Material List (per 2m[6.6 ft] truss totem) 57" of 1/2" Conduit Pipe amzn.to/2WkyRLp 2x Metal Electrical Double Box amzn.to/2WijJyg 2x Metal Quad Outlet Face Plate amzn.to/3bZxybg 1x Metal Electrical Single Box amzn.to/35rY3np 1x Metal Double Outlet Face Plate amzn.to/2KSGl2V 5x Outlets amzn.to/3dbrhcU 4x 1/2" Off Set Connectors amzn.to/35qcN63 1x 1/2" Cable Squeeze Connector amzn.to/2z09TZM 8' of THHN electrical wire amzn.to/3erCbMg 10' Appliance cable amzn.to/2xq1iPw 5x 3" Hose Clamps amzn.to/3aUKEFr Key Tools Electrical Outlet Tester amzn.to/2KW5TMt Wire Strippers amzn.to/3ffiJU0 👕 DJ LIFE CLOTHING (My Brand) shopdjlife.com/ 📲Need advice or just want to pick my brain for an hour? calendly.com/djrickweb/letstalk
This is nice. Kudos to you for being humble enough to take the feedback from someone and even post a video about wanting to correct a previous video. Too many guys would be too proud to listen much less do anything about it. Nice work!
If you are watching this and planning to try it, please put the hook of the wire (Rick's words) on the srcew the opposite way he did. The open end of the hook should be on the right side of the screw when you look at it from the side with the plug face pointing up. Great Idea Rick!
Love this. I’m planning on doing a similar setup. But there are a few things I would like to add if following this tutorial. I am not a certified electrician but I do know a little bit so take my advice with a grain of salt. 1 using metal boxes and metal conduit they way that these work in the case of a failure is that when wiring the neutral can go bad and or the hot can touch the box which would result in the entire system becoming hot (conduit boxes and truss). Outlets are meant to ground to the box as a fail safe. 2 ways to help this would be 1 add insulation/rubber padding between conduit and truss 2 add a gfci outlet at the start of power (preferably in the legs so that it is accessible during event or use inline protection if running into wall outlet) Next thing I would add would be pass through power meaning I would run 3 lines of power in the conduit so that I can have a total of 3 circuits running up each leg Also really liked the idea of using power con connections. And jumpers which would make this build look very clean and no dangling wires in storage to prevent damage to the wiring
Power con are pricey but I make all my cords. I buy replacement wire and add the power con on the stripped side. Takes less then 2 min per cord. Definitely a big money saver
Nice setup brother. This ,is something Im definitely going to do as I use my trussing mainly for stage lighting, etc. 4 trusses connected horizontally and lifted with heavy crank stands at each end. I set up a mix of lights. ADJ Pars, crazy 8's, moving heads etc. and there is always a host of power cables running through truss. Having a setup like yours at each end will make it much more convenient and aesthetically pleasing !
Good! some things are still off like the gap between the EMT and the truss - like that other guy said, a bender would make that issue go away since you can make your own offset with whatever bend height you need; but with that being said it’s probably not going to be an issue. Thank you for securing the boxes!
DJ Rick Web in this version theres gonna be little to no movement. there’s so many restrictions with the entertainment industry that its sort of ridiculous, like you’re really not supposed to have boxes with knockouts in mobile use since they can get punched out and all kinds of other crap, it’s a little over the top. but things like securing boxes are a must so i’m glad you did that since now it’s rock solid. all the other restrictions are abstract and that would truly be picky. just like the people who complain that others use 20 amp wire and circuit breakers with 15amp receptacles... yeah you’re “supposed to match the receptacles, wire, and breaker” but if you’re only putting 15 amp sockets on 20 amp wires and breakers; then it’s like... okay... it doesn’t matter lol
Great video! I'm almost ready to try it now. Now if only this could be a thing for DMX! I mean, I guess one could set up a DMX distribution amp at the bottom and run cables up to different outlet boxes with Neutrik XLR connectors in them. Do you think it would congest the space too much?
@@DJRickWeb you are right, wireless is pretty nice too. I always hesitate to go fully wireless if I can run a cable though. I am slow to trust wireless to get me through an event without problems.
