How to sharpen a drill in 3 minutes!!!!
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- In this video you will learn how to quickly and efficiently sharpen old drills, for this you only need a tool sharpening machine and a little patience! If you are going to sharpen a drill for the first time, then it is better to practice with old unnecessary drills and after that start sharpening the desired drill!
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dpPmYYexQJ8/mqdefault.jpg)
I've never had anyone show me, I just used a drill doctor as I was too busy to stop & figure it out. Thank you, as the visuals are superb. I understand more now than I did. I tend to make things harder than they need to be.
Appreciate your video.
I’m a retired tool room machinist of some 35 yrs and say well instructed…good job.
Uy muy práctica está técnica, con el esmeril no la sabía 😃👷👷👷👍👍👍👍muchas gracias por compartirlo ahora no desare de mis brocas sin filo🙆🤷
Good description BUT drilling a small pilot hole would make cutting with the larger drill bit less brutal....
Also not using the hammer drill setting...
Demonstration purposes only😊
But what if the smaller bit needs sharpened too 😂
Real men don't use pilot holes. They don't even use drills. They just punch the holes with their fingertips 🤣
@@hog7203 😂😂😂💖
Well done! Exactly how I do it. Although, as I'm left handed I naturally kind of lift the front of the drill bit with the finger it rests on, rather than pushing down with the blunt end more, as you did it (are you right handed?). Good that you "took out the centre" on the backs of the cutting surfaces. Thought I was the only one who did that. Nobody else I know even knows about it! People are astonished when you show them this. How well a drill bit will cut through material again once sharpened. And just how quick and easy it is. It's a shame hand tool skills seem to be dying off. Being able to manipulate cutters by grinding them is a wonderful skill to know and can allow you to do all sorts of things that most others can't achieve. Like grinding cheap spade bits on the edges to achieve custom sized holes. I don't know what I'd do without that skill.
I am sorry to contradict what is shown in the video. Normal Twist drills have the cutting angle at 118°. Most drills above 3 mm diameter need to have center punch for starting to drill. Even lower diameter bits can run away if the drill machine is old or one is using a hand drill machine. Precision workers even use a center drill to get proper start for a drill on steel and the included angle of the center drill is not 118° but 60°. And center drill is an essential part in Lathe work.
Thanks.
2x60=120…close enough as he does by hand
@@markthomasson5077 the center drill to make a start is 120°,while regular drill bits for steel is 118.the cone of a punch is 120degrees too .the point is that the drill bit,of 118° can stand in the punched hole with a slight bit of space to take a proper first chip while going down.the center drill is doing the same hole,but wider (which help if you want to make holes bigger than 8mm,since you'll start by making the punch hole with the center drill,then go from 8,and go bigger and bigger until reaching the desired diameter.it's higly recommended to not make a difference in drill bigger than 8mm at a time with standard drills in common steel (as if you try,the drills will take much more heat if you drill from a higher difference,meaning you'd have to cool it down much more,and go much slower to avoid burning your drill end.) doing it by hand,you can totally get a proper 118° with a bit of training,or an actual piece of metal attached to your stand and set to the proper angle.also,sharpening drills straight like this is fine,but far from best.if you want to have a proper chip(meaning ideal conditions) you'd have to turn the drill a bit while sharening.you start from the edge and turn quite fast to make the proper curve,that will help a lot to avoid your chip from clogging up in the helix ,which will help a lot if you're making deep holes.with a bit of dexterity,you can also manage to make a chip breaker at the end of the curve by giving a slight more force on the millstone.you can totally do each part separately,but you'll get the best result by doing all three in one go after a bit of practice.
@@corentinjourdan5739 . Thanks, very interesting points there. I always start with a centre punch then small bits in any case.
You better check that math, a 60 degree drill would look more like an end mill. 118 degrees was chosen 100 years ago because it's easier and cheaper to make with chisel points. Now 135 degree split point drills are starting to be popular with modern manufacturing and power tools. But either way 120 degrees works just fine if you know what you're doing.
great video. several things I would add. You can buy a drill gauge at an industrial supply store. And using a sharp centre punch to put a dimple in the steel is also a good way to get the bit started accurately.
Very nice and meaningful, thank you.
