how to do a Chrysler Dodge 3.5 high output timing belt and water pump replacement
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- changing a timing belt and water pump on a 2001 Chrysler 3.5 this procedure is almost identical for any Chrysler 3.5 in any variety of vehicles. Chrysler 300 dodge charger dodge magnum Chrysler new yorker
My friend you have legit saved my ass and my car!! Thanks for the dedication you have for helping us too!!!
One of the best, if not the best instructional how to, I have seen, much obliged
One of the better presentations with regard to how to keep the marks from moving when the pin is pulled.
Brilliant screwdriver technique.
I used a pack of composite shims from Lowe's. You can place one in each area as you go. 12 to a pack
definitely nervous on my first water pump replacement involving the timing portion but your instructions seems straightforward. thanks bro
Good video too. I like the trick using the screwdriver to hold the belt against the sprockets.
Thank you for a very informative, well edited, video with great explanation. no unless banter or side chatter. No annoying intro music. This was perfect! Thanks again!
Great comprehensive tutorial with just the right amount of cuss words! Well done sir!!
Best video I have seen for this engine for the timing belt water pump.
Thank you buddy 👍 you just explain right up the main steps how to install the timing belt👍 I'm going to do that kind of job next week after November 19th - 20 so I hope that may work, and the engine will not damage as well 💪
your welcome!
@@billgoatgarage hey I have a question for you. Do you have a second?
@@A_Stereotypical_Heretic what's up?
@@billgoatgarage thanks for responding. Ok so I did a water pump job on my 01 300m 3.5ho and I got it out of time just a degree or two the first attempt. Drove it a couple miles, ran sort of poorly but not miserably then parked it. Dug back into it and went ahead and did a tensioner swap. So my problem is that like a dummy I rotated my crank and cams independently. Ie without the belt on. I didn't feel any sudden stops, or hear any contact inside the head. I did of course get the compression resistance but managed to get the marks all in line and got my belt back on. Before I put it all back together is there a chance I could have bent a valve just turning the cam pulley by hand? Didn't know these were interference engines 🙄. I'm guessing if I had I would have encountered a hard stop resistance when turning the cams?
@Lignum Metallum Sonus you should not have bent anything if you didn't ram the pistons into the valves I would just make sure you're at cylinder 1 TDC and that you didn't put the crankshaft 180 degrees out.
Great video! I'm only stuck at one part, at 7:27 you have removed the timing belt tensioner. I can't seem to get my bolts loose, what was your method of getting them loose? Doesn't seem like a great place to use a torch to heat them up, and penetrating oil isn't really working. I only have hand tools, no air tools. I can't seem to get enough torque on them to get them loose.
Just changed timing belt on my intrepid rt, used your method, worked out perfect. Thanks a lot man, best regards!
Hi thank you for this wonderful video.
I have a question for you;I took the tencioner aut by mistake, do you think a cant put it back without open the engine?
Thak you.
Thank you for video on the timing belt 👍😀
My timng belt tensioner pulley bearing has failed its floppong loose snd the belt got slack now car drove home slaping the belt around in there but drove fine glad i saw this video thanks
glad I was able to help you!
Do u think i can replace it without having to pull the harmonic balancer as the belt is still on just has the slack from the tensioner bearing pulley thing no lomger working thabks again on the video
So was the harmonic balancer bolt Lefty loosey? Was it reverse threads? How did you get the bolt out and hold the engine in place
One of the best video for 300 Chrysler timing belt 👍
Thanks for the video and valuable screwdriver and other tips. I've never done this before but feel confident that I can do this. God Bless!
Omg thank you 🙏 thank you very much for your time 🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡thank you 👋👋
Thanks for this video! Everyone has told me all my valves are bent now so I'm crossing my fingers and going to change the belt
did your belt break or did the tensioner bearing fail causing slack?
