Very detailed explanation! I’m sure there are many beginners who are extremely thankful for this style of video. Only thing I would note is that the keyhole gcode file is not project specific, so I would have named it simply “keyhole” and kept that one file ready to go for any time you ever need a keyhole. Only program it once, then every other time you do it, the whole process is much faster.
Like to add something to this video about adding a keyhole slot. Since the project is already mounted back side up to cut the keyhole slot. You can make another cut file to add a signature or label to the project. After you make the keyhole vector make a text area about an inch below the slot. It would be something like these four lines “CNC ,, WOODWORKING ,, By ,, Your Name”. Could also enter a year if desired. I used a script font “Brush Script Std” (search internet to find), align - center, text Hight - 0.25, I tilted the text area about 15 - 20 degrees, left side down, to add interest. For the cut file I used a 1/8 shank 30-degree engraving v-bit, IDC Item SKU: LV-30. Depth of cut about 0.15. Test on scrap to verify it is the way you like it. Even if you do not use the keyhole slot file, you have this to sign your work in the future.
Muscle chuck - amazing! Will this eliminate the need to "clean" during every bit change? I'm going to wait for its release and will pounce on ordering it and a couple other things I've been wanting... "saving up" a bigger order to offset the shipping up north! Keep up the great work!
I think a vertical keyhole would have been better since it would automatically balance the workpiece vertically . Horizontal ones mwy be benefitial if you have two keyholes.
It’s horizontal so you can slide the sign back and forth to find the balance point. The balance point isn’t always dead center since wood can be denser and heavier on one side or the other.
I like putting horizontal keyhole slots on my general house hold signs. I used the vertical keyhole slot for my heavier sports signs so that is is harder for kids to knock off of the wall. My CNC LLC is starting to get into making product videos. What video editor are you using to make these professional looking videos? (I'm afraid that you are going to say that you have a guy/gal that does the video work)
@@IDCWoodcraft but I confused on how you got the router to its starting point.. I use Carbide Create but plan on going to Vetric Pro. I normally put the entire size of my sign and I would import and move that design to the area I wanted it on the back (center of the 1-1/2" slot) centered on my Board
Im a little confused on how you set up the location of where to start . My piece of wood is always set in left bottoms corner. So im not sure when you said you just use a 4x4 material setup. How does it know where on the your sign that was 24x 14 piece. How did you set it up to start at the 11.5 mark? Maybe a dumb question
Ald, sorry brother this one is a little tricky to walk you through over comments. I recommend joining Kate and I for our weekly live session we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help walk you through it then!
Does the CA glue method work for cutting things out completely also? I have been clamping everything down for the longest time and sometime it takes more time to clamp things down then it does to cut them out. Interested in trying it out but worry about messing a piece up.
What's the advantage to cutting the keyhole horizontally? I make lots of signs and plaques and always cut them vertically. Seems like it would be easier for it to hang crooked if it was horizontal. Also, Aspire has a gadget for cutting keyholes if you ever need it.
If they're vertical, and you're off, you will have a crooked project. Cutting horizontal allows you to slide it left and right to adjust level much like the toothed cleat that comes on most frames and plaques.
Don't understand why you would use the tape CA method on a project like this. It's 2 clamps, one on each side and it won't go anywhere. Or like my cnc I have a large L in one corner and would place it there, then maybe clamp using a 6 shape side pressure clamp. Now you're using 2 meters of tape, glue and accelerator, imo that's a waste of material. I only use tape if I need to be on every side with no room for clamps and side pressure clamping isn't a option either.
Get Your Keyhole Bit Here → link.idcwoodcraft.com/ahowfi
Very detailed explanation! I’m sure there are many beginners who are extremely thankful for this style of video.
Only thing I would note is that the keyhole gcode file is not project specific, so I would have named it simply “keyhole” and kept that one file ready to go for any time you ever need a keyhole. Only program it once, then every other time you do it, the whole process is much faster.
KenBouchard, that is a very good point brother! Best to make the file once and use it forever.
Use the original video to setup my 2 key hole bits and run some keyholes for a customer. Super easy. Thanks
AndrewR, you are so welcome brother!
Like to add something to this video about adding a keyhole slot. Since the project is already mounted back side up to cut the keyhole slot. You can make another cut file to add a signature or label to the project. After you make the keyhole vector make a text area about an inch below the slot. It would be something like these four lines “CNC ,, WOODWORKING ,, By ,, Your Name”. Could also enter a year if desired. I used a script font “Brush Script Std” (search internet to find), align - center, text Hight - 0.25, I tilted the text area about 15 - 20 degrees, left side down, to add interest. For the cut file I used a 1/8 shank 30-degree engraving v-bit, IDC Item SKU: LV-30. Depth of cut about 0.15. Test on scrap to verify it is the way you like it.
