'd do every day from choice! Once you're up and running in your new garage, I reckon this would be an option for Barney if you're gonna keep moving forward with that project, perhaps a cool tail unit?! Love to you both, have a fabulous weekend, D&Pxx
Could have done, but the problem is I can't actually get to them with the metal bracing on the back of the plug, they will make an indent in the mould so hopefully I can do it later!
Yeah, therapeutic with a hint of anxiety thrown in mate.. new to this so i didn't have any real practice to draw upon and naturally didn't want to louse it up on the first attempt..!
Great video as usual Del, Completely off topic question, on your Triumph build what double sided backing "stickies" did you use for the tank protection pads? Cheers
Sorry mate, it wasn't intentional, i wanted to pull the mould today but it was still hot and curing over 2 hours later... but i can assure you the next video will be worth the wait..
Thanks so much Mike, sorry i couldn't get to pull the mould in the same session, but it was still hot and curing a couple of hours later, so went with the patience route and stepped back from it... The next video will be interesting to say the least.. Have a great weekend buddy, and thanks for your kind support.. D&Pxx
Cheers buddy, wasn't intend to be, really wanted tp pull it on the same day (ooer!), but as you saw, sadly, it was still cooking after 2hrs so I had to cut and run and leave it there, tune in to the next video, it'll be worth the wait!
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it, it's still all to do and the next video will be worth the wait..! enjoy your weekend too and keep safe over there.. should be getting warm for you now..! !!!
I've always wondered about creating my own motorcycle bodywork from the existing fairings and bits that i have. Figured it would be cheaper for when i take a header off the bike at the track. Good to see someone giving it a shot and enjoying the process :)
With the experience of this so far, for myself, i'd say that taking your old bodywork, making moulds of those panels, and then making negatives of those moulds to fit to the bike... would probably cost more then just buying some old second hand panels from the bike breaker... the cost of materials is huge, so i don't think it'd be a money saving at all... lots of fun maybe.. but costly.! Have a great weekend Sir, keep safe and stay in touch. D&Pxx
Hi Buddy.. It should be here tomorrow or first thing Monday i recon, we've had about three parcels late this week, tyres for the bike took 3 days instead of overnight, the fiberglass kit i had to order for the next stage should have been here Thursday but got here this morning... Our local PO is a bit slow here... but ill drop you a line as soon as the Postie comes...! Thanks again buddy, and enjoy your weekend.. D&Pxx
You're right Sam, it is a long winded process and many layers of work go into it.. but yeah, i guess once you have a viable mould, you can make them over and over..!
Been watching your videos for a while now but I am finding your messages at the beginning on the board more and more confusing. They seem negative but in a positive kind of way? Sorry but am I missing a point? Keep up the cracking work and the videos
Hi there, the messages are designed to provoke a 'thought for the day', they're not my own work, we find them in many places and share them with our viewers, thanks for your engagement, we really appreciate your support.
Thank you so much kind Sir, it's good to be on the mend and slowly getting back to normal, the project is an excellent distraction that keeps me busy away from meds and hospital visits, something else to focus on.. Have a great weekend and keep safe sir .. Warmest Regards from us both.. D&Pxx
Hi del Iv been a composite moulder since I left school 18 year’s ago and a bit of advice the amount of preparation you put in to making the pattern smooth going up to 3000 grit sand paper will be pointless with the amount of pva you used and the fact that you have not used a gel coat means you cannot rub the mould down to make it smooth agin you should have used a mould sealer and then just give it 4 waxes no pva and also you should have blocked the holes up as the glass and resin will seep though and lock your mould to your pattern if you do attempt making a mould again use a gel coat it will give you a much better finish if you need any help or advise please fill free to message me and I will help as much as possible
Ben, that is so kind of you, thank you so much for that sound advice, like i said, im totally in the dark with this and the first time at it.. so feeling my way and learning as i go. Its been great to have such helpful and sound advice from so many specialists at this, really helpful in the learning process and always good when embarking on a new skill set.. i certainly will drop you a line if i get stuck on this mate, you can be sure of that.. all the best and thanks again.. Del.
Just a question on this process if i may Ben, (reaching out already lol), it seems almost obligatory to use a Gel Coat for this in the final stage once i get there, so when 'You' do it, do you Gel coat first then allow that to cure, and then apply the matting and resin to the cured Gel Coat, ? Or, do you lay up over the wet Gel Coat layer?.. ( i ask it it seems obvious that the matting would push through the coat and touch the mould if it was still wet)..? just trying to be clear.! Thanks in advance buddy.. Del.
