Performance or Reliability on Adventure Motorcycle?
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- Опубликовано: 17 дек 2023
- Open exhaust, power commander, remapping, race filters, all of these things promise to raise the power and improve the performance of any motorcycle but what about reliability, will it be compromised? This is a good question, isn't it? In this video, I will share my opinion on this topic.
In my previous video, "5 Rules to Extend the Life of Any Motorcycle", I actually forgot to talk about it, but this only gave me the chance to explain it even better now.
Before I even start let's make it clear that I am going to talk about a travel or adventure motorcycle. The one that you are going to use on your trips, not a model that you have for weekend fun around your home.
Let's first see how much exactly we can improve the performance of the motorcycle if we add all possible options. An example will be my Tenere 700, but it would be more or less the same for any brand and model.
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![Yamaha Tenere 700 - Long Term [66,000km] Owners Review](/img/1.gif)
I have a 2006 650 V-Strom. 100% stock engine. Runs flawlessly. No complaints at all. I also like the relatively quiet exhaust note. I don’t want to offend anyone. I like just sliding through towns without being noticed. Ditto for lane splitting. As the Pavil has stated in other videos, car drivers are less likely to get annoyed with lane splitting if your bike is quiet. Suspension, too. I pay close attention to sag and make sure all bearing surfaces are operating smoothly to minimize Stiction. You’d be amazed at the gains that can be had by just doing this. The only thing I play with a little is fork fluid weight. But rarely by more than +/- 2.5 wt. unless there’s a well documented shortcoming in a design and a completely agreed upon modification, I say leave it stock.
Thanks for sharing!
I would go for reliability every time 😂
Good!
@@motorcycleadventuresYep. Need more power ? Buy a more powerful bike , if you even already know how to manage 100 ℅ of a 30 HP bike.....😂
@@babar69110 one important fact is Adventure motorcycles come with small airbox and mild cams, for low end, mid range performance so, most of the bolt on things do nothing because you have hardware restrictions that if you overcome, forget about low end and mid range...
@@marcospeguero5354 basic law of thermic engines ;)
Me too
It is clearly better to spend time and money on travel and gas than to "upgrade" a motorcycle that is perfectly fine.
Agree!
Exactly !
Well I've got an Xt600e. With WP suspension and dyno tunes carbs stainless headers/exhaust and foam twinair filter. 100% worth it for my dream bike though
Good advice.
Standard also equal easy spare paets and service items. Available anywhere.
This is the priority.
Safe, and happy travels 👍
Absolutely! Thanks for adding, Richard!
Could not agree more with your comments. I always say, the people who build/design the motorcycle know more than me. So I just leave it as it left the factory.
Good, thanks for taking the time!
So true, on my 660 Tenere changing the exhaust airfilter buster plug doesn’t make it a better bike after the airflow change it’s getting better and better but I wish I never have change all of it because it wash a good bike from the fabric. The reason for me in the first place whas the weight I safe about 6 kilos but in the end it take me months to finetune it again. Now it runs perfect but I will never ever do this again. Nice and good information video 👌🏽💯
Thanks for sharing!
I completely agree with you.. l am 66 years old, l have my eleventh motorcycle, and l never changed a think on them because i don't want to have problems in my travels.. have a good day.
Thanks for sharing!
I like tried & tested reliable engines noted for being bulletproof , & the just standard controls , no blipper ,flipper ,slipper & fly by wire throttles ,the less tech the better & easier to get fixed or bodged in the middle of nowhere . Performance is only important on a race track ,on public roads ,it’s more important to have reasonable handling , economy , reliability ,comfort ,ease of maintenance , also adequate performance & carrying ability for the application required . 👍
Exactly!
after putting a lot of money in my old 2019 v strom 650, suspension, exhaust, even a cruise control system, I realized that the best solution would have been to get a more expensive bike that has all these already. But for some people, customizing the bike is part of the fun :) I do agree though that people don't know what they don't know and most of the times they'll be like neaaah, it will be fine.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
The problem is that if you'd go for the more expensive bike you's still think of making it better and add mods to it! It's a disease! :D:D:D
@@johnnyblue4799 yeah but to a lesser extent. I switched to a 2023 1050 and the things I put on it were minimal, heated grips, a lithium battery to save some weight and a wind spoiler on the windshield mainly for looks :D, plus I retrieved a bunch of stuff from my older 650 before selling it. But you are right, I find myself every now and then looking at what else I could get for it, but thankfully, I am pretty happy with how it is right now. At least for the time being :)))
@@ioandragulescu6063 That last sentence sums it up! :D Great bike! Enjoy!
I think especially on the cheaper bikes (like drz650 and my xt600) suspension upgraden are some best bang for the buck you could ever do. Comfort. Way better handig and thus safer. And doesn't make it any less reliable
Truth Hurts.
Common sense as allways.
Thank You & Merry Xmas.
Our favoritte drink is Aquavit 🥃
Best Regards from
Norway 🇳🇴
Thanks, man! Merry Christmas!
A few notes in no particular order:
- A less restrictive air filter will improve horsepower but mostly at high rpm. That's where the paper filters become a bit restrictive. As you said, this will affect reliability a bit, because their filtering abilities might be a bit lower than those of the paper filters. Also, the oil used to oil the K&N might fling onto the air measuring sensor (MAF or whatever it's used) and cause it to give false readings. So you can't oil it excessively to improve filtering because you cause other issues.