@@billgoatgarage im not sure yet I ordered a belt and tensioner for it and it will be here Saturday so I'll start tearing it apart then and let you know
@@billgoatgarage ok it appears the belt didn't break buts its pretty tore up...the tensioner looks ok but im about 4 teeth jumped timing
well reset timing and hope you have no bent valves otherwise you will need to pull cylinder head
@@billgoatgarage pretty sure they are bent...it started and ran a couple seconds and died ....all the timing marks are set right...I think im done with it more work than I care to do...its looping while cranking it to
1998 trep 3.2 won't start but did backfire out thru the intake big hose coming off the throttle body, i had the pedal 1/4th the way down when it happened, i wonder why that happened?
Wow that simple huh? Imma do mine for my 99 dodge intrepid. It's got 60k miles and apparently it's recommended to replace at 70k miles to prevent from water pump failure. Thank you for this video!
If your original factory Harmonic Balancer looks solid, is it still necessary to replace it after so many miles? All new WP, timing belt kit, pullys and belts... new aftermarket balancer doesn't look as good as old factory part. Video was helpful while making these updates on my 2001 300M. Thanks.
I always reuse OEM equipment if you need a new harmonic get one from the dealer as the aftermarket lines of parts are often less then par
Great video
Sir - thanks for the video. One question if you don't mind. About 11:54 into the video you have wedged a black handle screw driver under the tensioner pulley to get and keep belt tight. You mention keeping that tension in place until you get the new tensioner installed. How do you manage to sneak the new tensioner from up underneath and keep the screwdriver locked in to keep tension on?
Thanks you for your time.
with my one hand I removed the screwdriver well holding the pulley with my other hand and then installed the tensioner with my free hand that removed the screwdriver. I say that in the video. watch it again
Put it back together. My timing mark on the passenger side gear is in the same spot as yours. The other 2 are spot on. Here's to hoping I don't get a P0016 when I start the engine after reassembly of everything. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
What is the housing called for the water pump? The elbow on the right with the two bolts somehow busted open and cracked pretty bad. I cant find the part anywhere to replace it
Question, same motor and coolant is leaking off of oil pan behind main crank. Is that waterpump failure??
Yes it is that's an indication of the water pump leaking if you can see any type of antifreeze near the engine the lower bottom part fix that soon cuz it can seize up and you'll blow your engine.
Love your videos!! . Please help !!! I have a 2010 dodge charger 3.5L . 1st day - Will crank but will not start thought it was battery . Got a jump still no start .. 2nd day - Called a mechanic to come take a look at it . Mechanic used starting fluid car cranked started then shut off next he keeps trying no start .. He diagnostic it to be fuel pump Also we couldn't hear the fuel pump mum noise. 3rd day- Fuel pump changed car wouldnt start but crank up Now we could hear the mum noise coming from fuel pump . 4th day - Went out to car battery was dead . Charged battery up at auto zone . Battery is good .. Get home put battery in still crank no start but it sounds very weird when cranking car ... Could it be Timing belt slipped ? Please Help
+Chantel Walker is the car throwing any engine codes? have you even hooked it up to a scanner? anything is possible. have you had the belt changed before ? what mileage is the car at?
5 teeth off is too much
@@martinrenteriajr5884 what happens with those engine when one or 2 teeth off?
Hi Goat, I have 99 Chrysler LHS 3.5, do you know where the oxygen sensors are located and how easy to get to?? From what I understand I need four of them.
My 2003 300 with 3.5 h.o has been in a shop for 2 months for belt kit and supposed replacement of valves bent while turning over engine in an attempt to diagnose problem myself. Of multiple excuses by mechanic for the delay, is that the hydraulic tensioner is a notorious faulty part, and collapsed on him twice, and says there is actually a class action suit on this faulty part, and that it requires an unusual amount of "special action", when installing. Anybody heard of anything like this???
this should be a simple procedure for someone who has simple mechanical knowledge as this is one of the easier belts to do. I would consider a different mechanic
attempting first tb/wp replacement on 2000 chrysler concorde LXi 3.2 with 135k miles. 19 years on first tb seems like it's about time! Did you use genuine chrysler (mopar?) parts? Seems like you've done a few of these. Any recommendations for parts or a kit?