Yes the gel coat is an Essential part of the process an should be applied and left to cure before applying the matting and resin and also if you are going to use polyester resin it’s good practice to apply one or two Layers and then leave to cure fully then give it a good rubdown with 80grit sand paper and then apply more layers to slowly increase the thickness as polyester shrink as it cures so the thicker it is the hotter it gets the more it shrinks
@@benstapley4093 Thanks for your great advice Ben, all on board..!
great useful feedback there, not a job I've ever done so I'm watching with interest. Would it be adviseable then to fully drill out the holes before separating the mold from the plug? that might prevent the loss of the mold if it creates a lock?
Hi Del, I've been moulding GRP for about 20 years and want to pass on some knowledge to you. 1: Use PVA. Not sure what that aerosol you were using is, but it doesn't look like PVA. 2: WEIGH THE RESIN AND CATALYST (caps for emphasis of how important that is). 3: Tear the matting. 4: Less resin the better. 5: Use a roller to compress the layers. 6: Add a flange to the plug so the glass doesn't just hang over the edge. 7: Pre-wet the mat before applying. Looking forward to seeing the finished result.
Thanks for your great advices Steven, that's very much appreciated, I've bought myself some scales now and taken on board all the great advice we've been gifted by the laminating community... the biggest shock has been the cost of materials, there's so much to buy and it adds up to a truly expensive process!... But I'm in it now, so committed to the finish and I guess now I've truly learned why fibreglass motorcycle panels cost so much money, specially the carbon ones!! The carbon matting itself doesn't cost much, it's the process to create them, and I always just thought that carbon itself was expensive, bike panels are usually injection moulded which is clearly a less labour intensive process, anyway thanks again for the truly great advice, all taken on board! Next video will be an adventure and am sure will give you a smile :-)
Hey Del, great job on the plug. Ben Stapley's comments re: gelcoat and pva are spot on. Also use gelcoat on your finished item as it will give give you something to rub down without getting into the resin/glass. You can even tint the gelcoat to avoid the need for paint. If you have trouble with release try and get warm water between plug and mould as it will dissolve the pva.
Also don't use pva on the mould for the finished item as it does adversely effect your finish on the item. Many coats of wax over a few days gives a much better result. You can use a syringe to measure the catalyst for accuracy. Keep up the good work, great to see you pushing yourself in new directions.
Thanks so much Bob, thats really helpful, i would have used the PVA in the final item, but i can see what you mean it could leave a pattern in the finish. i like the idea of gel coat, making a layer to keep the material away from the mould so i can sand it, which ill need to probably, ill be using Kevlar hopefully, aiming high i guess, and wouldn't want to expose the material making it hard to paint later.. Thanks again mate, all duly noted.. Cheers and have a good weekend.. Del.
Nice job. When measuring out your resin and hardener, you could use a digital scale in order to be sure you've got the ratios right. Always enjoy watching your creative mind at work...
Or a pipette
Good plan mate, sounds like a worthy investment.!
@@Moonfleet41 or probably a large syringe for resin + a small one for activator.this way you can have measurable results. I am also planning to work with fiber glass sometimes and this is the way I would go for my learning process. Cheers
@@1Poe it will help with the consistency also
I love that you emended the conventional and inaccurate “practise makes perfect” to the less common but accurate “practise makes possible.” I’ve been trying for forty years, as a language teacher, football coach, and father, to get that false old chestnut out of circulation. I watch your channel, Del and Penny, as much for the life wisdom you share as for the excellent motorcycle content. Thank you. And “can’t” is a four-letter word. Cheers!
Thanks Guy, lots of old phrases pass into regular use over time but remain inaccurate, i agree. Thank you so much as ever for your kind and loyal support, and have a great weekend too.. D&Pxx
Um. . practice though. Just to be _even_ more correct! 🙃 I will now hide. 🥰
Coming along, a beauty, now.
Have to admire your patience, for doing it.
Not sure I could do it. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Keep it up, and always, much love to yourself and PP 🤩
You and me both Val, im not sure i could do this either, entered into it blind with zero experience, but nothing ventured aye... the mould release video will be worth a watch, and who knows how it will go from there.. but im getting lots of sound professional advice from lots of good people, so it'll only be down to me if i screw it up aye..lol..!
