Well I've been a leather maker (tanner) all my life and I thought your video on the subject was excellent. Very clear and knowledgable. Although the Suede guys might feel a tad miffed because they didn't get much of a mention. Like you say it's horses for courses with both Veg and Chrome leather. Chrome when you want softness, stretch and a particular colour etc and Veg when you want a resilience, toughness like in sole leather, saddles and in bags where it gives great stand and form. Plus the smell we associate with leather comes from Veg tanned leathers. Older people like myself will remember taking your shoes for re-soling and that wonderful smell that would hit you when you walked in the door. Veg leather too has its beauty, I always compare it to beautiful wooden made articles. Mainly because it's natural beauty is enhanced with dyes and antiques and rarely covered with pigments. It darkens on age and if looked after can become even more beautiful as it develops it's own character.
Summary: Chrome tanned leather and vegetable tanned leather are two common methods of tanning animal hides to turn them into durable, long-lasting leather products. Chrome tanning is a faster process that involves the use of chromium salts to tan the hide. This method is generally less expensive and produces a softer and more supple leather. The resulting leather is often more water-resistant and can be dyed to a wider range of colors. Vegetable tanning, on the other hand, uses natural tannins found in tree bark and other plant materials to tan the hide. This process takes longer, but the resulting leather is typically firmer and more durable than chrome tanned leather. It also tends to be more environmentally friendly, as it uses natural materials instead of chemicals. Vegetable tanned leather can also develop a rich patina over time with use, making it a popular choice for high-end leather goods. Ultimately, the choice between chrome tanned leather and vegetable tanned leather depends on the intended use of the leather product, as well as personal preferences for appearance, texture, and environmental impact.
I'm glad I watched this video because I was beginning think chrome tan was just garbage leather and am happy to hear that its just the stuff i bought and not all chrome leather.
Very informative. I'm not a high fashion type of man, I do have some nice vintage clothes that I use for those occasions. But I still love to see the history and in depth explanations of men's fashion from past to present. I thoroughly enjoy everything about this channel.
Wow brought back memories as I worked for a chrome tannery while in college. Could name most of the equipment show. Vats, wooden drums and later they began using cement mixers, as shown in the video. I never worked with vats. I worked predominantly with cattle and pig hides. Great video.
This is still done the old-school way by Pergamena, based in New Jersey. I know them through bookbinding, but I believe that they also provide supplies for fashion ateliers.
Veg tan leather can also be tooled, carved, dyed and shaped in endless ways. Both have their uses and neither one is the Best for every situation. For customs jobs veg tan is often the way to go as it can be modified in so many ways. The higher price of veg tan goods is most likely because the craftsperson has spent lots of time actually doing ohter things than just cutting and sowing the piece together. The cost of leather material becomes at one point almost irrelevant, of course it again depends on the item being created.
One big difference between veg and chrome is that veg is a lot more environmentally friendly! Chrome has a lot of pretty nasty chemicals used in the process and it's not very great in the long run
Hey "Professor Leather", this is the best video I ever watched! How often did I try to find an explanation for the difference between sorts of leather ...... and failed each time! Thank you so much for this video with tons of information, that I surely have to watch several times to understand all the history, the relationships, the differences of quality and the purposes of each kind of leather! Now ‐ THANK YOU AGAIN ‐ I know where I can find all answers!
I like rose anvil and his favorit Chrome tan leather from the US. Takes a long time aswell. The Horween CHROMEXCEL leather is an awesome leather if you want I good choice to veg tan in some cases
I believe that he had to say… "don't burn your finished leather goods"… because there are people (you know who you are) that would actually go & burn their stuff & cry about a guy telling them to burn their leather goods to figure out what tanning process was used to make their product. Silly people. Oh… and thank you for this presentation. It was full of very helpful information & you were very thorough. Great job!
What an excellent video, thank you! I had no idea that you could burn leather to find out if it was veg or chrome tanned, just like textiles! I’m learning how to wet mould veg tanned leather from the Santa Croce area right now. I’m near Florence. ❤
Great upload! BTW I had to think of an old friend of mine, the biologist Dr. V. Knappertsbusch, who, in the late 90ties, developed a stem of bacteria being able to digest/process chrome tanned leather into harmless environment-friendly compounds.
Great video! Very information dense, and done without skipping important points & without skipping details. I too visited Horween Leather 1-1/2 yrs ago, and I’ve had the chance to interview one of the owners of Ashland Leather co. One of his points was the same as one of yours... there’s no one “best” leather. Best for what application?