I use the dayco kit. its cost effective and comes with everything you need
@@billgoatgarage thanks. just ordered the kit from advanceauto with COUPON25 or PAYPAL25 for 25% discount. Saved $100+ off Mopar.. you should get a referral credit ;-)
Great vid ! Have a question did mine and after aligning the 2 cam marks and crank the cam marks are not directly in the middle a little off but still between the the 2 marks is that ok ? Its a Dayco belt if that has to do with any thing
Dels Transs that’s fine and will work..you don’t have to pull the pin once you line up the 3 marks you can turn the crank 2 revolutions and see if the marks moved out of the 2 dots then when it’s good and lined up good..then you can pull the tensioner pin
Dels Transs just make sure you’re not over half a tooth
@@rahrah8076 Thanks for the reply yes was within the marks but not straight in the middle but it seems to be alright
Do you have a list of all of the pulleys and tools that you used for this video and I must say this one was most informative and was by far one of the best ones I’ve seen on this RUclips thank you I do appreciate the service you have a beautiful beautiful year
Great video! I’ve gotten through the whole install with relatively few trouble. I’m now in a predicament I can’t figure out though.
Without a right Angle impact- or removing the rad- how did you break loose the balancer bolt after getting your motor to TDC? I got everything perfect, covers back on and ready for balancer install, but I can’t get this thing loose, and trying with a breaker only turns the motor counterclockwise. Trying to avoid that.
take it out the same way you took it out the first time
Gotcha. First time there was a balancer to leverage against this time I needed to put it back on but bolt was just tight enough I couldn’t break it without turning the motor backwards.
But, I found a hack. There’s two small holes in the crank 180 from each other, plus slots between. I bolted an old barn door hinge to the front plate via one of the plate mounting bolts. Stuck a Phillips #2 in the hole closest to it, used my 1/2” 15mm ratchet to break the crank bolt loose.
The good news is, once I got it all wrapped up, the car fired right up no problem. Now I just have to get the cooling system completely bled and hoping all is good in the LHS world.
Thanks for the reply, and the pretty dang clear video procedure!
Is there any way to determine whether valves have bent if a timing belt fails?
only real way is to either use a scope to look through the spark plug hole visually. or to put on a new belt and then compression test the engine
I know the 3.5 is an interference engine. But, if timing marks are way out of alignment, can I just move both the cams and crank sprocket to TDC and replace the timing belt? Or do I have to remove a spark plug and make sure the #1 piston is at TDC and check the valves are at TDC even if the timing marks at at TDC? Is there like a second position the marks align with the that is 360 degrees away from TDC? Or can I just trust the marks to be TDC even if the crankshaft was spun? It's a long story .. 😖
Same question here 😢 dodge sucks ass for going cheap and putting their customers thru this shit.
generally at what mileage do you replace the belt and are there any indications if it's going bad; of course if you have a less aggressive driver it lasts longer..
you should replace it roughly every 100000 km
I did this on my 02 chrysler 300m 3.5 HO and I got all my timing marks lined up and was proceeding to turn the engine 2 revolutions around and on my second turn the timing belt slipped so i figured i would release the tensioner and retighten the belt which was fine but then i loosened the bolt on the tensioner pulley and when i did my left camshaft moved to the left and my right camshaft (pulley) moved to the right. So with the timing belt loosened i manualy turned the camshaft pulleys back where they are suppose to be but now I cant get my crankshaft back on TDC. What do I need to do? Please help
Should take 2 turns on the crank to equal one on the cam
I replaced my belt yesterday, on my 2000 3.2? Put it back together the car started right up, but had a noise, by the harmonic balancer? I took it for a test drive, it actually had pep, and the noise got a little less loud? I get home, bleed the coolant, and to get the air out? Try to start the car again, and I got a crank, no start? Any suggestions? I did spin the engine by hand, twice to be sure about the marks? Now I’m in the process of taking it all apart again, to try and figure out, what went wrong? My mechanic buddy told me to replace the crankshaft sensor, I did, and still no start? Any help would be appreciated? Thank you?