- Exhausts are not only changed for horsepower, but for massive weight reduction, sound and, why not, aspect (or to address design flaws in your case). It also needs to be said that not all aftermarket pipes target high rpm power gains. Some will give you better low/mid-range.
- The purpose of a Power Commander is not only performance. If properly tuned on a dyno, it improves rideability. It totally healed the on/off throttle issues with my bike and the stuttering around 3000 rpm. Also a bit more fuel improves engine response and makes it run a bit cooler. Manufacturers need to obey the idiotic emission laws. The result of that is bikes that are not performing at their full potential and in many there are noticeable fueling issues, which completely disappear with re-mapping.
- For older bikes, that have no O2 sensors, the PC autotune makes it possible to change your fuel map in 5 min, with only a laptop, if you opt for this feature. It does work (of course you need to install an O2 sensor for it to work). You can also have the ability to shift between two maps with the touch of a button.
- It is not true that you need to replace everything for better air flow. If you replace only the most restrictive element you can get benefits, but indeed, with more air, you must add more fuel. Depending on how much the flow is improved, the fuel trim capabilities of the system might be overpowered. A lean mixture can make the engine run too hot, with negative repercussions on reliability.
I'd say that only mods done improperly will affect reliability.
Thanks for your comment!
@@motorcycleadventures Merry Christmas and keep up the great work!
I bought my first bike a year ago. In my price range there was a choice between XT660Z Tenere, 700 Transalp and a KTM 950.
I went with the Tenere and it has been awesome. Awesome allroad tourer!
Good choice!
always great advices from you, ciao!
Glad to help!
Excellent advice 😊
Thanks, man!
Palvin always keep the motorcycle stock standard the only thing that really needs to be looked at is suspension if required or else leave the motorcycle alone.
Agree!
Such good practical advice,I shy away from most new bikes that have not been tried and tested which really only leaves the Tenere 700 which is impossible to own.🙈
Glad to help!
I get your point with reliability( its an unknown that's extremely hard to test) but these mods can also be done to get the bike you bought working properly. My KTM 690 SMCR 2022 is an amazing bike strangled by EURO5 regulations...causing it to be so lean its power delivery is choppy,1st gear rolling off requires "slipping" the clutch and over revving for a smooth launch at traffic lights and other numerous issues. remapped the ecu, DNA airfilter and akra pipe made the bike(even with the cat in and DB killers installed) the bike feels like a symphony of engineering instead of a bunch of teenagers in a garage practicing . Now regarding reliability....ill see what happens, theoretically this engine is the same as the euro 3/4 model and that one was reliable with same "ecu map"
I know at least one country with TÜV in which ECU remapping violates vehicle type approval thus making the bike not street legal anymore.
I had a XT660 like Pavlo had. Those bikes ran terribly with stock fuelling. (When lawyers tell engineers how to build a bike)
So I did the whole rigmarole to change pipes filters & PC5.
It worked like a charm, but it was expensive and took time.
The T7 runs perfectly out of the box.
I would even avoid electrical accessories as far as possible.
Thanks to all of you for sharing your opinion!
@@2lbsTrigrPull True but empty cans,decatted pipes, performance air filters aren't "street legal" either they are race legal :P that's why most companies hide behind the "track use only" phrase. Lets not get into upgrading your breaks or lights etc.
@@2lbsTrigrPull Yeah... nobody needs to know what map is in my bike. The problem is not the bike. The problem is the government over-regulating everything.
I 100% agree! The simplicity of the T7 and reputation of Yamaha was the main reason I bought the T7 in the first place.
Good!
You have absolutely right
Good!
Excellent!!
Thanks for watching, man!
100% agree with your advises, totally true.. 👌 maintain reliability with the originally factory designed
Thanks, man!
Your videos are always getting better with the passing years. Well done :)
What is the air filter that you use? I can't seem to get it from the video.
Thanks bro
Thanks, man! The filter is K&N
Thank you and Merry Christmas
Definitely I agree...only people who don't do long trips, don't understand.
Good, thanks!
Hi Pavlin, Affy Nox here… I am in my 60’s riding solo and more so after watching all your videos.
I agree on the reliability part, especially for solo rider. Recently I changed to a used BMW G310GS because it is the lightest bike with adv capability and dirt cheap on the 2nd hand market.
I keep it stock with only change to the front sprocket to suit my weight and riding style.
Thanks for sharing!
Hows the G310GS been? Is it a reliable bike? I have a lot of interest in this bike. I might purchase one next month.
@@Tennessee968 So far I only had use it for about 2+ months 5000km on 2 trip around Thailand, it is not a fast bike. For solo ride is ok. No problem so far and it is a very light weight bike at about 165kg.
There are vibrations as any small displacement single, but not that bad. Occasionally I ride without glove just to test the vibration, it doesn’t cause any problem to my hand.
Build quality is typical BMW, the fairings snd panels are build to last. I do my own maintenance so each year normal maintenance Oil, Air Filter and Oil Filter cost me about USD35 to 40, add another 15 if I replace the spark plugs. Tyres are standard price for all bikes the chain & sprocket depends on what type for me about USD 100 for the set. I am in Malaysia so price may be different elsewhere.
For BMW it’s worthwhile to invest on apps Motoscan & a good OBD adaptor for self maintenance and diagnostics.