Horween leather is amazing. I started wearing my Cavalier Leather Doc Martens 7 days ago and they're already broken in. The leather will outlive the soles and then I can resole them one way or another. I can say. almost to a certainty, I'll be wearing these for the rest of my life! Costly, but worth every penny. You get what you pay for right?
An excellent video. Very detailed explanations on the differences between chrome and veg tan, plus thier uses and the processes. One of the best I have seen on this subject, great work.
Thank you for this interesting and informative video! I am not an expert but I think you might want to check the chemical used in the pre-tanning process. I don't think it's talc, as that's a very inert substance. To decrease pH it will be some form of acid that is used.
Why are Meermin leather shoes so stiff? Are they getting their leathers from similar tanneries as Carmina? Is there a finishing process in making the shoes that make them stiffer?
The lower level Meermin shoes are rather stiff. Not just the sole leather but also the uppers. I would assume that's how they have the leather tanned to their specs. The Linea Maestro line is much better, and not as stiff. They are still not soft shoes, but a huge improvement compared to the regular Meermin shoes.
please more of these types of videos with technical, in depth explanations into the quality of materials! On another note, could you do a video on John Lobb shoes?
Another great video with a detailed explanation. High quality leather is out of reach for allot of people. But, whole shopping consignment and thrifting I now know what I am looking for.
Bravo...Bravo... Very well explained. I believe you hit the nail on the head. Select the leather for your purpose or article. On the note of "genuine leather" avoid it. Many people talk about their genuine leather jacket or bag an I cringe. Leather prices rise and fall as supply and demand are needed. Many high-end handbags use very, very thin leather that usually veneered with suede. Again, well done.
What a beautiful and useful video. Thanks a lot. Have you ever visit León (amazing city, at Guanajuato state, in center México)? It has a centennial tradition on leather industry; there are hundreds of families dedicated for generations to tanning, leathercraft, leatherclothing, shoemaking; downtown you can visit malls, markets and stores dedicated to sell nothing but leather goods, one store aside the other. And the most amazing place, the one-block-sized market "La luz", which entirely sells leather for manufacturers. Once again, thanks a lot for this very usefull video and the channel itself.
I don't know who this guy is, but if I ever chose to enter the profession of leather crafting, fashion, and the marketing of it, he would be the guy I would want to educate me on it. Even with the droll humour!
Hey Raphael. I would greatly appreciate it if you made a video about androgynous styling. If you are for or against it, ways to wear androgynous clothes, etc. Thank you!
I am a beginner. I had a copper stamp made so I can brand my leather projects but the leather shrinks and distorts it badly. Can you please give me advice. Much appreciated Pamela Tasmania Australia
Could you wear a black tie dinner jacket with a dark colour such as burgundy instead of black at a black tie dress code or can that only be done at a black tie optional or creative?
Nearly choked on my coffee with the joke near the end. Beautifully timed joke. And great video. I love these in-depth looks at different fabrics. Thanks.
I tend to go with chrome tanned bovine in my "workman" attire (boots and coats) but prefer veg tanned horsehide for dress shoes and more dressy jackets like my Vincenzo horsehide A2 flight jacket, which don't need to be as wet resistant.... and veg tanned Cape/lambskin for the A1 I'm getting made by Thedi
Could you please tell whether chrome tanned leather can be dyed in our workshop like veg tanned leather. Is goat skin 2-3 oz good to.make wallets and also what should be the ideal thickness of leather forr belts? I am a beginer Regards Jo, india
Hi, thanks for your video. May be you know what type of leather is timberland Kendrick shoes. I don’t know what cream to use to care leather. Please, help me..
Well I've been a leather maker (tanner) all my life and I thought your video on the subject was excellent. Very clear and knowledgable. Although the Suede guys might feel a tad miffed because they didn't get much of a mention.
Like you say it's horses for courses with both Veg and Chrome leather. Chrome when you want softness, stretch and a particular colour etc and Veg when you want a resilience, toughness like in sole leather, saddles and in bags where it gives great stand and form. Plus the smell we associate with leather comes from Veg tanned leathers. Older people like myself will remember taking your shoes for re-soling and that wonderful smell that would hit you when you walked in the door.
