Thanks for this video instruction. My glass started separating from the corners like in your video about a year ago and I took it to a shop in Honolulu to repair it. They charged me $400 to re-seal the two sides and bottom of the rear windshield. The top edge of the windshield separated earlier this week. I used the DAP marine sealant/adhesive you used and repaired it similarly. It worked like a charm. Now that I see the result, I think it was the same method the professionals used. FYI, back then I was told that a quality aftermarket cloth top for an Audi A4 costs $3000, installation extra. You can buy inexpensive vinyl tops for about $1000.
They were able to glue it. Not quite as clean a job as yours, but the window is reattached. We'll see how long it lasts, but even if this needs to be redone every so often, it still beats replacing the top. So thanks for the idea and the demonstration!
Dealing with the same problem on my 05 Audi A4 in Italy. After seeing this video I took the car to a body shop and asked them to glue it back into place. Mine however is completely detached on all sides. The body shop said that the real problem may not be the glue, but the fabric shrinking over time so that it's no longer possible to stretch it back over the edge of the glass. But they are giving it a try and I will see how they did tomorrow.
Matthew, Thanks for posting this how-to. My wife's '05 A4's rear window began to separate from the top exactly as your has. I used a $4 tub silicone adhesive/sealer and your technique. It turned out neat & clean, and seems very promising. All this after we were turned down by an auto upholsterer and a motor sports German car specialist center. I used silicone, btw, because hands-down it's the most effective adhesive for glass.
I'll be trying your fix tomorrow. I went to Lowe's and bought all your "ingredients." Plan to watch the video again. Mine is 75% loose. I have a 2002 Audi TT. Only 60,000 miles on it and garaged the entire time. Probably why the window made it 12 years without coming loose. I have high hopes. Tried a different glue and it didn't cure after 24 hours. Going to use mineral spirits and razor blade to remove the excess residue from old glue etc. Wish me luck!
Good points of understanding. Problem you have is your using the wrong adhesive. Always check with the pros what they use. Urethane, Dow has uv protect. in it and 3m you have to go purchase a little bottle for 17.oo extra. Use tape to keep the job neat around the window. When done all you need go do is pull up the masking tape for straight lines and prof. Looking job. Use lots of pillows or air bed to inflate and push the window against the top.
I used this exact method and materials to repair an Audi TT it came out very well and took little time aside from cure time. Thank you for the great video!
3/15/14 Thanks for taking the effort to share your experiences. Gave me a good start for my 2004 A4. It took me a while to click onto what was happening to the car - I thought the seal between the lower rear frame and the car body was failing. Once I used my eyes properly it occurred to me that I probably had made things worse scraping ice somewhat carelessly. All the left side and lower corner had come loose, and the lower corner of the right side. I decided to do the repair with the hood fully closed. The right side had really not pulled back at all, so was correctly placed for repair. The left side was not so easy, I couldn't get it closer than 1/8 inch from the original position, but I reckoned that was good enough. The corner I cleaned off the old adhesive with a single edged razor blade; the other side I decided not to scrape the old adhesive away, but in both places I thoroughly cleaned the surfaces with acetone. I masked the glass with masking tape, but I masked the very edge of the canvas with a thin strip of duct tape - it adhered to the canvas better than masking tape. To the adhesive. 3M™ Windo-Weld™ Super Fast Urethane, 08609, Black, 10.5 fl oz Cartridge - about $25. I'm convinced this is the right stuff to use. It's intended for this sort of job and it's really tough once cured (I've used it on my boat portlights too). However it's sticky, messy, very black, and will get onto something unintended, even if you are really careful! So take all precautions to cover up everything, including yourself. I cut the nozzle to about 3/32 i/d, which is a compromise between wanting a very small hole and being able to squeeze the gun to get the adhesive out. I ran a bead of around 1/8 inch dia or more (difficult to judge) between the glass and the canvas and pressed the canvas down till the adhesive squeezed out. I ignored that for the time being and put a piece of masking tape over it so I could the rest something heavy on the glued edge without making a mess. (Meant say I stuffed a couple of children's life jackets on the back shelf to push the glass upwards.) Once the adhesive cured, I peeled off the masking and carefully went round with an Xacto knife to clean away the excess - easier than it sounds. The repair is invisible unless you know what you are looking for and for the few opportunities I've had to open the top, it withstands the stresses of doing so.
hi .. I just use the same thing today but am afraid to put the top down once it dry. is it still holding? do u put the top down a lot or just a few times a week ?. thanks
My repair is holding strong! I did it once and then found it needed more. It had come undone in a few spots but it's great now. It's been 2 months now.