@@AffyNoX Thanks so much for such a detailed response! Very helpful information. I'm not too concerned about vibrations as I grew up riding dirt bikes and I still have my Kawasaki dual sport I've had since I was 12 years old. I'm in my 40's now and just wanted something under 500cc with more road capability but can still hit bumpy dirt roads. I will be alone 90 percent of the time and don't want to get stranded in the mountains. I also like the weight and fuel economy of the g310. Very helpful info you've given me. Stay safe out there and hope you enjoy the bike!
@@Tennessee968 RE Himalayan 450? Kove ADV or Rally 450, or 800? Many choices at least as good as BMW 310.
Hi Pavlin, top episode 👍on my 2010 1200 GS ac I’ve replaced spring/shock by Wilbers (WESA instead of ESA) which was a huge improvement. I replaced the muffler ‘cause the original was way too loud! The Acrapovic muffler sounds deeper and doesn’t have that annoying middle frequencies. I use K&N as well because it’s easy to clean in case of…
And a bigger windshield by GIVI.
I bought & sold Power Commander. Just more fuel consumption and noise. Better performance wasn’t noticeable.
Equipped in this way I managed to ride more than 110k km (Morocco included in 2023) and had just to replace an ABS-sensor and a break disk. That’s it. And I’ve done all the regular inspections! To me it’s essential iot boost the reliability.
Wanted to buy a mid weight adv this year. After intensively test riding T660, KTM 890, Husky 901 Exp and T700 I’ve decided to keep my “Rosinante” for further 100.000 km. T700 can’t beat the agility of my GS and feels heavier; T660 (my favourite out of them) lack of dealer network, Husky and KTM were overheating. I’m not an off-road junkie therefore no need for a better performance on this terrain. In the Atlas Mountains I left a few T700 behind me on gravel roads there … 😉
Cheers, Peter 🇦🇹
Thanks for sharing!
I had a CBR600RR from 2007. The hp number on paper is taken from the crankshaft, you lose power thru gearbox, final drive and wheel. I put an air filter, full exhaust and powercommander on it, i lost around 4hp from this without mapping my powercommander. Then i let it tune on the the dynobank and it went from 107hp on the backweel to 121hp. So it helps alot especially when doing it correctly. If you do that properly your engine wil be better, it will run less hot and extent your engine life. If you do more high performance stuff or don't do these mods correctly you lose reliability. Also it helps to loose weight with the exhaust.
Bravoo Pavlin jast to the point.
Thanks, man!
Thanks for speaking the truth sir 😊
Any time!
Great video - 100% agree with everything you’ve said except for one caveat: nowadays as engines (the pure hardware) is kept for multiple generations of more and more strict emission regulations the typical levers being used are a) updated catalysts or b) an engine mapping that makes the bike run leaner leading to a hotter combustion temperature, leading to reduced emissions, leading to increased thermal stress on the engine. Using e.g. a self learning piggy back solution such as the Rapid Bike Evo, can actually increase reliability by enriching the fuel to air ratio. Sure this will increase fuel consumption a bit and you also have a piece of additional equipment added to the overall system, but I’d argue that this trade off might be worthwhile especially when running in hotter conditions and varying fuel qualities. Just my two cents - keep the content coming! Really enjoy the videos and your way of explaining!!
Thanks for taking the time!
Good advice, I've spent enough on mods chasing horsepower over the years to buy a couple of new bikes. I have a low kilometre Triumph Scrambler now and apart from a few cosmetic things I going to save my money. It has more than enough power for me.
Thanks for sharing!
Stock is good. It's the Reliability, fuel efficiency, and cost of ownership that really counts the most.
Agree!
Totally agree. With less than 1000 miles on the T7 I just got, I had no issue climbing some pretty steep terrain, and I'm averaging over 60+mpg. I think I am going to try to keep the engine as close to stock as I can. Mr. Yamaha did a great job building this bike.
@@gscheben123 I may modify or upgrade the brakes, suspension, lights and anything except the engine, ECU, intake and exhaust to suit my personal riding preferences, but that's on a case to case basis and something to consider. But as for the engine as long as the bike can cruise at 100kph, I'm keeping it stock.
Talking about reliability even a reusable air filter could compromise it in some way. Different mechanics told me that those filters do not protect the engine from some types of particles (especially pollen) as well as the paper filters. Maybe the absolute best thing to do would be to leave it as it came from the factory.
Agree!
Good idea especially for travel bikes
I thought so!
less mods, less problems@@motorcycleadventures
The other morning I brought my bike in for servicing, and I really don’t like messing with the factory system that was provided for me. But there was a guy with my identical bike and they tuned it the way they wanted to, and when it came time for an engine warranty issue, he was declined because the computer could tell that he had messed with it.
This is another point that I did not mentioned.