I was always amazed at how many carpenters I worked with didn’t sharpen their bits but tossed them. Sometimes I would offer to take them home and sharpen them for half the bits .
As a carpenter myself, I would take the bits I had home and sharpen them. I always have bits and usually never ask for some. That’s if I didn’t lose them
@@mannyp4749 I never said no to free anything .
Excellent tutorial. Sharpening drill bits correctly is a skill I have always struggled with.
Yeah I tried 20 times but can't do it 🥲
Sharpening things is an art Imo. Had a friend that could sharpen drill bits with a belt sander if that was all that was available. He worked in the tool room at our assembly plant. Could get a pocket knife razor sharp in less than a minute.
Having someone show you is the best way. But sometimes a description of the move can help. As you push the drill into the grinding wheel, increase pressure to remove material for clearance on the back of the cutting edge.
*** dress the grinding wheel true before you even begin to sharpen a drill.
@@MrJdebest Yeah dressing is key , I used silicone carbide and a diamond dressing tool
Same here . At first it was hit or miss but because I generally didn’t work with hard metals I got by .
been sharpening drills for 40 years . I have done it so many times its a natural angle and grind.
I’m deeply impressed at your craftsmanship
…and of course when you drill metal, use a set or pilot hole first, use oil to keep the bit cool, and DRILL SLOWLY. That will help keep your bits sharp. Was shown that by a retired machinist. Since then I haven’t had to sharpen any bits. No kidding.
Very true.
Very good idea. I shall try it. Thank you.
nice, I use a small belt sander and hold them at a angle. I was experimenting around with different angles and can make a crappy harbor freight bit cut hardened metal. I work in a body shop and of course have to buy my own bits. So sharpening them is a big win. I made a harbor freight bit cut better then a new dewalt bit.
there are too many ways to do it. This is the best i've seen. Thank you for sharing it with everyone
🙏
Very clever Mr Nik, the 2 nuts technique, and the marked guide lines on the grinder bed bar.
That drill has a 118 degree drill point. Notice that the centre 2mm or so does not have a cutting edge; it will need to pressed into the material with considerable force in order to allow the cutting edge to bite. That type of drill is intended for use in a drill press (note the importance of the word "press" in that type of drill.) If used with a handheld drill a small diameter pilot hole needs to be drilled first, or alternatively a different "split point" drill type will need to be used. Ironically almost all DIY hobby drill sets are sold with these type of drills intended for use in a drill press. Millions of frustrated DIYers are getting nowhere even on mild steel when using these drills in a hand-held power drill, oblivious to the need for drilling a small pilot hole first.
Thanks for saying this.
A pilot hole drilled with a smaller bit is helpful. Center punching the intended hole is nearly essential in my view. Like what you did with the cutting edges. Center point is moot with my method.
Twist drills come in many different drill point angles. You need to make sure you are using the correct angle for the dril being sharpened. While many general purpose "backyard mechanic" drills are 118 degrees;
90 degrees is used for hard plastics subject to wear, 130 degrees for soft and tough materials and 140 degrees for long-chipping light metals. STARRETT even makes a Drill Point Gauge to properly determine the existing angle. I guess tool-room procedures are beyond the scope of this DIY video.
Let alone the fact that he never checked land length to make sure the apex of the drill was centered. This is why your holes all end up oversized and a corner of your drill burns up before the other since it’s doing all the work.
Why don't you make a tutorial
Great info, thanks!
Un espectáculo muy buena clase 👏🏻 , pero un detalle cuando agujereó faltó lubricar la mecha para que no pierda el filo 😉
Pensé parecido: "ahora a afilar de nuevo"
Very good
The top rake for aluminum should be different. It should be for copper and brass, too. And for brass or cast iron, it should have an entirely different front rake.
This is entirely for drilling steel.
wtaf, speed of drill is all that is important for different metals.
@@throwachair Sorry sunshine, you need a different angle for aly as you want that to chip differently to steel. Speeds for each material may be correct but with the wrong angle you will just get screaming from brass and the bit heats up quick. Speed alone does not cut, in fact I was always taught to drill slower if anything to stop catching. Im a retired machine engineer......
