I know people re-build engines all the time, but to do it "in the woods" and ... and (I guess fire it up again) make it run, is just amazing. I'm 39 minutes in, if it will fire up I'll have another whiskey on you. Cheers!
Tip for straightening cork gaskets prior to installation: Wet the cork gasket with water, lay on a flat surface. Place a cookie sheet (pan) on top of the wet gasket. Lay some heavy books or items on the cookie sheet, let the gasket dry overnight. When you remove the books and cookie sheet, you will find a nice, dry & flat cork gasket ready for installation.
I definitely believe in the "get er done way".Reusing bearings, not replacing the rear main, or timing chain, leaving the rusty valve seats and the old stem seals I was fine with, but gosh dang it bobby, don't mix the lifters. Unless they're roller type then it don't matter.
@@VinnyMartello Seriously. They're so cheap. Don't know if I would've reused those pistons the way they were either. I guess if if they measure out to spec they're okay, but they looked pretty rough.
Nice! That was a lot of work jammed into a video! I pretty much install all multi-disk clutches by hanging the clutch on the input shaft and then bolting up the pressure plate through the inspection cover.
The lifters should be kept in the location they were taken out of and if you think the heads are heavy now wait until your 65. I’ve “freshened up” engines in this manner keeping costs as low as possible and had good runners, won’t last as long as new but quite possibly longer than vehicle it’s going in. Keep up the good work.
I was thinking the same thing, lifters in any old hole, reusing head bolts and a few other things I wouldn't do. It is definitely a shade tree rebuild, but I enjoyed watching anyway.
Fine job , a testament to all the great shade tree boys. You don’t have to have a shop over your head to get results. Great 👍 Content. Years ago wrapped a 2x4 frame work with tarps and a salamander to repair a Dump truck motor. It was midwinter and 10 degrees. If there’s a will there’s always a way.
@Randy Johnson Or 110* summers, with mosquitos so big they have to use ATC (Air Traffic Control) before they land to suck your blood ("Skeeter One Niner, you're cleared for descent to left buttcheek, over"). But I'm fighting back! I got me a dose of cancer, so now when those suckers bite me I'm gonna give 'em a dose of the Big C!!! Ain't Life Grand!??!
The fact that you say your memory isn't so good but yet you can do this engine rebuild with no problem isn't that unusual. Memory is a funny thing. My wife has always been amazed with my memory of all things large & small, important and insignificant.....except for one thing. I often have a heck of time remembering names of new acquaintances. I am talking even minutes later. After about the third encounter I've got it but at first it can be a little embarrassing.
I bet you do remember the names of people that are important to you. I have the same problem. I ran a shift of 50 people I told them if I remember your name you are either a good worker or a pain in my a$$
Try using the person's name three times in the first conversation you have with them. For example: "Well Bob. It's been great meeting you. Say Bob, when you get that truck going I need to do a dump run. That's if you have the time Bob, otherwise, don't worry."
I have the same problem, but I found that I'd remember a name if I read it. Either a business card, or even visualizing what the name looks like written down helps.
She's running Matt, that's gotta be good enough. I'm guessing the crane hours will rise quicker than the mileage anyway. I notice a few comments about "when you sell it"; I reckon she'll be with you for a while though. 𝑰𝒇 the crane can be got to work pretty easily/cheaply, you'll find a use for it. After you've used it once, you'll decide you're keeping it. With the kind of place you have, that crane will be in nearly daily use; keep the wee forklift at home for the garage. 👍👌 If everything does work, I'd paint her up and get your name on the doors. Word will soon get out - "Oh Matt's got a crane, ask him". You'll get your $700 back in the first couple of weeks, the next couple should pay for the repairs, then it's all profit. 😁👍 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Shows what can be done with minimum expense, even under non ideal working conditions, and alone! Great work! On another subject, the starter solenoid wiring: The pink wire is a resistance wire, used in lieu of a separate ballast resistor. It connects (depending on the model)from the ignition switch to the + terminal on the coil, OR to the "ign" terminal on the solenoid. There should also be a wire from the ign terminal on the solenoid to the + coil terminal. The purpose of this is to provide straight 12 volts to the coil when cranking, and providing lower voltage to the coil when running, running direct 12 volts to the coil will likely damage the coil shortly, and also burn up the points. (been there, done that) That ign terminal on the starter solenoid is hot when the solenoid is in the cranking position. The other small terminal should be marked S or sw and is the one that makes the solenoid operate. It goes to the starter terminal on the ignition switch. Since your truck is too new to have the good old in dash ignition switch, it is outside my experience. I'm just an electrician, not a real mechanic!
@nobodys home shows what you know bub, keep your wrong opinions to yourself, otherwise someone will prove you wrong and you will make yourself out to be a fool.
I have to say for anyone doing this at home never just toss the lifters and push rods in a pan always keep them in order for each cylinder and keep the push rods matched to there lifters. the cam in your engine has a wear pattern on each lifter and if you put the wrong lifter back you risk the chance of wiping out the cam, the lifters or both . It's easy to keep everything in order with an old egg carton for the lifters and a sheet of card board for the push rods it's the one time it pays to keep it in the same order it came out. the same go's for the connecting rods if you plan on reusing the old bearings and don't replace them be sure to put the same rod in the hole it came out of it's all been worn in together keep it that way the engine will last a lot longer if you do.