@@musamusayev7755 I did. I ended up having to trade it in my TT shortly afterwards, so I'm not sure on the longevity of it. But it was a solid hold for the time. I used small high strength magnets on each side of the top to keep pressure on while the sealant set.
I used a product on our Volvo C70 called 3M Window Weld. You can find it on Amazon and it is also recommended to use the primer that is also advertised with it. Total cost was about $25 dollars. The 3M adhesive looks exactly like the glue that was used in the factory. I had quite a wrestling match holding the top in place. Wound up using clamps and paint sticks. That worked good but now another section is coming apart and will be ordering more 3M Window Weld & Primer. I think for this next section I will have to make some sort of template to hold the top together with the window. Liked your idea about using something inflatable, might try that on mine!
@@goddessgirl9718 I haven't been checking this email too often lately. It held up fine on the straight runs but not too good on the corners. We wound up putting a new top on it shortly after I had the problems with the corners. Just couldn't get them to hold. The new one has a lifetime warranty on the window and a five year on the fabric itself. Since the vehicle is garage kept I think this top will last us for some time. We live in the south east so the sun is really hard on it.
@@Mark-bq2of I'm having to go this route. May I ask the brand of the top you went with? I'd like to keep my car until I can get another one with a tan top/interior. Thanks for the reply and for the additional help!
Most important thing is getting the old glue out. I used acetone and cleaned out all the old glue. I also took my top off completely and reglued the inside also as it was worse than the outside.
I would like to know how long this fix has lasted? My new to me Volkswagen Beetle is coming loose along the top edge. I saw it this afternoon. Did you use mineral spirits only on the glass? Plan to have my hubby try this. Thanks for the video.
I know this is old but how did it hold up. I need to do my wife's mustang and the high bond black windshield urethane scares. Me that it will be quite messy and permanent if I screw up.
Hi, I come across your video. Great fix by the way. My Cab suffers from the same problem. Ive tried everything to try and fix is but nothing works. My local dealer quoted me £3000 to change the roof...no chance! How is you fix still holding up. Has it stood the test of time. I was looking on ebay and come across that sealant you used, but thought Id see how yours was holding up since posting the video. Thanks
Thanks Chris. It is still holding up fine, 18 months later. I did do the other side, but didn't clean it as well with mineral spirits, and it failed. I re-did it, carefully cleaning everything first, and it worked great and is still holding. Google "Dap Marine Sealant" for information on what I used. Good luck!
Matthew Brenengen Cheers for that Matthew. Im going to attempt to tackle mine this weekend. As you can imagine here in the UK with all the rain we get a leaky roof can turn into a real problem rather quickly unless its sorted. Anyway, thanks again for the video.
Hi Matt, Well Ive managed to sort my roof at last. I ended using this as in the end... www.amazon.co.uk/Dow-Corning-Marine-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B003T6BNY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387878549&sr=8-1&keywords=Dow+Corning+78g+Marine+Silicone+Sealant+-+Clear. I found the key to making a successful fix is preparation. I cant emphasize this enough. Spend the extra time to make sure everything is 100% clean and free of any other glue or residue. I used a a small sharp chisel to remove the existing glue/residue from the window and then a stanley blade to scrape off the glue on the fabric, followed by copious amounts of spirits to finish off. I followed the same process that you did Matt, carefully filling the gap between the glass and the fabric with enough sealant to sink a battleship. So far so good and 5 days on the the car is leak free despite some horrendous storms recently. I would suggest to people once they've done the fix not to open the roof for a few days to allow the sealant to cure. Seeing as its now winter here in the UK I cant see mine opening until spring so I think it will be well and truly cured by then. All in all an good tutorial and a good fix...Cheers !