Veg leather too has its beauty, I always compare it to beautiful wooden made articles. Mainly because it's natural beauty is enhanced with dyes and antiques and rarely covered with pigments. It darkens on age and if looked after can become even more beautiful as it develops it's own character.
Summary:
Chrome tanned leather and vegetable tanned leather are two common methods of tanning animal hides to turn them into durable, long-lasting leather products.
Chrome tanning is a faster process that involves the use of chromium salts to tan the hide. This method is generally less expensive and produces a softer and more supple leather. The resulting leather is often more water-resistant and can be dyed to a wider range of colors.
Vegetable tanning, on the other hand, uses natural tannins found in tree bark and other plant materials to tan the hide. This process takes longer, but the resulting leather is typically firmer and more durable than chrome tanned leather. It also tends to be more environmentally friendly, as it uses natural materials instead of chemicals. Vegetable tanned leather can also develop a rich patina over time with use, making it a popular choice for high-end leather goods.
Ultimately, the choice between chrome tanned leather and vegetable tanned leather depends on the intended use of the leather product, as well as personal preferences for appearance, texture, and environmental impact.
Sounds like an ai summary
Great information, in a very clear way, for someone like me starting leather crafting and wondering the why, how, what... Thanks for sharing all this.
I'm glad I watched this video because I was beginning think chrome tan was just garbage leather and am happy to hear that its just the stuff i bought and not all chrome leather.
I'm continuously blown away by the quality of this channel. Thanks!
Me too. Something to aspire to
Incredible breakdown. I learned more about leather than probably the sum total of my leather knowledge I had previously
Very informative. I'm not a high fashion type of man, I do have some nice vintage clothes that I use for those occasions. But I still love to see the history and in depth explanations of men's fashion from past to present. I thoroughly enjoy everything about this channel.
Everybody HAS to watch the brief segment that starts at 19:21, when Raphael explains why he is wearing a leather coat.
😂
where's that video! :)
I saw the article just few hours ago. I got excited for the topic. The video delivered, for sure.
Wow brought back memories as I worked for a chrome tannery while in college. Could name most of the equipment show. Vats, wooden drums and later they began using cement mixers, as shown in the video. I never worked with vats. I worked predominantly with cattle and pig hides. Great video.
This is still done the old-school way by Pergamena, based in New Jersey. I know them through bookbinding, but I believe that they also provide supplies for fashion ateliers.
I think this is the most informative video I ever seen in my life. epic.
Man ain't into the other content of the site as much as shoemakers before. But I love this one!
I really needed to hear this information about leather because I am a new leather crafter.
That's a great bunch of information all at once. And the narration, presentation made it a masterpiece. Thank you.
A letter is a message written on paper and usually mailed.
Veg tan leather can also be tooled, carved, dyed and shaped in endless ways. Both have their uses and neither one is the Best for every situation. For customs jobs veg tan is often the way to go as it can be modified in so many ways. The higher price of veg tan goods is most likely because the craftsperson has spent lots of time actually doing ohter things than just cutting and sowing the piece together. The cost of leather material becomes at one point almost irrelevant, of course it again depends on the item being created.
Thank you for the advice.
One big difference between veg and chrome is that veg is a lot more environmentally friendly!
Chrome has a lot of pretty nasty chemicals used in the process and it's not very great in the long run
14:02, the best part of the video. Bravo!
Hey "Professor Leather", this is the best video I ever watched! How often did I try to find an explanation for the difference between sorts of leather ...... and failed each time! Thank you so much for this video with tons of information, that I surely have to watch several times to understand all the history, the relationships, the differences of quality and the purposes of each kind of leather! Now ‐ THANK YOU AGAIN ‐ I know where I can find all answers!
U
I was a mens shoe buyer and had the opportunity to visit the Alden factory a few times with Floyd our Alden rep. Amazing!
This is amazing! It answers so many questions I had in regards to how leather is processed!
Rafael is amazing I love the accent
Exactly, he is our Professor Classic Style. i also followed him for quiet few years and still keep learning from him.
sus
The best video to get some basic knowledge about leathers and it's processes.
Thank you for this video
Woow, I really did not expect video about that, but it is really useful and interesting. Great job.
I like rose anvil and his favorit Chrome tan leather from the US. Takes a long time aswell. The Horween CHROMEXCEL leather is an awesome leather if you want I good choice to veg tan in some cases
I believe that he had to say… "don't burn your finished leather goods"… because there are people (you know who you are) that would actually go & burn their stuff & cry about a guy telling them to burn their leather goods to figure out what tanning process was used to make their product.