Good points. reliability is key. I have HP Corse full exhaust on my 2022 Tenere. At the time there were no engine protection plates for the catalytic model. Also I wanted my exhaust short and run up the inside of the frame like yours's as well. I never fool with power commander or cpu upgrades unless it is factory. This has always been of issue and you never know when it will stand you. Only mechanical adjustments if any. I always use K&N on all my machines they are available for. Just make critically certain all areas of the filter is oiled. A dry spot is an open area which dust can enter the engine. I believe that is why they are pre-oiled by the factory these day. In the old we had to oil them and let them saturate for 24 hours. Not now. Another issue is the location of the power up grades. Always check dyno runs of where the new power peaks are. You will find the majority is at the upper level of the RPM range. An area we generally never use. This means if you gain one area normally you loose in another. So actually you may loose midrange power and torque where we use it most. The CP2 engine is a workhorse motor with low horse power and strong torque. It works great and is smooth. Many aren't. So enough of motor talk. You and family have Happy Holidays. Enjoy the time together. As a fellow traveler we are gone too much already. Make it count. Plan the next big one. If you ever come back to USA I live mostly in southeast Kentucky. Great riding area. Mountains and rolling hills. Pretty good roads, hard pack single lane gravels and all on top of the ridges and many great twisty two lanes. Much to enjoy. Elev. from 300 meters to over 3000. So good and cool high up i summer. Then we can head west to the Rockies.Take care.
Thanks for sharing this information!
you have to remeber that factory tune is more on lean side, so makes engine run hotter.
True, because of the catalytic converter.
I removed the cat on my 890 Adventure for this reason, it was great at burning my ankles and the shock, but I figured I was better off without it.
Fair enough!
Excellent point, I’ve been saying this for years. HP and reliability are inversely proportional. Just look at USA top fuel dragsters, they are getting upwards of 11,000 HP from a 500CI engine. The only downside is you need to completely overhaul the engine every 1/4 mile.
It is what it is!
When my air filter was due for replacement, I opted for a drop-in K&N unit... because where I live, the disposable stock filter is almost just as expensive. Probably won't filter out pollen and bacteria but I don't think they even hurt the engine.
Good decision!
I totally agree. It depends completely what you use the bike for. Riding a adv bike you rarley need more power. I did a rally on my KTM 450 this summer and i used maybe 20% of the capacity. The only upgrades ive Done to it is protection, fan and lights. It would be sweet to have a cool sounding acra-pipe but its just that, sweet sounding nothing more😅
Thanks for sharing!
Reason i chose the V-Strom, bombproof design and, actually, very good performance.
Thanks for sharing!
Hi. I love your motorcycle adventure videos but I also love the stove you have in your shop with the double heat exchanger and the glass door. Is there a brand name or website where you purchased it from? Thank you. Nick
prity-bg.com/en/product-category/fireplaces/prity/
I agree up to a point. Bikes decades back had lots more go . Removing the EU emissions bollocks makes the bike more economical and more go . All my bikes in last decade have had Hilltop motorcycles remap . Huge difference more torque more mpg and lots more go. My Tenere was great but lacking in go after being used to riding a tuned KTM 950 sm. So decat headers and cheap small light end can, also remap and snorkel removal with cheap laser printed air box lid a with K' N air filter and the bike can tootle along just like it did but with loads more go . That much more that it needed sprocket changes. One more on the front and lost 2 or 3 on the back. Reason it now does 70 mph at just above 4.5k revs and doesn't try to wheelie as much under hard acceleration but revs up more quickly and doesn't feel strangled. Modern bikes are gutless and reliability is how you don't stress your engine. They cant breath are running too lean and exhausts anything but free. Ran a highly tuned gas flowed head race cut valves dynojetted carbs moded airbox 30 k volt coils digital ingnition, drag racing clutch and literaly straight through pipe on a Yamaha FJ 1200 for 18 years, it never missed a beat or broke down, hows that for reliability on modified bike and regretted selling it for something more modern.
Thanks for sharing!
I fitted a Booster Plug to my 18 V Strom 1000 to eliminate snatching and lean running under 3000 rpm, stock bike was very on / off in built up areas. All it did was richen the mixture slightly (claimed around 6%) and smoothed out slow speed running, this meant you could use one gear higher and still pull cleanly. There was absolutely no power gain, it was simply to smooth it out and it worked well. On my current bike a 22 Triumph 1200 GT Pro things have moved on and the bike provides smooth power throughout the rev range, no need to change anything. You’re spot on about the air filter as well, unless you have good reason to switch it out (ease of use distance touring), I would always leave the stock one in place on a modern fuel injected bike.
Thanks for sharing!
Agree reliability and Skills of the rider is most important. Better to stick with the originality, slight changes is good enough. ❤😊
Right on!
Reliability, reliability and more reliability.
That's why the old Africa twin was so brilliant.
No superfluous stuff.
In truth traction control and abs.
Do they add anything?
Center stand is the only thing that helps.
ABS and traction control saved my ass multiple times....wet leaves on the road,gravel,wet tram rail tracks etc. the initial implementation of these systems was choppy and mby worse...or useless but they evolved a lot across the years. I recommend giving them another try.
To be honest. Having tyres you trust is to me more important.
I've put up a lot of miles this winter past in some pretty grim conditions (1000 Africa twin)
The abs and traction control never came into play.
I'm glad they kicked in for you when needed.
Thanks for sharing!
Old africa is a garbage.true story
Been 15 years tuning motorcycles... in general he is right, many of the modification desicions people make lowers the reliability of the motorcycle. We can debate a lot but 90% of the time (bad choices in parts, tuner) goes like that... seen a lo of motorcycles 1 run worse than stock 2 blow up because bad tune. Even have more hp in dyno, but slower on the street than stock.
Thanks for sharing!
Reliability is no1 especially if you are going to do long trips .🆒😎👍!
Exactly!
