EP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf Leather
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it.
www.ashlandlea...
www.horween.com/
linktr.ee/full...
Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. ashlandleather...
The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. www.horween.com/
linktr.ee/full...
email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com
Support the show: www.buzzsprout...
Been wearing a JTF in the 1940s calf this month and it’s definitely a leather you want to experience before it’s extinct.
I have so much brainrot that I found the vintage ad for the bark tanned calf hilarious to look at.
Love 1940s calf
It’s kind of difficult to choose between the 1940s and shell. It seems like cordovan’s softness and shine can’t be beat. Yet the calfskin would be thinner and probably still relatively nice.
History!! So good!
Time for a second listen 🔥
I have a nice collection of it. I have a Fat Herbie w/ Hidden Card Slots, A Vertical Tony the Ant, a Bugs Moran with an external card slot, a Machine Gun Jack, and a 6 Slot Frank the Enforcer
You were wrong you could take some scraps of the leather have a broken down tested for its molecular components in a laboratory and give the director some basic information and they'll be able to tell you some of the stuff that's in there
Due to the history of water in Belgium, I'd drink the beer instead. Through most of Europe's history the water was bad and not drinkable. It was safer to drink the beer due to boiling the water during the brewing process. Today with modern sanitary practices the water is safe, but the beer is what I would go for.
If i remember correctly the reindeer leather is a reproduction. I was under the impression they found papers from the original manufacturer and were able to reproduce/guesstimate the leather
Its probably a tanning process.
Calf leather makes me somewhat uncomfortable as it is sourced from young (~6 month old animals) and I don’t understand veal/dairy farming well. Might be somewhat controversial, but are you able to explain how these food pathways tie into the production of calf leather? You’ve alluded to the differences in how animals are raised in Europe vs America in past episodes and also, in this episode, to the small size of the 1940s hides, but are you able to explain these differences in a little more detail? Lastly, why is calf a preferred lining in boots and how does lining leather differ in quality and production from outer leather? As always, thanks!
🙄there’s always one of you around.
@@whereRbearsTeeth thanks for your nuanced input. Why does a thin layer of paper between an insole and the cork filler in a grant stone boot bother you more than how your lining leather is sourced and produced? I’m just curious to know more about leather as a byproduct of the food industry. As I understand things currently, if you’re drinking milk and eating cheese, veal and calf leather is a byproduct of this; some number of male calves are born to dairy cows and some number of those go on to be raised for slaughter as veal. I’m not for the waste of animal products, and am interested to know more about what I’m using.
@chrislee8888 Thanks for the question, I appreciate the curiosity and the desire to look for information on something that may make you uncomfortable (and not just using the internet to reinforce your position - right or wrong). Personally, the age of the animal is not my focus. The origin of any hide was an animal, whether a calf or a steer or anything else, and the true importance lies with the ethics and responsibilities that go along with raising that animal start to finish.
Hides are byproducts of the food industry and the goal, as it has been forever, is to generate no waste. Each part of the animal can be used for something and the hide is definitely no exception. My understanding of veal production is limited, but I gather that cows produce milk while they carry calves and when these calves are born they either become dairy cows (female) or veal calves (male). Dairy and beef animals are not the same, and producing milk for the supermarket means there will be a number of calves that are born that won't/don't become beef steers and can't produce milk. On a scale basis this information points to milk production as more of a contributor to the raising of veal calves, and thus the generation of calfskin, but there is likely more to it. Again, my info is extremely incomplete and this may be the case only in certain places.
At Horween, the calfskins we received in the distant past were smaller, thinner, and cleaner (cosmetically). This would all point to hides that are currently being classified as "calfskins" in older animals than the past. Some quick USDA reading says that a calf is usually around 450 lbs (4ish months), but this can go up to 750 lbs (8ish months). I have no idea what standard practices are around much of the decisions that go into designating animals for certain things at certain times/ages, but this USDA info does support what we have seen over the years - that is, larger hides with more wrinkles, cosmetic challenges and grain. The 1940s hides are appropriately sized as far as what I would expect/like to see.
The Europe v America comparison I make I should do some more concrete reading on. Generally, my understanding is that in Europe they still adhere to more traditional definitions of age classifications. I will confess that this is a bit of an extrapolation from my chef days, with some anecdotal support... Age is not the only factor, but if you eat veal in Europe vs veal in the US it is quite different, at least to me.
Lining leather is almost always softer and thinner that leather for uppers/outers. This is really the main distinction, along with the fact that the cosmetic requirements may be a little more forgiving since it is largely unseen inside the finished shoe.
@@NickHorween Thanks for the deeply insightful and thoughtful response. The confluence of ethics, economics, culture, leather, and boots has been an interesting topic to explore for me. I hadn’t really thought too hard before about how dairy pushes the production veal and how veal calves don’t have much economic utility past 6-8 months of age. But it’s also interesting to me that beef steer in the US tend to be 18-24 months vs Kobe beef which is regulated to be 28-60 months in Japan vs the chianina cattle used in Italy for bistecca alla fiorentina which is 4-7+ years old vs the natural lifespan of ~20 years for cattle. I’d agree that respecting the animal in raising it from start to finish and utilizing the end products well is most important. Anyhow perhaps thinking too hard about this means that my personal age of economic utility has expired. Thanks again for taking the time in writing a detailed answer.
@@NickHorween Great answer and appreciate the question being asked in the first place.