It's a long time since I did this myself (40 years ago and I only did it the once) but I seem to remember having to put a gel coat on the mould before the matting. I think you should check up on this. The steel version looks great on the bike, I'm sure the finished product will look just as good.
Yes indeed, among all the great help and advice coming in there have been a few mentioning Gel Coat.. so that will be part of the final cast when i get to it.!
Great work Del.
You've bounced back from your recent 'inconvenience' and are firing on all cylinders again.
Cant wait for the reveal .... 👍
Or should that be peel 🤔 😁
Thanks Shane, still in recovery in many ways, but it's great to be back in the garage and making way again... Thanks for your kind support.
Hi Del its amazing how much effort you need to put in to make a really good mould. You always surprise me by the ways you just get stuck in and try things, it doesn't always work out. Great to see your bouncing back and getting on after your little rest.
Hope the recovery is going as planned buddy. All the best SR
Many thanks buddy, on the mend and making progress.. Thanks for your kind support always.
I hope it comes off OK, the thing is to ensure that there are no reverse angles on the mold otherwise the buck become locked in when the fibreglass sets off hard,. I think I would also have taped up the inside of the holes so that the resin did not penetrate the buck and cause locking plugs. good luck.
Thanks Richard, fortunately the wet matting didn't poke through the holes, just a slight bump which will form the reverse "a dent" in the finished item so ill be able to drill them out in the exact right place..
Lovely craftsmanship Del, you did an amazing job with the fabrication.
Many thanks mate, I was happy with the final outcome!
Bloody hell Del, I’d forgotten how time consuming fibre glassing can be, 30 years ago I made a belly pan for a Suzuki GS 750, made a really good job of it at the time, but haven’t done any since, good job mate, looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Cheers Del. 👍
Thanks buddy, it certainly is time consuming, but it's a real adventure and im enjoying learning a new skill set.
Nooooo, I was watching to the end but denied the "money shot" of peeling it off the plug! Such a tease Del! :D
Sorry Chris, the next video will be worth the wait i can assure you..
Guy, I'm afraid it's not a teasing???
Del, I'm still learning with you, an interesting process. If the concern is that it will be difficult (or impossible) to separate the parts, then what about vents for releasing the vacuum? I'm afraid the plug lacks holes for air release.
@@MyINNOVAMotorcycling All good thoughts mate... thanks for your support and engagement..!
Try to use compressed air when seperating from the mold
Another nice job Del and great video as always.. Thanks for sharing it..
Thank you for your kind support brother, i really appreciate that..! Glad you enjoyed it.
Surfboards next mate.
You can call them “DelBoards”
I haven’t done fiberglass for years, just recently thinking doing again for repairs. Your way of doing it much easier than my time. Only thing I hated was the smell!! Lol… Kwel job DelBoy!!
Thanks buddy, it is a new experience for me, and im really enjoying learning a new skillset at the same time.. (and you're right, not keen on the smell either.)
@@Moonfleet41 .. you started out great.. the fiber you use different from my time. Ones I used was thick woven fiberglass cloth, not like your straight sheet.. thus, I like yours better, easier to manage.
Ripping ideas - If Pen waxes your bum with one of these kits, once she's managed to prise it off, you could have one of the comfiest bike seats ever made, trim the edges up a bit while she stops laughing & y'bum heals, job done : ) xx
Good work Del, very nice job. When you do your next one, I like to glass in some small wood batons on the outside and then make a frame for the mould to sit on when you are working on it, it also helps to pull the two pieces apart and helps keep the mould nice and firm when you lay up the final. Just a suggestion mate.
Thanks Jimmy, i have had that in the plan from the beginning, something to mount the mould on so it's firmly stood on the table and not falling about everywhere... and as for pulling the mould off the plug.. wait till the next video, i think you'll enjoy it..! Thanks for the tips mate, very much appreciated.
Hey Del, I've lost count of the times I've seen you try something new - and do great with it! I greatly admire your spirit of adventure and your persistence, and the mold is looking very nice. I look forward to Tuesday's episode... or should I call it a Release? All the best to both of you.
Wow, thank you John, that's very kind of you, i guess we learn best by doing new things and practicing, it may not ever make us experts, far from it, but its all great experience and an adventure indeed.. and yes, i think you'll rather enjoy Tuesday's 'release'... it'll be worth waiting for.. Have a great weekend and keep safe. D&Px
Good going Del .
It's probably too late now but if you heat the inside of the plug when the mold is cured , the wax will partially liquify and the release will be easier .. ( you may well have done this already )
I made many Dormobile roofs as an apprentice they used to give us new baseball boots every time we went in the plastic shop ( pizza/ frisbee feet !)
