I found your channel because my "youtube studio" listed you under "what your subscribers watch as well" a couple of days ago and I have since started to become a fan myself. Watched almost the entire "abandoned church" series in two days. It reminds me so much of myself working construction (as a teenager) and later renovating a house mostly on my own. Love the content and I'm kinda sad I live a couple thousand miles away, because a future cooperation would be so great :D
@@ralphhowes Nice and there are the viewers! :D You will be happy to hear that I'm back from my summer break with a new Repair-A-Thon going online tomorrow.
That would be awesome! I’m a fan of yours as well!! Love your scrap yard repair a thons!! Nothing better that going to the junk yard and coming home with treasures! I am Humbled to have you as a subscriber! Feel free to drop me a line sometime if you’d like dieselcreek@gmail.com
I love reading the comments on videos like this one; you can learn so much. We now know 𝒇𝒐𝒓 𝒔𝒖𝒓𝒆 that: 1). The "mud" in the cylinders is old StopLeak. 2). The "mud" in the cylinders is mud wasp nest. 3). The crane truck was in a flood. 4). This is the perfect way to repair an old engine in a cheap truck. 5). This is a stupid way to repair an old engine in a cheap truck. I 𝒍𝒐𝒗𝒆 RUclips. 😂👍 Seriously though Matt; great video again - entertaining 𝐚𝐧𝐝 educational. Really looking forward to seeing the truck run; I've got no doubt that engine will fire right up. 👍😁👌 Cheers for now, Dougie.
This is going to seem pretty weird, but I am an older lady with absolutely no knowledge of mechanics and I love watching your videos. To top it off, when you pulled that orange stuff out of the cylinder, I yelled, It’s carrots!!!”
I am an 80 year old mechanical engineer who has rebuilt hundreds of engines under shade trees. When you can make a stuck engine run like new with just cleaning them up and buying one tube of silicone, you are indeed a master shade tree mechanic. - And when you and your customer does not have one dollar in your pocket, you have to really know how to be a shade tree mechanic. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Howdyyawl from the land down under. Just watched you video, It'll be ok, fix the stand & it will all fall into place. Put all together & she'll be right. Good job😊
Never heard of anything like that before we dont have much in the way of insects etc where I am. But thought it looked like clay just wasn't sure how it would get in there.
I hope you explored that pit/hole with a dental pick, and made sure it wasn't something worse. I rebuilt the engine in a John Deere 440. Did it "whole load, full nine yards, like the pro's would." Just back from the engine shop, getting the cylinders bored to .040 over, tried to wipe a spec out of #2. It didn't wipe away. Explored it with a right angle pick, it started getting bigger. It opened up to the size of a dime. There was a bubble in the casting. Stripped it back down, and back to the engine shop to get that cylinder bored and sleeved, another $200 or more. Got it back home, power washed a bunch of chips out of the water jacket, started assembly ... and had to return the crank to the engine shop because he had ground the rod journals to a size that they didn't make bearing inserts for. At least the guy corrected that mistake at no additional charge.
I like to give positive feedback for you. I’m 68 and a very good back yard mechanic and l was still a boy l was given the best advice ever. A Poor Man Buys Twice in his Tools. Cheers Steve
Hi Mat, This is Bruce, I've been around for 3/4 of a century. I was lucky enough to have grown up on a small farm/ranch. We were poor, as most farmers are, and we had to do what we could to get buy. I learned how to rebuild engines as you are this one. We were lucky enough that most of them lasted for over 100K miles longer.
I once rebuild an s10 engine in my drive way I took it and pulled my mini van up lifted the back up watch make like a cover over my head put the engine on my engine stand and put right in front of the open van door and the open van back gave me a place for the parts and tools. Took it apart cleaned it. And put in all the new part rings bearings ECT it took me two days to do it put back in the truck and it all work fine started right ran protect one rebuilt engine in my drive way out of the back of my mini van it work out just fine
My late Farther was a Diesel Mechanic his entire life, one of his tricks was, after Honing he would leave the block out in the rain for a short time so as to intentionally leave light pitting in the bores to aid oil retention without loss of compression. 👍
Hi MATT. MY name is Ray. I live in Victoria B.C. LOVE your show. I am 74 years old . Dont know how many years i have left but i hope your still going for a few more years . love watching you revive old rust. Keep at it my friend !!!!!!! Take care and keep safe.
"To remove a bolt, you have to take half the engine apart!" Welcome to the mechanic life. I had a 2005 Ford Freestyle: You had to take the intake manifold off to change 3 of the spark plugs on the V6.
Just rebuilt my Ford 3000 Diesel engine so I can defiantly relate with your situation. My #1 cylinder was toast due to a broken ring so had to bore all three out .040 over. Waiting on a torque stick to torque the crank shaft pulley bolt to 150 ftlbs then I can put the front wheels and stuff back on. I did not have the luxury of an engine stand but I did have an over head chain hoist with a trolly, a life saver. Rolling the engine around on a clean sheet of plywood got it done but not easy. Head rebuild, bearings, pistons and rings should have my old tractor up and running fine for many years to come. I don’t use the tractor all that much for clearing snow since I bought my skid steer but when I need it to brush hog or dig post holes it really comes in handy. Don’t cut too many corners with your project and do things properly and your engine should be good to go. I am like others thinking that pit might be a through wall into the water jacket, very bad news but you can get another block without too much difficulty I am thinking. Looking forward to the outcome. Good luck!
My friend drove his 429 boss into the lake during a rain storm. After he got it out and home I pulled the engine and trans. The trans checked out ok after draining, cleaning and new valve kit. The engine on the other hand had orange clay in every cylinder. Mind we had the car out and home in two days. I completely disassembled the engine, cleaned and dried everything. I honed the the cylinders (which where in better condition than yours), ground and reseated the valves. I then replaced the distributor with a dual point (upon my friend's request) and rebuilt the carburetor. it took two days to do the trans and it took one week to do the engine. My friend cleaned and dried out the car. It took him about a mouth and a half. When we had everything put back together everything worked great except some minor electrical problems that we got sorted out in about one hour. Now the car runs and looks great . I hope you have as good luck as we did with your truck.