@@Jewellerybybarrie As a commercial carpenter installing doors and hardware I never had to get that technical . The metal I drilled and tapped was approximately 3/16 of an inch or thinner. I still have a drill doctor. I couldn’t justify buying a really good sharpener. I couldn’t justify a used Darex ? one .
breaking through the back side can chip the drill. try to keep it spinning and not hit what is behind it when you break through. also split point isn't necessary it just keeps it from walking when starting a hole. if you center punch or have a pilot hole you don't need split point. great video. thanks for posting!
I had to do this every day for years as a tool and die maker.
Glad to see that, unlike whoever typed the title, some people know that the drill is the machine that is used to turn the drill bit!
If you don't have a center punch a piece of masking tape on the piece will help prevent slip.
Thank you so much. This is awesome.
And he did it with a corded drill as well…
That’s some old timer’s work right there!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Cheers
Split points are 135 degrees. I always verify that the chisel point is on center before trying to thin the web. I wouldn't try putting in a split point. Using a punch mark also helps keep it from walking. I've been a machinist for 40 years and there have been times I've used a belt sander to grind a 2" drill.
Something tells me this process only works with large bits unless you're a pro
That definitely is for large drills. I never call them bits. I had to do that only in job shops, They rarely have the proper grinders. I also worked for northorp grumman where they had a tool service dept. With lippers, surface grinders, the whole works. Sharpen endmills, stepdrills, the whole deal. Come out almost like brand new.
これ昔、先輩に教わって練習したなぁ。切れる刃先の理屈がわかってないと、いくら練習しても上達しないですよね。
慣れればガイド無しで砥げるようになります。
細いキリなら、ペーパーグラインダーの方が砥ぎやすいですね。
そう。刃をつけるのに大事なのは
外側よりも中心部
The greater the technological progress, the worse the do-it-yourself conditions. If I go to a store to buy a drill, they give me a Chinese one, with which you can drill a hole (or none at all) in a smooth plate. If I buy a German Bosch drill, I can drill 3 holes with it, if I buy a Russian drill, I can drill 20 holes with it.
This is. I don't dare to sharpen it with a grinder, because afterwards the hole will be triangular, if it is drilled at all. I sharpen the drill by dipping a scythe stone in water and using it to sharpen the blunt drill at the angle corresponding to the factory sharpening, so sometimes I succeed.
That was very cool. I'll actually try this...tHank you very much!
いつもの、なんだ簡単そう→やっぱ上手くできねぇってなる。上にあげる時とか
しかもシンニングするには砥石エッジ立ってないと無理じゃよぉ
グラインダーは持ってる前提なのかよ…
グラインダー持ってない俺は…ドリル研磨機買うわ。
とても参考になりました。
実演していただきありがとうございます。
これ、試してみます。
Great tip
How sharp a drill,not to taladro ,I think is the best title
1:30 Time. Correct, Mr Nik. The trailing edge, should be ground MORE than the leading edge ; reduces friction, and gives the ' cuttings' a place to go / whilst moving up the spiral as it cuts...
なるほど❗️目安で磨いで チゼルポイントも慣れ状態でつけてました🙋
Power bit sharpener- sharpens in under 1 minute!!!!! And always reliable and accurate!!!!
Good video and music!
Großer Bohrer kleine Drehzahl, kleiner Bohrer große Drehzahl, als Leitsatz für s Leben. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Rene.
So I just need to buy the professional sharpening machine first 😄
Yes, it's called a bench grinder.
If a bench grinder is "too professional" for you, you probably should not be operating a drill to begin with.
Yeah I just buy new bits
You don’t need a bench grinder for this. Use a regular angle grinder with a rock disc (I’m spacing on what to call it). Just grind a friken angle on it, dip it on some water mixed with a little oil to quench it between grinds. Boom, 30 seconds, works like a charm.
The grinding wheel is so smooth
nice with the music
Sounded like you had the hammer setting on the drill but I think that’s just because it’s a mains drill and not a battery powered drill. They sound different. I still love my mains drill too.
I normally sharpen mine a little bit on the more acute side as well (maybe 50 deg?). As I work mainly in wood. It penetrates the wood a little quicker and easier (IMHO). Don't forget, HSS drill bits aren't just for engineering!
Better buy Drill Doctor bit sharpener, no regrets at all
Good idea, I will try it
Thks,
?What do you think of heat-treating the drill tip (heat it up & quench it in water)?