Harley Davisson promise maximum 10% overall power increase with stage 1 and they are very very optimistic. 🤣👌
Stage 1 only cost 1600 euro for my Sportster 1200, to gain around a huge 6 hp increase and around 50% more fuel consumption 😂
Race horses tend to eat more...
Fully agree Pavlin, reliability must come first, especially when long tours are planned. I too tho' opted for a K&N filter for the same reason but also because I Didn't want to waste time doing unnecessary strip downs of the bike on tour, ie;
to remove the filter-take off seat, remove side panels, take off tank, take off air intakes on both sides, disconnect choke/ accelerator cables, take off the carburetters (3), then remove the air filter box to unscrew another 14 screws to get the filter out of it. Then everything back in reverse plus resetting the cables on the handlebar. A good hour and a halfs work.
I now, after a 30 minute modification of the airbox, only need TWO MINUTES to take out 4 screws and the K&N filter, 5mins to clean and blow dry and 2minns to refit.(I hope the designer of the airbox was sacked and never found employment again😠)
As far as my exhaust is concerned, the bike was bought with a fitted aftermarket BOSS system, which although 4kg lighter as the originalI I swapped back to the original as, I had to compromise lightness for quietness as I suffer from Tnintus. Some decisions are hard, I was never the loud racey rider anyway.
MERRY CHRISTMAS Pavlin.
Thanks for sharing!
In my case the best way for me to increase power on all my bikes would be to lose some weight. Unfortunately I’m 30lbs overweight! If I go on an exercise regiment there’s a good chance I can loose some body weight. Costs next to nothing, improves my health and the power to weight values will increase. ;)
It will definitely help you one way or another!
I agree with your overall point, if you are talking about the T7 only, agree even more but........ The Euro 75++++ or whatever it is forces lean fueling of ECUs, this fueling/timing maps go against reliability and on many bikes smooth running engines. Forget piggy back solutions, proper fueling re flash is pro reliability.
Next case is my bike, Rally 300. I love the 155 kg curb weight with 430 ish range, the on road comfort, weather protection, the looks........ First issue, on/off snatchy throttle.... E 5 mapping. Honda tuned the engine for low rpm torque, they over did this on a 286 cc single. The engine runs out of air at 8000 rpm. Talking about power looking at peak numbers is also a simplified look btw. With this bike you have to do mods if you want to increase the area under the power curves. The solution is: opened airbox (including very restricted inner/throttle body snorkel, CBR cams (Honda part), exhaust (look up Black Widow, hig quality at very reasonable price) and most important 550 performance products ECU flash (available in many different stages of tune). This absolute TRANSFORM s the bike. Here peak numbers increase in the 30% range but it's the areas under both curves.
Yes the slipper clutch has to be updated (but that's the case with stock engine as well) or all together swapped for good old non slipper clutch from the 250 model.
Internally here it's all Honda parts, you are building "CBR" engine, Honda makes them in the CBR.....
Last point on reliability is all on us, how we ride, our interaction with the bike, application of all control inputs, servicing the bike, quality of oil used............ Some people destroy mechanical things, some can make them last very long time.
Bit long, so your point is valid, but....... Not always in my opinion.😮
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Changing the intake/exhaust can change more than just peak horsepower, a lot of the time these twins will gain more midrange/low-end torque, which is more useful offroad. One of the main parameters bike manufacturers optimize for these day (thanks to Euro-5) is fuel efficiency so your bike may be running lean, which has it's own issues.
But that doesn't change your point, messing with the formula is not a good idea when it comes to reliability. At least your warranty won't be void if you do break down.
Yeah, but is a few horse power gained worth the thousand or more dollars lost?
@@kiwikidusa That is the point of my post, you can make some sizeable gains in the midrange as opposed to just the peak horsepower which everyone seems to concentrate on. It's not worth it for me when it comes to reliability.
Exactly!!! When I'm riding thousands of miles across the continent; reliability is paramount! And who needs over 80 HP off road anyway (apart from Paris-Dakar racers)?@@mattkaymoto
Balance is the key!
Yes, as you rightly pointed out all the large manufacturers of our motorcycles spend a lot of money and time verifying the engines they design and manufacture are reliable. Why would anyone mess with that for a few extra horsepower that you won't really notice.@@motorcycleadventures
Indeed, well said! If you want more power, buy a different bike, duh!
Exactly!
I don’t and won’t change anything unnecessary. Like you say, the manufacturer has designed the bike as is. I even don’t understand riders who buy a bike and then try to upgrade it to something it just isn’t. If performance is so important buy a bigger, stronger, more powerful faster bike in the first place.
Exactly!
A fool and his money are soon parted. I would never trust a guy working out of a shed who is telling me he knows more than the OEM. There is also the question of emission compliance to consider.
Thanks, great message.
Agree!
Never in my motorcycle travels have I heard anyone say I need a bigger or more powerful bike
Me either!
You got this one wrong. The standard maps are junk.
Excessive engine braking
Jerky throttle response
I've had my tenrere mapped and it gained some massive benefits
The midrange power is way smoother. No jerky throttle and harsh engine braking. Great video though for an alternative look
@panyanci let's see what you say in the next two years
Exactly!
@@FULQUE It's well known and documented that modern ECU factory mapping is badly manipulated at the development stage to make it through the impossible regulations set by the governing bodies for the ultra tough euro regulations. Like you have admitted yourself you're older machine had these adjustments already installed which never caused catastrophic engine failure. Come on my friend like I say you have this one wrong. Absolutely staggering results in my motorcycle against the factory set fuel on and off jerk ECU mapping.