This is old-school engine repair. There are 'in the field' engine rebuild kits (commonly called 'in frame') for tractors. They used to just be just like this. The motor dies out in the farm field and you just pull the pistons, put new sleeves and bearings while the tractor is still stuck there. People did this all the time. I think we've become to adjusted to these clean room style engine rebuilds with precision machining all costing thousands of dollars. Sometimes get 'er done is all that is really needed to get some piece of equipment back up and working. It's not like this truck is going to the drag strip next week...
@Jeff Kopis My grandfather had an old engine that ran a grain auger and he tore it down every winter and replaced the rings with hand-cut, oil soaked and hardened leather strips. It took him about an hour or so to rebuild the engine each year, in a dirty barn with simple tools. Come disaster times, those old-school skills are gonna be sorely missed.
@Jeff Kopis Sad part is, I'm now one of those 'old guys'... without all of their actual tribal knowledge and experience. Much longer and all this stuff is going to be guesswork for all of us... LOL!
@@bryanmartinez6600 well I am sure you are right. My time was 1966 and they did a lot of repair in the field. Nothing as complex as an Abrams. But I understand those have engine packs to effect a timely swap.
You can not believe how many engines I done this exact same way cause I had no choice, no shop, Nothing, and they all turned out great. Keep going you'll get it.
I am a sailboat mechanic with 40 years experience. I can pull a little sailboat motor out strip it down hold it out do an in-frame overhaul put it back together installed lined up and everything about 12 hours inside the boat or out in the cockpit if I have help picking up the motor. Only difference is this motor is bigger that's all. Yes you can get a good crosshatch with 80 grit sandpaper and a cordless drill going as slow as you can possibly turn it. It makes a really nice crosshatch that's the important part you do not want the cylinder smooth! Those scratches hold the oil and keep everything from losing the oil film also it helps to wear in the new rings. 1 engine that I rebuilt the person left Tampa the next day. He ran the motor all the way to Key West. He topped up the diesel fuel and didn't shut the motor off. When he got to Virginia it had burnt 1 quart of oil. He went 24 7 with two people on the boat. That's hard work all night long. He called me and said if I ever need a reference he would be happy to send me one. LOL I'm not going to Virginia to overhaul a motor
Pro-tip, when knocking rod caps loose, leave the nut on the stud, or the bolt in the hole a few threads and tap on the bolt/stud. Especially helpful when doing an in-frame overhaul. Will easily knock the cap loose and won't fall on your face.
The great thing about being in the middle of the wood doing this is you don't have to worry about someone breaking into your garage stealing parts. There's nothing shady about doing this. It's the country way
Shade tree works fine for me, you're doing exactly what I would do. Anyone who thinks that wrong, should go and see what Jonathan W. does in his salvage yard building hot rods that are useable, legal on the road, and hand built for no money. I've got a 460 to do, so especially interesting to me (in U.K. where everything really does cost an arm and a leg !!).
Worked on many an engine out in sticks. You do what’s got to be done to get it done. But in Fords defense you can’t blame any engine manufacturers for after market add ons. Who ever came up with the air compressor mount and pumps need to rework the engineering process. Great 👍 content. The get it done attitude is the difference between those that do or those that don’t.
I would yell about the shade tree repair but then i realized “no harm in trying because if it works then it works and if not then it is not my problem”
u also need to get a dial bore indicator and check ur holes in the cyl wall and make sure the rings will seal. it may be best just to bore it . its only 100 bucks to bore a motor. and u get more power.
That mysterious gunk looks like a classic Scotty Kilmer fix. One simply crams bondo down the intake and then turns the engine over which fixes all the pitting in the cylinders!
Excellent video! Nice to see a budget job being done on an engine. I know some may not appreciate it, but it's one of those times it doesn't make financial sense to do a full job. Like a lot of projects I take on!
Nice start, your right don't blame the stand, you had a lot hanging out there. Maybe just move it into a container? ATF on those pistons is your friend.
I seriously laughed out loud when you recommended dropping everything in the dirt to get a nice even coating. That sounds a lot like how I work in equipment. I always keep shop towels and carb cleaner handy while working.
If you're working on concrete, you won't drop more than a nut or two. Working on dirt? Might as well just throw everything on the ground -- seems like every part ends up down there anyway!
@@dfross87 I was reminded this weekend that the same holds true for brand new rolls of electrical tape... While using tape to mark the depth in a hammer drill I dropped a roll I had just opened. Dirt loves to stick to the sides of a roll.
Can't say I ever saw anyone use a putty knife to clean an engine cylinder. Of course I never saw anyone rebuild an engine outside in the woods. What a hoot! Enjoyed it.
its funny how when you see the " hasn't started in 20 years " vids no matter what at least 1 of the cylinders had the exhaust or intake valve open for that time and rusted up and filled with dirt
I had one so damn stuck I tried every trick in the book before stuffing a 4x4 in the hole and pounding on it with a 20lb sledge. Had to replace that piston but DAMN did that thing run good after. I prefer doing things right but when it's a beater nobody's going to care about, the "aww screw it" attitude works really well sometimes.
I’ve done a lot of shade tree mechanic and in years past simply because of lack of money. Love to see somebody else unafraid today again. At 15 1/2 minutes, I saw you bang that spray cam on the side of the block and I busted a gut laughing! I never thought of that but now that’s a new tool in my tool bag! Way to go keep on pumping them out!