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮♥️
Thanks for the tip Brother, you'll see how useful that tip could have been in the next video... but i can still use it in the final process, very sound and obvious advice indeed.. Keep safe and enjoy your weekend too, soon be Christmas (apparently !) D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41
Can't be much help with Kevlar though .. that wasn't really a thing in 1984 ..at least not for camper vans ..so I'll be learning with you.
👍🏻☮♥️
Looking good Del, when you come to release the mold I have seen other you tubers using compressed air.
@@springy-2112 No, it's a brand new one on me too, it doesn't stretch and push about like fiberglass, it like a fixed woven cloth with almost no give, soill be learning with every step myself..
@@DeafMaker Thats a good tip, I've seen many things removed with compressed air including paint and clear coat..
Glass on some pieces of wood or even steel to the outside (rough side) before you try to break it away, it will give you extra hand holds to give you better leverage when you release the mould from the plug.
Thanks Neil, that makes perfect sense. im learning this as i go along, so every days a school day..!
I really like how you tackle new challenges. It's a learning process, with you as well as your followers. Hope your are finally successful with your belly pan.
Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Bit late now but if you put 3 coats of gel coat before the fiberglass your get a better mould. Maybe next time
Thanks Chris, im literally working blind on this, first time ever and pretty much all of the great advice has come in as im rolling along.. thanks for the gel coat tip, i makes sense for sure, and thankfully the finished item will be getting fully bodyworked and painted in the colours of the bike, so i have that flexibility this time... but you are right, next time making a mould it'd be great to make it even better..!
Cliff hanger !! can't wait to pull it. Nice job as always you make it look professional and easy.
Thanks mate, i wanted to hang about and pull the mould too, but it was still curing over 2 hours later, but the next video will be worth the wait i can assure you..!
@@Moonfleet41 sure does take it's time. How much Fiber glass sheets did you start with ?
@@mattmckee396 That now contains 10 Sq Ft of matting and pretty much an entire liter (Kilo) of resin... it's about 6mm thick at least as i figure it would then be durable and strong enough to hold up to being mauled about to get it off, and stay in shape for the future big day when i actually use it to make the real belly pan.!
@@Moonfleet41 wow that’s alot of fiber glass I remember you saying 6 mil but may have missed the amount of sq footage of fiberglass. Thanks for the info. You are a real help and inspiration. Glad to see you back at it 100%
Pure wizardry, Del! When you’re finished up there with the wax, may I drop off my bike and car for 3 coats please? Thanks in advance! 😬. Have a great weekend there, and feel good! 🏍👍🏍
Thanks Gary, good to hear from you, with all the matt black bikes we own, it's been a while since I waxed anything and after 3 coats just on this mould, now I remember why! Have a good weekend too Sir, take care of both of you, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 ahhh that’s right! Lucky you. Stay well! 😎
Ah, the golden days when I made fibreglass canoes!!! Great technique Del, should be on the money!,,😉👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hope so Phil, i think you'll rather enjoy the next video, editing now and should be up for Tuesday..
That is really cool. I saw someone using fiberglass on a kit car back in the late 80s. Never understood what they were doing, makes a little more sense now. I agree with Rik. Surfboards next.
Don't know why this thought hadn't come to mind before but I saw the Blue Peter sign in the background but in your case Del it hasn't been made before.
I'm very intrigued to see what the final outcome is! I have never looked into this process before and if I had I would have looked forward to every single video episode to see your twist on it.
God bless you Del and Penny xx
Attention to detail is second to none coming along nicely great job all the best take care
Thanks Paul. 👍 Learning as i go and having a great time.
A very long process I would just use the plug on the bike.
The plug is steel, and perhaps 5x heavier than the finished item, which will be kevlar, and surely on a lightweight bike that should be a consideration? And my time is free to me, so I don't care how long it takes!
Cracking job as expected mate. Looking forward to the cast coming off and seeing the finished product!
Thanks mate, You and me both!
Very helpful as usual sir thank you. Awesome video
Very welcome
Good initiative on doing the test piece. At least you know in theory it’ll work, although might be a little more awkward to slip the GF off of the plug due to the multiple angles.
Not sure of the process, but would popping the whole thing in the freezer for an hour before removing the GF help with the removal process as the steel contracts ? Just a thought.