3 tips. 1st cut to size and use 3/8 fuel line at the ends of the rod bolts when installing the pistons. Insurance to protect the crank. 2nd using a shop vise to hold rod and piston to while getting the old rings off and the installing the new rings on piston. 3rd would have been using RTV Black around the water ports before installing the intake gasket/metal manifold. Great job
Matt, I don't remember the amount of subscribers you had when I found your channel almost a year ago, but I'm so happy to see how many subscribers you have now💖👍👍 Great episodes of watching a hard working dude with a ton of knowledge and mechanical know how rebuilding this engine and getting old Cranie fired up. Always great content and I look forward to your next episode no matter what it is you're doing. You and yours stay healthy and safe, say hey to Meatball and Roscoe from me and cheers from this old retired coot living in Tennessee.💖 👍 😷 🍻 🐶 ✌
Tip: when putting pistons in. put spark plug rubbers on bolts to prevent hitting crank journal going in. Also never put fingers on bearings without oiling them first as acid from fingers will eat the bearings.
The fall leaf colors are pretty. Oh yeah, and a great job with rebuilding the motor. Hope the wiring issue(s) are easy to resolve. Your channel is both fun and educational.
It definitely was just a boat anchor prior to your partial engine rebuild so it does sound like she's banging on all eight so congrats my friend now to the exhaust and the crane hydraulics, well done.🇨🇦🇺🇸
i'm impressed with how it started first time!!!! Unless they've done it - folks don't realize how much work there is in overhauling an engine and getting it running. And thats a big heavy dam motor.
Your first one is hard after that they are fun I got it down to a weekend job to pull the engine out and replace it. by my self. after the second time, I put a terminal block with a plug so all the wires that went to the engine would just unplug.
My tip for gaskets...sewing thread..tie gasket in place by running thread through bolt holes. In as many places as needed..put pan or valve cover or whatever it may be. Start bolts and then snip thread and pull out thread..a bit of a pain but works really well
Nomenclature, nomenclature, nomenclature. Rod bearings go in the connecting rods, Main bearings go in the main bearing saddles and support the crankshaft in the block. Cam bearings support the camshaft in the engine block. Always taught to lube pistons, rings and rod bearings before assembly. Just some thoughts from an old man. Enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing.
I've rebuilt those Ford relays. Drill out the rivet heads, open it up, turn the contacts/bolts 1/4 turn. Flip over the big copper washer. TIGHTEN ALL NUTS ! Save $50.
I like the yellow 3M weather strip adhesive for gaskets . Put it on surface, put gasket on move it around a little, pull it off, let them air about 10 min., put gasket back on in place and it will not move.. seals good too, they have it at auto parts stores.
That vice grip and a broken ring to clean out the ring grooves really brought back memories. I must’ve cleaned 200 pistons when I was a kid. We would tear an engine down and I would do the cleaning and then while dad did other stuff or ordered parts or whatever I’d sit down and start cleaning the grooves out and then we could go back together with it. I vaguely recall using some kind of a ring cleaner once, could not tell you anything about it, But I went back to the vice grips and the broken ring and I liked it better. Keep up the good work this is fun and it brings back lots of memories from the early and mid-50s.
Just an fyi, engine oil does not make a good assembly lube. So please either use engine assembly lube, or something like STP engine oil treatment. And I will admit I found that out the hard way, when rebuilding a 305 Chevy. So let that by the tip of the day Matt.
2.6 tks, I loved watching all of it. Very nice. I like the way that you describe what you are doing. tks 2/12.24, watching and learning, as I have no experience with 6 or 8 cyl auto engines. Seeing Matt do all this 3.18.24 and putting it back together is the FIRST time ever seen.... Thanks.
You just pull the cable out with a pick up and attach the other end to the drum. When you roll it up you will notice that the tail end is still new with no wear, as long as it is not rusted. All the big crane rental yards do this to save a ton of money.
The Quartermaster* Success Matt! For a while there, you made the guys in the Pakistani diesel rebuild video look like they were working in a super sterilized operating room! Pro's with crane lifts, pressure air to blow the rust and dirt off, and enough pre-lube to start a factory diesel generator! BUT! The end result was a good running Ford 429 cu. In. truck motor! Great job once again! You showed us that you're a gifted and resourceful mechanic!
Oh, and that 'suddenly won't turn off with the key' thing...most-likely, your ignition switch block (on the steering column under the dash) most-likely is lose and shifted...just move it back to a proper spot that it 'tracks right' with the key (they have pilot holes on the mounts, so that you can do this intentionally). Takes 5-seconds...no biggie for a quick repair...but DON'T OVER-TORQUE, or you'll have broken mini-screws that are a PAIN to take out!
Very entertaining stuff. You hurt my heart a little when you started the spark plugs with a friggin impact. Stick a six inch length of fuel hose over the porcelain end to get em started....then you'll know they're not cross threaded. Very important.
Your channel has made it to the top 3 of my que. I subscribe to over 80 channels and I watch all of them. Great content my friend. You can't use a standard wire wheel on pistons but in this case I would have used a soft brass wire wheel. They wouldn't scratch the steel but those piston ring slots looked like they needed some extra help.
So cool how your able to get the job done in a field, with basic tools, and country know how. Hope you make a ton of money for another project. Keep up the good work brother.
16:32. I just use the pan itself to flatten the gasket, face down on a "flat surface". I have also used the block itself as the flat surface if it's gonna be awhile getting back to the project, Just apply very light pressure on the bolts.
Smile at the end says it all. Been there, done that. Rebuilt the front end and the engine in my mum's car one winter on the drive, with snow on the ground and more coming down. Had so many layers on I looked like like the Michelin man! However, the car was rebuilt and back on the road by New Year's Eve. She drove that for a few more years before trading it in. It isn't ideal working on vehicles outside but awful lot of us don't have workshops or garages. Needs must.