Love your videos. I am a retired auto mechanic. I have some suggestions should you ever decide to take part another gas auto engine. I would have loved to be there with you, helping as best I could and never charging you a dime! In any event, here are my suggestions: 1) There are two types of Evapo-Rust. The home owners (DIY) version, and the commercial version. The DIY is a little diluted. Watch out which one you buy in the future. Evapo-Rust is just that - removes rust. It has no effect on caked-on carbon or grease. This company also makes a product called Piston Kleen. Now PK will dissolve the carbon buildup on your pistons. 2) Another product that would have loosened those rings is old-fashioned toxic commercial carburetor cleaner. The kind that comes in a 5-gallon bucket with a dipping basket. I say old-fashioned because the new stuff is environmentally friendly and cleans nothing! Do not even know if they still make the old stuff. 3) Lifters and pushrods should be kept oriented to their respective holes, unless they are new. 4) The piston rings and cylinder walls should have been coated with motor oil prior to install. 5) The oil pump should have been primed prior to rotating the engine. 6) Mr. Gasket is an excellent gasket hold-in-place product. 7) Since you had it all torn down, it would have been wise to replace the water pump. 8) As old as the vehicle is, it may have dried and cracked belts. I would have replied them. 9) Sounds like you have a serious miss in the engine. Most would say it is an ignition issue. Although possible, I believe this is not the cause. Sounds to me you have a hydraulic lifter set too tight, or a valve has a serious pit in it causing blow-by. I see you did not have a valve job done on the heads. This may bite you later on. There. I put my 2-cents in! I enjoy watching your videos. The the best to you and your family. JD
When you buy from Harbor Fright the rule of thumb goes, if it can kill or maim you, don't buy from Harbor Fright. (This kind of goes for any cheap brands) Ouch, glad you didn't get hurt there.
@Jeff Kopis I actually haven't bought anything real expensive from them, but great advice. Thank you. I'm considering a Vulcan welder. Just want to learn, and don't want to spend the money on a Miller or Lincoln. Will make sure I add the warranty. I also know you can renew the warranty once they expire which is a nice feature.
By the time you pound the piston out of #2 you will have cleaned most of the rust off that wall via the rings. Hone the cylinders, put new rings on the pistons and bolt her back together. Engines are very forgiving beasts. You'll be fine. I have torn an engine apart, replaced one spun bearing and bolted the engine back together. Minimal crank damage. Engine ran fine. After you finish bolting it all back together taking very good care of the engine post rebuild is critical. Best of luck.
It might run but never like new. But probably just good enough. Maybe the other engine had better performance because it has better compression? Idk.. A real mechanical engineer might be able to tell this.
For a boom truck putting around the farm, and occasionally heading to your other orojects- that 370 will make plenty of power- as long as it fits bell housings, clutch etc...
hope that pit isnt cavitation from the coolant passage. that cylinder is going to have some blow by and burn some oil. the others look like they will have some of the same. good enough for a truck that is used around the farm. looked like pistons were marked with oversized bore.
jason9022 i would trust what he says. He has a successful channel highlighting all his projects, he’s not some random person commenting on RUclips videos for fun
Stay with the 429 it's a Lima Engine, 370 will give you fits by the change overs you will have to do to make it work , I promise you I know by working on Fords all my Life !
You did what I would have done. Unless there is a hole in the cylinder some honing should make it run like it used to. I see it has been rebuilt before by the oversized stamps. You got a good deal.
A good video, for me who does not understand much about engines. I hope that the church to apartments project is still moving ahead, too. I have discovered that many of these You tuber channel guys and gals, are pretty good at their presentations. He was on his farm, way off from anyone one else, speaking to 1,239 viewers, when I had viewed this. Harbor Freight sells some magnetic parts trays or dishes that you can place small metal parts in. Around $3.99 each. Even if you drop the tray, parts stay with it, not on the ground. They don't work with aluminum parts, though. I doubt if any engines have any aluminum parts.
I hope you kept all the bearings numbered and also noted the direction each were installed if you intend to reuse them and the crank shaft when you put the motor back together. No bearing wears the same on a crank shaft. Putting them back in the wrong order will cause faster crank shaft wear and an earlier than wanted engine failure. But if you plan on selling the crane right after you get it running, then the engine failure will not be your problem. :)
I haven't seen that clay since I worked up in the 'rustbelt'...that, my friend, is the same color of 'clay' as Ford's engine caster used to cast the blocks...and is MOST LIKELY 'casting clay' used for the engine block's casting. If the blocks are not properly 'shaken' after casting, or not fully rinsed of debris after they are cool, there can easily be 'chunks of casting clay' left in crevices within the block (especially the water jacket areas) that over time, get soft and fall into the water or oil journals. Same with the intake castings...if the casting sand is not freed from inside the intake, the same can happen (and would be the most-likely thing that caused the sand to hit the pistons). While it is possible this happened from another 'mechanic' using an old intake (looked like the left-bank had a different brand of head gasket than the right bank), an intake swap with a dirty intake can also cause this. Either way, these are the most-likely ways such 'clay-sand' materials got into the piston-chamber areas of that engine. Personally, I'd tear the engine completely down, wash all internals (knocking out the freeze plugs) and then have it dipped at your local auto parts house, before rebuilding it...or the same thing that happened this time could easily happen again...if all the sand-clay isn't gone already.
This is helpful for me. I'm needing to pull the heads off a V8 with just a carport to do it in. I'd much rather have a shop but it really is better than out in the wide open. And I agree with other you tubers. I've seen people free up stuck engines that most machinists would faint if you run them and they seem to do fine. Those chunks of mud could have been from mud dobber wasps. I've seen mouse nests and mud dobber nests in cylinders of engines that sat for long time. If the valve is open and the critter can get in the intake or up exhaust, they can build a nest.
Love watching you pull apart that engine, can't wait to see that puppy back in the truck and running. I understand that lifters and push rods should go back into the same wholes they came out of because of wear patterns, I assume for shade tree jobs that is not a requirement? lol or maybe you plan on putting new ones in? Oh yea do you plan on making some kind of shield when the engine is back installed so rain water will not run down into it again, fix Ford's design problem there.
For any kind of cover/pan gasket, I've always attached the gasket to the sealing surface of the cover/pan and insert enough retaining screws (I always do them all) to keep the gasket in place and screws aligned up with holes.