Thanks for your kind words Ken, learning as I go with this, I'm gonna invest in some scales as advised multiple times to get the mixture right next time, and as for the freezer, am not sure if that would work and sadly I won't be able to try as I don't have a freezer big enough to fit it in! One suggestion made was the other way round to actually warm up the plug from the inside, maybe with a hairdryer, to liquefy the wax, but check out the next video, it'll be well worth waiting for!
Very nice , very smart and I did say it was a sharp angel at the front , my apologies , it looks like a very professional job.
Thanks mate, just learning as i go along, it's great to venture into new skill sets and explore things ive never done before..
@@Moonfleet41 all your work from my watching your channel for some years now , it's all floorless. I really enjoy everything , sometimes I don't always comment , but I do give it a big thumbs up. Hope your health is getting better , please say hello to your good lady penny , not sure if you do mention,s. But myself Andy Richardson and my fabulous wife ( Joan Richardson would be very humbling if you could give a small hello,s on a video in the future I know your time is busy. We run a Facebook site called MP3 United Kingdom , that consists of over a 1000 members giving tips and advice to all . So sorry for babbling on. Take care to you both. ( Top fan )
Release holes to allow air in the back side so you are not fighting a vacuum.
Thanks buddy, all good advice welcome, check out the next video, I think you'll enjoy it!
Will do.
I know this does not relate to this video but I can't find the one you did on oil blackening bolts. Can I blacken the head on my rear wheel spindle or will a localised blackening introduce stresses into the area potentially weakening it ?
Hi there Matthew, i would not heat your axle, exactly like you suggest, it could change it's integrity ! you can buy cold blackening chemicals if it's just for looks, i imagine it's not about rust as that shouldn't be an issue on the head of the axle..!
brother thats gonna come out awesome ! great job ! i cant wait for the final product ! it takes dedication to tackle a project like that 👍 keep up the great work ! cheers from new york!!!! stay safe guys !!!
Thank you brother, it'll be great if it comes out awesome, but I'll be grateful if it just comes out at all lol... check out the next video, it'll be worth waiting for... take care and keep safe both of you, D&Px
Buy a set of scales
Next time try West System with pumps. No worry of incorrect ratios :) and many options too
Thanks Tomas, great advice, and ill use that in the future..!
Brave soul working in the darks arts of fiberglass and resin. LOL I really admire the initiative to do this. I am sure the end result will be epic. Cheers!
Mike & Melly
Hey Mike, thank you Sir, it is a dark art indeed, and a proper messy ol' time, certainly not something I'd do every day from choice! Once you're up and running in your new garage, I reckon this would be an option for Barney if you're gonna keep moving forward with that project, perhaps a cool tail unit?! Love to you both, have a fabulous weekend, D&Pxx
I thought you were going to install the metal one, and came up with a fiberglass 👏🏼
No the metal item was the plug, like the master prototype, and if it all goes according to plan, i want to make the finished item from Kevlar..!!
@@Moonfleet41 it's gonna be great!
Nice job Del. Are you going to drill your holes before you remove it from the plug?
Could have done, but the problem is I can't actually get to them with the metal bracing on the back of the plug, they will make an indent in the mould so hopefully I can do it later!
I use carbon fiber plus Cyanoacrylate glue, the wax is good for your paint..two thin coats. Detailingworld
Great tip!
(P) It must be so therapeutic laying down that matting 🤞🏻 for the release eh.
Yeah, therapeutic with a hint of anxiety thrown in mate.. new to this so i didn't have any real practice to draw upon and naturally didn't want to louse it up on the first attempt..!
Great video as usual Del,
Completely off topic question, on your Triumph build what double sided backing "stickies" did you use for the tank protection pads?
Cheers
Not going to be able to sleep all weekend now. Great job, we can't wait.
Sorry mate, it wasn't intentional, i wanted to pull the mould today but it was still hot and curing over 2 hours later... but i can assure you the next video will be worth the wait..
Hi Del , you all good? & Penny . I would use air to blow it out the mould better than twisting turning and putting pressure on the work piece.
Thanks John, We're fine. Thanks for the tip too, it makes sense. Have a good weekend mate. D&Px
That came up very well
Good luck with the rest of it
Thanks Paul, tune in to the next video on Tuesday, it'll be worth the wait!
I know that you want to practice a new skill, but the plug looks so good I don’t know why you don’t use that.
Thanks Ian, that's very kind of you, but i think it'd be a bit heavy in steel if i have the lighter weight option..