Okay - what is the final verdict? Our '05 now has the loose glass issue. Rather than 3k installed for an aftermarket I like the glue/silicone. After reading all the posts i would like to know which ended up working the best...Silicone or glue. Thanks!
Having the same issue with my 2004 a4. My question is, does the fabric being unglued cause water to seep into the floorboard? I have checked the cowl drains but I suspect it's the top coming unglued, thoughts anyone?
Eliz Edge yes, if u dont get the roof repaired, the water will run into the car and go under the carpet. Happened to my 2004 a4 and ruined all the electrics and control units.
I am so glad to hear this. My passenger side floorboards got flooded after a really heavy rain, so I suspected it was the cowl drains. After removing the battery and finding that it was clear, I was really stumped until I noticed the glass was starting to separate. I wasn't 100% sure that it was causing the issue. Now just to fix it before the next rain and I should be good!
So far use of DAP Auto & Marine Sealant, Silicone Rubber is working very well and in below freezing weather. Spec sheet is awesome match for the job. Silicone can be applied in cold conditions. I have yet to repair the interior layer where ragtop meets glass. Defrost on back window working well on 2003 TT, first time repair. It it not as 'pretty' as I hoped after drying and excess removed, but it is not the first aging issue on the car. I see no reason to pay $1800 for a 'new' non brand Audi ragtop. Audi ragtop price is much higher. Original material itself is in very good condition, but it could use a good quality ragtop cleaner and treatment. Make sure this is the FIRST product you try as the 'repair' people in your area may steer you to the wrong product as they did with me. If you use the wrong product, nothing after its use will work due to chemical exposure conflicts. www.dap.com/fileshare/tech/00000694001.pdf
My 2010 A5 is just starting to come off.... What about Gorilla Glue? It seems to work on everything else. I only say Gorilla Glue because I've got a bunch of it in the garage. :-)
just to let you know about how Audis A5 Cabrio have the same problem (my got it after just 8 years)! Can´t repair it with the same system like here showed because of too much tractive force tearing the top from glass. So one needs way stronger glue (2 component) and a system that pressures the top with a glass during the glue heartening (something like this: ruclips.net/video/VUnyBCDGPow/видео.html but, can also be build by your self...).
To kryptoreklama. Próbowałem użyć podobny środek - też amerykański firmy VersaChem "Flowable Silocone" - Windshields & Glass Sealer na moim A4 i pomimo dwóch prób naprawy dach odkleja się od szyby. Także nie polecam tego, bo będziecie rozczarowani. To jest ten sam środek, ten sam skład, bo z tyłu jest obrazek i wpisane, że polecany do "Windshields". Pomijam już niską cenę tego preparatu, ale szczerze mówiąc to lepiej działał czarny silikon do klejenia szyb samochodowych, bo wytrzymywał kilkanaście otwarć i zamknięć dachu, a ten nie wytrzymał jednego, porobiły się pęknięcia i się odkleił. Więc to totalna lipa! Przestrzegam przed kupnem i nie polecam tych preparatów! Oczywiście zaraz napisze stado przeciwników, że źle to kleiłem. Nieprawda! Szyba do dachu była przyciśnięta na 24 bite godziny ciężkimi odważnikami i po klejeniu nadmiar silikonu wyszedł na szybę. Obciąłem jedynie to, co zostało. A dach materiałowy był przed tą operacją oczyszczany specjalnymi środkami do czyszczenia materiałów na bazie alkoholu. Po jednym otwarciu popękało wszystko.
$1000 says that repair lasted less than a year. What ive seen people do is a long term fix is remove the entire piece of glass and install clear vinyl in its place.
tops are $600 not $5,000. Silicone is not an adhesive. it may have lasted in this case, but there are better glues to use. Best to just replace the top on an nice car. The new bonding methods are superior to what the factory used
+Paul Seeberg The license plate bracket for the front has an MSRP of $200. I promise you a new top cannot be installed cheaply. If you have a suggestion on a better product, then let's see your video or hear your suggestion.