For future reference with stuck rings... use brass wire wheel or soft wire wheel. ... much faster getting them out but don't use a TON of pressure or you naturally will damage the piston. ;-)
Ford and international no longer use gaskets at all they use the gray stuff it is a type of RTV gasket maker I thought it was weird when I first started 20 years ago using it but trust me that's what Ford recommends and that's what international recommends it's just Gray sealant and eliminate the gaskets like your channel keep doing what you're doing
All I gotta say is the youth of today should be thankful to the Internet, in my day we had manuals at best, parts came from a guy looking at a slide on a monitor. Your videos instil confidence that anybody can be a mechanic, way to go👍
I know this is a shade tree rebuild but i’ve always been taught to rebuild my engines dry. The bearings will never seat and it will leak oil like a serve if you rebuild with everything lubricated. There will be a fine layer that will keep the bearings from seating.. You’ll have problems with your connecting rods and main bearings. It will leak oil from the front and rear seals. Just adding a few pointers that most people don’t know. I’m sure it will run for a little bit but eventually it will need replaced again. It will get you bye-bye only for temporarily. When you rebuild a engine it should be dry no lubrication. When you have it all together and you put the oil pan on you should be able to take a socket and put it on the crankshaft and put a prybar on it at 0°. You should be able to rotate the engine to the right until is at 90° and it will lock up solid. That is when you add your oil. After adding your oil you spend the motor back to 0° and put your distributor in plugs etc. your engine will be ready to start after that. If your engine does not lock up at 90° your bearings are loose, too loose to score the bearings to seat them correctly. The way you can tell your engine is going to score the bearings correctly is if it locks up at 90°.. If the engine doesn’t turn all the way to 90° you got your bearings too tight. This means you will have to take everything apart just like you would if it travels past 90°. The only thing different on a diesel is negative the ignition parts. Just adding a few lines so people know the difference when rebuilding a fresh engine not a shade tree engine. Mechanics will have to know this if they take their ASE certification Tess. Are used to work for a guy helping him rebuild engines all the time. His favorites were Chevy 350s. Everyone of them had front seal leakage because he greased the front main, I never figured it out until I went to school.
If it's anything like the rolls of thin cork sheet I buy for crafting, then a little bit of steam to soften the fibres before pinning it flat and letting it dry should work. Please note, I am no mechanic and wouldn't know one end of an engine from the other ;)
Use a steam iron on the pan gasket. I have also used dental floss threaded through the pan bolt holes and the block holes. You don't need to tighten the floss, a tiny knot will do the trick. Floss is fairly strong. One other piece of info. I was taught that the push rods and the lifters needed to be paired as they were removed nd that it is best to pump up the lifters in a pan of oil. I use ATF which is a finer oil than engine oil as I'm sure you know. The pumped up lifters will go to work immediately. Better than waiting for the oil pressure to fill them. Nice video.
a little tip for piston installs. get a couple hunks of rubber tubing to stick on the bearing studs about 3-6 inches long. acts as a guide to center the bearing on the crank and protects the crank, and the studs, from damage.
I can’t believe it ran! Now for the hydraulics. You are going to have some fun here! I would definitely make sure that tank is filled with hydraulic oil you should be able to see it in the site glass. If you don’t see any, find a way to check it with dip stick but you should be able to see it at the site class.
Weird how that engine can look super heavy duty, and flimsy cheap at the same time. Old beer cans are thicker than that oil pan, and covers. Yet some of the brackets could be used to mount an overhead crane.
Yeah it might be better for a small hit to just deform the plate rather than cause a crack or hole to form, so some small bump doesn't cause you to lose your oil
Curried goat or goat curry (depending on the roots of the dish) is blimming lovely. Only had it a few times but will always pick it if its on the menu.
@@TechGorilla1987 ah I see. Well if you come across a place that sell curried goat don't ever call it goat curry - they will surely correct you (the same in reverse). Either way goat dishes are great.
@@TechGorilla1987 I ate it last here... mullinsbrasserie.co.uk/menu/ (in their regular menu), and they call it curried goat. A little too hot for me but I powered through it.
Absolutely amazing that the splines on the clutch lined up and slipped onto the transmission shaft. You are truly skilled. I have done shade tree work in the past but NEVER alone, and had the success that you have had. Congratulations on a job very well done!!!
I've cranked out many an engine job in the field, always fun when they go, i also have one of those oil cans, i as with my dad when he bought it at Sears many many moons ago.
People are always entitled to their opinions, yours is the only one that matters in this case. You've done a great job just getting this wannabe wreck running. It's not going to be used for anything but running about on your own properties so as a 'ranch' vehicle, it's just fine. Good job, and can't wait to see the old girl back working.
In 1959, then I was 14 and my Dad was teaching me to rebuild a 1956 Plymouth V8, he taught me a trick about cork gaskets. He used bakers string ( used to tie up packages in the bakery) it was light, and strong. And tied the gasket to the pan, or valve cover, or whatever.
At nine minutes 30 seconds, installing the pistons, use a short piece of rubber tubing over each rod bolt when inserting the piston. This does a fine job of preventing any scarring of the crank journals.
I have tied tied the one piece gasket to the pan with fishing line, threading about every other bolt hole to the gasket bolt hole, I’ve also made studs with straight screwdriver slots in the end for easy removal after pan is on and holds gasket in place!
I enjoyed this long video. Just learning how these cylinders are put back together. I am not an engine kinda guy, but I love to learn stuff like this, in case I ever need it. Keep the content coming. I also love the reference to Vice Grip Garage. I hear many of you car enthusiasts refer to him. I have been following his channel through Covid as well. Thank you all for the entertainment.
I need to get some of my own lines lol it’s so tempting to steal his too because I honestly have the same humor and the whole “that’s fine” thing, I was doing that long before I found his channel lol
If I had a nickel for everytime I said " Well I'll be Dipped ", I would be a Very, Very Rich Man. I'm 64 at present time and I have been saying that phrase for close to or over 50 years. So I will say it again. Well I'll be Dipped. Matt, I hate Cliff Hangers.