I would advise, you need to actually ride one with the mapping changed to appreciate this cp2 engine unleashed to its full potential
Pavil how do You oil Your re-washable filter? what's heavier, carrying oil for that, or having brand new paper filter? or am i missing something?
You can oiled with almost any oil, included the engine oil.
Can You share Your experience with KN filter at some point? i have washable TwinAir and fear it will let too much debris into the engine… isn't it true that with any other filter than paper one we let more dust into the system meaning we sacrifice oil change sooner than it says in service manual?
Ok will do
Do you think Yamaha will do a T9 in the future, using the MT09 engine. Cheers
I don't know and heave zero interest!
Black widdow collector was like 200euros or something like that. Worth it IMO.
Okay!
My son had car that was made to be fast and he wanted it to go faster he put a lot of money and time on this car. I told him that the car is going to blow up and it did (too many mods) you will allways chase the weakest link. In the end I told him if you want a fast car you buy a fast car but if you want a reliable vehicle you don't want to change a thing keep it stock.Cheers
I guess that he did not listen!
I'd rather ride a donkey than care for a high maintenance horse. My 650 has one cylinder, no fuel pump, water pump or electronics to fail, and Suzuki has only changed a few parts on them over the years. The 2024 has all interchangeable parts with the 1996. Lucky for me I can still buy a new DR in Canada. The CV carb works at all altitudes so I don't knock the archaic nature of the bike. Works for adventures. 366 pounds is a reasonable weight off pavement. I rode one coast to coast with a group of highway touring bikes on a charity ride and that was 10,000km across country and then I turned and rode back home to the west coast solo. Any bike is an adventure bike but I prefer simple things like screw adjustable valves. I can check and adjust valves in half an hour without any special tools, not that I need to adjust the valves often. One of the few remaining joys in Canada is I can still buy a new 2024 DR650 if I want but I have a couple in the garage so I'm okay for now. I have plenty of friends who sat out all or most of a riding season waiting for electrical parts for BMW's and KTM's. And people so rich they just bought a new motorcycle when a fuel pump failed during a trip on their Austrian bike and the couldn't get a new one right away. I'm not rich but I have peace of mind with a simple bike I can turn wrenches on.
Thanks for sharing!
I have owned and ridden 6 different motorcycles since the 90's. Except for the burnt-out alternator coil on a Versys 650, I have never replaced or modified any stock parts. The primary reason is cost - motorcycles are expensive in my country, and spending money on after-market parts may even void the warranty. Getting a few more horse powers (which I would never get to use 99% of the time) just doesn't seem to justify doing it.
Thanks for sharing!
reliability and proven tech over everything for me. a bike can be high powered as long as the machine is known to have bulletproof reliability.
i am not messing with my bike except the exhaust, the engineers are building stuff the way it is for a reason
Agree!
halo Pavlin! What is your opinion on the fueling in the 660 engines that comes really poor from stock so it can make emitions standards? should it be taken care off? doesnt it in fact hurt the bikes relyabiliti?
Yes, it will.
what is in your opinon the best way o solving that issue? @@motorcycleadventures
FYI, K&N is like going without any air filter....it has been proven many times many years ago.
that's clearly an exaggeration, but yea, it's suppose to be even worse than foam filters, which are worse than paper. same principal goes for oil filters.
Well...I have thousands of km with K&N filters and cannot say these words!
Do have a video where you have tested different bikes?
Many, just check the channel.
Reliability. Sure if you have radio to get rescued, maybe you can get more performance. But buying the radio and never having to use it is priceless.
Fair enough!
I have a 2021 crf1100. It's mint with only 4k miles! I rang a tuner about exhausts. First thing he said was with a full system Inc performance air filters, be about 4hp max! Yes, at the top end where Honda drop hp for max speed, I'd get 25hp gain! But usable hp is only 4hp! I've Leo vince silencer (£400) decat headers, £550, fitting ??? A tune is essential for air/fuel mixture, £550! Filters £55. So for a mid range system I'm looking at 2grand for 4hp, a few kgs shaved off! If I sell her, I may lose money as its not standard! Plus extra insurance! So I think I'll stick with just the silencer! It sounds great, if I want to feel more hp, well, I could lose 3 stone!!!! 😂
Thanks for sharing!
As a mechanical engineer, I nod in agreement
Good!
Is it possible to damage swing arm with stock exhaust, or just exhaust pipe?
It damage the swing arm.
Most of the new bikes after filter, exaust and remap have much better trottle responce and better power delivery trougouth the rev range. It's not only HP what matters. The reability - if the remap is done professionally, and parts are good quality, and HP's are not crancked to the sky, i don't see any concerns, even when the bike is running more smoothly and with ease, you will ride it in lower rev's.
If you say so...
We want both worlds to set our adrenaline going. But the best bike won't do if it breaks down on the road to Magadan at nightfall. So reliability first for me, performance second. Happy days, Günter/Nürnberg
Thanks for sharing!
By 2016, I decided my GS1200 requires better sound. I spend R8000 for a tail pipe and went on a ride from Capetown to Kilimanjaro.
On the highway I enjoyed the sound and across the border into Mozambique, I saved the lives of many chickens because my approach was more audible, but....