I just got a quote from Audi for my 2008 TT and it was 5k! I'm waiting on pricing for an after market top. If that's too high I'll try this.. thank you!
labor is going to be the biggest part of the job. If you can DIY it, get a Robbins top. Best quality - SAME material as original BUT Far superior glass mounting than the original . Local shops have quoted 2500 for a Robbins top installed or about $600 or so for just the top if you DIY it. Don't get an audi top. FAR more expensive and horrible rear glass adhesion compared to higher tech that is available. Here is a link to my pictures of my 01 that I did myself. Came out FLAWLESS facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.254349151241945.72623.100000005851713&type=1&l=37a07c9c4c
No need for a dealer to do it. Find a local car upholsterer that does this day in and day out. Likely be about $2000 or so for labor. Insurance will pay for it if the glass breaks (if you have comprehensive coverage) like they did in my case.
Just saw this reply... I posted below (see phanttomracer..thats me too) Robins top is about $6-700 and an advanced DIY job, or about $2000 (boston prices) labor at an auto upholsterer shop, if you dont want to DIY it. I did it myself with nice (perfect) results.
Thanks for this video instruction. My glass started separating from the corners like in your video about a year ago and I took it to a shop in Honolulu to repair it. They charged me $400 to re-seal the two sides and bottom of the rear windshield. The top edge of the windshield separated earlier this week. I used the DAP marine sealant/adhesive you used and repaired it similarly. It worked like a charm. Now that I see the result, I think it was the same method the professionals used. FYI, back then I was told that a quality aftermarket cloth top for an Audi A4 costs $3000, installation extra. You can buy inexpensive vinyl tops for about $1000.
They were able to glue it. Not quite as clean a job as yours, but the window is reattached. We'll see how long it lasts, but even if this needs to be redone every so often, it still beats replacing the top. So thanks for the idea and the demonstration!
Dealing with the same problem on my 05 Audi A4 in Italy. After seeing this video I took the car to a body shop and asked them to glue it back into place. Mine however is completely detached on all sides. The body shop said that the real problem may not be the glue, but the fabric shrinking over time so that it's no longer possible to stretch it back over the edge of the glass. But they are giving it a try and I will see how they did tomorrow.
I have the same problem. Did the gluing work out for you?
Still holding up! Make sure to really clean the top with mineral spirits first.
Matthew,
Thanks for posting this how-to. My wife's '05 A4's rear window began to separate from the top exactly as your has. I used a $4 tub silicone adhesive/sealer and your technique. It turned out neat & clean, and seems very promising.
All this after we were turned down by an auto upholsterer and a motor sports German car specialist center.
I used silicone, btw, because hands-down it's the most effective adhesive for glass.
Great idea with the inflatable mattress to put pressure on from underneath. Much easier than clamping as I’d seen others suggest.
I'll be trying your fix tomorrow. I went to Lowe's and bought all your "ingredients." Plan to watch the video again. Mine is 75% loose. I have a 2002 Audi TT. Only 60,000 miles on it and garaged the entire time. Probably why the window made it 12 years without coming loose. I have high hopes. Tried a different glue and it didn't cure after 24 hours. Going to use mineral spirits and razor blade to remove the excess residue from old glue etc. Wish me luck!
BachFestSoprano how long did it last.. i am going to try it tomorrow..
Good points of understanding. Problem you have is your using the wrong adhesive. Always check with the pros what they use. Urethane, Dow has uv protect. in it and 3m you have to go purchase a little bottle for 17.oo extra. Use tape to keep the job neat around the window. When done all you need go do is pull up the masking tape for straight lines and prof. Looking job. Use lots of pillows or air bed to inflate and push the window against the top.
I used this exact method and materials to repair an Audi TT it came out very well and took little time aside from cure time. Thank you for the great video!