Unless Derek has been using it before 2012 I'd say he borrowed it from a movie. I still laugh when I watch VGG. This is my first time watching DC channel.
Hi Matt, last winter, I used that red gasket to glue and aluminium patch to a 2inch hole in the glass of our wood burner and it worked all winter. I now have a new glass installed. Love your videos in Australia. Cheers mate.
Wow, you did an amazing "shade tree engine rebuild" on that motor with excellent results! I cannot wait to see the next video in which you do trace down the key issue, and clean up the truck! Please keep up the exceptionally brilliant job at producing amazing RUclips content! Well done, Matt!
Except for not using brake clean to start it after dumping fire maker down the hole, and I notice you didn't check the stuff in the tank, I think you deserve a cold snack or two for a job well done !!
Currently rebuilding a 460 myself, and being quite the perfectionist I'm constantly worried if I should clean a gasket surface just a little more, or replace a part because it has a tiny bit of rust on it somewhere, it is quite refreshing to see a build like this. It reminds me that I don't need to be so paranoid about everything.
@@Dustball460 lmao and the bearings but... man I'd keep this motor around for a Car later on after he's done with that crane truck [maybe put another motor in the truck and keep this for a Galaxy, Fairlane or Mustang].
Not as Important but also would’ve been a nice time to pop the grill out of the front and do a quick white rattle can paint job, raise the value about $1000……
I know people re-build engines all the time, but to do it "in the woods" and ... and (I guess fire it up again) make it run, is just amazing. I'm 39 minutes in, if it will fire up I'll have another whiskey on you. Cheers!
Tip for straightening cork gaskets prior to installation: Wet the cork gasket with water, lay on a flat surface. Place a cookie sheet (pan) on top of the wet gasket. Lay some heavy books or items on the cookie sheet, let the gasket dry overnight. When you remove the books and cookie sheet, you will find a nice, dry & flat cork gasket ready for installation.
I definitely believe in the "get er done way".Reusing bearings, not replacing the rear main, or timing chain, leaving the rusty valve seats and the old stem seals I was fine with, but gosh dang it bobby, don't mix the lifters. Unless they're roller type then it don't matter.
I couldn’t do it. If a motor comes apart I’m replacing ALL the bearings.
@@VinnyMartello Seriously. They're so cheap. Don't know if I would've reused those pistons the way they were either. I guess if if they measure out to spec they're okay, but they looked pretty rough.
For real. If a motor comes apart in my garage it’s getting bearings.
Well atleast him putting the plugs back in with an impact didn’t bother you. That could of been bad
It may be wrong but it feels so right. Enjoyed your tenacity.
Great Video Matt
Hello Matt I wish I knew just 10% of mechanical knowledge you have love watching all your videos, you are an engine guru keep it up😅
Nice! That was a lot of work jammed into a video! I pretty much install all multi-disk clutches by hanging the clutch on the input shaft and then bolting up the pressure plate through the inspection cover.
Now THAT, is a genuine hillbilly rebuild right there boy. In my experience, works every time. Well done.
I an totally impressed with how you handled this project. You did what you had to do without allowing project creep to get in the way. Great job!
Project Creep. One of the worst types of creep.
a tip for gaskets, gasket tack is your friend. any funky bent or hard to access / assemble gasket you can just stick it on and not fuss with it.
I gotta say, you and Derek from Vice Grip Garage are the most entertaining wrenching channels on RUclips.
Close enough is good enough. 👍
I hear ya, but you cannot forget Jennings Motor Sport! Lol😂😂
The lifters should be kept in the location they were taken out of and if you think the heads are heavy now wait until your 65. I’ve “freshened up” engines in this manner keeping costs as low as possible and had good runners, won’t last as long as new but quite possibly longer than vehicle it’s going in. Keep up the good work.
Use egg cartons and Label the bore the lifter came out of is a Must due to wear patterns on the lifter and cam surfaces.
By NOT using a return from where it came from approach with the lifters; you prematurely age the cam and lifters by excessive wear-in.
You might use contact cement to stick down gaskets especially cork. It’s worked for me and quicker than etc.
I was thinking the same thing, lifters in any old hole, reusing head bolts and a few other things I wouldn't do. It is definitely a shade tree rebuild, but I enjoyed watching anyway.
well,he had it apart.....why he didnt go new....is why i'd never buy off of him,but i do like the videos.:P
Craigslist ad would say, fresh rebuilt with brand new parts! Basically new motor!
Lol ya.... sorta lmao
Fine job , a testament to all the great shade tree boys. You don’t have to have a shop over your head to get results. Great 👍 Content. Years ago wrapped a 2x4 frame work with tarps and a salamander to repair a Dump truck motor. It was midwinter and 10 degrees. If there’s a will there’s always a way.
@Randy Johnson Or 110* summers, with mosquitos so big they have to use ATC (Air Traffic Control) before they land to suck your blood ("Skeeter One Niner, you're cleared for descent to left buttcheek, over").
But I'm fighting back! I got me a dose of cancer, so now when those suckers bite me I'm gonna give 'em a dose of the Big C!!! Ain't Life Grand!??!
Absolutely
@@thomream1888 Mosquitos don't like radiation poisoning. Go get them killer!
@@HeyItsJonny HAHAHA!!! Get Some!!!
Truly impressed...reminds me of my younger days when I would work on my car until midnight so it would start the next morning...
The fact that you say your memory isn't so good but yet you can do this engine rebuild with no problem isn't that unusual. Memory is a funny thing. My wife has always been amazed with my memory of all things large & small, important and insignificant.....except for one thing. I often have a heck of time remembering names of new acquaintances. I am talking even minutes later. After about the third encounter I've got it but at first it can be a little embarrassing.