Silly people.
Oh… and thank you for this presentation.
It was full of very helpful information & you were very thorough. Great job!
What an excellent video, thank you! I had no idea that you could burn leather to find out if it was veg or chrome tanned, just like textiles! I’m learning how to wet mould veg tanned leather from the Santa Croce area right now. I’m near Florence. ❤
Great upload! BTW I had to think of an old friend of mine, the biologist Dr. V. Knappertsbusch, who, in the late 90ties, developed a stem of bacteria being able to digest/process chrome tanned leather into harmless environment-friendly compounds.
Sounds great. Do you have a link with more information?
Outstanding video. Men need to understand the differences and the uses that various leather production provide.
Thank you. This was so helpful
Quality content! I'm currently writting my dissertation on Leather and found this video a great source of research
Let me know if u had published ur dissertation, I would like to read it
Me too
I thought Full Grain is the ultimate with top grain being the second tier quality as it is the top layer of the full grain
Great video! Very information dense, and done without skipping important points & without skipping details. I too visited Horween Leather 1-1/2 yrs ago, and I’ve had the chance to interview one of the owners of Ashland Leather co. One of his points was the same as one of yours... there’s no one “best” leather. Best for what application?
Horween leather is amazing. I started wearing my Cavalier Leather Doc Martens 7 days ago and they're already broken in. The leather will outlive the soles and then I can resole them one way or another. I can say. almost to a certainty, I'll be wearing these for the rest of my life! Costly, but worth every penny. You get what you pay for right?
An excellent video. Very detailed explanations on the differences between chrome and veg tan, plus thier uses and the processes. One of the best I have seen on this subject, great work.
Somehow, this is longer than the Rose Anvil video on a very similar topic. Glad to have more info on the topic, at any rate.
What video do you refer to specifically?
Thank you for this interesting and informative video! I am not an expert but I think you might want to check the chemical used in the pre-tanning process. I don't think it's talc, as that's a very inert substance. To decrease pH it will be some form of acid that is used.
Why are Meermin leather shoes so stiff? Are they getting their leathers from similar tanneries as Carmina? Is there a finishing process in making the shoes that make them stiffer?
The lower level Meermin shoes are rather stiff. Not just the sole leather but also the uppers. I would assume that's how they have the leather tanned to their specs. The Linea Maestro line is much better, and not as stiff. They are still not soft shoes, but a huge improvement compared to the regular Meermin shoes.
please more of these types of videos with technical, in depth explanations into the quality of materials! On another note, could you do a video on John Lobb shoes?
Another great video with a detailed explanation. High quality leather is out of reach for allot of people. But, whole shopping consignment and thrifting I now know what I am looking for.
Excellent video! It was very informative and I look forward to the next installment.
Well Explained clearly and liked the way it is really presented
Thanks for the inspiration
Look forward for more such information
What can we use to condition chrome tanned leather patches? Thanks for the videos!
Bravo...Bravo... Very well explained. I believe you hit the nail on the head. Select the leather for your purpose or article.
On the note of "genuine leather" avoid it. Many people talk about their genuine leather jacket or bag an I cringe. Leather prices rise and fall as supply and demand are needed.
Many high-end handbags use very, very thin leather that usually veneered with suede.
Again, well done.
usually i watch this guys videos to cringe and laugh but this is actually a really good video
I appreciate the detail you give in this video. Thank you
Has the video about the type of leather (Top, Full, Corrected, etc.) already been published? I really need it, I'm so confused about this topic!
That dominatrix and assless chaps joke was particularly funny coming from you out of all people hahahahahah
Yep, had to check the posting date to be sure it wasn't on April 1st of some past year.
Nice video. So the big question now: Is the leather jacket your wearing vegetable tanned? Who's it made by and where from?
The dominatrix joke😂😂😂
La vice Englaise
That is a lovely, lovely jacket
Belstaff makes some great leather jackets 🥳
you are lovely!
What a beautiful and useful video. Thanks a lot. Have you ever visit León (amazing city, at Guanajuato state, in center México)? It has a centennial tradition on leather industry; there are hundreds of families dedicated for generations to tanning, leathercraft, leatherclothing, shoemaking; downtown you can visit malls, markets and stores dedicated to sell nothing but leather goods, one store aside the other. And the most amazing place, the one-block-sized market "La luz", which entirely sells leather for manufacturers.