Pretty Smart Fellar,,,,🤯🧠👁️👁️👍💪🤠,, THANKS,,,
Drill doctor also works great and once you learn how to use it properly you can split the tip anyway you want.
次は3.4φのキリでも簡単にできる方法を開発してほしいｗ
細かくてみえないわりに使用頻度高いすぎるｗ
老眼鏡が一番です笑
仕事柄1㎜以下のドリルを良く研ぎますが実体顕微鏡の下にグラインダー置いて覗いて研いでます
素人でも簡単に研ぐ方法なら、ぐりんと動かすのは難しいから、2番が当たらない角度で単純に砥石に押し当てて研ぐと簡単です
it brings a whole new meaning to pet rock
I knew about this trick 25 years ago for getting the angles
Use a center punch and the bit wont walk away.
Einhell Werkzeug 😅😅😅😅😅 !!!!!! Einen Titannitritbohrer brauchst du nicht mehr nachschleifen, den kannst du wegwerfen 😅😅😅😅!!!!!
Top!
👍
Muy claro. Muy eficiente.
You got a nice even coiled chip off both flutes plenty good enough for a hand drill.
まあ、ドリルの先端角は118°だけどね。チゼルエッジも砥石もう少し角があった方がシンニングしやすい。
My mans here even trying to cut a halfway decent flute hook on a boring old conventional drill bit with almost zero tip geometry to start with.
My dude, you're doing a good job, but these kinds of bits are cut and thinned on 5 axis cnc grinding machines, so remember to not try too hard.
とても参考になりました 新しいものを買います！
諦めたら、そこで(ry
Awesome! Thank you
I always sharpen the drill bits, I have never needed to sharpen my drill.
The drill bit which can be easily sharpened will become dull too easily too. Better buy one with proper hardness and use a center punch before metal drilling.
私はドリル砥ぐのに1分位かな👍
毎日砥ぐので(NC旋盤を使ってます
上手ですね！
Web thinning is not necessary on a drill unless it's been previously been sharpened down to the point where the web is getting thick, such as 1/2 to 1/3rd of it's original length.
EXCELLENT.
Very good!
китайская дрель-перфоратор. этот звук ни с чем не спутаешь))))
Как говорится,хоть придерживай само сверлит 😂
Mr Nik εισαι πολυ ωραιος,,,,
That was great for sharpening drill bits, but what about my drill?
Un Taladro o una Broca ?
Super ❤turkiye thankyou
56 or 57 degrees may not seem like much of a change but it's the actual pitch needed to cut properly.
Fast gut erklärt. 60 Grad ist wohl einfacher um die Schleiflehre zu bauen, soll 59 Grad sein für den Spitzenwinkel 118 Grad. Er hat den Freiwinkel geschliffen, aber nicht erklärt. An seiner selbstbebastelten 120 Grad Lehre und an der Spähne kann man sehen, dass er es selbst nicht gut kann. Aber
Ottimo metodo per affilare una punta .
very good condition
Видео для дилетантов...
Never use a grey wheel for HSS. Use a well dressed white or pink wheel.
...and NEVER quench HSS in water.
Adding a dash of cutting fluid also wouldn't go amiss.
Super. Zabrakło punktaka. Ale sposób ok.
He sharpened it then used the new bit anyway!😂😂😂
Thanks man.
Es afilar un taladro o una broca no entiendo
Just use a center punch before trying to drill the hole.
Nice video. But most of the the twist drill bits being sold will not take a sharpening.
仕事に使うもので 分かりやすい動画です ありがとうございますm(_ _)m たったの３分って ありがたいですね
I came for the thumbnail!!!
What if I don't have a nice grinder? Still 3 minute sharpen?
I never thought any of my apprentices to sharpen a drill like that. Use a center drill dummy.
What’s wrong with using a centre punch, then a pilot hole before the larger bit???
shhhh. don't ruin the video with facts
especially with hand sharpened bits a pilot hole,is mandatory. Why? If there is the tiniest inaccuracy in both lengths of the cutting edges, the hole will always be 2x the longer cutting edge. This will not happen with a center hole.
ありがとうございます。神動画。
Normal 118°