I bet you do remember the names of people that are important to you. I have the same problem. I ran a shift of 50 people I told them if I remember your name you are either a good worker or a pain in my a$$
@@ypop417 LOLz!
As others have stated, you're NOT alone in this! I forget names 2,3,4, or more times before I remember them, but I NEVER forget a face!
Try using the person's name three times in the first conversation you have with them. For example: "Well Bob. It's been great meeting you. Say Bob, when you get that truck going I need to do a dump run. That's if you have the time Bob, otherwise, don't worry."
I have the same problem, but I found that I'd remember a name if I read it. Either a business card, or even visualizing what the name looks like written down helps.
She's running Matt, that's gotta be good enough. I'm guessing the crane hours will rise quicker than the mileage anyway. I notice a few comments about "when you sell it"; I reckon she'll be with you for a while though. 𝑰𝒇 the crane can be got to work pretty easily/cheaply, you'll find a use for it. After you've used it once, you'll decide you're keeping it. With the kind of place you have, that crane will be in nearly daily use; keep the wee forklift at home for the garage. 👍👌
If everything does work, I'd paint her up and get your name on the doors. Word will soon get out - "Oh Matt's got a crane, ask him". You'll get your $700 back in the first couple of weeks, the next couple should pay for the repairs, then it's all profit. 😁👍
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
Shows what can be done with minimum expense, even under non ideal working conditions, and alone! Great work!
On another subject, the starter solenoid wiring: The pink wire is a resistance wire, used in lieu of a separate ballast resistor. It connects (depending on the model)from the ignition switch to the + terminal on the coil, OR to the "ign" terminal on the solenoid. There should also be a wire from the ign terminal on the solenoid to the + coil terminal. The purpose of this is to provide straight 12 volts to the coil when cranking, and providing lower voltage to the coil when running, running direct 12 volts to the coil will likely damage the coil shortly, and also burn up the points. (been there, done that) That ign terminal on the starter solenoid is hot when the solenoid is in the cranking position. The other small terminal should be marked S or sw and is the one that makes the solenoid operate. It goes to the starter terminal on the ignition switch. Since your truck is too new to have the good old in dash ignition switch, it is outside my experience. I'm just an electrician, not a real mechanic!
@nobodys home shows what you know bub, keep your wrong opinions to yourself, otherwise someone will prove you wrong and you will make yourself out to be a fool.
I have to say for anyone doing this at home never just toss the lifters and push rods in a pan always keep them in order for each cylinder and keep the push rods matched to there lifters. the cam in your engine has a wear pattern on each lifter and if you put the wrong lifter back you risk the chance of wiping out the cam, the lifters or both . It's easy to keep everything in order with an old egg carton for the lifters and a sheet of card board for the push rods it's the one time it pays to keep it in the same order it came out. the same go's for the connecting rods if you plan on reusing the old bearings and don't replace them be sure to put the same rod in the hole it came out of it's all been worn in together keep it that way the engine will last a lot longer if you do.
"IT'S ALIVE..."IT'S ALIVE.....Well done man,and thanks for taking all the time to put this together for us your'a star.
3 tips. 1st cut to size and use 3/8 fuel line at the ends of the rod bolts when installing the pistons. Insurance to protect the crank. 2nd using a shop vise to hold rod and piston to while getting the old rings off and the installing the new rings on piston. 3rd would have been using RTV Black around the water ports before installing the intake gasket/metal manifold. Great job
Matt, I don't remember the amount of subscribers you had when I found your channel almost a year ago, but I'm so happy to see how many subscribers you have now💖👍👍 Great episodes of watching a hard working dude with a ton of knowledge and mechanical know how rebuilding this engine and getting old Cranie fired up. Always great content and I look forward to your next episode no matter what it is you're doing. You and yours stay healthy and safe, say hey to Meatball and Roscoe from me and cheers from this old retired coot living in Tennessee.💖 👍 😷 🍻 🐶 ✌
Tip: when putting pistons in. put spark plug rubbers on bolts to prevent hitting crank journal going in. Also never put fingers on bearings without oiling them first as acid from fingers will eat the bearings.
The fall leaf colors are pretty. Oh yeah, and a great job with rebuilding the motor. Hope the wiring issue(s) are easy to resolve. Your channel is both fun and educational.
And look like a jar of weed from above
U did a grt job,Matt.Itwas a pleasure to watch u do the rebuild
It definitely was just a boat anchor prior to your partial engine rebuild so it does sound like she's banging on all eight so congrats my friend now to the exhaust and the crane hydraulics, well done.🇨🇦🇺🇸
Were I'm from thats as full a rebuild as he's going to get.
i'm impressed with how it started first time!!!! Unless they've done it - folks don't realize how much work there is in overhauling an engine and getting it running. And thats a big heavy dam motor.
Your right about that!
Impressive. I can't imagine doing anything like that. Good job! I could tell you were enjoying it even the frustrating bits.
Your first one is hard after that they are fun I got it down to a weekend job to pull the engine out and replace it. by my self. after the second time, I put a terminal block with a plug so all the wires that went to the engine would just unplug.
My tip for gaskets...sewing thread..tie gasket in place by running thread through bolt holes. In as many places as needed..put pan or valve cover or whatever it may be. Start bolts and then snip thread and pull out thread..a bit of a pain but works really well
Nomenclature, nomenclature, nomenclature. Rod bearings go in the connecting rods, Main bearings go in the main bearing saddles and support the crankshaft in the block. Cam bearings support the camshaft in the engine block. Always taught to lube pistons, rings and rod bearings before assembly. Just some thoughts from an old man. Enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing.
He did squirt oil in there.
I've rebuilt those Ford relays.
Drill out the rivet heads, open it up, turn the contacts/bolts 1/4 turn. Flip over the big copper washer. TIGHTEN ALL NUTS ! Save $50.