@@Vintageguy73 yep! It made me cringe hearing him say the rod bolt against the crank journal was the reason the piston wouldn't come out. And also driving the piston out with a metal punch and driving a screwdriver in between the rod cap and the rod to remove the cap
I gave up on Fords along time ago. Spent all my free weekends trying to keep a ford 1985 F150 on the road. I got to know that engine very well. When I got the truck the computer didn't work because it wasn't getting voltage. The main wiring harness that came from the firewall had a loop at the bottom. At the very bottom of this loop some engineer decided that would be a great place to put a non insulated copper crimp to feed the computer. Simply wrapped in black electric tape. Water gets on the wiring and collects at the bottom loop corroding the connection. Just to save on a 20 cent plastic connection.
Wouldn’t stop leak be in the oil or coolant systems not built up in the combustion chamber. It would blow right out the exhaust if running.. like steam with bad head gasket.. mud wasps seems fairly plausible if it sat..
Hey nobody is gonna judge if it works then ship it down the road and Get a bit of profit or just keep it as it would probably be nice to have it around great work and thanks for the awesome content Edited stay safe and take care
Dirt fixes everything - makes cylinders and lifters work smoothly and everybody knows spit combined with dirt heals all wounds! Great job M-Shady as always!
That engine looks to of been bored out before they got the oversize number on the tops of the pistons so maybe why it locked up a low mile engine will lock up long before a loose engine with lots of miles on it will but the heads been off that thing those are aftermarket head gaskets and the pistons are not factory so that engine has been rebuilt before as far as I can see
On more than 1 engine that I bought that was seized up, I pulled the plugs, and filled the cylinders with a 50/50 mix of diesel and transmission fluid. 90% of the time the engine would turn over within 24 hours.
ATF is what I learned from the shade tree mechanics to put in the cylinders on an engine that had been sitting. Mixing with something to thin it out some makes a lot of sense.
I had a '66 Mustang with a 289, if you needed to change the water pump, literally every accessory on the front of the engine was bolted to the water pump housing/timing chain cover. You had to strip the whole front of the engine just to get the pump off and change it. It appears that is a trait of all Fords so nice at least the early 1960's.
Matt, I enjoyed the quick and dirty rebuild! I’m sure it will be just fine. You definitely have to pick your battles, time, and cost on these mechanical projects. With all these RUclips channels restoring completely rusty relics after 500 man hours into pristine condition, people have become to expect the same for every project elsewhere on RUclips which is just unrealistic!
I found your channel because my "youtube studio" listed you under "what your subscribers watch as well" a couple of days ago and I have since started to become a fan myself. Watched almost the entire "abandoned church" series in two days. It reminds me so much of myself working construction (as a teenager) and later renovating a house mostly on my own. Love the content and I'm kinda sad I live a couple thousand miles away, because a future cooperation would be so great :D
Good to see you here, love your channel!
@@ralphhowes Nice and there are the viewers! :D You will be happy to hear that I'm back from my summer break with a new Repair-A-Thon going online tomorrow.
Where have I seen your handle before in the comments, Shango066's channel? I remember the name but can't think where from lol
That would be awesome! I’m a fan of yours as well!! Love your scrap yard repair a thons!! Nothing better that going to the junk yard and coming home with treasures! I am Humbled to have you as a subscriber! Feel free to drop me a line sometime if you’d like dieselcreek@gmail.com
@@ThePostApocalypticInventor Very happy, great news!
I love reading the comments on videos like this one; you can learn so much.
We now know 𝒇𝒐𝒓 𝒔𝒖𝒓𝒆 that:
1). The "mud" in the cylinders is old StopLeak.
2). The "mud" in the cylinders is mud wasp nest.
3). The crane truck was in a flood.
4). This is the perfect way to repair an old engine in a cheap truck.
5). This is a stupid way to repair an old engine in a cheap truck.
I 𝒍𝒐𝒗𝒆 RUclips. 😂👍
Seriously though Matt; great video again - entertaining 𝐚𝐧𝐝 educational. Really looking forward to seeing the truck run; I've got no doubt that engine will fire right up. 👍😁👌
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
It's actually sweet potatoes in the cylinders
This is going to seem pretty weird, but I am an older lady with absolutely no knowledge of mechanics and I love watching your videos. To top it off, when you pulled that orange stuff out of the cylinder, I yelled, It’s carrots!!!”
Now thats funny!
Basically its about creaking dozers and stinking diesels what are carrots?
A ball type hone would be your best friend in these conditions. It would do a superb job on that mighty engine!!
I am an 80 year old mechanical engineer who has rebuilt hundreds of engines under shade trees. When you can make a stuck engine run like new with just cleaning them up and buying one tube of silicone, you are indeed a master shade tree mechanic. - And when you and your customer does not have one dollar in your pocket, you have to really know how to be a shade tree mechanic. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Howdyyawl from the land down under. Just watched you video, It'll be ok, fix the stand & it will all fall into place. Put all together & she'll be right. Good job😊
It sounds crazy, but that mud might just be mud. I had an old tractor once that was seized and had mud wasp nests through the head and manifold
Was thinking the same seeing as the plugs were out they just go in that way.
That was my thought as well.
They found a nice iron bunker.
Yep, dirt daubers
Never heard of anything like that before we dont have much in the way of insects etc where I am. But thought it looked like clay just wasn't sure how it would get in there.
I hope you explored that pit/hole with a dental pick, and made sure it wasn't something worse.
I rebuilt the engine in a John Deere 440. Did it "whole load, full nine yards, like the pro's would." Just back from the engine shop, getting the cylinders bored to .040 over, tried to wipe a spec out of #2. It didn't wipe away. Explored it with a right angle pick, it started getting bigger. It opened up to the size of a dime. There was a bubble in the casting. Stripped it back down, and back to the engine shop to get that cylinder bored and sleeved, another $200 or more. Got it back home, power washed a bunch of chips out of the water jacket, started assembly ... and had to return the crank to the engine shop because he had ground the rod journals to a size that they didn't make bearing inserts for. At least the guy corrected that mistake at no additional charge.