Even if you do not use the keyhole slot file, you have this to sign your work in the future.
WanderingStar-fq4cn, good idea brother! It sounds like you have yourself a good workflow on this one. Happy CNCing.
Thanks Garrett!
davidhittenberger1651, You're welcome! Happy to help.
thanks for instructions
wcmeyer6846, You're very welcome! I'm glad you found the instructions helpful.
Hi Garrett, for the overly cautious among us (me), I would also double check the Number of Passes in Toolpath Setup
user-wh9hq9zf8i, that is a very good point brother! Doesnt hurt to double check those settings.
Muscle chuck - amazing! Will this eliminate the need to "clean" during every bit change?
I'm going to wait for its release and will pounce on ordering it and a couple other things I've been wanting... "saving up" a bigger order to offset the shipping up north!
Keep up the great work!
Almost. I just use a qtip now
Just received mine, will be using it soon.
nwnimbleman3576, right on brother! I am excited for you to get started.
I think a vertical keyhole would have been better since it would automatically balance the workpiece vertically . Horizontal ones mwy be benefitial if you have two keyholes.
It’s horizontal so you can slide the sign back and forth to find the balance point. The balance point isn’t always dead center since wood can be denser and heavier on one side or the other.
MedhiShatti, very good points brother!
I love this, but I think maybe using a handheld plunge router with a guide may be faster 😉👍
TerrapinCreations, good call brother! Whatever works best for your workflow.
I like putting horizontal keyhole slots on my general house hold signs. I used the vertical keyhole slot for my heavier sports signs so that is is harder for kids to knock off of the wall.
My CNC LLC is starting to get into making product videos. What video editor are you using to make these professional looking videos? (I'm afraid that you are going to say that you have a guy/gal that does the video work)
Dioncoller, take a look at Davinci Resolve brother! It is a great software package.
@@IDCWoodcraft Davinci Resolve looks very promising! I will pass off the info to my marketing person. Thank you!
Hey @IDC Woodcraft how are you my friend.can i ask a queston when is your 1/4 hog roughing end mill bits going to be in stock again?
DavidTerBlanch, the beast is in stock brother! Here is a link: idcwoodcraft.com/products/the-beast-1-4-roughing-endmill-bit-for-cnc-routers-1-4-shank?
@@IDCWoodcraft thanks man! your the best.We all love you.
nice video, can i do this with the easel software
Thank you! Yes, you absolutely can do with with Easel my friend.
Bummer! Muscle Chuck is out of stock already.😯
No. Haven't released yet
@@IDCWoodcraft Great! I clicked on the link, and it came up as sold out. I'll keep an eye out for the release.
How did you select the starting point for the tool path to match your stock ?
The starting point is set at the start of the line I drew by default
@@IDCWoodcraft but I confused on how you got the router to its starting point.. I use Carbide Create but plan on going to Vetric Pro. I normally put the entire size of my sign and I would import and move that design to the area I wanted it on the back (center of the 1-1/2" slot) centered on my Board
Im a little confused on how you set up the location of where to start . My piece of wood is always set in left bottoms corner. So im not sure when you said you just use a 4x4 material setup. How does it know where on the your sign that was 24x 14 piece. How did you set it up to start at the 11.5 mark? Maybe a dumb question
Ald, sorry brother this one is a little tricky to walk you through over comments. I recommend joining Kate and I for our weekly live session we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help walk you through it then!
Does the CA glue method work for cutting things out completely also? I have been clamping everything down for the longest time and sometime it takes more time to clamp things down then it does to cut them out. Interested in trying it out but worry about messing a piece up.
Halokill9, it sure does brother! I'd recommend giving it a shot on some scrap wood and seeing what you think!
What's the advantage to cutting the keyhole horizontally? I make lots of signs and plaques and always cut them vertically. Seems like it would be easier for it to hang crooked if it was horizontal. Also, Aspire has a gadget for cutting keyholes if you ever need it.
If they're vertical, and you're off, you will have a crooked project. Cutting horizontal allows you to slide it left and right to adjust level much like the toothed cleat that comes on most frames and plaques.
Hi Buck. We can do them either way. I personally like side to side. Unfortunately I forgot to mention vertical options the video.
Hi Sam. it's a matter of preference I suppose. I like horizontal, he like vertical. But I should have mentioned it in the video at least
I've also seen some done horizontally but with a half moon shape that looked like it would stay centered better.
Don't understand why you would use the tape CA method on a project like this.
It's 2 clamps, one on each side and it won't go anywhere.
Or like my cnc I have a large L in one corner and would place it there, then maybe clamp using a 6 shape side pressure clamp.
Now you're using 2 meters of tape, glue and accelerator, imo that's a waste of material.
I only use tape if I need to be on every side with no room for clamps and side pressure clamping isn't a option either.
JasperTielen, I couldn't agree more brother! You really have some good points.