Rikk insulate the outlets with some black electrical tape. If any of those wires come lose you are going to have a mini explosion and trip a few beakers also put the wires in the outlets so that the small hook faces to the right so when you tighten them up they won’t get lose.
Incoming all internet "electricians"... jk, all of this is okay but just one main tip: on your first box you can just have your incoming ground wire terminate at the ground screw and then the rest of the system is grounded. Per most electrical codes, EMT conduit and metal boxes are all acceptable grounding conductors, and outlets attached to them are grounded. Other than that, if you're feeling adventurous, buy or borrow an EMT bender and try making those offsets on your own :) bending conduit can become addicting
I’d say since it is going to be moving a lot it’s better to have grounding on each box rather than rely on EMT, where in a fixed install nothing ever moves and it’s set unless the EMT is removed or damaged
if I'm honest, if this works for you then great but I reckon it would be a lot easier to buy a gray cable, and use gray cable ties to tie it to the truss Also the comments are correct, the hook needs to face the direction of the termination screw
It will work yes but as pointed out UK conduit has to be threaded so unless you had like 7 or more to do it may not be cost effective as last time I looked a threading tool is about 30 ish pound
Andin Briwel - Not necessarily, you could plug in low draw appliances. That 14/3 wire can handles 15 amps. If moving heads/wash/pars take 1-2 amps each, and you’re careful, you shouldn’t have any problems. Plus, the circuit breaker should trip before you melt wires (if it’s 15 amps as his 10ft extension cord can’t handle 20.) His setup, is essentially a non temporary (permanent) power strip which we all know makes life 100 times easier. You can’t say his setup and devices like power strips are automatically fire hazards. When you know what you’re doing (and Mr. Web does) and you’re smart, there’s no issue.
DJ Rick Web - Haha thanks! I’m 14 yrs. old tomorrow and I am apart of the “Sound Technician” group at my Church. I also livestream the Mass. Our amp rack is pretty interesting with 8 power amps (Crest Audio and TOA) along with a DBX DriveRack 260, and a 32 channel concert series Carvin mixer. (Along with a lot more signal processors, delays, etc.) Oh, and also a cassette deck 😂. I really enjoy your videos and your setups are great! Stay safe
Great idea bro! I personally would have moved that bottom one up a bit. What if you want to up-light the truss? Will an uplight fit in the bottom with that outlet there?
Couple things still wrong/against code. You can’t feed 12 gauge cable with 14. You put your “hooks” (as you say) on the wrong side of the screw. Putting them like you did causes them to push away from the screw, causing a loose/weak connection.
You can absolutely feed a 14g wire with a 12g wire so long as they are only ever connected to a 15a circuit.....you can also feed 12g wire with 14g wire so long as they are only ever connected to a 15a circuit.
That's not against code. That's just being picky. Also my hooks are going the right direction according to the instructions that came with the plug sooo not sure about that one.
@@DJRickWeb the only thing he's right about is the hooks....while you're right it is not against code, the open part of the hook should be facing the same direction you turn the screw in....this will help close the hook as you tighten it....but this is 100% fine the way you did it, so long as the wire isn't loose, and no strands are sticking out.
Your “tap” conductor is the the 12 gauge wire you used to connect the outlets together. Your “service” conductor is the 14 gauge cable/plug. Your ampacity of your tap conductor cannot exceed the ampacity of your service conductor.
So that's wrong....you cannot connect a 15a circuit to a 20a circuit, but you can absolutely connect a 12g wire to a 14g wire if they are both being used on a 15a circuit.
Like when in the world is that going to be pulling even close to 10 amps of power. And I guarantee 90% the buildings I plug into are running 14 gauge power cable in the walls.
@@MatthewJHupp you can say it as many times as you want..You're still 100% wrong..the nfpa also disagrees. Please site code instead of repeating yourself.....im a licensed journeyman electrician, and licensed gc, please state your credentials....
Totally missed one major step on the proper way of inserting the wires and insulating the outlets. If any one wire gets lose you’re going to seriously hurt yourself, destroy expensive equipment and get electrocuted.
Metal conduit and boxes on metal truss, wire rubs through and you've electrified the truss itself, all it takes is someone to grab the truss and then you have a lawsuit.
