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Get this man his boots!!

Tannery row has cxl horse available

"This extremely masculine scent is hot stuffed with a proprietary blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases"

I second the idea of a new CXL scent lol. Those who know would know once they smell it.

History of Tanning: It may be that the preservative effect of alum was discovered even before the vegetable tanning process, for the original Japanese white leather was made simply by steeping the raw hides in certain rivers which contained a bed-rock of alum. This primitive process is even followed to-day in one or two places in Japan, but the leather is afterwards treated with oil to impart tensile strength and increased suppleness.” The Wide Range of Hides: Among other skins useful for leather are those of the wallaby, kangaroo, dog, lizard, crocodile, alligator, ichneumon, frog (Japanese), deer, antelope, and chamois, while it is said that even rabbit skins have been pressed into service in Germany, though they cannot have much value owing to their small size and thin substance. Dog-skin leather wears well, mainly on account of the large amount of natural grease present in the skin, but the supplies are naturally small. The hides of the walrus, elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and other wild animals are also tanned in small quantities, walrus leather being well adapted for knife and sword polishing.” The mammals also contribute their quota to the supply of raw material of the leather trade, the seal perhaps, being the most important. This refers to the hairy seal hunted off the North American coast. According to an American Consular Report, the results of the fishing during the season 1913 were satisfactory. The total number of seals captured was 272,965, which were valued at £98,800. The number of skins exported was 212,285, valued at £64,300, of which the United States of America bought 151,355, the United Kingdom 60,754, and Canada 176.” “The porpoise, or sea hog, has a very useful hide which, when dressed, makes a tough leather suitable for laces. The hides of other cetaceous mammals, such as the whale and narwhal, are convertible into useful leather. The British "porpoise" laces are generally made from the skin of the white whale (beluga).”

Oak bark: In England, oak bark is harvested in April and May, when the sap rises in the tree. Rings are cut round the tree soon after it is felled and the bark is peeled from the tree with a special tool which is forced between the bark and the wood. It is peeled in narrow strips about 3 ft. in length, and on delivery to the tannery is stacked in huge ricks. If harvested in a good, dry condition, the bark is said to improve with age, although analytical tests have shown that there is always a certain loss of tannin. An old rick is much darker in colour than a new one, owing to exposure to the air. Coppice bark from young trees is preferred by tanners, as it is free from ross and generally contains more tannin than the rough bark. Oak bark, which is usually delivered to the tannery in strips measuring 3 to 6 ft. in length, must be chopped or ground into small pieces by machine (Fig.21bark_mill). A measured quantity (a certain number of baskets or skeps “full) is placed in the empty pits, which are then filled with water. The liquor is pumped from these pits, as required, to others in which the hides are tanned.” Quebracho: After felling the quebracho trees, they are cut up into logs about 4 ft. in length and either exported in this state to Hamburg, Havre, and Liverpool, or sent to the numerous factories in close proximity to the forests to be made into extract, in which an enormous trade has of late years been developed. Owing, perhaps, to faulty preparation, this tanning extract was not well received at first, but it is now among the principal tannins and increases in importance every year. Mimosa: “By far the greater proportion of mimosa bark is still exported in the natural form, ground or chopped, and packed into bags weighing about 1 cwt. each. Before the European War nearly the whole of the bark was shipped to Hamburg, English tanners taking very little interest in it, although it was largely used by German tanners. But since the supplies of the materials favoured by British tanners have become somewhat restricted, attention has been drawn to the value of mimosa bark.” Making Extract: “The processes in extract manufacture are few. The wood, bark, or fruit is broken up into small pieces and macerated in hot or cold water. The concentration of the liquid is done in vacuum, or in an evaporator. The latest method is to treat the tan liquor in a "triple-effect" evaporator (Fig. 4), the object of using three compartments being to economise in steam. This apparatus makes liquid extracts; where a powdered or crystal extract is required, the liquid is afterwards treated in a vacuum drying apparatus. Some extracts contain a lot of colouring matter and insoluble substances. To overcome this defect, they are clarified with blood albumen, sulphites, casein, or acetate of lead.”