I like the yellow 3M weather strip adhesive for gaskets . Put it on surface, put gasket on move it around a little, pull it off, let them air about 10 min., put gasket back on in place and it will not move.. seals good too, they have it at auto parts stores.
3m weather strip adhesive is haus I've used it over 20 years for gaskets great to use if you build things never to come back a part
Another 3M user here.
Me too
That vice grip and a broken ring to clean out the ring grooves really brought back memories. I must’ve cleaned 200 pistons when I was a kid. We would tear an engine down and I would do the cleaning and then while dad did other stuff or ordered parts or whatever I’d sit down and start cleaning the grooves out and then we could go back together with it. I vaguely recall using some kind of a ring cleaner once, could not tell you anything about it, But I went back to the vice grips and the broken ring and I liked it better. Keep up the good work this is fun and it brings back lots of memories from the early and mid-50s.
Wow, I cheered silently when I heard it gasp back to life! Well done. I'm sure it was a ton more work than we saw on the video.
Nothing wrong in my book with how you tackled this, and well done in turning it from a rusty "nope" to a runner. Good job.
Just an fyi, engine oil does not make a good assembly lube. So please either use engine assembly lube, or something like STP engine oil treatment. And I will admit I found that out the hard way, when rebuilding a 305 Chevy. So let that by the tip of the day Matt.
My step dad was a gm master mechanic for 35 years and he had one saying for STP Stop The Puston lmao I got a chuckle out of that
2.6 tks, I loved watching all of it. Very nice. I like the way that you describe what you are doing. tks 2/12.24, watching and learning, as I have no experience with 6 or 8 cyl auto engines. Seeing Matt do all this 3.18.24 and putting it back together is the FIRST time ever seen.... Thanks.
Learn from Brian Block and replace the cable before lifting anything heavy.
Poor dude, his "Oops" echos still
That was one of the scarier things I’ve ever seen in a RUclips video.
You just pull the cable out with a pick up and attach the other end to the drum. When you roll it up you will notice that the tail end is still new with no wear, as long as it is not rusted. All the big crane rental yards do this to save a ton of money.
@@myfavoritemartian1 Hell of an idea, but that's just common sense, Awh, wait, some not got a cent's worth.
You got that gnarly thing straightened out, Cowabunga!
The Quartermaster*
Success Matt!
For a while there, you made the guys in the Pakistani diesel rebuild video look like they were working in a super sterilized operating room! Pro's with crane lifts, pressure air to blow the rust and dirt off, and enough pre-lube to start a factory diesel generator! BUT! The end result was a good running Ford 429 cu. In. truck motor! Great job once again! You showed us that you're a gifted and resourceful mechanic!
Oh, and that 'suddenly won't turn off with the key' thing...most-likely, your ignition switch block (on the steering column under the dash) most-likely is lose and shifted...just move it back to a proper spot that it 'tracks right' with the key (they have pilot holes on the mounts, so that you can do this intentionally). Takes 5-seconds...no biggie for a quick repair...but DON'T OVER-TORQUE, or you'll have broken mini-screws that are a PAIN to take out!
I'm betting the switch was bad from the start. Hence the push button for the starter.
@@bmacd2112 Someone is paying attention.
Very entertaining stuff. You hurt my heart a little when you started the spark plugs with a friggin impact. Stick a six inch length of fuel hose over the porcelain end to get em started....then you'll know they're not cross threaded. Very important.
Yeh, that could have been a really bad day
Your channel has made it to the top 3 of my que. I subscribe to over 80 channels and I watch all of them. Great content my friend.
You can't use a standard wire wheel on pistons but in this case I would have used a soft brass wire wheel. They wouldn't scratch the steel but those piston ring slots looked like they needed some extra help.
Ahh good old Forest engine rebuilds Just Classic Matt 6:13 @Diesel Creek
So cool how your able to get the job done in a field, with basic tools, and country know how. Hope you make a ton of money for another project. Keep up the good work brother.
16:32. I just use the pan itself to flatten the gasket, face down on a "flat surface". I have also used the block itself as the flat surface if it's gonna be awhile getting back to the project, Just apply very light pressure on the bolts.
Wow. That was damn impressive Matt. Great work. If you sell it, hope you get many thousands. You earned it!!
Smile at the end says it all. Been there, done that. Rebuilt the front end and the engine in my mum's car one winter on the drive, with snow on the ground and more coming down. Had so many layers on I looked like like the Michelin man! However, the car was rebuilt and back on the road by New Year's Eve. She drove that for a few more years before trading it in. It isn't ideal working on vehicles outside but awful lot of us don't have workshops or garages. Needs must.
For future reference with stuck rings... use brass wire wheel or soft wire wheel. ... much faster getting them out but don't use a TON of pressure or you naturally will damage the piston.
;-)
I gotta love a guy that rebuilds he is engines outside under a tarp!!! Rock on!!!
Ford and international no longer use gaskets at all they use the gray stuff it is a type of RTV gasket maker I thought it was weird when I first started 20 years ago using it but trust me that's what Ford recommends and that's what international recommends it's just Gray sealant and eliminate the gaskets like your channel keep doing what you're doing
That guy on extreme 4x4 never uses gaskets.
My old saturn beat up car doesn't use gaskets for the oil pan or timing case as well
Not surprised at the squeal at 46:30
You can see the belt moving a lot. That tells a good story that you can read quite easily.
Well done Matt. I really enjoyed your video. Greetings from South Africa.
All I gotta say is the youth of today should be thankful to the Internet, in my day we had manuals at best, parts came from a guy looking at a slide on a monitor. Your videos instil confidence that anybody can be a mechanic, way to go👍
With all the sanding of engine heads, I thought I was watching project farm there for a second.
