Which BMS? Daly vs. Overkill vs. 123 BMS
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2022
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Welcome to our channel! We’re excited to get into this with you guys and share some of our journey and knowledge of custom van conversions & Offgrid Power.
We get so many comments from people saying stuff like "why do you use Daly" or "why not use another BMS"? So in this video, I'm going to be talking through some of the points to note when it comes to choosing different BMS. Which are better than others and what we prefer.
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I really want to see a table listing features of different bms. With explanation why some features matter.
thanks for your video. my Daly BMS was working perfect. it was first time connected , I unplugged wires some reason it looks needs wake-up again. but I don't how.
You could also just use a solenoid for higher amp draws that will just shut off if the BMS turns it off.
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Hi thanks for all the information. I'm building my battery and just wanted to know how do you size the BMS and can you top charge the batteries with a car charger thanks.
I started with Daly BMS's and have replaced them all with either JK or JBD. The Daly products were harder to work with and more expensive for any given size.
Hi, I have a 100amps 8s overkil solar bms. I'm wondering if I can UP the settings to allow125 amps draw because of the electric kettle... the bms actually rated at 100amps but I'm thinking if I put in a fan for cooling it might be alright. What do you think? Yay or Nay? ..
Yes please recomend a bms for my leaf cells please. Id buy several if needed and would be happy to have a safe battery as i dont have a bms at all at the moment
I would use the JK BMS.
So far I’m very happy with my JK BMS with active balancing
Nice. Sounds good.
I have one JK (JacKass??) of 200A,and the balance i never needed, it does nothing at higher Amps of charge or discharge(30 or 40 Amps) i keep it off all the time in the hope of avoiding failure,but
The damm JK bms broke down,the Bluetooth no longer works after only 351 days; JK does not even answer my emails;
it still works,i think,but blindly now, nothing on the phone,tried everything; it started giving out different signals and the next day, nothing;
So,i will have to get another bms,never again jk
but i guess otheres won't be much better..
At least this time i will get one with an external BT module,that is for sure.
excellent video, congratulations. It inspired me to build mine. But I have a question, if in charging the bms receives a load above the maximum, what happens? for example it can charge 100a and receive 150a. Does it charge the 100a and ignore the remaining 50, or does it shut off and charge nothing or does it burn out?
Although Daly would not officially confirm this, the BMS do have some threshold for exceeding the capacity. We have tested a number of them, pushing them beyond their capacity, and they have performed fine. Obviously most warranties and guarantees are void if you do so, so probably not recommended.
The spec sheet will often list when the overcurrent protection kicks in on the charge side. It will not take 100 and ignore the other 50. Most often you’ll see a 20% overrating before the protection kicks in but this varies between manufacturers. 150A will likely trigger the protection on a model rated for 100A charging so it will cut off the current from getting to the battery
Hi I Use an Daly 4S with 200A and i have the Problem that BMS did not registered Amperes under 2A out and in
Hey guys i like your channel
I have purchased two tesla modules and wired them in series to make a 12s 48v battery I'm charging them with a 80amp mppt solar system
What have you guys got for sale that can act as my bms
Many thanks John
my problme with the daly bms is, that is doesn't recognize currents below 1A.
But because all the time, i have some standby currents, which the bms doesn't count in, the charge state isn't correct most of the time.
Last week it said 40%, I didn't check the cell voltages, and the BMS cut off the load because one cell was too low, at 2,5V. the others where at 2,8V, so pretty low as well. The BMS still said 37%.
Is there a way to fix that problem, or is an other BMS better for this?
Great video and contents as always, but the thing you said about the 123 BMS it's actually incorrect, it can handle higher amps than just 100...I've a Gen3 with current sensors that measure up to 500 amps, just to be sure before installing it on my pack, I've double checked with my supplier (GWL), after watching your video, and a guy from the tech support confirmed that the BMS can handle even 150/200amps easy, so I can run my induction cooktop with no dramas at all. I've been reading again the entire manual, websites ect...no mention at all about what you stated in this video. Saying that, love your work, keep going! Your channel helped me a lot with my project 😉
You have run that much current for an extended time? Why would the manufacturer not rate it higher for vastly more sales? Makes no sense.
Mate...first of all, would you really think that a major company would lie to a customer (writing everything in registered and official e-mails) on such topics which includes healt and safety matters, just to sell a few more units? Secondly, go through every single information you can find on the internet (123 smart BMS manual for instance) and, please, tell me where you can find the info stated in this video (BMS rated for 100amps).