"When thats finished cooking" that made I larf :)
god i hate fiber glass m8 but you make it look easy we know its not atb del have a good weekend bud
Hi Iain, i don't love it that much meself, messy old business.. Have a great weekend too mate. D&Pxx
A cliffhanger!!!!!, can’t wait to watch next time!!!!!!!
Great work D&P .............. but now I'm on tenterhooks!!!!!! Can't wait for the next instalment! 😁
Thanks so much Mike, sorry i couldn't get to pull the mould in the same session, but it was still hot and curing a couple of hours later, so went with the patience route and stepped back from it... The next video will be interesting to say the least.. Have a great weekend buddy, and thanks for your kind support.. D&Pxx
Great stuff so far Del - what a cliff hanger! Will it release?! I have faith can't wait to see the result 😃
Cheers buddy, wasn't intend to be, really wanted tp pull it on the same day (ooer!), but as you saw, sadly, it was still cooking after 2hrs so I had to cut and run and leave it there, tune in to the next video, it'll be worth the wait!
@@Moonfleet41 Surely will - sounds like you know the result haha 👍
Nice video Del & Penny. Excellent job mate, now we wait will it release. fingers crossed. Penny and you have great weekend, take care. Cheers
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it, it's still all to do and the next video will be worth the wait..! enjoy your weekend too and keep safe over there.. should be getting warm for you now..! !!!
I've always wondered about creating my own motorcycle bodywork from the existing fairings and bits that i have. Figured it would be cheaper for when i take a header off the bike at the track. Good to see someone giving it a shot and enjoying the process :)
With the experience of this so far, for myself, i'd say that taking your old bodywork, making moulds of those panels, and then making negatives of those moulds to fit to the bike... would probably cost more then just buying some old second hand panels from the bike breaker... the cost of materials is huge, so i don't think it'd be a money saving at all... lots of fun maybe.. but costly.! Have a great weekend Sir, keep safe and stay in touch. D&Pxx
looking good dude.
Did the postman drop you something nice?
Hi Buddy.. It should be here tomorrow or first thing Monday i recon, we've had about three parcels late this week, tyres for the bike took 3 days instead of overnight, the fiberglass kit i had to order for the next stage should have been here Thursday but got here this morning... Our local PO is a bit slow here... but ill drop you a line as soon as the Postie comes...! Thanks again buddy, and enjoy your weekend.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 British Post.. nightmare.
I'm waiting on my copy of a book I co wrote with a bunch of Americans.
Waiting 2 weeks now...arghhh
Hi Del looking good mate cant wait to see the end result a good w/end to you both
Cheers Dean, great fun learning something new and always good to expand your experiences aye.. Enjoy your weekend too mate.. D&Px
It just shows how much work goes into even a small project. You'll be running these out the door by their 100's to owners of the same bike! 👍
You're right Sam, it is a long winded process and many layers of work go into it.. but yeah, i guess once you have a viable mould, you can make them over and over..!
Been watching your videos for a while now but I am finding your messages at the beginning on the board more and more confusing. They seem negative but in a positive kind of way? Sorry but am I missing a point? Keep up the cracking work and the videos
Hi there, the messages are designed to provoke a 'thought for the day', they're not my own work, we find them in many places and share them with our viewers, thanks for your engagement, we really appreciate your support.
Great videos
Thank you Lucas. Glad you like them!
i'm loving this .have a great weekend del and penny
Cheers Tom, wishing you the same mate!
Fingers crossed!
Looking fantastic Del
Nick Australia
Thanks Nick, really appreciate that mate, have a great weekend!
Hey there Del....Great to see you on the Tube!
Thank you so much kind Sir, it's good to be on the mend and slowly getting back to normal, the project is an excellent distraction that keeps me busy away from meds and hospital visits, something else to focus on.. Have a great weekend and keep safe sir .. Warmest Regards from us both.. D&Pxx
Look good let's hope it comes off in 1🤞🤞🤞
Thank for your faith mate.. Nest video should be worth the wait.!
Del Boy Products .
Have a great week
Thanks Richard, you too buddy.
You are the man
without doubt my favourite channel. Well done Del👍
Awesome, thank you for your kind support sir.
That's a awesome job del 👍
Great job so far Del! Looking forward to the pulling off part, and finishing of the mould. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Shaun.👍 It'll be worth the wait, not the outcome i expected, but im all new to this, so it's a mini adventure..!
Greetingz from the Netherlands 👍👍
Hi Johan. Good to hear from you.