I like to give positive feedback for you. I’m 68 and a very good back yard mechanic and l was still a boy l was given the best advice ever. A Poor Man Buys Twice in his Tools. Cheers Steve
Hi Mat, This is Bruce, I've been around for 3/4 of a century. I was lucky enough to have grown up on a small farm/ranch. We were poor, as most farmers are, and we had to do what we could to get buy. I learned how to rebuild engines as you are this one. We were lucky enough that most of them lasted for over 100K miles longer.
I once rebuild an s10 engine in my drive way I took it and pulled my mini van up lifted the back up watch make like a cover over my head put the engine on my engine stand and put right in front of the open van door and the open van back gave me a place for the parts and tools. Took it apart cleaned it. And put in all the new part rings bearings ECT it took me two days to do it put back in the truck and it all work fine started right ran protect one rebuilt engine in my drive way out of the back of my mini van it work out just fine
My late Farther was a Diesel Mechanic his entire life, one of his tricks was, after Honing he would leave the block out in the rain for a short time so as to intentionally leave light pitting in the bores to aid oil retention without loss of compression. 👍
awesome, I love it when stuff's repaired instead of replaced
Hi MATT. MY name is Ray. I live in Victoria B.C. LOVE your show. I am 74 years old . Dont know how many years i have left but i hope your still going for a few more years . love watching you revive old rust. Keep at it my friend !!!!!!! Take care and keep safe.
"To remove a bolt, you have to take half the engine apart!" Welcome to the mechanic life. I had a 2005 Ford Freestyle: You had to take the intake manifold off to change 3 of the spark plugs on the V6.
And all the new Ford pickups need the cab removed to pull the engine
Just rebuilt my Ford 3000 Diesel engine so I can defiantly relate with your situation. My #1 cylinder was toast due to a broken ring so had to bore all three out .040 over. Waiting on a torque stick to torque the crank shaft pulley bolt to 150 ftlbs then I can put the front wheels and stuff back on. I did not have the luxury of an engine stand but I did have an over head chain hoist with a trolly, a life saver.
Rolling the engine around on a clean sheet of plywood got it done but not easy. Head rebuild, bearings, pistons and rings should have my old tractor up and running fine for many years to come. I don’t use the tractor all that much for clearing snow since I bought my skid steer but when I need it to brush hog or dig post holes it really comes in handy.
Don’t cut too many corners with your project and do things properly and your engine should be good to go. I am like others thinking that pit might be a through wall into the water jacket, very bad news but you can get another block without too much difficulty I am thinking.
Looking forward to the outcome. Good luck!
Mud diver bee nest . Bead hone clean those cylinders right up!
Yes, my thoughts are it is the former home of a mud dauber wasp.
That was my thought about the mud
@@reelfoot5143 dyad
My friend drove his 429 boss into the lake during a rain storm. After he got it out and home I pulled the engine and trans. The trans checked out ok after draining, cleaning and new valve kit. The engine on the other hand had orange clay in every cylinder. Mind we had the car out and home in two days. I completely disassembled the engine, cleaned and dried everything. I honed the the cylinders (which where in better condition than yours), ground and reseated the valves. I then replaced the distributor with a dual point (upon my friend's request) and rebuilt the carburetor. it took two days to do the trans and it took one week to do the engine. My friend cleaned and dried out the car. It took him about a mouth and a half. When we had everything put back together everything worked great except some minor electrical problems that we got sorted out in about one hour. Now the car runs and looks great . I hope you have as good luck as we did with your truck.
This is old-school engine repair. There are 'in the field' engine rebuild kits (commonly called 'in frame') for tractors. They used to just be just like this. The motor dies out in the farm field and you just pull the pistons, put new sleeves and bearings while the tractor is still stuck there. People did this all the time. I think we've become to adjusted to these clean room style engine rebuilds with precision machining all costing thousands of dollars. Sometimes get 'er done is all that is really needed to get some piece of equipment back up and working. It's not like this truck is going to the drag strip next week...
That how the military fixes stuff out in the boonies
@Jeff Kopis My grandfather had an old engine that ran a grain auger and he tore it down every winter and replaced the rings with hand-cut, oil soaked and hardened leather strips. It took him about an hour or so to rebuild the engine each year, in a dirty barn with simple tools. Come disaster times, those old-school skills are gonna be sorely missed.
@Jeff Kopis Sad part is, I'm now one of those 'old guys'... without all of their actual tribal knowledge and experience. Much longer and all this stuff is going to be guesswork for all of us... LOL!
@@tombob671 doubt it not sure how one can fix a Honeywell turbine on an Abrams. Eh this military is rich LS swap it and...make it several.
@@bryanmartinez6600 well I am sure you are right. My time was 1966 and they did a lot of repair in the field. Nothing as complex as an Abrams. But I understand those have engine packs to effect a timely swap.
You can not believe how many engines I done this exact same way cause I had no choice, no shop, Nothing, and they all turned out great. Keep going you'll get it.
Next time you might try standing it on the flywheel. You can turn the crank by rotating the whole engine block. It works great I've done it for years.
I really like this idea holy shit. just get a junkered flywheel and use that every time, I may do this with my chevy 5.0L i6.
I am a sailboat mechanic with 40 years experience. I can pull a little sailboat motor out strip it down hold it out do an in-frame overhaul put it back together installed lined up and everything about 12 hours inside the boat or out in the cockpit if I have help picking up the motor. Only difference is this motor is bigger that's all. Yes you can get a good crosshatch with 80 grit sandpaper and a cordless drill going as slow as you can possibly turn it. It makes a really nice crosshatch that's the important part you do not want the cylinder smooth! Those scratches hold the oil and keep everything from losing the oil film also it helps to wear in the new rings. 1 engine that I rebuilt the person left Tampa the next day. He ran the motor all the way to Key West. He topped up the diesel fuel and didn't shut the motor off. When he got to Virginia it had burnt 1 quart of oil. He went 24 7 with two people on the boat. That's hard work all night long. He called me and said if I ever need a reference he would be happy to send me one. LOL I'm not going to Virginia to overhaul a motor
A case of beer between neighbors for an engine? That's how its done.