Going slowly, as one does a lot in Africa, the engine was not as smooth as it used to be. This iritated me enough to replace the stock exhaust on my return.
Thanks for sharing!
Buy the motorcycle with the right amount of PS and agility which you want. Aftermarket mods are not for the faint hearted and it actually costs more than a new bike which has the exact extra power you want. Anyway, lots of PS does not make you an Adventure biker. However, some riders like to tinker and they enjoy the journey, and that is always okay. Not everything is about saving money and not everyone is like 1 person.
Exactly!
I spend money on the Trips & Travels, if the motorcycle needs upgrades it will let me know...
Good decision!
Reliability beats performance every time 👍👍
True!
Just doing some rough calculations, 1500 euros is about 2400 aud. Allowing for 6 litres per 100k's, I ride slow and don't carry much and an average of $2/litre, the cost of the upgrades would pay for the fuel to travel around Australia. See a country or have some extra power? I'll see the country thanks.
Cool! Thanks for adding this information!
Could anyone tell me te point of tube tyres?? I’m a solo rider and for sure not able or willing to remove the tyre from the rim next to the ditch.
The main deal breaker on a T7 and others with tube tyres for me
Show me a dirt bike with tubeless tires and I will agree that tubes are pointless.
Pavlin - I don’t have a dirt bike! That’s completely different to an adv. With a dirt bike I wouldn’t go on a 6-weeks trip (even some do). And I’ve witnessed riders bringing their dirt bikes to the spot on a trailer and a van with the machinery to change tyres.
I don’t understand the advantage of tube tyres. Lighter? Faster? More km possible?
In case of more flexibility I personally wouldn’t notice the difference. But a tubeless tyre I fixed during little rain somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Didn't know that I could curse so well 😅
Anyway, well done this episode (as usual)
You cannot ride if you bend the rim, with tubes you can. Both option have some pros and cons. For my type of trips, I prefer to bet on tubes.
Ahhh - now I see the point!! Thank you, I understand. But I think, I’ll stay with tubeless cuz I’m not a hardcore off-roader (even one could damage the rim in a pothole). I take lessons yearly in springtime (on dirt bikes) to make me more confident off-road. But my main goal is long distance riding, discovering new landscapes and cultures (esp. foods) making friends with locals etc.
The fortune nowadays is, there’s no bad bike out there and everyone can find a fitting one for his purposes. Doesn’t make sense being a track racer on a T7 or GS 😉
Cheers from a 69 yrs old Austrian
Use better quality fuel ??? Cheap better engine cleaning but not so available especially off road. Just a thought
Might help.
Yes, upgrades are fun, but engine upgrades are less effective and less recommended, it's better to replace the entire motorcycle with one that has a bigger engine.
Agree!
is t7 good for someone who is 1.76 tall?
You will need to lower it.
Shhhhhhhhhh, Pav the after market guys don’t want you to realize that air intake and exhaust modifications on modern engines will only net modest increases in the upper RPM range. That upper RPM range is generally only used momentarily. If you want a powerful bike Suzuki Hayabusa and Kawasaki H2 are fine examples both with OEM intake and exhaust. Like others have said, save your money for the journey.
Exactly!
If you want mote power sell the bike and but a more powerful one, cheaper, more reliable, better value when sold and more.
Now K&N air filter is great on the road but they are not good in dusty conditions. Why? They let more air and also particles through. Believe me look at the intake valves after and you will see it.
The best solution is a foam filter, like uni filter you Can wash and oil. They are better filters than stock. Not only that you Can Get a pre filter to stick over The snorkel to greatly reduce the strain on your main filter in dusty conditions.
There is also s 50 cent Fix for the exhaust hanger issue. I think burning feet show it in a video.
My tenere is the rally version with exhaust, where the ecu is mapped from factory and here is my point, it includes legal documentation.
Because here is one big issue, which is getting bigger every year. That is especially exhaust, legislation and approval is getting more and more important. If you put on a non homoglated system you will not ride on in in more and more countries not only in Europe. So that is something to keep in mind. Your Adventure stopped in a village in Germany where TUV had a control. You must either set your bike back to homoglated or its impounded hey you Even Get a hefty fine. So in Europe its not smart to toss on non EC approved stuff. Especially modifying exhaust. This is due to all the idiots who absolutely had to ride with as loud as possible exhaust. Thanks to them its now a problem in ever increasing number og places in the World. Not only that these idiots has managed to Block of increasing number of gravel roads. Well they and the morons who have to ride like you race where people and animals walk.
Anyway If you want to modify, modify legally, and make sure you do not compromise warranty and reliability. You want more power in the road Get an MT-09, you want to go fast on a track, Get an R-1, you want comfortable on tour Get a RT1300, you dont do anything including easy gravel but lots of highway Get a GS1300 or similar. There is s bike that will do what you want. Is the bike to heavy offroad Get a Honda 300, you know what i mean.
For me the Tenere is the sweet spot in Europe, its fast enough for any road, great in curvy roads, and works great on gravel and decent offroad. It is not a master of none but a compromise that works fine. If i want to go North Cape, down to Marocco, over to the Georgia or further or whatever it will work and it is very reliable. It will do the boring highway stretch to Get to the fun part with no complaints, it will do amazing stuff on the fun stuff but as Harder it is as more you the rider need to be competent. It feels so easy until you go to fast for your ability and then its suddenly a big handful. If you know this and use your Brain it is a real pleasure.