On Machinery Developments and Labor: “so many improvements have lately been made in the construction of machinery for practically every operation in the trade that most of the machines require very little skill to work them, and can be operated by intelligent youths after a few weeks' experience.” “Leather trades machinery was not a success at first, probably because it was very difficult to get the necessary information from leather manufacturers. However, as the engineers gained more experience of the methods of leather-making, the defects were gradually remedied until it may be truly said that the machines now reach a high state of perfection. It was no uncommon thing for workmen to lose a finger or two in a machine, but such accidents are now rare, owing to improvements in the construction of the machines.” “The most important machines outside the working cylinder type are the splitter, and the glazer. There are several kinds of splitting machines, but the band-knife machine (Fig. 7) is the most largely used. This is a veritable triumph of the engineer's art, for it is possible to make five or six layers, all about the same size, out of one hide, although leather is only split once or twice as a rule. Of course, sole, belting, and other thick leathers are not usually split. The invention of the belt-knife splitting machine revolutionised the leather trade, and there would undoubtedly have been a great shortage of leather without it. Formerly, all the levelling and reducing of substance was done by paring off quite small pieces with the shaving knife (Fig. 8), a difficult and laborious work. These parings were only suitable for pulping and compressing into leather board; but now the flesh splits removed by the machine can be curried, enamelled, printed, or rolled to make serviceable leathers, although, of course, not nearly so good in quality as the top or grain split.” “Nearly every leather trades' engineer constructs shaving machines, but the Howard-Smith is described here, not because it is the most popular (unfortunately there is a decided preference for low-priced machines), but because it is one of the best from an engineering point of view. This machine consists of nearly one hundred parts and each is made of the best material available. The advantage of this is obvious when the question of repairs is fully considered. The first Howard-Smith machine made has been running more than four years, and has not cost the owner a penny for repairs “beyond, of course, the expense of replacing the blades of the working cylinders”

On Leather as a Language: “Correctly speaking, the term "tanning," used to designate the process of converting hides into leather, should be confined to the use of vegetable tannins; unfortunately, the trade has largely adopted the word in many other processes of making leather. For example, large quantities of leather are produced by the use of minerals, and especially of chrome salts; where the latter is used, the leather is said to be "chrome-tanned," although “chromed" would be a more accurate definition. One mineral process of making leather, namely, that involving the use of alum, or alumina sulphate, and salt, is technically described as "tawing," The conversion of skins into leather by the use of oxidised oil is known as “chamoising," imitation chamois leather being made by that process.” Dehairing Boot Leather: This method is rarely used in England, but a few American tanners seem to prefer it for certain classes of hides. In the American process, the hides are first soaked, and then cut in half down the back, forming what are known as sides. Dry hides are subjected to the usual mechanical operations in the faller stocks, in which they are kneaded by two large hammers (Fig. 14), or they are drummed in the tumbler (Fig. 13). After the sides are thoroughly softened and drained, they are transferred to the sweat pit, which is, preferably, a dark underground chamber. The stock requires very careful attention as the process is risky. The temperature should never exceed 75° F., otherwise the hides may be irretrievably ruined. The process may take from one to four days, according to the varying conditions of the hides and of the weather. The loss of nitrogenous matter gives rise to the development of a strong odour of ammonia, which is sometimes even too pungent for the workmen. When the hair is judged to be sufficiently loose, the sides are washed in cold water and put in the stocks again for about ten minutes, when all the hair will be removed; or the hair may be scraped off in the unhairing machine. This method is not useful for sole leather, as it causes too great a loss of gelatine, but it saves time in the production of sides intended for boot upper leather, which is usually sold by measurement (superficial area)” Bating and Puering: ““Hides to be dressed for such purposes as bags, portmanteaus, cases, harness, belting, and stout uppers are usually steeped in an infusion of hen or pigeon dung. A vat is filled with tepid water, a quantity of the dung, usually about half a pailful, is added and well stirred in the water before putting the hides in. The acid fermentation evolved neutralises the lime, while bacteria multiply and rapidly reduce the rubbery limed hide to a soft, flaccid condition.” The process of treating hides with excrement is known technically as "bating.” “Calf skins, which are curried or dressed after tanning, should be reduced to a more supple condition than hides intended for harness, belting, and military leathers. A more active dung is, therefore, used for skins of all kinds which have to be rendered supple. Dog manure is generally used, that from the hunting kennels being preferred. Imported dry dung has to be used by some firms, as the supply of fresh dung is insufficient. The demand for the latter is very keen, as it is more effective than the dry product. Goat skins dressed for the famous shoe leather known as glazed or glacé kid, and kid skins for glove leather, need a larger proportion of "puer.” “Fortunately, from the hygienic point of view, the use of natural "bates" and "puers," although still extensive, is likely to be superseded everywhere by artificial products. So far there are nearly 2,000 tanneries throughout the world where the artificial bating materials are preferred, German and American tanners being the principal users.”