Material List (per 2m[6.6 ft] truss totem)
57" of 1/2" Conduit Pipe amzn.to/2WkyRLp
2x Metal Electrical Double Box amzn.to/2WijJyg
2x Metal Quad Outlet Face Plate amzn.to/3bZxybg
1x Metal Electrical Single Box amzn.to/35rY3np
1x Metal Double Outlet Face Plate amzn.to/2KSGl2V
5x Outlets amzn.to/3dbrhcU
4x 1/2" Off Set Connectors amzn.to/35qcN63
1x 1/2" Cable Squeeze Connector amzn.to/2z09TZM
8' of THHN electrical wire amzn.to/3erCbMg
10' Appliance cable amzn.to/2xq1iPw
5x 3" Hose Clamps amzn.to/3aUKEFr
Key Tools
Electrical Outlet Tester amzn.to/2KW5TMt
Wire Strippers amzn.to/3ffiJU0
👕 DJ LIFE CLOTHING (My Brand)
shopdjlife.com/
📲Need advice or just want to pick my brain for an hour?
calendly.com/djrickweb/letstalk
This is nice. Kudos to you for being humble enough to take the feedback from someone and even post a video about wanting to correct a previous video. Too many guys would be too proud to listen much less do anything about it. Nice work!
Great Job, DJ Rick Webb! One tip: use commercial grade outlets, they are a dollar more, but will hold up better in the long run. Dank setup!
If you are watching this and planning to try it, please put the hook of the wire (Rick's words) on the srcew the opposite way he did. The open end of the hook should be on the right side of the screw when you look at it from the side with the plug face pointing up. Great Idea Rick!
I was wondering what happened to the original video. Glad you consulted a local electrician to clarify your issues. Good job! 👍🏽
Love this. I’m planning on doing a similar setup. But there are a few things I would like to add if following this tutorial. I am not a certified electrician but I do know a little bit so take my advice with a grain of salt. 1 using metal boxes and metal conduit they way that these work in the case of a failure is that when wiring the neutral can go bad and or the hot can touch the box which would result in the entire system becoming hot (conduit boxes and truss). Outlets are meant to ground to the box as a fail safe. 2 ways to help this would be
1 add insulation/rubber padding between conduit and truss
2 add a gfci outlet at the start of power (preferably in the legs so that it is accessible during event or use inline protection if running into wall outlet)
Next thing I would add would be pass through power meaning I would run 3 lines of power in the conduit so that I can have a total of 3 circuits running up each leg
Also really liked the idea of using power con connections. And jumpers which would make this build look very clean and no dangling wires in storage to prevent damage to the wiring
Power con are pricey but I make all my cords. I buy replacement wire and add the power con on the stripped side. Takes less then 2 min per cord. Definitely a big money saver
Nice setup brother. This ,is something Im definitely going to do as I use my trussing mainly for stage lighting, etc. 4 trusses connected horizontally and lifted with heavy crank stands at each end. I set up a mix of lights. ADJ Pars, crazy 8's, moving heads etc. and there is always a host of power cables running through truss. Having a setup like yours at each end will make it much more convenient and aesthetically pleasing !
Good! some things are still off like the gap between the EMT and the truss - like that other guy said, a bender would make that issue go away since you can make your own offset with whatever bend height you need; but with that being said it’s probably not going to be an issue. Thank you for securing the boxes!
Thanks for at least realizing it's not gonna be an issue unless your an idiot and abuse the rig
DJ Rick Web in this version theres gonna be little to no movement. there’s so many restrictions with the entertainment industry that its sort of ridiculous, like you’re really not supposed to have boxes with knockouts in mobile use since they can get punched out and all kinds of other crap, it’s a little over the top. but things like securing boxes are a must so i’m glad you did that since now it’s rock solid. all the other restrictions are abstract and that would truly be picky. just like the people who complain that others use 20 amp wire and circuit breakers with 15amp receptacles... yeah you’re “supposed to match the receptacles, wire, and breaker” but if you’re only putting 15 amp sockets on 20 amp wires and breakers; then it’s like... okay... it doesn’t matter lol
Great idea , would be nice to have a PowerCon to detach cable during transportation.