Shouldn't everything be TDC already unless the belt fails ? I'm curious because I have to replace my Harmonic Balancer I already have the New one but I'm waiting to do it till I have the Water Pump Kit that includes Timing Belt , Pulley and Water Pump and Seal.
+Rob P yes as long as you set it to tdc the harmonic balancer has no timing reference marks on it. so it must be removed along with the engine covers for the timing belt before you can set your timing marks to tdc. after setting your timing marks you can carefully proceed with the timing belt replacement
I'm stuck I got it all apart and noticed my belt was about 100 miles till it would break and at TDC the cams were inside the marks but slightly off so I took off the belt and slightly moved them back to the ideal spots But once I get the New belt on theres still Slack between the crank and left cam is that right the tensioner pin has not been pulled
Hi. There is no key on the harmonic balancer. How do you know it is on the right way?
You don’t have to remove it
You can work best around without covers in place
It’s a bit harder but not impossible
What's that slot on the tensioner for????
So my timing belt broke on am 07 charger 3.5 high output would so I tried to line up the marks on the camshaft and like a spring it flung not sure how many times on each side any suggestions on what I need to do to properly time everything
make sure number 1 piston is as TDC when your crank mark is lined up. if your piston is not at TDC then your crank is 180 degrees out and needs to be rotated. then line up marks and install belt
So I can stick a screwdriver in cylinder 1 and on the compression stroke put it to tdc what about the other side is it the same procedure for cylinder 2
engine timing is based off cylinder 1. put a screwdriver in the hole make sure the piston is at the top with your timing marks lined up and put the belt on
@@billgoatgarage thank you someone told me I had to adjust the camshaft from under the valve cover so really all I need to do is adjust the crankshaft till cylinder 1 is back at tdc at compression and line the crank shaft mark and the camshaft marks to the mark on the cover and replace the belt
yes and as long as you don't have engine damage it should work. if the pistons hit the valves you will need to pull the cylinder heads or replace the engine
WOW.........now I know why you only got 2.8K subscribers. Don't need all that language to describe what you do.
listen man I'm a real tech doing real repairs in the real world not a staged youtube world, I slipped up once or twice in this video my bad. with all the stuff wrong in the world today a little f bomb is not going to hurt anybody. go back to your padded room and get off my channel with your negativity this has helped out hundreds of people and will continue to help out hundreds more. have a great day!
Hi good morning I have a 1995 Dodge intrepid ES car overheated so I took to mechanic he says water pump and timing belt needs to be replaced . He called me and tells me he can’t do job because he can’t get a certain bolt out so he won’t do job now what I am going to do ?
What tool do you use to remove the harmonic balancer? Do you remember the part number?
I do not remember I went to my local auto parts store and rented the Chrysler harmonic balancer puller
What direction to spin the motor?
clockwise
I think I have done something wrong. Somewhere in trying to get the belt rite it started slipping. Now when I get the crank to TDC the camshaft line up and turn 1 full turn back to TDC both my marks on the camshaft are pointing at 6 o'clock.
it takes 2 rotations of the crankshaft to line up the camshaft again. the crank does 2 rotations and the camshaft only does 1 rotation.
@@billgoatgarage Man what a scare that's what happened LOL
My wife has a 2000 Chrysler 300M Euro model she broke the timing belt at over 70 and second gear with the auto stick no valves were hurt no Pistons were hurt I replaced the timing belt and the thing runs like it was brand new like a ran every day before that but my wife has a Euro model they make four different models of the Chrysler 300 m
The 3.5 is commonly referred to as a non-contact engine. Meaning that if the timing belt breaks the valves will not come into contact with the pistons.
There are 2 different 3.5L Chrysler engines. 1st Gen 1993 - 1998. 2nd Gen 1998 - 2010. 2nd Gen 3.5L Chrysler engines are indeed interference engines. If the belt breaks in one of those, you lost the engine. The engine in this video is 1st Gen as it's alternator & power steering pump are on the opposite sides of a 2nd Gen 3.5L
Mike R generally at what mileage should you get the belt replaced ?