Pro-tip, when knocking rod caps loose, leave the nut on the stud, or the bolt in the hole a few threads and tap on the bolt/stud. Especially helpful when doing an in-frame overhaul. Will easily knock the cap loose and won't fall on your face.
The great thing about being in the middle of the wood doing this is you don't have to worry about someone breaking into your garage stealing parts. There's nothing shady about doing this. It's the country way
Charming to look at this again now, and know, the man has a heated concrete floor to work on soon, inside!
Shade tree works fine for me, you're doing exactly what I would do. Anyone who thinks that wrong, should go and see what Jonathan W. does in his salvage yard building hot rods that are useable, legal on the road, and hand built for no money. I've got a 460 to do, so especially interesting to me (in U.K. where everything really does cost an arm and a leg !!).
Worked on many an engine out in sticks. You do what’s got to be done to get it done. But in Fords defense you can’t blame any engine manufacturers for after market add ons. Who ever came up with the air compressor mount and pumps need to rework the engineering process. Great 👍 content. The get it done attitude is the difference between those that do or those that don’t.
I would yell about the shade tree repair but then i realized “no harm in trying because if it works then it works and if not then it is not my problem”
If it doesn’t work I get a few videos out of it at least and some practice wrenching... still got that plan B that will drop right in
u also need to get a dial bore indicator and check ur holes in the cyl wall and make sure the rings will seal. it may be best just to bore it . its only 100 bucks to bore a motor. and u get more power.
That mysterious gunk looks like a classic Scotty Kilmer fix. One simply crams bondo down the intake and then turns the engine over which fixes all the pitting in the cylinders!
Yeah, "fixes" :D
That is some ghetto shit for sure lmao
It's yours so rebuild it wherever you want to rebuild it.😊
Excellent video! Nice to see a budget job being done on an engine. I know some may not appreciate it, but it's one of those times it doesn't make financial sense to do a full job. Like a lot of projects I take on!
Nice start, your right don't blame the stand, you had a lot hanging out there. Maybe just move it into a container? ATF on those pistons is your friend.
Get a pick and have a dig around that rust pit in the first cylinder you did. Make sure it's not a hole into the water jacket.
i would have smeared some bondo in that rust pit and have a good laugh when it would hold.
Diesel mechanics.... Know how hard they can 'tap' things. Love your videos!
I seriously laughed out loud when you recommended dropping everything in the dirt to get a nice even coating. That sounds a lot like how I work in equipment. I always keep shop towels and carb cleaner handy while working.
If you're working on concrete, you won't drop more than a nut or two. Working on dirt? Might as well just throw everything on the ground -- seems like every part ends up down there anyway!
@@dfross87 I was reminded this weekend that the same holds true for brand new rolls of electrical tape... While using tape to mark the depth in a hammer drill I dropped a roll I had just opened. Dirt loves to stick to the sides of a roll.
JDM333 don’t ya just hate that!?
Lmao if you ain’t laughing, you’re bound to go loony toons.
@@dfross87 Keep those Amazon boxes and get a roll of duct tape. Make yourself a garage mat.
Can't say I ever saw anyone use a putty knife to clean an engine cylinder. Of course I never saw anyone rebuild an engine outside in the woods. What a hoot! Enjoyed it.
its funny how when you see the " hasn't started in 20 years " vids no matter what at least 1 of the cylinders had the exhaust or intake valve open for that time and rusted up and filled with dirt
Great video Matt, nothing like working in the open air rebuilding a Big Block Ford.. Tremendous..............
I had one so damn stuck I tried every trick in the book before stuffing a 4x4 in the hole and pounding on it with a 20lb sledge. Had to replace that piston but DAMN did that thing run good after.
I prefer doing things right but when it's a beater nobody's going to care about, the "aww screw it" attitude works really well sometimes.
Had a mechanic that filled small pits with jb weld
I’ve done a lot of shade tree mechanic and in years past simply because of lack of money. Love to see somebody else unafraid today again. At 15 1/2 minutes, I saw you bang that spray cam on the side of the block and I busted a gut laughing! I never thought of that but now that’s a new tool in my tool bag! Way to go keep on pumping them out!
This is the most ratchet rebuild I have ever seen in my life AND I LIKE IT!
Love your videos. I am a retired auto mechanic. I have some suggestions should you ever decide to take part another gas auto engine. I would have loved to be there with you, helping as best I could and never charging you a dime! In any event, here are my suggestions:
1) There are two types of Evapo-Rust. The home owners (DIY) version, and the commercial version. The DIY is a little diluted. Watch out which one you buy in the future. Evapo-Rust is just that - removes rust. It has no effect on caked-on carbon or grease. This company also makes a product called Piston Kleen. Now PK will dissolve the carbon buildup on your pistons.
2) Another product that would have loosened those rings is old-fashioned toxic commercial carburetor cleaner. The kind that comes in a 5-gallon bucket with a dipping basket. I say old-fashioned because the new stuff is environmentally friendly and cleans nothing! Do not even know if they still make the old stuff.
3) Lifters and pushrods should be kept oriented to their respective holes, unless they are new.
4) The piston rings and cylinder walls should have been coated with motor oil prior to install.
5) The oil pump should have been primed prior to rotating the engine.
6) Mr. Gasket is an excellent gasket hold-in-place product.
7) Since you had it all torn down, it would have been wise to replace the water pump.
8) As old as the vehicle is, it may have dried and cracked belts. I would have replied them.
9) Sounds like you have a serious miss in the engine. Most would say it is an ignition issue. Although possible, I believe this is not the cause. Sounds to me you have a hydraulic lifter set too tight, or a valve has a serious pit in it causing blow-by. I see you did not have a valve job done on the heads. This may bite you later on.