3/15/14 Thanks for taking the effort to share your experiences. Gave me a good start for my 2004 A4. It took me a while to click onto what was happening to the car - I thought the seal between the lower rear frame and the car body was failing. Once I used my eyes properly it occurred to me that I probably had made things worse scraping ice somewhat carelessly. All the left side and lower corner had come loose, and the lower corner of the right side. I decided to do the repair with the hood fully closed. The right side had really not pulled back at all, so was correctly placed for repair. The left side was not so easy, I couldn't get it closer than 1/8 inch from the original position, but I reckoned that was good enough. The corner I cleaned off the old adhesive with a single edged razor blade; the other side I decided not to scrape the old adhesive away, but in both places I thoroughly cleaned the surfaces with acetone. I masked the glass with masking tape, but I masked the very edge of the canvas with a thin strip of duct tape - it adhered to the canvas better than masking tape.
To the adhesive. 3M™ Windo-Weld™ Super Fast Urethane, 08609, Black, 10.5 fl oz Cartridge - about $25. I'm convinced this is the right stuff to use. It's intended for this sort of job and it's really tough once cured (I've used it on my boat portlights too). However it's sticky, messy, very black, and will get onto something unintended, even if you are really careful! So take all precautions to cover up everything, including yourself. I cut the nozzle to about 3/32 i/d, which is a compromise between wanting a very small hole and being able to squeeze the gun to get the adhesive out. I ran a bead of around 1/8 inch dia or more (difficult to judge) between the glass and the canvas and pressed the canvas down till the adhesive squeezed out. I ignored that for the time being and put a piece of masking tape over it so I could the rest something heavy on the glued edge without making a mess. (Meant say I stuffed a couple of children's life jackets on the back shelf to push the glass upwards.)
Once the adhesive cured, I peeled off the masking and carefully went round with an Xacto knife to clean away the excess - easier than it sounds. The repair is invisible unless you know what you are looking for and for the few opportunities I've had to open the top, it withstands the stresses of doing so.
hi .. I just use the same thing today but am afraid to put the top down once it dry. is it still holding? do u put the top down a lot or just a few times a week ?. thanks
@JohnG how did this hold? What color was your top? Thanks!
I have an 2007 A4 And noticed I was having this problem today THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
My repair is holding strong! I did it once and then found it needed more. It had come undone in a few spots but it's great now. It's been 2 months now.
Just got the same problem with my Audi, I will just di what u did . Keep it up man nice one
Dude, youre the best cant belevie your 12 yera old video is a great help
I am so happy to find this video! I was sick about having to replace the top. I wonder how it's doing so far?
good video, just went through the same, after glue clean up it's better and stronger than new!
Thanks for the video! I'll be trying this tomorrow on my TT.
DID YOU TRY IT?
@@musamusayev7755 I did. I ended up having to trade it in my TT shortly afterwards, so I'm not sure on the longevity of it. But it was a solid hold for the time. I used small high strength magnets on each side of the top to keep pressure on while the sealant set.
If the whole mirror comes unglued will it prevent it from fully closing the soft top?
Driving an Audi and wearing a BMW t-shirt. The Duality of Man? Thanks for the vid-my weekend job on my Chrysler Crossfire.
Hi Max, I have the same problem with my Crossfire. How did it go?
Brian C. Jones
Lynda Majid
Max Cichon things can get dirty, so an Audi shirt would not be an option ;-)
LOL - I thought I was the only nerd who noticed the Beemer T :)
You are a life saver!! I am definatly going to do this. Only question is if it holds after frequently putting the top up and down?
It did for me.
I did mine with the marine sealant and it´s fine.....
Best Regards
NHT
I will try this thank you! My A4 cabrio has all the top part of the glass completely detached, i hope it turns out great
I used a product on our Volvo C70 called 3M Window Weld. You can find it on Amazon and it is also recommended to use the primer that is also advertised with it. Total cost was about $25 dollars. The 3M adhesive looks exactly like the glue that was used in the factory. I had quite a wrestling match holding the top in place. Wound up using clamps and paint sticks. That worked good but now another section is coming apart and will be ordering more 3M Window Weld & Primer. I think for this next section I will have to make some sort of template to hold the top together with the window. Liked your idea about using something inflatable, might try that on mine!