Wish more sparkys were Dj’s in my area.
awesome very helpful
Dude, that was phenomenal - very well done. Thank you
Dj Rick I was thinking the same I love that I’m going to do that it makes everything quick an easy to connect. Good job!!
Hey, I can't afford totem. Would you suggest putting moving heads on speakers? Not sure where else but would it look tacky or out of place?
I used to do it with my smaller wash movers. Dive back in my gig logs you'll see it
All good! lol just a not very safe way to use a reciprocating saw :P hahahaha 9:09
I saw that, and had to pause the video in disbelief.
I was like I know this cant be how it works but was curious if it would work
This is a very good build idea! Can't wait to do it. Thanks.
Genius!!!
Great video! I'm almost ready to try it now.
Now if only this could be a thing for DMX!
I mean, I guess one could set up a DMX distribution amp at the bottom and run cables up to different outlet boxes with Neutrik XLR connectors in them. Do you think it would congest the space too much?
I prefer to just plug in wireless dmx receivers. But it could work
@@DJRickWeb you are right, wireless is pretty nice too.
I always hesitate to go fully wireless if I can run a cable though. I am slow to trust wireless to get me through an event without problems.
Nice tutorial bro, hope u put a new video about one event using this truss how they work out 5 starts bro. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Yes yes dj Rick web. Love it as usual great video very useful info thank you
Rikk insulate the outlets with some black electrical tape. If any of those wires come lose you are going to have a mini explosion and trip a few beakers also put the wires in the outlets so that the small hook faces to the right so when you tighten them up they won’t get lose.
excellent tips and tutorials rick thanks
Awesome video Rick!!
Ty for this video
Incoming all internet "electricians"...
jk, all of this is okay but just one main tip: on your first box you can just have your incoming ground wire terminate at the ground screw and then the rest of the system is grounded. Per most electrical codes, EMT conduit and metal boxes are all acceptable grounding conductors, and outlets attached to them are grounded. Other than that, if you're feeling adventurous, buy or borrow an EMT bender and try making those offsets on your own :) bending conduit can become addicting
I’d say since it is going to be moving a lot it’s better to have grounding on each box rather than rely on EMT, where in a fixed install nothing ever moves and it’s set unless the EMT is removed or damaged
@@Aaronproductions lmao. Didn't know you were into DJing also lol
if I'm honest, if this works for you then great
but I reckon it would be a lot easier to buy a gray cable, and use gray cable ties to tie it to the truss
Also the comments are correct, the hook needs to face the direction of the termination screw
great idea
I just ran the electrical cable inside the truss .. works better and easier to install.
If you tack weld the electrical outlets into the todems then if you need to do any maintenance on the outlets it makes it very hard.
Exactly why I am waiting to see if this works correctly then maybe I'll do that
Hey you can run a power strip and use a quad tele viper connector into conduit capacitor
😍 eyyyyy
What was the cord you used before this install?
Just a power strip
@@DJRickWeb it had multiple outlets along the strip. It was in the video of your garage tour.
will this work in the UK? (obviously using UK sockets)
Idk
It will work yes but as pointed out UK conduit has to be threaded so unless you had like 7 or more to do it may not be cost effective as last time I looked a threading tool is about 30 ish pound
What was wrong with the old video? What did you do wrong?
My wiring method while it worked wasnt technically correct.
Dangerously Overloaded circuits. Fire risk is real.
Andin Briwel - Not necessarily, you could plug in low draw appliances. That 14/3 wire can handles 15 amps. If moving heads/wash/pars take 1-2 amps each, and you’re careful, you shouldn’t have any problems. Plus, the circuit breaker should trip before you melt wires (if it’s 15 amps as his 10ft extension cord can’t handle 20.) His setup, is essentially a non temporary (permanent) power strip which we all know makes life 100 times easier. You can’t say his setup and devices like power strips are automatically fire hazards. When you know what you’re doing (and Mr. Web does) and you’re smart, there’s no issue.
Finally someone with logical thinking
DJ Rick Web - Haha thanks! I’m 14 yrs. old tomorrow and I am apart of the “Sound Technician” group at my Church. I also livestream the Mass. Our amp rack is pretty interesting with 8 power amps (Crest Audio and TOA) along with a DBX DriveRack 260, and a 32 channel concert series Carvin mixer. (Along with a lot more signal processors, delays, etc.) Oh, and also a cassette deck 😂. I really enjoy your videos and your setups are great! Stay safe
I already saw this video uploaded.....by you? Was it a shorter version or something?