There. I put my 2-cents in! I enjoy watching your videos. The the best to you and your family.
JD
When you buy from Harbor Fright the rule of thumb goes, if it can kill or maim you, don't buy from Harbor Fright. (This kind of goes for any cheap brands) Ouch, glad you didn't get hurt there.
@Jeff Kopis I actually haven't bought anything real expensive from them, but great advice. Thank you. I'm considering a Vulcan welder. Just want to learn, and don't want to spend the money on a Miller or Lincoln. Will make sure I add the warranty. I also know you can renew the warranty once they expire which is a nice feature.
By the time you pound the piston out of #2 you will have cleaned most of the rust off that wall via the rings. Hone the cylinders, put new rings on the pistons and bolt her back together. Engines are very forgiving beasts. You'll be fine. I have torn an engine apart, replaced one spun bearing and bolted the engine back together. Minimal crank damage. Engine ran fine. After you finish bolting it all back together taking very good care of the engine post rebuild is critical. Best of luck.
Nice this just shows you that you don't have to have specialty tools to rebuild an engine
Depends on the engine. Ancient American V8s? Definitely not.
@@yucannthahvitt hey! Its vintage 😆
@@LastChanceDiesel Well no matter what you call it, simplicity is its own advantage.
It might run but never like new. But probably just good enough. Maybe the other engine had better performance because it has better compression? Idk.. A real mechanical engineer might be able to tell this.
The only kinda serious thing you need to have is a torque wrench, all other stuff is much more common
Just something about working outside. Love it!
This is very quickly becoming one of my favorite RUclips channels.
Thanks for the great content!
Thanks friend!!
Well at least the info about the problem seems very correct. The 2 cylinders that would be right under it caught most of the crap with a steady flow.
When you reinstall pistons cover the studs with fuel line/hose so you do not damage journals.
For a boom truck putting around the farm, and occasionally heading to your other orojects- that 370 will make plenty of power- as long as it fits bell housings, clutch etc...
hope that pit isnt cavitation from the coolant passage. that cylinder is going to have some blow by and burn some oil. the others look like they will have some of the same. good enough for a truck that is used around the farm. looked like pistons were marked with oversized bore.
I love when I see two of my favorite RUclips channels talking to each other
Steve Rone. Me to
jason9022 i would trust what he says. He has a successful channel highlighting all his projects, he’s not some random person commenting on RUclips videos for fun
jason9022 jason9022 until you upload content showing what you’re capable of doing I will definitely call you the jackass.
@jason9022 ahh...bless your heart
Hi there Shade Tree Mechanic!! Very interesting and very entertaining. Thanks for putting it all on video for us to watch. - Dean from Minnesota
Stay with the 429 it's a Lima Engine, 370 will give you fits by the change overs you will have to do to make it work , I promise you I know by working on Fords all my Life !
Both 385 series BBF? Literally bolt in
@@BrandonLayMusic Thanks l gained some new Knowledge today !
The 370 and 429 are externally identical. Only real difference is the bore.
Use a prybar on the tea for the fly wheel gives you a lot of leverage. Have fun!
Keep working like that, we appreciate the info and your experience
You did what I would have done. Unless there is a hole in the cylinder some honing should make it run like it used to. I see it has been rebuilt before by the oversized stamps. You got a good deal.
You sometimes adopt the country bumpkin character, but you're a clever cookie, regards from Wales, Uk
Quick tip, I use 3/8 fuel line to cover the studs on the rods to keep anything from getting scrarched
Love it, "no work like the rework". So true. 😂
A good video, for me who does not understand much about engines. I hope that the church to apartments project is still moving ahead, too. I have discovered that many of these You tuber channel guys and gals, are pretty good at their presentations. He was on his farm, way off from anyone one else, speaking to 1,239 viewers, when I had viewed this. Harbor Freight sells some magnetic parts trays or dishes that you can place small metal parts in. Around $3.99 each. Even if you drop the tray, parts stay with it, not on the ground. They don't work with aluminum parts, though. I doubt if any engines have any aluminum parts.
As lomg as it works you didn't do anything wrong! When it doesn't work. Well,, at least you tried
I hope you kept all the bearings numbered and also noted the direction each were installed if you intend to reuse them and the crank shaft when you put the motor back together. No bearing wears the same on a crank shaft. Putting them back in the wrong order will cause faster crank shaft wear and an earlier than wanted engine failure. But if you plan on selling the crane right after you get it running, then the engine failure will not be your problem. :)
That motor is kinda heavy for that stand, not to mention leaving the flywheel and bell housing creates a lot of leverage
I haven't seen that clay since I worked up in the 'rustbelt'...that, my friend, is the same color of 'clay' as Ford's engine caster used to cast the blocks...and is MOST LIKELY 'casting clay' used for the engine block's casting. If the blocks are not properly 'shaken' after casting, or not fully rinsed of debris after they are cool, there can easily be 'chunks of casting clay' left in crevices within the block (especially the water jacket areas) that over time, get soft and fall into the water or oil journals. Same with the intake castings...if the casting sand is not freed from inside the intake, the same can happen (and would be the most-likely thing that caused the sand to hit the pistons). While it is possible this happened from another 'mechanic' using an old intake (looked like the left-bank had a different brand of head gasket than the right bank), an intake swap with a dirty intake can also cause this. Either way, these are the most-likely ways such 'clay-sand' materials got into the piston-chamber areas of that engine. Personally, I'd tear the engine completely down, wash all internals (knocking out the freeze plugs) and then have it dipped at your local auto parts house, before rebuilding it...or the same thing that happened this time could easily happen again...if all the sand-clay isn't gone already.
That clay could have possibly been a wasp nest
yeah the plugs were out when he bought it if i remember correctly
That was my guess. Mud daubers
I have seen a bit of JB Weld epoxy putty used to fill small holes/pitting in cylinder walls. It seems to work fine after honing.