How did the 3M adhesive hold?
@@goddessgirl9718 I haven't been checking this email too often lately. It held up fine on the straight runs but not too good on the corners. We wound up putting a new top on it shortly after I had the problems with the corners. Just couldn't get them to hold. The new one has a lifetime warranty on the window and a five year on the fabric itself. Since the vehicle is garage kept I think this top will last us for some time. We live in the south east so the sun is really hard on it.
@@Mark-bq2of I'm having to go this route. May I ask the brand of the top you went with? I'd like to keep my car until I can get another one with a tan top/interior. Thanks for the reply and for the additional help!
@@goddessgirl9718 Had to think about this for a little while. I remember the guy that replaced it called it "The German Fabric or Top".
@@Mark-bq2of thank you so much!
Matthew. It's been 9 years since you posted this. How well did the window hold up? Thank you.
Not sure since I sold it in 2013.
Most important thing is getting the old glue out. I used acetone and cleaned out all the old glue. I also took my top off completely and reglued the inside also as it was worse than the outside.
Any updates Matt? Not sure if I should use this adhesive or try another that might be suited to the task.....
I would like to know how long this fix has lasted? My new to me Volkswagen Beetle is coming loose along the top edge. I saw it this afternoon. Did you use mineral spirits only on the glass? Plan to have my hubby try this. Thanks for the video.
I know this is old but how did it hold up. I need to do my wife's mustang and the high bond black windshield urethane scares. Me that it will be quite messy and permanent if I screw up.
I had it for a few years after I made the video and never had any problems whatsoever. Maybe mask it off and be really careful.
great job bro.. the only thing I would like to know is how long it last . thanks
Thanks for the video, what do you use to presure the car’s window from inside the car? Thank you
That is a Therm-O-Rest, or an inflatable camping sleeping pad.
Is it still holding up?
Mi techo no baja ni sube y estoy en florida . A donde podré ir a repararlo
3M Emblem Adhesive is my favorite go to adhesive however I haven't tried it on my 2004 Volvo C70 yet.
3M Window Weld with the primer advertised on Amazon worked great on our Volvo C70!
@Mark-bq2of how long did the fix last for? Ty
mine has JBweld. still holding. 2 yeas now. Chicago
I just used in weld on mine
Wie lange hat es gehalten!
Ich habe das Auto vor fünf Jahren verkauft, also kann ich es dir nicht sagen.
Hi, I come across your video. Great fix by the way. My Cab suffers from the same problem. Ive tried everything to try and fix is but nothing works. My local dealer quoted me £3000 to change the roof...no chance! How is you fix still holding up. Has it stood the test of time. I was looking on ebay and come across that sealant you used, but thought Id see how yours was holding up since posting the video.
Thanks
Thanks Chris. It is still holding up fine, 18 months later. I did do the other side, but didn't clean it as well with mineral spirits, and it failed. I re-did it, carefully cleaning everything first, and it worked great and is still holding. Google "Dap Marine Sealant" for information on what I used. Good luck!
Matthew Brenengen
Cheers for that Matthew. Im going to attempt to tackle mine this weekend. As you can imagine here in the UK with all the rain we get a leaky roof can turn into a real problem rather quickly unless its sorted. Anyway, thanks again for the video.
Chris Toms
Let us know how it goes - what problems you encounter or suggestions you have for others. Pass it forward.
Hi Matt,
Well Ive managed to sort my roof at last. I ended using this as in the end...
www.amazon.co.uk/Dow-Corning-Marine-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B003T6BNY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387878549&sr=8-1&keywords=Dow+Corning+78g+Marine+Silicone+Sealant+-+Clear.
I found the key to making a successful fix is preparation. I cant emphasize this enough. Spend the extra time to make sure everything is 100% clean and free of any other glue or residue. I used a a small sharp chisel to remove the existing glue/residue from the window and then a stanley blade to scrape off the glue on the fabric, followed by copious amounts of spirits to finish off.