@@MR-nz5pg GOAT Garage said that the year was 2000 something. It's a 300M by looking at the grill and has to be at least a 1999 and as late as 2004.
you are correct this is a 2000 300m with the second generation engine. and it is 100% a interference engine and this timing belt replacement is the same for any 3.5 regardless what generation engine it is
I have a 2003 300 with an obvious belt issue. Still have compression on the left 3 cylinders,"looking from front", but no compression on right 3 cylinders. Do I have a broken camshaft on right side?? Plz say no. I am not a mechanic, and only checked compression in front 2, left and right cylinders. The car was running but erratic jumping at 25 mph for 2 miles until I got home, then idled a little rough for 5 minutes before it stalled, and won't restart. How is it possible to have compression on one side and not the other?? Plz tell me that can be caused by something other than a bad crankshaft. I'm poor.
👍👍
I just did mine and my idle pulley was beyond trashed but it ran until the water pump locked up!
you probably shredded the belt and it probably got all caught up around the water pump. when that happens it's a good idea to change water pump to well you are there
My chrysler 300m is having over heating problems it starts and ryns fine takes about 25 mins to get half way on temp gauge then humps to H in about 5 min. Rafiator fluid then starts gushing out from under my harmonic balancer
U can remove pin either way easy way cause when u put bolt in bring tensioner much to belt will be tight why u tight bolt in place 😆
Alot of the coolants today are mixable. Only if it says on the jug though
Bet ya believe ethanol is good for your engine too ?
Great video, no need to talk like a mechanic though. I have a dirty mouth too, but durring an instructional video its kind of cheap. Clean it up and you got a 10.
I cannot understand why the designers don't make the timing cover removable without removing the balancer.
it is because the world is not flat.
I have a 99 LHS with this engine and I owned a 96 New Yorker with essentially the same engine...I've done this job 5 times and NEVER removed the balancer. The timing cover is a two-piece design with 10mm bolts that can be accessed through the balancer simply by rotating it to allow your socket to reach them. Even the 15mm roller tensioner nut can be reached the same way. Admittedly, removing the balancer does provide a clearer line of sight and more direct access but it's worth it to leave it on and avoid that struggle in my opinion. The belt can be worked off quite easily and the new one worked back in (an occasional roll of the balancer actually helps guide the old belt out and the new one in!!) This saves time and even money in some cases!! Just my two cents!!
My timing is off by 5 teeth how would i get it back on timing? Thanks in advance
You'll have to release the tensioner and reposition the belt.
trackerrrr thanks and i forgot i have a question i was replacing my water pump on my 2002 dodge intrepid 3.5l and as i got to the timing i saw the even side it was off 2 teeths so i was trying to move the timing gear less then a inch but i ended up moving it over so now its 8 teeths off timing, any thoughts how to get it back on timing?
trackerrrr i touched the driver side cam shaft
Just turn the camshaft back so the timing marks line up. The cam will shift a bit due to valve spring pressure.
Mechanic speaking to another mechanic honestly are these 3.5L Chrysler engine's interference engines and mine is in a 04 dodge intrepid with that same particular engine I was told these engines are interference engines because my timing belt busted on me and wasn't sure so a mechanic told me that problem and I see two different saying on the internet and from another mechanic so I don't know honestly 🤷♂️🤔
yes they are interference engines. however sometimes during belt breakage you get lucky and the valve train comes to rest in a non interference position. you will need to have a new belt installed and then check for engine damage. I have seen these engines break belts and be okay and I have seen them break belts and be fooked.