I subscribed for shadetree mechanics👍🍺
Just watching when I done mechanic work professionally. I used spray adhesive to straighten and hold gaskets no silicone. Works great
If you haven't rebuilt a motor in a large room filled with trees and no doors or roof, you're not a tinkerer.
hey now that room you speak of is my shop love the comment
We call it ”the blue hall” over here because of the color of the roof 😄
“Physician he is” :-)
This is helpful for me. I'm needing to pull the heads off a V8 with just a carport to do it in. I'd much rather have a shop but it really is better than out in the wide open. And I agree with other you tubers. I've seen people free up stuck engines that most machinists would faint if you run them and they seem to do fine. Those chunks of mud could have been from mud dobber wasps. I've seen mouse nests and mud dobber nests in cylinders of engines that sat for long time. If the valve is open and the critter can get in the intake or up exhaust, they can build a nest.
Love watching you pull apart that engine, can't wait to see that puppy back in the truck and running. I understand that lifters and push rods should go back into the same wholes they came out of because of wear patterns, I assume for shade tree jobs that is not a requirement? lol or maybe you plan on putting new ones in?
Oh yea do you plan on making some kind of shield when the engine is back installed so rain water will not run down into it again, fix Ford's design problem there.
For any kind of cover/pan gasket, I've always attached the gasket to the sealing surface of the cover/pan and insert enough retaining screws (I always do them all) to keep the gasket in place and screws aligned up with holes.
use fuel line on rod studs and they cant ding a journal
I'll bet that crank looks as rough as a sweet gum tree after all that beating
@@Vintageguy73 yep! It made me cringe hearing him say the rod bolt against the crank journal was the reason the piston wouldn't come out. And also driving the piston out with a metal punch and driving a screwdriver in between the rod cap and the rod to remove the cap
I gave up on Fords along time ago. Spent all my free weekends trying to keep a ford 1985 F150 on the road. I got to know that engine very well. When I got the truck the computer didn't work because it wasn't getting voltage. The main wiring harness that came from the firewall had a loop at the bottom. At the very bottom of this loop some engineer decided that would be a great place to put a non insulated copper crimp to feed the computer. Simply wrapped in black electric tape. Water gets on the wiring and collects at the bottom loop corroding the connection. Just to save on a 20 cent plastic connection.
The stuff is many bottles of stop leak.
William Cantalamessa 👍
William Cantalamessa .....probably right
Wouldn’t stop leak be in the oil or coolant systems not built up in the combustion chamber. It would blow right out the exhaust if running.. like steam with bad head gasket.. mud wasps seems fairly plausible if it sat..
I rebuilt the top end of a VT903-525 Cummins in a canvas tent... in Iraq. That's a nice tree and looks like great place to build an engine.
You can put 8000 dollars into it and still be money ahead on a new crane truck.
Hey nobody is gonna judge if it works then ship it down the road and Get a bit of profit or just keep it as it would probably be nice to have it around great work and thanks for the awesome content
Edited stay safe and take care
i just drove past the RB lot yesterday and drooling at all the big boy toys lol
You are a stubborn sort of perfectionist. You do nice work.
I can't say anything as I would've done the same thing.
Dirt fixes everything - makes cylinders and lifters work smoothly and everybody knows spit combined with dirt heals all wounds!
Great job M-Shady as always!
Looks like the truck was in a flood, engine filled with good old mud. I would check transmission for water...
My F-600 dump has the same motor. It’s no diesel but I can’t knock it. It’s been bullet proof for me. Definitely a well made motor.
That engine looks to of been bored out before they got the oversize number on the tops of the pistons so maybe why it locked up a low mile engine will lock up long before a loose engine with lots of miles on it will but the heads been off that thing those are aftermarket head gaskets and the pistons are not factory so that engine has been rebuilt before as far as I can see
On more than 1 engine that I bought that was seized up, I pulled the plugs, and filled the cylinders with a 50/50 mix of diesel and transmission fluid. 90% of the time the engine would turn over within 24 hours.
ATF is what I learned from the shade tree mechanics to put in the cylinders on an engine that had been sitting. Mixing with something to thin it out some makes a lot of sense.
The mud could be a mud daubers wasp nest that was liquefied by the diesel.
I had a '66 Mustang with a 289, if you needed to change the water pump, literally every accessory on the front of the engine was bolted to the water pump housing/timing chain cover. You had to strip the whole front of the engine just to get the pump off and change it. It appears that is a trait of all Fords so nice at least the early 1960's.
I support ya I would have done the same thing. Good job
Matt, I enjoyed the quick and dirty rebuild! I’m sure it will be just fine. You definitely have to pick your battles, time, and cost on these mechanical projects. With all these RUclips channels restoring completely rusty relics after 500 man hours into pristine condition, people have become to expect the same for every project elsewhere on RUclips which is just unrealistic!
Good job Matt, you know I cringe Everytime I put a engine on a stand.
Shade tree auto repair and service
Central California watching
Shade tree rebuild is what I would expect for channel and I love it!👍👍👍
I'm here to tell you that you're doing it wrong!
HAHA But it feels so so right!!
first AND second !!
I'll bet your Wife told you say that!! He just doing some you always wanted to do. Good to see you Guys are support each other.
Hey Wes ,,
What you think of the bore with the pit hole n skid mark down the lenght of it ,, even after it was honed
@@Sircraig7963 Of course it's not ideal, but not everything has to be perfect. A little blow by on one cylinder is still a lot better than seized up!
Great sense of humor...yes dirty bolts and nuts full of sand are really great for performance.
You got me . when you started talking about Fords great engineering. I thought wtf this guy is FUBAR. You got me
Nicely done, and by the looks of it you'll probably end up with a runner. Good of your neighbour to give to a spare though.
Engine designers never work on them
Many designers in general never even visit the factory floor where the shit they drafted together is actually being made
Yelling at you for rebuilding it, HECK NO! Screaming at you to do it!!! Fantastic idea!