I followed the same process that you did Matt, carefully filling the gap between the glass and the fabric with enough sealant to sink a battleship. So far so good and 5 days on the the car is leak free despite some horrendous storms recently.
I would suggest to people once they've done the fix not to open the roof for a few days to allow the sealant to cure. Seeing as its now winter here in the UK I cant see mine opening until spring so I think it will be well and truly cured by then.
All in all an good tutorial and a good fix...Cheers !
Matthew Brenengen are you in a low temperature state? mine melted with the heat
Okay - what is the final verdict? Our '05 now has the loose glass issue. Rather than 3k installed for an aftermarket I like the glue/silicone. After reading all the posts i would like to know which ended up working the best...Silicone or glue. Thanks!
Jean Ferrario I can't speak for three glue people y silicone worked great. If not it is removable.
Thanks - i will do the silicone. You are a lifesaver.
My Audi is separating in the same spots. Is this common with Audi's?
170,000 people have watched this video, so I am goin guess it is common...
How long did it hold, need to do a repair too
Having the same issue with my 2004 a4. My question is, does the fabric being unglued cause water to seep into the floorboard? I have checked the cowl drains but I suspect it's the top coming unglued, thoughts anyone?
Eliz Edge yes, if u dont get the roof repaired, the water will run into the car and go under the carpet. Happened to my 2004 a4 and ruined all the electrics and control units.
I am so glad to hear this. My passenger side floorboards got flooded after a really heavy rain, so I suspected it was the cowl drains. After removing the battery and finding that it was clear, I was really stumped until I noticed the glass was starting to separate. I wasn't 100% sure that it was causing the issue. Now just to fix it before the next rain and I should be good!
K A
@@kerningandleading hi did this stop the flooding sounds identical to my situation
Thank you 🙏
I would love to know how it held up after a year.
See above - still holding well.
Hi Matthew, Is it still holding?
Same happend to my chrysler sebring going to try this next !!
Thanks
i did the same thing and after 4 days i put the top down but the silicon didnt hold .
mine melted with the heat
Great job! Forget about the top...how's the dog doing?
Thanks for asking. Nothing that a whole lot of money couldn't fix. He is totally fine now.
The glue u cut off looks like polyurethane, they have some urethane stuff called window weld superfast urethane
$5000 for a new convertable top or $400 to re seal? No way man. I'm doing this for sure.
your doing it right except that i redo the whole seal with permatex in black.
So far use of DAP Auto & Marine Sealant, Silicone Rubber is working very well and in below freezing weather. Spec sheet is awesome match for the job. Silicone can be applied in cold conditions. I have yet to repair the interior layer where ragtop meets glass. Defrost on back window working well on 2003 TT, first time repair.
It it not as 'pretty' as I hoped after drying and excess removed, but it is not the first aging issue on the car. I see no reason to pay $1800 for a 'new' non brand Audi ragtop. Audi ragtop price is much higher. Original material itself is in very good condition, but it could use a good quality ragtop cleaner and treatment.
Make sure this is the FIRST product you try as the 'repair' people in your area may steer you to the wrong product as they did with me. If you use the wrong product, nothing after its use will work due to chemical exposure conflicts.
www.dap.com/fileshare/tech/00000694001.pdf
interesting part of this Video is BMW repairing Audi
That's B's that top is not 5000.
My 2010 A5 is just starting to come off.... What about Gorilla Glue? It seems to work on everything else. I only say Gorilla Glue because I've got a bunch of it in the garage. :-)
Hmmmm. Try again. It works when I play it.
silicone glue is not work for the rear glasses!!!!!!
just to let you know about how Audis A5 Cabrio have the same problem (my got it after just 8 years)! Can´t repair it with the same system like here showed because of too much tractive force tearing the top from glass. So one needs way stronger glue (2 component) and a system that pressures the top with a glass during the glue heartening (something like this: ruclips.net/video/VUnyBCDGPow/видео.html but, can also be build by your self...).