I know this is a shade tree rebuild but i’ve always been taught to rebuild my engines dry. The bearings will never seat and it will leak oil like a serve if you rebuild with everything lubricated. There will be a fine layer that will keep the bearings from seating.. You’ll have problems with your connecting rods and main bearings. It will leak oil from the front and rear seals. Just adding a few pointers that most people don’t know. I’m sure it will run for a little bit but eventually it will need replaced again. It will get you bye-bye only for temporarily. When you rebuild a engine it should be dry no lubrication. When you have it all together and you put the oil pan on you should be able to take a socket and put it on the crankshaft and put a prybar on it at 0°. You should be able to rotate the engine to the right until is at 90° and it will lock up solid. That is when you add your oil. After adding your oil you spend the motor back to 0° and put your distributor in plugs etc. your engine will be ready to start after that. If your engine does not lock up at 90° your bearings are loose, too loose to score the bearings to seat them correctly. The way you can tell your engine is going to score the bearings correctly is if it locks up at 90°.. If the engine doesn’t turn all the way to 90° you got your bearings too tight. This means you will have to take everything apart just like you would if it travels past 90°. The only thing different on a diesel is negative the ignition parts. Just adding a few lines so people know the difference when rebuilding a fresh engine not a shade tree engine. Mechanics will have to know this if they take their ASE certification Tess. Are used to work for a guy helping him rebuild engines all the time. His favorites were Chevy 350s. Everyone of them had front seal leakage because he greased the front main, I never figured it out until I went to school.
If it's anything like the rolls of thin cork sheet I buy for crafting, then a little bit of steam to soften the fibres before pinning it flat and letting it dry should work.
Please note, I am no mechanic and wouldn't know one end of an engine from the other ;)
If you have been watching Matt, you probably do know one end from the other by now!
Use a steam iron on the pan gasket. I have also used dental floss threaded through the pan bolt holes and the block holes. You don't need to tighten the floss, a tiny knot will do the trick. Floss is fairly strong. One other piece of info. I was taught that the push rods and the lifters needed to be paired as they were removed nd that it is best to pump up the lifters in a pan of oil. I use ATF which is a finer oil than engine oil as I'm sure you know. The pumped up lifters will go to work immediately. Better than waiting for the oil pressure to fill them. Nice video.
Try a steam iron while its taped down to straighten the gasket.
I was just going to say that
Gary, great suggestion. I've used this trick for many years as well.
Same
a little tip for piston installs. get a couple hunks of rubber tubing to stick on the bearing studs about 3-6 inches long. acts as a guide to center the bearing on the crank and protects the crank, and the studs, from damage.
It RUNS! This is great I was a little worried when you did not lap the valves but hey it is a shade tree repair.👍👍👍
he lapped em with the wire wheel
What can I say? you did a good job, I mean reusing almost every part possible to use and avoid overspending with excellent result.
I’ve had Slow cooked curried goat a few times that was really good
Truck mounted cranes are great for working on water wells, mechanic jobs, welding projects and loading heavy objects. Good job.
There's a restaurant near me that a husband/wife from India own. I go there frequently just for the goat curry!
I can’t believe it ran! Now for the hydraulics. You are going to have some fun here! I would definitely make sure that tank is filled with hydraulic oil you should be able to see it in the site glass. If you don’t see any, find a way to check it with dip stick but you should be able to see it at the site class.
Weird how that engine can look super heavy duty, and flimsy cheap at the same time. Old beer cans are thicker than that oil pan, and covers. Yet some of the brackets could be used to mount an overhead crane.
call me silly, but I think I would prefer a stamped steel oil pan that will flex if it takes a hit over a cast aluminum one.
Yeah it might be better for a small hit to just deform the plate rather than cause a crack or hole to form, so some small bump doesn't cause you to lose your oil
@@lolatmyage A flimsy ass cover will hardly hold oil in brand new, it can not create an even clamping force on the seal.
@@the_hate_inside1085 But that's what nice thick gaskets are for
I love the 460 /429 motor, I have rebuilt plenty of them. as long as you keep oil and water in that motor it will outlive you
Curried goat or goat curry (depending on the roots of the dish) is blimming lovely. Only had it a few times but will always pick it if its on the menu.
One of my favorites from our local Indian place.
@@TechGorilla1987 which way round do they say it?
@@luther99flame Not sure what you mean, but I usually get either Goat Korma or Goat Vindaloo. Depends on my mood.
masalabistro.net/menus.html
@@TechGorilla1987 ah I see. Well if you come across a place that sell curried goat don't ever call it goat curry - they will surely correct you (the same in reverse). Either way goat dishes are great.
@@TechGorilla1987 I ate it last here... mullinsbrasserie.co.uk/menu/ (in their regular menu), and they call it curried goat. A little too hot for me but I powered through it.
Absolutely amazing that the splines on the clutch lined up and slipped onto the transmission shaft. You are truly skilled. I have done shade tree work in the past but NEVER alone, and had the success that you have had. Congratulations on a job very well done!!!
I've cranked out many an engine job in the field, always fun when they go, i also have one of those oil cans, i as with my dad when he bought it at Sears many many moons ago.
Done like it was in the old days. And it works. Love the channel.
People are always entitled to their opinions, yours is the only one that matters in this case. You've done a great job just getting this wannabe wreck running. It's not going to be used for anything but running about on your own properties so as a 'ranch' vehicle, it's just fine. Good job, and can't wait to see the old girl back working.
In 1959, then I was 14 and my Dad was teaching me to rebuild a 1956 Plymouth V8, he taught me a trick about cork gaskets. He used bakers string ( used to tie up packages in the bakery) it was light, and strong. And tied the gasket to the pan, or valve cover, or whatever.