I explain 1 minute in I had to remake the whole video
DJ Rick Web ahh apologies Rick, I just saw it, went. “I’ve seen this” and went to sleep
Compared to European and Australian Electrical outlets, US connections are very very old-fashioned.
UK 240v is way harder 😂
I mean
powercon in + out with a dmx in + out box at the bottom
and the exact same at the top
bingo
(Or even better, tru-1)
Great idea bro! I personally would have moved that bottom one up a bit. What if you want to up-light the truss? Will an uplight fit in the bottom with that outlet there?
I want to do this but, man seem kinda complicated. I’m scared I’ll mess something up and the place catches fire lol
Hire an electrician to do it then
What happing to a Circuit breaker in between all that
What?
When is this weeks vid?
what did you do wrong in the first version, i would like to know what not to do
Used Romex cable
The book on electrical code is the National Electrical Code Book. It is the book, not 2nd hand info.
I was more getting crap for stuff that is good by the book but perfectionists are against.
Like that you show your mistakes.
Couple things still wrong/against code. You can’t feed 12 gauge cable with 14. You put your “hooks” (as you say) on the wrong side of the screw. Putting them like you did causes them to push away from the screw, causing a loose/weak connection.
You can absolutely feed a 14g wire with a 12g wire so long as they are only ever connected to a 15a circuit.....you can also feed 12g wire with 14g wire so long as they are only ever connected to a 15a circuit.
That's not against code. That's just being picky. Also my hooks are going the right direction according to the instructions that came with the plug sooo not sure about that one.
@@DJRickWeb the only thing he's right about is the hooks....while you're right it is not against code, the open part of the hook should be facing the same direction you turn the screw in....this will help close the hook as you tighten it....but this is 100% fine the way you did it, so long as the wire isn't loose, and no strands are sticking out.
Your “tap” conductor is the the 12 gauge wire you used to connect the outlets together. Your “service” conductor is the 14 gauge cable/plug. Your ampacity of your tap conductor cannot exceed the ampacity of your service conductor.
@@mattkoser you are still not correct. Sorry. Again site code, or stop repeating it.
Anybody got a count on how many times he said the word "basically" in this video..?
Try "alright" that is worse
If you did this correctly, why do the power outlets look so surprised?
Hahaha l... fkn a, I'm bout ta build me some shiiiit....sons... where versa tech working right now? Hold up...
Is it me, or did we not already see this video?
It’s a different version
Quit saying basically
Hi Rick. One thing you can not use 12 gauge wire to 14 gauge wire
So that's wrong....you cannot connect a 15a circuit to a 20a circuit, but you can absolutely connect a 12g wire to a 14g wire if they are both being used on a 15a circuit.
The plug should have been 20 amp
If he's plugging it into a 15a outlet, having a 20a outlet on his truss is pointless........
@@littlecncshop you can not mix 12 gauge wire with 14 gauge wire
Like when in the world is that going to be pulling even close to 10 amps of power. And I guarantee 90% the buildings I plug into are running 14 gauge power cable in the walls.
When are you ever going to pull over 10 amps... even in my bigger setups I have only got to 13 amps for 6 movers and 15 pars.
@@MatthewJHupp you can say it as many times as you want..You're still 100% wrong..the nfpa also disagrees. Please site code instead of repeating yourself.....im a licensed journeyman electrician, and licensed gc, please state your credentials....
Forgetting code, it makes no common sense to feed 12 gauge wire with a 14 gauge extension. Just use a 12 gauge extension for consistency and safety.
Totally missed one major step on the proper way of inserting the wires and insulating the outlets. If any one wire gets lose you’re going to seriously hurt yourself, destroy expensive equipment and get electrocuted.
Metal conduit and boxes on metal truss, wire rubs through and you've electrified the truss itself, all it takes is someone to grab the truss and then you have a lawsuit.
Lol it's all grounded. And this is common practice take a look at all the metal appliances in your house.
i thought white was ground ??? thats how i was teached
Never... white is neutral