To kryptoreklama. Próbowałem użyć podobny środek - też amerykański firmy VersaChem "Flowable Silocone" - Windshields & Glass Sealer na moim A4 i pomimo dwóch prób naprawy dach odkleja się od szyby. Także nie polecam tego, bo będziecie rozczarowani. To jest ten sam środek, ten sam skład, bo z tyłu jest obrazek i wpisane, że polecany do "Windshields". Pomijam już niską cenę tego preparatu, ale szczerze mówiąc to lepiej działał czarny silikon do klejenia szyb samochodowych, bo wytrzymywał kilkanaście otwarć i zamknięć dachu, a ten nie wytrzymał jednego, porobiły się pęknięcia i się odkleił. Więc to totalna lipa! Przestrzegam przed kupnem i nie polecam tych preparatów!
Oczywiście zaraz napisze stado przeciwników, że źle to kleiłem. Nieprawda!
Szyba do dachu była przyciśnięta na 24 bite godziny ciężkimi odważnikami i po klejeniu nadmiar silikonu wyszedł na szybę. Obciąłem jedynie to, co zostało. A dach materiałowy był przed tą operacją oczyszczany specjalnymi środkami do czyszczenia materiałów na bazie alkoholu. Po jednym otwarciu popękało wszystko.
Hier würde ein ein Reperatur-Set geben welches für alle Fahrzeuge mit eingeklebter Heckscheibe kompatibel ist:
www.munich-custom-creative.de/
it wont work.
It did work.
+Matthew Brenengen How long is has it been since you done it, and how long did it work for mate ?
I did it three years ago, but I sold the car a year ago. It was still holding fine when I sold it.
Ok ...and thank you very much for the considerate speedy reply :-)
$300 new top on Amazon with the back window.
Bullshit
Also, I did this repair and would recommend doing the whole window at one time if possible
Poor dog is so skinny
So you own an Audi with a BMW shirt on ............
really
After this video I would never buy a convertible .
$1000 says that repair lasted less than a year. What ive seen people do is a long term fix is remove the entire piece of glass and install clear vinyl in its place.
I can give you my address so you can send me the check.
He couldnt afford a BMW, so he bought an old Audi. Thats whats the tshirt for.
Awesome comment.
+Matthew Brenengen thank u mr Brengenen
Audis are the same price bro. Dumbass.
you can't afford neither dumb shit!!
I have a 2003 AudiTT I bought new and have been unable to let it go. Just awesome.
Good luck. It's last until next Friday.
And the top is not $5,000!
I install them every day for $2,000 or less.
tops are $600 not $5,000. Silicone is not an adhesive. it may have lasted in this case, but there are better glues to use. Best to just replace the top on an nice car. The new bonding methods are superior to what the factory used
+Paul Seeberg The license plate bracket for the front has an MSRP of $200. I promise you a new top cannot be installed cheaply. If you have a suggestion on a better product, then let's see your video or hear your suggestion.
I just got a quote from Audi for my 2008 TT and it was 5k! I'm waiting on pricing for an after market top. If that's too high I'll try this.. thank you!
labor is going to be the biggest part of the job. If you can DIY it, get a Robbins top. Best quality - SAME material as original BUT Far superior glass mounting than the original . Local shops have quoted 2500 for a Robbins top installed or about $600 or so for just the top if you DIY it. Don't get an audi top. FAR more expensive and horrible rear glass adhesion compared to higher tech that is available. Here is a link to my pictures of my 01 that I did myself. Came out FLAWLESS facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.254349151241945.72623.100000005851713&type=1&l=37a07c9c4c
No need for a dealer to do it. Find a local car upholsterer that does this day in and day out. Likely be about $2000 or so for labor. Insurance will pay for it if the glass breaks (if you have comprehensive coverage) like they did in my case.
Just saw this reply... I posted below (see phanttomracer..thats me too) Robins top is about $6-700 and an advanced DIY job, or about $2000 (boston prices) labor at an auto upholsterer shop, if you dont want to DIY it. I did it myself with nice (perfect) results.