NAPA aircraft crankcase sealant, better than silicone. Also NAPA engine assembly grease.
tie your gaskets to the oil pan with thread. I have used that trick a lot in the past years, and it works great.
"If only I had a crane" wait,... I do! Let's get the skid steer
Noise is the fan belt, put some washing up liquid on it, not concentrate but liquidated. Hope that works in the future for you 👏
protip, cut the bottom off a plastic drum to toss over top the air cleaner
then it don't get water in it again
I’m gonna install a mud flap I think lol
At nine minutes 30 seconds, installing the pistons, use a short piece of rubber tubing over each rod bolt when inserting the piston. This does a fine job of preventing any scarring of the crank journals.
38:08 looks as if you may have missed a bolt on that pulley! Kinda wondering if you did that just too see if we were paying attention. 😂
Snapped the poor bugger off in my excitement to start it...
@@DieselCreek lol, ain’t nothin’ wrong with that man, I do it quite a bit with my trigger finger 😂
I have tied tied the one piece gasket to the pan with fishing line, threading about every other bolt hole to the gasket bolt hole, I’ve also made studs with straight screwdriver slots in the end for easy removal after pan is on and holds gasket in place!
You're a credit to shade tree mechanics everywhere! Darn fine job.
I've rebuilt 3 engines in my life and the most satisfying part for me is when the piston slides into the cylinder.
I enjoyed this long video. Just learning how these cylinders are put back together. I am not an engine kinda guy, but I love to learn stuff like this, in case I ever need it. Keep the content coming.
I also love the reference to Vice Grip Garage. I hear many of you car enthusiasts refer to him. I have been following his channel through Covid as well. Thank you all for the entertainment.
You amaze me! You have no fear in attacking any project large or small! Always a pleasure to watch. Thanks..
As the skunk said, "Now it all comes back to me, the wind has changed!"
that is the guy who farted. now that the wind has changed directions, it all comes back to me.
Good work, reminds me of my younger days too. The gray noodle will conquer all if you let it.
Whole time I was watching this I was waiting for "I'll be dipped!" when she ran...
I need to get some of my own lines lol it’s so tempting to steal his too because I honestly have the same humor and the whole “that’s fine” thing, I was doing that long before I found his channel lol
If I had a nickel for everytime I said " Well I'll be Dipped ", I would be a Very, Very Rich Man. I'm 64 at present time and I have been saying that phrase for close to or over 50 years. So I will say it again. Well I'll be Dipped. Matt, I hate Cliff Hangers.
Unless Derek has been using it before 2012 I'd say he borrowed it from a movie. I still laugh when I watch VGG. This is my first time watching DC channel.
what happened with the others trucks next to the crane truck
@@dancurrier6421 sold em
Hi Matt, last winter, I used that red gasket to glue and aluminium patch to a 2inch hole in the glass of our wood burner and it worked all winter. I now have a new glass installed. Love your videos in Australia. Cheers mate.
That's a little fun with old papers,
is that there is no email address on them.
Wow, you did an amazing "shade tree engine rebuild" on that motor with excellent results!
I cannot wait to see the next video in which you do trace down the key issue, and clean up the truck!
Please keep up the exceptionally brilliant job at producing amazing RUclips content!
Well done, Matt!
I got a bit scared when you flipped the engine over. I was like oh no it’s going to break again. Good video
I was worried too lol
Except for not using brake clean to start it after dumping fire maker down the hole, and I notice you didn't check the stuff in the tank, I think you deserve a cold snack or two for a job well done !!
@@agentfrankvideos not everything is in camera I actually added 5 gal of fresh stuff it was pretty clean just reddish colored
That was great. That may exceed Roadkill standards. One of the best RUclips videos I've ever seen. Not joking. Great job! I think you're really smart.
Where’s the lubrication on those pistons and cylinder walls? You’re not actually putting them in dry are you? All in all, great job!
I saw him wipe some oil in the cylinders in one clip
He has a small squirt can he was using
I oiled them down right before sliding the pistons in.
@@DieselCreek I missed that, but thought you would do it🤪
Maybe he likes it dry...... who are we to judge.
good tip I learned from watching deboss garage is that a sharpening stone and a spray lubricant works great for cleaning head surfaces
Goat is delicious. We buy it from a local business who raises them.
Do you have a Patreon? I can’t seem to find it.
A fellar loves it when you quote D-man from Vice Grip Garage. Nicely played Matt!
I love how he talks about his neighbors goats roaming on his land, then proceeds to ask if anyone eats goat🤣
Goat is a good meat. I like it almost as much as Lamb & Bear.
@@aaronsgunsmithing it's more down to preference, I prefer beef over lamb and goat.
Goats eat weeds
Does goat taste like lamb or sheep? I guess they should bit I’ve never tryed goat
@@eyeballdude I'd say it tastes more like sheep, but it's not for everyone. You either like it or you don't.
37:50 Hey I know that shirt! My dad was a rep, and I worked union right out of high school! Great cameo of some memories! 🙂
haven't had any goat, but lots of sheeps, goats hard to find around here
Currently rebuilding a 460 myself, and being quite the perfectionist I'm constantly worried if I should clean a gasket surface just a little more, or replace a part because it has a tiny bit of rust on it somewhere, it is quite refreshing to see a build like this. It reminds me that I don't need to be so paranoid about everything.
This would be a good time to change the rear main seal
Yes the perfect time
Valve stem seals too.
@@Dustball460 lmao and the bearings but... man I'd keep this motor around for a Car later on after he's done with that crane truck [maybe put another motor in the truck and keep this for a Galaxy, Fairlane or Mustang].
That's some old school mechanic work right there 💪
Not as Important but also would’ve been a nice time to pop the grill out of the front and do a quick white rattle can paint job, raise the value about $1000……
...."I don't see what could go wrong". Smooth.... Nicely executed brother.