Take care and have fun
Thanks for taking the time!
Great job you better off spending the money on suspension because all the horsepower does nothing if the tire is not in contact with the ground and more horsepower usually means more wheel spin equals faster tire wear and less traction endless cycle that why I only need 5 hp. Lol do what makes you ride.
Agree!
Coffee or tea ?????😊😊😊😊😊
Tea for me!
@@motorcycleadventures tea ! I see !!! Have a merry Christmas my friend!!!🏍🏍🏍🏍🏍🏍👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺
Coffee for me please. Hold the milk and sugar.
Mapping is not just about hp. Is Much better throttle response, less chance to stall in technical riding, more fuel for better cooling and happier engine. Euro 5 and euro 6 standards is about pollution and is negatively affecting your performance and even reliability running your bike super lean in fueling. If it’s allowed in your country, get rid of it, tune it and have a more reliable, more fun and happier engine.
Fair enough!
Hi. A little one sided I feel, and overly focused on Bhp which is somewhat misleading. Manufacturers (particularly with Euro legislation) are driven by factors such as compliance and cost. There are specialists who are very experienced in improving bikes, unhindered by these limitations. From personal experience I can tell you that a pre Euro sports engine can yield an extra 30+ hp, and vastly improved torque and smoothness - using a complete sports exhaust, free-flow filter and Power Commander with Dyno time. Post EU bikes are even more limited so big gains are possible, and in particular, a remap can provide better mid-range power (not necessarily reflected in Bhp figures) by correcting artificially limited fuelling due to the Eu testing scheme.
I agree with all of these, but they comes with price, and it is not only money!
@@motorcycleadventures Hi. Not wishing to pick an argument, but again you state definitely that there IS a price to pay. The reality is - it depends. Some 'strong' motors can be given a substantial performance boost with no ill effects at all if properly maintained. And let's not forget that manufacturers tend to 'sandbag' their motors ... that is they deliberately produce initial versions with lower performance, so that they can extend the life of any given model by releasing a little more power each year - often with nothing more than a new power map! Overall, I see your point, but I think it's made in too black & white a fashion. The truth is that performance mods do 'run the risk' of future reliability issues, but if chosen carefully, they're a cost-effective and reliable way to improve on the often limited designs put out by manufacturers who have their eyes on cost savings and emissions compliance.
As a practical example, I have a 1997 Suzuki TL1000S, which I've owned from new. It originally put out a claimed 125 Bhp. I've always used it for fast runs and track fun. For the past 20 years, it's benefitted from a power Commander, better air filter and a full race exhaust system - but no internal engine changes. With a careful Dyno setup, it produces around 150 Bhp. It runs completely reliably, and is still on it's original clutch. Not every change is negative.
not fully on board with your thinking. Nowadays bikes are not just made to be reliable, they are mainly made to pass emission tests, therefore run very lean , sometimes creating a lot of engine heat. Also there seems to be a trend for new bikes to run higher compression ratios in order to maintain power despite the emission restrictions . Many have found that making a few changes ( ecu, muffler and air filter ) actually improves the way the engine is running. And as for the power argument, for most of us it is not the peak or max power that matters, but rather how this power is delivered and the torque curve , all make more difference than a peaky higher power. And that can also be achieved by some of those changes. I also think that not all can be brought down to the cost argument , we all see value in a different way . I really like my Tenere World Raid , and i am ready to try and get the best of it and spend a few bobs to achieve that, and that is also part of the pleasure of owning a bike and making it unique.
Do whatever is good for you!
After 45 years of riding my conclusion is in accord with yours, Pavel:
Don't tinker with the reliability...
Thanks for sharing!
Factory reliability is always my choice over DIY make more power. Most riders only need the power there Moto comes with.
Agree!
WELL NOW! I have 2023 klr. I guess if I was looking for power I should have bought something else.
You could reduce the weight of that pig by 25 lbs if you get a different muffler and replace the lead acid battery with lithuim-ion. The power gains would be very modest, but the weight savings are huge.
I won't touch the battery!
keep it simple
Always!
RELIABILITY!
Always!
☕
Thanks for watching!
You are spending over 1000€ for what? Maybe a bit weight reduction and better sound...Also, stock exhausts were developed by the company that also developed the engine. With aftermarket exhausts you most likely reduce the power output of the engine (without power commander and remapping of ECU). Getting a new exhaust is the least thing you should be spending your money on. Better tyres or suspension upgrade will give you way better performance than anything else. And you don't reduce reliability or power output of the bike.
Those upgrades only make sense for bikes that are used for racing with an open exhaust system, decat, power commander, remapped ECU etc.
Agree!
Reliability Numero Uno BUT some bikes example: dr650 has a huge benefit from an aftermarket pipe and rejet. Very cheap and easy way to dramatically improve performance and reduce weight.
MT07 has stock exhaust weight of one trillion pounds. ..and sounds like one trillion ass cheeks. ECU flash and a new pipe same result. Small price to pay .
Same with bikes like a KLR 650. The factory exhaust weights about 20 lbs, and absolutely chokes the already underpowered engine.
Fair enough!
This is not rocket science it's been going for years reliability for me
Absolutely!
Gain 4 hp up the top of the rpm range. And lose torque in the lower rpm range. Look at all the bikes that make great peak hp for the engine capacity. The low end torque is very weak.
True