Once again, thanks a lot for this very usefull video and the channel itself.
A wealth of knowledge is what you are.🙏
Up next on News 5: Arsonist at the shoe store claims he was just trying to verify if the shoes were high quality leather.
Video on leather care in general....? Or different care for wallets vs belts vs shoes, etc....? Love the channel!
I don't know who this guy is, but if I ever chose to enter the profession of leather crafting, fashion, and the marketing of it, he would be the guy I would want to educate me on it. Even with the droll humour!
Your videos are very informative! Can you make one on selvedge denim and its history?
Watch Carl Murawski’s video on selvedge denim, great channel all around anyway.
working on a economics project and stumbled across this. thank you for the info
very interesting video ty i learned alot about the leather i use
Perfect video and the best explanation I ever seen 👏🏻
OK this looks great with the new sign
Hey Raphael. I would greatly appreciate it if you made a video about androgynous styling. If you are for or against it, ways to wear androgynous clothes, etc. Thank you!
Very detail explanation & educational video ... Thanks !
I'll be anxiously waiting for Raphael's chaps guide from now on.
I am a beginner. I had a copper stamp made so I can brand my leather projects but the leather shrinks and distorts it badly. Can you please give me advice. Much appreciated Pamela Tasmania Australia
I thoroughly enjoyed this. I do enjoy leather and its great quality. Once again you have educated me. I thank you.
Many feel that Horween is one of the top tier premium tanneries in the world, not only for veg tanned and chrome tanned but shell cordovan!
I've got English made Doc Martens with Horween and I'm in love! There's a strong likelihood that I'll never buy another pair of boots.
Which leather should I use for debossing patterns on?
I just come to your videos to see the cool outfits you put on.
Recently discovered your channel
Great work my friend!
Many leather products have a tag in the shape of a hyde make of the same leather as the product, you can burn the leather tag to tell the difference
Always nice to learn more about different tanning of leather. Thank you for the information in this video.
Could you wear a black tie dinner jacket with a dark colour such as burgundy instead of black at a black tie dress code or can that only be done at a black tie optional or creative?
I was looking for a leatherworking video and somehow ended up here lol
me too
Excellent video and very educational.
Excellent video! I’m just getting in to leatherwork and want to know all I can about the tanning process. Thank you so much for the information!
This was very informative. I'm a leather aficionado and make my own belts and wallets.
Where did you get you weekender bag?
Third to be here Raphael! Great video! This is soooo useful since I do a lot of shoes review!
Excellent information, also liked the funny parts, they are a nice addition!
Thanks a lot just what I was looking for.
Nearly choked on my coffee with the joke near the end. Beautifully timed joke. And great video. I love these in-depth looks at different fabrics. Thanks.
Is exotic leather also tanned the same ways?
Do you have reviews on buffalo skin deer skin impala skin for leather shoes.
It would be great to see a episode on furniture and your recommendations; I love that couch that you’re drinking on!
I tend to go with chrome tanned bovine in my "workman" attire (boots and coats) but prefer veg tanned horsehide for dress shoes and more dressy jackets like my Vincenzo horsehide A2 flight jacket, which don't need to be as wet resistant.... and veg tanned Cape/lambskin for the A1 I'm getting made by Thedi
I'm only a minute in and this is already a great video, thank you so much!
Good plz update latest technology on beamhouse and retanning n fatliq part
Love your channel, i think this kind of video is very interesting, you learn about the products you like!
Keep going the best gentlemen channel
I never knew I needed Raphael in a leather jacket
Excellent video as always 👏👏👏
Great information ❤ Thanku for giving us a very informative video
I prefer vegetable-tanned leather for ethical reasons; chromed-tanned leather is more dangerous for the workers manufacturing the garment.
Could you please tell whether chrome tanned leather can be dyed in our workshop like veg tanned leather.
Is goat skin 2-3 oz good to.make wallets and also what should be the ideal thickness of leather forr belts?
I am a beginer
Regards
Jo, india
Hi, thanks for your video. May be you know what type of leather is timberland Kendrick shoes. I don’t know what cream to use to care leather. Please, help me..
Great informative video. Thanks I learnt something.
Thank you for this awesome video
Can vegtanned leather fail water absorption test?
What brand of leather jacket is your tan jacket?
Great… so detailed… thanks for sharing…
11:07 I keep playing this back and try to pronounce it with him. Its a great video, thank you!