Fast, Good, Free in 1915: Despite the well-known axiom that the vegetable tannage (but not the mineral) must proceed slowly and gradually in the early stages of the process if the hides are to be properly tanned, the modern tendency is to speed up the tanning, with the result that, in some cases, the so-called sole leather is really not fit for the purpose for which it is intended. The root of the evil is the desperate attempt made by many boot manufacturers to produce lower-priced boots than those of their competitors.” The Evils of Chrome in 1915: “By far the most important of the mineral tannages is the chrome process, the merits and demerits of which have not only been freely discussed in the trade, but also in the lay press. Fanciful theories of the poisonous character of this kind of leather have been published from time to time in the daily press. Such absurd statements as that prussic acid and mercury are used in the manufacture of chrome leather hardly need refuting, as, even if they could convert skins into leather, the cost would prohibit their use.” Black Leather in 1915: “There are two methods of dyeing blacks in the leather trade: (1) the logwood-ammonia, and (2) the aniline black. The former is the cheaper of the two and quite satisfactory, although many dyers seem to prefer the aniline process. The latter certainly gives a deeper black, but it is not at all necessary to make the flesh side of box calf black, and many buyers prefer the back blue, although, of course, the grain side of the leather must be finished a jet black. The colouring matter of logwood is haematoxylin, which is converted into haematin by oxidation; hence, the extract is often referred to as haematin crystals. One lb. of crystals, to which is added just enough ammonia to change the brown colour to violet blue, suffices for each 100 lb. of leather dyed. The colouring matter is absorbed by the time the drum has been running half an hour, leaving clear water behind.” Historical Perspective of Future Developments in Tanning: “I tell you what, Nat, some day science has got to find a way to get rid of certain obstacles that stand in the path of making leather,” declared Peter. “Somebody must invent an unhairing device to do away with the taking off of the white hair by hand. You’d better try your brain at the puzzle. Another chance for you to make yourself famous is to think out a machine for softening fine leather that will take the place of knee-staking. Still another opportunity to write your name in golden letters across the tanneries of the world is to perfect a patent leather varnish that will dry indoors. Now there are three roads to fortune open to you, old man. You’d better select one.”

EQed with JDS labs element III or Questyle M15 👍

Was stuck in traffic and now I’m prepared to take the Taco Bell/Horween analogy too far. Picture a basic soft taco with beef, there’s a flour tortilla, beef, lettuce, and cheese. That’s like a latigo steerhide, combo tanned, good resistance to heat and stretchy. You want a bunch of spice? Diablo sauce, you will get spice but it might mask some flavors. That’s black latigo. No sauce packet? Natural latigo, a finished tasty product, no spice. Don’t want any toppings, just a basic taco to build on, tortillas and beef? That’s crust latigo. Need a little more finishing? Soft taco supreme, add that tomato and sour cream. That’s cypress, let’s add a nice wax coating. What’s that, you’ve gone gluten free? Get a crunchy taco. That’s Essex, more “natural,” a little bit more delicate to handle. Crunchy taco supreme? Dublin. You want something that’s a classic Taco Bell product, veg tanned, in a weird shape, with a premium meat, named after something originally made in Europe? Mexican pizza with steak aka shell cordovan. Need that with some chrome and a little more grain? Workshoe butt aka the steak Crunchwrap Supreme. Need another classic that’s stuffed with more stuff just to make it awesome? Cheesy Gordita crunch, aka chromexcel. What’s that you want something that’s all chrome and going to be indestructible? Get a chalupa, aka chromepak. Need to mix things up and get something that’s a little newer, has some different ingredients, and a different feel? Breakfast burrito - predator. We want to see the inner workings a little better? Loaded nachos - snuff suede. Need more stuff on your nachos? Nachos BellGrande - chamois. Need all the properties of a cheesy Gordita crunch but you gotta keep your face clean? Eat it from the top, that’s marine fieldshoe, keep that sand from building up in your shoe. Does this make any sense anymore? Absolutely not, and now I need to go get some Taco Bell.

8) can you describe wet stuffing in a little more detail? What are the pros and cons? What are products that are wet stuffed and how are these different than a fat liquored or hot stuffed product?

ruclips.net/video/GeZg9E2FokU/видео.html at 16:33 in episode 34, the live q&a episode, in case that link doesn’t work

Essex is not the same as CXL. The Essex is veg tanned and will display the characteristics of such. CXL is hotstuffed and much softer in comparision. Hope that helps because it's not really about how the shoemaker splits the hides

@@Darkness8710my Essex boots are floppy, thin and soft, much softer than my half stiff waxy CXL. I think Nick mentioned that Essex is softer than your typical veg tanned.