@@billgoatgarage awesome that's what I needed to know but like you mentioned have a good Look at it if any damage that I'll have a look into for sure I just needed to make sure before I make any moves into pulling it out I just might have to have the head gaskets changed anyways once if nothing is too major or no damage
if you're going to be pulling the heads anyways I would have the valves and valveseats done at a local machine shop
@@billgoatgarage is that if there damaged or not damaged 🤔🤷♂️ because just so you'll know I was gonna get replacement heads from another 3.5L v6 if that was the problem that was just my idea how I could fix that situation
Good video but no matter how much confidence you have in yourself you should always check it twice especially if you’re working on somebody else’s vehicle so it doesn’t get messed up
Mistake number 1, never use the orange coolant in ANY vehicles unless you want to have your engine to corrode from the inside. Even if a dumb manufacturer tells you to use the orange coolant, DON’T!!!!
Should have done the cam and crank seals why you were in there, crank seal at least as that one will blow out. They will leak eventually.
My dad is been a mechanic for 29 years and I bought a 2002 Dodge intrepid ES and my dad is too scared to change the water pump
I have a 2002 Intrepid 3.5.
For the life of me I cannot find a single video that goes into setting the timing back onto the number 1 cylinder correctly.
Most people don't change their timing belt like it's a scheduled oil change, they change it after something breaks like the tensioner pulley thus causing you to lose timing.
Simply moving the pulleys onto the marks where it happened to fail isn't the correct procedure as the crank could be sitting on the no 4 cylinder 180 degrees out. Doesn't one need to crank everything around to the no1 cylinder landing on the compression stroke and THEN set your marks??
That's how I've always done it on any engine as I was trained that way. Did something change on today's engines where this isn't necessary?
For that matter you could be setting your marks on any of the 4 cycles i.e. the exhaust stroke.
Not to mention the "high output" 3.5 engine is an interference engine and valves could be bent and need to be ruled out before building it back up.
it's very simple. the crank rotates twice to every 1 rotation of the camshafts. if you are confident with the positioning of the crank in relationship to the camshafts then just line up Mark's and put on belt. if you are unsure where the crank is then you must at the very minimum pull the number one spark plug and stick a screwdriver into the hole so you can verify the number 1 piston is at tdc before putting on your belt. if the piston is not at tdc then the crankshaft is 180 degrees out. (you can spin the crankshaft around to correct this however you MUST insure the camshafts are in a neutral position to not have valve to piston contact. once you are timed properly reassemble and then you can see if you have bent any valves)
words of wisdom if the belt broke when engine was running then she's probably bent. if the tensioner went sideways and slacked the belt but did not break you are most likely not bent yet
300m dude
Effen F I hate when people call it a 300.
Who Else is Here Because Their Tensioner Pulley/Bearing Crapped Out? ...... My (Pulley/Bearing) Shredded and Was Sounding Like a Bad Water Pump. I didn't Run it for Long after I Noticed The Rattle.
that's a common failure in these engines as I stated in my video that usually the tensioner bearing fails and the engine doesn't start.
@@billgoatgarage Well, Mine never failed to start, It ran just with a nasty Rattling Noise. I've had 3 of these engines (and still do) this is the first time it happened to Me... That Pulley/Bearing was the last thing I suspected until I went behind there.. Anyway, Just finished fixing it like 2 Days Ago, and she's running Smoother & better than ever... Only Now, Just waiting again for the next thing that'll break to keep Me getting dirty with Her. 😤
Another video not showing everything. Ffs
Sat down with my kid to learn how to do a water pump on the 3.5 H.O. Everything's going great until the guy drops a disgusting word or two that I would rather not have my kid watch/hear. Making a note of this channel and avoiding in the future. Thanks for the info but no thanks for fouling it up, literally. Moving on to the next option.
Wineman Dinem Go back to ur safe space, liberal. Political correctness bullshit...
I thought mostly all engines after 2004 or so had timing chains Im really surprised that mopar would take a step backwards with crappy timing belt setups. WOW But then again mopar has declined in value a lot over the years since they sold out to different owners Im glad I saw this video I now know Im never going to buy any mopar with this POS engine.
, how about the crankshaft screw dum dum you forgot about it again you just hold on need to take out the crankshaft screw you forgot about it again