Third, what on earth is the point of supplying a 500 amps current sensors with a 100amps rated BMS? (That would really make no sense at all)
And last but not least, I'm using it pulling 150/200amps ish each time I cook or heat the water in my van....so....I'm still alive and nothing blew up......not yet 😅
Saying that, I didn't write those things to show off or making these people look dumb..I really love their work and this youtube channel, which helped me a lot with my project, so I honestly think it'd be a shame if they might give incorrect informations to their followers. Peace ✌🏻
@@simonecristiano637 yeah but isnt it more a seperate contactor so then you could run it with 5.000 amps if you really wanted it./hook up multiple togheter
I need a bms for 24 leaf modules in a 24 volt configuration. Its two stacks of 12 modules. I actually need a bms for each stack of 12. I figure q 6s bms is what i need and its powering a 4000 watt inverter
A JK BMS would be ideal.
What amp rate do you charge your batteries for optimum balancing?
Doesn't matter too much, but probably around 10-15A for the best results.
Have you ever tested the REC bms?
No, but we should! Do you use them? Do you have a link to one you think we should test?
I like the jbd they go up to 200a and the new jk bms also have 200a are good also.
I’ve always used Daly until there after sales support. They have standard response it’s your fault.
I use to install 100 Daly bms a month, never again .
Thanks Michael. Yeah, Daly's customer service is definitely lacking.
@@offgrid_power They are terrible, They have two responses 20% off your next one or send it back I’ll have a look at it and send it back to me at my cost. Last year I bought over 1200 bms from them last year. Only had a problem with 3 of them but , there right your wrong. I sent the bms away just to see what was wrong with it turns out a resistor was missing from the negative cable inside the BMs.
Yes ..Daly does NOT look after its customers- Period ..So disappointing 🤬
please help me size the BMS. I have 16 EVE 280 aH cells in series to make a 48 v battery, Is a 200A big enough?
If the power watt of inverter is within 6500W ,200A is enough
Thanks for the reply. I went with a 250 a since I have a 10.2 k inverter with a 40 a breaker ( 8800 w) on the output to avoid overload . I also put a 160 amp battery breaker in line.@@AWarrior-bms
If it works well?@@dashley2525
Jk is my favorite
Nice! ☺️
Be careful using JK BMS ..
If you are turning your LIFEPO4 system off for a few or more days they sometimes revert back to the units default specs ..This default ( apparently) is a Li-on profile with a 4.2v per cell threshold... and not the safe 3.6v cell threshold..
Don't take my word for it .. look it up to confirm this heads up warning .
I have four headway 40152 cells, 15ah. I plan to make a small portable pack for my dometic refrigerator. I will only need about 5 amps of discharge or charging current, but i think the 30 amp daly will be best because i can get the bluetooth version and customize it. Is there any other options for as much customization as the daly with bluetooth but in a bms in 5 to 10 amp area?
Specifically cell maximum and minimum voltages. I prefer to not use the full 100 percent capacity and extend the lifepan by using lower maximum and higher minimum voltage for this specific build.
123bms คุณมีเอกสารข้อบ่งชี้หรือมีลิ้งค์สำหรับข้อมูล มันให้กระแสผ่าน 100 amp.
If you look on the 123 BMS website, I’m sure it’s clear that it’s covered.
@@offgrid_power Sorry, I really can't find it, can you send me the link?
Hello, did you have an idea why daly bms shows min temp. 215 C and max temp. -40 C on PC Monitor Software ? Sometimes it works somtimes the chg Mos don't turn on and it is not working to turn him on manual, i came slowly to the conclusion daly is a bullshit bms......
OVERKILL ARE GOOD BUT ONLY GO UP TO 120 AMP AND THEIR SOFTWARE IS A PAIN IN THE ASS . DALY WORK UNTIL THEY DON'T ,IT IS JUST A MATTER OF WHEN ?
YOU CAN USE AN ACTIVE BAANCER WITH A DALY BMS.IT WORKS FINE.
Thanks for the comment, David.
Are you South African?
I am indeed. :)
Don't compare the price it is irrelevant. :)))
Depends on the buyer. ;)
Daly BMS? Don't!!! Full of bugs f/W and almost no support coz they are overloaded with problems, look for smth better...